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Forum
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RE: Hot Water Drain mod
Hi,
I prefer removing the nylon plug. I found out that quite a bit of water stays inside the bottom of the tank, so I use a plastic tube and siphon out as much as I can--particularly for winter storage. I don't want any water freezing in the bottom of the (expensive) heater tank.
My new TT has an Atwood heater. While on vacation, I read the manual for it. They claim there is almost two gallon of water that sits in the bottom but also claim it won't hurt anything for it to freeze over the winter. But they also said it will accumulate sediments. They recommend getting it all out every once in a while. Their recommended method? Take the plug out, close up everything else, and use a blowout plug. They said most of the water will be blown out the drain hole (make sure you have not already bypassed the water heater or this won't work).
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 01:29pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: LEVEL?
Man, you guys really make this a chore don't you?? :?
I'm glad I don't have to go thru all of that to get the dang thing level... ;)
This is just what works for me and been doing it this way for 10 years with the same TT..
I've got the original round bubble level they gave me as part of the 'starter kit' when I bought the TT 10 years ago..
Looks similar to this
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/CTQ4bRXc9UTclpNN5ke5Pyid7ODDCIQwam3jSHicZuzU3ggNBRG2sy3mRUd60sfUM9cyDDn2LsgEFPoOz7jhbudAx04yn5thno9iZTT29bK80VH4li6Ne4AXWdBbINixiK4OTPuUXJ97xS8I5uPrCLtr2cQdocW6tiiSOr6qqf_-N16Licp6ZMIsxl-VL2cosq7tTJnB0m_lEL9gVwt3q090FbQN2dhp-Y07pjoVBw
I just place this on the tongue and it tells me side to side and front to back in one easy location. If it's more than a full bubble off, I know I need 1 set of boards under the low side tires. Then I unhitch and set the front to back. Set the corner jacks and call it good..
Works for me.. :)
Mitch
I wish my T level would have worked there . . . it would have been much more convenient. But the coupler was made in China and I don't think they considered the possibility someone would want to do that. I'm willing to bet there aren't a lot of RVers in China with experience in this area.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 01:24pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Propane Extension
They are high pressure. Get the Marshall extend-a-flow kit that supports multiple appliances.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 01:18pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: looking at downsizing. so many choices. help!
I can tell you I downsized from 32' to 29' 3" and it made a huge difference. But . . . I downsized from a fiver to a TT, so that is apples to oranges.
4 to 6 feet means the distance from the ball to the front axle will be reduced by probably 2 to 3 feet. You will see some improvement, but I would not expect it to be radical on something that is still over 25 feet in length.
Going to a fiver is going to make it harder to back. Also, a fiver in that length category will add about 3000 pounds to the dry weight. You will be out of the half ton towable category and need at least a 3/4 ton truck, no matter what the trailer manufacturer or dealer tries to tell you. With your truck, you are limited to a low profile 24' fiver at most.
I recently bought a Skyline Koala. They don't seem to be concentrating on the mega trailers in that line as much as trying to cover the 20 to 26 foot market (most manufacturers these days don't want to sell anything shorter than 34 feet). But I think your seating options will be limited to the sofa and dinette. My Koala 26SS meets your top three requirements . . . it has two rockers in the back. The dry weight of it is actually more like 5300 pounds, not the just shy of 5000 pounds indicated in their brochure. This comes from the placard they are legally required to affix to it with the actual measured dry weight of that actual unit.
The Koala's are lighter because they are using a composite called Azdel in the walls and are using the Schwintek in wall slideout mechanism. The jury is still out on the latter in my book. We will see if the dealer has straightened out the problems I have with mine.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 01:13pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Hot Water Drain mod
There are a number ways of doing this . . . some better than others. The biggest problem though is that ther is usually some propane lines that run close to the drain plug. Each model of heater is slightly different, and the installation of the same model of heater by different manufacturers can be different and affect the feasablility of doing the mod one particular way. Even in the same factory with the same heater, it could be different from one model of trailer/coach to another.
The approach to take is to start by taking some pictures from different angles with a tape measure jammed in there. Take the plug out, and as suggested, head to HD, Lowes, or your favorite plumbing supply store. Take your tape measure and your pictures and see what you can put together. You might be able to set up something really nice with a ball valve. Or you may discover you are stuck with a nylon plug.
When I get my TT back from the dealer, I will be going through this myself. Not looking forward to figuring it out. I do know I need to do it. When I got my fiver I dealt with the plug for a while before I got wise. Dealing with the plug on the TT is twice as hard as the one was on the fiver.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 01:01pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Propane Extension
You need to keep in mind there is high pressure propane and low pressure propane. You have to determine what the appliance requires in order to get the correct seupt. The Marshall brass extend a flow kit will tap high pressure propane between the tank and the trailer regulator for high pressure appliances. You can usually tell a high pressure appliance because the propane connection is designed for the 1 pound disposable bottles.
Some trailers have a quick connect coming out of the trailer propane pipes. That will be low pressure propane and will only work with low pressure appliances. There are a few on the market. Most portable grills are not. Fortunately, the industry is catching up and there are more and more portable grills that can be set up to be used either way.
Then there is the Weber Q100/Q120 that can be adapted to low pressure even though it was never intended to be adapted that way. Most of the portable grills on the market, however, are high pressue and cannot be adapted to low pressure.
Confusing? It should be . . . I almost got confused just trying to write it. It gets worse. Apparenlty the quick connectors on the trailers aren't all the same. I haven't figured out which hoses will work with mine yet.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 12:02pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: fuses
I do have all (I think) the manuals. Would those have something about fuses being associated with the items?
I think the 40s are actually to keep me from hooking up the battery wrong and getting screwed because of it. I found the manual for the fuse panel and it says "reverse battery protection fuses" on the wiring diagram. There are 3 separate breakers, one labeled main and the others have labels too but I don't remember what they are.
Yes the 40s are your reverse protection. All of your fuses will be of the "U" shape type. Most will be 15 amp, although there are occasionally other values. What I recommend is you buy a kit that has a variety of those fuses in it and a fuse puller. The puller is important because there is usually one or two fuses that are a PITA to pull. They can be pulled with needle nose pliers, but they conduct electricity and you can short things out. The puller is plastic and won't do that. Aside from the kit with the variety in it, get a package of the most common ones in your panel. This most likely will be the 15 amp, which are blue. They all have the amperage on the end (those are the numbers you see).
There is a possibility your tow vehicle may also use the same type of fuses.
BTW: blown fuses in a trailer are rare. You are more likely to blow a fuse in your tow vehicle.
There still may be hidden fuses in your camper. One of the places to look is in the back of the fridge. You have to remove the panel on the ouside to get to it. Typically, the same type of fuse as your panel. I have also found fuses on the back of stereo systems. These could be of any type. But you can always finish a trip without the stereo. Finishing a trip without heat, light, fridge, AC, or running water (water pump) can be miserable.
Then there are fuses for slideout motors and power tongue jacks. Depending on the setup, a blown fuse could be a real problem. Check to see how to operate these items manually. On my fiver, I had to make an adapter that I could use my stabilizer crank on to operate it manually. The electric landing gear came with a manual crank.
On my TT, the power tongue jack I added came with a manual crank. The slideout can't be manually cranked. You have to play with a computerized controller -- which is inaccessible once the slideout starts moving. Already had a problem with it and I hope the dealer moved it to where I suggested when they fixed the slide. They are still waiting on parts to fix the remaining warrantee issues.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 11:52am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: LEVEL?
I had to install the little levels on my new TT. So first I had to level it with my big level. I put the big level in about 10 different places in the trailer. It didn't always read the same. When the majority of the readings indicated level, and it felt level in my mind . . . I tried a dozen different places to install the little level so it read right (I have the T level). Turned out to be an odd spot on top of the bumper. Looks funny and I'm sure the screws would interfere with putting a slinky in the bumper. Good thing I have the Valterra carriers screwed to the side of the I-beam.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 11:02am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Hot weather camping
I went camping one summer with the family and no AC. That was one too many times. Saved my money for four years to buy a new trailer and new truck to pull it. The only time my family can all be off for a week together is in August. So we go. Run the AC. They go to the pool in the middle of the day. I go find a shady spot where I can fish. We enjoy the outdoors between the end of dinner and dark.
AC stays on the whole time.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 10:56am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: cable operated valve
One of the problems that can occur with the cable valves is incorrect installation. Valterra warns that the first 6" of cable on either end must be aligned straight with the valve or handle. This would require clamping it in that position under most circumstances. Easier said than done -- so skipped by a lot of manufacturers.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 10:49am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Michelin Ribs OK past 6 Yrs
I just bought a set of the ribs last fall. In doing my research Michenlin claims that they are good for 10 years. They say have tires inspected after 5 years and then every year after. Also they were the only brand that said the tires are good for 65 mph. All other brands claimed that their tires are good for max. speed of 55 mph. The Max speed claims was very interesting considering all the factors involved with people having soo many tire problems.
I have heard of max speeds of 75 for the Ribs and 65 for what normally comes OEM. Where did these 65/55 numbers come from? Did I miss something?
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 10:45am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Please wash your hands
As a mechanic for many years, I washed my hands before I used the restroom. ;)
My mechanic wears gloves to work on cars. I don't know what he would do if his pup had a holding tank. Should I ask him?
I agree there is such a thing as too clean. Along with gas pumps, another filthy item is money. From the studies of the contamination on it, some cocaine junkie used it to wipe.
There was a thread here back in January IIRC about people taking bleach to the threads on the spigot at the camp site. A number of us came to the conclusion we should be dead. LOL.
Lately, I avoid the antibacterial soap in favor of regular soap. About the only exception I make is after handling raw meat. I would include raw vegtables -- but I don't eat that "healthy". My family does though. So why am I in the best physical condition and get sick the least?
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 10:32am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Please wash your hands
Something to think about....in a restroom if you wash your hands, you have to work the paper towel dispenser or push the button on the blower if they are not automatic but then you have to get out of the restroom so do you grab the door handle or touch the door or wait till someone else goes thru and rush out behind them. So after touching all these surfaces what good did washing your hands do??? After dumping my tanks I think the best thing to have is keep a small bottle of hand sanitizer in your truck. Since it is mostly achohol it's a good germ killer.
Hand sanitizer does not kill everything, use it when you have nothing else. Nothing beats scrubbing your hands with soap and water. But you have a point about other things in a public restroom that may be ready to get onto your body. I am now at the point when I use a public bathroom 1 - open the door. 2 - wash my hands (I don't know what is on that door knob and I don't want it on me) 3 - use the toilet 4 - wash my hands 5 - leave the bathroom 6 - hand sanitizer.
Where I work, they had to install a handicap setup on the bathroom door because of someone who was in a wheel chair (sadly he is no longer of this earth, may he rest in peace). The button to open the door is right at hip level.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 08:56am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: BACKING SUGGESTIONS
Ya, backing up can be difficult at times. Nothing more satisfying than a speedy, accurate back-in though.
My street is very very busy at home, and that is where I park my TT. It is also uphill, and into a tight space. So usually I am holding up traffic a bit, while I adjust position. I rarely get it in one try, but I get to basically the right spot, and then pull all the way forward, and then ease into the correct position. Works every time within 2-3 mins. I only block one side of the road so it is usually no big deal. I had one idiot get mad at me for blocking the road once though.. lol like I had a choice!!
This sounds like something I would write. I get my wife to help me when I back into the driveway. I don't need her to give directions, I need her as a traffic cop. My joke to her when we are going out to do this is . . . "time to increase the traffic 10 fold".
There won't be a single car go by for 20 minutes. As soon as I throw that truck in reverse and get completely crosswise of the road for 40 to 60 seconds, I have two to three people waiting on either side of me.
Funny . . . when I go out of the driveway, there is never any traffic. Must be something about the backup lights that draws them like moths to a porch light at night.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 08:12am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Hunting
Not a good sam member, but the main purpose of me owning the 4 trailers I either have had or have (2 currently) is for hunting. Deer, squirrel, and turkey.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 07:00am |
Around the Campfire
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RE: Breaker Trips on Shore Power and not on Generator
I suspect low campground voltage is the culprit. Voltage drops because of other rigs running air, amperage increases, breakers break.
Your generator doesn't suffer from low voltage. You should have a voltmeter and always check CG power. This stuff is harmful, eventually, to your a/c. And it can melt your plug.
My thoughts exactly. I encounter the low voltage problem so much in private campgrounds that we won't camp in one on the weekend during the summer now. The state parks actually have adequate infrastructure and are OK.
If everyone would run their hot water heaters and refrigerators on propane instead of electric, this would probably not happen. Resistive heating elements have a tendency to draw down the voltage.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 06:54am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Shore power automatic switch to inverter.
X2 on the transfer switch. They were designed specifically for this purpose.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 06:39am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Travel trailer leak question ?
If the leak is stopped, I would just run a dehumidifier in there for a couple of months at full tilt. When you get the relative humidity down around 15 to 20 percent and the temperatures above 60, that moisture will naturally migrate into the inside of the camper. Remember . . . there is no moisture barrier in these things.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 06:24am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: BACKING SUGGESTIONS
After backing a 32' fiver, backing my 29' 3" TT is a piece of cake. What has helped me recently is teaching my daughter to drive. I have had to explain to her a lot about visuallizing how to get the rear tires of the truck to go where she needs them to go, especially when trying to back through the yard around the corner of her mom's truck without hitting the fence or tree on the opposite side. It is the same thing with the trailer. Where the tires on the trailer goes, the trailer goes. If they are going too far into the inside of the turn, that means you are not starting the follow of the trailer with the TV soon enough. If the wheels of the trailer are going too far towards the outside of the turn you need to make, you are following the turn too soon.
The thing I still have troubles with is backing the trailers straight back onto the ramps I have to put down at the end of my driveway to keep from hanging an axle in the air and having things centered correctly so that no tires (trailer or TV) drop off of the sides of the ramps. I have had to learn when backing straight, if I lean out the drivers door to see I will go crooked. If I use both mirrors and go slow I will go straight.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 06:11am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: tire and rim rating vs. GAWR
If this post actually posts, I PMed you because of issues posting replies for tire threads.
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ExRocketScientist
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05/23/12 05:57am |
Travel Trailers
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