I've ran the Ready Brake for years on our Jeeps too. It's great system. Now, I cannot answer your question accurately due to the fact that I'm not familiar with the bumpers on the Libertys. But, off the top of my head, it cannot be all that hard. It's a bumper. So, simply drill it, and install the cable housing end. Now, if it's a plastic cap, over a steel bumper underneath, then you'll have to accommodate the "space" in between the steel one and the plastic one. Not that hard. One more thing, I don't know how you set up your last R/B but, the instructions say to "clamp" that cable system to your brake arm in the Jeep, or whatever your toad is.
That sucks. I drilled the brake arm on the Jeep and, set the end of the cable up with a small clip and, when not being towed, the cable is wrapped up in a coil, under the mat. When it comes time for towing, reach under the mat and hook the cable to the brake arm and then proceed to the front for continued hook up. Way cleaner and, that cable is not being "Actuated" each and every time you press the brake while driving the toad on a daily basis.
And, the hideous way in which they want you to "adjust" the link cable to the actuator is pure bone head. I simply setup the link cable with a stainless steel turn buckle that is infinitely adjustable and seriously easier. Just and idea or two for you to think about. Good luck.
I thank you for your ideas and precautionary advice. And, I do understand the issues that could happen if, a short were to occur. I guess I'm just one of those guys that doesn't worry about things like that. When I do my work, I set it up so the possibility of a short, i.e. cut wire, chaffing, dangling, tight stretches or corners, little to no protection for exposed wires, etc. are all taken into account when I do the work. Nobodies perfect, and I certainly don't claim to be. I just have always taken maximum precautions in all my wiring jobs.
You, and I, and many others out there, have seen "shawdy" wiring jobs time and time again, and, even from "Companies" that were paid big dollars for their work. That system I described and, the answer to multiple issues, has worked flawlessly for over 7 years without so much as a hiccup.
But, I also certainly understand that newer and more modern vehicles have more complicated wiring systems, i.e. "Can-Buss" systems that absolutely cannot be wired using my method. And, if and when I encounter those, I will then move to a "Plug and Play" type alternative. Thanks again for your concern, it is duly legitimate.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I guess what I'm asking is, is there any issues with towing a full size truck like that one? I'm used to towing a Jeep Wrangler, (around 4200 lbs.+) and, most recently, an '11 Honda CRV, right at 3700 lbs. So, if we in fact purchase this truck for towing, it will be the heaviest vehicle we've towed. Weight is weight. If one is going to tow it, then just be prepared for the differences, if one is used to a lighter toad.
Ladies and Gents,
Since Ford F-150s are out (our primary choice), unless you spring for a '12 or newer, then the GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4 looks to be our next top choice. Now, as usual, the Dinghy Towing Guide lists the wrong weight for the trucks, I'm looking at possibly a new tow bar too since the Blue Ox Alladin is, I think, only rated for 5K lbs. And, the Dinghy guide says the truck weighs in at 4890. But, in searching for data and specs on the intended truck, sources put it at way closer to 5267 lbs.
Well, the coach has a 10,000 hitch and, based on actual curb weight I acquired during a weigh in at a local weigh station, I've got right at 11,000 lbs. left on the GCWR of the rig. So, the 5200 lb. truck shouldn't be too much strain for it.
It's '04 Itasca Horizon with the 330 CAT. Yeah, I know, it's on the small side for engines but, I'm not looking to win any NASCAR races while hooked up and towing. So, now, I'll have to check and see for sure it my Blue Ox Alladin Aluminum tow bar is not rated for that kind of weight. Anybody tow that particular truck out there? Any issues I should be aware of?
I've towed Jeeps for decades, and our latest is an '11 CRV so, towing in general is old hat for me. Thanks in advance.
Well Sir, you've been given lots of explanations of how things work and, how to change/alter things to accomplish your purpose. I'll give you one more.
First, I installed a Ready Brake when they first came out, somewhere around 10 + years ago. My Ready Brake was installed way different than the factory install instructions. My R/B is not connected to the toad brake pedal 24/7 like they would have you do. I set it up with clip mechanism that takes around, 3-4 seconds to hook up. That way, the R/B cable system is not being used and wearing on that cable housing etc. for no reason at all. Then, instead of that hideous cable adjustment system of looping the cables and using "cable clamps" for adjusting the tension for the link cable, I use a stainless steel turn buckle which works flawlessly.
Anyway, the primary reason (as has somewhat been explained) that your toads brakes ARE NOT CONSISTANTLY APPLIED WHILE YOU'RE DECENDING A HILL/GRADE is because of the spring loaded actuator of the R/B. That spring is a seriously strong spring. Now, it will not overcome the force of the toads weight as it surges forward while the brakes are applied in the coach. That's not its intent. However, what it is intended for is to overcome the "drift" or, "coasting" weight as you decend a grade.
In that, once the brakes are applied, the inertia of the toad is pressed against the actuator and, therefore, the action of it, will over come that strong spring and apply the brakes in the toad. But, as you back off on the brakes in the coach, that spring takes over and actually "backs off" the toad enough that the actuation of the brake pedal is released but, as you most likely know, the brake switch on the toad is normally adjusted in such a manor that, it closes the circuit even when the brake arm in the toad is SLIGHTLY moved.
Hence, that's why you'll see the light on your dash. The arm is moved enough to trigger the light but, not apply the toad brakes.
Now, when I set my system up, I too sent the signal from the toads brake switch to the dash on the coach. But, I did it in what to me is, a very simple way. You'd be surprised how many folks out there in RV land don't have a clue that their toads brake lights are being lit up when they're using an auxiliary brake system in toad. No one ever tells them.
Anyway, because I wired my toads all the exact same way, (seven different Jeep Wranglers over a 25 year period) and that is to utilize the stock tail lights for toad lights when towing. So, to alleviate the dual signals being sent to the same filament while towing, here's what I did.
A very simple solution. No diodes in this section. All I did was, cut the brake switch output wire from the toads brake switch. I then routed it to a tiny, double throw, toggle switch located almost in the door jamb of the Jeep. I ran that wire to the center post of that toggle. Then, I ran another wire, right back to the cut wire on the brake light switch. I tied those together. Now, I ran another wire from the other side of that toggle switch, to the front of the toad, through the pig tail, and all the way to an LED light on the dash of the coach.
Now, when the toad is being towed, I flip the switch to send the toads brake switch signal, to the dash on the coach. But, when driving the toad, I flip the switch to send the toads brake light signal to the toads brake lights, as normal. To me, it was incredibly simple solution to cover three issues. 1, it stops dual signals being sent to one filament, 2, it allows for one filament to accommodate signals from two different sources, and 3, It allows for me to be notified that the R/B system is working correctly.
Just another way to look at your situation for you. Take care.
I have to ask, what are you guys drivin'? 450-500 ft. lbs. is bolt snapping range for most of what I work on. I freaked when I first read this thread and I went and looked at the Ford Chassis manual that came with the 1994 33' Holiday Rambler I bought recently. The manual (for Ford Super Duty trucks) gave 140 ft. lbs. which is more in the range I expected.
A simple explanation is that the larger, mostly diesel pusher rigs use the larger 22.5" tires and wheels and, pretty large lug nuts and studs. (Our lug nuts are 33mm and a the stud is around 3/4" in diameter). While the somewhat "smaller" chassis'd units use the 19.5" tires and wheels and therefore, smaller lug nuts and studs. And then there's the units like the general Class C units that at least used to use, 16" wheels and tires. Some may still do, no idea.
Obviously, the larger the lug nut/tire wheel combo, the higher the torque for holding things on and together. As stated earlier, our lug nuts have stamped right on the outer edge, "450 ft. lbs." Hope this helps some.
If you gather your input from internet forums, you only hear the bad stories. The thousands of Folks who are happy with no problems don't feel the need to go post on a forum.
I have a 2005 C7 that's been flawless and very reliable. There were a few initial issues mainly caused by Freightliner the chassis builder, but were easily worked out.
I guess most of the problems have been with the mid-2000 models, C7 and others. Most of the complaints have been with the fans seizing, fuel pumps going bad, blown head gaskets and other problems.
I haven't seen any problems on earlier models and very few people have posted as Dolan did, no problems.
Just wondering if it was a short period where the problems came from and then the problems were fixed. Thanks again.
That's pretty much the norm!
People will write and talk about "issues" way more than just coming out and posting, "man, we've got a 20xx series CAT and it's been working flawlessly for all the time we've owned it." I am not an expert on Diesels but, have been driving them for my entire career in Fire Department related use. We've had CATs, Cummins, Detroits, and even a few Internationals. While each has worked for us over the years, we chose as a base engine for the last 15+ years, the Detroit series 60.
But, in motor home use, if anyone who's been into any research of the diesels used in them for the last few years has found out that, both Cummins and CAT has had issues. Certain models of Cummins have had and, maybe still are for all I know, "Wrist Pin" issues. And, from what I've read and heard, the remedy for that is not pretty in the eyes of the present owners.
And as for CAT, yes the C-7 has had some issues. Namely the HEUI pump. Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injector pump. When it decides to go south for the winter, it takes the injectors with it. That, as an average, is pretty close to about a $6500.00-$7,000.00 repair. The predecessor is the 3126 Series CATs and, seem to have a tad bit better durability/longevity record for CAT than the C-7. But, that's not to say the C-7 is a bad engine. There's only a few hundred thousand of them still running flawlessly in not only motor homes but dump trucks, delivery trucks, some over the road trucks and more.
So, while CAT decided to pull out of the "On the road" diesel market a few years back, I'd not hesitate to own another CAT engine. We presently have an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330 CAT. I'm not too fond of the non-lube fan bearing but, it is what it is and, so far, it's doing just fine. About the only thing I like better about the Cummins than the CAT is, HP for HP, the Cummins has a higher torque rating.
Another fix for out of round tires is that the tire is not so much out of round itself as it is not seated correctly on the rim. I fought a vibration like this for quite awhile until one of the shops broke the front tires down, rotated them on the rim, reseated and re balanced. You want to make sure they are heavily soaped so that they seal centered.
When we picked up our present coach, it had a small but, noticeable shake/wobble in the steering wheel/front end. Well, we were in Reno NV at the time and, we were to drive our "new to us" motorhome all the way to San Diego. And, I was not going to feel that wobble/shake for over 500-600 + miles so, knowing the previous owner had replaced all six tires less than a year to our acquiring the coach, from Les Schwab tire Co., we were approaching Carson City NV and we pulled off there to find a Les Schwab and see what they could do about it, if anything.
Well, we found one very close to where we were and called them and they said, come right on down. We pulled into a bay and they jumped right on it. I watched the tech and he first put the right front on a balancing machine to check out the condition of that tire/wheel prior do starting any work on it. Well, he called me over and told me to observe as he spun the tire on the machine. He said, "You see that" as he pointed to the reference line just next to the outer edge of the rim and, it was varying widely in distance from the edge of the rim.
So, he stated, "this is an easy fix". He removed all the weights, deflated the tire, rotated as stated above and re-mounted it. Then he and I both watched again as the tire was spun up to driving speed. WAAAAAAAAY BETTER! When it came to replacing the weights that had been removed, only about a third of the weight was needed to balance that tire/wheel.
He then did the same exact procedure to the other front wheel. It was the same situation. He said it was rare for a tire to not be seated correctly but, it does happen from time to time. When they were done, it was "NO CHARGE" situation due to the tires had a warranty for workmanship etc. on them. We hit the freeway which, was glass smooth section of highway 395 south, and that coach was dead smooth. And, it's been like that ever since.
Most Discount tire shop techs are fairly on the ball when it comes to analyzing tire/balance issues. They can get pretty technical when it comes to todays balancing. But, I don't care how technical they can and want to get if, you have one or more out of round tires, you can balance them every day for the rest of your life, AND THEY'RE STILL OUT OF ROUND. AN EGG IS AN EGG, PERIOD!
If tires are round, which, in motor home cases, getting perfectly round tires is less frequent than you would expect, then balancing is a no-brainer. It doesn't matter what technique you use, lead (now other metal since the planet hates lead), balancing beads, powders, rotating balls (as in Balance Masters) etc. Any of those methods will work, IF THE TIRES ARE ROUND!
So, here's the deal. Make sure the tires are inflated to the correct pressure and not low. Then, take the rig out and drive it for a good 15-20 minutes so that they are warm and, have no residual effect from sitting during the night. Then, upon return home, as soon as you can, raise the front end or, at least one tire at a time and place a gauge of some sort (could be two small 2x4 pieces nailed together with one standing up about 10-15" and, a nail protruding through it.
Now, place the tip of the nail very close to the outer tread(s) and then begin to spin that tire/wheel by hand and observe the deflection of the tire in close proximity to the tip of the nail. In other words, watch the variation of the distance that is created between the tread and the tip of the nail as you spin the tire.
Now, in the past, when I talked with several Discount Store Managers, a runout of more than .060 was declared an "unacceptable" tire and, it would be replaced. Anything more than that amount was an egg. So, you see, since tire manufacturers have been making tires since the Civil War, they pretty much know how to make them round. But, quality control does slip through the cracks every now and then and, a bad "batch" of tires will cruise right on down to the local tire store and be sold.
Now, the method for checking that I described above is a home procedure. Discount and any other tire store can do it right on the tire balancing machine much easier. Now, I'm not guaranteeing that this is your problem but, based on the fact that you have had multiple Discount tire stores "goof around" with your tires and they're still shaking/wobbling, and you don't mention that it ever happened prior to the tire change in the first place, than, I'd just about bet your house that it or "they" are out of round. Just a suggestion here. Good luck and please, please come back and post what you find out so that others will learn.
It's always nice to have "Options" when it comes to having compressed air in our coaches for various reasons. After having (7) different Jeep Wranglers over a 25 year period, and all of them having an engine driven air compressor, it's definitely a force of habit having a good supply of air while out and about.
Yes, those of us who have diesel pusher units have a full supply of air, and the source is of course, an engine driven air compressor. And, many have outputs for use as tire filling stations etc. But, sometimes starting the big beast up, possibly in prepping for an early morning departure, just to utilize the engine driven compressor to top off a tire, might not be looked on too favorable by fellow campers.
So, out comes the "auxiliary compressor". And that can be one of many different models and makes. I'm not a fan of any 12V unit due to the very low CFM output of all of them. Yes, some claim HIGH PSI but, that high psi is momentary at best. High PSI in a volume the size of a basket ball is not overly hard to achieve from one of those. But, trying to achieve high psi on some thing the size of 255 80 22.5 or the 300 80 22.5 is pretty hard to say the least.
Many, including myself use the Sears unit as an auxiliary compressor for such a task. It seems to put out a fair SCFM at a rate that's tolerable for most. As stated, there are multiple makes and models so, just make sure the volume and SCFM is acceptable so you're not there for hours on end, just to top off one tire.
Well, this is a bit odd. I'm not a fan of adding additional bulbs and sockets but, that's just me. I've wired the stock bulbs to work just fine for over 25 years on seven different Jeep Wranglers with out issues. But, it's up to the individual to choose how he want's it done.
Now, you say it ALL works fine, until you blow bulbs. Well, obviously something's possibly shorting out at certain intervals. I don't think anything is getting too much voltage because, 12V is 12V and there is no more than 12V in those systems. So a short sounds like the possible answer to me. But, why at intervals? I mean, why does it all work fine and then, the bulbs are out?
You also say your rig has "Amber" turn signals. I'd just about bet my house that you already have a "three wire to a two wire" converter inside the coach wiring prior to the plug on the coach. Just about no 7 pin plug is wired as a separate right turn and left turn, with a dedicated brake light wire. So, if you say that your system is working "FINE" until the bulbs blow, then you're getting the correct signal to the newly installed bulbs. That is, a RT/brake and a LT/Brake.
Now, there is a possibility that maybe your converter is shorting out and causing the bulbs to blow? Sure it can. It's electronic and, is quite capable of screwing up. They don't goof up very often but, it happens.
I'm wondering, what caused the "slit" in the first place? A possible defect in the pipe that was installed after the muffler? Does it look like damage of some sort or something that else? Anyway, a picture would be nice if you could, if not, not the end of the world. But, depending on what the circumstances are, why it happened, is it traveling? Getting larger? etc. I'd weld it. Yeah, it would take you a bit of time to disconnect the negatives of the batteries in prep but, that's a permanent fix for it. You're guaranteed that it will not get any worse and, in fact, will be repaired.
There are possible epoxies out there that might withstand the heat and sever vibration and, maybe it's worth an experiment or two. Good luck.
Anyone have a wiring schematic for using diodes on a Jeep for wiring in the tow lights ?
Knowing which color wires to cut into would make the process alot simpler. I am planning on wiring my '05 LJ with diodes but unsure if I am going wire the diodes inside or underneath near the tail lights.
Well Sir, as stated above, I've done it so many times I could probably do it in my sleep but, since I'm getting (already am) old, I can't remember what color the wires are pertaining to each side. Also as stated, the entire wiring loom for all the rear tail lights are ran, just under the door sill, right next to the drives left knee. So, all that's needed is to release that loom from it's captive holders and, open it up, then do a probe (with a 12V test light hooked to a ground, and probe the wires while a turn signal is on for each side. Then do it for the running lights. Done!
Now, you strip a tiny section of the wire for each conductor, left turn, right turn and then running light wire, then "T" onto it and, wrap your incoming wire around the newly stripped section tightly, then a dab of solder to keep that connection secure and tight. Then, wrap it with some good quality tape and that one is done. Then, do it to the other two and then that section is complete.
Now, as for the diode, an inch or two or three, down stream (towards the front of the jeep), each of those turn signal wires will actually need to be cut. Then stripped, then a diode is installed "In line" and the wire is soldered back together and that's done. You don't need to do it to the running light wires. The only effect if you don't do it to the running light wires is, the front parking lights will light up to with your coach signal. Many folks, including myself actually like that because it creates light for tight turning at night or darker conditions between the corner of the coach and the corner of the toad.
It's a very, very simple system and very easy to do. I'm attaching a diagram I drew up of my recent job I did on our '11 Honda CRV. The only reason I'm attaching it is so you can actually see what is done and, diode placement. Don't pay any attention to the fact that the Honda has "amber" turn signals because you, and every other Jeep doesn't. And, there is a converter box in that system that you will not need. It's there to separate the signals from a "two wire" system to a "three wire" system. I'm just showing you how the attaching is done and how it applies to the factory wires. Any questions, let me know.
Scott - Thanks for the perspective. I have an electrical engineering background that put food on the table for a number of years and I am a ham radio operator so I'm not afraid to tackle electrical issues. As you pointed out the vehicle braking system would simultaneously power up the brake light when using Ready Brake. Your kill switch idea is a good one and certainly workable but I figure installing separate sockets keep the MH and the toad electrical systems completely isolated keeps things cleaner. I can just simply pull the brake fuse in the Jeep to prevent the Jeep supplied brake lights from overpowering the other lamps I install in the rear light housings. Having said all that, I am still considering diodes. I have a box of them in the ham shack that should work if I decide to use that option. Diodes will also make the center brake light work. Anyway, thanks for the good advice. I'll let it factor into my final decision.
Roger that Sir. Now, just for grins, and as many of these as I've done and wired, with the exception of our present toad, the 2011 CRV, I'd like to know how you'd set up the third brake light by utilizing a dual filament system. You see, with amber turn signals, you have a dedicated brake light circuit so, tying into that third brake light with the brake light signal wire from the coach would be easy.
But, how would you do it with a "dual filament" system without that third brake light blinking when either of the turn are signals blinking?
I've seen guys in the past add a third brake light when they weren't popular yet and, that third brake light "flashes" when either of the turn signals flash. But, they work when neither of the lights flash and the brakes are applied. I'm sure that with the proper placement of relays and diodes etc. which, is over my head, it would probably work.
Adding a "charge wire" to the system of most toads is a great idea. It is needed in many because of a situation like yours, there is a drain on the toads battery. As far as what pin in the plug, most plugs have a diagram right on them, telling what does what. I used the largest wire I could, within reason from the pig tail all the way to the positive post on our '11 Honda CRV.
The heck with pulling those dam fuses. The one for the CRV is so hard to get to and, you have to be standing on your head and have triple joints in order to pull it and replace it. So, the addition of the charge wire was the order of the day. It's worked flawless now for several thousand miles.
Now, just how long would it take for and auxiliary braking system to run a toads battery down enough so the toad will not start, well that's quite variable. But, according to folks on here an other RV forums, sometimes it's rather rapidly. So, the charge wire is the answer. If you can do say, a 12 or even a 10GA wire to the positive post on the toads battery, from your pig tail between the two vehicles, you'll be way more than protected and won't have to pull any fuses. Your choice.
Well Sir, for some odd reason, folks have tendency to panic when it comes to "tying" into the factory Jeep wiring for lights. I have no idea why. You can't get much simpler. You see, ALL the light wires pass right by the left knee of the driver, just under the door sill. We've towed (7) different Jeep Wranglers all over the U.S. and wired the stock tail light bulbs to work with the RV. We did that for over 25 years of Jeeping and they always worked perfect.
Absolutely NEVER had any issues what so ever. It's very easy. And, you don't have to run the wires from the coach all the way to the back of the Jeep. You simply remove the bulk of wires to a workable space along side the door sill. Then, you find the right turn, the left turn, and the running light wire. You then "T" into them with a clean solder joint and tape, DONE!
But, yes the diodes will have to be used so the signal from the coach does not travel down stream to the steering column and get the electrical system confused. I don't use those fancy Diode kits from the big suppliers like Camping World, E-trailer.com and others. I have used the $3.00 pack of diodes from Radio Shack and they're rated for way higher amp and voltage anyway so, I've always been way over protected.
Once you're done, your lights will work as they're supposed to. Now, as for your third brake light. No, there is no LEGAL requirement for it to be activated when the vehicle is being towed. I set mine up to be activated in my 2011 Honda CRV simply because it was easy to do so. The reason it was easy on the CRV was because that car has "Amber" turn signals which are totally separate from the brake light system. But, on a "two-filament" system, such as a Jeep, the third brake light is a totally separate system from the normal brake lights. So, to activate it with the wiring from the coach, would take intricate wiring.
Anyway, do as you like. There's no need to panic when it comes to tying into the factory wiring. It's wiring, not the plague. Simply strip some insulation, wrap your new signal wire from the coach, solder it, wrap it up with tape nice and tight, DONE. Put all the wires back under the door sill and, that's it. Your choice. Good luck how ever you do it.
P.S. Yes, if you add an auxiliary braking system like say, the Ready Brake, the Jeep brake lights will be activated when the Jeeps brakes are applied. Now you'll have two conflicting signals going to the tail lights. So, my simple remedy was to cut the brake light signal wire from the brake switch on the Jeep, run it to the door jamb where, I installed a micro-toggle switch, double throw.
On one side of the switch, I ran a wire right back down to the place where I cut it and tied it onto the cut wire. On the other side of the switch, I ran that wire, all the way to the front of the Jeep, the through the Pig tail, and all the way to the dash on on the motor home. Now, When towing the Jeep, I simply flip the switch so the signal from the jeeps brake switch is sent to the dash on the motor home where it lights a tiny LED, telling me the brakes are being applied in the Jeep.
When driving the jeep, we flip the switch so the signal from the Jeeps brake switch travels as normal to the jeeps brake lights.
I haven't it, but if you do have it done give us a report back on how much it costs and whether it was worth it or not.
A was thinking about looking into a wrap for my motorhome. I looked at it about a year ago and if I remember right it would have cost about $1500 and they say will last about 5 years. Most of the time when people are doing wraps they are putting pictures or some type of advertisement on them, but it's all designed on a computer so you can put whatever you wanted on it. A custom stripe job, or a B-52 or anything you can think of. $1500 every five years is cheaper than an $8000 paint job every 10 to 15 years.
Wow, a "52" on the side of a coach, now that's cool. I'd like an SR-71 or, a maybe a B-58 Hustler, maybe even the "Enola Gay" too.
This is one of those things that never is realized when wiring things a certain way and, the use of an auxiliary braking system like Ready Brake is used. By a certain way I mean, using the stock tail lights as toad lights. I've been doing it that way for decades without any issues. Let's say you wired your toad so that the original tail light bulbs are also used when towing it. Now, this is also assuming that you "DON'T" have amber turn signals on the toad. That's a whole other set of circumstances.
But, here's the deal. You wire your toad so the original tail light bulbs are activated when using the motorhome brakes. And, when you put a turn signal on in the coach, your toad will display the same signal, correct? Ok, all is fine. But, here comes the "Ready Brake" into the picture.
So, you're approaching a turn, and, putting on the brakes of the coach. Your brake lights come on in the coach, and so do the toads and, you put your turn signal on. Now, normally this is not an issue and all will work fine. But, the Ready Brake is applying the brakes in the toad. As you have noticed, the key is off and, when the brakes are applied in the toad, the brake lights will come on. So now, you've got two sets of signals heading to those toad lights. Brake lights,(from the coach and the toad) and turn signals from the coach.
But, you've got another set of signals coming from the brake light switch on the toad, also heading to those toad lights. Hmmmmm
So, what happens? Well, you can't have two conflicting signals going to the same filament, in the same bulb. Only one is going to take priority. To tell you the truth, I'm not sure which one will be the winner because I've not followed myself or anyone else that has this issue. I will tell you what I did to remedy it. My solution is plain and simple.
I cut the brake light wire from the brake switch in the toad and sent it up to very close to the door jamb. There I installed a tiny, double throw toggle switch. I then put that wire in the center position on the switch. On one leg of the switch, I sent it right back to the connection on the brake switch on the toad. On the other leg, I sent that wire all the way up to the front of the toad, and through the pig tail, all the way to the dash on the coach.
I then installed an "LED" in the dash of the coach. Now, when the toad is hooked up and ready to be towed, I flip that switch, so that when the Ready Brake is applied, the signal from the brake pedal in the toad is sent to the dash on the coach. That way, I can tell if the brakes are being applied in the toad.
But, when it comes time to drive the toad, then all I do is flip that switch to the other side and the signal from the brake light switch on the toad, goes to the brake lights on the toad, as is does normally.
Yes, the diodes are installed in the system, down stream from the intersection where I tied into the factory wiring. That's so the signal from the coach doesn't go down stream all the way to the steering column and the front set of lights on the toad. Incidentally, I don't get those high dollar diodes from all the specialty places, I use the $3.00 pack from Radio Shack and it has worked absolutely flawless for well over 30 years. Good luck.