87 octane is mid grade here whereas 85 is regular. When we first moved to Colorado, the vehicle we had took some time getting used to 85 as it had been run on 87 for the first 4 years of its life while at sea level. Our new vehicle runs just fine on 85 as it hasn't had any higher octane fuel for the ECM to calibrate to.
Well if it weren't for all of the tree huggers, we wouldn't have half of the ridiculous laws and restrictions that we do. I'm not one to be necessarily wasteful and try to conserve when and where I can, but there are those who take things to ridiculous extremes. I am an HVAC tech by trade, and unfortunately have to work in Boulder from time to time. Boulder prohibits the use of compressed gases, any type of chemicals (eco safe or not),and even WATER for cleaning air conditioning coils. In still haven't figured out what I'm supposed to use there. Like washing dust and dirt out of an air conditioner is any different than rain water washing dirt off the roads? But, its okay for the city of Boulder to allow excess irrigation water to run down the curbs into the storm drains.....You sometimes have to seriously question the logic behind some of the regulations in place. I do however understand why dumping freshwater isn't allowed on public roads....probably not really a concern of contamination of some sort, but more of a blanket law to prohibit dumping of anything. Just because you're only dumping excess fresh water, doesn't mean that's what Cousin Eddie is dumping, and that is likely the real issue at hand.
That is why I vented here. I do my best to let the stuff go when I am driving, but man yesterday it was rough.
driving situations happen all the time. let this stuff go is exactly what ya gotta do!!
total of 12 hr round trip this week. we met only 3-4 people who stink at driving. not a bad trip for us this time.
most just don't know where the gas pedal is and they need a refresher course. pull out in front of a monster rig like ours, and then don't accelerate is just wrong :)
Ha! That's what guard rails and ditches are for...
Thank you FoCoNoCO...to answer your question, this is a heating-only application. We have a roof-mounted AC unit with controls directly on it.
I played around with the stat last night at my kitchen table. I put the batteries in and the thermostat display lit up. I placed the thermostat in heating mode and cranked up the heat to above ambient. You can hear the contacts getting power. I tried using my multimeter to see if there is any continuity and there wasn't between R and W. I am not sure if this is the correct test with the stat off the wall, but I tried it anyway.
I'm going to go out to the trailer tonight and try it again. We will see what happens.
Red wire to w/w1 and white to common should work or vice versa for 1 stage heating.
Sorry, but a residential thermostat does not close ANY contact to common. That would cause a direct short. 1st stage heat closes R or RH to W/W1.
As for no continuity between R and W, I'm not sure if that thermostat has separate RC and Rh terminals. If it does, the wires need to be connected to Rh and W/W1. I would also check to verify that you actually have voltage on your red wire to ground with the tstat face removed. If you do have voltage at red, then reinstall the thermostat and set to heat and set point above ambient. Then check at the furnace to see if you have voltage from white to ground. If you do not have voltage from white to ground, you likely either have a bad thermostat or a broken white wire. Note:be sure that you are checking to a known good ground or you will read 0 volts
If you let the taxes plan your trips for you, you're going to be home a lot!!
My mother lives in Florida and complains about the 6-6.5% sales taxes and no state income taxes. We pay about 5% in state income tax and the sales tax varies from county to county and city to city, but the average sales tax is anywhere from 7.5-8.0% and some places are higher. I don't plan my life around it at all. I chose to live in Colorado and just deal with it as needed. If I based my life on taxes, I wouldn't know where to live. We can all be sure of two things in life--death and taxes.
You guys are scaring this flatlander.. I had already been concerned about how I would manage driving in the western mountains when I have the chance to head that directions... and now something else to worry about.. stuff exploding as I go up those mountains.. not to hijack thread.. but any suggestions on where to learn these things and how to drive in mountains other than trial by fire when I get there.
1. Check your tire pressure before you start moving every day (but I am sure you do that anyway - right?)
2. Deflate your air mattress a little bit before you start moving every day. Also check any inflatable goods such as childrens toys or swim gear. You dont need to completely empty them.
3. Store all containers with liquids in them with the lid up - that way the air is next to the lid (as opposed to the contents) and if the lids should open or leak, only the air will be forced out. If you are concerned about a little bit of splatter if the lid should pop open, put a small plastic or paper bag over the top. As long as the lid is the highest point on the container - the contents will remain inside. Also - after arriving - when you open any container with liquid, make sure you open them with the lid upward. Those upside down type ketchup dispensors will make quite a mess. Dont ask how I know.
4. Store items like chips and cookies that are in original sealed bags inside of a box or non-airtight container. If they pop, they wont fly all over the place
5. take care in handling carbinated beverages - coke, champaign - as they will be more "vigorous" when opened - especially if they are hot or have been shook
6. Depending on how high you go - you may need to pay attention to cooking time when making meals
In other words - common sense.
Ha! My in laws live in Michigan at an altitude of 400 feet. To save money, they bring their own beer and pop from Michigan or somewhere along the way. And sure enough, once they open them up here at 5000 feet plus, it looks like the Mentos/Diet Coke demos you see (OK, so not that extreme, but they still lose half of what was in the cans or bottles). I keep telling them not to buy that stuff until they get to Colorado. What irritates me is if I go to 7-11 for coffee and use those little creamer cups for my coffee. I swear they are all packed at sea level as they all spurt half and half all over the place!
And as far as cooking times, they generally begin to require adjustment over 3000 feet. Where I live, water boils at about 197 degrees, therefore most things take longer to cook. The typical 7 minute sea level pasta takes about 12 minutes or a bit longer here. And don't even get me started on baking. That's still hit and miss.
I would go on every RV sight and bad mouth them . I would also put a sign on my RV saying not to buy a RV from them. I bad word travels three times faster than a good word.
Do that sir and you are an imbecile. The dealer may have sold the extended service contract but it is the customer's fault if he didn't understand what was and was not included with it. Don't blame the dealer because a 3rd party contract like Zurich or Good Sam didn't pay out. That's like saying you will never by a Ford again because Progressive didn't pay to fix your vehicle after a wreck! You're trying to fit a square shaped argument into a circle shaped hole. It just doesn't make sense!
The real issue here is that the customer is not taking responsibility for his own stupidity (that may be harsh.. call it negligence then). Now we have other members on this forum that are just as mentally handicapped advising to slander a dealer because a service contract would not cover a part (tires) that was most likely printed in black and white as a non-covered part. Go figure.
This is typical in these types of posts. "Help" I got ripped off because I was to lazy to read the contract. Hey -- maybe you didn't get ripped off at all. Maybe if you read the service contract you will find out that slide covers and tires are not covered parts on your contract. If you read the contract you would have known to submit for a claim before paying for repairs. Just a novel idea that is all.
Also - some people on this thread (not the OP I might add) seem to think that it is absurd that this fellas service contract refund is or will sent back to the bank (lien holder) for his RV instead of him. Well that's how it works -- EVERYWHERE -- all the time no exceptions. If he didn't use his money to purchase the contract then he used the banks money. The bank will always have first rights at any refund for add-on products unless the customer can provide a valid lien release showing the RV was paid off. "Take'em to small claims court they preach" and then "Let's hang them no good RV dealers" they say. Get real people! Ya'll saying this stuff need to go on Amazon and get Commonsense For Dummies.Exactly. Apparently personal responsibility is practiced only in Montana. It is not exactly a secret that tires are never covered by vehicle warranties. As for the other exemptions from coverage, I am 100% sure they are listed in the extended service contract in black and white. We have never had any problems with our extended service contract failing to cover items, but then again we read the contract and know what is covered and what is not and what to do to get a claim paid. Going through life with your fingers crossed hoping things will go your way, instead doing your due dilligence and understanding what you are signing and buying is not a good plan in my opinion.
Spending many years as an auto service writer, I completely agree. "Extended Warranties" are not warranties. They are mechanical breakdown insurance policies,most with a deductible of some sort. MOST of them are very clear on what they do cover and very vague on what they don't, and many times, the wording used by a service department has a bearing on what may or may not be covered. For example, a hard aluminum A/C pipe gets a hole in it. Some warranty companies willpay for a solid pipe, but not a rubber hose. If the service department calls it a "line" the insurer may interpret that to be a soft, flexible, rubber hose, and deny the claim. Any many times, other things needed for the repair may not be covered, such as refrigerant, seals, etc. So in many cases, the language used can dictate coverage or denial. Some warranty companies MAY allow you to have an emergency repaired and then file for reimbursement. Most companies do not allow this.
As far as tire coverage, the policies I have seen for this only cover road hazard damage, not tire failure. If the tire is repairable, they will pay for a repair up to the policy limit. If the tire is NOT repairable, they will pay for a comparable replacement on a pro rata basis, meaning that they will devalue the tire based on the remaining tread depth, compared to what the original tread depth was. For tires that fail from tread separation, etc., there is generally no coverage, as that would fall back on the manufacturer.
Bottom line, as stated as nauseum, is to read these contracts very carefully and understand what is covered and what isn't. I would never trust a salesperson's or finance manager's word about "bumper to bumper" coverage, as that type of policy doesn't exist. Extended warranties generally do not cover any wear items or consumables.
How many R terminals does the thermostat have? If it has an RC and an RH, then you need to connect to RH and W. Also, have you checked to see of the thermostat is actually battery powered or if it is a power-stealing thermostat? Just because a thermostat takes batteries, it is not necessarily a battery powered thermostat, sometimes the batteries are only used to retain various programming options in the thermostat's subprogram. If you have a power stealing thermostat, it will not work on any voltage other than 24VAC, as it requires a R(24VAC) and C(common) connection to get the voltage it needs to operate. 3VDC is not the correct voltage to close the contacts in this case. Make sure the thermostat is actually a battery powered thermostat. My guess is that if the furnace runs by jumping red to white, then you either have a faulty thermostat, or that it is a power stealing model.
Just checked and found the manual for that thermostat - it is not a power stealing model, but can be used as one if you connect R and C from a 24VAC source, or can be powered by batteries. Is this thermostat being used for a furnace and A/C or for heating only? The instructions are written for residential 24VAC typical wiring color codes which are R (24VAC), C (Common), Y/Y1 (first stage cooling), Y2 (second stage cooling), G (fan), W/W1 (first stage heating), W2 (second stage heating), O/B (reversing valve for heat pumps). Once you get the wiring figured out, you will also need to set the thermostat's subprogram for 1 heat if for furnace only, or 1 heat/1 cool if using for furnace and A/C control. If you disconnect all wiring to the thermostat, set it for heat, and raise the temp setting above ambient, do you hear a click noise from thermostat? This would tell you if the contacts are getting voltage to close (but not necessarily that they are indeed closed).
Have always wondered why people open pressure relief valves. They are not designed to be repeatedly opened. Opening the valves does two things, weakens the spring, and dislodges the rubber seal and allows the P/T valve to leak.
Have had bear, white tail deer, moose, elk, bison, rattlesnake, alligator myself. Never tried chipmunk, but do know people that have eaten prairie dog. Have always wondered if cooking a rodent like that would kill the diseases it carries. PD's are known to have bubonic plague around here.
I had a heat pump air conditioner in my home. The air coming out the registers seemed to be in the low 90's.
that is my complaint about heat pumps and I have gone thru a bunch of them in my S&Bs. the only time you get "hot" air is when it is no longer a heat pump and is back on the electrical resistive heat.
The output temp on a heat pump depends on many factors, including but not limited to: how clean Indoor and outdoor coils are, how clean and type of filter installed, outdoor temperature, refrigerant charge, amount of ice buildup on outdoor coil, frequency of defrost cycles, etc. If you're not getting hot air from your heat pump in temps over 40, then you likely have a problem with yours. Annual maintenance on heat pumps is important. Funny that the majority of service calls that I get are d toy negligence/lack of maintenance, and the majority of repairs could have been avoided with a bit of TLC
Just a note to the guys out there. If you want to practice accident avoidance in a slightly less demanding environment -
Go to the mall with your Significant Other. NEVER walk between your SO and the store fronts. You are setting yourself up for being cut off without warning, forcing you to slam on the brakes to avoid a collision. If you hear words like "Oh, look", consider it a last minute turn signal and prepare to execute an accident avoidance maneuver. Slam on the brakes and change lanes if there's room. And make sure that you have good tread on your sneakers. Practice at the mall on Sunday Mornings when there is less traffic. Avoid the lane closest to the store fronts. Watch for traffic entering the flow.
This is the voice of experience. :)
Now if that isn't true! Don't get me started on the morons at the mall. You will quickly learn the definition of rude, selfish, inconsiderate, stupid, and clueless. I end up getting so frustrated and irritated at the malls that I have to leave in short order.
Let me guess, you picked the company that gave you the lowest bid, right. I'm just thinking a good, quality, long time company wouldn't stay in business long working like that.
One question though, why would you really need an AC in Alaska?
Umm.....AL is ALabama. AK would be AlasKa
Get a dodge with a 6.7 and take it.
And I do not understand stoplights at the merge point nor people who decide to stop without the light.
Stoplights....They make it easier to merge into traffic.In CA,when they are turned on,traffic will be moving at a slow crawl on the freeway,and in most cases there will be two lanes merging onto the freeway.
Now, those folks that stop without the traffic light?
They may be stopped to dial the phone.Not safe to dial in traffic :W
They also have a number of controlled access ramps in Denver. I think it helps a bit with merging, but bottom line is these highways are simply too congested in the first place. I will say that the lights do break up the nonstop stream of vehicles trying to merge.
Tested at the breaker box and have 250 coming in at the 50 amp breaker. Tested the neutral wire to ground and got 125.If this isn't a typo you've found a major problem.
Hot to hot: 240V, either hot to neutral: 120V, either hot to ground: 120V, ground to neutral: 0-3V
X2. You should not read any voltage from neutral to ground.
...they may need an RV that can carry their toys 30 miles off road, whereas you may not have that need. Different strokes for different folks....
True, I realize that. The gap is closing though where diversity of product doesn't necessitate a "cheap product" and in the case of RV's, this is a good thing.
I believe that sooner or later, all RV mfgs will have to, by default build better and smarter and I'm seeing that trend happening now, with the Koalas and The Evergreens, The Skyline Walkabout especially!
And true, the Land Rover has a notoriously poor electrical system and I've been bitten by that bug myself. The only real complaint I have with my Rover so far has been electrical.
Fundamentally, I'm in agreement with what you said.
I would have to disagree about all manufacturers improving their quality for several reasons. I'm sure there are tons of processes that could be improved upon and build virtually indestructible RV's. However, with these processes comes increased costs. RV manufacturers, like all manufacturers, are in business to make money. In order to make money, they have to maintain a certain profit margin. In order to maintain this margin, they are always trying to cut costs to stay profitable and possibly become more profitable. Part of the issue is that RV manufacturers need to find buyers of all ages and income brackets. If they built perfect, bulletproof reliability units, the production costs would be extremely high, and the sales prices on those units would put them within reach of the wealthy. On the other hand, if everyone completely stopped buying RV's completely, that may force a change with the manufacturers. However, as long as people are buying their products and they are remaining profitable, things won't change, as there is very little, if any, competition with better quality at the same price point.
Again, I'll use the auto industry as an example of why quality has improved. Up until the mid 1980's, most domestic automobiles were notoriously of poor quality. Well along come the Japanese who could produce a vehicle with better reliability. Obviously faced with the threat of lost market share, the domestics were either going to have to improve or their futures could be in jeopardy. So over the years, quality has improved across the board due to competition.
I have seen some recent improvements in RV's. I think that Forest River has improved considerably since being acquired by Berkshire Hathaway/Warren Buffet. Also with the number of players being somewhat consolidated, quality may improve a bit overall. As for Koala or anything made by Skyline, I personally do not see the quality in most of their units. I would guess that they may have some better quality units, the Weekenders and Joeys I've seen look like someone went hog wild with their staple gun and missed 60% of the time. Have seen many with staples sticking out through wallboard, cabinets falling off the walls, etc. Reminded me of some of the lower end Gulf stream Amerilites I've run across.
There is no perfect RV that I have found, without getting into high end class A's and bus conversions(though if I had an unlimited budget, I would likely lean this way). I do like the Lance TT's that you like, but they simply don't currently have a product that suits my wants.
Quite honestly, high quality materials should be used in the manufacturing of everything, though as we all know, that isn't the case. Take the automotive industry---there are quality differences between all manufacturers. There are variances in parts as well as assembly methods. Let's take your Land Rover for example--they are generally highly regarded as being excellent in off road conditions. As for reliability, unfortunately, like the majority of English vehicles, rank horribly low in the reliability ratings. They do have a place among those who demand excellent off road abilities, but also historically have a place in the mechanic's garage. Same can be said for RV's....what's good for one, may not be good for another. You place a great emphasis on high quality materials and construction, but that may not be as important to someone else--they may need an RV that can carry their toys 30 miles off road, whereas you may not have that need. Different strokes for different folks....
Back to the original question about an extra hookup option, there are several ways to do it, some of which would be unsafe and would not meet NEC, and I would not condone doing so, so I will not mention that option. What COULD be done would depend on accessibility. Say for example, you're wanting to power the microwave. If there is an existing accessible outlet that the microwave is plugged into, it may be possible to add another, separate, clearly labeled outlet nearby, and have this new outlet wired to it's own panel with a 15A or 20A breaker, which could then be connected to the power pole's 20A outlet, though this would require various connectors to make this safe. I mentioned adding this separate interior outlet to give the option of using the park's 20A outlet, or by plugging into the OEM plug, can be run off the trailer's own 30A supply, and this would not pose the potential of power back feeds, etc. Keep in mind that this type of setup would be required to be properly grounded, of course.