| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: A different residential refer question
Good news so far thanks everyone.
On our coach, the Samsung RF197 will practically slide right. Just need to remove the pots and pans drawer below the Norcold.
My plan is to also use the existing inverter and batteries. I was mostly concerned about the long term rocking and rolling on the compressor.
|
Gator48
|
05/07/13 07:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
A different residential refer question
We are continuing the research towards the eventual Norcold change out.
My questions for those who have made the change, or purchased new with a residential refer are.
How are they holding up? Would you do it again? Is the Samsung 197 about the only choice or are there others. They are obviously not built for the rough service seen on our RVs.
Lets hear what you have to say
Dave
|
Gator48
|
05/07/13 03:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: See ya Snow Birds-hello Love Bugs
As a Florida resident we have to deal with the buggers twice a year. We just discovered a literal "miracle solution" though.
Hose off what you can of the bodies and then bunch up a couple of regular dryer sheets and get them wet. You can then just rub the bug remains off with the sheets. Use them on the windshield, mirrors and the body panels.
It even works on the dried ones, but it's better to soak them a little first.
Be sure to hose off the bug/dryer sheet residue though because when it dries it looks bad.
I have found a couple of sheets will fit onto a Swifter floor cleaning body, but the handle isn't made for a lot of rough duty. I may try to adapt the head portion to a stronger handle.
Headed to Ft Wilderness next week and the coach will be a mess.
|
Gator48
|
05/06/13 04:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Water pump cycles on
Ok all....lots to look at.
The fridge is off so not the ice maker
I will start checking more around the "water bay" for any leaks.
Several mentioned the water heater....I remembered seeing a dribble from the over pressure valve, but had forgotten it until now. That is first on the list today.
Thanks all,
Dave
|
Gator48
|
04/17/13 09:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
Water pump cycles on
2006 Itasca Horizon.
Recently the water pump has started cycling for about a second and a half every 30 minutes or so. Apparently it is sensing a slight drop in pressure or something. I have looked everywhere for a leak and can't find anything. Anyone else had this issue?
Thanks,
Dave
|
Gator48
|
04/16/13 07:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Backwards leveling controller
Sorry I omitted this, it's an HWH system.
|
Gator48
|
03/23/13 03:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
Backwards leveling controller
2006 Itasca Horizon
The controller for the levelers is backwards. The up/down buttons on the right side of the display control the left side jacks and the left side buttons control the right side jacks.
The front and rear are good. Needless to say "automatic" function is a trip!
If the right side is low the left side jacks go down first and ....Well it's kind of pucker up time as you feel like you are going to tip over.
I can stop it, and I have labled the buttons so I can level it manually but I really need to fix it.
Any ideas how??
Thanks
|
Gator48
|
03/22/13 07:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
I don't want to one of those posters who ask a question and never respond back.
So here goes. To all that responded thanks for all the great info. I ordered the new tie rod ends from my local Freightliner dealer at right at $70.00 apiece. At first I felt stumped as I could not remove the first old one. 1 day down. 2nd day I dug out an old pickle fork and ground out the center for the larger diameter tie rods. A half dozen whacks with a 5 pound sledge and it was loose. Only 3 more to go. By the end of the day I had both tie rods out, all 4 ends replaced, and back in. Tomorrow I need to go to the auto parts store to get the correct impact socket to tighten them up.
I was able to measure the exact overall length of the old assemblies and re assembled them to the same measurements. Next week its off to the dealer to have the alignment checked and adjusted if needed. My total cost including the alignment will be a tick over $500.00.
The estimates to have the work done ran from $875.00 to over $1200.00.
I am sore but satisfied.
Dave
|
Gator48
|
03/21/13 06:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: It is all ours!
We just got our title form the Credit union. Big tax bullet to bite in the form of income taxes on the tax deferred savings we used. It was well worth it to have it paid off.
|
Gator48
|
02/16/13 05:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Rvibrake system for toads
+ a million on the Ready Brake!!!
Works every time and its a no brainer to install, hitch up and disconnect. The little dash display is the hardest part as it requires a single wire to be run from the hitch to the dashboard.
|
Gator48
|
02/11/13 11:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
Ivylog
The front end is the ZF independent front suspension so it's only the 4 ends to do and the boots are not replaceable.
|
Gator48
|
02/11/13 11:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
Matt Colie
I am not the original owner. I called Freightliner to get the part numbers and he told me my VIN # did not show up as included in the tie rod end recall. He did say that the original owner had complied with the steering gear recall so that was good to know.
Freightliner said the TRE recall ended in October 2010. After that date it became the owners cost to bear.
I didn't mention this, but the reason I was checking underneath is I am chasing a wandering front end.
|
Gator48
|
02/11/13 11:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
How hard is it to pop the ends loose from the spindles?
|
Gator48
|
02/11/13 08:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
We own a 2006 Itasca Horizon with 26,000 miles on it. While under it this weekend I noticed all 4 tie rod end boots were gone or ripped open. Some research found there was a recall to replace them, but that ended in 2007.
My question for the amassed wisdom here is, has anyone on here replaced them themselves? Where did you purchase the ends, and how hard was it to replace them? The coach has the IFS not sure if it's the ZF or Neway suspension.
Is it safe to assume that if I measure the tie rods from center to center then take them apart replacing the new ones to the same measurement that the end result will be ok? Or, am I also looking at an alignment job too?
|
Gator48
|
02/11/13 07:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Residential Refer
If you are replacing a Norcold 4 door BestBuy has the Samsung RF197 Stainless on sale until COB Saturday for 1259.99 and free shipping to your door.
Just thought you might be interested
Dave
|
Gator48
|
01/04/13 01:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Adding Residential Refrigerator, what's the cost?
If you are replacing a Norcold 4 door BestBuy has the Samsung RF197 Stainless on sale until COB Saturday for 1259.99 and free shipping to your door.
Just thought you might be interested
Dave
|
Gator48
|
01/04/13 01:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Adding additional batteries and new inverter.
Your new inverter is an Inverter/Charger. That's really all you need..if your devices play nice with it.
Put it in before the electrical panel and use it as 'just another ac source' for the entire coach. Of course there are differing opinions on this subject, but, works for me. And it's so easy and simple.
I wouldn't suggest putting an inverter with a 20amp transfer switch, directly on a circuit fused only at the pedestal. That's exactly what you are doing when you install it before the main breaker. You have now limited your entire coach to the amp rating of the transfer switch and risk burning it up and being unable to get any shore power or generator to pass through it.
Also, if the current inverter is also an inverter charger, and installed where it will see the 120vac output of the new inverter charger, it will default to the charge function and attempt to charge the batteries from power obtained from the batteries originally.
This is not a good arrangement. Put the new I/C on a breaker AFTER the main breaker, and feed only those appliances you need to.
OnaQuest,
I understand what you mean
Thanks for the help.
Dave
|
Gator48
|
01/04/13 01:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Adding additional batteries and new inverter.
John,
Thanks again..We are pretty much on the same page. I will probably install the fridge and run it off the existing connection. I just really wanted to be sure I understood how I would take the next step as far as additional power goes.
Thanks again everybody
|
Gator48
|
01/04/13 01:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Adding additional batteries and new inverter.
I hope this makes sense BTW thanks for the input
Q You kinda lost me here.. you want to have 120vac input to the new inverter from the old inverter?
A I was hoping to pick up a 120 leg before my current inverter to go to the new transfer switch/inverter.
A Currently 3-12v will go to 5 or 6
Q I would not try to design a connection that would "share" the 120vac path from shore power to your main breaker panel. I would install the inverter (with transfer switch) on a circuit AFTER your main breaker.
A I could do this. I need 120VAC and 12VDC to this new inverter or another inverter and a new transfer switch. I haven't looked to see if there is a "spare" breaker on the panel.
A I haven't boondocked yet but I don't know that I won't.
I will probably initally install the new fridge on the existing batteries and inverter, but I plan on the second stage of the upgrade asap unless it works comfortably as is. If the inverter and the fridge get along on I may just add the additional batteries and spent the rest for tire pressure monitors.
This never stops does it?...$$$$$$$$
Thanks Dave
|
Gator48
|
01/03/13 07:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
Adding additional batteries and new inverter.
After some help from the brain trust here I am almost ready to change out our Norcold.
I have 2 questions regarding the additional batteries and new PSW inverter.
I will add 2 additional batteries to the house bank to total 5. My plan is to take the battery leads and "share" them with the existing inverter and the new inverter so each inverter shares the total available power. Any problem here?
Also I have chosen a Tripp-Lite RV1512UL 1500 watt inverter that has it's own on board transfer switch. I plan to share the feed going to my existing 120 panel with this new inverter so it will use 120VAC (Shore or Generator) or the 120 PSW ACV from the inverter. How do you think this will work?
Thanks again for all the help so far.
Dave
|
Gator48
|
01/03/13 09:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
