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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 709 matches.

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RE: Awning gust lock

I made one myself that uses the single bolt on the awning arm and a spring loaded pin that inserts into the hole in the end cap of the awning (where Tom showed the awning rod going).
Gjac 07/09/14 05:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: adding a transmission temp gauge on P30 chassis

When I looked into this I found that there is a test port that you can hook into, on the drivers side just above the pan. My P-30 has a 4 speed, it may be different on a 3 speed.
Gjac 07/09/14 05:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator Hunting Under Load

First thing I would do is run Sea Foam through the carb for 30 minutes. Let it sit for an hour and then run it for 15 to 30 minutes more with the Sea Foam mix. Re-adjust the choke if needed and see if that clears up the hunting. I did as Bob suggested and it helped the surging greatly. Once the smoke stopped I took a 1/2 gal of gas and mixed it with 1/2 can of Seafoam in a gas can and ran the genset for an hr under load(removed the pickup line and pumped the mixture directly from the gas can), this really smoothed things out. I now do this once a year just for general maintenance.
Gjac 07/09/14 05:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cracked Skylight

I can't tell how much water damage there is from the inside photo it is dark, but I would remove all the old caulking and the old skylight separate the laminates( rubber roof, Styrofoam, wood) and look between them to see how rotted the wood is an how far back it extends. Are the headers sound and is the area around dry? If the area is wet insert some wedges between the laminates and allow several days to dry in the sun with a tarp over the hole. A heat gun from the inside can speed up the process. Very thin epoxies are sold such as Git-Rot that will soak into the rotted wood and restore strength however you can thin any epoxy resin with some acetone to do the same thing. I would use 4 pieces of pine board on the outside and 4 on the inside held with 8 C-clamps to compress the laminates together while the resin is curing. Hope this helps. Good luck and let us know how you are doing.
Gjac 07/09/14 07:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Acceleration 0 to 60 in 30 Seconds

Whenever I make a eng mod I test my 40-60 mph times to see what the impact was. I have a 1996 GBM with a 454 TBI that weighs about 15,500 lbs Stock when I got it was 22 secs. General tuneup brought it down to 19 secs. Headers, FF muffler, and a CAI brought it down to 14 secs. Advancing the timing from 4 degrees BTC to 9 degrees brought it down to 12 secs. Stock HP was 230 at 1800 rpms not sure what it is now maybe 300 hp.
Gjac 07/09/14 07:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camp site selection

I unhook the tow car and drive through camp ground first looking for a level site where I can back in easily, next look for low hanging tree branches, and a site deep enough to back MH in and put tow car in front. I camp mostly in forest ares anyway but if not I try to have sun away from refer side if temps are over 80 degrees.
Gjac 07/08/14 08:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: jack pads for motorhome

My BIL gave me a 4'x8'x1" piece of nylon in which I cut 12"x12" pieces for the jack pads. I carry a set with me but rarely use them unless the ground is soft. I use a set in my drive way along with pads I cut for my tires to rest on.
Gjac 07/08/14 02:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replaced roof molding screws

I would run a bead of sealant along the top of the molding. I had a leak at the intersection of my roof line and front cap, I found a leak 30 ft away in the rear where water leaked into the molding and ran to the front. I am sure my screws are probably rusty also.
Gjac 07/08/14 11:42am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Microwave Repair

The MW's that I have fixed were both fixed by replacing the fusible links. They look like a std fuse but are not glass but made from a gray ceramic looking material. I think they were less than $5 at Radio Shack. It is worth trying the $5 replacement first before buying a new one.
Gjac 07/08/14 09:01am Tech Issues
RE: V-10 Radiator Reservoir

My 2005 ford V10 reservoir tank was pressurized. I believe the cap was either 14 or 16 pounds. There was no cap on the radiator itself. This makes sense. My 454 Chevy has a cap on the radiator just like all the cars that I have had in the past, and the tank is just an overflow(no pressure}
Gjac 07/01/14 04:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold flue cleaning

Thanks for the link.
Gjac 07/01/14 04:20am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold flue cleaning

RV propane repair dealer I consulted mentioned that new burner can fit older models with a modification. Since it didn't apply to me, I didn't pursue it — but you might check it out. I think the burners are the same, but the new ones use a flare attachment. That is what I was told also. If you have a flaring kit you can flare the old propane line that attaches to the new burner tube if not or if you screw up the flare you need to but a new propane line also. Right now the slider I made to adjust flame is working.
Gjac 06/30/14 09:12am Tech Issues
RE: V-10 Radiator Reservoir

That tank, btw, is pressurized. Had to replace mine from UV damage. They are not cheap....over 100 bucks. I think the OP has a gasser, I know mine is not pressurized. You can buy a universal tank replacement at Auto Zone, Napa etc for under $20.
Gjac 06/30/14 09:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Want to upgrade - Is diesel worth it?

The OP said he would like to stay in the 33 ft range. He is looking at a 31 ft gas and a 32 ft Breeze. This discussion has evolved to which is better a 31 ft gas or a 38-40 ft DP. It is no comparison. I for one would like to know how a short 33 ft DP compares with a similar size gas model. How is the ride? How is the performance with a smaller eng that comes in that size DP? If I wanted a big MH 38-40 ft I would buy a DP. In this size I think the decision is harder.
Gjac 06/30/14 06:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: V-10 Radiator Reservoir

When mine cracked I used Shoe Goo(like Goop} and reinforced it with several layers of gauze (open weave fabric). If you have FG laying around you can use that or any woven material. Just make sure the reservoir is not too brittle from the heat other wise it is better to replace it.
Gjac 06/30/14 06:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: precision parking

All you need to do is line up one side of the coach. The other side will automatically take care of itself. Decide which mirrors that you feel the most comfortable with and put a line on the floor using that mirror as the guide. When it is time to back up just follow that line with the mirror and you will be fine. The worst thing you can try to do is chase mirrors and switch from one side to the other. As long as one side is where you want it, the other side will be also without having to actually monitor it. Put some kind of block on the floor so that when your rear wheels contact it, you will know that you are as far back as you need to be. These can be attached to the floor permanently if you want. This is basically what I do in my driveway because I park on nylon pads. I use a rubber block to stop the MH from backing into my rain gutter. If I am too close to the stone wall I can't open the cargo doors and if I not back far enough I can't park my car in front of the MH. I found that I could not see the line on the ground for tire alignment so I use a mark to line up the cargo doors using the driver side mirrors. My front tires sit on a 12 in x 12 in pad and the rear duels sit on a 12 in x 18 in pad.
Gjac 06/30/14 05:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Improving fuel efficiency with heavy vehicles

"Let it lug (applies to diesel engines) " I don't think so! That's NOT the sweet spot! Maybe BIG rigs but not pickups! I have always wondered about this. Can someone more knowledgeable than myself elaborate on this. I always thought that if you were in the highest gear possible at the lowest rpm while maintaining the speed you want to travel at would be your best MPG. Is this not right? Or does this hurt the eng? No you want to operate at your maximum torque rpm. If you look at the specs on your vehicle it will list the rpm where you are at max torque. Forget horsepower, the torque is what matters. Mine is at 62 mph and that is where I stay, if I try to run 55 my transmission is constantly shifting up and down wasting fuel. My peak torque was at 1800 rpm stock(before headers} this is somewhere around 55 mph, mine will not downshift until 45 mph on a flat. So you are saying that I should get better fuel economy at 55 mph(max torque) than at 45 mph which to me is lugging the eng?
Gjac 06/30/14 05:32am General RVing Issues
RE: Replace shower pan

Looks like its smooth plastic on the bottom of the pan, I don't see any fiber cloth so I believe it's plastic not fiberglass. You have to look underneath the pan(on the backside) to see the fibers. You won't see the fibers through the gelcoat which will be smooth( think of how smooth a boat hull is). If it is a non reinforced thermoplastic and it is cracked , it probably is cracked through and is leaking on the floor. Look through your access panel with a flashlight and you can tell.
Gjac 06/30/14 05:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold flue cleaning

Unfortunately Norcold no longer makes a replacement for my burner tube. The refer is 18 years old. The slots have rusted out and I had to modify it to adjust the fuel to air ratio. But it is still working.
Gjac 06/30/14 05:06am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold flue cleaning

I have a 682 Norcold and tried removing the baffle from the top with a coat hanger. There is a return flange over the flue. You can not look down and see light at the bottom with the return flange in the way. On my friends Dometic you can. I tap on the flue with a hammer to remove loose rust and vacuum it out every year. I thing I would have to remove the refer to get at the return flange and baffle. This is my experience and will be following this thread to see if there is a trick to remove the return flange and baffle without removing the refer.
Gjac 06/29/14 01:57pm Tech Issues
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