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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 888 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 1993 Travelaire 454 chev p30 low power

I would do several things to narrow down this problem. The first thing I would find a flat stretch of Highway and do a 40-60 mpg test and post the time,if your wt is about 15,000 lbs with no mods 20 secs would be about normal and your MH would be normal, you only have 230 HP stock. The second thing is to check your computer and see if you have any stored codes,it should be an OBD1 and the service light will flash what codes are stored. If you search this forum it will give you the details on how to do this with a paper clip. Third, look at the spray pattern of the two jets in the TBI, it should be a nice cone shape with no drips, a flash light helps to see better into the throttle body. I would then check the timing should 4 degrees before TDC. Some have advanced their timing up to 12 degrees before TDC. I advanced mine to 9 and it took 2 secs off my 40- 60 mph time. When you increase the idle speed the timing marks will should advance, mine will advance if I remember correctly to about 22 degrees if it doesn't you found the problem. My distributor is electronic, your 93 may be mechanical and others have already commented on that and the cat. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Gjac 01/27/15 08:32pm Beginning RVing
RE: Improvments in sidewall constructions.

Here's a link to the Newmar page that describes their construction which might be of some interest to the OP. Newmar constructionThanks Mark, I am familiar with the Newmar, and Monaco having struggled with delam on a 96 MH I don't want to go through that again. This would be the main reason to choose a hung wall over a bonded wall especially if one could not quantify improvements made to the bonded walls.
Gjac 01/27/15 07:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass Delamination

If water gets in, you're likely to have delamination. If water doesn't get in, your chances of having delamination are basically nil. Delaminations can occur for several reasons, adhesives can be outdated(past their shelf life), the surfaces to be bonded may not be cleaned well(contaminated), dark colors absorbing sun can expand separating marginal bonds. If the pinch rolling process is used out of tolerance pieces to be bonded(low spots) produce less pressure and marginal bonds. Unless you talk to a Tech, Eng or visit each Mfg it is hard to find the information the OP is asking for.
Gjac 01/27/15 11:35am Beginning RVing
RE: Blackwoods or Seawall Campgrounds- Acadia NP

I have been to both. Seawall has some first come first serve sites and is easier to get into in the middle of the week and is closer to the ocean. Backwoods is closer to Bar Barbour and all the tourist shops. Both are nice I but prefer Seawall.
Gjac 01/27/15 11:19am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Improvments in sidewall constructions.

I guess no one has an answered to the OP? Where is oldman when you need him? This was the only response that did not answer anything. At least the others responded to the second question. Lou o5 Travel Supreme Envoy Lou, I did not mean to sound critical. But I was just surprised that that with over 360 views no one had any insight as to what improvements were made on sidewall construction if any on newer MH's.
Gjac 01/27/15 11:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: If I install Air Tabs & Solid Aero Hubcaps will I get 10 mpg

Take a toad with you. The increase in drag may cost you 1 MPG but you are now taking TWO vehicles from point A to B so your mileage essentially doubles. :B I think this is the best way to increased over all MPG, but I never see a post about this. I usually put as many miles or more on my tow car as I do on the MH. I get 8.7 MPG on the MH and 40 MPGS on the tow car. I average 23 mpg on this combination. This will be more economical than driving any large SUV or Jeep that gets 18 mps to go from point A to point B. I see no change in MH MPG when towing or not.
Gjac 01/27/15 08:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: looking for a vehicle to tow.

If you "don't want to spend a lot of money" on a tow car I assume you want to have a car that gets good gas mileage and will also be used as a daily driver so you don't have to buy a dedicated tow car. If you are thinking along this line a small manual 5 speed that weighs less than 3000 lbs would be a good choice for a gas MH. I would look a a used Corolla, Accent, Versa, Fiesta, etc. Find something you would want to use as a daily driver then check with the Dingy Towing Guide for the year vehicle you are interested in and verify that it can be flat towed. These cars will get 40 mpgs on the highway and offset the 8 mph you get on the MH.
Gjac 01/27/15 08:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: outside shower

I use a 3 gallon spray pump that is made from black plastic, originally for spraying chemicals like weed killers and fertilizer. The black plastic absorbs the heat when left in the sun and when you pump it up you can get several showers without re-pumping. I use it when I camp at the beach with no hook ups. I use it for rinsing the salt water off after swimming and sand off the feet before going into the MH. No I never used it for it original purpose.
Gjac 01/26/15 08:25pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Improvments in sidewall constructions.

I guess no one has an answered to the OP? Where is oldman when you need him?
Gjac 01/26/15 08:11pm Class A Motorhomes
Improvments in sidewall constructions.

When I first started reading on this forum 10 years ago delamination seemed to be a big problem with the MH's manufactured before 2000. I don't see many posts about newer MH's and delaminations. I have not seen any data on new materials being used other than some thermoplastic materials like Azdel for Lance campers, or new bonding processes other than pinch rolling or vacuum bonding. When I visit MFG web sites I see marketing terms rather than engineering descriptions of materials and processes used. Does any one know what improvements have been made if any to the side walls of the newer MH's in materials and processes? I also learned that Newmar and some Monaco's uses the hung wall process that can not delaminate (no laminates to begin with), are there others Mfg's that use this process?
Gjac 01/26/15 08:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Class A for us

The only advantage with the Fred was the fuel mileage. Same chassis as the gas( springs not air bags), noisier up front, less performance than the gas. A friend had one for a while and claimed 10 mpgs vs 8 mpgs for the Chevy gas. Some people liked them.
Gjac 01/26/15 07:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake pads for P30 Chassis

They are normally found if you tell them it is a 1987 P-30 truck chassis.
Gjac 01/25/15 08:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee Doorstep

What problem are you having with the steps?
Gjac 01/25/15 07:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 50% less from what you paid

It looks like I hit a nerve I am all for a dealer making a fair profit but to go after people that have to sell and low ball them just does not seem right. You should not look at it this way. On a 5 year old MH the dealer is just following the standard deprecation curve, that is not unfair. The deprecation curve works to your advantage when you buy a 5 year old MH from him. If you are concerned about loosing a lot to deprecation a 6 year old MH is already down the curve and would only lose 6% per year. This is the reason many on here say it is better to buy a quality older MH than a brand new lower quality brand new MH. Also an older well maintained and highly modified MH will hold it value better than one that is not. Once you get past 10 years or so it is all about the condition of the MH.
Gjac 01/24/15 08:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 50% less from what you paid

The depreciation curve looks like a hockey stick starting at about 20% the first year it goes to 18% 15% 12%10% 8% 6% and stays at 6% all the way out to scrap value. The knee of the curve is somewhere around 4 to 5 years then it starts to flatten out.
Gjac 01/23/15 02:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Are Our Tires REALLY that sensitive?

One of the big mistakes people make is to look at the max pressure molded into the sidewall and then use that as their inflation guide. Way too high and putting you at a much higher risk of a blow-out. My approach is to buy good quality tires (we got Toyos), weigh the rig so you can figure out the individual axle weights when you're loaded for travelling, then inflate cold tires to the pressure the manufacturers' chart tells you. TPMS will give you a heart attack if you monitor what the pressure is while going 70 on the freeway in Arizona in the summer. Check it only when the rig has been sitting overnight and don't sweat it too much. It really takes a lot of abuse to blow a tire. I worked in Boeing's landing gear group for a while, and we investigated an in-flight tire burst on a 727. It blew when the airplane was at about 12,000 ft, climbing out of Baltimore (I think). It punched an 18" diameter hole in the wheel-well pressure bulkhead and only a couple of USPS mailbags jamming in the hole prevented a disaster. It turned out the airplane had taxied two miles with a dragging brake, then accelerated for take-off at close to maximum weight, needing about 150 mph for lift-off. After the gear was retracted, the heat build-up caused the failure, which was actually an explosion of gases that had been released from the tire compounds. The failure of the tire bead suggested an explosion pressure of about 12,000 psi. That's why airlines use nitrogen. The "abuse" possible with an RV pales into insignificance. IMO, as long as you're within 15% of the pressure your weight calls for, don't sweat it. Being slightly under-inflated, based on a weigh-bridge check, is a lot better than being at the pressure shown on the tire's sidewall. BTW, even after 47 years in the US, I still have trouble not spelling it "TYRE"! Fortunately spell checker alerts me. Very interesting post Frank, but why would inflating the tires to the max sidewall pressure be more prone for a blowout then under inflation?
Gjac 01/22/15 06:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Possible Knee Pain cure

Thanks for posting your remedies for knee pain I have been struggling with knee arthritis for about 15 years now. You did not say if your pain was caused by arthritis or something else I have been stretching my hamstrings for about five years now it did not help my arthritis but it does help lower back problems I got to the point where I can touch my nose to my knee but the arthritis pain is still there. I have been using a vibration plate at the gym that I go to and you can stand on it and it will send vibrations up through your legs to your knees I figured I would try that based on your first post to see if that helps
Gjac 01/22/15 06:22pm RVing with Disabilities and General Health Issues
RE: Auto battery problem

I would disconnect the negative cable and put your multimeter on amps the leads between the post and cable and see what the parasitic draw is. On my motorhome starting battery it is .4amps just to give you an idea. When I started to trouble shoot this I had a 4 amp draw until I found the problem. 4 amps drew my battery down quickly.
Gjac 01/22/15 05:43pm General RVing Issues
RE: Who's Looking Out for Our Interests?

"It is a Call to the RV PRESS to step forward and become more like the Automotive press and Criticize bad quality, design and questionable products when they see them...ie Take More responsibility." Having freelanced in the RV media for years, and written for Motorhome, Trailer Life, FMCA, and plenty of regionals, I can say, sure, there's plenty of financial incentive not to "bad mouth," the advertiser. But as others have commented, it's difficult to get a handle on poor quality -- other than really obvious poor quality -- until some time of bouncing down the road with your unit. Yes, I hear complaints about this rig or that, but oftentimes, the problem is again, subjective, not objective. If you pick up a copy of Consumer Reports that goes back and evaluates autos from a historical perspective, they base their ratings on a wealth of (hopefully) quantified data, something you can sink your teeth into. If the press had that intestinal fortitude to report on the no-goodnicks, they'd still need to have solid facts to work from. The poster who suggested a genuine, ongoing survey, may be on to something. But then, there'd need to be an independent, non-advertiser-driven medium to put out the information. Consumer Reports appeals to a wide audience, is the niche market of RVers enough to really financially support something like it? Since I'm on the editorial side, rather than the dollars and cents, I couldn't comment. Wish there really was a clear-cut answer to this ages old, and frustrating issue. You make some good points. But bad quality is not hard to spot. For instance if the magazine took an editorial stand that every trailer should be equipped with a minimum of Shock Absorbers, an enclosed underbody,and a battery of sufficient size,(these are just examples) Then everytime they did a test on a new product that didnt come up to those simple standards they would call them on it and ask the factory for a comment to be included in the test...Watch how fast then these items would make it into the next production run. And of course there are many other issues of quality but IMO they are pretty easy to spot. And how about a series of articles on the build quality of some of the major brands? With factory tours and photos? It would give the quality builders a boost and would encourage the others to step up. What about some real world testing of stopping distances, real weight vs factory weight, etc etc. These are all things the RV press could start doing immediately in their product tests and accompanying articles. But I believe they live in fear. And they need a push from the RV'ing public to get them to step up and do some real testing and real reviews.. These are very good points. Maybe a way to accomplish this is a section of this fourm called RV Reviews would be needed where owners could post this data along with problems they are having with their units. Mpg, 40-60mph times, wts, handling,etc are not easily found on the mfg web sites. This info is even harder to find on used units.
Gjac 01/22/15 05:23pm General RVing Issues
RE: Water Transfer

I use a folding table that sits higher than the water inlet and use a a syphon hose. I only do 5 gallons at a time...I'd need a heck of a tall table, my gravity fill is chest high on my MH.I fill mine from the overflow hose which is at the bottom of my freshwater tank
Gjac 01/22/15 04:58pm General RVing Issues
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