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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 692 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Large pass thru in rear or MH

Not sure what you mean by full basement storage. My ACE has the passthrough and several basement storage bins. Some are very large, a few have utilities and LP.. By full basement storage I mean that the doors either open sideways or up and go across the whole lower section. The basement doors abut each other with about an 1/8 in gap in between. I have this now on my current MH with 2 pass trus. I am trying to find a MH with both types of storage . What I described as full basement and one with the large pass tru in the rear that goes under the bed. That rear pass tru looks to be about 3x3 ft.
Gjac 10/25/16 09:44pm Class A Motorhomes
Large pass thru in rear or MH

I have noticed several MH's with a large pass tru bay in the rear of MH that goes under the bed. It looks large enough to store 2 bikes in there. The Vista, Ace, Mirada and some others have this rear storage however they lack the full basement storage and have the small cutout doors like on Class C's. The only model that I have seen is the Damon Daybreak that has this rear storage and the full basement storage on some of their models. Does anyone know of any other MH's that has both?
Gjac 10/25/16 02:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Alternatives to luan?

I would use the cheapest material that I could find in the right thickness that you need. I have a piece of white Unreinforced Thermoplastic sheet that I have used for minor repairs. I don't know why the outer layer of luan is used to begin with. A thicker FG skin would be stronger, more durable and would not rot like the luan. There are a lot of high density foams available but would be an overkill.
Gjac 10/22/16 06:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice needed on delamination repair

Gorrilla glue is difficult to work with because of the swelling and the stickieness- but if fill voids to completely support panels. It will make a mess if not clamped/restrained properly (also so the clamps do not stick) But it is waterproof when dried and the correct adheasive for this application in my opinion and from my actual experience. Before I used it I contacted Gorrilla Glue company and they said the glue will last longer then the substrates I was using. Gorilla glue or any of the polyurethane glues are messy to work with at least for me. Epoxies provide a stronger bond. The problem with these type of repairs is that if the delamination is caused by water intrusion the moisture is likely to be still be under the laminate and not many adhesives adhere well to wet surfaces. Polyurethane glues will react to the moisture and foam up making a mess when they expand and lose some of their bond strength but still be stronger than the substrate they are bonding to. Solvents like Mek or Acetone can help to remove some of this moisture before bonding. They will absorb the moisture then flash off quickly. If you can remove the outer skin like Joe showed and know the substrate is dry I would use an epoxy if you are doing a local repair like under a window that leaked and it is wet or moist underneath I would use a polyurethane. I did not remove the outer skin and used the side of a brick building to retract the pressure using car jacks. The lessen I learned was to use the leveling jacks on the MH first before applying pressure with the car jacks.
Gjac 10/22/16 08:44am Tech Issues
RE: biscuits in a q1200?

With no open or charcoal fires allowed, I use my Coleman 2 burner gas stove with a rectangular griddle than fits over both burners and a large frying pan top to cover the biscuits, pizza, or other breads that I cook on it. Heat is easier to control than using charcoal or an open flame fire. When open fires are allowed I prefer to cook meat over them using oaks blocks.
Gjac 10/22/16 08:02am Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: 2 burner gas stove recommendations

I have always used the Coleman gas stove either dual fuel with the gray tank or Coleman fuel with the red tank. I found I can used reg gas in the red tank. The generator needs to be cleaned every so often so it does not flame up when lighting. It will boil water quicker than my propane stove inside.
Gjac 10/22/16 07:49am Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: The perfect RV

Part of me wants to treat another RV purchase like a gov't purchase bid -- give a list of must have spec's to a few dealers and tell 'em to call me with the price when they find one that meets those spec's. I have browsed around a bunch of custom mfr's sites and it sure seems like they really cater to full timers / large units, but I did see some info that I will research more. I'd like to stay with something no longer than our current TT / TV setup, even though I know we may end up getting a new TV (truck) and going for a 5th wheel. A few feet longer over the bed could still be under our current OAL. Grand Design and Jayco units seem to be in the top 10 units we see that fit our most important wants / needs. I have done this with 4 different dealers but never heard back from any of them. They just want to sell you what the have on their lot.
Gjac 10/22/16 07:19am General RVing Issues
RE: Water heater question

Yes I burned out mine, pieces were left in the bottom of the tank that had to be removed so I just use propane now.
Gjac 10/22/16 07:11am General RVing Issues
RE: Dang! Ran my 6v batteries dead............

"When I say flat, I mean it registered no voltage at all on a digital read out." Was the digital read out from a meter inside the MH or from a volt meter on the posts of the battery itself? If from the inside you may have corroded connections going to the meter which may also be the reason the batteries won't charge properly. If at the battery posts as others have said the battery is bad.
Gjac 10/21/16 09:57am Tech Issues
RE: Wood hole - Water damage

I would remove some of the rotted wood to see if any mold is in it. If no mold i would vacuum out any loose wood and use a thinned epoxy and fill the hole. The epoxy can be thinned with acetone or you can use an off the shelf product like water glass or git rot as bumpy has mentioned. You want the resin to flow into any separated layers or wood, that is why you want to thin it with a solvent. The solvent will flash of quickly during the curing process. Once dry you can cover it with caulk or tape. If you have mold or the damage is greater than you described, the repair would be different. Let us know want you find.
Gjac 10/21/16 09:40am Tech Issues
RE: Buy Class C with Delamination if price is right?

Wow, thanks for all the replies. I think we'll keep looking. CA Traveler - I read somewhere about mounting boards against the ground at 35 degree angles but how are they staying tight against the ground?There are cargo straps on each angled support that are connected to the suspension and cause them to flex and apply pressure to the vertical portion. Some of those angled support boards are long and made up of 2 2x4s so that they don't flex to much. I used the side of a brick building and car jacks to apply pressure when I did mine.
Gjac 10/20/16 12:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Rubber Roof

My roof is 20 years old. I applied a gallon of Kool Seal that a friend gave me because he bought a new MH and it looked good for about 6 years. It is wearing away and I can start to see the original EPDM roof underneath. In contrast my friend has the same year roof but never coated it and his roof is completely black because all the white outer surface has worn off. Neither roofs leak as long as you check and recaulk or use the Eternabond tape. I just think a white roof keeps the MH cooler in the summer. I would coat it now if the outer layer of rubber has started to slough off.
Gjac 10/19/16 08:55am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buy Class C with Delamination if price is right?

I would pass on this one because the owner wants way more than the nada price but if you can find one that is discounted from nada and the areas are small and right next to a seam or window I would buy it and rebond the outer skin. Delamination on around widows are easier to fix once the window is out ,you have to remove it anyways to reseal it. C clamps and caul plates can be used it apply pressure for the adhesive bond. I would walk away from large side wall delaminations. That would likely have a lot of rot underneath and would require removing the rotted section. Some members on here have done that and I give them a lot of credit for tackling the project. You can search their post to see it that is something that you want to do.
Gjac 10/19/16 08:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Wiper blades

If yours are only 18 mos old and the rubber is not ripped I would try cleaning the rubber with 400 grit sand paper then wiping them with silicone spray. It just removes the outer layer of dry rubber that causes the streaks.
Gjac 10/19/16 04:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Marcus Lemonis speaks out

I think this guy really understands the business better than most of us. Most of us don't no what we are buying, usually buy with borrowed money, and not understanding the product and afraid of downstream problems buy extended warranties. By selling parts he just tacks on a profit margin and there is no warranty risks like a new MH. We all needs parts that fail. Most are growing older or lack the technical abilities,agility or will to do our own work and need someone else to install these parts and make repairs. It is not hard to see the money to be made in the aftermarket segment including extended warranties, financing, parts and labor. I think the days of the Henry Ford business model is long gone.
Gjac 10/18/16 08:44am General RVing Issues
RE: Radiator heater hose to hot water tank?

I think for a older gas MH this was a great idea not only to heat the water tank but also to remove engine heat. The 454's and 460's generate a lot of heat and this "motor aid" system acts like another radiator.
Gjac 10/18/16 06:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Catalytic converter

I just put mine back on over the summer. The clamps were badly rusted so they just snapped off even though I used PB blaster so I just put new ones on. Not a real hard job.
Gjac 10/17/16 09:42pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Avast preventing logon of RV.Net

First: You said "AVAST" in the title and McAffee in the subject. As was mentioned you can white list RV.Net.. Avast however has never caused me that problem, Nor has any of the other assorted anti-virals I use, though there is one I do not think I've ever tried here. What can happen: IN the past I have had this with SOME sites (not this one) sites are ad-supported, some times they subscribe to an ad service (this service pays them so much per visit to allow the service, often Google Ads, to put up ads on the site) Some of those ads may be links to malicious sites. Some Anti-Viral products will then identify the site as an "Attack Site" Avast does this.. Takes a wile for the site owner to identify the offending ads, Notify the ad service, and the ad service to take action to block that advertiser. I said in my op that I swiched from Mcafee to Avast and got this warning. I never got the warning from Mcafee so I assume Avast was giving me the warning.Then oldman suggested trying trailer life instead which worked fine!also RV.net worked fine using google chrome . If you read my last post I narrowed the problem down to the desk top icon. Which was not a problem with Avast but rather with the windows icon. After switching to a chrome desktop icon it worked fine with no warning.
Gjac 10/16/16 10:01pm Technology Corner
RE: shower tub puzzle

You quite welcome. I notice this same problem with my entry door if I am out of level. I have seen my friends windshield crack when his wife leveled it wrong. So these structures do twist over the length of the MH.
Gjac 10/15/16 06:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Avast preventing logon of RV.Net

I ended up deleting the old desktop icon and dragging a new one from the google search function onto my desktop and it works fine now. I still don't know what caused the problem in the first place. Thanks for your suggestions.
Gjac 10/15/16 05:56pm Technology Corner
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