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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 890 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Is 360 hp enough for for 38-40 ft class A

Any Mh will climb a hill fine some slower than others so the question is all relative. Relative to a small 5 wheel that weighs 15,000 lbs with a 350 hp eng it will be slower up a hill if the MH has 360 hp and weighs 30,000 lbs or more.
Gjac 10/20/14 11:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Annual Maintenance: Gasser vs Diesel Pusher

Another research question. What are the annual maintenance requirements and costs for your coach, be it gas or diesel powered? Also, do you perform the work yourself or have it performed by someone else? We mainly want to know about the chassis/engine portion of the coach. We have a 5th Wheel and know about the "house" portion and those annual requirements. Thanks again everyone! John It depends on what you want to include in "maintanance and costs". If I include mods and improvements as well as every dime spent to repair and maintain, it comes to $1200/year over 10 years. General maintenance if nothing breaks is less than $100/year. I do most of the work myself except for heavy chassis work like headers, suspension and front end work. House work like refer,HWH,levelers,etc and general chassis work like fluid changes, tuneups, eng timing etc I have done myself. To travel in the MH I average $70-$100/day depending on gas prices.
Gjac 10/20/14 11:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: The Workhorse Isn't

May want to check the lower radiator hose. I had one once that ran fine until the engine was under heavy load, The lower hose was collapsing from the suction from the water pump and closing off any coolant from circulating. I see this gets posted a lot. How did you check for a collapsed lower hose, at idle or at a certain rpm in park?
Gjac 10/18/14 06:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fun / Projects / with my 1997 America Dream

Do you use synthetic oil in it? My Kohlar genset started leaking when I switched to synthetic oil. I cannot find the leak. I switched back to reg oil and the leak is slowing down a bit. I am hoping a few more oil changes will seal it up. I don't want to pull it either. I don't know if anyone has tried one of the stop leak additives with any success?
Gjac 10/15/14 05:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shock Absorbers

How much does your MH weigh? From what I was told by a chassis shop that does a lot of MH's is the Bilsteins and Koni's were good for heavier MH's,he talked me out of these because my MH weighed 15,500 lbs. I was happy with the ride of the Monroe shocks.
Gjac 10/14/14 06:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dry Camping: Many Power Solutions. What about Waste/Water?

This is a very good question. I always run out of FW before I run out of battery power. What I find is after 7 days I run out of clothes also so I need to do laundry. More specifically my wife runs out of clothes, I have "universal shorts" that I hike, bike, swim and fish in and can go much longer in warm weather. However after 7 days batteries are at 50%SOC, FW is about empty and clothes need to be washed anyways, so we go to a FHU CG with a laundry mat and dump, fill, recharge batteries, wash clothes and bedding. So water and laundry need to be solved before I worry about batteries or solar.
Gjac 10/13/14 07:37am Tech Issues
RE: Grumble Gripe Snivel Wal-Mart Maxx Battery

I had a Maxx Everstart battery for my toad that failed at almost 3 years old. I returned it to Walmart and they gave me a free one same kind but with a 5 year warranty because they no longer sold the original battery. This was not without some hassle and finally talking to the store manager. It says right on the battery free replacement if it fails during the warranty period.
Gjac 10/12/14 11:34am Tech Issues
RE: Interesting Problem and Solution with Fridge

The contacts that come from the control module on the front of the refer going to the control board. There is a plug that slides off of the control board and you can see the contacts.
Gjac 10/12/14 06:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: A vs C HELP

The previous posters all gave you good advice. The reasons that swayed me away from the C to an A were better suspension(more HD chassis), more storage(full basement rather than the small cutout doors),larger FW tanks,more living space inside. For the type of camping that you described I think a 32-34 ft Class A is ideal.
Gjac 10/11/14 07:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Interesting Problem and Solution with Fridge

Spray your old one with some contact cleaner...available from Home Depot for about 5 bucks, and I'd bet it would give you many more years of service.....the contacts get dirty....DennisThis is what I did when mine would not switch over. I cleaned it first with a pencil eraser then sprayed with the contact cleaner.
Gjac 10/11/14 07:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Over Priced Used Motorhomes.

After looking at dozens of motorhomes over the course of a couple of years there's is a ton of junk out there. You can go broke flying out from here to there looking at coaches. Thanks to the members on this site and irv2 that happened to be or live in the area of some of the coaches I was interisted in and took a quick look at them for me and gave their opinions. When I saw the coach that I did purchase I didn't mind spending a few grand more for it just because of the condition it was in. As long as your happy with the purchase who cares. This is the same conclusion that I have come to. What I want to buy has to be better than what I have now. Defining better to you I think is important. Better performance,handling,storage,CCC etc. If you can list what is important to you, then be prepared to spent a few more thousand dollars when you find most of them in one MH.
Gjac 10/11/14 07:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberclass clearcoat help.Sandpaper

I have used 400, 600, and 800 grit to remove highly oxidized gel coat and stained gelcoat, then used the buffing wheel and compound to remove the sand paper marks. On my older MH the caps have maybe .020 of gelcoat but the sides are much thinner, so you don't want to burn through with the wheel. To me sanding is safer because its by hand and you can see and feel what you are doing. I would try dry sanding if the wet sanding does not take enough off.
Gjac 10/10/14 09:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is killing batteries three times too much?

After reading up on sulfate on and what kills lead acid batteries, I have learned some things. Firstly, I have been backwards on my charging routine. I always charge them just before I leave when I should be charging them as soon as I get home. Secondly, the converter/charger in my new RV is not going to be the best way of keeping them healthy. Finally, I should be able to extend the life of my current batteries by performing a desulfation procedure. For the last option, I can buy the Black and Decker charger identified above which has some nice automatic features. I can make my own desulfation which may/may not work and may/may not burn down my house. Finally, I can buy the BatteryMINDER 12248 which probably won't do as well in recovering my current batteries as the B & D unit, but with the smaller form factor, I can install it in the camper permanently. Still not sure which option I will take. I haven't stated a good fire in a while. I think the most cost effective option is to buy the B&D 40 amp charger use it with your Genset to recharge when dry camping. When you get home plug in you single stage charger to top of and maintain the batteries untill your next trip. This way you have two chargers. Also what I have found is that my single stage charger will give a more complete charge once the smart charger says full. I know I can get several more days of camping if I use the single stage charger to float the batteries for a couple of days before camping. The 1093 regular charge to FUL gets you to about 97% SOC. To get to 100% you need to run the Equalize right after that first FUL till it says FUL again. It might even take a second run of Equalize. Then put the bank on the single stage converter to float. To know if you got to 100% you wait for three days after being on float after that equalizing and then check your SG. See that explained here at the very end of this article http://www.engineersedge.com/battery/specific_gravity_battery.htm Are you saying that the single charger float for several days won't get it to 100%? Or that the equalize function provides for a more aggressive charge prevention plate sulfation? I never knew how many times a year to use the equalize function thinking it was shortening the plate life.
Gjac 10/10/14 07:10am Tech Issues
RE: Is killing batteries three times too much?

After reading up on sulfate on and what kills lead acid batteries, I have learned some things. Firstly, I have been backwards on my charging routine. I always charge them just before I leave when I should be charging them as soon as I get home. Secondly, the converter/charger in my new RV is not going to be the best way of keeping them healthy. Finally, I should be able to extend the life of my current batteries by performing a desulfation procedure. For the last option, I can buy the Black and Decker charger identified above which has some nice automatic features. I can make my own desulfation which may/may not work and may/may not burn down my house. Finally, I can buy the BatteryMINDER 12248 which probably won't do as well in recovering my current batteries as the B & D unit, but with the smaller form factor, I can install it in the camper permanently. Still not sure which option I will take. I haven't stated a good fire in a while. I think the most cost effective option is to buy the B&D 40 amp charger use it with your Genset to recharge when dry camping. When you get home plug in you single stage charger to top of and maintain the batteries untill your next trip. This way you have two chargers. Also what I have found is that my single stage charger will give a more complete charge once the smart charger says full. I know I can get several more days of camping if I use the single stage charger to float the batteries for a couple of days before camping.
Gjac 10/09/14 08:09am Tech Issues
RE: Diesel vs gas for Class A....also length of RV....

LOL! Some of these RVer's that are saying a gasoline coach is just as good as a diesel pusher do not know what they are talking about. They should take a drive on a diesel pusher and they would never go back to a gasoline coach. Now if they do not want to spend that kind of money, that is a different story. But to say that a gasoline motorhome rides just as good is insane. Gasoline motorhomes are OK, but not comparison to a diesel pusher. SORRY! A gasoline engine once it starts hitting 100K it is already in the twilight of being a good engine, while a diesel is just barely getting broke in. ^^^^^ THAT I'm with you. We've owned a 2008 gasser and now a 2010 DP. No comparison in ride or pulling power. We now have our second DP on order (2015 Newmar Ventana 4037). We are getting almost twice the fuel mileage with the DP. The CC of our DP on order is 11,300 lbs!!! The slide out, fully pass through storage bays will be a delight on my old back and I won't miss whacking my head on the bottom of an open slide loading or unloading. The ride is heavenly due to the air suspension, engine heat and noise in the back and huge increase in torque. We could tow anything, rather than being limited to the 5,000 lbs of a gasser. We do not FT. We like to say that with the DP, we feel like we are on vacation the second we sit in the drivers seat with the DP. The Gasser was always a hot, noisy chore to get somewhere. Since we vacation within 500 miles from home, we never have to stop for fuel with the DP. Fill it up at home and again when we get back home. When parked, we are not 3 feet in the air since the bags drop before the levelers are down. No way would I ever get a Ford V10 based gasser again. If I ever decided i wanted something smaller, I'd get a Mercedes based diesel Sprinter model. That is a true "alternative" to a DP. A 35-40ft Class A gasser is a "compromise". What did your gas MH weigh vs the weight of your 34y DP? What HP do you have in the DP? What was the MPG of each? Assuming your gas MH was a 362 HP ford how did the performance compare with your DP? I am not sure if this was for my post or the other, but the gasoline motorhome I had was a 36' F-53 chassis with the V-10 engine weighed I believe 19K lbs. I would get 8-9 mpg. Good engine, bad transmission. The diesel pusher I bought after that has the Caterpillar engine, I get 8 mpg average. The coach is 38'long and weigh's 30K lbs. It has a six speed Allison transmission. Very good coach. Have now 60K miles on it and it is running better now then ever. Lots of power going up long grades. Ray it was actually for the other one. I found it hard to understand that a vehicle that weight 14,000 lbs with 362 HP would have less performance and 1/2 the mpgs of one that weighed 27,000 lbs and only 340 HP. Your numbers look very normal.
Gjac 10/09/14 07:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Will that ladder and roof hold a 300-pounder?

I don't know how you can maintain your roof without climbing the ladder and walking or crawling on top. I would do several things first. Test the ladder on the bottom rung by standing on it and bouncing slightly on it. If it looks like too much flex and feels unsafe to you I would put a brace from the ground to the bottom step made from wood that would eliminated the vertical load on the ladder attach points. Once on top if you crawl on all 4's you would spread the weight over a larger surface area. Also several shts of plywood can be placed where you need to work or inspect to help distribute the load. Good luck and let us know how you make out or at least post a Youtube video.
Gjac 10/09/14 07:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: FIRST TIME RV-ER QUESTIONS

Remember that the purchase price of an old MH is just a down payment on future expenses. If you are not already very mechanically inclined, that education will also be expensive. This is very true. Just to give you my experience I bought an older MH in 2004 and paid $30k for it to see if I liked the life style and to learn about MH's. I liked the lifestyle and learned a lot fixing all kinds of problems. I spent another $5000 to fix and repair things like exhaust manifold leaks, front end repairs, chassis repairs etc and another $5000 in maintenance, eng,trans,rear end,fluid changes etc over 10 years. If you have free electric while at your friends place, it will probably take you a year to fix and repair an older MH to your liking. Electric heaters will kept the MH warm enough to work on it. I would buy one now stay in your apt while you are working on it through the cold winter mo's. Plan on moving into it in March live in it for a while to get all the house stuff working. Then embark on your trip. By then your biggest expense will be gas. Being disabled you can get 50% off of Govt CG's which will be about $5-$10/ night. Travel north in the summer and south during the winter and stay out of expensive FHU CG's except once a week to recharge your batteries,dump and fill, and do laundry. I would encourage you to pursue your dream but just understand the costs and what to expect before you start. Other posters already answered your detail questions the only thing I would repeat is to try to get a campsite host job at a Govt or state CG where the give you a camp site and a small stipend for your word. Even if the costs turned out the same this would be better than living in an apt and watching TV all day. It cost me between $70-100 per day to travel in the MH and I move a lot. If your stay a week in one spot it will be less per day. Good Luck to you.
Gjac 10/08/14 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel vs gas for Class A....also length of RV....

LOL! Some of these RVer's that are saying a gasoline coach is just as good as a diesel pusher do not know what they are talking about. They should take a drive on a diesel pusher and they would never go back to a gasoline coach. Now if they do not want to spend that kind of money, that is a different story. But to say that a gasoline motorhome rides just as good is insane. Gasoline motorhomes are OK, but not comparison to a diesel pusher. SORRY! A gasoline engine once it starts hitting 100K it is already in the twilight of being a good engine, while a diesel is just barely getting broke in. ^^^^^ THAT I'm with you. We've owned a 2008 gasser and now a 2010 DP. No comparison in ride or pulling power. We now have our second DP on order (2015 Newmar Ventana 4037). We are getting almost twice the fuel mileage with the DP. The CC of our DP on order is 11,300 lbs!!! The slide out, fully pass through storage bays will be a delight on my old back and I won't miss whacking my head on the bottom of an open slide loading or unloading. The ride is heavenly due to the air suspension, engine heat and noise in the back and huge increase in torque. We could tow anything, rather than being limited to the 5,000 lbs of a gasser. We do not FT. We like to say that with the DP, we feel like we are on vacation the second we sit in the drivers seat with the DP. The Gasser was always a hot, noisy chore to get somewhere. Since we vacation within 500 miles from home, we never have to stop for fuel with the DP. Fill it up at home and again when we get back home. When parked, we are not 3 feet in the air since the bags drop before the levelers are down. No way would I ever get a Ford V10 based gasser again. If I ever decided i wanted something smaller, I'd get a Mercedes based diesel Sprinter model. That is a true "alternative" to a DP. A 35-40ft Class A gasser is a "compromise". What did your gas MH weigh vs the weight of your 34y DP? What HP do you have in the DP? What was the MPG of each? Assuming your gas MH was a 362 HP ford how did the performance compare with your DP?
Gjac 10/08/14 08:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: time to change the hoses?

I have a 1996 P-30. Changed the serpentine belt at about 70k{starting to separate. Change trans fluid 3 times,brake fluid 3 times, and rear end fluid 3 times. MH has 100k miles on it. Inspect hoses yearly. Every 2-3 years I flush and drain the radiator. I remove the lower hose and drain and flush with a garden hose(with thermostat removed) look inside for any deterioration. My thought is when the lower hose looks bad I will change them all.
Gjac 10/07/14 08:53am Tech Issues
RE: slight water damage on floor please help

I would pull back the covering to look at the damage if you can't poke a screwdriver through the soft spot, I would take an epoxy resin mixed with acetone to thin the mixture to almost a water viscosity, then pour it on the area that is soft and let it fully absorb. The acetone will flash of quickly and stiffen the soft area. If the damage is more severe you may have to replace that section of rotted floor. As others have implied the soft spot might be just the floor covering left with the wood underneath rotted away. Can you get to the corner to pull the floor covering back to look at it?
Gjac 10/06/14 03:19pm General RVing Issues
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