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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 575 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Lost transmission dip stick...

My tube is curved and there is a lot of friction to pull it out in my case a magnet would not work. If you have a straight run with no friction you have a chance.
Gjac 02/22/17 02:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Curbside or Streetside Kitchen?

More important to me is that the refer is not in the slide because of the added fans needed to vent the cooling units. If you dry camp a lot these use battery power. Is that because they have to vent out the side instead of up through the roof? Yes, you get a better vent/air flow straight up.
Gjac 02/20/17 09:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hand Held Air inflators

I would just drive it to a gas station to top it off. I have a large compressor at home to top off the tires but when I travel I carry a cheap portable and plug kit in case of a flat. In 12 years I used it once on the MH tire and once on the tow car. I found the portable allowed me to fill the tire enough to drive to a gas station and top it off to the correct pressure after I pick up a screw. They work good at lower pressures and short times but are easily destroyed by the time that it takes to achieve the higher pressures.
Gjac 02/20/17 10:35am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood water heater not working with lp

This happened to me last year. It turned out to be the wire from my on off switch on the hood over the stove to the WH. You can take the two wires of of the switch and connect them together to see if you get 12v to the WH eliminating the switch as the problem. I found it impossible to trace the wires from the switch inside to the WH to replace so I ended up tapping into a 12v source from the 12v power supply in the rear and installing new wiring and switch. Good luck to you.
Gjac 02/20/17 10:19am Tech Issues
RE: Curbside or Streetside Kitchen?

I hear what you are saying, my dinette is on the passenger side with a large window and can look out into the camping area. The sink and stove on the drivers side. I don't see many newer MH's in the 30 -34 ft range with this layout. Most of the ones I am looking at are reversed. More important to me is that the refer is not in the slide because of the added fans needed to vent the cooling units. If you dry camp a lot these use battery power.
Gjac 02/20/17 09:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass roofs

Each material has its advantages and disadvantages. As a young Eng It saw a lot of impact tests on FG structures. We used to drop 1/2 ball bearings from 20 ft and measure the damage to the surrounding structure. What was observed was a halo of cracked resin around each impact site. On .030 panels these would allow water to enter into the substructure. Without getting too technical if you dropped enough balls you could end up with a severely damaged structure. I flew into Texas one time and tried to rent a car and most were severely damaged by hail stones. I think this is what Doug was eluding earlier. Rubber or TPO would resist impact much better. I think the thermoplastic materials like the TPO are a good compromise between the high strength FG and the rubber that can be torn by tree branches. Having said all that I would not let roof material be a determining factor of the next MH I buy. My EPDM roof is 20 years old and has been patched in several places but does not leak. I just looked at two 2009 MHs with a one piece FG roof and the caulking was not maintained and there was leakage and a lot of water damage.
Gjac 02/20/17 09:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Some fun We did this about 10 years ago on this forum

6 pages and no one mentioned Alaska. Kenai CG at Homer spit when the Silver Salmon are running.
Gjac 02/20/17 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: melting temperature of waste tanks

I think your idea is a good one and you will not overly soften the tank . I assume you won't turn it on until the temps drop to 32F or less and that the 166F that you measured was directly on the inside face of the heater(that would interface with the tank). In that cold temp there would be a lot of heat loss getting to the inside of the tank so you won't see 166 F inside the tank. I would lay a 1/4 in piece of any plastic on top of the heater like a plastic bowl with water inside it at the temperature you would use the heater and them measure the temp inside the bowl to assure yourself you won't soften the plastic tank too much. Good luck with your project.
Gjac 02/19/17 07:46am Tech Issues
RE: Nut and Bolt or Self Tapping Screw?

To answer your question about strength neither a self tapping screw or bolt of the same dia will affect the strength as long as the edge distance is at least 2D. For a .25 dia hole the hole should be drilled .5 ins from the edge of from and angle. I would use a bolt and nut or something like a Huck or Hi-lock bolt.
Gjac 02/19/17 07:12am Tech Issues
RE: How to remove wedged or shanked bolt

I have had good luck soaking rusted bolts with a mixture of transmission fluid and gas about 50-50 mix. I would try soaking overnight then try a breaker bar with a 6 point socket on the head, on the threaded portion put a nut on the end to protect the threads, then tap on the nut with a hammer while torquing the head with the btreaker bar. It will come off.
Gjac 02/18/17 07:25am Tech Issues
RE: Cost of a motor home; any class

I guess we all think differently about MH costs. The real question is how much is to much? Which no one really addressed because this is very subjective. I have tracked all my costs since I bought the MH 12 years ago. I spent 16 cents/mile for repairs, mods and maintenance. 18 cents/mile for depreciation and an average of $85/day for trips. I have traveled over 80,000 miles from Fla to Alaska over the last 12 years and can't imagine doing this for less than $85/day, the hotel alone would be more than that. So I have concluded that a MH is a cost effective way to travel based on buying a used MH, doing most of the repair and maintenance work my self, and having the time and health to use it. If you buy new, use it less than 8 weeks a year, take it to an RV shop every time something needs repair or maintenance, then I agree with others that say it makes no economic sense to own a MH.
Gjac 02/17/17 10:42am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Moss removal

I used bleach and water to get rid of mine. The moss will actually grow under the shingles and lift them up and is difficult to remove. The bleach will kill the moss and after several hrs of soaking the area it can be removed with a strong stream from your garden hose.
Gjac 02/17/17 09:27am General RVing Issues
RE: Camping off-grid & batteries/propane/solar

Oh, fresh, grey, and black are around 26, 25, and 25 gallons respectively.. Water will be your limiting factor not battery power. If you are new to dry camping you will be hard pressed to camp for 3 days will 26 gals of FW. I would be looking at how to carry more water either in an aux tank or portable containers. Then depending on where you camp can you dump grey water?
Gjac 02/16/17 07:30am Travel Trailers
RE: Camping off-grid & batteries/propane/solar

With 2 6 V GC batteries and minimal usage I would worry more about fresh water. How many gals of FW do you have? Can you get FW nearby? You can last a week easy on battery power but with a 20-40 gal FW tank you will be hard pressed if you and your wife want to tank showers every day.
Gjac 02/15/17 08:53pm Travel Trailers
RE: Ford Transmission

I would drop the pan and drain the fluid, check the magnet on the bottom of the pan for, material buildup(don't be surprised at the stuff stuck to the magnet), change filter and reassemble pan bolts. You would be better off using the OEM gasket rather than the new rubber gasket from the kit from Autozone or wherever you buy the kit, I have had these rubber ones leak. The OEM gasket that came with mine has steel bushings around each hole for the pan bolts. Once you fill the pan if you disconnect the input hose to the oil cooler and start the engine it will pump out the rest of the old fluid from the TC while you add new fluid to the filler tube. When you see the new fluid coming out red you know you have all the old fluid out. I use white tissue paper with new fluid on it to use as a guide. Each fluid change I saw less stuff on the magnet. I have changed mine 3 times,every 30,000 miles. Knowing what I know now I would have put an extra magnet in the bottom of the pan to pick up more of the magnetic wear particles.
Gjac 02/15/17 01:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Off road ??

If you are going to buy a 30 ft MH I am assuming that the A or C will be on gas chassis, if that is the case in general the A will have better GC and a more HD suspension.
Gjac 02/09/17 09:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Campground Reservations

When I went to Alaska in 2006 from Ct. for 3 mos I made no reservations even though I planned the trip and all the stops. What I found is that once we started hitting the NP's some we really liked and stayed a few more days, like RMNP, YNP and Glacier NP. The trip through BC Banff, Jasper, Muncho Lake and Kualane NP in the Yukon all required additional days. The trip up to Alaska was just as nice as Alaska itself. A lot depends on how you like to camp and what you like to do. I like to fish and camp in more remote areas either by a stream, or lake. Some of the best camp sites were the pull offs or NF CG's. If you want FHU's you may have to make reservations on the WE's or holidays. Have fun on your trip
Gjac 02/09/17 10:34am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: McMansions On Wheels, Have We Gone To Far

Last year I looked at some Prevost conversions at Liberty Coach while wintering in Fla. I had to take my shoes off when I entered each model. Some were less gaudy than others, but I asked myself what would I do with this type of coach. I could not take it to the type of campgrounds that I wanted and would be limited to RV resort type CG's. I bought a MH to travel to remote areas to fish, bike, hike etc. I would rather go to a 5 star hotel on occasion than sit in a RV resort each night. I know peoples camping styles are all different and change as we age but a McMansion is not my style.
Gjac 02/07/17 08:59am General RVing Issues
RE: Bent Main Frame Rail Behind Slide - (Picture Heavy)

From your photos it looks like that C channel frame is the same thickness all the way back to the rear of the trailer. The caps or the return flange take most of the load, the web is there to stabilize the caps. I would design the caps to be thickest over the axle and taper off as you go aft thus distributing the load away from the stress point directly over the axle. The dynamic load may be 10 or more higher than the static load to put that channel in bending. A box beam would be the strongest followed by an I beam and then a C channel for strength to weight. I think your plan of cutting the flange to straighten and jack up is a good one. I would just add a plate or two to the lower return flange to distribute the dynamic load better. Adding a plate to the flange to stabilize the caps would,be a good idea also. Hopes this helps.
Gjac 02/05/17 06:04pm Tech Issues
RE: The 300 foot rule -- do they mean what they say?

I used to back pack when I was younger in the NE. The rules in the NF were you had to be 250 ft from a road,river,lake or senic area. Depending on the park ranger that you talked to some wanted you to use existing sites some wanted you to make new sites to prevent over use. I found that useing existing sites were a lot easier and were established over the years and were in better locations than I could find by myself. When they were overused the rangers would put no camping signs up for a couple of years to let vegation grow back. There is only one NF around me and there are a couple of dozen existing sites that I know of that you can RV camp I would not attemp to clear new sites in these heavily wooded areas.
Gjac 02/04/17 03:09pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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