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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 674 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Refrigerator Flame

After you clean the tube as previously suggested and the if the flame still flickers try putting a flat screw driver tip over the burner slots to adjust the air to fuel ratio. If the flickering stops you need a new burner. What I found as the burners get old and rust and you clean them with a wire brush the slots get wider and the air to fuel ratio is off and cause the flicker.
Gjac 09/26/16 08:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Afraid to make the leap to diesel

To me the question is not gas vs diesel but what size MH do you want. For most of us buying any MH is a big purchase and you want to get the "right" one. If you want to stay small 34 ft or less I think a gas MH makes more sense. 36 ft to 43 ft a DP makes more sense. What I have noticed is that the bigger the DP gets the bigger the eng is and the more HP it has. A gas MH has the same eng whether it is 30 ft or 38 ft. Having raced motor cycles you understand that it is the HP/WT ratio that determines performance. A 30 ft MH will have 362HP and weigh 15,000 lbs a 36 ft DP may have 360-380 HP but weigh 28,000 lbs. A 40-43ft DP may have 500 hp but weigh well over 30,000 lbs. A 32-34 ft DP if you can find one may have 190-300 HP. So if you want to stay small like your older 30ft Allegro a 362HP Ford or a 340 HP WH will in general will have better performance than most DP's. The decision is harder in the 34 to 36 ft range.
Gjac 09/24/16 09:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: HWH auto levelling system question.

Do you have the kick down jack series 200? If so they sound like a Mercury switch that tells the light on the dash that the jacks are up and the jack lights go off. It could be just the ground wire that is hanging. There is a small screw that screws into the jack to hold the ground wire in place.
Gjac 09/23/16 09:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: What kind of Class A do you recommend?

I think the most important thing to do first before you do anything is to determine how you plan to use it. Do you like to camp in FHU CG's or NP, SP, NF or other remote type CG's? Do you prefer to travel and stop for a few days at a time or do you prefer long term camping? Do you want to have all the amenities of home(TV, Internet, stereo systems etc) or do you prefer watching a camp fire and sitting outside? If you can describe how you like to camp, your budget, where you want to go and with who(grandkids pets) you will get better advice. Most people will recommend based on their own camping styles.
Gjac 09/19/16 02:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: MH or TC - Which is better to get into the Boonies?

Everything in life has trade offs. For myself I would rather have a small Class A to camp in and a 4 wheel drive car/jeep to explore. The A will have more FW capacity which is the limiting factor for dry camping. A small A will also have have more storage in general, better suspension , leveling system and more CCC.
Gjac 09/18/16 09:15am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Too big

The answer is it depends on your requirements. I dry camp 99 percent of the time but rarely use my 5.5kw genset. Having more KW than you require uses more fuel , that is why a lot of folks use these smaller gensets. If you watch a lot of tv or have a lot of electronic devices when you dry camp then a small genset is nice to have. If you travel in the south in summer a large one is req to run 2 AC's. If you stay up north or in high elevations it is not required . In 11 years I only needed the AC's once while traveling in 100 degree weather.
Gjac 09/18/16 08:50am Beginning RVing
RE: 5 Tools You MUST Have To RV

In order of use over the last 11 years and 80,000 miles of travel. Multimeter , extra wire and connectors, basic tool box(sockets set metric and English, vise grips, screw driver set etc), tire plug kit and compressor, lubricants ( WD 40, silicone spray), adhesives( Shoe Goo, contact cement, gorilla tape). I have yet to make a trip without something needing repair.
Gjac 09/18/16 08:18am Beginning RVing
RE: HWI Level system warning went on while driving

I have the HWH series 200 kickdown jacks and had this same problem. What I found that there is a mercury switch at each jack that when the jacks retract the switch is tripped and ground wire completes the circuit to turn the light off. When the ground wire is dirty or corroded the light says on even though the jacks are retracted. There is a small screw and ring terminal the has to be cleaned on occasion. Check to see if you have a similar switch.
Gjac 09/16/16 09:38am Tech Issues
RE: Class A Built for Two?

One thing that I have noticed is 30 ft or less have limited storage and small fresh water tanks. I am in the same situation you are as how I plan to use the MH. I like the full basement storage with at least two pass thru's to store bikes, ladder, table etc., and at least 80 gals of fresh water. I have not found this in any 30ft or smaller MH. 32 ft seems to be the minimum to have these req's met. I just test drove a 2014 32ft Daybreak that had 3 pass thru's, and 100 gal FW tank. Some older model Daybreaks have the big rear pass thru's under the bed like you see on the ACE, FR3, Mirada MH's in addition to the full basement storage that these other do no have. I am still searching for other models that meet these regs.
Gjac 09/16/16 08:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fryeburg (Maine) Fair

The fair is nice much different than the Big E. Unless you stay on the grounds avoid senior day which is free but you will be stuck in traffic for miles. A few of the NF CG's are still open and it is a nice drive along the Kangamugus hwy or 302 to look at leaves. I hope to make it again this year.
Gjac 09/14/16 07:58am Rallies, Shows and Gatherings
RE: overheating 1993 Wannabago brave 27

If the previous suggestion don't work,I would use a good chemical flush first drain it, remove the thermostat and reinstall the housing, disconnect the bottom hose and clamp a garden hose inside and let it run full force. You can watch what comes out and see how fast it is draining. While the thermostat is out put it in water and bring it up to a boil, it should open just before boiling about a 1/4 in. If it still runs hot use an IR gun and shoot the temp sensor in the left head and thermostat housing and compare that to your gage reading, these gages can be off. You can then shoot the radiator with the IR gun in a 4 in grid pattern from top to bottom and look for colder spots which would indicate a blocked section of the radiator. From top to bottom you should see a change in temperature of 50 degrees. Having said all that a gage reading of 212 on a flat is not all that hot for a 454, does it recover quickly once you crest the hill or does it stay hot for a while?
Gjac 09/10/16 10:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Toilet Seal

Rooster, As an Ex-engineer with Thetford, I will tell you that there is a good possibility that the seal system has been fouled by calcium papitate. Just a little CLR (easier to get than most acids) and that may do it by itself. Matt. How old is your toilet? After trying the things other suggested with no luck I removed the toilet and took it apart, what I found was this mineral buildup that had to be scraped of with a putty knife. I could not see how to replace my seal and even if I could it still would not have sealed do to this deposit. My Thetford is 20 years old so I guess it takes awhile for this to build up. It still seals fine with the original seal.
Gjac 09/01/16 02:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow protection

I made one out of old trampoline material when I went to Alaska. Also made a wind shield protector . The dirt roads and passing trucks threw a lot of rocks up and it worked as designed. After a month of driving I just used the wind shield protector. It is just added work when disconnecting the tow car, and not worth $200-$400 IMO. I never used it again after the Alaska trip.
Gjac 08/13/16 10:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: can not start generator

If I understand your post the genset will not even crank over is that right? If that is the case I would jump your tow car directly to the starter and see if that will turn the engine over. It sounds to me that you are not getting enough amps to the starter to crank the eng. Could be a loose or coroded cable. If and alternate 12 v source starts the genset you know the problem is with the batteries or cables.
Gjac 08/13/16 06:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: What place has made you Blush, cry, make you proud...?

Cried, standing on the Arizona in HI watching the oil still coming out after all those years. Blushed, at the night ceremony at Mt Rushmore when they called all veterans up on stage to state name and years you served and branch of service. Sad, when I got out of the Navy in 1971 and a philosophy professor called me a baby killer on my first day of class. Mad, to think the universities still let these guys teach and influence our young kids.
Gjac 08/13/16 11:14am General RVing Issues
RE: Do I need new steps? Help me decide

In addition to the 4 tension bolts that drew described there are two shear bolts or self tapping screws, one on each side of the steps. It took me a while to find one was sheared off and was causing my steps to sag on the same side.
Gjac 08/12/16 10:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Fuel pump

As bud implied in his post if you have a bad connection you may not be getting a consistent 12v to the pump. This happened to me on a trip. I bought a new one at Napa when I went to install it I found that the butt splice from the 12v supply line to the pump was loose. I put in a new splice and now have a spare pump.
Gjac 08/12/16 09:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Fridge not cooling

Before you replace any more parts I would check the cooling unit first to see if it is good by discontenting the 120v heater from the board and connecting it directly to a 120v source and let it run overnight. If the refer cools down your unit is good and the problem is elsewhere. Let us know the results. Did you read the troubleshooting section that Old Biscuit posted? Gjac, I double checked that there is 120v coming from the board to the heating element. Also, when disconnecting power to the board the burner lights immediately and will continue to burn. Would there be an advantage to connecting the heater directly to 120v? Replacing the control board did correct the problem with the unit not lighting...but unfortunately its not cooling. We do have quite an issue with dirt dobbers and I'm wondering if there could be a blockage to the cooling unit. I appreciate any input! Thanks! What I am talking about is disconnecting the two leads on the 120v heater element from the board with the refer off(no power) plug those into a 120v extension cord. You will have to make some male connectors to plug into the female spade connectors on the heating element. By doing this you by pass all the electrical stuff that controls the heating element. If your refer gets down into the 30's overnight the cooling unit is good and the problem will be something less costly to fix.
Gjac 08/12/16 09:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Any hope for this roof?

The spots under the rack flanges are white rubber. I'll get a picture after work. What you are seeing is the white surface coat of your roof sloughing off and exposing the black base coat of the rubber that is why you still see white under the rack flanges which were not exposed to the elements. My friend has a 1996 Bounder with an EPDM rubber roof that is almost entirely black. I have the same year GBM that looks like yours. I coated mine in 2006 with Kool Seal that I got from a friend who bought a new MH with a FG roof. It looked white for about 4 years until it started sloughing off then showed the dark spots underneath. I only had enough for one primer coat and one final coat. I will eventually recoat the roof if I decide to keep it any longer only to reflect the sun's rays to keep the inside temps down.
Gjac 08/12/16 09:08am General RVing Issues
RE: hwh leveling sytem

I have this same system. As Richard said I cleaned the bezel several times with a Qtip and alcohol retensioned the springs, and had to replace the switch. In addition I left the window open and water got into the control board underneath and had to be replaced. The parking light does not always come on and the system will not work. If I quickly press the parking brake it will engage. Having said all that if yours always works on shore power but not on battery power and your batteries read 12.4v or higher I would check your connection for corrosion or tightness. Just because you read 12.4v at the solenoid for the motor does not mean you are getting enough amps through to engage the solenoid. Try pressing the battery combiner switch if jacks work then, you know the problem lies with the chassis battery or the cables connections.
Gjac 08/12/16 08:38am Class A Motorhomes
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