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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 837 matches.

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RE: Oil Changes and Overheating- A Cautionary Tale

Thanks for your post I have not even thought of this or seen it posted before. The question that I have is if you had known this before you pulled it do you think that you could have cleaned it with the AC condenser blocking the radiator?
Gjac 08/21/15 09:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Thor Vegas wiper hits windshield pillar.?

In addition to the adjustment that Bill described, there is an adjustment on the bolts that hold the motor in place, on mine it is on the left hand wiper. It is difficult to get to.
Gjac 08/21/15 07:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How many GAS coaches out there with "50 amp service"?

I have a 1996 gas MH and it has 50 amp service, 2 AC's and a slide. I thought they all were that way until I started looking for newer MH's.
Gjac 08/21/15 07:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ride Height P-30

long but extra full of good info. Thanks I have looked through this manual and it says ride height can vary plus or minus 1/2 in from side to side mine is 1 3/8 in lower on LH side. I have also checked ground to frame height as suggested and measure 1 in lower on left side. The shop near me can't look at it until after September. Still perplexed as to why the difference.
Gjac 08/20/15 06:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: loosing freon dash air

To answer your question directly you can by a kit from any auto parts store. I bought mine from Advanced Auto for $20 which had the dye, stop leak, and a UV pen. The dye in with 134 shows yellow under the light. Having said that you can look at the fittings, switch, valves and see if there is any oily residue first wipe it all clean with a rag and see if anymore shows up. The major leak that I found was at the trinary switch which I replaced. I also had to tighten the Schader valves. That was about 5 years ago and it is still cooling well.
Gjac 08/19/15 12:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing without a car braking system??

North Carolina. " ยง 20-124. Brakes. (a) Every motor vehicle when operated upon a highway shall be equipped with brakes adequate to control the movement of and to stop such vehicle or vehicles, and such brakes shall be maintained in good working order and shall conform to regulations provided in this section. (b) Repealed by Session Laws 1973, c. 1330, s. 39. (c) Every motor vehicle when operated on a highway shall be equipped with brakes adequate to control the movement of and to stop and hold such vehicle, and shall have all originally equipped brakes in good working order, including two separate means of applying the brakes. If these two separate means of applying the brakes are connected in any way, they shall be so constructed that failure of any one part of the operating mechanism shall not leave the motor vehicle without brakes. (d) Every motorcycle and every motor-driven cycle when operated upon a highway shall be equipped with at least one brake which may be operated by hand or foot. (e) Motor trucks and tractor-trucks with semitrailers attached shall be capable of stopping on a dry, hard, approximately level highway free from loose material at a speed of 20 miles per hour within the following distances: Thirty feet with both hand and service brake applied simultaneously and 50 feet when either is applied separately, except that vehicles maintained and operated permanently for the transportation of property and which were registered in this or any other state or district prior to August, 1929, shall be capable of stopping on a dry, hard, approximately level highway free from loose material at a speed of 20 miles per hour within a distance of 50 feet with both hand and service brake applied simultaneously, and within a distance of 75 feet when either applied separately. (e1) Every motor truck and truck-tractor with semitrailer attached, shall be equipped with brakes acting on all wheels, except trucks and truck-tractors having three or more axles need not have brakes on the front wheels if manufactured prior to July 25, 1980. However, such trucks and truck-tractors must be capable of complying with the performance requirements of G.S. 20-124(e). (f) Every semitrailer, or trailer, or separate vehicle, attached by a drawbar or coupling to a towing vehicle, and having a gross weight of two tons, and all house trailers of 1,000 pounds gross weight or more, shall be equipped with brakes controlled or operated by the driver of the towing vehicle, which shall conform to the specifications set forth in subsection (e) of this section and shall be of a type approved by the Commissioner. It shall be unlawful for any person or corporation engaged in the business of selling house trailers at wholesale or retail to sell or offer for sale any house trailer which is not equipped with the brakes required by this subsection. This subsection shall not apply to house trailers being used as dwellings, or to house trailers not intended to be used or towed on public highways and roads. This subsection shall not apply to house trailers with a manufacturer's certificate of origin dated prior to December 31, 1974. (g) The provisions of this section shall not apply to a trailer when used by a farmer, a farmer's tenant, agent, or employee if the trailer is exempt from registration by the provisions of G.S. 20-51. This exemption does not apply to trailers that are equipped with brakes from the manufacturer and that are manufactured after October 1, 2009. (h) From and after July 1, 1955, no person shall sell or offer for sale for use in motor vehicle brake systems in this State any hydraulic brake fluid of a type and brand other than those approved by the Commissioner of Motor Vehicles. From and after January 1, 1970, no person shall sell or offer for sale in motor vehicle brake systems any brake lining of a type or brand other than those approved by the Commissioner of Motor Vehicles. Violation of the provisions of this subsection shall constitute a Class 2 misdemeanor. (1937, c. 407, s. 87; 1953, c. 1316, s. 2; 1955, c. 1275; 1959, c. 990; 1965, c. 1031; 1967, c. 1188; 1969, cc. 787, 866; 1973, c. 1203; c. 1330, s. 39; 1993, c. 539, s. 359; 1994, Ex. Sess., c. 24, s. 14(c); 2009-376, ss. 10, 11.)" Note Subsection (f): "Every semitrailer, or trailer, or separate vehicle,... having a gross weight of two tons..." This is the only law I have found in my research that could be said to specifically address towed vehicles. Note that such a combination of vehicles must still comply with the provisions of Subsection (e), which is a braking performance standard such as that set by FMVSS! So if I understand the legal req's brakes are only needed on a towed vehicle weighing more than 4000 lbs. Is that your interpretation?
Gjac 08/19/15 12:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Noisy Workhorse engine fan

If you search some of the older posts there has been a fair amount of talk about how to adjust some of the fan clutches. There is a bi metal coil spring in front that you can see with a mirror and a flash light. Some have slots to adjust the spring for more or less tension. I wanted mine to act like yours and come on early and mine was potted in silicone so I gave up on the mod. A spring that is covered with dirt and oil acts as an insulator and will cause the fan to come on later, seeing that it works off air temps not the eng temps. I never hear mine unless I am out west on long hills and then it comes on just before the red, but I have an ODB1 connector and I know my gauge is off. As someone else said you can put a switch on the electric fan up front. I turn mine on when I see a hill coming, AC on, a 90 + degree day or whenever I see temps 210 or above.
Gjac 08/19/15 12:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Over heating

A good radiator shop can give you a better diagnosis. They can put a pressure gauge on the radiator to see if you have a leak or if the head gasket is leaking. They'll also check the radiator cap to make sure it's holding the correct pressure. Sometimes the radiator cores get clogged and back flushing isn't enough to remove the gunk. You might need to get the radiator re-cored or replaced. An easy way to check it is to get one of the 15 dollar IR temperature guns and check the temperature of different parts of the radiator. If there are cool spots on the radiator it indicates that it's clogged.This is a must have tool with a hot running 454. To add some detail to maybacks post. Get the eng up to operating temps then shoot the inlet on the top of the radiator and take a reading every 4 ins from top to bottom in a grid pattern. Radiators usually block in the center so if you see colder temps in a circular pattern you know you have blockage. On mine I had a deta T of 50 degrees from top to bottom. I thing you need to see at least 30 degrees difference to have a functioning radiator. In addition you can shoot the sensor in the LH head and compare that reading to your thermostat housing temp then look at you dash gauge they should be close, the temp sensor and gauge should be the same and your housing a little less. After you climb a hill does the temp recover quickly as you go down? Does it overheat at idle on a hot day? There are a lot of things you can do to cool a hot running 454 but start with the basic things first, then post back with your answers.
Gjac 08/18/15 11:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Went In For Alignment Now Feel Being Taken For A Ride

Does the WH chassis have ball joints? I would have your husband take pictures of what you are trying to describe if you want further help. I just went through a series of problems with my front end with ball joints so I no how sickening this can be.
Gjac 08/18/15 11:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Seafoam Treatment

You don't have to crank the engine to check fuel flow. The fuel pump is electric, and will run in the prime (off) position of the "start/stop" button I would disconnect the fuel line and crank the eng, does the fuel shoot out? If not disconnect the intake side of the line and suck on it then put your finger over it and see if it hold vacuum. I use a clear tube on the line to see the fuel. If your line is good and you get fuel out of the pump I would put the intake line into a gal of gas and a half can of Seafoam and run it for an hr under load after you flood the carb with Seafoam and let it sit per the instructions on the can. I don't have prime on mine. If you hold the 'off' button down the fuel pump will run to prime the genny. Not on my 20 year old Kohler. I wish it did.
Gjac 08/16/15 09:13am Tech Issues
RE: STRANGE OCCURRANCE

Another possibility not mention yet is TGA. This happened to me where I did not know what happened or where I was for several mins. I ended up in the hospital for 3 days and a myriad of tests. The Dr's it was a mini stroke (TGI), heart problem but after all the tests came back determined in was Transient Global Amnesia (TGA). The Dr explained to me that it is quite common in older men and a stressful situation can bring it on. I just turned 65 when it happened. Glad you are alright.
Gjac 08/16/15 08:55am General RVing Issues
RE: Seafoam Treatment

You don't have to crank the engine to check fuel flow. The fuel pump is electric, and will run in the prime (off) position of the "start/stop" button I would disconnect the fuel line and crank the eng, does the fuel shoot out? If not disconnect the intake side of the line and suck on it then put your finger over it and see if it hold vacuum. I use a clear tube on the line to see the fuel. If your line is good and you get fuel out of the pump I would put the intake line into a gal of gas and a half can of Seafoam and run it for an hr under load after you flood the carb with Seafoam and let it sit per the instructions on the can. I don't have prime on mine.
Gjac 08/15/15 06:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Seafoam Treatment

I would disconnect the fuel line and crank the eng, does the fuel shoot out? If not disconnect the intake side of the line and suck on it then put your finger over it and see if it hold vacuum. I use a clear tube on the line to see the fuel. If your line is good and you get fuel out of the pump I would put the intake line into a gal of gas and a half can of Seafoam and run it for an hr under load after you flood the carb with Seafoam and let it sit per the instructions on the can.
Gjac 08/13/15 10:32pm Tech Issues
RE: SOLVED!....sort of. Where's there's spark.. there's no fire!

You got 5 pages of good advice. I have two questions. The backfire that you hear is it through the carb or out the exhaust? How old and how thick are your spark plug wires? Have you tried to start it at night and look for arcing wires stealing spark before it gets to the plugs? Wires do go bad from the heat which the 454 produces a lot of. After replacing my ignition wires twice I went to the 10.5 mm Taylor wires that have lasted about 8 years now. I timed mine from the bottom using # 5 plug and removed the tan wire from the distributor. I went to 9 degrees before TDC it made a difference in performance. Also I think that your total advance should be about 23 degrees. There is an older thread by Sum1 that gives the details on how to check it.
Gjac 08/13/15 10:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Front end alignment cost??

I just paid $120 last week for mine.
Gjac 08/13/15 05:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 63 year old killed by mama grizzly in Yellowstone

When I took my kids to Yellowstone in 1984 we never saw a bear. I took my GS there last month and saw 9 bears in one night including 2 grizzlies. Saw many more buffalo and elk also. So I think there is a lot more animals today to interact with.
Gjac 08/13/15 07:33am General RVing Issues
RE: Better gas mileage

I also think that weight has more to do with MPG than aerodynamics. If you look at the front of a C with the overhang this is much less aerodynamic than an A but shorter C's will have better fuel economy than a longer A because they are much lighter. Longer length equals more weight. If the C and A are the same length and weight the A may be slightly better. Now I realize there are other factors that come into play such as gear ratios, HP to weight ratios etc but for the sake of answering the OP she is right longer is heavier and heavier is less mpg. Another simple example is just compare Class A's with the same front ends in a 28 ft and 38 ft and you will see the 38 ft gets less mpg over the 28 ft.
Gjac 08/12/15 09:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Synthetic Oil versus Regular

As Vulcanrider said if it does not leak keep using it. My experience is mixed. When I switched to Syn oil in the MH an old 454 with 50,000 miles I had no trouble. I decided why buy 3 different oils so I used the same 10-30 wt oil in the genset and tow car. The tow car 2002 Toyota Corolla leaked at the pan gasket, and I re-tighten it 3 times and 4 oil changes with regular oil before it stopped leaking. The genset, because of less usage did not show up until the following year or so and just got worse. I could not tell where the leak was coming from. I switched back to regular oil and the leak is slowing down but is still leaking. I might try a blend first on an older eng with a lot of miles and look for leaks. I have 104 k miles on the 454 and it runs great with syn. I saw no difference in MPG or any difference in heat reduction using it.
Gjac 08/12/15 09:25am Dinghy Towing
RE: Sound insulation of doghouse

Which chassis do you have? Ford or Chevy?
Gjac 08/12/15 08:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago basement air

How many BTU's does the basement AC put out?
Gjac 08/12/15 08:34am Class A Motorhomes
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