I have been looking at older Class C's with the idea of getting something for short trips fishing etc., I have a 35ft FW and Diesel P/Up for full-timing but we have been off the road for the last year due to frequent medical appointments. Any way I have found one with the Dodge 318 (1979) and another with the Cheve 350 (1981), from what I find on the web the 318 is about 230HP/320 torque, the 350 is 160HP/250 torque, does this sound right? If so given the same size MH would the 318 be more capable than the 350? My trips would be in and around Colorado.
My '69/'70 Explorer (Class A) had a 318-3 with a 4.10 rear axle. Passed a lot of (newer) cars & trucks going up Turnagain Pass & didn't have to down shift until almost to the top. Also drove it from Anchorage to Fairbanks, past Denali (aka Mount McKinley). Speedometer was broke so I asked a buddy following me to Homer how fast I was going ... he said, "Sometimes you slowed to 70." Properly tuned and kept around the speed limit, gas mileage is great for a motorhome ... around 14 mpg. (This engine is a key element in my attempt to build a Class A custom that gets over 20 mpg.)
Also had a '77 Dodge B200 with a 318. Towed a fairly heavy white-water jet boat all over south-central Alaska for several years. Eight and a half years and 170,000 miles (when I traded it off) and it was still going strong.
IMHO, the 318 is one of the beast engines ever built ... better than the 360 and better in a (real) truck than the 340. In a small to mid-size motorhome, it's very good, unless you regularly pull a heavy trailer like Leeann does. (Also, in my not-so-humble opinion, most motorhomes with 440s, 454s, etc. are overpowered.)
Carry a spare ballast resistor. Two wires and one screw to replace but will drive you nuts and stop you dead when yours fails.
Advance the timing a few degrees over spec's. If it doesn't ping, you'll get better mileage.
If it uses oil, look at replacing the valve stem seals. They're known to fail, allowing the pistons to suck oil past the valve stems. (A lot of people -- like I did once on the '77 -- do valve jobs or ring jobs when all they needed was new valve stem seals. They can be replaced in a few hours with a few special tools and without dismantling the engine.)
Avoid yellow Heet and gasoline containing alcohol ... either will eat up the seals in the two-barrel Carter BBD carburetors. (Took me three carb rebuilds to learn to stop using Heet.)
Okay, I decided I didn't want to do anything I was supposed to be doing ...
The instrument voltage regulator for both the '76 & '78 Dodge B300 is CarQuest ECC 52-1402, which they call an Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator.
Should be the same for the MB300s.
there is a track for the slider screen. the window on the other side has a sliding screen in it. The window is vertical. on my way to check out e-bay. i'm sure I'll be looking for other parts down the road. Hope to do business with you. Thank you
If the track is there, it may be possible to make the screen ... although a bit of a PITA.
Otherwise, good luck. Sorry I could be more help.
cool. as to the window slide for a screen, it's the long window on the passenger side of the truck. The one over the water tank. if you have one, let me know how much and we can go from there . Again, thanks for all your help!!
First, did the window originally have a screen? If so, you may be able to just replace the screen. You may have to remove the window assembly to get at the (hidden) screws holding the screen frame in place. (If you do remove the assembly, be sure to re-bed -- seal -- the assembly when you reinstall it.)
Second, does your window have raked (slanted) sides or are the sides vertical? All the spare windows I have are raked. If yours are raked, I'll need the dimensions to see if I have a match.
If yours have vertical sides, search eBay for "RV windows" ... there are new overstock windows available that are better than older replacements. Some may be an exact replacement for your window, with better insulation, glass, mechanisms, and -- sometimes -- emergency egress fittings.
Thanks for the info. I think it's a 'c' it says it had a 360, but it's been replaced with a 440. says something about a MBH-300. as you can see I don't know a lot about this stuff. it's 10,000 lbs loaded. 23ft long. 6 wheel xpoler 260. I have found a lot of info on other xplorers, but nobody seams to know about the 260. I think it's just the short brother of the 300's. what can I tell you that would say 'a' or 'c'? and again, thanks for your help.
Yes, it's a Class C.
The Dodge Class A chassis are MXXX or RMXXX. The M chassis had all drum brakkes and the RM chassis (sometimes called a R3, R4, or R5 chassis) had disc front brakes.
The original motorhomes (Travcos and their essentially-the-same predecessor) were on P300 delivery truck chassis, with slant six engines. (People had trouble believing their fancy motorhome was on the same chassis as their local dairy/laundry/bread service trucks so Dodge came up with the M300 designation ever though the M300 chassis was identical to the P300 chassis.)
The Dodge BXXX trucks were/are the vans. The Class C chassis is MB300, with the M standing for motorhome. (To the best of my knowledge, all Class C's are 1-ton MB300 chassis.) As in your case, you will sometimes find additional letters thrown in there (Mother Mopar got weird at times) but the 300 and the MB are the important parts.
Because the MB300 is a cut-away version of the B300, most of the non-coach parts are the same ... which is why I tell people to tell the counter folks to look for B300 parts.
Hi! my fuel gauge just seams to go anywhere it wants to. would that be the limiter? oh, mine is a 76 xplorer 260 I need a side window slide so I can put a screen in it. The front corners are curved. I also need a heater control panel. not sure what the last guy was doing, but it's gone. I do have a few tech sheets from the 70's if there is any thing i can help with, more than happy to see if I can find any info.
Yes, a faulty instrument regulator could cause that, especially if it's malfunctioning intermittently.
All older electric gauges, except ammeters, are essentially voltage meters. The sensors, in turn, are variable resistors, varying the voltage going to the meter based on changes in oil pressure, water temperature, or float position in the fuel tank. Faulty voltage regulators, corroded connections, longer or shorter wires, and bad grounds will all contribute to erroneous readings.
As for windows, do you have a Class C or a Class A? As long as you're not looking for a Class A driver's or passenger's window, I might be able to help you out ... I have quite a few salvaged from other motorhomes. Rectangular windows are fairly easy to find but the parallelogram (raked) windows are becoming hard to find. (I'm hanging on to the front side windows for projects in progress or on the drawing board.)
Heater control panels depend upon whether you have a Class A or Class C. (To the best of my knowledge, Xplorers were all Class A's.) If Class C, ask the parts person for the heater control for a '76 Dodge B300. (If they're clueless, I will be able to look up third party part numbers for you.)
If you have a Class A, the heater controls becomes very problematic. To the best of my knowledge, all Class A's used third party heater systems and it can be very difficult to track down who made the heater and where to get parts ... assuming they're still in business and/or anyone's even heard of them. Parts stores specializing in medium- and heavy-duty trucks may be able to help you.
Hi Griff In Fairbanks...& thanks!
The stock Fuel gauge is connected to a voltage limiter, turning 12v into 5v to make it work.
The voltage limiter is burnt out so need to bypass that.
So now how do I approach that problem with using a new aftermarket gauge Sorry, just not sure.
Interesting what your doing installing modern with old school!!
Aftermarket gauges each have their own voltage regulator (limiter) ... wire them directly to 12v.
Or, replace the OEM instrument voltage regulator. If your parts person gives you a perplexed look, tell them to look it up for a '78 Dodge B300. If they're still hopeless, let me know and I'll look up the part number through my weblink parts finder.
Have 1978 Dodge Sportsman Otto MH. Speedo & gauges not working, damaged circuit board broken power plug pins.
Unfixable near impossible to find replacement cluster.
Wondering if anyone here has hooked up aftermarket gauges.
Concerned mainly about aftermarket temp gauge. Are all aftermarket gauges compatible with my 78 or does voltage needs need to match?
Replace the OEM sensor with the aftermarket sensor that corresponds to the aftermarket gauge.
I'm replacing all my gauges with Autometer gauges and using the corresponding Autometer sensors. (Except the oil pressure sensor but did the research to make sure the Autometer gauge was reasonably compatible with the OEM sensor.) That's especially true for the fuel gauge as the spec's vary wildly between various OEM and aftermarket gauges.
Of course, I'm immediately voiding the Autometer warranty by cutting the guts (movement) out of the casing, making new faceplates, and mounting them inside a '69 Dodge truck cluster. (Modern gauges combined with old skool look.)
Its inspection time for the '74 Dodge Rockwood and for the most part all went great. I had to replace a few bulbs, windshield washer pump and the emergency brake cable....there lies the problem.
My mechanic is not having any luck finding the right E-brake cable. Any suggestions. He got one from Dorman(part# C93516)and also one from Wagner(BC88831). Both are too short.
Any advice on where to find the proper cable? My Dodge is on a 1974 B300 sportsman.
Thanks for any suggestions, I can't wait to get camping!
Try CarQuest BRK 8498 (Raybestos). If that's not right, try BRK 68420, which is the one for the school bus version of the 74 B300 chassis.
BTW - your actual chassis designation is MB300 but a lot of parts databases don't list that chassis so B300 is the "best" alternative ... and hope there wasn't any differences between the two chassis for the part you're looking for.
Yours may be a split year motorhome, in which case your chassis could actually be a 73 or even a 72. Look for the chassis VIN stamped in the frame above and a little to the front of the right front wheel. (Or, left front wheel -- Mother Mopar moved it to the other side at some point in history.)
The chassis VIN may not match the title VIN as the final body manufacturer (i.e., Rockwood) assigns the title year and VIN. On split year motorhomes, the chassis year is always older than the title year. Some coach manufacturers used the chassis VIN but most assigned their own VIN. (And a few, like Explorer, used either depending on when they built the coach.)
I also checked 73 MB300 but my Weblink didn't show a e-brake cable for that year & model. That simply means they didn't enter it in the online database. I have other resources for looking up older truck parts.
Weblink did show a cable for the 73 (and earlier) B300 Maxi -- p/n PIO CA-5044 (Pioneer).
If none of this helps, let me know and I'll keep digging.
Funny, I've spent less in repairs and upgrades than those I know with brand new RVs.
You couldn't make me buy a new one.
As long as the coach is solid, unless you're like me and like to completely rebuild them.
Mostly, replace a few parts, upgrade a few others, do routine maintenance, and understand them.
First of all, welcome, Missjaymie.
Leeann - She has a catalytic heater, which is different from your forced-air heater.
I believe the heater issue has to do with the "spark" it's an old thermx catalytic heater. I've gotten it to run once, but it usually wont light, and when it does it starts with a puff of flame, that quite frankly worries me.
The difference is combustion within a sealed chamber versus combustion on the surface of a synthetic mat.
Almost all catalytic heaters start with a puff of flame -- unnerving but not really dangerous unless you try to start it with your face, hands, hair or a combustible material close to it.
Leeann's heater draws combustion air in from outside and vents the fumes outside. Yours draws its combustion air from the surface of the synthetic mat (i.e., from the inside of the vehicle) and vents the fumes off the mat's surface, to the inside of the vehicle.
Not the best option for heat but okay if you use some precautions, in addition to the precaution mentioned above.
First, you need to be sure the oxygen used for combustion is replaced. Your vehicle probably has enough air leaks but I'd leave a window slightly open, just in case.
Second, install a good battery-operated carbon monoxide detector (always a good idea) and keep the batteries fresh.
Third, if you find yourself feeling light-headed, dizzy, or unusually sleepy, get out and get some fresh air. At night, I'd leave a window close to, and higher than, the bed slightly open to be sure you get fresh air while sleeping.
Don't let this scare you -- catalytic heaters are comparatively safe, as long as you are aware and use some common sense.
As for the range, Leeann is probably right -- if there's any gas in the lines, it's probably stale or significantly diluted. In my cabin, it takes a couple of minutes for the gas to reach the range and build up sufficient volume whenever I change cylinders.
Good luck and have fun.