It sounds like the grey is actually RG59 which is a tiny bit smaller and requires the proper connector. Or, if you are saying the grey is too large then it could be RG6 quad shield which also requires the appropriate connector. As a side note, crimp connectors work OK but you would be much better served by using compression fittings.
I agree with using the compression fittings. If you're replacing them you might as well use the better ones. I replaced everyone I could access in our MH, grey and black cable, all are RG6.
The cost to heat the house at 55-60 degrees isn't that much. Nobody home, no outside doors being opened. You be surprised how much savings there is in lowering the temp 10-15 degrees. Did this for a number of years with our cottage, never winterized it.
We have a WiFi thermostat that will send an email if the temp drops to 45. It will also email if the temp drops 5 degrees during a heating cycle. We have a well so turn off the pump, relieve pressure and drain all lines into basement laundry tub. Neighbors have a key and our son only lives 7 miles away. I can turn the heat up during our trip home so the house is comfortable when we arrive.
FixMyBlinds.com Wrap a piece of your cord around a pencil 10 times. Measure the wraps end to end. They have have a chart that tells you what size to use. Of course if you can measure it in millimeters you don't need the chart.
They also have diagrams showing how the strings run through the blinds depending on the number of strings and number of springs. Also a video on how to do it. Just restrung one of ours with cord order from them and using their diagrams.
We bought a 2003 Adventurer this year, should be pretty similar to your Itasca. Has a roof mounted dish and also had a tripod and a ton of cables for another dish but no dish.
I replaced the bedroom TV with a 26" flat screen and the front TV with a 32" one. Replacing the front TV was a real nightmare. Once you remove the plastic surround you find a metal cage the TV sits in. That cage is welded to and hangs from a cross member near the roof. I had to cut the metal cage loose from the cross member to remove it.
Anyway, it's down now and worked out pretty good.
...Not sure why but new MH tires with pressure way more than needed can make a rig that handles well be all over the road...
Which is why you should inflate by weight, not to MAX just because it makes you feel good.
Radial tires are designed to have the sidewalls flex. This increases the contact area of the tread both across the tread and front to rear. Over inflation reduces this contact area, or at least the area with a good solid grip on the road. Over inflate enough and you've reduced the contact area to a small circle in the center of the tread.
Now add a cross wind, a small bump in the road and you're all over the place. Anyone that thinks this is safer, well all I can say is good luck. Oh, and if it starts raining get off the road because now you're in real danger. You're running on a small patch of rubber contacting a wet road surface, not a good combination.
As Big Katuna said, over inflation will also cause your tires to wear unevenly. The center will wear out faster just as under inflated tires will cause the outer edges to wear faster.
Every vehicle manufacturer provides a recommended pressure for the tires they installed, Some of it's for comfort, some for fuel economy but a big part is also safety.
Sure, you can gamble that you will get a better ride by running your tires at lower pressures based on the axle weight. Actually, your load rating will be closer to a lower rated maximum and the factor of safety will be less too. Will you get a better ride? I'll bet you couldn't tell the difference. It's all in the mind. It's better to inflate the tires closer to the maximum sidewall rating because you will have more safety factor and lower your chances of a blowout.
Really, that's how it works. GM says I should inflate my car tires to 33 psi. Max pressure listed on the sidewall is 51 psi. So I should pump them up to 51 psi and if it feels like I'm running on wooden wagon wheels it's all my head and I'll be safer and have less chance of a blowout.
Winnebago says I should inflate my tires to 80 psi front 85 psi rear. Why would they say that if it's safer and less chance of a blowout to just pump them up to 110 psi?
Suggest you do a little homework and see what bad affects over inflating yours tires can have. Tire manufacturers don't put out tire pressure charts based on weight just for the fun of it. If it was that simple they would remove the 'MAX Inflation xxx PSI' and replace with 'Inflate To xxx PSI' and be done with it.
" At full weight your tires require 100 psi. So 1 side is 600lbs heavier. That's a difference of 3.5%. So what do you do? One set of tires(side) get's 101.75lbs and the other side get's 98.25lbs. "
This is totally wrong. Tires on the same axle should be set to the weight of the heaviest side.
My mistake, so both sides should be increased by 3.5 psi. Had you just weighed the axle at a CAT scale and assumed both sides the same you would have only increased the pressure 1.75 psi. That leaves your tires under-inflated by a whopping 1.75 psi, assuming your gauge is that accurate. Sounds like a major catastrophe waiting to happen.
I've jumped my house batteries off my truck at home. I tried the emergency start and couldn't get it to work. I though that used the house batts to start the chassis engine not the other way around. may not matter. But anyway, yes you can jump them. I am not sure how it works though if you have 6v batts though. 12v worked fine for me.
The emergency start connects the chassis and house batteries together. It doesn't care which set of batteries is low. Now if you have multiple dead house batteries the chassis battery may not have enough juice to bring them up to where they'll start the gen. I have used it on ours when the house batteries were low but not completely dead.
I think it is a nice thing to have around. I can see using it for your own coach and even allowing friends and others to weigh their coaches to insure they are within limits. Good for you.
I agree and I still don't get why some people have the constant desire to tell everyone how to spend their cash. Using that kind of logic it's a waste of money to even own an RV, hotels are much cheaper.
05 Travel Supreme Envoy
Didn't tell anyone how to spend their money. I said when it becomes that much work for me I'd rather spend my time on other pursuits.
Sounds like a waste of $340 and your time. Cat scales are cheap.Cat scales won't tell you that your right side is 600lbs heavier than your left side, something my last 4-corner weigh-in did.
Seriously? A 4 corner or side to side one time will tell you how even the sides are as manufactured. You mean to tell me that you can't figure out that you overloaded one corner by 600 lbs, that's a lot of weight.
It's not rocket science. Let's say you have a rear axle rated for 17.000lbs. At full weight your tires require 100 psi. So 1 side is 600lbs heavier. That's a difference of 3.5%. So what do you do? One set of tires(side) get's 101.75lbs and the other side get's 98.25lbs. You really think that will make a difference? Depending on which side of the MH is facing the sun the heat from the sun can make a lot bigger difference than that.
Morning temps versus afternoon temps will also affect tire pressure a lot more than that 1.75lbs. Driving from a northern state in the winter to a southern state, same result. Speed, a big difference tire temps. I could have used a higher GAWR but that would make that 600lbs even less significant.
Do what makes you comfortable, feel good, but I really think some overthink this. Is tire pressure important, of course it is. How accurate is your gauge? If it's digital, maybe it will read to .5lbs. Other gauges, how good are your eyes?
Set your tire pressure based on the manufacturers recommendations and weight. A 5% or even !0% difference ain't gonna make that much difference. There are just too many other variables at play, outside temps, speed, etc.
Just my opinion, probably only worth what you paid for it. But, in 48 years of driving I have never had a tire blowout on a car, boat trailer, camper, TT or MH. Am I lucky? Sure, you can can do everything possible and still have a tire failure, stuff happens.
Not really fishy. Good Sam deals with a number of companies and will shop for the best rate. Sometimes you just have to switch to get a better rate. Insurance companies will typically keep pushing your rates up until you finally switch. Next company will probably do the same after some time.
Sign up for cable/internet, price keeps going up. Threaten to leave and, Oh we can offer you a better deal. Why didn't you offer that up front? It's business, they're in business to make money. If you'll put with higher rates they'll keep pushing them up as high as they can.
It sucks but you just have to learn to play the game. I do it every year with cable/internet, lawn care (fertilizer, weed control), etc. Either learn to play the game or pay the higher rates.
Question, do you plan to use the turnpike only with the MH pulling the toad? Will you be driving the toad on the turnpike? If only MH with toad get a stick SunPass for MH only. They will calculate toll for toad based on axles. You do not have to register toad with them, only MH.
If you plan to drive toad on turnpike get the transponder that can be moved between vehicles and register both vehicles. You don't want to get a stick on pass for both vehicles or you may be double charged. Once for MH and toad and once for toad.
As mentioned at least from Ft Lauderdale south no toll booths. SunPass rates are less than toll by plate and no admin fees. If this is a one time trip and you don't plan on ever going back, toll by plate is not a bad option.
If you plan on returning to FL get a Sunpass account. We've had one for at least 6 years, didn't use it for a few years but the money was still in the account. Go to the SunPass website, they have a toll calculator. Put in where you get on and off and what you're driving and it will show you the cost, minus admin fees if using toll by plate.
OP! You need to clarify your post. Is the propane vessel(s) permanently affixed to the RV or are they removable? If removable, are the bottles time expired? There is a expiration date on the collar of removable bottles. If expired they need to be either recertified or replaced.
The date stamped on the collar is the manufacture date, they need to be re certified after 12 years.
Why do you have to turn of the antenna amp? It only amplifies signal from antenna input, not cable, aux, sat, etc. If it needs to be off when watching cable on one TV then the other TV can't use the antenna. Not how ours works in this or previous MH.
Our previous MH had twins with nightstands in between. The beds ran front to back on the sides. I built a bed platform, full size, with head against the sidewall. Moved the nightstands to each side of the bed. It was tight,smaller MH, but worked out okay.
We take I-69 from northern IN thru Indianapolis, Louisville, Nashville, Birmingham AL, Montgomery, AL on I-65. Then catch US231 down to I-10 thru Dothan, AL. From there we go along the west side of FL via US19 (4-lane). You can then catch US98 over to I-75 then south.
You can go through Sarnia/Port Huron and stay on I-69 following the route above. Indianapolis is no problem with I-465. There is some construction through Louisville at the Ohio River. Working on a new bridge. Nashville traffic has never been a problem for us pulling our 5th wheel. There's often construction along nearly every route, but timing is always the trick.
We've taken this route several times. It would be shorter for us to take US23 south to I-75 in OH but I hate going through Cinci. You run the risk of traffic backups no matter how you go but I-69, I-65 and US231 have worked well for us.