Hey to stir the pot up a little more. If you only had single pole breakers in your house panel would that make your house 120 volt? The only difference between the house and RV is you do not have circuit that has a double pole breaker. If you meter both buses in your house panel and both the RV buses you get the same reading.
This is the point I was trying to make. We're talking about the input voltage, 240v. Also the breaker panel designed to handle 240v. The branch circuits may be 120v but that's secondary.
Ask this guy what he thinks. If the 50 amp RV is a 120v RV but accepts a 240v input then I guess a 30 amp RV should as well.
220v in 110v system
Your tow vehicle ins covers the liability and home owners ins covers the contents but you will need something to cover the trailer itself.
I'm surprised they dont offer this coverage for hefty fee.
Correct, you would think the rental company would offer it. How many insurance companies want to write a collision policy on a TT for a few weeks. The paperwork involved would eat up any profit unless they charged a whole lot for it. Just not worth it to them.
I'm with MrWizard. The fan and AC going on and off is much more likely to keep you awake. Once you adjust to the fan running it's constant white noise. You can't adjust or get use to a sound that goes on and off periodically throughout the night.
Had multiple kidney stones over the years, started when I was in my 30's then about every 18 months to 2 years another one. I started seeing a nephrologist 6 to 8 years ago, haven't had any since. He prescribed potassium citrate and calcium citrate, my stones were calcium oxalate. I've had lithotripsy 4-5 times as well. Nothing worse than a kidney stone too large to pass. It blocks off the ureter causing pressure inside the kidney. Eventually the kidney shuts down, fortunately it starts up again once the pressure is relieved.
Stay tuned for the next exciting episode of "RV Shore Power" where we'll explore the vast mysteries that surround supplying electrical power to an RV. Read what our quest writers, many with no electrical background or qualifications, say as they attempt to explain this extremely complicated and mysterious subject.
Keep your eyes open, the next episode will be coming soon to an RV forum near you. Who knows, perhaps the truth will finally be unveiled in the next episode. Beware though, many will claim it's just another conspiracy to hide the REAL truth. You the reader will have to decide if the mystery has finally be unraveled or if the truth continues to be hidden from us.
Should be a nail biter you won't want to miss.
May as well Give it up Hank, not gonna convince the misinformed.....
For those reading this thread in confusion, 1. Listen to Hank. 2. Don't go re wiring anything based on some of the info presented here!
I think you're right. Some people refuse to accept that it's the supply, in this case 50 amp 240v, that determines that it's a 240v RV not how you divide up the 2 legs and use them. So I guess I'll just let it go.
Pretty sure that looking at the win/loss record of teams over the last XXX years is useless. Michigan and OSU both have good teams but what happened last year or the year before or 20 years ago has no bearing on this year. Just like last weeks game has no bearing on next weeks game.
All I can say is things are getting interesting in the Big 10. Michigan is much improved this year but I'm certainly not counting OSU down and out. MSU may be down and out but expect a good game from them this week against Michigan. The Michigan OSU game should be a good one.
All 50 amp feeds are two legs of 110 volts. All campers are 110 volts. No such thing as a 240 volt camper.
Since my MH accepts 240v at 50 amps and manages the two hot legs I would say it's a 240v MH. If it only used one hot leg and had a single pole main breaker as opposed to a 2 pole main breaker then it would be a 120v MH. It doesn't have to have any 240v appliances to be considered a 240v MH. It accepts and manages 240v therefore it is a 240v MH.
What Old-Biscuit is saying, is:
Even though the pedestal provides 240 volt at the 50 Amp plug, the two (240 volt) legs are not used (simultaneously) for appliances that are made for 240 volt operation (unless you are driving a huge Prevost) to run an electric range, electric dryer or huge 4 ton A/C.
As soon as the 50A power enters the RV, it is split into two branches that power two separate buses in the load center.
This is made to balance the load between the two legs when the system is loaded to full capacity.
Utility providers requires this to protect their equipment.
Which is exactly what occurs in the service panel in your house. One hot leg feeding one buss and the other hot leg feeding the other buss. If you had a gas clothes dryer and gas stove and perhaps no central AC would your house then be considered a 120v house? No it's still 240v.
There are some non-electrical professionals here making incorrect statements.
The pedestals have both 120 and 240 volts available but almost all RVs are designed to operate everything at 120 volts. FWIW it's 120 & 240 not 110 or 220 and you always want to be operating at as close to 120 volts as possible.
And the reason that 50 amp RVs normally do not have 240 volt appliances is to allow the shore power cord to be plugged into a 30 amp, 120 volt pedestal. The NEC currently only requires 20 percent of an "RV park" to have 50 amp pedestals. As of 2005, only 5 percent of an RV park was required to have 50 amp pedestals. Finding a 50 amp pedestal in a CG can be very hard in the high season. Some CGs may have exceeded code requirements, but the majority have built to min. code requirements. Old RV parks may even have NO 50 amp pedestals.
If you plug a 50 amp RV into a 30 amp pedestal using an adapter, the RV's panel and shore power cord will have both hot sides of the 120/240 volt circuit connected together inside the adapter as shown in the 1st diagram below. Although you end up having 50 amps at 120 volts available up to the point of the pedestal, the 30 amp breaker in the pedestal limits you to 30 amps. No technical reason why you couldn't use 240 volt appliances but if plugged into a 30 amp pedestal they sure wouldn't work very well at 120 volts...
IMO it's very wrong for RV manufacturers to be selling 50 amp RVs to people when they don't tell buyers idea how hard it is to find a 50 amp pedestal in a CG.
All I can say is WOW!
No neutral canceling can occur at your breaker panel. That means the neutral line must be capable of carrying 100 amps and need to be twice as large as the hot legs.On this comment, this is incorrect. The current on the hots in a 120/240 volt cancel out on the neutral. For ex., if one leg was drawing 40 amps and the other 20 amps, the current on the neutral would be 20 amps. If both hot legs were carrying the same 40 amps, the neutral would have zero amps flowing in it. A neutral is there to handle the highest imbalanced current in a 120/240 volt circuit and the neutral wire is normally sized to match that of the hot legs. In some cases, code allows a reduced neutral size like on a service into a building.
Circuits that are 120/240 volts are not normally referred to as having phases although the current is flowing 180 degrees apart. A 120/240 circuit is 240 volts with a center tap grounded at exactly 1/2 way as in the 2nd diagram and the current in each 240 volt leg flows in the opposite direction and alternates one way to the other at 60 times/second.
There are a few RV parks (CGs) out there that have been wired at 120/208 volts which is more often seen in industrial and commercial facilities. If did in fact have anything in your RV that is designed to operate at 240 volts (dryer for ex.) it would only produce 75 percent of it's rating but anything rated at 120 volts would be unaffected.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=104929&d=1440715457 height=200 width=150http://www.electrical-contractor.net/BCodes/unbalanced__neutral.JPG height=300 width=350
You misunderstood what I was saying. I said if both hot legs were in phase, meaning supplied from the same source hot leg then no neutral canceling would take place. If the 2 hot legs are 180* out of phase then neutral canceling would take place. People keep insisting the 50 amp supply is 2 120v supplies. Technically and by code it's a 240v supply as the 2 hot legs are 180* out of phase. As i said earlier it's no different than the service coming into your house. Almost everything in your house runs off 120v, one of the 2 hot legs. It's quite possible to have no 240v loads at home.
Why people keep insisting that the RV 50 amp supply is some how different is beyond me. It's a 240v 50 amp supply. How the 2 hot legs are used to supply 120v or possibly together to supply 240v is irrelevant. Same thing occurs in your home but it's still a 240v supply.
All I can say is WOW!
LISTEN, although the 2 hot legs of a 50 amp supply are 120v when measure to neutral or ground they MUST be 180* out of phase resulting in a 240v supply. If they aren't out of phase, meaning both hot legs are being supplied from the same source hot leg. You have a problem. No neutral canceling can occur at your breaker panel. That means the neutral line must be capable of carrying 100 amps and need to be twice as large as the hot legs. It would also not meet any electrical code anywhere except maybe in Bangladesh.
If you don't understand it, stay away from it and hire a qualified electrician.
Well, as someone who is electrically literate, I guess I'll have to pull out my meter next time I'm at a campground. I've always thought that a 50 Amp campground outlet is wired just like a home dryer outlet. The way 110/220 electricity works is that either hot side to neutral (which, although is tied to ground in the supply panel is NOT considered the same) yields 110 Volts while measuring across the two 'hot' terminals provides 220. The only difference is that with campers, the wiring does not allow for 220 Volt use, just two 110 volt circuit that divide the RV's load between the two 110 Volt feeds. If you look at the power lines into your house, you will see 2 'hot' leads, a neutral and a ground. The technical answer is that your hot leads are coming off each end of a center tapped transformer that provides 220 Volts across the two ends of the transformer wiring and either end to the center tap (which is neutral and also tied to ground) provides 110 Volts. To be properly wired, the outlet must have each hot terminal connected to opposite ends of the transformer wiring so to provide 220 across the two hot legs. Unless RV outlet posts have some odd circuit breaker mount, a 'twin' 220 Volt breaker will draw from the two different sides of the supply transformer.
You're pretty much correct. There are some RV's with 240v dryers. The power lines coming into your house typically have 2 hots and a ground, no neutral. A true 240v load does not require a neutral, just 2 hot leads. Within your house the neutral load of one side (one hot lead) will cancel out the neutral load of the other hot lead at your service panel assuming loads are equal. When there is an imbalance, more load on one hot leg, the neutral load is carried back to transformer via the ground line.
240V or 220V should be banned in most RV power supply discussions...it's confusing. Just because the receptacle in the shore power pedestal looks like your dryer socket, the electricity accomplishes different supply once it enters the dryer vs. your RV.
Think of your RV supply as having 2 seperate 120V wires that supply different portions of the RV, front half and back half in simple terms. While most 50A breakers are tied, if you could switch only one off, half your RV would loose power, but a dryer would only get half the voltage necessary to operate...bad news!
Electricians have wired a 120V, 50A RV receptacle incorrectly because it looks like that other, larger voltage supply they are familiar with...again, bad news.
Forgot to mention, the cable is fatter because it has 4 #8-#10 wires vs. 3 #10-#12 wires.
I think you're confusing the 30 amp 120v cord with the 50 amp 240v one. It's the 30 amp cord that looks like the old 3 wire 240v dryer plug. Electricians have wired the supply for 240v, 2 hots, ground and no neutral. That will destroy a 30 amp rv since it's expecting 30 amp 120v, 1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground. The 50 amp supply is a 240v supply, not 120v as you said.
The fact that the 2 hots of a 50 amp connection feed different circuits in the RV is no different than what happens in your house. If you have a gas clothes dryer and stove it's likely the only 240v load would be central AC unit. Everything else is 120v running off one of the 2 hot legs. 240v is not confusing, it's better that people understand the differences between a 30 and 50 amp supply than to assume they're all the same. That's when problems happen.
Some of that depends on the chassis. Ours is a Workhorse W22, 22.5 rims, so it sits higher off the ground than some other chassis do. In some cases I have to add wood blocks under the jacks. Then you run the risk of lifting the tires off the ground which isn't the best idea, especially the rear tires. I have lifted the tires off the ground, placed blocks off under them then lowered the MH down until the tires are hitting again.
That's not typical, most RV campsites aren't that out of level. Driveways, well they vary a lot.
SO, mayybe closing it right may solve my whole problem? I have seen a few videos but they are all a bit different. Any suggestions on a good one?
From there, I need to ask, should the sliding arm rest on that shoulder/set screw at all when closed?
Yes it should set on that screw. That's it's purpose, to adjust the height so the upper arm goes above the lip of the upper bracket and closes tight against it. If you look you see there are multiple holes int the lower arm so the shoulder screw can be set at the correct height to hold the arm up.
As others have said, your awning is not fully closed and locked in at the top. I described in my previous reply how the upper arm should be tight against the upper bracket.
Are the 2 arms sliding together properly? The lower arm should slide easily inside the upper arm when closed. Put the posts back where they were and close the awning. check the alignment of the 2 arms. If not aligned properly it will prevent the awning from closing all the way. I had to adjust my upper brackets, they will slide side to side a little if you loosen the bolts. My arms weren't aligned top to bottom, now it closes easily. Also, if the material is old and drying out it can pull the awning out of alignment.
I replaced my awning fabric because it was tearing and shrinking. Had to fight with it to get it closed. After replacing the fabric it took a while to get the arms aligned and the material centered in the upper track. It was worth it though, it operates like a new awning now.
I replaced ours last year. All the water holes around the top ring were clogged with mineral deposits. Same issues you faced. Original PEX water line was on opposite side of toilet. I used a SharkBite fitting to connect the PEX tubing I had to cut.
Occasionally opening a T&P Relief Valve, allowing water to flow under pressure and then letting it SNAP closed keeps scale/crud from building up.
T&P Relief Valve MFGs recommending 'exercising' at least once a year
True. A single lady camped next to us wanted to know about replacing hers because it dripped. I suggested as a first step that we open and close it a few times. It was already leaking so what harm could it cause? That fixed it, at least for remainder of the month we were there.
That post does align the top of the arm with the bracket when closed. If it closes properly you should be good to go. What may have happened is the previous owner let the arm fall and hit the post when lowering the awning. Previous owner of our MH did that. I can see where the post is bent down slightly and paint is chipped off around it. There are 2 rubber bumpers on the outside edge of the top bracket. When the awning is closed the upper arm should rest against these bumpers.