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 > Your search for posts made by 'Hank MI' found 68 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Interior Frig Fans

Outside air temp between 65 and 95 low to high. After 24 hours; Freezer is 0 and fridge is +23 at 65 outside 7am Freezer is +12 and fridge is +50 at 95 outside 3pmAny fans? An inside fan, as discussed here, may help lower the fridge temp. An exterior (behind the fridge, to move air upward through the hot parts) fan may help the overall cooling. That is with an interior fan just like in the photo except not blue. Also, I have a fan behind the fridge with a thermo switch to turn on at 80F. I don't see how a inside fan is going to aid the freezer though. The sensor is on the cooling fins in the fridge. Without air movement they may be cold enough to turn of the cooling unit. A fan will move the air around making the cooling unit run longer as it's now trying to cool the entire fridge instead of just the cooling fins. As I mentioned, we had frozen eggs on the top shelf, warm beer on the bottom and mushy ice cream in the freezer. With just the cheap little fan everything in the fridge was nice and cold and the freezer items were frozen solid.
Hank MI 09/28/16 06:24am Tech Issues
RE: Interior Frig Fans

No interior fan is going to make a fridge cooler. It is going to cool to the thermostat setting, fan or no fan.No, and yes. The thermostat sensor (on my Dometic, anyway) is mounted to the cooling fins, so that's the temperature it senses. That's about the coldest spot in the fridge, because that's where the "cool" comes from. It's warmer at the bottom if there's no fan to move the air. With a fan circulating the air, the temperature is very consistent throughout, and most of the fridge is colder than it would be without a fan. Agree, you need to move the cold air from the cooling fins to the rest of the inside of the fridge. Compressor type fridges have fans to circulate the air, absorption fridges need the same.
Hank MI 09/27/16 04:51pm Tech Issues
RE: ATT doing away with satellite TV

The author took several soundbites and pieced them together to form a "story". There's too much invested in current satellite technology to abandon it by 2020. And wireless has not advanced to the point of being able to ubiquitously replace satellite. The day will come, yes, but not by 2020. AT&T and Verizon have both announced "5G" plans, but there are a lot of logistic hurdles to be solved. AT&T is not going to abandon the market they purchased through their acquisition of DirecTV until there is a replacement available that is suitable from a technological and price perspective. I don't see that happening by 2020. I switched from AT&T Uverse back to Comcast earlier this year. AT&T price went up a lot. The only deal they had to offer was to switch to DirecTV. Our son had the same experience with them. Why push people off UVerse to DirecTV if you plan on eliminating it?
Hank MI 09/27/16 04:43pm Technology Corner
RE: Screen removal

I think you push it one way or the other to the side and it will pop out of the frame. try pushing it in the direction that will allow movement. That's what I said too. Have to push it over to the side. They're spring loaded just like the slider except the springs are on the sides instead of the top.
Hank MI 09/26/16 05:05pm General RVing Issues
RE: Screen removal

Okay, ours are crank out on each side of bed. Slide up/down on ends of the main slide out. These have a screw through the bottom of the inside frame going into the screw. As I recall, after removing the screw, you can slide the screen up and then over to one side to swing it in. Of course yours may be different.
Hank MI 09/26/16 03:52pm General RVing Issues
RE: Interior Frig Fans

We have the little white fan that uses 2 D cell batteries. With the fridge well stocked some eggs on the top shelf froze and the drinks on the bottom shelf were too warm. Stuck the little fan in the back corner of the bottom shelf and it did the job. Even temp top to bottom even when the fridge was pretty well stuffed. The 12v type would be nice. I bought the cheap battery one while on the road for a month.
Hank MI 09/26/16 03:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Screen removal

Are they crank out, awning windows? On ours you have to remove the crank handle then pull down the spring loaded pins at the top of the screen and swing it in.
Hank MI 09/26/16 03:15pm General RVing Issues
RE: 1/2" pex is not 1/2"?

1/2" PEX pipe is 1/2" CTS (Copper Tube Size), the same OD as 1/2" copper tubing. PEX push-on fittings are usually marked that way. Yup, have the same tubing in our MH. Sharkbite (1/2" Copper, PEX, CPVC) fitting worked perfectly.
Hank MI 09/26/16 03:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Awning rail adjustment

The roping inside the awning material should be wrapped over end of roller tube. That prevents the awning from shifting on the tube. Screws through the gutter prevent it from shifting in the gutter. Easy to remove the screws. Open the awning and leave the ratchet in the down position. Now lift up the ends of the roller tube, tighten up the upper arm so it holds the roller tube up. This will take the weight off the awning and make it easier to slide in the gutter. I just replaced the material on our 8500 awning. The rear arms were binding and wouldn't close. Even with new awning material they were still binding. The brackets holding the awning at the top have slotted holes. I had to loosen the lag screws and adjust the brackets front to rear so the two arms came together properly. I didn't put the screws through the gutter and into the awning until everything worked smoothly. Works like a dream now.
Hank MI 09/20/16 06:17am General RVing Issues
RE: Slide Question

Were the hydraulic levelers down? The manual for our MH says the levelers should always be down before extending slides. The chassis can twist some and cause the slide to bind. The levelers should keep the chassis straight and level.
Hank MI 09/20/16 06:02am Beginning RVing
RE: any good advice about towing a car

Lane changes, just watch your mirrors and leave plenty of room. Small towns, not really a problem unless you're trying to find a place to park the rig. Going slow, not much you can do about it. If you're really holding up traffic try to pull over and let them pass or let them deal with it. If you're doing the minimum speed then you're not doing anything wrong. Traffic from on ramp. If you're in a bigger city with lot's of traffic, get out of the right lane. Hopefully it's at least 3 lanes so stay in the center lane. If not you may be doing some panic braking because a lot people make very little effort when merging, they expect you to make room. I watch the ramps when coming up to them, if I see traffic coming on I get over. Like I said, bigger cities with lot's off ramps, get out of the right lane. Know what you're getting into. Don't pull into a place unless you know you can get out. You can't back up more than a few feet when towing a car. Maybe a little more if everything is perfectly straight in line. I pass up a lot of gas stations because I know or think I might have a problem getting out. Aside from backing up it's pretty much the same as driving the motor home without the car. Even when not towing I'm careful about where I pull into. I leave more room when changing lanes when towing but everything else stays pretty much the same.
Hank MI 09/17/16 02:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: A novice's question about towing a car behind a Class C

The GVWR is with the camper FULLY LOADED for travel plus the weight of all passengers and any water you will have in the tanks. SO what is the dry weight of your new fuse. The dry weight subtracted from the GVWR will tell you how much payload you are allowed. The GCWR is the combined weight of the FUSE and what you are towing. I THINK you will not be able to tow either vehicle and will be way OVER the GVWR when loaded for a trip. Ask the dealer what the dry weight of the FUSE is if he will not tell you call Winnebago The GVWR has nothing to do with towing capacity. It's the max weight the chassis can carry. IF the MH is loaded to GVWR then yes he can tow something weighing up to 3,140 lbs. If his loaded weight is less than GVWR then he can tow more. Knowing the loaded weight of the MH would be helpful. Then subtract that from GCWR and that's how much the MH can tow. Assuming the hitch is rated for that weight.
Hank MI 09/15/16 06:41am Dinghy Towing
RE: AC in hot days

Some basement air has two compressors. Are they both running? May need 50 amp service. Definitely check to make sure both compressors are running. If you have power monitor panel you should see the amps jump up when the 2nd compressor kicks in. As mentioned replace the filter and check the duct work. On ours the duct runs from the unit up behind the rear cap to the roof vents. Have heard the duct work can separate and all your cold air blows outside. We have basement air, 35' Winnebago. Returned from a trip to the Black Hills and Yellowstone in August. Temps in the mid even upper 90's most days. Running the gen and AC on the road we had to turn the temp up because it got too cold. So they work, just make sure it's working as designed.
Hank MI 09/13/16 06:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Smart RV products / Frig Fix

We had eggs freeze on the top shelf and warm drinks on the bottom. Bought a cheap fan to move the air inside the fridge. Uses 2 D cell batteries. It works, everything in the fridge at same temp and plenty cold. A permanently wired one would be nice but the little battery one works well.
Hank MI 09/08/16 06:03am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: something was wrong

What altitude were you at? High altitude, going up grade may be normal.
Hank MI 09/06/16 06:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Synthetic oil questions

One advantage to synthetic oil is they it withstand higher temps than dino oil before it starts to break down. We all know that MH engines are usually running pretty hot. The water temp may be ok but the engine internals and oil will typically be a lot hotter than a car engine due to the heavy workload. A case of Mobile 1 at Costco, with a rebate, is less than $30. So for less than $5 a quart, 7 quarts plus a filter you're looking at $40 for an oil change. A dino oil change would be around $20 I guess, haven't bought dino oil in a long time. I'll spend the extra $20 at least once a year and stick with synthetic oil.
Hank MI 08/31/16 06:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fridge pilot goes out

Do you have a pilot light or an ignitor that lights the gas when needed? Either way clean out the tube coming off the gas valve. It's likely full of rust particles. Also tap on the stack going up above the flame to knock any rust loose. If you can remove the gas tube that would be good or you can used compressed air to blow it out. We had the same problem on our previous MH. After cleaning it ran perfectly.
Hank MI 08/31/16 05:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Suspension upgrades needed

Looking at the Goodyear inflation chart I would have to say that you divide the weight of that corner on the rear by 2. If not then you would have less load capacity from a dual setup than a single. Part of the sway when going slow is from the anti-sway bars. They work great on the freeway or when corning. When going slow and hitting a bump with one tire the anti-sway bars will push the MH to the other side. The anti-sway bars try to keep both wheels the same distance from the chassis. It's a toss up, heavier anti-sway bars or lighter ones. A MH has a high center of gravity so you need strong bars on the freeway or when cornering. The down side is more rocking when going slow and hitting a bump or pothole. It's never going to ride like a car. Workhorse did upgrade the front anti-sway after 2003, ours is a 2003 as well. They changed from a 2" square tube to 2.5", The rear should already have a 2.5" bar. They use to sell the bar and brackets as a kit. Now you have to buy the bar and brackets separately so of course it costs more. UltraRvProducts sells the parts if you're interested. Heavy duty rear sway bar with polyurethane bushings will help with side to side rocking, as will upgrading the rubber bushings in the front sway bar to polyurethane. I agree with BluegrassBill, the shocks are likely worn out and Bilstein and Koni both make good shocks. I would run all the tires at 100 psi and see how it rides. The W22 chassis has square anti-sway tubes bolted directly to the leaf springs, no bushings, not the more conventional round torsion bar. 100 psi all around will make it ride lock a rock, not a fun ride. The bouncing does sound like it's time for new shocks.
Hank MI 08/30/16 03:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electrical Problem

On our previous MH power to fridge was daisy chained off the outside outlet. Found that outlet burnt and cracked when we lost AC to fridge.
Hank MI 08/26/16 06:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: No-Start Class A

Had the same issue on a 94 Bounder, P32 and 454. Had side post battery connections. The plus side had a brass post in it so several cables could be bolted on the end of it. That post was nearly stripped out so not making good contact. Replaced it and all was good. Don't know if you have the same setup but worth mentioning.
Hank MI 08/25/16 03:37pm Class A Motorhomes
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