RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Hank MI' found 78 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: House Keeping

We had a leak in our previous motorhome. I used a mix of Oxyclean and water. Dabbed the solution on, scrubbed it, then used our carpet cleaner to spray clean water and suck it out. Our carpet cleaner has a hose that can be used for upholstery. Came out looking good.
Hank MI 06/28/15 05:10pm Beginning RVing

Everyone sure does things differently. I find it interesting that some drag out and hook up the hose each time they dump rather than leaving it set up for the duration of the trip. I set it up and leave the grey tank open until the last night, nothing worse then the tub filling up before your shower is over. To each his own as long as this does not turn into the people who stick their water hose into the sewer hose to rinse it. Be careful when doing this as you are making your gray tank a vent for the sewer system. Sewer gasses backing up in your tanks is probably not a good idea. Both the black and gray tanks have vent stacks through the roof just like a house. Any gasses will vent there not into your RV.
Hank MI 06/26/15 05:39pm General RVing Issues
RE: Towing weight limits

As mentioned, what is the hitch attached to, that would be my concern. A gas chassis, as supplied from the chassis builder, is typically not as long as the motorhome. The motorhome builder will weld frame extensions to the rear of the original chassis. These extensions are seldom as strong as the original chassis rails and obviously not a continuous solid rail. We have a 2003 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U on a Workhorse W22 chassis. Big difference between the frame extensions and the Workhorse frame rails.
Hank MI 06/26/15 06:53am Dinghy Towing
RE: Is this the start of Workhorse again? Isuzu?

As they say, torque is real and can be measured, HP is just the result of a mathematical formula.
Hank MI 06/26/15 06:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best way to clean an awning.

I used dishwasher, not dish washing, soap. It doesn't contain bleach but is pretty strong. I'm not a fan of using bleach unless it's really necessary. The dishwasher soap did a fine job on our ours.
Hank MI 06/25/15 06:58am General RVing Issues

...CG Rules Makes it easier for maintenance workers.........mowing grass, cleaning up... One campground we stay at claims that. Problem is they never come near the motorhome for mowing or cleanup. As mentioned, if elevated it's more likely to drain. If the hose drops to the ground then has to raise up at the sewer connection it can build up a lot of internal pressure when you dump 50 gallons of waste into it. That can causes connections to come loose or leaks to develop.
Hank MI 06/24/15 06:20am General RVing Issues
RE: Water Pump switches not working

"dsisemore1".....If you can't get the controller in time, simply disconnect the controller and hook the pump up directly with a quick connect wire. You can then just leave the pump on for the entire trip or turn it on when you get to your campsite. You don't say where you live....I carry a spare. Controller on our previous motorhome failed. I made up a small cheater wire to bypass the controller. I kept it in the bay with the controller after installing a new one. Your pump has a built in pressure switch so it will only run when it needs to supply water so bypassing the controller is not a big deal.
Hank MI 06/24/15 05:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: window sealant

...Once you're done, get some pure silicone (clear) in a tube and run a bead along the top of the window and down both sides about 6". Make sure the surface is clean. DAP makes a clear sealant, not a silicone. I removed most of the windows in our previous motorhome. They had a rubber seal between the frame and wall so I didn't need any messy caulk. I used the DAP sealant when I reinstalled them. The dap sealant stays clear and clean much longer than clear silicone which tends to turn yellow/tan as mold grows in it. Just a suggestion.
Hank MI 06/20/15 05:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: License Plates??

Well you got the answer, FL requires current plates. Since your trailer will be there year round you may qualify as a FL resident. If you spend 6 months in the state you're a FL resident. As a resident you don't have to pay the 13% tax on the site you're renting. At the campground we visit many of the people rent the site for 6 months, Adding a few months doesn't cost anymore because they save the 13% tax. This assumes they were already staying for the peak months, most expensive, and the extra months are not peak and a lot less expensive. Where we stay Feb is the most expensive and cost more than twice what some of the non-peak months go for.
Hank MI 06/19/15 06:05am Snowbirds
RE: dc power

Not sure I understand all your readings. We had a relay fail (engine battery) on our previous motorhome. You could hear it switch when the battery was turned on or off but it would no longer latch in the on position.
Hank MI 06/18/15 07:20am Tech Issues
RE: RV Pad Ideas

I built a simple 2x6 frame 36'x 12' buried about 4" underground, leaving 1-1/2" above grade, rolled out landscape fabric, then filled with gravel....It's neat, clean, and no weeds, the 2x6 needs to be pressure treated. If you want photos just ask... Sounds just like what I did. Later we removed some 6x6 landscape timbers so I laid them inside and flush with the 2x6. I needed to get rid of the timbers so I thought that was a good use for them. Everybody mentions gravel, not sure exactly what type of stone/rock you're referring to. I had a load of crushed rock dumped on the pad. Crushed rock is very stable once it's laid down. Smaller gravel/stone will shift around under the weight of a motorhome.
Hank MI 06/18/15 07:06am Tech Issues
RE: Question for you plumbers

Teflon tape is not a sealant like pipe dope/sealer. It just allows the threads of the pieces to slide together easier, as mentioned without galling. End result the 2 surfaces seal together better with less force required. Use it, sparingly.
Hank MI 06/16/15 07:17pm Tech Issues
RE: '03 Winnebago Adventurer questions

Clay L, is the anti sway bar a square tube? I don't see a conventional round shaft but a square tube near the end of both the front and rear of the front leaf springs that goes from one side to the other. I have to assume that is the anti sway bar/stabilizer.
Hank MI 06/16/15 07:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Southwind not starting

Do you have power to the dash and ignition and no cranking or is everything dead?
Hank MI 06/16/15 07:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: '03 Winnebago Adventurer questions

Well now I have to see what size swaybar I have while searching for the HWH level sensor, thanks for the tip.
Hank MI 06/16/15 06:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is this the start of Workhorse again? Isuzu?

Looks like the current gas version of PSI 8.8L is rated for around 550 Lb-ft torque max. http://i.imgur.com/1pOsqTn.png PSI brochure indicates that the block is capable up to 1,000 Lb-ft. http://i.imgur.com/ZQO9F9nl.jpg "border=0" http://bit.ly/1CIRlV8 The Ford 3 valve V-10 with the Banks Power Pack and Five Star tuning can achieve about the same Torque Lbs and more HP than the stock 8.8 And I bet there is no after market HP improvements for that 8.8 motor.. FORD RULES AGAIN.. :B So it only costs a few grand to get the V10 to perform like it should.
Hank MI 06/16/15 06:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: knock sensor location

Not sure on the 8.1, guess I could look at mine. On the 7.4 they were in side of block, below exhaust manifold. Look for a can maybe 1.5" screwed into the block with wires attached.
Hank MI 06/16/15 06:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone have a wife who overpacks motorhome?

When we head to FL for a few months in the winter I have to remind my wife that they have stores in FL. It's nice to arrive and not have to run out to the store right away but you don't need a 3 months supply.
Hank MI 06/16/15 06:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: DC Electrical Problem. HELP !!

Your batteries are charged by the converter/charger. It runs off 120vac, works the same on shore power or generator.......try to charge each one individually. In his first post he has four 6V batteries. As I suggested earlier disconnect one pair and charge one set at a time using your jumper cable around the blown fuse. I didn't say it, should have, but I meant to use a battery charger to try and charge them not the converter. Most chargers have a meter and you can quickly tell if 1 of the batteries is taking a lot more amps than the others.
Hank MI 06/15/15 06:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Start up electrical fault

Sounds to me like you have a high resistance connection in the negative side of the battery to frame/engine. do a voltage drop test at each connection see where the connection is loosing ground. It is making ground until you place a load on the connection. Yes, these can be intermittent. Why do you say negative side? A bad connection on either side will act the same.
Hank MI 06/15/15 06:28am Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS