I give the OP a lot of credit for hanging in there; this is a typical long and winding road thread on charging. Most people slink out of the room, sorry they asked. :)
It is too bad that there is so little useful documentation available for the PowerMax units anywhere, including Bestconverters.com.X2
These threads always get way more technical than what most need or want to know.
Most will be happy with basic info, of what will do a decent job. The perfectionists will go for the last 10% at great effort... Good for them. I will take a nap instead.:B
As far as the WFCO. Most everyone has trouble with them not switching modes.
Mine was stuck at 13.6 volts. I did the wiring upgrade that the perfectionists recommended. It was a waste of time, no improvement.
I talked to Randy at Best convertors, and he suggested a Powermax 55 replacement for my WFCO 6500. Said that I wouldn't miss the 10 amps at all.
He was right. The Powermax has been flawless in my book. It does all the modes (13.2, 13.6, 14.5) reliably. My batteries no longer cook in the AZ heat, and the charging performance just works.
Good enough for me.
After 55 years of driving I've never had anyone tell me that my tires had a problem because they were filled with air rather than pure nitrogen. Some folks can obsess about anything. I put 100k on a set of Michelin's that were on my '99 Dodge 3/4t. Finally had to change them out due to tread wear.
See, the air made the tread wear out fast.
Bet you could've got at least 120K using Nitrogen:B
"Do you want it to do float as well?
Are you willing to babysit it?
Will you have easy physical access to the converter?"
If I use the WFCO in addition to a free standing charger I assume the WFCO could do the float even though it's so inadequate in other charging modes?? My WFCO would never go into float.. That is why it was replaced. It never went into bulk either, but I could live with that under my usage.
Yes, I'm willing to baby sit it.
I'm not certain about the ease of access. I purchased the TT out of state and haven't taken possession of it yet, so I can't go look at it. I did inspect it before buying but don't recall the location of the converter.
Be careful. TT frames are all over the map strength wise. None of them were designed with a self leveling system in mind. I do think it may be possible to do it, if your TT has a stout frame. I would lean towards the 6 jack systems to better distribute the weight.
Weight wise, you could probably make a 1/2 ton work... But that length is the deal breaker. A 3/4-1 ton will weigh a LOT more, and have stiffer tires/suspension better brakes, etc. All this will better control that long of a TT.
IMO Consumer Reports is nothing more than a paid poet. They report what they are paid to say or show.Any intelligent person wouldn't have this "opinion" NOBODY pays CR except their subscribers! I started this out with my opinion, that's what it is I have no proof of anything stated. I always find it funny the product selling well gets the worst ratings in their report. Maybe the product selling well doesn't need to advertise with them. Again, a intelligent person would KNOW that CR doesn't accept any advertising, and thus have a different OPINION.
I don't always agree with CR either.. But my reasons are more well founded. Sometimes their testing criteria doesn't have the same priorities as mine... IE; saying that a heavy duty truck has a stiff ride, or that a sports car has a low roof making it hard to get in/out of... But I do believe that they are fair in their testing, and what they say is generally true.
Good info, thanks. I have not tries the oven yes, but the water heater and stove work together. With the info you all have shared, I believe I will buy a sail switch and a new battery. The battery is 5 years old and it wouldn't hurt anything to buy a new one. Does anyone feel the circuit board could be the issue.The two most common problems are the sail switch and the circuit board. Sail switches are 7 dollars, that is worth a shot.... And if yours is as much trouble to get to as mine was, I'd replace it anyways... Be a bummer to have to remove it again next month when it goes bad. Circuit boards are about 100 dollars.... I would make that my last choice.
If you get a new one, buy a dinasour board. It has a diagnostic function that can really help pin point the problem.
If the battery and propane supply check out OK, I would try replacing the sail switch. When mine quit, I took it apart and checked the switch with a meter. It passed. So I reassembled it, and it still wouldn't work. Then I replaced the circuit board. Still no work. But the new board had a diagnostic function that indicated a sail switch malfunction Took it apart again, and got inconsistent readings with the meter. So I drilled out the rivet holding the switch together to find the inards falling apart.
Then was surprised to find that a new switch is only 7 dollars.... At that price, it is worth just replacing it after all the work to get to it. And it seems that it is often the culprit anyways.
I have driven a truck with ARBs front and rear.
It is awesome. You only engage it when needed, and it is solid lock.. All 4 wheels turning together. Naturally, this would cause handling issues if left on all the time. Just turn the switch off when it's not needed.
A conversion may not be as easy as it first appears. The entire hose/regulator assembly will sit lower. It may cause problems with the main hose being too long, and you may want to cut the hold down all thread to the shorter length to make it easier to deal with the shorter tanks.. If these mods are done, then switching back to the 30s would be more difficult.
Costco sometimes has the 30s really cheap.
If not, get them recertified. The one time you need more capacity, you will be glad you kept the larger tanks. And at selling time, the 20s would be a negative for some potential buyers.
Major, I noticed that you are pretty new here.
I want to give you a belated welcome to the forum.
Generators are one of the most discussed items here.
So unless it is a brand new product coming on the market, it has been discussed here, and almost always with some first hand testimony.
Great generators are thought by most to be the Honda and Yamaha invertor types. The Champion is making a pretty good case for making it a threesome.
Good ones are what I call the tweeners. Not nearly as loud as the contractor ones from the big box stores, or as quiet as the great ones.
They come with some nice touches for RV use and are really affordable in initial price. The Champion 3500 pull start and remote electric start are the most well known of these.
Then there is the rest, rounding out the bottom. Some may be a little better than the others, but as a class, they aren't considered a good fit for RV use by most.
The Boiley falls into this catagorey.
I am excited to be a new member of this forum. I am hoping to receive some helpful feedback from members who own and are familiar with the ProPride 3P 1400 hitch. I bought this hitch new in November of 2011. My TT is a 2012 Pacific Coachworks Tango 27BBS. I have had 3 tow vehicles since I bought the hitch and trailer new. I have had a few issues with the hitch and may still have issues with it. The first issue has been solved...the weight distribution jacks shifted on the TT a-frame and the set screws dimpled/compressed both inner walls of the TT a-frames. I wasn't at all happy about this. However, Sean from ProPride was helpful and sent me some steel plates to mount over the dimples. I was told that the dimples would not weaken the trailer frame. I had my RV dealer tack weld on the plates and I drilled some dimples in the plates to prevent the set screw from slipping. This created a solid contact point and enabled me to tighten the set screws enough to prevent any more WD jack slippage and movement...no trouble since.
Okay, fast forward a little bit. I have had trouble with every tow vehicle wanting to pull to the right side when towing the TT down the freeway. Sometimes it will want to pull to the left and occasionally it will track straight. I currently own a 2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4 and the vehicle does not pull when unhitched from the TT. I have had the TT axles aligned, hoping it would solve the problem but unfortunately, it handles exactly the same. Here is a description of the issues I am having:
1.) After further inspection of the hitch, I noticed that the ProPride hitch box is not square. It sits a little more than 1/8" lower on the curb side.
2.) With the hitch centered and the WD jacks all the way down, there is 1 1/8" between the bottom of the frame and the yoke on the street side and 1 1/2" on the curb side. This is a noticeable difference.
3.) With the WD jacks all the way down, the curb side spring bar binds on the spring bar link where the street side moves freely. This doesn't seem right.
1,2 and 3 sure sound like they could be problems to me.
Perhaps the photos that you sent Sean were not clear in what you were trying to get him to see.
I had that problem once with a quad rack. It took several tries at pics, before they understood the problem.
Often what seams clear as day to us, isn't for the ones we are communicating with.
4.) At full turns, the links on the main hitch unit rub on the TT safety chain mounting bracket which is mounted at the very front lower end of the TT a-frame. My RV dealer should have caught this during the installation. I had my dealer bend down the TT safety bracket in an attempt to provide sufficient clearance, however, it still rubs.
I am not sure if these things are normal or within tolerance of the ProPride hitch. However, I must say that I am not happy with the handling of the TV and TT. I would appreciate it if someone who owns and understands this hitch could give me some helpful feedback!
All comments are welcome and I will attempt to upload some photos!
Thanks and Happy Camping!
I have always reused them too.. But I am in AZ, the state with little to no corrosion.
In many cases, they are so badly corroded that removing them damages them.. I think that is where the practice of replacing them started.
I generally recommend that ones first WDH be a simple one, with the friction sway control added on.
My reasons are: The integrated as in the EQUALIZER or dual cam good, but adjustment needs to be spot on for both the WD, and sway control to work properly. This can be difficult for some newbies to master.
The old standard type WDHs can be installed way out of whack, and still provide some benefit. Naturally a perfectly setup one will work the best, but I have seen many of them that ere obviously far from perfect, and the owners were satisfied with the performance.
Later on as one gains experience, and the desire to dial it in perfect.. The other hitches make more sense
Mine have always been on the street side.
We don' use it a lot, but is handy for more than showering. Sometimes a dog will roll in something really smelly. He can be shampooed out side. Washing and cleaning small game, fish etc. And washing up after dumping.
I have never taken a shower with it though
Pretty much everyone agrees that the gas fridges are slow to get cold compared to our home compressor style ones.
It stands to reason that it will be slow to start cooling after being shut off for a time.... It is not a on off switch type process... Think about what that means when you have a fridge full of food, and its been turned off for 8 hours.
Ever wonder how GM arrived at 397 HP?
And how Ford always has nice round even numbers?
Simple, and has been proven before.
GM tested the Dmax for reliability and power, then dynoed it to SAE standards to see just how much power it makes.
Ford wanted a nice round number that would exceed the Dmax. So they tuned for a number on the dyno, but not to SAE standards.
Think about the difference between peak HP, and continuous HP.
The Ford can indeed make the advertised HP/TQ for a short time. Then the computer dials back the power to keep it from hurting itself.
The GM can make their lower HP/TQ much longer. Long enough to meet the SAE standards, and likely continuously.
So in effect the GM wins on the road,,, time after time.
I disagree... The last Ford power curves I've seen on the 6.7 PSD looked pretty darn flat to me.Fish, I expected that you would disagree.
But it is a FACT that the GM is the only one doing dyno testing to SAE standards.
The documentation has been posted here before. I know you have seen it.
Power curves are not what I am talking about.
And you cannot deny that the Ford numbers are ALWAYS nice round numbers, that just happen to be higher than GMs.
I remember a GM engineer being asked about why they came up with 397 HP, when a nice round 400 could have been achieved. His response was to the effect of:: We have done a lot of testing with the Dmax. 397 is what the number came in at, and we are comfortable and confident with that number.
There are really only two choices anyways. Since GM has consistently spanked the Ford in many tests, either the Ford is over rated, or the GM is under rated.
It would make little sense to under rate a truck, as that will cost sales.
But if you get a higher rating by any means possible, including loose testing standards, then you can advertise that rating, and many will believe it.