Have done the math and it is practical.
Older son is off-grid
Daughter has 6 to 7 kW and gets $50 and more back each month from El Paso Electric (one of the few power companies that encourages solar) even in heat of summer (Las Cruces, NM)
Brother-in-law has around 4 kW in Albuquerque.
Younger son has no solar since his house is entirely shaded with older trees.
We have been off-grid (land power) and generator for two years except for one instance.
Do the math. It is a real act and not merely a meme. You could put 750 to 1000 W on a small TT.
Reed and Elaine
Do the math again without the federal/state subsidies and mandates.
No electric company willingly pays a customer for their using solar.
And the landscape is changing. As power companies see more solar use, they are fighting their subsidizing it, and they have the support of non solar users in this fight, as they are the ones ultimately paying the tab.
I have worn out the chains on a previous hitch.
There are a LOT of factors involved as to how long a chain will last.
The chain actually moves quite a bit when turns are made. I had the opportunity to ride in the truck bed and observe the WD bars/chains when moving.
Usage, time, and types of roads will all have and impact on when a chain wears out.
Pretty sure the Honda fuel pump is vacuum operated. No need to run the carb dry, just drain the float-bowl with the provided drain screw. Chino
Those that have done the toggle switch mod told me that the on off swith controls both the ignition AND the fuel pump.
I want to do a solar setup on my new TT. One big enough to run the A/C.
I'm thinking of getting an inverter big enough to run the A/C, and just running the shore power cable to it when I'm camping. The problem I see with this is that the shore power charges the batteries which would eventually drain them. I need to know how to disconnect/turn off the battery charger when I'm using the inverter. OR
Is there a better way of hooking up the A/C to an inverter?For most, it is not feasable. Start running the numbers to see why.
Does anyone know if you will get any 120VAC POWER out of the companion twist lock connector if the generator is running by itself. I know you will get 120VAC @26.6AMPS if you have two generators connected together. Since I don't own the companion I don't know if you get any power at all from the 26.6AMP Receptacle.
The OP states he might want to get the companion first because of this 26.6 AMPS receptacle and I am thinking it will be a completely dead receptacle unless you have two generators connected together.
In other words you will not get 120VAC @ 13.3AMPS out of this twist lock connector using the companion generator by itself.
I may be wrong with this statement - just don't know.
The OP might want to know this before making his decision on which one to buy first. If it is a dead twist lock connector then you will only have one 120VAC 13.3AMP receptacle that you can use on the front panel of the companion generator.
Was hoping a companion owner on here would answer this question...
The schematic on page 69 here shows the 30A connected directly to the generator output.Yes the 26 amp plug is always live. I really wish my non companion had that receptacle as well.
As for the red vs blue debate... I have the reds and use the extended run tank... Which works well with the Hondas since they have a fuel pump. The Yamhas do not have a fuel pump, so operation with an extended run tank is finicky.
I do not think it is possible to wear the Hondas out..
And at the dog trials I attend, Hondas outnumber the Yamahas by a VERY large number.. Never actually counted, but 10 to one would a close guess. I do know some who have installed a toggle switch to turn off the Hondas fuel pump so they can run it dry. I use mine so much that it is a non issue for me.
My list, if I could remember it all would take many pages.
Insulated and heat taped all of the plumbing lines, along with doing the electrical upgrades necessary to run it all. Insulated the entire underbelly, and added anotherl heater outlet to it. I should have running water down to 40 below.
Welded up an outside storage bin that fits between the frame rails and rear bumper. An angle iron and expanded metal affair about 5'.6" wide by 12" deep and 10" long. Great place for rugs, assorted lumber etc.
Installed a Winegard Traveler sattelite dish. I have HD TV at the push of a button. By the time I crack a beer, the sattelites have been found. It automatically stows too, lest I forget. Installed 1.5" lift blocks to allow for real LT tires to fit.
Welded up some custom battery security brackets.
Had a custom pillow top mattress made. (surprisingly affordable)
600 watt whole trailer pure sine wave inverter with an automatic transfer switch... All outlets are live all the time. Very conveinient.
Extra stabilizer jacks mounted in front of the tires to stop frame "bounce".
Upcoming project: Upgrade 5200# axles to 7000# axles, springs etc.
Have done many little things as well.
My previous two TTs I installed onboard generators. That really made them sell fast when it was time for them to go.
I did it. It really is best done with 3 people, and they all gotta be on the same page. Removing the remanents of the old one is pretty staight forward.
If your roller endcaps do not have the slot in them that matches up with the roller, you can make it with a dremel and a drill.
You will need a ladder person to feed the fabric into the top slot, and another ladder person to pull it along, and he has to keep repositioning the ladder as the fabric advances. The lower person can walk back and forth pretty easy.
The goal is to feed the fabric into the upper wall track/slot at the same rate as the lower/roller side, It must be fed at the same rate, and care must be taken to make sure it enters the upper track smoothly. Getting off kilter will result in the new fabric snaging and tearing on the edge of the upper track.
We installed the fabric in the roller first and walked the roller along as we fed the upper rail. My awning was a one piece, a two piece may be easier another way.
Are you saying that you removed the roller?
It would be obvious when a non hub centric wheel is mounted to a balancer. Besides the obvious tire runout, the balancer will ask for 10oz or some huge number. Then you know to mount up the lug adapter. As for the drums, in most cases they are close to balanced anyhow and since they are a small diameter, a small imbalance wouldn't matter. Rims without tires are pretty close to 0 balance also. Besides, one of my drums has a small weight attached to it so someone balanced it. Do yourself, your camper and your bearings a favor and balance the tires. For heaven's sake it doesn't cost THAT much.Do not rely on the tire shop to know what to do. I use discount too. I have had to argue with them about using the lug centric plate. They hate to do it... Sometimes they do not have the right one, and have to go get it from another location.
On mt Blazer I fought a vibration for years. They once told me that my rims were bent. I finally read here about the lug centric rims on TTs, and thought that maybe that was the problem on the Blazer,,,, It was. It took a big argument for them to try it. But it worked!
Some things to consider:
Most TTs use lug centric rims. The center hole is not necessairly in the center of the rim. This means that if the shop uses the center pilot hole to mount the rim in the balancer, that it cannot balance the tire. In fact, it is very possible that balancing it that way will make it worse.
Most, if not all trailer drums are not balanced at all. So balancing the tires won't really gain you much there.
There is a on the vehicle balancing system out there. I have never seen one, so I think they are kind of rare... But if you use this system, then the it will be balanced no matter what rims and drums you have. The downside is that you cannot rotate or change a tire, or even remove it to service the bearings without making sure that it goes back on the studs in the exact position it came off from.
And then there is the percieved benefits.
The most common is better tread wear... But most TTs will never wear the tread out on a set of tires. They age out first. There is some thinking that there is a slight benefit to wheel bearing life. I doubt that it is enough to have a huge impact on the cost/benfit ratio though.
I did the math on this many years ago, and figured that forgoing paying for balancing over the life of a TT will easily add up to enough for a set of tires.
Many years ago when money was tight, A tire shop suggested to me that I could forgo balancing on the rear of my truck. He said that on a solid non steering axle, that I wouldn't notice any vibration. He was right.
Our TTs have solid, non steering axles.
I haven't paid to balance a TT tire ever. Often it is thrown in, after the price has already been negotiated down as low as possible... Then I ask if they will do that to sweeten the deal. They usually will... Maybe it is because I buy expensive tires though, and they don't want that sale to walk away. Oh yeah.. Don't be afraid to walk away. I have had them call me 20 minutes after I left with a much more generous offer than they were willing to do before I walked.
I've been towing for 47 years and have had only 1 personal incident. The truck in front of me threw blown tire debris. Swerving didn't seem the safe thing to do, nor was it an option at the time, so I hit it head on. The car got thru it OK, but it hit the trailer tire and blew it off the rim. Naturally, I knew it, but even still all passers alerted me to the problem during the minute or so it took me to get in the right lane and pull off the road.
Another time I was doing 65 and was passed by a truck towing a cruiser at about 75. I saw the trailer wheel was blowing black smoke (it wasn't turning) and layed on the horn to alert him (to no avail). I saw the tire / rim fly in the air 3 carlengths ahead of me and crash into the windshield of the 3rd car ahead of me. It caused the driiver to lose control and crash head-on into a tree at 65 mph. I waited till the ambulance came, so I don't know if the lady surviveed or not.
I am simply sick over the quality of trailer tires today. They don't last over 3 years, and the manufacturers warn you not to go above 65 mph. I personally follow that rule, plus I stop and check wheel bearings no more than every 100 miles. The 2 minute stop adds no time at all to the trip.
IMHO pulling a trailer at 75 mph is unacceptable. If anyone has a mishap it's fine to say you made it home OK. But that's not what is most important. The real issue is what damage you did (or could have done) to other unsuspecting drivers that had no responsibility for that flying tire.I agree with you about traier tires...That is why I stopped using them in 2006. My Michelins XPS ribs cost a pretty penny.... But they are simply in a quality tire that hasn't let me down. This incident was a prime example. No tire failures, in spite of being severely overloaded after losing one at more than 65 MPH! ST tires would have blown making the situation much worse.
The failure was a cartridge wheel bearing, similar to what come on most if not all autos today. There is no adjustment or greasing to do on them. As I stated before, the manufacturer has discontinued them. I really see little difference in a tire coming off at 70-75 or 67 MPH.. Both sitauations are bad. But you are welcome to your opinion, if it makes you feel better.
Bottom line is that sometimes parts fail. It can easily be the wheel bearing on a car that is not towing anything. It is rare, but it occasionally happens. Heck, wehave even lost a space shuttle or two... And tha $$$$$/technology put into those was the best we had.
One shouldn't stop living just because something bad might happen. If we were all perfectly safe, it would be a prtty boring existance.
And since I am OK with your opinion, then you should be OK with mine....Right?:B
2016 is a short run year with no significant changes. 2017 is the big revamp. This pic has not yet been disproved and has not been photoshopped. I hope this isn't it...
If that pic turns out to be the new Super Duty....
I'm gonna do the unthinkable...... Actually feel sorry and embarrassed for the Ford boys.:B
The "blowing cold air for hours" is concerning, I had an issue with my furnace not lighting, but after three attempts it would shut off. Your unit should have a similar feature, which if it continued to run would lead me to believe it thought it had ignited.
Not all furnaces have this feature. In fact I think it is a fairly new feature. My 2001 would do as he says. I had a regulator freeze up on it, starving the heater for gas. while we were asleep. The fan ran until the baterries were so low that the alarms started acting up.
My 2010 TT has the 3 attempt start feature.
Wow, great score!
Will the axles bolt up to your existing leaf springs? That would make the install pretty easy.
JeremiahTechnically, yes. But those are 2600# x 2 = 5200#
I am getting new 3500# x2 = 7000# springs as part of the deal.
UPDATE: I sent Lippert a email about the parts that I was needing. They responded that they no longer made the sealed bearing system, and that no parts were available. The entire axle would need to be replaced... (The ruined spindle was gonna require that anyway). They were offering to sell those of us with the affected units axles at a BOGO price.
I called them, and told them that I really wanted to upgrade while I was at it. Long story short, I am retiring my 5200# axles and installing 7000# axles, springs and brakes. They let me have a very good deal. Especially as the TT is 6 years old now. I wasn't expecting any help.
I will miss the maintainence free aspect of the 5200s, but I figured that if they pulled them off of the market that fast, that there must have been a lot of problems with them. The Dexter system looks suspiciously like the same bearings... But I am leery now. If parts were to be needed on the road, it could be a major problem.
I am satisfied with the outcome of my "Lippert" experience thus far.
So long as the axles arrive as advertised, I would rate them an A+.
I take it you were washing the roof?
That is a hotly debated subject around here. At one time, Dicor specifically frowned on the practice... It was on the FAQ of their website. They did say that if you really wanted to, that Murphys (IIRC) was OK to use.
But people kept wanting to do it, and Dicor saw a Buisiness opportunity... They now sell roof cleaner, and reccomend frequent roof washing.
Of note here: Dicor doesn't make the roof material. It is made for them by Carlise. Carlise makes it for the commercial building market. On the Carlise website, they state that roof washing is NOT necessary.
I always thought that even though I don't wash it, that it was a harmless activity for those that did... In fact it may even let them find areas that need maintainence while they were doing it...
Well I guess I was wrong. One can actually damage a roof when washing it.
MIne rarely left 13.6 volts. I tried all of the suggested fixes of improving the wiring, and the tricks of turning everything on at once.. It was all a waste of time.
Actually though for my use, the 13.6 worked out OK... Except in storage. 13.6 is just too high long term. Especially in the Phoenix AZ heat.
I now have a powermax. It works great. DW is always concerned obout the changing noise levels ans it switches modes... Out WFCO never changed noise levels at all as it never changed modes.
She was used to that, and is have a hard time adjusting to a convertor that actually works like it should... I think I have her about halfway convinced now.:)
I also believe that with proper tow mirrors, set correctly and used routinely by driver and passenger that the whole issue of when wheel assembly came off would be a mute point because it would have been noticedI can't see the TT tires when towing straight on the highway.
They are UNDER the TT, and the dually fenders get in the way.
I find all of these armchair experts opinions hilarious. They were not there, but they are very sure of themselves... One even said that we shou;d have smelled it!!
Just how does one "smell" what is happening bhind hind them at 70MPH?
One vguy says that the tire came off close to home when we did the swerve manuvuer.
Another is sure that at our last fuel stopm, that a better inspection would have revealed the trouble... That was at least 150 miles prior
Obviuously, at least one of these "experts" has to be wrong!
Reality is they are likely both wrong.
They do agree on one thing though... This incident was somehow our fault.
No one is saying that it's your fault. But at least for myself I can say that yes that condition probably existed for at least 150 miles to get bad enough to separate the wheel from the spindle. And it is VERY LIKELY that you would have felt a significant increase in heat on that wheel at that stop. That bearing was going bad for a long time not hours but probably months. But Something tells me you dont routinely walk around and feel each wheel at fuel stops.
And if you dont want honest answers and hear what others with experience have to say probably best not to post this kind of story. If all you wanted was an echo chamber of sympathy this was a bad choice of venue to seek it in.
This is rich.... Just where did you get the idea nthat I am asking for sympathy? And I can seriously doubt that your experience level exceeds mine...
I probably tow more in a month than most here do in a year.
So no pity party for me... My main purpose in posting, if you were to go back and read/comprehend it was to share how well it towed when seriously injured.