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 > Your search for posts made by 'Huntindog' found 540 matches.

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RE: It's too hot! AC quit.

When I flush a system it’s professional grade flush solvents one way, then the other way then one more time, all with 120 psi. Each major component separate , ie: evap, condenser. Blow through till you can’t smell anything. Make sure ther is ample air flow through suspected parts, no blockage. Vac it down for 2 hours then check for leak back. 90% chance it will be good. And that means a 10% chance it won't. This is not a small risk, as a failure will mean replacing EVERYTHING again. AC is not an area where it can be "good enough". It has to be PERFECTLY clean. Anything left in the system will cause it to fail. Your money, your choice
Huntindog 06/20/18 04:19am Tow Vehicles
RE: It's too hot! AC quit.

Just curious Huntindog wouldn't any remaining flush solvent boil out when you put a vacuum on the system?No. Yes the liquid component will disappear. But it will leave behind a dry residue, which then will be carried thru the system with the refrigerent. The safest way to flush is to use a refrigerent flushing machine. But few have them as they are quite expensive. My GM shop manual states that this is the ONLY acceptable procedure.
Huntindog 06/20/18 03:16am Tow Vehicles
RE: Is my TT too big for long trips?

My first thought is weigh your trailer so you can accurately determine what your tongue weight should be. Once you have the correct TW you can set your hitch up properly. Your trailer is not too long. Your rig can deliver a relaxing tow. You have plenty of truck,but your trailer / WDH is not balanced. One of the cons of TT's is that the WDH needs to be set up properly and the weights dialed in. A fiver has other cons but in general they tow well right out of the box.We have a "WINNER!! Get the basics down first. I would be surprised if a 34' TT did not weigh more than your 8700 GVWR. You need a lot of TW.... Another point: Most if not all of the integrated sway control hitches rely on TW for the sway control. The more TW, the more sway control. I believe the straight line you state is also known as a dual cam,,,, that is one of the hitches that need TW for sway control. Another point, once you have checked the TW, is that the DC can be finicky on it's setup. It absolutely needs to be dialed in. There is a sticky here that goes into this in detail.
Huntindog 06/19/18 06:13pm Travel Trailers
RE: It's too hot! AC quit.

My advice? Having done this a few times is to replace EVERYTHING! If you try to flush parts, it can be impossible to be sure that you got all of the flush out. Flush is a solvent. Any left in the system will soon cause it to fail. You need everything, including the evaporator and condenser. Do it right, or do it twice. I've never had a problem flushing the Evap.Every time you do it, you are rolling the dice. It is impossible to know for sure if it is clean, or if there is ..... stuff still in it. It is a high stakes decision, as the price of being wrong can be astronomical. Evap is not hard. I have a flush can that you pressurize and use a/c flush. It's a lot better than taking the dash all the way to the fire wall and then having to take the HVAC box completely apart to just get to the evap to replace. I've done it because of evap leaking but if it's not leaking I'm not changing it out.10 years of doing this with zero issues. I have flushed some as well with mixed results. Often you can still smell the flush, even after running 60 psi shop air thru it for an hour. If you have ever cut open an evaporator, it is obvious as to why it can never be flushed with 100% certainty. There are many passages the flush, or refrigerant can take. If a passage has restriction, it will simply use another passage..... leaving bad stuff in the evaporator. Once the system is up and running, the debri and or leftover flush contaminates the entire system causing a compressor failure, and requiring all parts to be replaced again. As I said before, it is a roll of the dice. I no longer take that bet. The price of the evaporator is usually less than 200.00, and the labor is whatever it takes.
Huntindog 06/18/18 08:35pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Max Tow F150s

It is simple. A 250 will generally have much better durability ratings than a 150...Really? I don't believe you. I think you're continuing to blow smoke (BS). Show me the durability rating for each. Whether you believe me or not isn't material. I am not buying a 1/2 ton truck, as I already know what those specs will show... Since I am not in the market now, I won't waste my time looking it up for you. You wouldn't believe it anyway. I will touch on what these ratings mean though. Duty cycle refers to what percentage of the time a unit can be stressed to it's max. The half life rating (it actually has a spec with some letters and numbers that escapes me at the moment) is a mileage at which half of the trucks will have needed a major overhaul, and half would go further. Many variables on this, but it is a good indicator of comparing X to Y for durability.
Huntindog 06/18/18 06:23pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Towing on a hot day

If I waited for it to cool off to under 100 degrees, I'd never tow in the summer from Phoenix. We routinely tow at 115, on occasion higher. And we gotta make time. Often we are carrying temperture sensitive cargo, so we need to get up to the cooler country fast. A stout TV, and LT tires make it happen for us.
Huntindog 06/18/18 05:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: Max Tow F150s

Every mechanical and electrical item will have some sort of life/duty cycle, and even living organs and body parts will wear and degrade over time, and I can prove that...lol I don't get the point for that one. It is simple. A 250 will generally have much better durability ratings than a 150. Several here have mentioned how much weight they give the towing specifications... I think they are missing some important ones. With the price of these special 1/2 tons approaching or even exceeding that of 3/4 tons....I would want to know just what the durability ratings are for each. Now if I always traded before the warranty was up.... I wouldn't care.
Huntindog 06/18/18 01:50pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Max Tow F150s

That's were you're wrong. Most everyone here uses their truck 85% of the time going back and forth to work, 15% of the time towing a traier. Good news though, there are forums for elitist, smart ass know it alls. Well said... And if a F150 Max Tow was in my future I would simply order it. No big deal. Agreed.. But I wasn't willing to make a 55K dollar gamble on the chance that a HD F-150 would be sufficient to tow my camper. Because of course there weren't any HD F-150's I could rent to test tow, nor even a truck on the lot in all of the Houston area to test drive. This needle in the haystack effect was a contributing factor to going with the F-250. I was able to test drive a truck that the suspension and drive train was identical to what I ended up ordering. It's worth repeating... 3/4 and 1 tons aren't for everyone. I towed with a Ford Explorer for 10 years before I upgraded, and it's not even as stout as a modern half ton, but towed circles around my previous mid 90's F-150. Not everyone tows the same distances, in the same circumstances, with the same regularity. While visiting dealers, one thing I discovered about the HDPP trucks, they don't order them because few people know enough about them to ask about them. A lot of the sales personnel are clueless, and they using the term Max Towith as if it is the HDPP. I wasn't looking for one on the lots, but I was looking for the best deal when ordering. I got a $53,000 truck for $45,000 plus Tax/Title, and the dealer didn't resist my offer, because that was profit that wasn't coming until I brought it to them, as opposed to the truck already sitting on the lot. As for gambling on the HDPP being able to tow my trailer, the specs said I could, and reading about HDPP equipped trucks towing in the F150 forum, I was convinced it would tow. The only persons proclaiming it can't were guys with big trucks who either towed with some over burden, antiquated and old 1/2 ton, or guys who if faced with heavy towing, would never tow heavy with a 1/2 ton, and go straight to a 3/4 ton or larger, but proclaim it can't because they wouldn't. I'm not spending my dollars based on that. If the specs says I can, and people who are towing heavy with HDPP 1/2 tons are doing it, I'm rolling the dice on that. I've rented the gas 2/3 tons, and I know without a doubt I don't like those. It towed on flat land well, but I wouldn't want anything to do with it when not towing.Have you ever heard of Duty Cycle or Half life? (I do not recall the exact names/terms) They are ratings on durability. All of the manufacturers have such ratings. They don't push this out to the public, as it won't sell trucks or service, but with some digging, it can be found. They would be of interest to those that plan to keep their trucks after the warranty is over. With the price of these trucks.... I would want to know what those figures are. As for ordering a vehicle. I have always ordered mine. It is not always a smooth process. First the dealer Must have an allocation available for the vehicle you want. Then the wait begins. Many problems can delay it's arrival. I have waited over 6 months for one to show up.... And then it wasn't exactly as I had ordered it. I came very close to walking away from that deal. The dealer made some more concessions to convince me to take the truck. To this day, I have some remorse on that deal. Now the last two I ordered went smooth... Just know about the potential for problems. What will you do it your max tow / max payload arrives in 6 months without the max payload? What if you need the truck at that time?
Huntindog 06/18/18 03:14am Tow Vehicles
RE: It's too hot! AC quit.

My advice? Having done this a few times is to replace EVERYTHING! If you try to flush parts, it can be impossible to be sure that you got all of the flush out. Flush is a solvent. Any left in the system will soon cause it to fail. You need everything, including the evaporator and condenser. Do it right, or do it twice. I've never had a problem flushing the Evap.Every time you do it, you are rolling the dice. It is impossible to know for sure if it is clean, or if there is ..... stuff still in it. It is a high stakes decision, as the price of being wrong can be astronomical.
Huntindog 06/17/18 01:40pm Tow Vehicles
RE: do tire covers really make a difference?

Since I park my TT in a stand of pines, harsh sun is not an issue. If I had to park in the Phoenix sun, it would be must. It is the same with car window sun shades. Those that need them use them.Tires and covers are both consumable items. IOW, the Sun, especially in Phoenix destroys them...The sun will even deteriorate plastic PVC pipe. So it comes down to a math question. Are covers cost effective? Will they extend the life of the tires so much that the overall cost of tires and covers is less than just buying tires more often. Everyones calculation will be different. The more expensive the tires, the more that covers make sense. If one believes that ST tires actually DO have more UV resistant rubber as the tire makers state,,,, then the case for covering them gets weak, as ST tires tend to be cheaper. As always, your money, your decision.
Huntindog 06/17/18 02:57am Travel Trailers
RE: It's too hot! AC quit.

My advice? Having done this a few times is to replace EVERYTHING! If you try to flush parts, it can be impossible to be sure that you got all of the flush out. Flush is a solvent. Any left in the system will soon cause it to fail. You need everything, including the evaporator and condenser. Do it right, or do it twice.
Huntindog 06/16/18 02:01pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Max Tow F150s

Serious question: Why does almost every "1/2 ton question" thread have to turn into "just get a 3/4 ton" bullying session? Not everyone needs or wants one. But yet week after week threads get ruined because of the repeated bashing from a 3/4 owner/fan. OP is asking about a specific truck. Just like if it was a specific style of camper. Unless the OP is attempting something that is going to obviously put him/her in danger, why the constant attempt to "upsell" to what you think they should have? I am not a 3/4 ton proponent at all. I tow with a 1 ton dually crewcab diesel.. But as for the whys.... Just crawl underneath the trucks and see for yourself. And still..... This is a towing forum.... Major interest is in how well trucks perform that task.... Lots of other forums to discuss grocery getter tasks... I tow a LOT. There have been a few times I have been really glad I have more truck than many seem to think I need.... The thing is, it is like seatbelts.... You only need them for an instant... In that instant, you either have the capability, or you don't.
Huntindog 06/16/18 03:17am Tow Vehicles
RE: Max Tow F150s

This, among other things, is why I decided on a F-250. I understand it's not for everyone, but looking for the max tow and tow mirrors was like finding a needle in a haystack. The nice thing about the 250, was that they all had the tow mirrors, brake controller, and heavy tow package. Very true ! Anyone requiring the Max Tow/Max Payload package would probably be happier with an F250 for towing !You can't get the Ecoboost and 10 spd transmission in the F250; an awesome combination for a daily driver. So no, not everyone would be happier with the F250.As has been noted, An ecoboost with MAX Tow and MAX Payload AND towing mirrors is almost a unicorn..... For practical purposes, they don't exist.... So buying one can be an exercise in frustration.... When you finally do find one.... It will be priced very high... So high that a 250 will look a LOT more appealing. 250s are everywhere. A real HD truck that will perform better and last longer when towing... And since this is a tow vehicle forum.... Most everyone isn't here to discuss how well it does as a grocery getter. I am sure there are forums that make that a focus, if one wants that sort of info.:B
Huntindog 06/15/18 06:01pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Hensley/Propride owners -- Leaving trailer for maintenance?

You bring up a valid point about using ANY non standard hitch If the TT needs to be moved by another vehicle for any reason, be it service or a roadside breakdown.... You may find it diffcult to get it done. My TV has a 2.5 receiver... But I stayed with the 2" drawbar, because 1. it is rated the same as the 2.5", and 2. if I need to move it with another TV, it can be done much easier. In my case,(as in most peoples) there is zero benefit of the 2.5 bar, and some downsides. BTW. The reason the 2.5 bars are not generally rated higher is that the entire bar is not 2.5..... The drop/rise portion is 2". That is the limiting factor.
Huntindog 06/15/18 12:39pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tesla Semi truck unveil & test ride set for Oct 26th !

9% or about 3400 families whose financial future has now taken a dramatic turn for the worse, 3400 mortgages now at risk, and 3400 good families now are going to suffer..... As a result of Elon's failed leadership. The only possible path forward as I see it is for Elon to step aside, and let someone more suited to running a large production facility take charge. I seriously doubt that Elon's ego will allow this to happen. The future for the remaining employees doesn't look good.
Huntindog 06/14/18 04:22am Tow Vehicles
RE: do tire covers really make a difference?

I think they work, but that the dollar math is not favorable. I have used them. My Michelin XPS RIBS are a lot more money than what most use here. Still, in 2-3 years, the covers are shot. I have not replaced my last set. The short life extension they give me for the tires, is eaten up by the cost of the covers.... The math gets less favorable as the tires get cheaper. Besides, if you believe the marketing hype the tire manufacturers put out.....ST tires have superior UV resistance.... So covers would have less benefit on ST tires.
Huntindog 06/13/18 03:25am Travel Trailers
RE: Black Tank Leak From Over Pressure

Get that insulation out NOW!! It is like a wet sponge soaking your subfloor. This can destroy it in short order... And for all practical purposes, destroy the unit. Get it out and put some fans on it. Time is of the essence. It may already be too late.
Huntindog 06/10/18 08:03pm Travel Trailers
RE: Moving the jacks

I have raised every TT I owned. My present TT is 34'. It has been raised with lift blocks, a thicker spring pak, and larger tires. I go down some pretty bad roads with this setup. My jacks have never given me a problem, so I have never considered moving them. Personally, I am more concerned about the plumbing clearance than the jacks.
Huntindog 06/06/18 02:14pm Travel Trailers
RE: Best electric tongue jack?

I have been on this forum a long time. As I said, many Barker owners rave about their jacks... And they most always comment about the great customer service. At one time Barker was giving away covers for free.... It was a big topic on this forum, and bought them a lot of favorable good will here. But the issues I wrote about are real. In fact there are two reports of failures on this very thread. One of them had good things to say about the customer service, the other one just fixed it himself. You can take the reliability record any way you want to. But the actual design/construction differences and shortcomings of the front motor style jacks are not opinion at all. Any one can plainly see what they are, just by looking at a picture of the two different styles. I have never seen a report of an Atwood failure here.... That doesn't mean there haven't been any. But the Atwood design IS inherently less likely to have a problem. I do think that the Barkers are one of the better front motor design jacks.... Still.... The very BEST customer service is never needing it in the first place.
Huntindog 06/01/18 07:46pm Travel Trailers
RE: Best electric tongue jack?

This is a common question, and there are many threads on this. The common theme seems to be that the Barker owners are very attached to their jacks, almost all of them rave about the fantastic customer service. My take on that is that it can't be all that reliable if customer service is needed so much. That said, there are two basic designs. The front side mounted motor ie: Barker, Ultrafab etc. And the top mounted motor ie: Atwood. Most of the front side mounted motors offer a built in level on the top, which at least on some of them doubles as the plug for the backup hand crank. The front side mounts have many drawbacks. On many TTs using the backup hand crank will require either removing the propane tanks, or turning the crank 1/2 turn, removing it, turning it 180 degrees, reinserting it and repeat this process. Very inconvenient. My concern here is not the need to use the handcrank due to a jack failure so much as a dead battery Due to the motor being mounted on the front side it almost always will result in interference with the tailgate. A common solution is to rotate the jack so that the motor is on the side. But then the hitch light points in the wrong direction. The front side mounts also have several penetrations (holes) in the housing for the switches and backup crank that is a common source of water intrusion into the motor. This is so common that many have posted here that Barker has supplied them with a free cover for the jack. (this is likely the reason for the glowing customer service reports) This style of jack really needs to be covered, to eliminate the risk of water intrusion. Owners report that they can operate the jack without removing the cover by feeling the switch through it. But then the light is useless. Owners report that they don't use the light anyway. Probably because most of them have rotated the jack for tailgate clearance, so it points in the wrong direction. I would have a concern that the light switch would get turned on accidently and since it was under the cover go unnoticed and drain the battery. Then the hand crank would need to be used. See previous concern. If your TT has a front slide, then you may have to use a front side mounted motor as they are a little shorter and less likely to interfere with the slide. The top mounted motor, (Atwood) has no pentrations in the housing for water intrusion. So it doesn't need covering. The backup crank inserts in the front, so there is no propane tank interference. And the motor will not interfere with the tailgate. So the jack can point the light at the hitch where it is needed. The only complaints some have is they don't like the sound of the motor as much as some of the others. That's got to be a personal thing, as mine sounds like music everytime I press the button and it does it's work without me breaking a sweat. And I cannot attest to Atwoods customer service as in 18 years of use, I haven't needed any. I also haven't read about it here either. At any rate, look the features of both styles over closely and decide which one makes sense for you. Spend the money. Then enjoy it. I hope this helps.
Huntindog 05/31/18 07:09pm Travel Trailers
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