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 > Your search for posts made by 'Huntindog' found 745 matches.

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RE: Still Another Trailer Sway Story

I have raised all of my TTs... Three of them. No sway issues with any of them. I have been up to 95mph on occasion. I agree that raising the center of gravity may make a TT more likely to sway.... IF it is not set up right. You state that the TT is light on TW... How light? This alone can cause sway. Go over the basics, starting with the TW. The axle install could be a concern. Who welded the spring perches on? If the axle was manufactured with the perches set for an over spring install, and you just flipped them over using the same perches for a under spring install.... They are now upside down. This will definantly not help the situation. There is no reason that this cannot be made to work well... It just needs to be done/setup right.
Huntindog 02/28/15 01:20pm Travel Trailers
RE: deep cycle battery suggestions

Oops. I mistyped. I mean't 12 volts. Playing on a new computer, and trying to learn windows 8.1, seems to be taking all of my brain power.
Huntindog 02/25/15 06:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Where do you boondock.

Where do you get your water tanks filled while boondocking? I often find places on freecampsites.net so some places have water or I go to cheap places that may have water but no hook ups. Some $10.00 places may have central water and a dump station. I pulled into a Wendys/strip mall area in Florida and back by the parking lot they had a dump station and water. When I was more dependent on electric for charging I would go to a regular park every 4 days or so. Dump, water, charge, grocery. Some gas stations or stores will have water. I have also bought water at Walmart. Some free spots will have an outhouse which I will use. The wife has a hard time balancing while squatting with her feet on the toilet seat because she wont sit in there so she uses the RV only. One free place had central water and flush toilet and sink. Same place allowed burying black waste at least 6 in deep and 200 ft from any lake or stream.Where do you find places that will allow you to fill a 40 gallon tank? Do they charge? do you ask first?Often a business such as a propane dealer.. If you buy from them, they will often let you fill up for free.
Huntindog 02/25/15 12:43am Travel Trailers
RE: deep cycle battery suggestions

Because true 6 volt batteries are rare, heavy, and EXPENSIVE. Define rare and EXPENSIVE. Most are saying they buy 6 volt deep cycles for around a hundred dollars or the same price as 12 volt versions.Apples and oranges. I have never see a true 12 volt deep cycle battery for under 100.00.... They are hybrids. That includes the link to the Oriellys one posted previously. You won't find 12 volt true deep cycle batteries at most of the major auto parts stores, or the big box stores such as Wal Mart. Lots of people believe that those are deep cycle as the label on them is marketed as such... Weigh them. They don't have nearly as much lead as a true deep cycle. 6 volts can (which are DEEP CYCLE) be had well under 100.00 at sams and Costco everywhere. Trojans for slightly over 100.00. I have used both with great success.
Huntindog 02/24/15 11:38pm Tech Issues
RE: deep cycle battery suggestions

DP
Huntindog 02/24/15 11:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Registration

When I bought my TT in Ohio, I had my credit union handle everything. The payment to the dealer, and the AZ registration. When I went to sign the papers, the credit union had my AZ registration and temp plate for me. I took it with me to Ohio, put it on and towed it home.
Huntindog 02/24/15 04:53pm Travel Trailers
RE: Parkit360 CROOKS CROOKS CROOKS CROOKS

Businesses get far better shipping rates than residents do because of their volume. I often take packages to a business I have a connection with to save a LOT of money. So if the OP paid 80.00, then the business should have paid a lot less to ship it to him.... They are probably calling the excess "handling" which I call a made up fee for extra profit
Huntindog 02/23/15 07:36pm Travel Trailers
RE: deep cycle battery suggestions

I read these threads and have one foolish question. While I get the superiority of six volt batteries, why doesn't anyone mention that 12 volt batteries make expansion easier and possibly cheaper? If you can't get by with one? Add a second. Still not enough? Buy a third. Not everyone needs to go from two to four when going from two to three might meet their requirements. I am not saying three twelve's equal six sixes.Because true 6 volt batteries are rare, heavy, and EXPENSIVE. Most all RVers use the cheap readily available hybrid or marine/starting batteries. They are simply not in the same class as a true deep cycle battery... But for light users that camp with electric hookups, hybrids will work fine.
Huntindog 02/23/15 03:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Dehumidifiers

I have a Fridgadaire that works great.
Huntindog 02/23/15 02:52pm Travel Trailers
RE: CP3 in Ram verses CP4 in Ford and GM

There is a thread on the DieselStop forum about documented HPFP failures, been open for quite some time and there are not that many cases that are documented. I would think from this thread that the CP4 pump grenades on a regular basis but that's not the case; since GM and Ford outsells the Ram by several percentages points we are going to hear about more issues with these trucks. When you rely on fuel lubrication for the pump it just becomes necessary to use a quality fuel additive to increase that lubricity along with proper maintenance plus draining your water separator, don't wait for the idiot light to come on. JMO Got a 2015 Ford F350 Platinum CCDRW 4X4 on order after giving the Ram considerable test driving Odd, that contradicts what is said about ULSD by the manufacturers of these vehicles....no additives necessary....now understand, that's not "MY" stand, but I've read it about the GM/Chevy Ram trucks in their owners manuals...It's stated that IF ONE chooses to use an additive, THEN there is a recommendation, I believe for GM it's Stanadyne, (sp?) BUT again, I don't know about Ford, but when I owned Chevy that took ULSD, no where in my owners manual did it recommend using a fuel additive, in fact, in some manuals, it states, "no fuel additives needed"....same with Ram...it's there for the research....again, I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with using a fuel additive, BUT I see no where FROM THE MANUFACTURER that it is HIGHLY recommended, if recommended at all for one to use a fuel additive to help with lubricity to help keep the HFPF in great working condition....just saying, IF it was THAT important to the care of the injectors, fuel pump, etc.....to keep from having warranty issues with the fuel system...you would think it would stick out like a sore thumb in the manufacturers owners manual that fuel additives are a MUST......Haven't seen that. I would think that when BOSCH was doing R&D on their CP4 HPFP, part of the testing would have to take into consideration the lubricity of the USLD fuel and how it would affect the HPFP over a certain length of time, (at least 3/36)....I mean, they HAVE to cover themselves for any possible failures...So one would think that "IF" a fuel additive HAS to be used to maintain the integrity of the CP4 fuel pump....it would have been passed on to the manufacturer of the engine/manufacturer of the vehicle....but I've NEVER seen a "CAUTION", or a "YOU MUST USE", type of information in the owners manual that states you MUST use a fuel additive to maintain the integrity of our (BOSCH) CP4 fuel pump. Should have been thought out in the manufacturing process of the pump itself. ....and the water in the fuel, yeah, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know what can happen in that case..if water get's in, then yeah, big issue, but having owned diesels for almost 14 years, I've never had the first water issue to date...I know one can, but it never happened with any Chevy or Dodge/Ram I've owned... Again, someone show me where it is RECOMMENDED by the truck manufacturer that a fuel additive is a MUST....it HAS to be used.....I'm talking Ford, GM or Ram, and show where it states it's needed to keep the fuel pump lubed properly to help it last longer than the short time frames we've read about failures in...and for as much as it can cost, one would think the information to use fuel additives would be written on a sheet of paper and announced when vehicle is purchased. I know about all the other research and all the arguments on how ULSD needs an additive and how low the lubricity is, but again...that's "others" discussing the merits of fuel additives...heck, it's what they sell, what do you expect from them? I'm talking about the actual manufacturer/warranter of the vehicle.....what is THEIR take on it...If it was that important, I would think in an owners manual it would be stated to add a fuel additive "X" amount of times a year, a month, a week, at fill ups etc...not seen it...BUT that is extra money which manufacturers would have to pass onto the consumer....sort of like extra cost of DEF, BUT that isn't anywhere near as costly as adding a fuel additive every other tank fill up or more or less often...to me ONE would be too many.GM frowns on using additives in my manual. Interesting thing about Ford. They were (still are?) having the dealers make purchasers sign a paper about the use of their additive (PM22 ?) being mandatory. There were some other things such as mandatory draining of the water separator at very frequent intervals.I have seen these papers posted on the net. It seems that follow thru from the dealers was/is inconsistent on this. Since you have saw this document, and would know where to find it, please post it for others to see. When I bought my Ford, I never signed this document. I have never met any Ford driver who has signed this document you speak of. It does say in owners manual that one should drain the water separator, did in my Chevy manual too. It also says that if you want to use an additive, they suggest you use PM-22A. My Chevy said they suggested Stanadyne. It doesn't say it is mandatory you have to use PM-22A. On this document you speak about, what does it say is the consequences of not doing this? I fully understand you wanting proof but, It has been awhile. It was posted on several sites. IIRC, even here. A quick search attempt failed just now.. The Archive function isn't working. Norsky knows what I am talking about... I am sure that Fish could find it really fast, or confirm it's exisitence LOL... Not in this lifetime. Fish bleeds Ford blue, and would love to deny it's existence. I will try again later, as this search may take a while, and I will be too busy for a few days to play on the computer. Maybe some one else will have it posted by then. It was a very strongly worded document. As I said, not all dealers were making owners sign it. Likely as it had potential to cancel a sale. IIRC, the consequences of not following the instructions was a warranty cancelation. I found the fact that it even existed scary.
Huntindog 02/18/15 03:14am Tow Vehicles
RE: Replacing swollen wood on slide out bottom (outside)

Good thing you aren't having the dealer do the job. I have no idea what they are talking about. It almost sounds like they made it up.
Huntindog 02/17/15 04:41pm Tech Issues
RE: CP3 in Ram verses CP4 in Ford and GM

There is a thread on the DieselStop forum about documented HPFP failures, been open for quite some time and there are not that many cases that are documented. I would think from this thread that the CP4 pump grenades on a regular basis but that's not the case; since GM and Ford outsells the Ram by several percentages points we are going to hear about more issues with these trucks. When you rely on fuel lubrication for the pump it just becomes necessary to use a quality fuel additive to increase that lubricity along with proper maintenance plus draining your water separator, don't wait for the idiot light to come on. JMO Got a 2015 Ford F350 Platinum CCDRW 4X4 on order after giving the Ram considerable test driving Odd, that contradicts what is said about ULSD by the manufacturers of these vehicles....no additives necessary....now understand, that's not "MY" stand, but I've read it about the GM/Chevy Ram trucks in their owners manuals...It's stated that IF ONE chooses to use an additive, THEN there is a recommendation, I believe for GM it's Stanadyne, (sp?) BUT again, I don't know about Ford, but when I owned Chevy that took ULSD, no where in my owners manual did it recommend using a fuel additive, in fact, in some manuals, it states, "no fuel additives needed"....same with Ram...it's there for the research....again, I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with using a fuel additive, BUT I see no where FROM THE MANUFACTURER that it is HIGHLY recommended, if recommended at all for one to use a fuel additive to help with lubricity to help keep the HFPF in great working condition....just saying, IF it was THAT important to the care of the injectors, fuel pump, etc.....to keep from having warranty issues with the fuel system...you would think it would stick out like a sore thumb in the manufacturers owners manual that fuel additives are a MUST......Haven't seen that. I would think that when BOSCH was doing R&D on their CP4 HPFP, part of the testing would have to take into consideration the lubricity of the USLD fuel and how it would affect the HPFP over a certain length of time, (at least 3/36)....I mean, they HAVE to cover themselves for any possible failures...So one would think that "IF" a fuel additive HAS to be used to maintain the integrity of the CP4 fuel pump....it would have been passed on to the manufacturer of the engine/manufacturer of the vehicle....but I've NEVER seen a "CAUTION", or a "YOU MUST USE", type of information in the owners manual that states you MUST use a fuel additive to maintain the integrity of our (BOSCH) CP4 fuel pump. Should have been thought out in the manufacturing process of the pump itself. ....and the water in the fuel, yeah, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know what can happen in that case..if water get's in, then yeah, big issue, but having owned diesels for almost 14 years, I've never had the first water issue to date...I know one can, but it never happened with any Chevy or Dodge/Ram I've owned... Again, someone show me where it is RECOMMENDED by the truck manufacturer that a fuel additive is a MUST....it HAS to be used.....I'm talking Ford, GM or Ram, and show where it states it's needed to keep the fuel pump lubed properly to help it last longer than the short time frames we've read about failures in...and for as much as it can cost, one would think the information to use fuel additives would be written on a sheet of paper and announced when vehicle is purchased. I know about all the other research and all the arguments on how ULSD needs an additive and how low the lubricity is, but again...that's "others" discussing the merits of fuel additives...heck, it's what they sell, what do you expect from them? I'm talking about the actual manufacturer/warranter of the vehicle.....what is THEIR take on it...If it was that important, I would think in an owners manual it would be stated to add a fuel additive "X" amount of times a year, a month, a week, at fill ups etc...not seen it...BUT that is extra money which manufacturers would have to pass onto the consumer....sort of like extra cost of DEF, BUT that isn't anywhere near as costly as adding a fuel additive every other tank fill up or more or less often...to me ONE would be too many.GM frowns on using additives in my manual. Interesting thing about Ford. They were (still are?) having the dealers make purchasers sign a paper about the use of their additive (PM22 ?) being mandatory. There were some other things such as mandatory draining of the water separator at very frequent intervals.I have seen these papers posted on the net. It seems that follow thru from the dealers was/is inconsistent on this.
Huntindog 02/17/15 01:06pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Power stabilizing jacks

Wow, this thread shows that this is a real polarized issue. I will have to look at it a lot closer when I get ready for a newer unit.Happens lot around here. When slides were fairly new in TTs, there was a lot of back and forth on them. Then Power awnings took center stage. Now it is power jacks. As time goes on, people get used to the new conveinences and improvements happen to them, and most people end up liking them.. Of course there will always be a few that never will.
Huntindog 02/16/15 04:59pm Travel Trailers
RE: Continuous failure of TT wheel bearings - I am so ashamed...

Many of the replys here insinuate that alignment, toe in, or bad suspension and overload could cause this problem, which I'm saying this is not the case. Properly installed wheel bearings are designed to take any kind of overload pressure, side thrust, or any other kind of abuse imaginable. I mean, even if alignment was off so bad as to tear the tread off a brand new tire in 100 or 1000 miles, it would not even faze.....or over heat, much less ruin a wheel bearing. Now, if the 2 bearings in the same hub are out of align w/ each other, this will raise havoc w/ the bearings. This could be caused by the bearing surfaces on the axle not being machined parallel w/ each other, or the bearing bores in the hub not machined parallel w/ each other. I know, this is highly unlikely, but so is the problem the OPoster is having, and it the only answer I can come up w/. At any rate, I am sure this is not a suspension alignment problem.X2. These suspension are not all that high tech. There is a LOT of play in them. For one it allows them to twist in tight turns. But when going straight, they tend to self align due to the slop in them.
Huntindog 02/15/15 12:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Power stabilizing jacks

I love mine. They have a feature that the manual jacks do not. You can NOT rack the frame by uneven pressure like the manuals. They maintain equal pressure automatically. This can be really nice if you boondock off of pavement concrete etc. With my old manuals I would get it all set up to where it was solid and none of my doors were sticking, and a few days later the TT would have settled unevenly. The doors would start sticking meaning the frame was racked. I would have to reset it up again.. If it should rain, it was worse. Now with the elec. jacks, the TT still settles, but evenly. A quick touch on the buttons tightens it right up.
Huntindog 02/15/15 12:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: New trailer

We just got a new TT and looked at a WDH with anti sway control but it was not fit for backing. You had to unhook something or disconnect something in order to back up. What a pain. We ended up with a different on that works well. Just be careful which one you get. That's all I'm saying.This is a common internet myth. The truth is that the sway control reacts the same whether going forwards, or backwards. It is possible on some TV/TT lash ups to turn sharp enough to damage a friction control when going forward. It is more likely to happen when backing though. If one is careful not to cut it too sharp (an assistant can help) then backing will not cause any harm on any setup. Also some tests when it is first installed can determine just how sharp of an angle you can do safely. On some TT/TV setups, other damage will occur before the friction control is hurt.
Huntindog 02/15/15 02:18am Travel Trailers
RE: New trailer

We are looking at the wild wood 26 btss I think was the model. I'm going to check those sway bars out for sure as safety is always a concern. Since this is my first trailer any tips on setting up and what to have ? Thanks againOh Boy. You might as well ask which brand truck to buy. I will say that ALL of them have strong points, and weak points. Here is what comes to mind of what I weighed when making my choice. Dual Cam (AKA) Straight line. Finickey to set up right, often ends up with poor ground clearance, may require repositioning of propane tanks. EQUALIZER. L brackets tend to loosen requiring periodic tightening. Standard friction control. (many brands, all the same) The oldest design out there (maybe the first?) Lots of parts to hook up every time you tow. Have to be careful of potential clearance issues when turning sharp going forwards or more likely, backing up. Hensely/Pro pride. In rare cases has been known to destroy recievers due to what is called the "bump" Can be the most difficult/frustrating to hook up. Very high cost. These are the major brands and/or types, there are some others that are relative newcomers to the market. There is IMO, not enough out there to comment on at this point. They will all make some noises. Some will find that objectionable, and prefer one over the other because of it. I just turn the radio up.:B I only pointed out the negatives. They will all work. I will not go into what I consider the strong points of each. Many others will be along to sing the praises of their favorites and claim that theirs have no negatives. I have used the standard friction type, with good service and now have the EQUALIZER.
Huntindog 02/12/15 11:44pm Travel Trailers
RE: AC knocked while crossing door?

I'd loosen the mounting bolts, reposition, then put a sprinkler on the roof for a while to check for leaks. If you don't have any leaks and the unit is functioning okay, you're good to go.NO!!! Water can cause damage. Whether from rain, or a sprinkler. I would pull the unit, inspect the area for damage, fix as needed and install a NEW gasket. If you want to check for leaks, have the unit pressure tested. This is good. NEVER use a rain booth or sprinkler to check for leaks. Use a "pressure test". Yea, right. water only causes damage if not caught in a timely fashion. Most AC's can be slightly moved like what the OP had happen as long as they are bolted from the inside. The "tell" if the roof is probably damaged is the damage on the roof top unit. If it is creased or smashed in the odds are the roof material may be damaged. You can take the AC loose and lift up and easily inspect for damage. Then align and re bolt down. Unless the gasket is old and extremely compressed, there is no need to replace it. DougWell I gotta disagree. Using water to "check for leaks is ALWAYS a bad idea. One never knows just where the leak is, and where it will show up. Sometimes it can enter at one place on the roof, and run over to a wall and down the inside of it. You may not even see it if you are looking where you think it should be. So you could proclaim it good, only to have wall damage later on down the road... And that is just one example of what can go wrong. TO the OP... Though it is unlikely that you have serious damage, the consequences of being wrong are severe... I would remove the AC, and give it a really good inspection. LOOK, LISTEN, and FEEL the rafters etc, while someone else walks around on the roof. This will give you the best chance of discovering hidden damage such as a cracked rafter that will get worse when the unit is bouncing down the road. A fix NOW if needed will be MANY times cheaper than a fix later. Good luck, and let us know the outcome.
Huntindog 02/12/15 12:28pm Tech Issues
RE: AC knocked while crossing door?

I'd loosen the mounting bolts, reposition, then put a sprinkler on the roof for a while to check for leaks. If you don't have any leaks and the unit is functioning okay, you're good to go.NO!!! Water can cause damage. Whether from rain, or a sprinkler. I would pull the unit, inspect the area for damage, fix as needed and install a NEW gasket. If you want to check for leaks, have the unit pressure tested.
Huntindog 02/12/15 02:18am Tech Issues
RE: Someone got me/My truck good!

I agree completely about buying DEF in sealed jugs. The money savings of buying it at the pump with the volume we go thru is peanuts compared to the repair costs from possible contamination.
Huntindog 02/11/15 06:02pm Tow Vehicles
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