Performance is very close to the same, though the way they achieve it is somewhat different.
Installation, is the big difference. The DC is fussier. And it will have less ground clearance. That was the deal breaker for me. I want all the ground clearance I can get.
Sorry, but I don't buy that raising the jack is the "only correct" way to do it.
If that were true, then why would the manufactures bother making a pivoting bracket with a nub for the pipe? If they intended everyone to use raise the jack and flip the lever by hand, then they would have simply installed a hook on the frame for you to slip the chain link onto.
There's nothing wrong with using the pipe.
My WD hitch came with a pipe for the purpose of lifting the shackles.......so how is it not the right way???I don't see it as right or wrong. But which way is safer.
I have a over the bed rail quad rack for the bed of my truck. It comes with 10.5' ramps. You can drive the quads up there. Or winch them up there.
I used to drive them up. I now winch them up, as it is much safer.
As I said before, we humans used to do lots of things that were unsafe by todays standards.
The hitch design in this discussion is probably the oldest one still being made today. Many people have been hurt when hooking it up. Many of us have learned from those incidents about safer ways to do it.
Before I had a power jack, I used the pipe. But I wouldn't let my wife do it. She now hitches up all the time, using the power jack method. I am comfortable with her doing it this way.
The advantage that the internet, and this forum gives us, is the free flow of information. Good and bad. You gotta decide for yourself which is good, and which is bad. But at least you are now informed.
If you are comfortable with the risk... Then continue doing it the old way. I or nobody else will change your mind, and it is YOUR risk and YOUR right.
You should be able to keep the title that you already have so no salvage title.
No insurance company will do that. When they offer to sell you a "totaled" vehicle (which is what would happen here), then you get a salvage title.
The whole insurance thing is moot.
Insuring a 16K TT makes sense, as it can be a large loss.. Insuring a 4K anything is not going to be cost effective. If it caught fire, the OPs loss is only 4K. Not good, but not a tragedy either.
I'm not clear where you got your information on the Camco aluminum stand capacities, but I verified the information on the Camco website where they also state these stands WILL support up to 6,000 lbs, or are you suggesting the four stands contained in the box will collectively, but not individually, support up to 6,000 lbs?
This number is of no consequence, as the coach is supported by six scissor jacks, the four tires, and a hitch stand, and I will be initially adding only two Camco stands just aft of the axles to see if LarryJM's suggestion works. Based on the previously-mentioned existing tires, jacks, and stands, each Camco stand will only be supporting approximately 1,000 lbs.
I will be ordering a total of eight Camco aluminum stands, and if my initial attempt to stabilize the coach with two Camco stands behind the axles fail, I will be retracting the six factory-mounted scissor jacks and using the other six Camco stands in their place, but spacing them ten feet apart on both sides of the coach, also as recommended by LarryJM.
I understand your concern, and if you have proof of your claim, I'd suggest you contact the manufacturer.
Otherwise, do you have an alternate suggestion to solve my RV problem?I have owned those Camco jacks in the past.
Let met just put it like this... When I jack up the front of my diesel to do a oil/lube job.... I wouldn't crawl under it, if it was supported by a pair of them.
I use these:
Real 6000# Jack stands
And yes, I am a archery hunter.. So I DO shoot arrows.. And I hit my targets.:B
But on a more serious note. I am the safety officer at my work. So when I see something written like this, that is obviously not true. I must point it out. Lest someone believe it to be true, and suffer the consequences when they find out otherwise.
Those cheap Camco jacks will work fine, at their rating. for their intended purpose. That of stabilization.
As for just what the rating is, I would contact Camco.
Since they are sold in sets of four, it would make sense that the rating is 1500# per jack. The auto jack stands I linked to are sold in pairs, and rated at 6 tons for the pair, or 6000# each.
Be safe out there.
IMHO, it is not if marginal ST tires will fail, it is when, and they fail rather quickly once they decide to go....
Oh and for all of those believers that the sidewalls of an ST tire are tougher than an LT tire, this is BS.
The sidewalls are 2-ply polyester and the carcass is very light compared to an equivalent LT tire...
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but it's my understanding that few if any LT's have something other than two-ply polyester sidewalls, though some may have sidewall enhancements such as the turnups provided by Dunlop on its off-roader, The Mud Rover.
Which of course is unlikely to be a choice anyone would make for a trailer.
My Michelin XPS RIBS have all steel plys.
It is a commercial type carcass, suitable for retreading, as per Michelin.
Are ANY ST tires suitable for retreading?:B
Thank you for your interesting and lengthy explanation of the issue and means of resolving it.
Please forgive my confusion, but my background is healthcare, specifically hospital pharmacy; I am not an engineer.
I am estimating the total weight of my 40ft coach to be in the range of 5-6 tons, with contents.
The screw-type jack stands do not appear to support any significant weight; would 1-ton screw-type jack stands distributed every ten feet on each side of the coach be sufficient to handle the coach weight, or do I buy larger capacity ratcheting stands? And what capacity stands?
What about the hydraulic jack--are we talking bottle jack and in what capacity?
Your perspective and rationale are both reasonable and cost-effective.
I thank you for your time and efforts.
Personally I would look at getting two sets (each set has 4 stands) of the Camco 44560 Olympian Aluminum Stack Jack Stand which go for around $34 at Amazon and each stand supports up to 6,000lbs more than enough.
Just for convenience I would get like a 6T bottle jack that would run you less than $20 again from Amazon.
So for less than $80 you would have all you would need.
Now if you wanted to go the Roll Royce route get the Camco 57371 Olympian Telescopic Jack ($36 each), but those aren't all aluminum and would require more maintenance than the Camco 44560 stands and I'm not sure how much more they are buying you.
As an experiement you might just invest in the bottle jack and see if by using it along with what you have now you can get enough support to satisify your needs.
Those aluminum jacks will NOT support 6000#s each..
If they did, then a lot of mechanics have been duped... Look at jack stands for supporting automobiles when working on them.
I have a PAIR of stands that are rated for 3 tons (6000#) for the PAIR. They are noticeably heavier duty and made out of steel.
I have another PAIR of truck stands rated for 6 tons for the PAIR. Or 6000#s each. They wayyy heavier than the 3 ton ones.
One should say that the aluminum jacks can stabilize 6000#s.. Not support it.
Be safe out there.
I've noted this several times in posts over the last year or so, but then again I think the whole "chinabomb" thing was a bit overblown (no pun intended) in the first place. And I agree that quality has improved over the past4-5 years. The notion that more people are using LT tires is kind of silly, as I bet it's a very small percentage of the general rv population. As mentioned, a small percentage of rv users actually frequent forums like this, and so are ignorant of the issue. Guy I worked with replaced his tires a while back. I asked what he put on, and his response was he had no idea, but they were cheap. There's the vast majority. All imho, of course.Agree. But the people on this forum ARE informed of the issue. So a larger percentage of the posters on this forum than the general population have likely taken steps to address the problem.
That would make for fewer posts about it.
As for the "new" ST tires with the cap.... Maybe they are better. Maybe not.
But these same companies cheerfully took my money selling a product that they KNEW was a problem.
They have burned their bridges with me. They get no more of my money.
I have found a solution that works.
Your pictures indicate inadequate lubrication.
EQUALIZER states that the bar socket hitch head interface is to be greased.
As for the L pins, they will bend like that over time. I consider those a wear item in this design. All hitches do have wear areas. The forces in play are large, and they will wear.
What I would see as an improvement would be an L bracket that had two square holes. One below, the bar as in the present design' and another one above the bar. This would likely mean a longer pin would be needed.. My armchair engineering tells me that this would make the pin bending much less likely.
I could probably make something like that with a couple of sets of L brackets, a cutoff wheel and a welder. Not willing to spend the money on the parts for this experiment, but if anyone wanted to donate some old parts, I would give it a whirl.here's the gouging on the head. It's been cleaned up and all the high spots filed down. It was bad.
Some here are pointing out that the "stub" was made there for a reason.
You gotta realize that hitch design is the oldest one still being made today.. It may even be the first design ever.. IDK.
Being as how it is so old, in some ways it is a relic of the past, when we did a lot of things that were unsafe by todays standards. Powersaws had no guards. There were no safety belts in cars. Just about everyone smoked... and the list can go on forever.
Just because those stubs are there, doesn't mean that it is the safest way to do it. A moments distraction, can have really bad consequences, as there is a lot of tension in those parts.
And even when all of the tension is removed, some won't have enough strength to lift the bars into place... For them, the cheater bar is a safe solution.
But one should really remove as much tension as possible with the TJ.
Power jacks are not all that much money, and the safety/ convenience benefit is very high.
... Also after latching the trailer onto the ball try using the tongue jack to lift both the tongue and the back of the trailer up really high. At that point you will possibly be able to just flip the levers over by hand and not need a pipe.That works for me. :C .... but I still have the pipe "just in case" ...
I was shown how to use the pipe to raise mine. takes about 1 second. don't know why I would mess around with tongue jack,etc. I was warned to stand off to the side in case the pipe comes shooting out. :)
bumpyGet an electric jack. Much easier and safer.
HD and Lowes are very proud of their metal.
Find a metal suppler for much better pricing.
Usually gotta buy 20', but it is about the same price as 4' at the box stores. Bring a hacksaw so you can cut into the approximate lengths needed plus a little, for easy transporting.
I have not actually measured mine but I worked out what I thought would be close. The number I came up with was identical to yours...1600 mpg.
Can that article I linked to really be that far off? I don't doubt what you're saying -- I just wonder where that article came up with the numbers it did.
BruceRead the whole thing. It says that DEF can be as low as 1%. I think the article is geared towards the big rigs.
I have 40K on my truck, and get around 1000MPG.
Probably 80% towing pretty heavy.
If your springs are already over the axles, you can use lift blocks. I have done this on two TTs with excellent results.. As with any mod, it needs to be done right. I made my own blocks out of 1/2 " steel that I welded together 3 of for pieces with 1.5-2" of lift . Welded in a piece of steel rod for the mount and drilled a hole on the other side opposite it. If doing this, you may need longer U bolts. I wouldn't go too crazy with the amount of lift either.
Geeeeze... WHY is it the light police just can't let this go?
Huntindog- take a look inside from time to time and make sure you're not overheating anything with your LED stuffed fixture. LED's do make heat and that's a really sealed and small enclosure.Agree. As with any mod, there are potential problems. The stock incandescent was 35 watts. It got very HOT. Way too hot to touch. The LEDS do heat up, but I can hold my finger on them for quite awhile. Of course with there being five of them, the cumulative heat load may be more that the single pistol hot bulb they replaced. No easy way to test it other than just doing it. This mod was so cheap though that it is worth giving a shot. I will keep an eye on them for awhile, and report back....
Gotta laugh as some are still worried about me in a campground.
Nice to know they care.:B
You put five LED assemblies inside one housing?
Got a picture of the modded fixture?Yes that is correct. 4 of the 48 LED panels, and one 120 LED bulb for the socket.
I can't post pics now, but it really wasn't hard, there could be room for 5 panels if you want to go to the work of relocating the socket.. There is a lot of room in there. It's not needed though.
I consider heated and enclosed tanks and valves as a starting point. That's what my TT came with.
It was OK till about 6 degrees. Then pipes started freezing.
I have since added heat tape and insulation to all plumbing, and added another heat vent to the tank area, along with R7 polisonocrate (sp) insulation to the entire under belly, including the frame rails. It should now be good to 40 below. So long as I have gas and propane.
Well it's time to update this thread.
I first tried these.
120 LED plug in
They were really easy to install. Plug and play.
Real bright, but didn't diffuse as wide as the original bulbs.
So I then added 4 of these 48 SMD LED panels.
All I can say is WOW!! I was so impressed that I ordered another round scare light, and did the same mod to it. I installed it in place of the standard porch light. So I now have 2 of the new scare lights on the door/awning side, and one on the opposite side. With the aircraft landing lights the TT came with on the front cap, setting up at night is a breeze.
And the amp draw is about half of what the original bulbs drew.
Definatly worth the money if you are wanting good lighting.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
.......Keep in mind that someday you may be annoying someone, even though you are well within the rules....
Exactly. And if I was annoying someone, I think I would be aware of it. And in an attempt to be considerate of my fellow campers, I would stop doing it, even though the rules allow it. That is the way I was raised as a child. It doesn't take a rule to be considerate.And that sir is where you are REALLY wrong.
Everyone pays the same fees, everyone is bound to the same rules... If you don't like what someone is doing within the rules, no matter what it is...Common sense would be you sucking it up, or camping elsewhere.
The man said that his wife needed the AC.. So long as it was within the rules, then he should have been free to take care of her needs.
Your needs may be very different.. So what? Why should he sacrifice his needs because you don't like it, unless you are going to pay his camping fee.
IOW, if you don't like the rules, don't camp there.
And that is what the campin experience has evolved to.....pretty sad..
Not for me. I have to put up with neighbors in the city.. Where I camp, I have none. I won't camp in a campground unless I absolutely have to.
When I do, I will obey the rules. And expect, no insist that others respect my rights to camp within the rules.