"New to Rving" As we once all were. Most of us envisioned how we would be using our soon to be TT... After we got it, most of us found that things that we thought we would want, were not what we really needed. After some time living with the first TT, a second one is then purchased.. It tends to be a much better fit.
In our case, the first TT was a used one. We learned a lot about TTs and what we really wanted in one with that first unit. Then with a much better idea of how we would actually use it, we bought a new one... Since it was a much better fit for us, we used it a LOT more over 10 years. Then we bought our present TT new.. It is the best yet..
I would consider a used unit for a first one. After some time actually living with it, then pop for a new one that will likely be a much better fit. Buying a new TT that ends up not being what you actually need can be a very expensive experiment.. New ones are fun... IF they are a good fit.
OK, don't judge me. Don't make fun of me. Well, go ahead I deserve it. :)
Here's the deal. My propane tank leaks sometimes. It seems to be temperature and altitude related. At sea level there is no soap bubble leak test failure. At my campground, in warm weather there is no soap bubble leak test failure. At my campground with lower daytime temperatures there is an audible leak. That's a really long unnecessary intro to the problem.
I bought a hose for the tank to trailer connection. The large knobby end at the tank seems ok and the small thready end that goes to the trailer connection seems ok. However, I wasn't able to switch the hose because the nut at the trailer connection end is too big for the wrench I had (slightly larger than the nut on the replacement hose).
Is the thread connector at the trailer connection end universal or is the larger nut telling me that the thread connectors are actually different sizes? I hope I didn't make this too technical. If it's just a different nut size and the threads are the same I'll just bring up a bigger wrench to remove the original hose.You need some help from someone that knows what they are doing. There are some different fittings that can be used. Some require the special propne sealant, and others should not have any sealant applied... Hard to describe, and without looking it up, I probably would not use the proper terms anyways. This is not a hard job at all, but you need to know your way around the fittings that you have. If you can post some pics, that would help us help you a lot.
It's unfortunate that some of the thousands that use these without something terrible happening, can't chime in here or belong to the forum.
I personally have read review after review of these stabilizers and have not found one that said they did harm to there RV,not one!I find that amazing because there always is at least one Darwin candidate out there doing things the wrong way yet a couple here that have never used them keep saying what if...
What if/what if....I don't live that way!
The bottom line is they work and there are thousands of reviews out there saying just that.None that say they caused damage to there RV even used incorrectly...
I have only seen one TT using them.... And I see an awful lot of TTs out camping and at trials where an RV city springs up over night.
I talked to him. His had a spring mechanisim so that it wasn't a solid support.. He also said that it didn't make all that much difference, so a lot of times he didn't bother with them.
" lifting it a few inches ".
Is anyone actually using them that way? Snug is all I have ever done. If you had leveled up, wouldn't lifting 3 inches make the rig un level?No but if the TT dropped it would have that effect. AND I seriously doubt you could do it without something expensive breaking.
I do get a kick out of people chiming in on this product with there opinion, having never owned or used them.E-trailer has tutorials on how to use there products correctly,in this case slide out supports.The people talking trash about them have absolutely no idea how they are supposed to be used because they have never used them or been told how to use them correctly,so there imaginations run rampant...
Just to address Dogs little post whom never has used them,E-Trailer has this little quote for his assumption of screwing the slide up a couple inches..
Now a little note, you do not want to just these to level or life a slide-out room, because they could occur damage to the slide-out mechanism. These are only used to stabilize it.
I suggest anyone who is not sure about them visit a place like E-trailer.com and ask the "experts" rather than listen to those here that have never used them.
Sigh..... You are intentionally mistating what I was saying.
What I said was that if one believes that lifting the slide with a jack was OK... Then read no further.
I then stated the ways that this can happen,,, when using slide supports, AND the way that it could be prevented.
As usual, in an effort to win the debate, some little details are not being talked about very clearly.
The first thing I want to say is that if you think that extending the slide, then putting a jack under it and lifting it a few inches is not going to cause any damage.... Read no further.
Because of the way MOST TTs are constructed today, slide supports are generally a high risk/low reward idea.
If you want to use them, then you must make absolutly SURE that the TT itself cannot lower in relation to the slide. This can happen in the case of a slow leaking tire... It doesn't have to go completely flat... As for the jacks holding up the TT in this event... It probably won't work. Most TTs today use scissor type STABILIZING jacks, which are well known as not to be used as the sole means of suupport... And they are typically mounted towards the ends of the TT, which is not where the support would be needed if a tire was to lose air... In order to be effective a jack would need to be close to the axles.. Jayco said that he uses a screw jack.. This is different than the common scissors jack. They are not commonly used any more. This type of jack CAN be effective IF it is used under the frame close to the axles, AND it is on firm ground that will not sink under heavy weight. Think concrete or asphalt here.... And that brings up the other concerns... If one attempts to do this with the factory mounted scissors jacks, which we already know are not meant to support the TT, where they are mounted will not prevent frame flex, which can be a problem depending on how long the TT is, and how strong the frame is... In addition if the TT is not on a pad of concrete or asphalt, then the jacks can easily settle at different rates. My jacks are about 30' apart. The soil can be quite a bit different in 30'... Add some rain and the probability of a the jacks sinking unevenly goes up a lot.
To sum it up... If you want to use slide supports, then in order to be SURE that your TT will not inccur expensive slide damage, then you must make sure that the preceeding issues are addressed... EVERY single time!! The one time that you skip it will likely be the time that you have a problem....
Or you can just rely on luck.
One thing is quite certain... No manufactrer will warranty this type of owner inflicted damage.
Here is what Jayco RV has to say in their Owners Manuals
Additional support jacks are not needed under the slideout.
Damage can occur to your slideout room from improper use of aftermarket support jacksGame, Set, Match.
As with anything in life,one shoe does not fit all.If I were to call the trailer manufacturer and ask if LT tires were needed,what do you think the reply would be?What about tire covers to protect the tires from the sun that were not provided my the manufacturer or on and on..
I have used them and have a pair and my reply is based on actual experience using them not agreeing with others who have not used them, to be political.
I just do not see how so many can chime in with negative opinions based on never having used the product in question.As you well know, there are some TTs that come with or can be optioned with LT tires....
But as far as slide supports, I have never heard of ANY manufacturer saying that they are OK to use. Both of my TTs with slides had warnings about using them in their manual.
Point me to a link where a MANUFACTURER reccommends them.
If they're really bearing buddies, they don't serve any purpose on a travel trailer. If you over fill bearing buddies, you can easily blow out the rear seal. Their purpose is to maintain a slight positive pressure so when boat trailer hubs are submerged in water, the water doesn't get into the hub assembly. You probably have a spindle lube type set up, I had those on my last boat trailer, and if you do it right, you can acutally see the old grease being flushed out, and the seals remain intact. Boat trailers take way more abuse than TT,s and I never lost a wheel bearing.X2
And to expand on why they maintain a positive pressure...
When a hot hub is submerged in cold water, it cools really fast. Without bearing buddies this fast cooling will create a vaccum inside the hub. This can easily suck water past the seals.
Grease is not the reason most bearings fail.
Improper adjustment is. Too loose or too tight... Most that don't know what they are doing adjust them too tight... They take all of the play out. Proper adjustment will leave a slight amount of play. This is to allow for expansion of the parts at running temps. At temp they should be very close to zero play. Most bearings have a spec for this, but you need dial indicator setup to measure it... But following the manufacturers adjustment procedure EXCACTLY will get the bearings in proper adjustment as well.
I am on the fence on this one... Usually I would say it'll be OK... But you have an ultralight.. A lot of times such a design skimps in a lot of structual areas. Frames and axles can be a a lot weaker than in traditional designs..
If it was me, I would not rely on a bunch of internet "experts" that have nothing to lose if they steer you wrong.
I would contact the manufacturer... And try to talk to someone knowledgable... Not the new hire that mainly just answers the phone.
Gotta laugh as once again any thread dealing with locks brings out off topic responses regarding paper bags and screwdrivers. so try this scenario out for size and see what it gets you:
"Bye honey, I'm going hunting for 8 hours, but I'm not locking the doors when I leave, because you know, anyone with a screwdriver can break in - and then we will have to repair the damage"
Huntindog - I tested my TT door last night. Locked the latch and deadbolt with my wife inside. Had her come out and shut the door - and we were unable to open the door. Would never have thought about this, so thanks for posting.You're welcome.
Thank you for "getting it".
It does appear that they are all being made that way now... So I have no choice but to live with it.. I think that it is a really poor design. If someone was to come up with one that works the way it should... I would buy it in a heartbeat. At the very least, I would think it should have a warning label on it. Everything else has one nowadays... Even a lot of stuff that is obvious.
It constantly amazes me that so many in the RV world are so accepting of poorly designed items in their units. Things that they would never put up with in other areas of their lives. I used to think that it was mainly tires... then bearings, now it's locks.
On any given thread you will find those that inspect their tires and or bearings at every stop, even taking temperture readings... Never exceed 65 MPH etc. Yet they don't take anywhere near these precautions with their car.
Now we have many here posting about how accepting they are of a lock they would never have on their house.
Working as intended. But you will see that with a stick or screwdriver or something you can easily pry the handle lock open. Keep this in mind if you are actually trying to keep someone out. Deadbolt lock will cause the thief more grief.As I previously stated. My main concern is not property security, as I have insurance for that, but personal security... It wasn't all that long ago that some prison escapes broke into an occupied TT and killed the elderly couple inside. We always have the means to protect ourselves... The locks just need to work well enough to give us time to wake up, and prepare for such a situation... Letting someone just walk in unannounced with no warning is always a bad idea
HuntingDog I feel your pain and frustration. I agree a hidden key is not the best solution but it is somewhat a foolproof way to avoid the situation.
Another option is to simply not lock the door with the key when there is someone inside. The key lock does not provide anymore security and is simply more trouble that it's worth in your scenario.
If someone is aiming to break in and manage to defeat the deadbolt the other latch will not hinder, or slow them down at all.
Forget the locks. RV doors and frames are simply not the substantial. The door and frame are not sturdy enough to stop a determined intruder with or without the additional key lock.
There is no point in designing a heavy duty lock if its going to be attached to a paper bag!
If you want to provide additional security a few slide bolts locked by the person on the inside may help.
I agree, that it cannot be like Fort Knox, but neither can my S & B house.... Yes we have a few slide bolts inside for additional security.. Ruger, Remington and S&W make some fine ones... The locks on the door just need to slow someone down enough to allow the occupants time to prepare a warm welcome.
...Our government does not want anyone to get locked inside there home, yes I said INSIDE.It is for quick egress in case of a fire. One can always make the argument against government mandated requirements, and I'm one who does that often, but it is safer to not have to fiddle with a lock in an emergency.This argument falls flat on it's face.
Unless you don't lock it at all, you will need to unlock the deadbolt with the lever to escape. That is fiddling, right?
With some proper design, the same lever could unlock both portions.
As it stands now, the ONLY way to lock and unlock the latch (not the deadbolt)is from outside with a key.... Imagine if your S&B house was setup like this.
Its an RV..
Not a S&B house..That is a poor excuse
There are many differences between the two.
Do you know that every RV dealer and who knows who else has a key that fits your top lock?yes, I know this, but it is unlikely that a bad guy out in the woods will have one.
Do you know that almost every RV out there no matter how old or new has the same key for outside storage locks?Yes you are speaking of the infamous CH 751 keys that my TT used to have before I changed them.
Since you have been on the forum here since 2002 and this is newer RV, I guess you have had a few others over the years?
Probably the lock worked the same on all or most of them and you just did not realize it?
I have had 5 RVs and as far as I know, most were like this. My first TT had a house type doorknob on it that worked exactly like my house.. In fact I am pretty sure that you could get a replacement at Home depot that would fit. My second TT had the new style lock. I honestly do not know if it had the same shortcoming that that my present TT lock does.. I had it 10 years and hundreds of of nights in it without a problem though.
I sense you are most upset over lack of response from lock company?
You gotta go camping again and let this go.. :WMy deer hunt was 21 days. Gotta show up at work every now and then.
My main purpose of posting was to let others know how FIC handles a customer concern... AND to let others know of this problem lest it happen to them. I mean if this can happen to us, with 20+ years of TT ownership and not knowing this,,,, I am sure there are others.
And yes we have had a key hidden since it happened... A poor solution in my opinion. I also have a key hidden at home for the S & B... But it is unlikely that a crook would ever find it, as there are many places on my property where a key can be, but on the TT, it needs to be on the TT, not on the property as that is always changing.
I wish mine had 16" but no plans to switch.
2X Much better selection for "E" rated tires -- I can not switch because of wheel well clearanceWell, can't is an awful limiting word.
Wheel well clearance is pretty easy to overcome. A small lift will fix it. The only real limiting factor is the distance between tires... Even that can be overcome, but not easily.