RE: Diluting antifreeze
Why?? It's too cheap to fool with fate. Even Walmart sells gallons for less then $5. I put a Camco siphon ahead of my water pump, valved off the HW heater and did mine with a gallon, tho I did add some to the three water tanks JIC it really got cold this winter - so in effect, used 1.5 gallons
RE: 5ver vs. TT for those that have had both
Been the route - tent/PUP/5er/truck camper/3 TT (small, medium and large) now back to a 5er, a Titanium 28E33TS with three slides. The actual overall length is 34'7". We absolutely love this trailer. Yes, we have outsized a few campgrounds and state parks, but - that's life. Yep, it's high at 12' more or less. It, at ~10K pounds dry pulls even easier and with almost equal gas mileage as our 6000 pound 30+ foot TT and with the same F350 SRW V10 gasser (9-10mpg). This 5er has storage in places that we can't fill. What I particularly like is the interior room as at 6'4", most TT have me brushing the ceiling somewhere. It's also nice in that this one has a real queen size bed, not the normal 'short' queen that most mfr's seem to think is right for an RV.
RE: Hitch weld or not
Some of these suggestions about welding a vehicle frame scare me!!! Take a look on the frame of a new Kenworth or Freightliner - and you might just see a sticker that says do not weld to frame.
If you are NOT a qualified welder - don't!!!!!!!!!!! If you are, make sure you know what the implications can be if the frame fails with your weld
RE: Get rid of the tips
I have the Adblock add on for Firefox (https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/1865) which seems to hide TIPS as well as most other unwanted advertising on both my big desk top as well as my lap top. Firefox, I have found is a much more stable internet browser then IE ver xx
RE: Travel Trailer Covers
To resurrect this thread - I just bought an ADCO cover and installed it on my 34' fiver. It looks like a well made item - but, it is FRAGILE, and yes, it is partially my fault. Installing it, a V shaped tear, approximately 1 foot per leg - not a clue as to why. Maybe it came that way, but not sure as I didn't do a full quality check. Repaired temporarily with the supplied 'blow out' patch, which held it together for 48 hours - useless. A rear jack screw wore another hole just below the first tear - my fault as I didn't pad the sharp edges. I just did a 'permanent' fix with tarp tape.
This brings me to my conclusion that this $$$$ cover might last one season. While the $$$$ expenditure wont break the bank, it really doesn't make me happy. This particular cover isn't the TYVEK, but the Aqua Shield, which is recommended for my area plus I do seem to have a lot of claptrap on my fivers roof (includes 4 big Aero type vents plus 2 solar panels 2'x4' along with a large -useless- rear roof rail and an a/c). I'm not sure what the material is, but the edges of the tear seemed to indicate to me that it was a polyester cloth/paper material. Makes me wonder if I can find a better cover.
Installing it is a pain as well - it's heavy, you need a 15' ladder and you need additional ties. The supplied instructions plus the ADCO on line video, useless unless you have a Class A MH. It also doesn't fit my Titanium front nose cap at all well, but that's going to be a problem with any brand but a custom made cover - which is probably where I'll end up next year.
RE: snow load on 5th wheel
A few years ago we had one storm with over 3 feet of fairly heavy snow - not a problem. The CG we visit often is <100 yards from Lake Champlain. Most of the seasonals leave their trailers there with no problem - and frequent, very heavy snow storms, rivaling anything CO has is the norm
RE: Proper method to lift trailer for tire removal
I too have read that Lippert (also Dexter) write up - then trashed as ludicrous!!! I lift my current 10K# fiver under the u-bolt plate as I have every pup,TT, fiver as well as every pickup and car I've owned since....well let's say a long time(50+ years). So far, never a problem and none expected. I don't lift my vehicles attached - this will add load to the jack plus with a fiver, might tend to twist things - which will not be a problem as long as nothing is open, like slides.
One item to consider is if you use a hydraulic jack with a small diameter piston - since most parts now seem to be cost reduced(thinner steel), that bolt plate might deform if you don't have a steel pad to spread the load
RE: Heaters
We use a 900/1500 watt unit in our 5er, but seldom at that higher rating. It's better/quicker heat, quieter and much more economical then that roaring propane furnace. Usually the 900 watt setting is just fine for the LR area. Also - make sure the heater has a mechanical tip over safety switch. Many only have a thermostatic kill switch now - and I do not trust these especially since most of these heaters are now made in China or other low wage country and have sold the feature as "better" (read cheaper).
One thing to take into consideration, particularly if you have a 30 amp service is that at the higher 1500 watt setting and 120VAC you will be at 12.5 amps or probably near the limit of one one of the unit's circuit breakers and very close to 50% of the capacity of the main breaker. This might limit the use of other accessories. Another thing to remember, many campgrounds are voltage "poor" and at 110 VAC, you will be at almost 14 amps at the 1500 watt setting .... and it gets worse as the voltage goes down. And that nice new big LCD TV - it too is a watt eater:E
RE: Greasing wheel bearings
......of course if you had the Dexter Nev-R-Lube bearings, all you would have to do is check for end play and never have to repack them (and of course, when they fail and the spindle breaks, you could replace them with the conventional versions)
RE: slide question
When we have ours in the drive during RV season, the three slides are left out if for no other reason but ease of access. They are closed in the winter - their roofs tend to collect debris and just plain old dirt. We did a seasonal for the first time this past summer - since we were under drooling trees, closed them when we weren't there. The rest of the folks that had RVs with slides kept theirs open all summer - and from what I could see, nary a problem (that is except for mine - I had a bad wiring connection:o)
RE: Short bed compliant 5th wheels - Brookstone
I have a Glendale Titanium and a SB F350 fitted with a B&W Companion. Currently I have the hitch positioned ~2" behind the axle CL. While I can't quite do 90*, it's within a couple of degrees. Besides that, turning at 90* can quickly tear up those Marathon/Carlisle/Maxxis or whatever lousy trailer tire you have as OEM equipment (and that's grist for more posts then I can digest:R)
RE: Winterizing Question
My trailer LCD TV usually stays in the camper but since my TV room Toshiba passed away from the infirmities of old age, I'm sitting here typing this while it drones on in the background.
RE: Dropped it!
What I really like about this website? The OP dropped his brand new fiver. This happens!! But what do we hear? Comments that start on about page 2 or 3 that have the tone of 'I'm perfect and plan my hitch so that it will never happen to me'. These folks, the OP, in reality, had a problem, asked, if you really care to read between the lines, how can I not do this again. There are some really good answers. Then come the "It will never happen to me". Please folks, go walk on water, feed the massses, but stop those inept and inane statements. It can happen. It does happen. It did happen. And yes, after 18+ years, I 'tested' my Bed Saver. I sincerely doubt that most here have as much experience in terms of years as I have with a 5er - and I for sure use a check list, and still messed up but luckily, with no damage - because I have a Bed Saver. Is it a crutch - yep, but for sure it saved me a bunch of money vs. the $200 it cost for peace of mind. Do I recommend one. Yep - but for only those who don't have a perfect life.
RE: Dropped it!
I'm sorry to see your 'dings', but it does happen, especially if you are distracted. I was successfully able to "test" my Blue Ox Bed Saver the very first time unhooking after installing it simply because I had neglected to chock the wheels in my driveway. Had I not had that, my pictures would have been exactly the same except my FX4 is black. Oh and my B&W Companion hitch - you couldn't have done the damage as long as the locking pin is in place, which is a strong positive for that hitch. As a note, I bought my first 5er years ago, damaged after it had been dropped. Except for some minor cosmetics and a small piece of aluminum skin that needed replacing, that was a great deal and that '74 RV is still being used as a summer seasonal.
If it makes you feel a bit better, I had my 5er delivered to my home and the TT picked up - and the dealer's '08 Chevy had at least 3 distinct dents from them dropping 5ers.
I like the idea of a surplus take off bed better then a repair. It gives you a chance to look at the chassis from a different perspective plus it will most likely be new.
RE: 32" to 35" with a quality build
Glendale Titanium tho in the 32-35 foot range and new, might exceed your budget for a new unit. They have a distinctive and very areo nose - fuel mileage with mine the same as the Sunline 2753TT which weighed 4500# less. Mine, a 28E33TS is a triple slide which is actually 34 feet long overall, but measures 28 feet back bumper to pin.
RE: First Fifth Wheel
Congratulations and best of luck on your "upward" move!!!
I probably could list a dozen pointers to consider but since you are a reasonably seasoned trailer owner, probably not many that you don't already know.
A couple that you will have to 'retrain' your mind for - a fiver is a lot higher then what you are used to - and there are bridges, gas station canopies and tree branches that are a lot lower then you think.
Your hitch - know how to hitch and unhitch. You might even want to consider a Blue Ox Bed Saver. I had fivers years ago but went to TT's for several years, considered myself an expert, but decided to start off with a Bed Saver - and tested it the first time I unhitched with it installed. It worked just fine!! Teflon pin box lube plates work well
Parking - while backing, it turns a bit slower, tho a short one is fairly fast.
RE: Gooseneck hitch vs 5th wheel
My truck already has a gooseneck hitch in the bed. Am wondering if I can tow a 5th wheel with a gooseneck converter?
Is it less safe or more rough riding then a 5th wheel hitch.
J
Depending on what truck and gooseneck ball you have, a B&W Companion Hitch could give you a fifth-wheel hitch, when you need one and a gooseneck hitch, when you don't. Especially, if your hitch is a B&W Turn-Over-Ball, it's worth a look at the Companion.
Bill
AMEN to that statement. The B&W Companion is a very strong hitch. It can be removed from your truck in about 10 minutes and leave a totally open bed. I have one, love it. There are other posts here that say the same thing. If you have any other gooseneck hitch - lotsa luck
Oh yeah, my 5er - warranty is voided if you use an adapter. My 5ver - a high level unit - a Glendale Titanium
RE: Lippert Slide Out Systems
I wouldn't fool around - call Lippert if you have any questions like that. Lippert replacement parts are NOT cheap!!!
Here's the manual link. See page 14
http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/hydraulic-slideouts/5th%20Wheel%20Hydraulic%20Slideout%20Landing%20Gear-Web.pdf
RE: Need help? Reseal or replace roof?
There are several products available. You can buy Kool Seal(sp) from the RV dealer ($$$) or you can just go to Home Depot or Lowe's and pick up a gallon of their better aluminized roof sealer ($). I used that on my ancient '73 Kountry Aire as well as my '89 Real-Lite very successfully - as both are 'still alive' but with different owners - but they had aluminum roofs - with the rubber roof, it might not work well - or then, it might!!!.
With the rubber roof, DICOR spread over the leaky areas works well. Silicone - it wont work well on either for very long.
