THE FINAL FIX:
I checked the connections on all the outlets, and all were good.
I replaced the one for the fridge, as it was severely rusted.
So I called in an expert. He check the GFI and found that it was wired incorrectly. Even though I had wired it just like the old one. Turns out it was a different type of GFI with different wiring.
Once he did this, everything was up and working.
So in the end, my GFI had gone bad, and I wired it incorrectly.
Thanks for the help guys
I am at a park hooked into 50 amp
I have one of those $500 surge, low voltage protectors from camping world hooked up.
This circuit has been an issue on and off since I bought the RV.
It trips once a week on average and if I get get the RV washed while plugged in, it will trip. I think water is caused a short on the outside where the fridge plugs into the outlet.
I will check all the outlets next to make sure some of the wires have not come loose.
So the power went out to the right side of the RV.
No power to the outlet, no power to the fridge, and guess what no propane in the tank (way to go dummy).
So I ran an extension cord to the fridge to keep it cool.
I replaced the GFI outlet, I replaced the breaker, and still no power.
The only thing left is the wire.
Have I missed anything ?
Triker, did you even read my original post, it talks to each one of your items.
The only thing I did differently this time was go to 2nd gear and slow down.
I always downshifted to 3rd when going uphills.
As far as cleaning the radiator from other posts, I spray and clean from the front and back of both radiators.
I have had my RV for 12 years and I think I learned something new.
From the very first month I had the RV I experienced overheating when traveling in temps over 100 degrees outside.
I have a CAT C7 and the temp alarm trips at 220 degrees.
I took it in to FL and they showed me how both radiators were caked with oil, dirt and road debris, and they cleaned it all out.
I then found out my oil sump was not plumed to the end of my RV, so the oil that comes off this hose was going directly into the fan and onto the radiator. I fixed this by having it plumed to the end past the radiator.
Then once a year I break out the simple green and clean both the radiators.
All has been good for a while.
This month I decided to go to Northern AZ.
I'm heading north on 17 going up, up, up.
Then I hit this really steep grade and the temp starts going up, up up.
I manually downshift to 3rd gear to keep up the momentum.
The temp goes to 222 degrees.
I try something I never tried before, I downshift to 2nd gear and let off the gas a little so the transmission is not trying to go to 3rd gear.
When all of a sudden the engine temp start to drop, and keeps dropping all the way to 213, well below the overheat alarm.
So now I'm thinking I should downshift to 2nd gear when I hit these really steep grades.
Did I finally figure out how to drive my RV correctly in this situation ?
Let me know, and please refrain from saying "yes stupid" or "it only took you 12 years to figure this out, DUMMY ?"
Just finished by drive last night
I fired up the RV Monday morning and tuesday morning and the air gauge showed 120 psi both days and worked all the way through the trip.
Another Ghost in the machine.
Thanks for the help guys!
I have a 2004 Mandalay with a Freightliner chassis.
I fired it up today and the gauge for the front bags showed 120 PSI, all good.
The back bag gauge went to 150 psi and stayed there.
I cycled the bags and no change.
But the height of the rear is good, and the pop off valve is working.
I hear the air release when it fills.
I think I have a bad gauge.
What do you guys think ?
RV is 14 years old, I bought it new.
No leaks, I stay in Palm springs for 6 to 9 months and the dry air causes evaporation.
I replace the coolant about every 2 years as I drive out here in the desert a lot, winter and summer, and the heat can go over 110 degrees.
And yes I always use the correct coolant CAT ELC.
I thought there may be a separate radiator cap, in addition to the overflow tank cap, and before go looking I would ask the smart people here on the forum.
I have a Freightliner chassis, and a CAT C7 engine.
I am going on a tip next week and and was checking all my fluids.
The overflow coolant tank was low, had a little fluid on the bottom.
So I added a gallon to get it up to the full line.
I ran the engine for about 30 min and none of the fluid was pulled out of the overflow tank.
My question, if the cooling system is also low in the radiator, will it draw from the overflow tank ?
If no than I need to check the radiator once it has cooled.
I bought a Brake Buddy Vantage off EBAY and the seller packed it correctly this time. No rattling of any internal parts, everything attached inside.
Plugged it in and works like a charm.
So in the end I got a better unit for the same money, but I was out the packing and the return shipping on the first unit.
Oh well, still chaper than buying a new one.
The final word:
I tried the unit out in the passenger seat of my car and it seemed to work ok, but it rattled like crazy everytime it activated so I sent it back. Better safe than sorry.
I spent $22 to get Fedex to pack it correctly for shipping back seller.
If he had done that before he shipped to me, he would not have gotten it returned.
So I thought I would upgrade to a Brake Buddy system, looks easy to use and a used one is not too expensive.
Went on EBAY, won a Brake Buddy Classic "2 years old", right.
When it arrived the box was beat up, had a hole in it, corner ripped open, other corner crushed, looked like it got abused.
I picked it up and could hear all the internal guts moving around inside the unit.
I called brake buddy to see if all these parts were suppose to be attached to the housing and they said yes.
The seller has not been responsive so I opened a claim with PayPal and ebay to resolve.
Anyway, none of the internal parts appear to be broken, no pieces falling out of the slot, I have not opened it up to check in detail.
I wanted to ask those who own one, should the internal parts be attached or are they free floating ?
I will be making a trip from the Palm Springs area to Prescott AZ and there seems to be 2 routes.
1. 10 to Phoenix, 17 north, 69 to Prescott
2. 10, to 60, to 71, to 89
Route 1 looks like an easy ride for a class A with tow car
Route 2 looks a bit winding over the mountains
Anyone who has traveled this area have opinions please ?