I have had my RV for 12 years and I think I learned something new.
From the very first month I had the RV I experienced overheating when traveling in temps over 100 degrees outside.
I have a CAT C7 and the temp alarm trips at 220 degrees.
I took it in to FL and they showed me how both radiators were caked with oil, dirt and road debris, and they cleaned it all out.
I then found out my oil sump was not plumed to the end of my RV, so the oil that comes off this hose was going directly into the fan and onto the radiator. I fixed this by having it plumed to the end past the radiator.
Then once a year I break out the simple green and clean both the radiators.
All has been good for a while.
This month I decided to go to Northern AZ.
I'm heading north on 17 going up, up, up.
Then I hit this really steep grade and the temp starts going up, up up.
I manually downshift to 3rd gear to keep up the momentum.
The temp goes to 222 degrees.
I try something I never tried before, I downshift to 2nd gear and let off the gas a little so the transmission is not trying to go to 3rd gear.
When all of a sudden the engine temp start to drop, and keeps dropping all the way to 213, well below the overheat alarm.
So now I'm thinking I should downshift to 2nd gear when I hit these really steep grades.
Did I finally figure out how to drive my RV correctly in this situation ?
Let me know, and please refrain from saying "yes stupid" or "it only took you 12 years to figure this out, DUMMY ?"
Just finished by drive last night
I fired up the RV Monday morning and tuesday morning and the air gauge showed 120 psi both days and worked all the way through the trip.
Another Ghost in the machine.
Thanks for the help guys!
I have a 2004 Mandalay with a Freightliner chassis.
I fired it up today and the gauge for the front bags showed 120 PSI, all good.
The back bag gauge went to 150 psi and stayed there.
I cycled the bags and no change.
But the height of the rear is good, and the pop off valve is working.
I hear the air release when it fills.
I think I have a bad gauge.
What do you guys think ?
RV is 14 years old, I bought it new.
No leaks, I stay in Palm springs for 6 to 9 months and the dry air causes evaporation.
I replace the coolant about every 2 years as I drive out here in the desert a lot, winter and summer, and the heat can go over 110 degrees.
And yes I always use the correct coolant CAT ELC.
I thought there may be a separate radiator cap, in addition to the overflow tank cap, and before go looking I would ask the smart people here on the forum.
I have a Freightliner chassis, and a CAT C7 engine.
I am going on a tip next week and and was checking all my fluids.
The overflow coolant tank was low, had a little fluid on the bottom.
So I added a gallon to get it up to the full line.
I ran the engine for about 30 min and none of the fluid was pulled out of the overflow tank.
My question, if the cooling system is also low in the radiator, will it draw from the overflow tank ?
If no than I need to check the radiator once it has cooled.
I bought a Brake Buddy Vantage off EBAY and the seller packed it correctly this time. No rattling of any internal parts, everything attached inside.
Plugged it in and works like a charm.
So in the end I got a better unit for the same money, but I was out the packing and the return shipping on the first unit.
Oh well, still chaper than buying a new one.
The final word:
I tried the unit out in the passenger seat of my car and it seemed to work ok, but it rattled like crazy everytime it activated so I sent it back. Better safe than sorry.
I spent $22 to get Fedex to pack it correctly for shipping back seller.
If he had done that before he shipped to me, he would not have gotten it returned.
So I thought I would upgrade to a Brake Buddy system, looks easy to use and a used one is not too expensive.
Went on EBAY, won a Brake Buddy Classic "2 years old", right.
When it arrived the box was beat up, had a hole in it, corner ripped open, other corner crushed, looked like it got abused.
I picked it up and could hear all the internal guts moving around inside the unit.
I called brake buddy to see if all these parts were suppose to be attached to the housing and they said yes.
The seller has not been responsive so I opened a claim with PayPal and ebay to resolve.
Anyway, none of the internal parts appear to be broken, no pieces falling out of the slot, I have not opened it up to check in detail.
I wanted to ask those who own one, should the internal parts be attached or are they free floating ?
I will be making a trip from the Palm Springs area to Prescott AZ and there seems to be 2 routes.
1. 10 to Phoenix, 17 north, 69 to Prescott
2. 10, to 60, to 71, to 89
Route 1 looks like an easy ride for a class A with tow car
Route 2 looks a bit winding over the mountains
Anyone who has traveled this area have opinions please ?
Sorry guys been offline working and just had a quick sec to check feedback.
All good info, let me try and answer some of the questions.
Bar was bent up, not side to side, other bar did not look bent to me and it went in and out, but BO said it was bent.
Alignment of Tahoe to hitch on RV looks straight, but I should put a level on it and check.
Just so you know, I was not expecting BO to just give me a new one for free.
If the Bar was bent during use, whatever caused it, I did not see that they would cover the damage. (unless like one poster said, that his appeared to be locked in, but it was not)
But I would have liked to see some flexibility in the price to replace or repair, since I have had it less than a year with minimal use.
If I had gotten that I would have felt well taken care of by BO.
That's not the way they do business, so next time I will buy from someone else
I bought a Blue Ox Aventa 7445 system last summer and had it installed on my RV and Tahoe by a professional shop that has done many of these systems.
On my 2nd trip, when I arrived at my destination, 1 arm would not retract and it looked like the housing was bent, but the arm looked good.
I talked to BO and sent the unit back so they could check it out.
They said both arms were bent and needed to replaced.
I asked how much to replace them and they said $750 but they would give me a $150 credit, so net was $600.
I explained that I could buy a new one for $550 on amazon and asked them to give me a discount on the repairs as they are the manufacturer.
I had only used it 2 times, I did not backup while using the product and I was not in an accident or did I pinch it against the RV.
They explained that they can't discount below retail as this would be competing against their retailers/distributors.
I get all that, but for a customer to use a product 2 times and not be able for the manufacturer to repair it for less than a new one is unacceptable.
What do you guys think ?
Im looking at this vent
My theory is that hot air rises cold sinks, so with the vent being on the roof behind the electronics it should only be pulling out hot air only if the fan is small and does not pull too much.
We will see
Dometic can have a poorly soldered board. I had 3 new units installed on my 12 year old RV last year. When the last one went in, there were 12v issues, the unit was slow to turn on, and sometimes would not turn on.
The Tech came back and did a visual inspection of the board and found that some of the components were not fully soldered in to the circuit board. He replaced it and the issues are gone.
I worked as a manufacturing eng for 10 years, and even in the best soldering machines you can have fluctuations in the solder wave as boards flow over it. This causes cold solder joints and lack of a complete solder joint. It happens. And several hundred boards can be made before it is discovered.