RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Jamm3r' found 20 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

The new self-contained toilets are very efficient and compact. The bottom comes off and can carried to and dumped into any regular toilet, outhouse or a hole in the ground. This completely eliminates what I regard as the most unpleasant aspect of truck campers: driving around with a black water tank looking for a dump station. I will run the gray water out onto the ground when I'm camping off road - my preferred venue. In Minnesota running greywater out on the ground is a violation of environmental regulations. While fines are rare, there are cases where people who were doing it on an ongoing basis (usually permanently parked on a private lot) have been fined thousands of dollars. At most parks or campgrounds the host would simply ask people to leave. I know there are places where this sort of thing is still allowed or at least tolerated, but they are becoming rarer. It depends where you're planning to travel, I guess. I added a greywater tank and patched the original holding tank, and am happy with the way that combination is working out for me.
Jamm3r 04/10/14 01:53pm Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Best of all NO LEAKS! She just survived a Steamboat winter with hundreds of inches of snow without a drop of moisture getting in. Be aware that some leaks only show up when driving in the rain. This is particularly true of leaks in the clearance lights and in the air conditioner gasket. My first thing will be the bathroom. It's all there. In good, original condition. It was painted pink!! UGH!! At least part of it was. The stool and lower half. And the only crack in the entire interior is in the bathroom above the window. It luckily doesn't leak. Floor is solid and shows no signs of rot at least from below. I haven't removed the shower pan, etc. SO...how to repair the crack. Epoxy? Bondo? It depends where above the window the crack is. The curved area near the ceiling is fiberglass, while the lower wall area is aluminum. An enduring repair to the fiberglass would require sanding and a new application of glass mat and, ideally, epoxy (though polyester resin will work it is not as waterproof), followed by primer and paint. On aluminum you would want to patch it with a new piece of aluminum. In either material the first step would be to drill relief holes just past the ends of the crack to help keep it from getting worse. Also, I'm considering going over the entire bathroom, floor the ceiling in epoxy paint to give it a fresh facelift and get rid of the awful pink paint, but on the other hand I hate to ruin the original-ness of it. Will the epoxy stick to the vinyl? Thoughts? Advice? I painted my bathroom walls and ceiling with one-part marine primer and one-part marine topside paint. I used Interlux Brightside. There are other good brands. I sanded everything first and then wiped the walls with the recommended surface prep solvent. I've been happy with the results -- though it's only been a year and we've only spent about 10 nights in the camper. It may be necessary to remove the pink paint, depending on its condition.
Jamm3r 04/10/14 01:42pm Truck Campers
RE: Question for the trailer towers here

Butch The integrated brake controllers on newer trucks will send an electrical pulse down the brake line several times a minute to verify that the brakes are connected. It's a short enough pulse that it won't engage the brakes but under the right conditions you might be able to hear a click.
Jamm3r 04/03/14 02:10pm Truck Campers
RE: New Battery

I have a 2006 Cherokee 28A+ (two slides) and I am ready to replace the battery which has served me well for the past 8 years. It's time Are there any battery experts out there that can give me a quick education on RV batteries? I see different batteries that are listed as 100AH or 200 AH or 100CCA. I believe that AH means Amp Hours and that CCA is Cold Cranking Amps. I know that Cold Cranking Amps are important when starting my car, but not sure how they apply to my camper. Find a battery that has an amp hour rating. A few of those will have a cca rating as well, which doesn't hurt anything I guess. What you want to do is find a true deep cycle battery that will fit the space. True deep cycle batteries will have an amp hour rating. The "dual purpose" and "marine starting" batteries will not. Measure the battery you have now and get the same size or something that will fit the space. Most rigs use either a group 24 or group 27 battery. I do almost 100% of my camping in campgrounds where I have shore power and really only need the battery to operate my power jack and to serve as power to apply the camper brakes should it separate from the TV in an emergency. Any recommendations would be appreciated. thanks Any battery that will fit will work for that.
Jamm3r 04/03/14 01:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: Upper Midwest truck camping

Great thread Well technically you can't go off-road in the state/national forests in MN any more and technically you can't block a roadway. So I guess the only way you can legally camp is at the end of a spur. Since most of the spurs have been closed to vehicles it is now incredibly difficult to find a fully compliant place to spend the night that isn't a full-on campground. Pretty much all of the parking areas in WMAs and near county lands have been posted no camping. The two things I would suggest: 1) As noted upthread the non-electric parts of state park campgrounds are ideal for truck camping. These are usually smaller, quieter, more widely spaced sites with no electric. Also true of the newer county campgrounds around the metro e.g. Lebanon Hills (Apple Valley) and Bunker Hills (Coon Rapids). The overflow campgrounds that are nonelectric only are particularly good, like Carley State Park. 2) There are some smaller county/municipal campgrounds with no services that are typically remote and quiet. No water or electric or dump station. Little American Falls is one of my favorites. These don't appear in directories so you have to check the county maps/websites or ask around.
Jamm3r 04/03/14 12:59pm Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

I am consider replacing the original Insta-Matic water heater in my mostly stock C-11. It appears to me that the Suburban water heater will fit the existing opening and door provided a spacer is installed at the top. Has anyone done this? How did it go? I know that the Atwood water heaters are wider and therefore require structural modifications. The pilot and burner in mine are in very poor shape and rather than trying to adapt burner parts from something else I think I'm better off replacing the whole thing.
Jamm3r 03/27/14 09:27am Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Well Spring is coming and I'm starting in on the rv projects. Anyone with a C-11 knows how hard it is to find the propane tanks that fit. I came across a tank on craigslist that I've updated. It's only 3.5 gallons but will give me a third tank; that way I only have to stop at the propane dealer roughly half as often since I can wait until I have two empty tanks. I wirebrushed the tank, spray painted it, and replaced the valve and also am replacing the top half of the spitter valve. I was careful to keep the nameplate legible including the "W" ASME code stamp. The new valve is an OPD one which should make it easier to get the tank refilled. I'm also switching to these on my two main tanks. The only thing I don't like about them is that the relief valve is 175 PSI, much lower than the original which would have been rated somewhere between 250-312 PSI. So in hot weather there's an increased likelihood of the tanks venting just due to heat. The 80% point on round tanks is at 25% of the diameter down from the top. On the 10" diameter tanks used on the C-11 we would want a 2.5" dip tube measurement. The shortest OPD diptube measurement available is 3.0", for 5# and 11# tanks. So there is some loss of useful capacity. It was necessary to turn the float hinge assembly 90 degrees so that the float will not contact the tank wall after it is installed. http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q790/steve1dunlop/Car%20technical/Cayo/IMG_20140320_092559_754_zps94df0642.jpg This tank is from a forklift and was made in the 1950s. I believe the C-11 tanks are also forklift tanks however the size required has been discontinued. The Manchester Tank cat. no. 5060 is almost identical but is 4" too long.
Jamm3r 03/20/14 02:43pm Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Hey guys I'm contemplating what I want to do for a grey water tank for my C11. I think I'm going to keep the black tank as is and plumb the shower, bath sink and kitchen sink into a grey tank. One way to go is purchase a tank that will fit the space. That's what I did: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f417/1971-cayo-c-11-adding-greywater-tank-102789.html My tank nominally holds 16 gallons. Any greywater tank will tend to contribute to rear end sag so smaller and lighter are the words of the day. Another would be have a custom tank made by a local fabricator. A third option might be making a tank out of PVC pipes. I'm thinking of linking together side by side 4 " or 6 " PVC pipes each being 6 - 7 ' long how crazy is this idea ? I'm thinking of drilling each pipe with three holes maybe 1.5 " in diameter on the sides of each pipe. Use PVC glue or epoxy or ? to glue in nipples to connect one pipe to another. So lets say three pipes side by side could flow into each other, one of them would have the drain valve. The inlets could be one, two or three individual inlet pipes. Am I crazy to consider this ? Crazy? no. There are several Facts to Consider though: 1) you must connect the pipes together at their tops or you will get an air bubble and the pipe will not fill completely 2) you must also connect the pipes together at the bottoms or you will not be able to drain them completely when dumping 3) because of the space between pipes you will only get 75% of the capacity that you would with a tank the same size 4) If you connect the pipes together using standard plumbing Ts then the Ts will take up a great deal of room 5) It takes a lot of pipe I did this on paper and ended up getting a tank. If I could get 20 gallons of capacity I'd be happy. You guys know the rear area in a C10/C11 is pretty snug to work/install a second tank that's why I'm thinking of pipes. Thoughts ? I don't think you could get 20 gallons without a custom tank. I looked and 16 gallon was the largest I could find that would fit. If you got a custom tank that fit the space better you could get a few more gallons. However the custom plastic tanks are all polyethylene and so fittings have to be spin welded. The spin welded fittings can't be placed very close to an edge so you loose much of the capacity to an air bubble at the top. Others on this thread have had custom stainless steel tanks welded up. Heavy and expensive. My tank was a little over $100 including shipping.
Jamm3r 03/20/14 12:19pm Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Howdy! I am having trouble finding the outside scare light lens. Early thread mentioned Truck-Lite pn8935W. Not easily found even Net searching. Ideas? The amber lenses have become hard to find. I came across a turn signal in a truck stop that cost all of about $10 that had the right lens on it after a year or two of looking. I believe that vintagetrailersupply.com has clear lenses: http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/4_1_8_Round_Lens_p/vts-102.htm
Jamm3r 03/14/14 09:32am Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Thanks for the info on Solar. We had located a kit with mono-crystalline silicon wafers. It had what appears to be very high efficiency producing 9 amps from a 160 watt rating. That seems to be enough to keep my batteries charged up taking into account our camping style. We move every day or every other day so the truck charges the batteries as well. In the event we thought that we could always add another panel if this wasn't enough. Should work out ok Unfortunately I hadn't measured the usable space ----- and when I did I learned that it is around 40 inches between the vents. The panel is 60+ inches. So that is a non starter. I went to the website of the company you recommended and found a panel, for a good price, of 100 watt rating and also high efficiency. Its also about 40 inches. If I put two of them on the roof, I think they would fit for a total rating of around 200 watts and 10+ amps. Shadows are one thing to consider. In general, if part of the panel is in a shadow, the output of the entire panel will drop. I believe the amsolar panels are wired so that they do a little better than non-rv panels but you still want to avoid mounting them where any roof protrusions will cover them for a substantial part of the day. I have an air conditioner and a Winegard antenna which doesn't leave much room. Maybe a panel on top of the a/c.
Jamm3r 02/06/14 12:16pm Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

67avion I suggest you check out the amsolar.com web site. They are highly regarded in the Airstream community, and even if you do not buy from them there is some great information there. They sell some rocker foot mounts that will work on a curved roof: http://www.amsolar.com/home/amr/page_115_38/35mm_rocker_foot_mount_set.html The rocker mounts are usually installed with an adhesive as the main source of strength with a rivet or screw mainly to hold them in place until the adhesive cures. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 200-300 watts is probably about right. Be sure to think through the wiring and charge controller placement as it is a significant part of the labor and materials.
Jamm3r 02/05/14 12:22pm Truck Campers
RE: Staying in RV parks with truck campers

Hello Yu I think it's a matter of preference and park policy. I personally only remove my TC from the truck during the winter. It's a huge hassle, in part because mine is an older rig with 3 manual jacks. In part it's just a hassle to load and unload with any TC. On the other hand it does take a certain amount of time to get lined up right, level, and hooked up. It is true that some campgrounds do not allow TCs to be unloaded, either because they have problems getting them moved out of the way if the occupants just leave, or because they are an in area prone to flooding.
Jamm3r 01/13/14 11:39am Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Refrigerator question, if I may. I've noticed a lot of folks going to electric refrigerators in their campers. I must say, I was within just a few hours of doing the same, until doing a little cleaning and disassembly/reassembly on our gas unit. Then, lo and behold, its up and running, albeit taking about seven hours of time, and propane, to get down to cooling temperature. So, I guess my question is WHY change them out? Are the gas types inherently evil, or just what is the reasoning? Over 40+ years the fridges ultimately fail completely or deteriorate to the point where they no longer cool well (door seals) or are a nuisance to deal with (interior plastic parts cracked or broken). Parts availability is spotty so replacement is the best choice. Replacing a 2-way (120v/propane) fridge with a new 2-way (120v/propane) fridge of similar size is expensive and time consuming, both because of product cost and because the dimensions of the new fridges are, in most cases, slightly different and require modifications to the cabinetry. People who are trying to complete their restoration on a tight budget usually then opt for a "dorm fridge" especially if they are new to RVing. While they do work out OK for some people, I wouldn't want one. We want to be able to run the fridge when stopped at a restaurant or other point of interest or when visiting friends and parked in their driveway. Lots of times when it isn't practical to run a cord. Now, once my (intended) solar system is in place, I'll probably be more inclined towards electric, especially a two-way reefer. But it seems to me that gas would be of great benefit when not in a campground until solar is available. I have been up on the roof of my C-11 and have come to the conclusion that there isn't sufficient space for a meaningfully large solar installation. I do have a roof-mount antenna added by a previous owner, and an air conditioner. You have to look at the shadow-free space you're able to get.
Jamm3r 07/24/13 02:05pm Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Took off the metal plate under the rear fiberglass tub that covers the black water valve and P-trap for the shower. I am working on getting the shower pan out. Question: what would be the best way to unscrew the nut on the ABS shower drain? Meaning, the thing in the hole in the floor here: Do I need to take off the whole fiberglass pan? Does somebody make a really stubby crescent wrench I could use? I was unable to unscrew the drain from above. Whether you can do so will depend mainly on what kind of sealant was used between the drain and the tub. I had to cut the pipe at the trap and unscrew it with a pipe wrench. The shower pan is ABS, not fiberglass. Also, at first glance the underside of my black tank looks solid, a little rusting at the bottom screws but that's about it. Folks who redid their leaky tanks, how did yours look compared to this? Mine had patches from previous repairs. I sanded it and patched it with epoxy and fiberglass mat, then overcoated it, using components from West System.
Jamm3r 07/24/13 01:50pm Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

- What were your experiences getting windows in good shape? Mine are jalousie, original panes, look like they need new weatherstripping. On the front cabover windows, the loose flap of material that runs over the top has gone brittle, and I'll have to see if that can be replaced. I was unable to get the weatherstripping I needed from Vintage Trailer Supply and instead got it from http://www.all-rite.com/ - there are two kinds you need, one for the top of the window, and one for the bottom. I can look up specific parts if you can't find a match.
Jamm3r 07/12/13 09:05pm Truck Campers
RE: Used Camper pre-viewing checklist

Lots and lots of questions there I myself would stick to things that would determine whether the drive is worthwhile. Whether or not there's a remote for the jacks probably wouldn't make the cut IMO I see it as the buyer's responsibility to determine whether the make/model/year of camper are of interest or not. Unless you are buying a basket case as-is for an as-is price the questions that matter the most are: - are there any leaks where rainwater gets in - do all the systems work - can you test all the systems before you buy
Jamm3r 05/13/13 01:31pm Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Interesting. I had the remnants of the "removable clothes rod" in my bathroom, but they were in rough shape and the rod itself was missing so I took them out. Does anyone know what the storm windows were like?
Jamm3r 05/08/13 03:41pm Truck Campers
RE: Limits?

We currently have a Sportsmobile 2WD and are kicking around the idea of getting a 4WD vehicle. Not sure yet whether we want to go with another Sportsmobile or with a truck camper. (We currently have a Dodge 1500 and it's getting time to buy another. If we go the truck camper route we'd buy a 2500/3500). My question is this, where do you have to "watch out" where you are going? 1. Branches and other overhead obstructions. If there are just a few you can trim them with a pole saw 2. Unusually narrow road areas or brush extending into the road, depending on how many scratches on your rig you're willing to tolerate 3. Mudholes longer than your wheelbase. 4. Fallen logs and similar obstructions, unless you're willing to saw them and clear them. 5. Potholes and uneven areas bad enough to pose a tipping hazard or that may cause the side of the camper to tilt into brush or other obstructions 6. If the rear of your TC overhangs the back of the truck then you're at risk for dragging the back of the camper when you hit a dip in a rutted road or when there is a sharp angle upward in the road. 7. Areas intended more for Jeeps than pickups may require a shorter turning radius than you can achieve Be aware of the legal/political environment around you as nationwide the trend is towards closing roads to vehicles if they truly require 4wd for access. Is it pretty easy to travel this way? I guess I look at all that overcab/height/weight in the back and wonder how it affects the truck handling etc. The overall handling situation will depend on your rig. I find that tree branches are the main limitation. In the desert southwest it might be different.
Jamm3r 05/08/13 03:31pm Truck Campers
RE: License plates from truck to TC and back again, and again.

I was wontering what may be an easy fix, if any, for when I drop my camper and want to go. Maybe unscrewing the the two screws is no big deal and I am getting overly anal about making things easy. I was thinking of using my front plate (we have two here in Minnesota)but would like to hear from other to see if they have found a clever way of doing this. Hi Ben. I'm from Minnesota as well and have to deal with the same DMV and enforcement environment. If you're driving/parking someplace that is full of cops looking for an excuse to hassle you then there isn't much of any substitute for moving the plate. The main problem is that it is easy to forget and easy to lose the screws, and if you load up the camper and realize once you're done that you've buried the plate well now you have to unload and start all over. If you are outstate and are not driving around late on Friday and Saturday nights you can get away with more. I had a winch on my truck for 5 years that obscured the front license plate and only had a problem once, when an Edina cop hassled me while I was pumping gas. They never hassle me when the snow plow covers the front plate. Rear plate of course they're going to be more picky. A fact to consider is that displaying plates the wrong way is not a moving violation so if you do get ticketed you just pay your $120 and go on your way, no effect on insurance or drivers license.
Jamm3r 05/08/13 02:52pm Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

I'm looking for an extra set of horizontal propane tanks so I can keep some filled ones on hand and swap them as needed. Has anyone converted to some other system? Any "parts" C-11s out there?
Jamm3r 04/25/13 01:58pm Truck Campers
Sort by:    Search within results:

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS