If I am staying at a campground for just one over nighter, I hook up the water,electric, cable tv (if available), then since it only takes a couple minutes more to unhook the truck, I do that too.
Really, it does not take long, plus it levels the rv for comfort, and frees the truck up for sightseeing,food & fuel runs.
I have overnighted at truck stops, and rest stops, and I will not do it again.
it is noisy, too much traffic, and scary, with vehicles driving too close to my open slides, and steps.
It might be alright at a Walmart or such, if I had a generator, and television. But without the essentials, I'll stay at campgrounds.
While I am at it, I may as well say that I like to limit my travel distance to about 300 miles a day. It is easier on my back, eye strain, and legs.
Feel free to ignore any of these suggestions that you disagree with. It's only what I do.
I have put many miles, and a lot time in my 2005 RL27 Wildcat.
It is as good a unit as you are going to get for that price.
There are many brands/models, with better options/ materiels, that cost more,
and only the buyer can decide what his needs, and price limits are.
That said, there are still going to be too many lemons, of all brands, on the dealers lots. Best of luck. ( I got lucky )
Sounds like you have some water damage, and I guess you have had it for a while because the wood has gone soft.
I would not attempt that repair myself. I would take it to the dealer, and see what he advises.
Either way, it will not be cheap. Good luck.
If you tow in the mountains at all,you are going to encounter situations where the older Ford tansmision just doesn't have enough gear options.
The truck is good, the motor is good, but the transmision can't handle the mountains. Uphill or downhill.
Before installing new LED tail lights from command electronics, I replaced my standard incandescent bulbs. No help, lights were just as dim.
Then I bought a set of LED bulbs.$25 for 2 bulbs. These actually looked less bright.
Then I bought the led light assemblies. Wow,what a difference. tail lights are easy to see in daylight, and turn/brake lights really are attention getters.
About $30 each, and they fit (pretty much) where the old set had been.
So again... why bother providing axle weight ratings if there is no practical application of their value?..............
Because if the manufacturer did not provide both front and rear axle ratings,
along with total weight rating,they would be swamped with request to know the "left out" ratings.
It would be a P.R. nightmare. It might even be as bad as political ads.
I can imagine it now "why is GMC afraid to list the rear axle rating on their 3/4 Silverado ?
Ford lists theirs.
The air pressure will increase as the tires heat up. I would not worry if the pressure while on the road is 110psi, or a little more. Or even if it was only a little bit low.
I would wait until the tire cools down (at the end of the drive) and add the proper amount.
I guess if you had to add air to a hot tire, you might be OK if you kept the pressure 5 lbs below 110psi.
Jon, I am not sure where you read your "payload" number that you are concerned about.
I just use the numbers on the truck doorpost. They apply to your particular truck, with it's options.
Then "do the math".
As long as the weights on the tires,front axle, rear axle, and truck total ( GVWR), are less than the truck is rated for, then you have done all you can, to insure a safe trip.
Then do the same with the trailer. Make sure you are not exceding the tire,axles, or vehical weight rating.
THEN check the COMBINED weight of truck and trailer, against the truck GCWR.
Finally, yes. Carrying water in the rear fresh water tank will lessen the weight on the trailer pin (and the weight in the truck) by a little. Think of the trailer axle as a pivit point of a seesaw). Of course the waters weight now must be added to the trailer tires, axles, and trailer weight.
I always carry 10 gal. in my tank, and sometimes keep it full. Just in case.
I have a long bed truck, so I don't need the space that my 50 gal. fuel tank/toolbox takes up, but I would have the aux fuel tank even if I did need the space. I like it that much.
I bought my tank from Northern Tool. I thought they had the best deal. I use a a manual switch over valve, which requires me to get out of the truck to open the valve, to refill the truck tank. Works for me.
I don't know if carrying the extra fuel weight affects my milage. Probably not much, if any. But it is worth it for the peace of mind that comes with not being low on fuel at the wrong time.
I don't worry about rust in the aux tank, but I am concerned that my fuel might become stale or begin to grow diesel fungus if allowed to sit over the winter months.
So I use up the fuel in the aux tank in the fall, then just run on the truck tank.
The best tires that I have ever had on any vehicles were Michelins.
I have used them on luxury cars, pick-up trucks, and compacts.
For me they have out tractioned, and out worn all other tires.
But they are so danged expensive.
Now-a-days, I look at the application, and if I don't need a superior tire for it, I buy GY or Firestone. Or for my 5th wheel, Maxxis.
I doubt that your GPS is trying to route you because of length issues.
More likely it would route you because of weight, or height issues. It might assume that because of your length, you must also be heavy/wide.
Or, if you have told it you are carrying hazardous materials, it would route you around towns, and tunnels.
Still, I wouldn't be without one.
Pretty much the same for me, except I make it harder by using 2x6's that are long enough for both axle's. If I had some 2x8,2x10 scrap around I would try using two shorter (lighter)pieces.
My wife usually guides me to where I should be in the site then puts a level on the rear bumper. She can tell in a glance if we need one or two boards to level side to side. I put the board(s) next to the wheels, and pull forward. She puts the board(s)behind the wheels, and I drive back.
Side to side level is done. Bal-check the wheels,put the front legs down, move the truck out, and level front to back.
I still think I might switch to 4 short 2x8's, instead of 2 long 2x6's. DW is not getting any younger
Depends...You might travel thousands of miles on back roads (two lanes)without a problem. or you might travel half a mile off the interstate, and find a low bridge,tunnel,weight restriction, that causes you to back up half a mile looking for a driveway wide enough to back into.
The roads that you have traveled in your 25 footer, ought to accommodate a 30 something footer as well except maybe for the height.
Traveling on back roads with a 5th wheel is not worth the stress to me. I use interstates as much as possible, driving as much as six hours a day (almost stress free).
Then we use the empty 4x4 pick-up truck, to sightsee anywhere there is a road (or a path).
We only got into trouble once using this pick-up truck strategy, a narrow, sharp turn, one lane drive-thru at a McDonalds in Palm Bay Florida. We had to drive up on the curb to make the turn. : < )
Sometimes you just have to scuff the brake shoes up a little.
Mine don't always work as well as they should after sitting unused all winter.
But after some miles, and stops, they can lock the wheels.
I discovered this after spending an entire spring day looking for the usual problems, testing and adjusting, and getting to know my brake system.
Since I was stumped, I called a friend, and he suggested I take the trailer for a ride to scuff the brakes, and that fixed it right up.