So again... why bother providing axle weight ratings if there is no practical application of their value?..............
Because if the manufacturer did not provide both front and rear axle ratings,
along with total weight rating,they would be swamped with request to know the "left out" ratings.
It would be a P.R. nightmare. It might even be as bad as political ads.
I can imagine it now "why is GMC afraid to list the rear axle rating on their 3/4 Silverado ?
Ford lists theirs.
The air pressure will increase as the tires heat up. I would not worry if the pressure while on the road is 110psi, or a little more. Or even if it was only a little bit low.
I would wait until the tire cools down (at the end of the drive) and add the proper amount.
I guess if you had to add air to a hot tire, you might be OK if you kept the pressure 5 lbs below 110psi.
Jon, I am not sure where you read your "payload" number that you are concerned about.
I just use the numbers on the truck doorpost. They apply to your particular truck, with it's options.
Then "do the math".
As long as the weights on the tires,front axle, rear axle, and truck total ( GVWR), are less than the truck is rated for, then you have done all you can, to insure a safe trip.
Then do the same with the trailer. Make sure you are not exceding the tire,axles, or vehical weight rating.
THEN check the COMBINED weight of truck and trailer, against the truck GCWR.
Finally, yes. Carrying water in the rear fresh water tank will lessen the weight on the trailer pin (and the weight in the truck) by a little. Think of the trailer axle as a pivit point of a seesaw). Of course the waters weight now must be added to the trailer tires, axles, and trailer weight.
I always carry 10 gal. in my tank, and sometimes keep it full. Just in case.
I have a long bed truck, so I don't need the space that my 50 gal. fuel tank/toolbox takes up, but I would have the aux fuel tank even if I did need the space. I like it that much.
I bought my tank from Northern Tool. I thought they had the best deal. I use a a manual switch over valve, which requires me to get out of the truck to open the valve, to refill the truck tank. Works for me.
I don't know if carrying the extra fuel weight affects my milage. Probably not much, if any. But it is worth it for the peace of mind that comes with not being low on fuel at the wrong time.
I don't worry about rust in the aux tank, but I am concerned that my fuel might become stale or begin to grow diesel fungus if allowed to sit over the winter months.
So I use up the fuel in the aux tank in the fall, then just run on the truck tank.
The best tires that I have ever had on any vehicles were Michelins.
I have used them on luxury cars, pick-up trucks, and compacts.
For me they have out tractioned, and out worn all other tires.
But they are so danged expensive.
Now-a-days, I look at the application, and if I don't need a superior tire for it, I buy GY or Firestone. Or for my 5th wheel, Maxxis.
I doubt that your GPS is trying to route you because of length issues.
More likely it would route you because of weight, or height issues. It might assume that because of your length, you must also be heavy/wide.
Or, if you have told it you are carrying hazardous materials, it would route you around towns, and tunnels.
Still, I wouldn't be without one.
Pretty much the same for me, except I make it harder by using 2x6's that are long enough for both axle's. If I had some 2x8,2x10 scrap around I would try using two shorter (lighter)pieces.
My wife usually guides me to where I should be in the site then puts a level on the rear bumper. She can tell in a glance if we need one or two boards to level side to side. I put the board(s) next to the wheels, and pull forward. She puts the board(s)behind the wheels, and I drive back.
Side to side level is done. Bal-check the wheels,put the front legs down, move the truck out, and level front to back.
I still think I might switch to 4 short 2x8's, instead of 2 long 2x6's. DW is not getting any younger
Depends...You might travel thousands of miles on back roads (two lanes)without a problem. or you might travel half a mile off the interstate, and find a low bridge,tunnel,weight restriction, that causes you to back up half a mile looking for a driveway wide enough to back into.
The roads that you have traveled in your 25 footer, ought to accommodate a 30 something footer as well except maybe for the height.
Traveling on back roads with a 5th wheel is not worth the stress to me. I use interstates as much as possible, driving as much as six hours a day (almost stress free).
Then we use the empty 4x4 pick-up truck, to sightsee anywhere there is a road (or a path).
We only got into trouble once using this pick-up truck strategy, a narrow, sharp turn, one lane drive-thru at a McDonalds in Palm Bay Florida. We had to drive up on the curb to make the turn. : < )
Sometimes you just have to scuff the brake shoes up a little.
Mine don't always work as well as they should after sitting unused all winter.
But after some miles, and stops, they can lock the wheels.
I discovered this after spending an entire spring day looking for the usual problems, testing and adjusting, and getting to know my brake system.
Since I was stumped, I called a friend, and he suggested I take the trailer for a ride to scuff the brakes, and that fixed it right up.
My 2006, 2500 hd,duramax/allison ,cc, long bed,4x4 works great for my 10,000lb unit.
I've been thru the Rockies,and across the country twice with it, and I hope to go again this year.
But...you might not need a crew cab. I do. I wanted it to carry traveling stuff like cooler,snacks,jackets,step stool,maps. I have even carried 5 passengers a few times, but at least one of them had to have narrow hips. You need a bench seat, not buckets in front,to do that.
You might not need a long bed..I have a aux. 50 gal fuel tank in my long bed, and I have used all of that long bed to carry cargo many times, so I think it's a good thing to have.
The long bed,CC, kind of forces you to park at the far end of parking lots though.
That is where the duallies park anyway, so you might want to just go ahead and get a 3500 dually while you are at it. You won't regret it later.
Finally.. do you want 4 wheel drive. Maybe. I wouldn't turn down a truck that had it.
I have used it 3 or 4 times in campgrounds where I was spinning tires in mud, or wet grass. But maybe I would not have been in that fix if I had not been so carefree about the conditions. I like being carefree. Oh yeah, I pulled a Hummer out of a snowbank once. How is that for bragging rights.
i hope this helps you decide.
Fifth wheel trailers range from the low 20 footers to the low forty footers. You can find all of the major manufacturers on the internet with details of their models.
Your choice of tow vehicle will depend on the "pin weight" of the 5th wheel you like.
Pin weights vary between 800lbs, and over 3000lbs for different 5th wheel trailers, and your truck has to be able to carry this pin weight in its bed, as "payload".
This is not the same as the amount of weight a tow vehicle can tow. My truck can tow about 12,000 lbs,
but I can only put about 1,800 lbs in the truck as payload ( fuel,passengers, 5th wheel pin, ect.).
Well I'll just add a third point of view. Based on my observations, neither one works all the time.
I watched someone pull out of a campsite with one Balchock left in place.
The driver had to apply more power than usual to get the trailer to move, but the big diesel eventually overpowered the balchock, and it bent & twisted until it no longer held the trailer in place. By then, some people had seen what was happening, and shouted for him to stop.
Conclusions ? Obviously one balchock can not keep a trailer from moving when it is pulled by a powerfull truck.
I don't think two Balchocks would have held it either, altho I once tried to pull away with two Balchocks in place.
The trailer stayed where it was, and I figured out what was wrong in time.
Are wedges better ? Maybe not.
I watched a guy launching a boat one time. Big Ford 450 dually,comercial adjustable boat trailer, and heavy 28 foot boat.
The trailer was almost as far back on the inclined ramp as it needed to be when he got out of the truck to make some adjustment to the trailer. He shoved a large wedge behind the driver side wheels, and moved the control levers to alter the trailer configuration.
That's when I saw the trailer start to back over the wedge.
I didn't think it was posible but I watched the tires roll up the incline of the wedge, dent into the tire at the peak of the wedge, and start down the back side.
That's when the driver jumped inside, and stepped on the brake pedal.
Conclusions ? Sometimes wedges don't hold. They can slide, or roll over the wedge on a steep incline. But his brakes held the trailer just fine.
I do think that Balchocks are more reliable than wedges. I put mine in place before I disconnect from the truck. Also, I don't set up the 5th wheel where it is not fairly level
I have been using a brown Camco 20 footer for four years now. It has worked very well for me, but I think I finally need to replace it.
After being stretched out to its full length for four days last week, in the chilly mountains of PA., it did not want to pull back to its short length.
I guess it's losing its flexability.
Yes, I'm going to buy another one.
You are in luck. Most brands offer the options that you mentioned, except maybe the outside access to the bathroom. You just need to pick the one that works for your family.
Build quality is a lot harder to anticipate.
Generally, the more expensive units are better built. But not always.
Your best bet is to attend some RV shows and compare the build quality that you can see, and feel. Only you know what level of quality is acceptable to you. Also it's a fun thing to do.
Finally, you need to pick a unit that is within your tow vehicles specifications. The weight limits are listed on your trucks door post, and for safety sake should not be exceded.
For a 2500 HD Chevy, you would probably be limited to a 5th wheel unit of 10,000lbs, maybe 30 feet or so depending on the weight of that particular model, and your truck.
Beach84, I understand your confusion. We have been camping, and traveling, summers, in our Wildcat since we bought it new in 2006.
If I went to replace it now, I honestly don't know what brand I would buy.
I guess what I would do is, avoid the cheaper/lighter models because they would have floors, bodies, and ceilings that flex due to the weight, and cost savings that the manufacturer had to apply to make the unit cheaper, and lighter.
Then, I would avoid the heavy expensive models because I just don't see the quality inside them that I used to see in older high end models.
What that leaves is a whole lot of mid-priced units that are very popular today.
You ought to be able to find one that you like. Then walk in it. See if the floor flexes, cabinets/doors/drawers open and close securely. No obvious flaws, and everything works.
I think that would be my starting point. Good luck in your search...Jim
The way I see it is.....The kingpin framing , which probably weighs 100 lbs or so, extends from the RV overhang 24 hours a day.
So when I hang my 5th wheel hitch from it, I'm only adding about 100 lbs more to it.
If the RV frame can survive with 100 lbs hanging from it all the time, it ought to be alright when I add the hitch to it over the winter.
OK so far.....2006 Wildcat.
Well, the quickest/cheapest thing to do is move the pin box.
The next quickest thing you can do is just shift the weight around from the rear of thr trailer to the front, by moving cargo.
But I don't know how much weight you are talking about.
Also your post hints that maybe you would like to beef up the truck suspension. as well.
I'd be thinking along those lines also.
The problem with that is, that once you spend the time, and money to put bigger springs (or air bags)on the truck, and the front of the trailer is a bit higher, you still have half ton axles, brakes, and gears.
I would not go that route. I'd get a bigger truck first, and solve all those problems. Or, raise the front of the trailer.