We had hydraulic 3 slides on our Dynasty and 1 electric slide. I noticed that the electric slide moved slower (bedroom bed) than the hydraulic slides. Also, the sound was different.
We now have four electric slides.
From reading these sites over the years, I recall someone saying there is a brake that is not holding the slide. I'm sure DOUG would know.
Thanks for the info. It seems to operate just slightly faster then the LR slide. I can't hear worth a darn so I don't know if the sound is different.
RVServiceReviews.com is the FIRST site I check wherever I am in the US. If you're having trouble with your AC though, expect it to take weeks during this heat spell to find a good tech that can help out. Never hurts to call though, sometimes someone cancels.
I forgot to mention, i have circuit brakers, not fuses.
If you have circuit breakers only, then you have a 240/120 Volt, 50 Amp park model built specifically to be pulled to a mobile home park (or RV park with park models), connected to power in any number of ways, then left there. For years or decades.
No fuses means no 12 volt.
And it would be a simple install in either a Class A or a park model. Just need to find the right installer.
The small bedroom slide in my '02 Winnebago Journey has begun to slowly retract on it's own. But only the bottom section. This is a closet slide on the drivers side. I first noticed it a week ago when I had trouble opening the bottom drawer of my chest of drawers. I pulled the slide in a few inches, then extended it and all the seals were tight.
Then a check tonight, I find the bottom of the slide has moved in over 1 inch.
The switch is in a spot that's impossible to just accidentally bump. And, just the bottom is drifting in towards the RV, the top seems to stay put.
It's a HWH hydraulic jacks and slides (2 slides) system but I can't tell if the rear slide is hydraulic or electric, it's hard to see under there.
Any thoughts on where I should start with this?
You say this is a park model. That could be a fully 120 Volt unit. Those of us here on this forum, and in the Class A section where you posted, are thinking you're talking about a Class A RV, which will surely have 12V somewhere.
Now, if you have a park model, that was setup in a RV park but is never moved, then you might have to install a small Power Supply! To run your thermostat, it wouldn't need to be very big or powerful. (Any electrician would have no problem coming up with a solution but probably not at $10). Here's one on Amazon: Power Cube
This plugs into a 120 V outlet but there are other transformers out there that can be wired in directly. Then there are readily available transformers, often referred to as Bell Transformers, but those usually start at 24 Volts. Used for the doorbell in most homes.
Let us know if you have a mobile RV or if it's a true park model.
Hah! $360. They hope they've found a sucker. People who change the motor usually say how easy it was, and that they found a automotive window motor at a local automotive parts store when they brought their old step motor with them. Usually for under $50. Also people have found them at junk yards.
Personally, I just removed the step assembly (Kwikee 2-step unit), worked on it on the bench and found that after I cleaned everything up (just the electrical contacts) and greased the gears in the gear case there was nothing wrong with the motor.
Good luck to you though...
Get a plastic pool noodle, they come in several diameters and lengths. Whenever the slide is extended, just put the noodle under the fabric to 'tent' it a little...but closer to the RV side then the street side to help prevent water from entering the RV. Should be able to get a few more years out of it that way.
Wait, a genset, something that's opened maybe twice a year, is on a hydraulic slide all it's own?
I've never seen, actually never heard of that. They're all manual pull out afaik. So...following this thread. Might be time to learn something new.
Parked covered or uncovered? Do you have the covered or uncovered vents? How's the wind there? I know the heat and sun are brutal there but not sure of the wind.
The cons of course are everything plastic that the sun hits, including your faux leather furniture, will over time get brittle and break easily. Wood will shrink. Fabrics will fade. Stuff on the roof like the shower skylight will get brittle too. For the interior, get sheets of that reflective bubble wrap to put in the windows. But you need to have the vents open to help keep the interior in better condition.
If you can find it, you'd want covered parking. Vents should be opened all the time if they're the covered type, or if not but you're protected from the wind or rain, or if you can drive over real quickly and close them when necessary.
Other things would be disconnect the batteries negative leads, fill the fuel tank shortly before parking, check all fluids. Drop the jacks to just take a little pressure off the tires, maybe park the tires on wooden or plastic boards.
I'm with you, eskins. Same here with a strong electronics/electrical and handyman background, my first RV really threw me for a while. Eventually, just dug into it and ended doing 90% of the repair work myself.
Usually, I'd find some help here on this forum, then dig into the problem. With your step issue, for instance, first thing I'd do is just crawl under there, disconnect the wires, then the throw arm. Using heavy duty zip ties, lash the steps up in the closed position. (And use one of those plastic steps to get in and out during the interim). And continue on traveling.
When I got home, I'd remove the steps and do a full service on them. Great way to learn all about them. Pretty soon, you're an expert.
Good luck, and have fun!
Speaking of Provost, saw a new one here in the park a few days ago and it really looked slick with the enclosed slide body, the wide open access to the engine, the beautiful full body paint. So I looked up that model number and found several very nice pictures of the interior for that rig. It's listed MSRP is at $1,499,000.
The 2/3 length slide, although it looked great from the outside, inside it has a 3 inch step the full length. I'd never buy that design, but if I owned it anyway, I'd likely stub my toe on that slide lip 3-4 times a day until I got use to it and got that down to 1-2 times a day.
If I was going to provide a newer electric system for RV storage customers, I'd put in a 20 Amp system with 15 amp breakers. Cheaper and will easily keep the batteries charged on any older or modern RV of any type. You're looking at less than 5 amps. The RV'ers will supply their own adapter.
This would also prevent abuse which I suspect would happen if you installed 30 Amp outlets.
I also use a sewing machine bobbin. Actually I don't know why d/n shades need the spool on the bottom. Looks like it could just be hooked to a screw,,,, but I'm not sure.
The original OEM bobbin has a slot to capture the string after you've pulled it nice and tight and wrapped it around the bobbin a few times. A screw wouldn't have that so you'd be looking at using some other method.
Another reason to use a bobbin (OEM or sewing bobbin) is that as the RV travels, the shades move, sway and get jerked around. A smooth plastic bobbin prevents string breakage you'd likely get from a rough metal screw.
To really answer your question, we'd need to see pics or have descriptions of what your RV manuf brought out to the 6-way or 7-way plug OR if like mine, the 6 was changed to a 7. Interesting that my Winnie I have a separate turn signal from the brake/tail lights, but at the 6-way plug, they combined it so the turn signal is combined with the brake signal. Then the PO put in a 7-way plug complicating things.
But, anyway, here's a link that shows what the various wiring setups would most LIKELY be, scroll down a bit: RV to Car wiring
I was on a dealers lot early yesterday and was surprised at how some of the more expensive rigs were so badly designed. Sure, they'd be really nice once all the slides were opened but they'd be horrible to spend 5 days in while traveling to say, Alaska. Not designed to stop along the side of the road to enjoy the view, that's for sure.
But I guess that's par for the course. Go tour used RVs from just before the crash of '08 and you'll find a slew of poorly designed and built rigs too.
I noticed that all the Winnebagos the designs looked like they'd lost all their good people and a committee of 'never-been-in-a-RV (more than a few minutes)' people took over the design duties. The newer Journey's were really not to my liking and showed a lack of detailing.
A newer Thor design team decided they like the floor plan of my 2002 Journey as much as I do as theirs is a nearly exact copy.
I'm happy that I made the decisions to buy used, with low miles, and for exactly the features I was looking for.
I also discovered that it's unlikely I'll ever move back to a smaller rig.
Under the hood, there is often a fuse block with a spare fuse holder or two. Adding your own wire to a constant voltage source there would fix your problem as it sounds as though you have a poor connection somewhere in the existing yellow wire connections.