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 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 547 matches.

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RE: WInnebago roof

HI all, I am going to look at a 2004 Winnebago Adventurer with a fiberglass roof. I would like to here from those who have this kind of roof and if there is any big problems with them. Also those of you who have a Winne how do you like it? From what I understand they have pretty good reputation as a quality RV. This rig is 38' long. It is the 38R floor plan which we really like. It is a few feet longer than I was really wanting but it looks like a very comfortable floor plan. What is it like driving a 38' with a toad on the back. It has the Workhouse Gm Allison drive platform. Is this enough power for a Rv of this size. Thanks, Phil My '02 Journey is 36' with two slides and I really like the fit and finish. PO didn't wear it out. Everything started out medium to high quality. It's a very comfortable living space. My only wish would be for another slide in the bedroom for more room there. My roof is fiberglass with the caulking along the edge as shown earlier but like others I used 2" Eternabond along the entire length both sides. Then I used 4" tape on the end cap seams. Here's my blog write up about it: Winnebago Roof work... I'm expecting less maintenance work using the Eternabond and so far, that's been true. I'm pulling a Saturn (2200 lbs) and with the Journey's 330HP Cat 3126 engine, it's hard to tell the car is back there. I do downshift going up hills and use higher RPMs to keep the engine temp at mid-scale or below. I'm not in a hurry so have no need to zoom up mountains at 65-70 stressing the engine. Since I have a diesel, I've no comment about your gas engines power but for that big of a rig, I'd be willing to bet you'd like diesel better.
Jim@HiTek 04/20/18 12:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: On the way home from Mexico...recommendation

Clothing optional.....Which did you choose? I chose to stay clothed this time. I've been avoiding the sun for decades and I would have burnt up like a french fry if I'd gone natural. Then there were the days I was there where it turned out to be too cool to go natural so... Maybe next visit. Weather permitting. Been there several times. Yes, it's a little different all righty! At +-4000 ft. elevation it's subject to weather variations throughout the winter but fine in spring/summer. Kind of interesting going into the office the first time. At first I thought I was still in Tijuana at a nudie bar. It was then that several fully naked kids ran through the reception area. Takes a little getting used to, but its harmless. Did Verizon ever put up a new local antennae for more reliable cell service? That was the only iffy thing. Yes, I took a shower with a Norwegian Goddess at the indoor pool. (no tan lines, no cover, and no cover charge!) That was a highlight in my RVing experience, at least, . . . so far. Chum lee You are correct on several counts. Does take some getting use to, but I lived through the hippy era where several concerts I attended were clothing optional and if you've seen a bunch of naked bodies in a short time, most people lose interest. I'm with them. Cell service? Hmm. I didn't really check or make any calls but I remember checking when I first got there and I had 3 or more bars so I'd say it's OK. The Wifi could be used for keeping in touch too.
Jim@HiTek 04/17/18 07:21pm Class A Motorhomes
On the way home from Mexico...recommendation

Usually I head back towards LA whenever I return from wintering in Mexico and visit my brother in Rosamond (80 odd miles north of LA). It's gotten rather boring and routine stopping at the same RV parks year after year. So I decided that this year I'll stop somewhere different when I returned from San Felipe, Baja. It's just a short jaunt from San Felipe to the border (2 hours), but you never know how long they're going to hold you up so I looked for somewhere nearby the crossing of El Centro that I hadn't been too before. And I happened to notice Jacumba Springs, California. Due west of El Centro up in the hills so it would tend to be cooler. Just a couple RV parks in that area and I selected the closest, DeAnza Springs Resort. After leaving the freeway, there is a 2 mile long unpaved road to travel though to get to the park but if you go slow enough, it's not too much of a bother. I arrived at a closed gate with a buzzer system to buzz the office so they'll let you in. There's several buzz codes listed there to try if arriving after or before office hours. Someone is always available to buzz you in. After entering the park proper, it's a short drive on gravel and recycled blacktop (compacted) to reach the office. Signs are numerous and easily spotted. The roads are mostly wide and easily navigated even pulling a toad. This park is huge. I learned later they have over 300 spaces. Some are permanent sites while others are park models built to spec. But most sites are a space with services. Plenty of different areas to chose from. And the main building is large as well. Surprising and unexpected to find this big of a RV park with the kind of facilities they have here. There's a large meeting room, a large bar area with tables and chairs, a traditional bar, even a dance floor. Around the corner from the bar is the cafe. Then there's the TV room and lending library. Everything is newer, clean, well cared for. Along side the building is another large covered and shaded seating area, then there's the pool and sauna. It is a clothing optional park but it doesn't bother anyone if you wear your regular clothing. While I was there the weather was iffy so many wore their street clothes (but not all). I really enjoyed my weeks stay there as everyone was really nice, the Wifi was very fast and reliable, services were good, RV spaces are large, there were numerous improved hiking trails all over their 500 acres, and of course, spending a couple evenings in the bar and having dinner while making new friends was really nice too. I kind of like having a nice bar right on the RV park grounds...not something I see very often. If you're looking to avoid the humdrum on your trip back from Mexico (or on your way there), check out DaAnza Springs.
Jim@HiTek 04/17/18 02:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: On-Site Oil Change - Yuma

They have 3 reviews on RVServiceReviews and they sound pretty good.
Jim@HiTek 04/16/18 08:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Full mud flap

I agree with Dutch...they kick up more and larger detritus then not having one at all. Even traveling to Alaska. But chains seems to be the most popular way to hang them from all that I've seen.
Jim@HiTek 04/14/18 07:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Changed to Euro Shower Diverter

I'm impressed. Nice job. I really need me one of those temp balancing dealees.
Jim@HiTek 04/14/18 07:31pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: 5th Wheel Hitch Ripping off Camper!!??

You should check local shops with googling, "Complaints about 'shop in question' ". And check them on RVServiceReviews Good luck.
Jim@HiTek 04/14/18 07:28pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Preserving camper top Class-B

"Some sort of plastic paint? Sand down and spray with a paint designed for RV plastic tops?" Yes. Rough sanding usually. Followed with a microfiber rub, than paint designed for fiberglass. Fiberglass IS plastic. The roof seam caulking? I hate caulking myself, never have been patient enough to do a good job with it. For that reason I love Eternabond Roofing Tape. Stuff sticks like crazy, is darn well impervious to everything thrown at it on a vehicle's roof. Available at Amazon in a couple colors. There's several widths available. Home Depot carries it too, usually in the 2" width.
Jim@HiTek 04/11/18 10:36am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: roof vent

Those switches aren't all that good. You can try to use a spray contact cleaner to see if that helps. I'd think it's going to be the switch or a wire connection before suspecting the motor. Maybe pull the switch out of the wall, and the next time it's acting up, use a jumper to jump the contacts and see if the lid opens.
Jim@HiTek 04/10/18 10:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 19.5s on a budget

Nice! That's the price I paid for Double Coin 19.5's back in 2005! I'm amazed you can still get that size at that price today. And a Cooper too.
Jim@HiTek 04/10/18 10:38pm Truck Campers
RE: Water shut off solenoid on timer

Any way I can talk you into scanning the schematic and posting it here? Thanks.
Jim@HiTek 04/10/18 10:28pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: onan repair bill question

Yes, unfortunately it is true of nearly all factory repair centers. It's seemed to me over the last 14 years of full time RV'ing that manufacturers don't want to bother with RV'ers or their little problems so ask outrageous amounts for very little work. I once got a formal quote on replacing the master cylinder on my Class A with Frightliner chassis at one of their shops and they came up with $2800 minimum firm. Ended up doing it myself...not an expert but it only took me 3 hours. Saved $2,200. There are shops around the country that repair Onan equipment more economically. Power Systems West in the Northwest region comes to mind. I used them for my Onan 7500 Watt genset when the front bearing ground itself to dust. Cost me $660. They are a chain and I suppose it would be up to each shop to decide if they want to work on RV generators though. That's a more specialized field requiring a different skill set just to get the dang thing out of the RV frame, or working on it inside that framework. I don't use mine much anyway (like most RV'ers) and if it dies, before I decide what to do about it, I'd certainly get a good grip on the symptoms in order to get a quote from 3-4 places and then decide whether it's cheaper to have it repaired at a competitors shop rather than a factory shop, pull the whole thing out and repair it myself (could require some heavy equipment like a big hydraulic tranni cart and a place to work with tools), pull it out and take it to a shop which would save labor costs, buy a new one from Harbor Freight (low cost but does need a bigger better muffler and probably an accessible gas tank installation so some redesign needed), or do nothing at all. Whatever you decide, they do have value to the next owner so it might be best to hang onto the one designed for the space in your RV's frame. As small as your unit is, it might be fairly easy to remove it yourself. Also, if you have a shop in mind to work on it, check them out on RVServiceReviews first.
Jim@HiTek 04/09/18 09:56am Truck Campers
RE: Walmart....."NO......"

There's a WM store in Troutdale, Oregon that has the no overnight parking signs up. Thing is that they are suppose to put them up by local ordinance, but there's no teeth in that rule. You can park all night if you want, and no one will wake you up.
Jim@HiTek 04/08/18 09:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Liquid from rear of Winnebago Journey MH w/CAT 330

I'm with SMLRanger...I think it was road water that had accumulated up under the chassis and leaked out as you were maneuvering. 'Sort of slick' would describe water from a road surface.
Jim@HiTek 04/08/18 09:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water Heater

Like DutchmenSport I Never turn the electric water heater element OFF just so hot water is available on demand. Never turn the gas flame ON unless it's really cold and I want an extra long shower. Even then I only turn on the gas 5-10 minutes in advance of a shower and off just after. The water though, that gets shut off if I'm leaving on a several hour adventure. Like downtheroad, I have a similar setup at the shore water spigot (though not that fancy). If I'm just going to be gone a couple hours, I leave it on.
Jim@HiTek 04/07/18 08:23am Fifth-Wheels
RE: South Dakota Motorhome License Fees

In South Dakota, my '02 Winnebago Journey Class A at 30,000 lbs would be $32/mo for the tags, $10 for the title. So nearly $400 as you said. You add in the other stuff you need to make SD your residence and you're looking at around $600/yr I guess. Most of that over the registration would be for the mail collection service. One thing I've found is that wherever you happen to be, just google "Mail services near me" and usually something pops up. So if you really like a certain spot, you can make that your domicile, if they have that service. Right now, I'm using the US post office box as my domicile in Burns, Oregon since they don't have a mail service with a street address there yet. (I don't fit inside the PO box so I choose to live in my RV). One thing that's changed recently, is that the VA now allows us medical services recipients to use a PO Box instead of a fixed address. So that's what I'm doing in what to me is a more desirable location. You don't have to make SD or TX your home base if you'd rather not. Note that not all areas have mail services like what you're thinking of...they're kind of spotty right now but the industry will grow with all the boomers retiring and going out RVing for months at a time.
Jim@HiTek 04/06/18 12:35pm Full-time RVing
RE: Question on water pump?

Fuse for that device is usually within a few inches of the pump. Find the pump, and the fuse will be very close. Probably in the red wire.
Jim@HiTek 04/04/18 08:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold inside humidity

My current refer is a Norcold 2-door and it was drippy for a while after I bought the RV, but I soon rectified that by adding a stirring fan. They make a commercial device but I don't care for them and came up with my own DIY setup. Can't guarantee it'll make a difference with your refer, but it's worth a try since your warrantee has expired. Here's a link to my blog article that covers installation: Refer Fan
Jim@HiTek 03/30/18 07:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood water heater 10 gal

With that new of a WH, it's possible you have both gas and electric. Is it possible you're running the gas all the time? If so, I'd recommend shutting the flame off and only use electric (assuming you have that heating element). While you research how to turn the temp down. (I mention this because I've known several RV'ers who had no idea they had a dual function water heater as the electric element switch wasn't obvious).
Jim@HiTek 03/30/18 07:54pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Auxillary Battery Issue in '91 Fleetwood Montara

A RV typically follows the convention of DC battery wiring having Red Positive and Black Negative. Then the AC wiring convention is White - Neutral, Black - Hot. There may be a couple white wires going to a ground in the battery compartment but that would be unusual. Usually the AC/DC system wiring is kept separate. You typically wouldn't find any Black AC wiring anywhere near the batteries unless a DIY'er was doing something in there with it. For a RV as old as OPs, I'd suspect it follows the Blk-Red convention in the battery compartment. At least for the thick Pos/Neg cables. However, because he's not the first owner, anything could have happened as far as battery wiring goes. And what I think is that one of the positive wires (going to a battery positive post) might be black, and perhaps was wired to the chassis ground. If the OP could take some pictures and post them here, we might be able to do a better job of helping.
Jim@HiTek 03/29/18 09:11pm Class A Motorhomes
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