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 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 394 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: WORKHORSE DRONE DELIEVERY

Having worked for many years with autonomous electric forklifts in warehouses, I'm more worried about the humans that write the software.
Jim@HiTek 02/21/17 08:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Revolution tail lights

In 2004, my 1994 Bounder tail light assembly had rusted out and was beyond repair. Only light that worked was the brake light. I'd spent several leisurely months driving around the countryside after buying that RV and occasionally I'd stop in at small out of the way RV dealers looking for a replacement. Well, one day, I stopped at a 'boat shop' of all places in Milton-Freewater Oregon. And darn if they didn't have the entire backup, running, brake light assembly, for my RV! Cost me $25. The point is, there's almost always a replacement out there somewhere. And if you're able to limp along with what you have, searching out of the way places for RV parts is not only fun, it's sometimes rewarding.
Jim@HiTek 02/16/17 08:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dicor Self Leveling or Eternabond Tape

Eternabond tape. Hardly any prep needed other then washing the roof. Cut it, press it in place, roller it, done. And never need to do it again.
Jim@HiTek 02/09/17 08:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Arizona Purchase

Bought from a consignment dealer in Mesa, Arizona back in Feb of 2016 and they sent me the title after I called them and gave them an address.
Jim@HiTek 02/09/17 08:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rubber Roof Coating on Fiberglass roof

Better to dust off and nuke the RV from orbit then to rubber coat that roof. But Eternabond on the endcap seams and to replace any of the self-leveling sealant that's aged out would be good. Oh, I just did my roof not long ago...the endcap seams anyway, here's the write up...Roof work I'm still able to work up there, for right now anyway. I have to do the side seams here soon (based on age and mileage) with Eternabond, and then replace the self-leveling goop someday. Right now the seals are still in excellent condition.
Jim@HiTek 02/07/17 11:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass roofs

Pretty sure Mile High is correct. I've had both types and Eternabond on my '94 helped seal up leaks in the rubber roof, and I've used it on the end cap seams, and will use it along the sidewall seams of my '02 full fiberglass roof. Thing is that both roof styles have problems and it takes some effort to stay on top of them (heh). The rubber roofs shrink and tear or get cut. The fiberglass are extra thin and the edge seals or a cut out seal in the roof can fail and wind can get under the roof and rip it right off. I've seen pics here on the forum of fiberglass roofs that were nearly half gone because of wind. Having had both, I do think the fiberglass is superior, but it's still a maintenance item. I still have the job of running 2" Eternabond along each edge to prevent the roof peeling off in heavy winds. Here's my blog post about the end cap seam taping...Roof taping...
Jim@HiTek 02/06/17 10:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: OOPS! Dry house batteries

Huh, 3rd time in 3 days I've had the opportunity to give this advice regarding batteries... Add 2 oz of mineral oil (3-in-1 oil) to each battery cell, even if you have to turkey baster remove some water. This helps prevent water from being boiled out too quickly and reduces the corrosion present on the tops of most wet cell batteries. If your converter is going bad though, make sure you get it fixed or replaced. Meanwhile, the oil will help get extra life from the batteries. Mineral oil has been used for this purpose in wet cell batts for over 100 years now.
Jim@HiTek 02/06/17 10:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV HDTV reception

Having tried to pick up OTA (off the air) TV for 13 years, I've found that in the western deserts, I can often pick up stations up to 50 miles away. In the hilly, grassy, cornfield midwest, 35 miles is about it. In the forested east coast area, 25 miles is about it. In all these cases, that's the best range, and it's often local conditions that shorten that range even further. I've been places where I was 8 miles from the transmitter and couldn't get a signal. One time in Flagstaff, parked in a RV park at the base of a giant hill, I could not pick up a station even though there were several station antennas on top of that hill. That I could see from my RV. Lucky that RV park had cable. Stayed in 2 RV parks there in Flagstaff and the pine trees, or power limitations, or directional transmit lobes, played havoc with the strength of the OTA TV signals. Even when you could see the transmitting antennas on the hill off in the distance. I did upgrade the standard antenna to a 'fringe' high gain style, but there was no change at all. I knew exactly where the transmitting antennas were, had my old antenna set up for them, and was missing 2-3 networks. Installed the new, high gain antenna, and was still missing 2-3 networks. HAH! Waste of money, effort, and time. So, I'd say, don't bother pouring much money into equipment without being in a place you can actually test, or without having a generous return policy by the seller. I did break down and go with satellite back in August, also went with the DNS (Distance Networking Service, $20/mo extra) program so I get the big 5 networks from LA wherever I am in the satellite footprint. Good luck, and note if you plan on driving around the country, there's many places you just won't have OTA TV, and those places usually the RV parks supply free cable TV.
Jim@HiTek 02/03/17 02:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1999 Fleetwood Discovery Hydraulic Jacks

If you have a '94 Bounder 'similar' Power Gear leveling system, it might help to check out my blog post. It'll show some pics of the coils. As others have said, the solenoids are 12V so your mechanic, if he didn't try to power the 'drop RV' solenoid but just released pressure, probably didn't check for power or even run a jumper over to the solenoid to power it, which would have dropped the RV. Power Gear Leveling '94 Bounder...
Jim@HiTek 02/02/17 06:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Factory desk anyone

Not sure you want to hinge the purchase of such an expensive item on one feature. I looked for a table with chairs, found it. I use the dining table as my computer/workbench. Turned out this RV also had a smaller table behind the passenger's seat that I use for my 2nd computer. Both computers are towers with large monitors. Room for eating is secondary. I carry a folding TV tray for that. Then I have the requisite collection of WiFi ready Android tablets, phones, smart TV's etc. so I have a VPN. Pick up WiFi, port it to my other devices. Also, I thought for a long time that I could just drive to Amish country near Elkhart, Indiana and have those carpenters build me something if I needed. Point is, I never tried to find a RV that had a perfect workstation. That gave me many more options as far as floor plan.
Jim@HiTek 02/02/17 06:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 120 volt outlets not working, need help!

I had a similar situation and it turned out to be a Patio outlet got water in it from rain, quietly burnt up and open circuited which caused downstream outlets to not have power. Really a tricky issue because everything I looked at was INSIDE the RV or in a basement compartment and was OK...never occurred to me to look at a patio outlet until someone mentioned it.
Jim@HiTek 02/02/17 06:09pm Class A Motorhomes
CW fire...

I lived in this area for several decades. Know the area well...this happened to be the 2nd CW I ever visited for camping supplies. Camping World Fire...Troutdale, Oregon
Jim@HiTek 02/02/17 06:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Front End Alignment Tacoma Area

Wherever you are needing service, I suggest you first check RVServiceReviews.com I'm not assoicated with them, but I have come to depend on the personal recommendations posted by users...
Jim@HiTek 01/26/17 08:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How to document a "deposit" on a private party sale?

Taking a small deposit to 'hold' a vehicle is fairly typical and it's usually pretty small. I've made deposits of $200 on $50,000 vehicles. It's also common to return the deposit if the buyer quickly changes their mind, usually after they have done research on the model. Ask any consignment dealer. Now, if the buyer wants you to hold the unit for weeks, that's a different story...and you keep the deposit. So in the real world, a deposit on a vehicle is rather informal. Don't over do it or the buyer might just walk... As far as the sale goes, the seller hangs onto the title until all monies are transferred. The more money involved, the stricter the informal rules become to protect either/both parties.
Jim@HiTek 01/24/17 08:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where to buy Michelin 22.5" Tires in Tucson AZ

You might already know, but you don't have to buy that odd Michelin size...one cross is 245/75R22.5 which is extremely close. Only a slight width difference of 9.25" vs. 9.65"... The 245's are what I went with when replacing my Michelins. Bought them on Amazon Prime, so free shipping. Love's tire shop installed them plus spin balanced them ($40/tire) and I had brass extensions installed for the air valves ($7/tire). This gives more options for finding a local tire store that might stock something. Look at truck tire stores maybe. You don't have to buy 'RV' tires.
Jim@HiTek 01/24/17 08:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: protecting toad

I'm counting on only the mud flaps behind the RV tires AND that 3M Scotchgard Clear Bra (Paint Protection Bulk Film 6-by-60-inches) that I got from Amazon that covers the plastic headlight assemblies. Put the 3M product on the headlights of my '01 Saturn which I bought specifically to tow. Its wedge like angular profile seems to me to be a natural protection against rock damage. So far only 3500 miles towing but no windshield or paint damage. I did find a rock hit evidence on one headlight but the 3M minimized damage enough that I don't need to replace the headlight assembly. My decision to forgo countless protective products came from years of reading threads like this one by people who've bought various products.
Jim@HiTek 01/24/17 07:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires

You might be told by some tire dealers that the Michelin size on your RV doesn't have a cross. That's not strictly true. Tire Size Calculator I owned a 19.5" tired RV for years...I like Toyo & Bridgestone. But I've also gotten good life and miles out of Double Coin, and I'm now trying a set of 22.5" RoadLux steer tires from Amazon (Free shipping with prime...saving $80 to $100 PER TIRE shipping costs when bought online). My tires mileage out rather than age out though I do have some Michelin drive tires that are 7 years old and have lots of side wall cracking. Just bought this used Journey last February and it has 22.5" tires. I'm not a big Michelin fan either. That tires size calculator is really handy when checking different sizes.
Jim@HiTek 01/19/17 11:22am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ok to get on roof?

What I did up in Alaska when there was 14" of snow on the roof was to take my phone with me in case I fell, a 2'X 1' x 3/4" piece of plywood that was kind a scruffy on one side so it wouldn't slip too much on snow. And wore a pair of knee protectors. Climbed up the ladder with a broom a swept off the powdery snow as much as I could from the ladder. Then brought the plywood up. Climbed up the rest of the way with the snow shovel. Then kneeled on the plywood for most of the work basically pushing a shovel full at a time off the nearest edge. Move the plywood every once in awhile to reach new areas of course. In the very middle of the RV, I'd just stand...wearing waffle soled boots. I've also tried sweeping it off from a ladder on the side of the RV and that sucks. Pretty much have to climb onto the roof to get the majority of snow off anyway. Just work slowly and realize that every flake doesn't need to be removed.
Jim@HiTek 01/19/17 11:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: this is wierd! black tank senor problem

There's the Geo Method... I tried that a couple times and it worked, for a short period. But to me, all these cleaning methods are merely a short term fix. I really object to the 'flush and fill 4-5 times' in nearly all portions of the country that are experiencing 5 year or longer droughts. Our recent string of massive storms seem to have alleviated the worst of it, but it'll be back. So I don't recommend wasting water like that as a general rule. What I do is simple. I tape a piece of paper on the wall and keep count of the days between dumps. And I know when it's time to dump when water starts filling the tub or shower stall and/or when the toilet begins to smell. I test this two three times over a long period and shorten the time between dumps to avoid the filled shower or smelly toilet. Once I've zeroed in on my usage and fill patterns, which by the way, was 2 weeks between dumps in my Bounder, and 1 week between dumps in my Journey, I just keep a chart on the wall and enter the date when I dump. I've found that just keeping track of the grey water is fine. I always keep the valves closed until time to dump. And use Calgon and Dawn occasionally in between RV park hops with 2/3rds of a full tank to help wash things. Used ice 2-3 times but it never helped. When I have a guest, I just shorten by half the time between dumps. So, for the last 10 years of full timing, I rarely pay attention to the LED lights because they lie.
Jim@HiTek 01/17/17 08:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: World of tires info..

I've not heard of them but thousands of independent tire dealers getting a call from them with payment for installing the tires they ship them on your vehicle would get their interest. Not an unusual arrangement at all. They're actually doing the legwork for you because there are many tire shops that can't balance a large RV tire...they try to sell you beads instead.
Jim@HiTek 01/16/17 10:06pm Class A Motorhomes
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