And to add even more confusion, there is Pex 'tubing' and Pex 'pipe'. I really like the tubing, the pipe...not so much. But my local hardware stores are carrying the piping and supplies, not the tubing. Gah!
What your local stores chose to carry depends on your area.
I think it's your RVs paint job. There's something about it that probably is akin to camouflage and causes other drivers to not realize it's all really there and may have an extension added. You have a ghost RV.
There's a lot of science that goes into camouflage so you need to find a University that works on it and invite all the professors out to look at your RV and come up with an anti-camouflage paint scheme.
When plugged into shore power for a few minutes, go measure the voltage across the chassis battery. You may or may not measure 13.8 volts.
If you do, disconnect shore power and measure again. If it's 10 volt or so, you have a bad battery. Replace.
If you do not, than you need a Trik-L-Start or similar device that'll keep your chassis (starting) battery topped off. Do not depend on the roof mounted solar panel as those are too small to do anything worthwhile.
Wow, thanks for the excellent advice, guys. I was also considering this product but think I'll pass on it.
I've made many trips up to Alaska and I will not make that trip without carrying a spare. There are places on that trip where you're 100 miles from the nearest town...or so it seems.
For example, I had a blow out around 25 miles from Vanderhoof in central Canada on my way to Prince George. Driving my Bounder. The roadside service had the equipment to put my spare on for me no problem. But I was curious so asked them about a replacement tire and they didn't have one. They would have had to send a truck to Prince George, pick up a 19.5 for me and bring it back. Tire guy told me it would have taken 3 days for them to be able to get me back on the road. And I was parking in a farmer's field, miles from anything, and being back on the road quickly was critical. As it was, because I had the spare, we were only delayed 3 hours.
That was a lesson I'll not soon forget, considering some of the lonely roads I've traveled even in the Western US.
My Winnie has 22.5 tires so I'll only carry one casing instead of both it and a wheel like I use to carry in my Bounder, which used 19.5's, but I'll keep carrying it...somewhere.
I'm a reluctant soft water fan for RV'ers. I have seen, and grew up with water softening when I was a kid and though expensive, and a hassle, it helped with things like laundry, prevention of hard water deposits, and better drinking water, but really, it was hard to notice a difference when it needed recharging.
Now, as a full time RV'er, I'd only consider the systems I've seen if I tended to plant myself in a couple areas of my travel circuit where the water was noticeably hard. And you'll find those places in your travels, your neighbors will tell you right off.
Also, if I were to get one, I think I'd do it at the Quartzsite rendezvous where you find experts and usually reasonable prices.
What I'm saying is that if you have a home base with hard water where you stay in your RV a lot, sure, get one. If not, wait a bit and travel a while before deciding. The systems are fairly expensive.
You already know, but I'll reiterate, don't buy from CW.
I'd suggest buying in Elkhart but wherever you decide to buy, always check them. RVServiceReviews.com is a good start, if a dealer has a bad service deptment, you'd probably not want to buy there. Yelp might have some helpful reviews.
It doesn't 'override' them, it places them in parallel so you have the house batteries assisting the starting battery.
The root of your problem is probably because your RV doesn't have an aux charging system for your chassis battery while you're parked and plugged into shore power. BTW, the optional roof mounted solar panel is basically just a salesman's scam. What you should do is just go measure across the chassis batts in the condition it was when you had the problem and if the voltage is not 13.8 or so, you need an aux charger like a Trik-L-Start.
If you've parked the RV without shore power, just disconnect the grounds from both sets of batts and they'll hold a charge for months. If you leave them connected, they'll slowly discharge...the chassis batts in days, the house batts in a couple weeks.
Don't know about DEF, but the rule of thumb for engine size vs RV weight is a minimum of 1 HP/100 lbs. HP = GVWR/100. So if you have a 33,000 lb RV, the LEAST you'd want in engine size is 330 HP. Seems to me of the rigs I've driven, that rule of thumb is fairly accurate.
I would try to get the best tire I can for the money I'm willing to spend while trying to also get the highest ply rating I can.
But if you want to math it, weigh all four corners of your fully loaded RV. Figure the weight each tire must support. Add 25% to that weight for confidence rating. Buy a tire with a load rating near that.
At least that's what I'd do.
Here's a bunch of brands in one place on Amazon to make it easy to compare prices. If you're a Prime member, shipping is free and Love's tire shops don't seem to have a problem with mounting something you buy online. At least the Love's in Troutdale, Oregon doesn't.
Tires...lots of tires...
I've been mixing brands between the fronts and rears for years because I offset the purchases, one or two years, and the tire I choose this year, might not be the best choice two years down the road. I always do sets though. Front set of 2, rear set of 4.
I've used Toyo, Bridgestone, Michelin, Double Coin, Goodyear, and Roadlux.
Really, can't understand what the thinking is when people are told by scientists that the water out of a certain hose is NOT drinkable, and yet they continue to do so. Not a smart move in my mind. I just look at it this way, if a hose is made in a 3rd world country with weak consumer protection, like China, AND, it's marked 'Not for Potable water', I'm not going to be filling my tank using it.
I would like to have one for other purposes though. I'd like to try one for washing the RV and such.
Before traveling that far to look at a rig, I'd ask the seller to turn on the 'on picture' date feature of their camera, take a picture of the VIN, a few random shots of the RV and send those along. Remember, you are possibly parting with a big chunk of change so you have certain rights. If they can't do that, at least get the VIN, and run it to make sure they actually own the rig.
The only place you'll get an unbiased eval is at the manufacturer's web site. IMO. Some of them will have a description of cracks and how deep they can be (usually in mm's) and still be ok. Others, you have to contact them.
Yeah, I agree with WildViking. If you think you might be illegal, enough so that you are afraid of stopping at a state weigh station, then you shouldn't be driving it like that.
What I see is that perhaps your trailer is too high for underpasses here and there on highways. Other than that, what's the worry?
If you're not adversed to Mexico you can get a fine job down there for very little money. They'll do any pinstriping you want based on your own design or they have samples of swooshes they can paint on. It's done with automotive paint so it'll last as long as you own the RV.
I've had work done in Mazatlan and San Felipe and both times it was excellent and economical. With a caveat or two mentioned in the articles.
Here's my blog post about the paint jobs I've had done down there starting with the latest job: Paint jobs in Mexico...
Head for a auto parts store and buy a 2 filament automotive bulb with the kind of bent over wire leads that are used to make contact. Straighten the wires and crimp them, two at a time, in a 1/4" male connector that will fit in place of the fuse that's blowing.
When you turn on the key, the bulb will glow. The brighter the light, the stronger the short or load. Then you can test all over without having to replace fuses all the time.
I don't know what NeverHome2's expirience has been but I have never had to worry about any of that. The whole scale thing is a SAFETY issue so just remind anyone in a state weigh station about that. But you'll likely never have to except probably in a couple states.
I worked mobile scales as a trooper (NYSP) and we would never have refused to weigh an RV.
There's a trooper there, Ed C, telling OP that it's OK. But like others, I'd wait to find a closed state weigh station or an open but mostly empty one.