While I was waiting to 'get round 2 it' I'd just used those strong Zip ties to hold the steps up while driving. One on each side of the step assembly. I'd disconnected the swing arm so the steps were loose though. I never bothered to lash them when I was at a park and they were down. I got use to them that way so as to continue on the trip. They'd swing a little but not to bad. Did concentrate on it though, and used the railings.
If I wasn't going to be at a park for very long, I just set my little plastic step stool out and use that.
Then after the trip was done, and I was at home, took the entire assembly out to work on it. Surprisingly simple system. Easy to pop open the gearbox and check the gears. Lubed everything, cleaned all electrical connectors, and it's been fine since.
I suppose many of us have gone through the harrowing experience of a tire blow out. Have you?...tell us about it. Maybe this post will be of benefit to those new to the RV'ing world and maybe others. Would like for responses to at least briefly cover:
1. type tire
2. age (years) of tire
3. where located (front, rear outside, etc.)
4. cause if known
5. how did you change or get the tire changed. If with a roadside service company...were you satisfied with response and service?
6. did the blow out cause you to lose control or an accident
7. did the coach sustain damage?
9. Any other information you think might be 'educational' or of some benefit to a newbie.
Here's my story: On I-75 just north of Atlanta (thankfully not in downtown Atlanta!!), Goodyear, six years old, rear inside, cause of blow out unknown. Called our road side service company provided by (Wholesale Warranties). A local truck tire service company arrived within 30 minutes of the call with a new tire. Tire installed and back on the road in less than two hours. Very satisfied. Did not lose control of coach and no damage.
1. Bridgestone commercial truck tires. With 48,000 miles.
2. 7 or so.
3. Drivers side inside rear dually.
4. Tire separation between tread ridges.
5. Coach Net. This was in the middle of Canada, took maybe 3 hours all together. Satisfied.
9. Had hit some road waddles some 200 miles earlier at too high a speed. Shouldn't have been going that fast. Think the compression after returning to earth on one flight of the chassis caused the tread to separate.
I've found generics around for $90. They are all over so I won't link just one (Amazon) because that would be unfair to the other retailers.
Just wondering though...is it possible you're losing power to the monitor? Because there's a well known issue with backup cameras/monitors in RVs not drawing enough power...which causes the contacts in the power solenoid (looks like a automotive start relay) to carbonize and develop a high resistance to low current devices. So they behave like what you're seeing with your camera.
If you think that it might be losing power, find your BCC (battery control center) and locate the solenoid that supplies battery power to the camera and monitor. Next time your backup image fades away, go whack that solenoid with a rubber mallet. If the picture comes back, means you just need a new solenoid. If not, at least you got the opportunity to whack something in your RV.
What I took out of my '94 Bounder measured 1 & 1/4". If they changed, they must have changed to 1 & 1/4" sometime in the early '90's. Which makes sense since the 1 & 1/4" stuff is just right. Though I think either size would work fine.
It would be great if those folks finding T-moulding online and posting links here, could find a place that sells it in 25' rolls, instead of 250' rolls. Most of us don't need all that much.
I have replaced all my moulding (but that company seems to be closed now) and don't need to know...but I bet lurkers might benefit.
BTW, when I decided to replace my old cracked and broken off moulding, I could only find it at RV dealers, at $6/ft. One place asked $11/ft. Just think of it, asking $150 for what cost me $25. All it took to install was a sharp pair of scissors, a knife, and a rubber mallet.
I remember the I/O lines of the external pump I installed on my diesel (right near the engine in the rear - fuel tank in the front) was a different size and I did worry about it a little. So I made sure the hose adaptors were right at the external pump, making it a short haul at the reduced diameter.
It's been 11 years so far.
Diesels don't get vapor lock so can't help with that. It's just I don't think your external pump has anything to do with it.
I should have said, "...since MANY diesel models don't...".
Now, whether a safety system component known to repeatedly fail, sometimes at high vehicle speed, bringing a 22K and heavier vehicle to a screeching halt in traffic, creating a dangerous situation for both drivers, passengers, and oncoming traffic can be considered 'poor design' is of course an opinion. And when many consider replacing a $30 safety system component every 15,000 miles as being necessary, I wouldn't call that 'good design' My opinion only.
Where did you get the trim. Mine is shot too, and burgundy looks great.
I just went to Amazon to look up my order details (ordered in '14) and it seems that Amazon stopped carrying the moulding. All it shows is my order, but no info on the company, no substitute part number. A quick search of Amazon doesn't show anything close that might work either.
Called "Plastic T-moulding". It was made by a company in or near Eugene, Oregon, came on a 25' roll and was 1&1/4" wide. The width is what Fleetwood originally used. It's wide enough that there's a small overhang on the top that helps keep small items on the shelf as you drive. The 25' roll was just enough to do all the moulding in the RV with around 18" left over. Cost was $25.73 (including shipping), so around a dollar a foot.
Can't find info on that company so you'll have find a source on your own. If I do run into that info, I'll come back and post it here. They have (had?) a web site but I can't find that either, now. The big problem of finding it online is finding a company that will sell just 25' of the trim. Most have a minimum order of 250'!
Anyway, back to the shelf, here's a picture of the underside of the shelf. You can see the brackets are wood. At least on the shelf under the LR window. Some other shorter shelves are simple 'L' brackets. But, the reason is that with the other shelves, you're not in bed gazing up at them like you are with the J-couch shelf.
The screw is part of my modifications. I cut out sections of the moulding on the backside to make it easier to go around corners. Then I added a screw after a sharp bend. Probably unnecessary as the barbed part of the moulding really held fast.
The only compartment with drains would be the fresh water compartment. Pretty sure.
I do like xctraveler's idea that it might be defrost water from the refer...if it's nearby. But, water can travel quite a distance hidden before appearing.
Why not just drill 1/4" holes, like 3 or 4, in the corner of the compartment?
I'm thinking it's caused by a small air leak into the compartment. And overnight temps and moisture content do the rest. Maybe you're looking at morning dew?
I'd climb under the rig and check for cracks and bad seals around the attachment points and seals. Put a strong battery operated light inside the compartment, and wait for nightfall.
As promised, here are the pictures of the shelf. This is original EXCEPT the vinyl edging. I replaced that last year because the OEM vinyl edging was all cracked and broken. Couldn't find the OEM 'cream' color at a reasonable price so went with burgundy at $25/25 foot roll:
And here's a photo of the shelf when the couch is down:
And a shot of the dinette end of the shelf:
The shelf is 4 & 1/4" wide, and 75 & 1/2" long.
Your decor is the same as mine. The J-couch and captains chairs use the same fabric as my Bounder. And I am pretty sure that what's missing is a long shelf that suppose to be under the window.
What goes there is a handy shelf that runs from the dinette up to just behind the driver. Gives you a nice place to put your coffee as you gaze out the window at a rain storm.
The shelf is 3/4" thick particle board with a slot for a vinyl trim piece that when installed extends a little above the edge of the shelf, to keep things from falling off the shelf. Mine also has a thin vinyl cover that's glued on top of the shelf. The shelf is around 3-4" wide and 12' long.
Those holes are where the right angle bracket that holds up that shelf are attached.
The problem is the tire formulation. RV tires...are notorious for being made 'soft'. This allows the kind of sidewall flexing that RVer's like because of the nice smooth ride. But it also causes early sidewall failures. In addition, the softer rubber composition is often blamed for that type tires lack of UV tolerance.
As a result of these issues, many RV'ers will refuse new tires from a dealer if it's older than a few months. Especially if we've specifically told them we wanted NEW tires no more then 6 months old.
And then there is the problem of RV tires just sitting for months at a time. A 'RV' tire doesn't tolerate that very well. Especially if it's already been sitting in a warehouse for years prior to mounting on an RV.
Serious question here, Cbones, what brand of tire did you have on your RV where you got 90K miles out of them?
I haven't gotten more than 35,000 out of any brand I've tried. Tried Toyo, Bridgestone, and Double Coin.
I'd be interested in a 90K tire.
Ahh, OK, so in the '90s, Bounders did have a GFI in the bathroom. And from what I understand from my reading postings on RV.net over the years, many of their models looped to the kitchen. Mine does. If my GFI pops, the bathroom, hallway, kitchen, and outside patio outlets go dead. And if my patio outlet gets wet, like from rain, the GFI pops.
This design querk let to some hilarious time wasted scamperings on my part searching for the reason I had no power in the kitchen when all along it was just the bathroom GFI having popped because of rain on the patio outlet (since replaced and sealed).
Newer RVs have both a bathroom and kitchen CGFI installed as the electrical codes call for one in each location now days.
OP can certainly add one to the kitchen, but it's likely going to be redundant. I'd suggest just changing out the old one in the bathroom with a new one (they do age, experts suggest changing them once every 5-7 years).