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 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 409 matches.

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RE: upgrade HWH 325 system to auto leveling

Don't know the answer to your question but from an engineering standpoint, it sounds like a fun project. But expensive. Here's a link to the PDF for your system: HWH 325 Jack System A quick browse through that didn't turn up any 'optional' setup or additional equipment for 'Auto level' so you're looking at some new and expensive parts, plus all the wiring, plus expert installation, or a DIY'er type with mechanical & electrical expertise. First step would be to call HWH and ask them if it can be done, what parts you need, the part numbers of the modules you'd need, etc. Than you can call RV salvage yards and try to track down the parts, cables, and connectors needed. Not impossible a project, but involved.
Jim@HiTek 12/13/17 08:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Easiest to service RV in Mexico?

I've driven a 35' Class A diesel all over Mexico in big cities and small villages and after the first couple of trips, never worried about being stranded in Mexico. As I've learned to say, the Mexican mechanics know how to do anything with nothing. I've seen a total diesel engine topside rebuild in a Mazatlan RV park, major suspension work across the border from McAllen on two different Class C's, a van engine repair in some little village in the Yucatan, tire replacement in a remote village along the Mx-15d highway, painting in all areas. Have had much work done on my RV's including a complete paint job, roof repairs, jack spring replacements, brake jobs, engine work, etc., etc.. All of this stuff was done in RV parks. There is really nothing to worry about if you're never in a hurry. It can take time to arrange for, than supervise mechanical work down here. I've been coming to Mexico for several months of the year for nearly 13 years now, and I plan my necessary mechanical work for when I'm down here. Cost is 1/4 to 1/3 as much as the US. For reliability though, I'd recommend diesel, and to pull a car, the bigger engine in a Class A would be better...though I have seen many newer Class C's pulling cars.
Jim@HiTek 12/13/17 08:31am RVing in Mexico and South America
RE: Looking for an "A" @ the Greensboro NC Rv show.

You can search dealers by state and town using RVServiceReviews Reading a bunch of reviews of dealers service departments will tell you a lot about how ethical they are after the sale. You can also just do a google search for a certain dealer and there will be reviews (usually) available in the search results. There's bound to be a document online listing the participating dealers so you can research before you go.
Jim@HiTek 12/11/17 03:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hot water element replacement

Old Biscuit Model Number GC6AA-9E Serial number 961424047657 Jim, you misunderstood the post. I have not yet found where the element is located, but thanks for the advice anyway. I thought you were talking about a bad heater element in your Atwood tank that is installed at the factory, and wired up by the RV manufacturer? A device situated in the back of the tank so it's hard to get to? If that's the case, I was suggesting a backup plan that for under $100 you can add an aftermarket heater element in the drain hole, accessible from the outside, powered with an extension cord, so you don't need to replace the OEM electrical heater element until it's convenient for you. I'm a full timer and seldom stay in a town that has any RV service I'd want to use so having an option is important to me.
Jim@HiTek 12/11/17 03:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hot water element replacement

Perhaps just forget about the bad one, and install an aftermarket heat element in the drain hole?
Jim@HiTek 12/11/17 10:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water heater plug

Mine broke too. Took it to a RV dealer and the tech came out with a large screw driver, jammed it into what was left of the plastic plug still in the hole and backed it out in seconds. Didn't charge anything.
Jim@HiTek 12/09/17 09:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water heater plug

I doubt it as the water is what? 180F? Even if the coils were hanging in the empty tank for days with hot water in them, doubt they would fail. Just not hot enough. BTW, most Class A RV's I'm familiar with the water system can withstand 20F weather for many days before you need worry. You didn't tell us the year or brand of RV you have but newer RVs, say from 2000 on, also have PEX plumbing that is much more tolerant of freezing then the older grey stuff. So partially fill the onboard water tank at the first overnight stop you stay at, than fill your water heater tank...your system will be fine. Just do the regular...before bed, turn off the shore water, or turn off the pump if you're boondocking.
Jim@HiTek 12/09/17 09:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

While you consider that Sikaflex, remember that large manufacturers have engineers and procurement agents that negotiate with suppliers. Sometimes to improve or change an off the shelf product to be more applicable to that manufacturers operations or procedures. Or sometimes to cheapen it a bit so it meets their cost structure. So, don't assume the stuff you get off the shelf is the same as what some RV manufacturer might be using. Right?
Jim@HiTek 12/08/17 08:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Yes, they are soft rubber gutters, just the right size for an RV window...fronts included. They stick on the outside above the window frame using that super strong 3M double sided sticky tape and you curve them down the sides of the window frame a couple inches. When it rains, they act like a small rain gutter. So even if your window seal fails over time, or from too much racking when you camp off road, the gutters help keep water out of the walls. BTW, on my RV, you can't even tell that they weren't original. And I see that they now make them in white too.
Jim@HiTek 12/04/17 08:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Here's what I'm using now over the windows, including the front windows, in my '02 Journey. Wish I'd found this stuff before I had those window leaks in my '94 Bounder. Just an extra layer of protection for very little money. They now offer a 25 foot package. Just right for my Class A, 35'. RV Gutter It's pliable, easily cut to length, and really sticks well to clean surfaces. I'd recommend it for over all your windows.
Jim@HiTek 12/04/17 08:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Load sensing proprtioning valve

Is this part of the braking system? If so, there's a long history of manufacturers molding a casting number into the part when it's a brake part. Where your missing actuating lever was might have been previously attached to one of those parts. So look for a casting number, than google it.
Jim@HiTek 12/02/17 08:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Dude, why not get one of those diamond encrusted iron cutting wheels?
Jim@HiTek 12/02/17 07:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Short in house wiring

Have your 'tech' check the patio outlets and the refer outlet. They are outside and can expirience rain leakage or high moisture levels.
Jim@HiTek 11/30/17 08:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: lots of rust on 2008 country coach affinity chassis

Most home improvement stores carry several rust abatement products in the paint departments. I use Jasco from Home Depot, comes in a quart bottle as a liquid. Put it in a spray bottle and go to town on the rust underneath. It's an acid that chemically changes the rust back into metal. Turns it black in most cases. Stabilizes it so you can paint it if you want, I never bothered. I've used it on two RVs now over 13 years of full timing. One had big flakes of rust...chipped those off, than sprayed. A friend used a foam brush instead and her undercarriage looks better than mine. I'm jealous. But the point is that the metal underneath is generally so thick, it would take a century for it to rust though in most areas. The acid treatment slows it to an imperceptible crawl. My '02 Journey was actually in better shape then my '94 Bounder rust wise, and I treated them the same with the Jasco, and then never worried about it again, BUT, I don't drive in the east with their salted roads, either.
Jim@HiTek 11/27/17 07:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: First decent trip and pretty surprised at the mileage...

In 87,000 miles in a 1994 35' Bounder pusher with a 190 HP Cummins, I averaged 10.00 MPG. Sometimes I'd get 13 MPG, other times, 8 MPG. But the average was 10 MPG. I kept very accurate spreadsheets over 12 years of full timing. I think the small engine, pushing 28,000 lbs and my light foot helped keep it that high. In my present RV, a 2002 35' Journey, over just 7200 miles of my style driving, I'm getting 8.1 MPG average, hoping for more. This RV weighs 8,000 lbs more than the Bounder. It's a process.
Jim@HiTek 11/27/17 05:40pm Class A Motorhomes

I have owned or borrowed Garmin, Tomtom, & Rand McNally GPS's and they ALL have problems. Sending me into empty fields, repeatedly insisting I was off the road and loudly proclaiming that I needed to turn around when I was on a freeway, asking for big bucks for Canada or Mexican maps, etc. etc.. Well, I just finally had it with messing with expensive name brand GPS systems and looked on eBay for a generic. And found there's a bunch of them. What I settled on was a car/truck/bus configurable type, 7" color screen, Mediatek GPS with free maps, supported by an open source community of people who just like working on maps. Free lifetime map upgrades. Mexico and Canada included free. And the best part was that the Mediatek only cost $49. I just checked and it's no longer available but nearly the same thing is... 7" GPS I've used mine for 18 months now and really like it. The big screen really suits the RV pilots area. I've had it route me around low bridges or away from tight downtown streets several times as I have it configured to consider my vehicle as a bus. All the routes it's taken me on for the last 18 months have been fine. Since the generics are just as good as the name brands these days (they all use the same maps after all), and several times less expensive, seems like an easy choice.
Jim@HiTek 11/27/17 10:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

WHAT??!! You still got that finger or what? You don't say. Did everything burst into flame or not? You don't say. Why is that new piece of steel in two pictures above longer than the template piece below it? Ahh, I see you finally got around to trimming it. Took forever.
Jim@HiTek 11/26/17 07:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need to find Chrome Hub cover Lug nut cover with nut...

Wheel Masters in oregon, When I bought mine, they were $10.50 each. Terry Ah. Oregon is my home base, won't be back there until next August or so...Head into Mexico Tuesday morning and not enough time to get anything shipped to me here. Thanks for the lead,Terry, I'll hang onto it.
Jim@HiTek 11/25/17 02:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need to find Chrome Hub cover Lug nut cover with nut...

Thanks, but none of those ideas panned out. Amazon has 20 pages of covers, no luck finding a cover there WITH a lug nut inside. No, it's not metric...16 Threads Per Inch, and my other measurements of everything, pretty much say US. I've only got one truck stop near me, Super Stop Truck Stop, I'll check there tomorrow but it's not a national chain so kind of doubt I'll find it there. I80 truck stop website doesn't have this style out of the 257 they carry. Thanks for the help so far, was hoping for a direct link to an online supplier where I can buy just one.
Jim@HiTek 11/23/17 11:34am Class A Motorhomes
Need to find Chrome Hub cover Lug nut cover with nut...

Have spent far too much time trying to find a replacement wheel cover holding nut with chrome cap for my '02 Freightliner chassis. One of them loosened up and fell off somewhere on the road. It has 22.5" wheels and what I'm trying to find with no luck so far, is the chrome caps WITH the thin lug nut inside. They only hold the chrome hub cover in place, not the wheel. Here's a couple pictures... http://chaos.goblinbox.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/PB230001.rzd_.jpg http://chaos.goblinbox.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/PB230002.rzd_.jpg The dimensions are 2" wide X 1 & 7/8" tall. The nut is 1 & 5/8" wide X 1/2" thick with 16 TPI. I haven't had any luck finding this part online and Freightliner has been difficult to contact this holiday week. Anyone have a p/n and a source for this part? Those that do not seem to have it are Camping World, eBay, Amazon, and TrailerParts. But I'll take a link to any one of those retailers if anyone has it handy... Maybe it's something I can find at a Flying J or Love's Truck Stop? Thanks!
Jim@HiTek 11/23/17 10:43am Class A Motorhomes
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