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 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 261 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
Batteries...

My new to me and used RV came with two 12V House Batteries and would show 10.8 V just a short time after unplugging from shore power, so I knew I had to replace them. Some off brand car batts. Yep, those gotta go. Limped along for 3 months with them not able to hold a charge until I finally got up here to Oregon (with no sales tax). Went to Costco here in Portland and got a quote for Interstate golf cart batts (2X 6 Volt) @ $85 each. Not bad. I'd have to install them myself, but they'd cart them out to the RV for me, remove the old batteries, lift them up to the tray, and cart off the old batts. Nice. All I had to do was connect three wires. {Did check an Interstate battery center here in town and they wanted $154 each! Costco it is! Not a hard decision afterall.} Hoping that they'll last 7-10 years. They are taller than the brackets the RV manufacturer installed for the OEM batteries so I'm fairly confident they'll do the job for a long time.
Jim@HiTek 05/03/16 05:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: windows open in the wind?

I found that opening the large drivers window, and the large passenger's window on my mid entry Bounder, that the suction and wind push from vehicles like a semi passing me would not cause nearly the amount of sway (or that push/pull effect) having them closed does. But, I usually leave them closed.
Jim@HiTek 05/03/16 05:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Do I need to carry spare tire?

It also kind of depends on where you'll be traveling. I have made several trips to Alaska and had a flat in the middle of nowhere Canada and if I had not carried a spare tire and wheel with me, the tire guy told me it would have taken him 3 days to get a replacement for me...that's how far out in the boonies we were. As it was, we were only stuck for 4 hours. Tire guy had the spare put on quickly after he got there, and off we drove a couple hundred miles to the next big town and found an industrial area with a large tire place. Bought a used replacement to carry with us the rest of the trip. Now that I've moved up to 22.5" tires (from 19.5"), I'll get a used tire...that's 108 pounds. Worth the weight to me and basement storage space lost, considering the remote places I like to travel. With ERS, I won't ever be changing it myself, as a good tire truck service will be able to mount it on a wheel and my RV no problem.
Jim@HiTek 04/30/16 09:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: When to change hoses on a Diesel Pusher ??

Had major work done on my '94 Cummins and asked the shop about changing all the hoses...they kind of smirked at me. Had 128,000 miles on it. They did humor me and pulled off a rad hose, inspected it, and said it was good for another 100K. Had the tranni hose pulled off when I had the standard tranni fluid replaced with Transynd and they also said the cooler hoses were fine. Also was over 100K at the time. Yours does have the higher pressure hydraulic system so maybe have them looked at when you get to 100K? JMO
Jim@HiTek 04/30/16 08:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Quick question on slides...

With the help of a couple neighbors both watching and listening outside the RV for me, I tried several times to get the slide retracted but it seemed to want to jamb into the LR ceiling. No odd noises noticed. Didn't seem to retract crooked or anything though. Finally got a brainstorm and figured that the slide could be helped by lowering the opposite side of the RV and raising the slide side. So that's what I did. After extending the slide side jacks, and lowering the opposite sides jacks, the slide came in without a problem. Seemed to have plenty of space between the top of the slide and the ceiling. So now I'll do that every time I'm not completely level and need to retract the slide. I've been traveling the last several days to several different RV parks, and only felt the need to do that once so far, and again, worked great, slide came in without a hitch.
Jim@HiTek 04/30/16 08:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Quick question on slides...

Oh, good thinking. Don't have a DW, but do have a DB (dumb brother) who could do that for me. I don't often think of finding help after 12 years of full timing alone. Thanks for the tip, I'll do exactly that.
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 01:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Cooling, Propane vs. Electric

If you turn it off whenever you return from a trip, you'll likely get 7 to 10 years of useful life so I always leave mine plugged in and on all the time. The pluses for leaving it plugged in and running continuously (it's ready to go when you are!) far outweigh the minimal power usage. Your batteries are always ready too. As far as which method cools fastest? Never saw a much of a difference those few times I had to shut it off. But my gut feeling is for my Dometic, gas was faster. Slightly. My Norcold? Seems faster with electric. I'd tend to agree that there's not enough difference to be concerned. That "minimal power usage" of an RV fridge is somewhere in the rough vicinity of 2000 kWh per year, or perhaps $400 for the year depending on your electric rate. Maybe that's minimal to some people, but it's more than enough for me to shut it off when not in use and start it up (or do without) before taking a trip. For a quick trip, I usually just toss perishable food into a cooler and dump in the ice from my (house) freezer. From my calculations for my refer in my RV surviving my lifestyle, it isn't so high. Two door refer, 1 person usage, 3 amp when calling for cold, 8 hours/day average On time (I avoid hot areas), $0.085/kWh rate. For me, it comes out to around $90 per year.
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 01:18pm Class A Motorhomes
Quick question on slides...

Had to park on a slight incline...nose up. Dropped the jacks and leveled as best I could. Extended the LR slide. Except for the slight droop downhill in the LR, all seems normal. The rubbers did protest a little more than normal when I extended but I thought that might be due to the low humidity. No grinding or metal on metal scraping noise when I extended. I opened the basement compartment that comes out with the slide (under the table and chairs towards the rear of the LR) and found the rearmost gas strut was detached from it's bracket? Inspecting the ball joint and bracket assembly I see it's bent almost 90°. WTH? I do vaguely remember a loud snap or pop when I was setting up so perhaps that's when it caught on the frame...though I cannot find any damage corresponding to that bracket on the chassis frame. I bent it back into position so it's working OK, but here's my question: Assuming that the damage is because the RV isn't perfectly level front to back, and the bracket caught on the chassis because of that, how do I avoid further damage when I leave this spot tomorrow? 1) Can I pull the slide in to within 2" say, drive the 100 feet necessary to find a flat spot in this neighborhood and then bring it all the way in? (My users guide doesn't mention if that's even possible except it does have a procedure to follow that talks about driving with a slide extended). 2) Just go for broke and pull it all the way in before moving the rig? Any suggestions? '02 Winnebago Journey DL - DSDP. My first expirience with slides.
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 12:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator has spark, then it's gone....?

Going by memory here but I think most of the Onan's have a shut down system that removes spark if certain things don't happen while it's cranking. You can find user's guides for them online. Also, these troubleshooting guides are very handy: Troubleshooting Onan Gensets
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 10:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Cooling, Propane vs. Electric

If you turn it off whenever you return from a trip, you'll likely get 7 to 10 years of useful life so I always leave mine plugged in and on all the time. The pluses for leaving it plugged in and running continuously (it's ready to go when you are!) far outweigh the minimal power usage. Your batteries are always ready too. As far as which method cools fastest? Never saw a much of a difference those few times I had to shut it off. But my gut feeling is for my Dometic, gas was faster. Slightly. My Norcold? Seems faster with electric. I'd tend to agree that there's not enough difference to be concerned.
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 10:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane pilot not igniting

I would agree with the posts about checking your 'thermal fuse'. It's a small device inline with power to the DSI module and is covered with a black sheath. It's a high temp device but they often just age out even if it never got too hot. You can just take it out of the circuit, plug the two leads into each other (short it out of the circuit), and test without it. Won't hurt anything if you leave it out for a trip. IMO! Also note old-biscuit's point about the re-settable kind.
Jim@HiTek 04/23/16 10:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel Leak ... need mobile diesel mechanic

The banjo connection that was leaking in my case is just to the left of #9 in your drawing. The entire job, was only $250 or so. I'm well aware (now) that I was over charged as it only took the tech 2 hours @ $68/hr and the part was $25, oh, and the travel charge, so really, wasn't over charged. My son had actually spotted the leak, but I felt more comfortable hiring someone. Additionally, the tech 'thought' that my in-the-tank fuel pump was 'weak', whatever that means. I just installed a 8 GPM pump myself right below the lift pump in the fuel hose from the water separator and it's still working fine. Anyway, Mr. Wizard, good luck!
Jim@HiTek 04/21/16 08:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel Leak ... need mobile diesel mechanic

My '94 5.9 Cummins developed a leak and following the dribbling diesel fuel took the mobile tech to a Banjo connection on top of the engine that fed the fuel rail, just above the lift pump. Changed that, and all has been well for 87,000 miles. So if you can, try to find and follow the fuel. BTW, this was back in '04, and they went to low sulfur diesel soon after that. I read lots of forum postings about lift pump leaks but never had one myself...don't think they applied to my mechanic lift pump.
Jim@HiTek 04/21/16 03:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: steering stabalizers

You may find as you get used to driving a Class A the perceived handling issues will diminish. X2. Also, when you're on the road, watch nearby semi trucks. Those cost many times what a RV does and if they're wandering the roadway, then it's likely your RV is fine and it's just that day's weather or the roadways condition. One thing I check is truck ruts in the slow lane. If I'm wandering the roadway, I'll move over to the speed lane (traffic permitting) to check if it's better over there.
Jim@HiTek 04/18/16 12:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

Brett did make a good point, Smitty. And something I'll keep in mind no matter what I choose. Thanks for the anecdote. And yes, I do need to get a 4 corner weigh-in. No where around here that I know of does them though...Rosamond, CA.
Jim@HiTek 04/18/16 12:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

The original wheels are steel, and the Winnie tire tag recommends 100 PSI and the tires I'm looking at are rated MAX 110 PSI, so I think I'm good on wheel pressure rating.
Jim@HiTek 04/17/16 01:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shore Power Question

My '94 DP Bounder did NOT have that feature. I had to add a $20 Schumacher charger. So my Bounder did not come with the BIRD. It was optional in '94 Bounders.
Jim@HiTek 04/16/16 06:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

I have a 2002 Itasca Horizon 39QD and have been running the 275/70/22.5 Michelin XzA2 energy with great results. I run them around 90-95psi due to the higher load range. My rear tires are 445/50/22.5 single tires. Love them. Make sure you pay attention to the rolling resistance- as it will make a difference in your MPG. I've averaged 8.7-8.8 with the CAT 330HP over the last few years and I usually tow a car or trailer... 445/50/22.5? That's 17.5" wide. How'd you fit those on the rear axle and still have room between tires? Oh, wait, I get it. OK. Also, they're $757 each, plus 2 new wide wheels. I'm trying to save money... :)
Jim@HiTek 04/16/16 05:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Geneator

Here's the best troubleshooting guides I've found:Flight Systems
Jim@HiTek 04/16/16 05:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

According to the specs I find, all three sizes, 10R, 11R, & 235/80R, can use a rim with a width of 7.50". And my RVs tire tag shows I have 7.50" width. So I'm good there. The question is whether the increased diameter, almost 4" more, can be accommodated by the wheel well of a '02 Winnie Journey DL? Anyone done this?
Jim@HiTek 04/16/16 10:13am Class A Motorhomes
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