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 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 21 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: What is this Solar Charge For?

It's so small I first thought it was an auxiliary charger for a cell phone. Maybe with an outlet on the dash. But with the 'battery accepting charge' notice, maybe it is a charger for your Chassis battery...at least all those I'm familiar with charge the chassis batt because often, the manufacturer doesn't add an auxiliary charger for it. It's mostly charged by the alternator. Mine covers nearly the entire top of the AC, and it's only 8 Watt. Useless.
Jim@HiTek 06/23/14 11:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Moderator Alert!!!! Troll Warning now "madeinchad"

Say, Johnny, I've been retired for a while, but back when I was a working computer guru & consultant, I'd help web sites set their system up to block individual MACs. There are ways for the abuser to work around that of course but it takes time and money to do so and it's much more difficult then just inventing a new profile. Isn't that done anymore? Sorry, I didn't read all 12 pages so I don't know if you already answered this one.
Jim@HiTek 03/31/14 07:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Removing vinyl graphics and restoring finish?

You're in Utah it seems from your profile. Not that much of a drive to go down to San Carlos, Mexico for stripe removal and painting. I've heard that the painters there are very good. I had my 37' Bounder done in Mazatlan. Removed all the vinyl stripes (which were all cracked and faded) and repainted them on, painted the entire bottom of the RV...all the basement compartment areas, wheel surrounds, front and rear bumpers, the mirrors, the steps, the trim going up to the roof on the very back, and the rear view camera assembly. Oh, they also washed and waxed the whole thing too. All for around $900. When I looked into buying the vinyl, it was over $3600.
Jim@HiTek 01/21/14 03:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: can not propane inside MH

I'm with the crowd that think that the LP Leak Detector (near the floor in the kitchen) is either Off or is well past it's life span. Of course, the LP Detector and the valve it controls will not operate if the batteries are too low.
Jim@HiTek 01/13/14 02:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 3Amps

They'll last 5-7 days. If you've turned off the salesman's switches. And of course, you can just disconnect the ground cables (after the batteries are charged up by driving). No connection, no draw. All you have to do when you're ready to restart your trip is reconnect the grounds, push the salesman's switches, and reset the clock in the dash radio.
Jim@HiTek 01/13/14 01:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need recommendation for quality articulating LED TV mount

I just mounted a spare 32 Vizio in my guest bedroom. The Vizio weighs about 36 pounds. The bracket is rated up to 70 pounds. I wouldn't use this bracket in my rv as it wouldn't be rated for any decent dip or bump in the road. How much do you guys want to over engineer the weight rating to actual tv weight to accommodate any possible hard bumps. A frost heave sneaked up on me in Alaska once that would have been a good test. Once the arms are folded up against the backing board, I don't worry about it. Plenty of strength above the rating of the bracket as it's rating is for the full weight with the arm(s) extended. Naturally, I wouldn't drive around with the TV extended.
Jim@HiTek 12/20/13 01:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire Pressure Monitor system

Possibly, but whether or not YOU will need an extender depends on your rig. If it's a matter of $$, then see what it's like without it. If it's not, get it. Your length is right on the edge of needing one. If you don't need it, you might be able to return it.
Jim@HiTek 12/17/13 11:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need recommendation for quality articulating LED TV mount

There are several types at Amazon for under $20. I bought this one thinking that a +/-5° tilt would be enough. It isn't enough for me. So, went back and bought this one, which has a very large tilt range. As you'd expect, at $15, it's not perfect either. It doesn't swivel. But I plan on slotting the backing board a little as it only needs maybe 5° of movement. And the pivots are tightened with an Allen wrench but after several weeks of moving it in/out & here/there they haven't loosened up. My choice was also a smaller LED TV that fits between my front cabinet doors on either side and being able to pull it out 10" makes it seem even bigger. It's a Vizio 24".
Jim@HiTek 12/17/13 11:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Batteries discharging

Along with what others have said: On a 2014 rig, I'd suspect your tranni and engine have live computers in them wired to bypass the Salesman's switches. This keeps the Adaptive Memory remembering your engine's On-the-fly settings and shift patterns. Then there is the memory in the dash radio, and the CO and Propane safety devices. Cure is to disconnect the ground cables from the House & Chassis batteries. Takes all of 5 minutes. I keep a tool in the battery compartment just for that job. The adaptive settings for your engine and tranni will restore themselves after about 100 miles of driving. The radio you'll have to restore the stations yourself.
Jim@HiTek 12/11/13 10:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: The fridge won't work

You haven't mentioned a converter problem before now so don't know what you're referring to...did you mean refer problem? Yea, the refer does need both 12V and 120 to run on shore power and if your converter isn't charging the batteries, it would tend to work erratically. Thing to do is find out if the converter is working, just take a digital meter and measure the voltage across the house and chassis batteries. Should be 13V+. Many older rigs don't have a provision for changing the chassis battery while on shore power though and most people add a float charger to do that. Around $20. You might find an Aux Start or Emerg Start switch on the dash. That jumps the house and chassis batteries for starting up the rig, but first measure the voltage and see if the converter is working. If it isn't you'll need a jump. BTW, converters can be on GFI's circuits so make sure that it's getting power.
Jim@HiTek 12/02/13 08:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sealing basement compartments

Wonder if it's plain old butyl? Comes in tubes or in tape form. Fleetwood is not known for stepping out of the box and using esoteric products that might cost them a few pennies more then readily available stuff.
Jim@HiTek 11/28/13 10:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What is your cost of maintenance

1994 Diesel Pusher, 37', no slides, 190HP. Purchased in 2004. Put 73,000 miles on it. In 112 months of ownership, I've put $23,476 into the rig. That includes all repair items, like a new board for the refer, a blown engine repair, and optional stuff like painting, damage repairs, and consumables like tires, oil, anti-freeze, etc. Also includes insurance and tags. This comes to an average of $202/month. Does not include fuel expense...another $20,501. That's $0.25/mile averaged over 9.34 years.
Jim@HiTek 11/26/13 12:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: The fridge won't work

I've not done it myself but I've read around 50 threads by people who have and I'd say the vast majority of them love the residential. I believe that it's Samsung who sells several models that would fit different RVs, and don't lose the warranty if installed in a RV. Many people don't even bother with an inverter, which might be needed if you drive several hours then try to boondock. Seems they keep things cold during a long days drive. If you're traveling from RV park to RV park, and don't open it to often, it should work fine keeping things cold on the road without an inverter.
Jim@HiTek 11/26/13 12:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: The fridge won't work

Many RVs have GFI outlets that are strung to different outlets. Check your GFIs, perhaps one is blown and the refer isn't getting AC. Mine is wired to the bathroom GFI.
Jim@HiTek 11/24/13 07:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowing out water lines

The fresh water tank needs to be emptied of course. The small amount of water left in it after that is spread out over a wide area and won't harm your tank even if it freezes. So, no, it doesn't need to be winterized.
Jim@HiTek 11/21/13 09:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowing out water lines

Triple post removed.
Jim@HiTek 11/20/13 08:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowing out water lines

Dbl post removed...
Jim@HiTek 11/20/13 08:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowing out water lines

Takes me around 20 minutes with the air compressor too. And I really didn't like the funny taste of the pink for several days after I tried that method. Not really concerned about the health effects...it just tastes bad. And using air was good to at least -70°F up in Fairbanks Alaska over 3 winters. That was one of my concerns about the pink, BTW. Up there it's hard to find pink that's good to below -40°F but the town regularly gets to -55°F at night ($25/gallon for the reallllly low temp stuff)...for weeks at a time.
Jim@HiTek 11/20/13 08:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowing out water lines

I blow air into the shower hose while stepping on the flush valve. So, no, water doesn't collect there if you use air. The air hose to shore water inlet adapters are available almost everywhere, Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, on-line, etc. Under $3.
Jim@HiTek 11/20/13 12:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowing out water lines

Like you Dave, I tried the pink stuff ONCE. Never again. In 9 years of full timing since, I've only used air. The air method is far superior and so far hasn't let me down.
Jim@HiTek 11/20/13 11:38am Class A Motorhomes
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