I spent two years trying to find a RV I wanted and each time, I'd use RVServiceReviews.com to try and find an 'independent', qualified, inspector with the appropriate license. No inspector in the area of the ad, I would scratch it from my list. A qualified inspector for a large DP can cost $300-$500 for a through exam.
Problem was I seldom found such an inspector nearby the rigs I was interested in. Ended up happening by a consignment dealers place with just the RV I was looking for. So I did the inspection myself because that dealer had deep pockets in the event I missed something big. A year on...I didn't miss anything big.
Good advice up above.
I'd use the fuel, but I'd pour a bottle of Seafoam in first, and I'd carry a new fuel filter in the unlikely event that there is algae in the tank. I'd fill up asap at the nearest station too.
BTW, there's typically an infrastructure to deal with contaminated diesel fuel in big rigs in most towns large enough for a diesel repair shop so if something does happen...
The mineral oil isn't a trick. Recommended by battery users going back to Edison himself. The amount is 2 oz of mineral oil per cell. And generally you add it when your battery water is a bit low. Or you can turkey baster remove 2 oz of water/acid before adding. But with the big style batteries we RV'ers use, adding without removing any water isn't really an issue.
It works great and has been used, like I say, since wet cell batteries were invented.
What it does is whenever a bubble of gas is produced because of the chemical reaction of the acid with a lead plate, when it releases from the plate and rises to the surface of the water/acid, it runs into the mineral oil. This slows it's rise, than when it bursts, the oil reduces the amount of acid thrown into the air above the water/acid surface. This prevents most of the acid from floating out of the battery, which reduces the chemical interaction with the metals outside the battery. Reducing corrosion.
After driving a 35 foot class a for 12 years I did try many times to find the best price. After around 5 years, I decided it was a silly thing to be doing because the potential for being in a place where I'd be stuck was too great. So then I tended to stop at truck stops...the 2nd tier type places, Sinclair and others.
Now that I'm driving a 35 foot and pulling a toad, I'm 60 foot long. That is nothing to mess with. The attempts to find the lowest prices are gone. Now it's only one thing...will it be easy to get into the station, buy my 45 gallons of diesel and leave? That's all I care about now. Price is 2nd or 3rd.
I drive until I'm at 1/2 tank of my 90 gallons, and then start looking for somewhere convenient.
FYI for Garmin users.
There is an open source mapping project where you can get free updated maps of any part of the world for any Garmin. For Windows systems and others. You just download the selected maps, burn them to an SD, and insert it into your Garmin. I use Linux and have to admit it was a bit complicated to get the maps downloaded and into my old time Garmin Nuvi 360NA with its 3.5" screen but I was able to upgrade the US and add Mexico maps.
Here's the link: Free worldwide Garmin maps...
A good shop can drop the rear rad within an hour for engine access if necessary. The side rads have their bene's but they are also more complex with additional hydraulics and fan control circuitry. I've only owned two rear rad vehicles and I think I have a handle on things, but I'd sure like to try a side rad someday.
Norton's AV and antimalware is notorious for false positives. And has been known for that for many years. Back 13 years ago when I was a computer consultant, I always steered my clients away from Norton's when I could. Oh, they were great the first few years they were in business, but eventually the bean counters took over and their software got less and less user friendly as they shifted their focus to huge government contracts and away from individual users.
I finally dumped Windows a couple years ago in favor of Linux so I'm out of the AV knowledge loop now, mostly, but what I'd suggest is a concentrated search effort to see what other people are recommending these days with an eye to replacing Nortons.
Last I remember, MalwareBytes was the best out there, with fewer false positives.
I got this one just recently for $50. It says it has lifetime maps but I'm still working that out with the map maker. Also, it'll probably depend on how long the company stays in business.
But it's OK now...you can set it up as a truck, car, or BUS. Which I did. And the route it took me on from Gila Bend, AZ to Beatty, NV worked flawlessly. Not a single misroute. It also has Canada and Mexico which were a requirement for me. Some of the US brands don't (cough, Good Sam Rand McNally unit, cough).
For $50, with a 7" screen, all the normal dodas people like makes it workable for me...well anyway, here's the link, you can check it out yourself...GPS
So far, the large screen and the features makes it a winner for me. At that price.
We did end up crossing at Calexico East and yes, if you're in the far right lane it's way too tight. I made it to the border OK, but my friend got too close to something and ripped off the back of her RV. The lower cover of her diesel behind the rad. Someone in line jumped out, recovered it, and brought it to her so she could stow it inside her rig...otherwise she'd not have known.
Me, I got up to the US area and the openings are sooo narrow, I scrunched my drivers side a bit because the cement and iron post was so low, I didn't see it being bothered by something higher that whacked my drivers side mirror!
Not a fun time. We did not go to San Luis because it would have taken two 180 degree turns off MX-5 to get to the border and I'm still learning how to drive a 60 foot rig. Also, when we got to where the first turn was, I couldn't find where everyone else was doing it and everywhere I looked didn't look like I could make it. Soooo....
We did not head to Lukeville because of one 180 degree turn, AND the fact that the road is very remote with what appears, from the maps, no towns for miles and miles. My traveling partner was worried about getting help on the road if one or both of us had a breakdown.
So, we used Calexico East crossing. And next time, I'll be in the center lane until the last moment (RVs end up in the right lane eventually). Meanwhile, we both have damage from the crossing. Hers is much worse than mine. All I have to do is replace a marker light that was scraped off, and to remove the yellow paint from the stupid post I scraped. If there's body damage, it's hard to spot.
Wishing you the best with your project. We had Allure installed twice, ripped it out and used a different product.
Nice prep work, a huge job!
Don't leave us hanging...could you explain the "ripped it out" twice comment? Why? Was the flooring ruined by hot/cold as warned by Allure, or some other reason?
Although this is a year old thread, it's important that owners are aware of a major fiberglass roof weakness. Winnebago roofs are notorious for having the roof peel back in strong winds, and it has happened to Winnie's sitting on dealers lots right after delivery from the factory as well as aged Winnies. Their roof to sidewall attachment method simply isn't good engineering practice and yet it seems they don't want to give it up, or improve factory inspection, preferring to insist it's the owner's lack of maintenance that causes it, or to even deny it happens. Roof peelback in windstorms or on the freeway has been happening to Winnie's since they invented the attachment method.
Not being a big fan of hard work on a rooftop, I opted to protect my roof with a DIY solution before the rig gets caught in a windstorm. And the best solution I've found is using 2" wide Eternabond tape along the edges. Here's my blog post about it: Fiberglass roof...
Winter weather, short daylight hours, snow or rainfall on the panels, and nightfall all conspire to reduce charging from solar panels.
Best solution, IMO, is to just carry a wrench with you, park the rig with the batteries charged, then disconnect the two grounds from the chassis and house battery sets. Done. And the batteries will be fine after weeks of just sitting...assuming they were good with appropriate specific gravity when parked.
Takes all of 5 minutes and the cost of a used wrench from a thrift shop. Three winters in Fairbanks Alaska showed this works well.
After cleaning, you could pour some ATV in there. It's thicker than water and just sits there, and causes the seal to swell. Eventually, you'll have to replace the seal but with my old Thetford, I got an additional 8 years out of the toilet seal.
If you're only replacing all 6 because of age and not because of damage or excess checking, why not just replace 4 in the rear this year, and 2 in front next year? Or the other way around?
With that quote, you're looking at $678 per tire, that's way excessive in my book. I just found those Toyo tires for $485 with a quick search. M&B should be $40 each, replace the stems should be another $7 or so. Total of $532 each tire typically, M&B.
You'd likely save $876 just by shopping around. Or waiting until you're in a different area because sometimes all the shops owners in one area hang out with each other.
I always buy truck tires for the better deals, and IMO, longer life, so I buy from Amazon, get free shipping with a Prime membership (takes 5 days because of the weight), and have them installed at Love's tire stores for the $40/each M&B. The Double Coin 295/75R/22.5 tires are $286 each right now. So the six of them, M&B, would come to $1998. Saving over $2,000 from the quote you got.