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 > Your search for posts made by '[email protected]' found 418 matches.

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RE: Slide operation...HWH

Not really, Don. I'm traveling south and have arrived at my destination here in Pahrump, Nevada in the desert. Since I arrived I've been busy working on minor RV things, running errands, and taking quick tours of the area (you know how it is when you move somewhere new) so haven't worked on the slides since I got here at 2 pm yesterday. But, yesterday I was also in Tonopah where it's slight cooler than here. It got down to mid 50's the previous night and my slides didn't work until 10 am after it got up to 60F. I got them functioning again by wiggling the wires down there...whacking the back of the motor didn't do anything that time. I've decided to stay here for a month, but haven't decided on which spot I'll take here in the park yet. I'll do that today. After I move I can get back to work on this problem. Just now tested the slides at 57F air temp and...nothing. Friendly neighbors and I'll be here for a month so should be able to find help with testing soon.
[email protected] 10/18/17 08:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blower motor resistor

Those are mostly (in my expirience) a 2" long component made of a resistance wire, wound on a ceramic core, and riveted to the back of the control that selects fan speed. Sometimes there's two of them. They are very reliable. I'd check for a broken wire or bad contact first.
[email protected] 10/18/17 07:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cover for storage at home

They make RV garages like what you're talking about over in the deserts outside of LA. You could google search for fabric car ports focusing on California, line up a couple handymen where you are if you find anything and have it shipped to you. The fabrics are UV stable, allow air to circulate, and I've seen them with pull ropes and pulley systems that roll up the sides. And yes, they can be supplied with fabric roofs.
[email protected] 10/18/17 07:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee Series 32 step motor

Fixed mine in a '94 a couple times, and the fixes were fairly easy. Just contact cleaning twice and a rebuild once. There was that time when the bolts holding the entire assembly rusted through and the steps detached from the RV frame and swung free. Bent some stuff and cracked open the gear case. Even then was able to straighten everything, lube the gears, brighten all the contacts, bolt the case back together, add new stainless bolts and nuts to hold the step assembly in place, and, ta da good as new. Point is that they are pretty easy to work on, especially if you have a grandson to take it off the RV for you so you can take it into the shop.
[email protected] 10/18/17 07:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roof re-caulking

Also a fan of Eternabond. Splitting after six years isn't all that unusual, especially if you have a certain travel route or favorite parking spot that racks your RV in such a way that the roof twists occasionally. That will open seams easily over time. Agree that you should get a second opinion. You could also consider going to Mexico. The RV park you stay at would know someone who could do the job and it would probably be under $100. I had the edges of my Winnie fiberglass roof done with EBond by 2 guys, cost was $30 labor and $120 total. Took them all of 45 minutes. I did the end caps myself which doesn't look as good as their work.
[email protected] 10/18/17 07:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Oh NOH! That end cap seam is something us RV'ers seal up with Eternabond tape as soon as we buy a used RV. As old as that rig is, hard to believe the other owners never sealed the front and rear caps with EBond. Along with the other seams up there around other cutouts. You've got a 'potential' issue with that seam leaking for years over the driver and passenger areas and into the cabinets and the walls. Looking forward to seeing what you find up there...
[email protected] 10/17/17 08:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tips for using MH for 1st trip

First short trip would be to a large parking lot with painted lines. Park in the center, than put vinyl tape on the window to indicate where the RV is centered. This is for a Class A. A class C it's much easier to tell. Always downshift when the engine starts lugging on an uphill, and keep it there on the way down...lets the engine and tranni slow you so you don't overheat your brakes. As the truckers say, use the same gear up and down a hill.
[email protected] 10/16/17 08:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cummins failed to start

I had a banjo connector on the engine develop a leak and gave me a no start condition like yours. It had been starting up fine just the day before. The diesel tech who fixed it showed me what lead him to that and you could see a small stain of fuel on the side of the engine coming from the banjo. It was part of the fuel rail assembly on top of the engine so past the lift pump. Once that was replaced, no more air in the fuel rail and started fine. He also told me it had a 'weak' fuel pump. Whatever that is. Pump was in the front fuel tank so had 25 feet of hose going back to the rear engine. What I did was run down to NAPA and buy an external fuel pump, several brass connectors, an inline filter, hose clamps, and some fuel hose. Then mounted it to the chassis near the engine and plumbed it into the incoming fuel line. Had to adapt the smaller ID fuel pump fittings to the larger hose. Power from IGN was conveniently there near the engine. Cost was under $100...I think it was $48 total back in '04. And it worked fine for 12 years. Still working when I sold the rig. Pump was 8 GPM as I recall. So I'm suggesting that a no start could be caused by a small leak in your engines fuel rail somewhere, and that you can just add an external fuel pump if you have a repeat of the problem AND it turns out to be the fuel pump and not a leak.
[email protected] 10/16/17 09:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What's your Suggested yearly Maintenance/Repair fund/budget?

Wouldn't call any RV an 'investment'. It's a depreciating asset. Or some would call it a mill stone rather than asset.
[email protected] 10/16/17 09:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What's your Suggested yearly Maintenance/Repair fund/budget?

Counting everything like optional stuff I just wanted but didn't need, the insurances, the license and registration, than the actual cost of repairs and maintenance, it's come to over $5K for 20 months. So something like $158/mo.
[email protected] 10/15/17 10:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Of course I'm still learning

The further outside of a big town you can get to find a storage facility, the less expensive it becomes. And sometimes competition will help too. One thing I see here in the western states for RV protection are buildings with metal or wood roofs, and open sides and ends. Or perhaps one or more sides are solid in the direction of prevailing winds and storms. Many owners of those buildings add open weave fabric sides. Like sun screens. Allows wind to pass though for the most part. Stops most rain and snow. Gives shade. Much less expensive then a walled enclosure. Does require a little more proactive work by the owner to keep it from damage. For instance, in a wind storm, the 'walls' may need to be rolled up.
[email protected] 10/14/17 09:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide operation...HWH

Because of the possibility that placing the heater near the hydraulic assembly could have been a coincidence, today, preparing for tomorrows departure, I didn't set up the heater. But I was prepared too. It's important for my schedule that I leave tomorrow, and it's been getting down to the teens the last two nights. So at 11 this morning, I started testing the slides. I could get no movement from them even as the air temps progressed to 60F. Finally, since it was 4 pm and the temps would soon fall again, I took my rubber mallet and focused a blow to the back of the small motor on the assembly. Immediately went inside to test. And the slides were working. So when I'm in an area where it's warm and I can work on the problem, I'm planning on removing that motor, and the nearby solenoid, and digging into their innards to see what I can see. Probably be able to do that next Tuesday as I'll be in the Phoenix valley. Should be warm enough for work. I like Don's test idea, but today sort of proved it's a motor or solenoid issue in a very small area and I think I know which component.
[email protected] 10/14/17 08:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide operation...HWH

Additional info: So today, Oct 11th, got ready to head on out and slides wouldn't work. Kinda expected that so set up an electric space heater with fan on a step stool around a foot from the hydraulic slide assembly. I'd been waiting since 9ish and tested several times just trying to pull in the slides before I went with the heater. Only ran it around 5 minutes and the slides started working. Air temp was 44F. Ok, after a night of 20F, close enough to the temp that previously made it work so could be a coincidence. this seems a generalization exactly what did you warm up the pump hydraulic cylinders/rams hydraulic gearing/drivers solenoids I have a 750 watt room size electric heater with fan. I took it outside, and set it on a small single step stool on the ground aimed at the hydraulic assembly from about 12" away. So yeah, I warmed up all those items you listed that also are on the hydraulic manifold (see picture I posted earlier). Like I mentioned though, the heater wasn't running very long and the slides started to work again. That may have been a coincidence. I might have the opportunity to test that again tomorrow as I'm set to leave here (Winnemucca) before 11 am and it's suppose to get down to 16F tonight.
[email protected] 10/14/17 07:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

New horror genre...The Bubbling! Screeeeeeech!
[email protected] 10/12/17 07:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: The on going saga of maintaining an 18 year old coach

I researched big diesel tanks several years ago and found there's several patching methods that don't require removing the tank...depending on location of crack or hole. So I'm wondering, why not patch it?
[email protected] 10/12/17 08:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Baystar 3414 picked up yesterday

I installed a recording camera pointed out the front window in mine...didn't feel the need for more. Yeah, would be great to see your installation process.
[email protected] 10/12/17 07:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone ever drive off with a slide out left out?

Over the last 13 years of full timing, I've seen several people on the road with slides open. One guy and his wife looked to be 80 and they passed me (two lane road) going the opposite direction so quickly I didn't have time to wave or point. Oh, well. Once saw a 5th that had 4 slides and two of them were sliding out than back in at corners. So I've seen it happen, never done it myself. But have left the antenna up a couple times, and the door awning extended when I moved the RV inside a park once. Once left the 18' patio awning out and tried to drive away (doh!), only drove a few feet though. Once drove a few feet in gravel with the toad's tranni in Park and another time drove a couple miles with the tow bar installed wrong...car was weaving back and forth. Twice over the years have driven away forgetting to unplug or disconnect the hose. Embarrassing. My brother drove away once with his towed car in Park and ruined the engine. $5000.
[email protected] 10/12/17 07:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Baystar 3414 picked up yesterday

Remember...do NOT press that button on the dash that's labeled, 'Ejector Seat'. That would be bad. Have FUN on the road. Remember it's the journey, not the destination. Also, slow down. Yea!
[email protected] 10/11/17 08:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide operation...HWH

Additional info: So today, Oct 11th, got ready to head on out and slides wouldn't work. Kinda expected that so set up an electric space heater with fan on a step stool around a foot from the hydraulic slide assembly. I'd been waiting since 9ish and tested several times just trying to pull in the slides before I went with the heater. Only ran it around 5 minutes and the slides started working. Air temp was 44F. Ok, after a night of 20F, close enough to the temp that previously made it work so could be a coincidence. Pulled in the slides (once they start working, always work) and since it was 11 am by then, decide to spend the night here. Left the slides retracted. Just checked again hours later, with the air temp at 37F, and I can hear the pump runs when I press 'Retract' for a test (just to make sure it hasn't failed again at that temp). Now, that suggests latent heat in that massive mostly metal assembly (see picture above) is helping keep it operating at that low temp. I'm certainly not going to extend the slides now for a test since I'm leaving tomorrow AM. I did spend some time today inspecting connections down there and didn't really find anything wrong. Starting to think maybe Mr. Wizard might be right with his call of a bad solenoid. Has the signs pointing to something like that. Because of the temp dependent latency. Two days from now, should be where it's fairly warm. Kind of an interesting problem. Hope I'm not boring you all.
[email protected] 10/11/17 08:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Why not just vertically cut it into sections? With a fine saw so there's only the wisp of a kerf?
[email protected] 10/11/17 07:52pm Class A Motorhomes
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