It's probably 'good enough' but only if you also use good parking techniques, put up sun screens on the windows, keep the awning extended, turn it on early AM or leave it on all night.
Or best yet, be a snow bird and head north in the summer.
I usually clean as best I can, turn off the water, than pour a little ATF in the empty bowl. Let it sit in there a couple days. It will often cause the seals to expand a bit which will cause it to seal against water again. Usually only had to do it once a year after the rig had been sitting unused for a bit.
Usually the pumps aren't the cause of loudness, the mounting of the pump is. You can isolate the pump by putting in on top of a piece of plywood and putting rubber under it to quiet it some.
Also, what many people think of as loudness when the pump runs, with their head stuck inside the water compartment, is not that loud inside the RV and many of us use that sound to tell if the pump is coming on periodically when not called for. If it does, that tells us there's a leak somewhere. If it doesn't come on periodically there's no leak. So it's acting as a 'Tell-tale'.
Hah, neat idea Discovery4us, and a few years ago I would have done it that way just for the fun. Now though, I think instead I'll tie into the cars wiring in the trunk. Looks to be a simple job. Wiring is easily accessible and although the car is a 2001, it's very clean, and no rust! Only has 61,000 on it too.
Thanks for everyone's help, keep the ideas coming!
I was looking for a kit of parts and wires but it looks from what Amazon carries that it would make more sense to buy components and make up my own kit.
After 12 years of RV'ing I've finally upgraded my RV to a '02 Journey with a 330 HP Cat. Also just bought a 2001 Saturn LS1 as a towed. I'm in Portland, Oregon and a local trailer business is an authorized installer for Blue Ox so I've made an appointment to have the Ox base plate installed there. Cost is $394 parts, and $275 flat rate.
The RV came with a Blue Ox tow bar, the RV has a 7-pin connector with a funny 6-pin electrical drawing that I suspect is just a mistake on engineering's part, and there's also a braking system.
I plan on installing the electrical in the car myself since there's where my training is, but wonder what you folks that have done the wiring yourself used for parts or kits.
The Saturn has separate brake and running lights, backup lights, etc., and I probably need to add a switch for the 30 amp fuse Saturn recommends I remove.
Any thoughts on electrical setup with this car???
Thanks in advance.
On my '94, the spring broke on that lock (not the deadbolt) while I was inside. I lashed it in place with a zip tie. Eventually found a replacement spring for it and replaced the broken one, but I never saw the purpose for two locks, so I only used the deadbolt and left the zip tie in place.
My newer '02 Winnie has the same setup and I'll do the same thing...especially since the dealer didn't give me a key for that lock anyway.
So my advice is to zip tie it so it won't ever be a problem.
Bob's (robertsunrus) evaluation is spot on in my expirience.
I use to be a service manager and my department sold 'Service Contracts' (SC), we weren't allowed to call them Extended Warranties due to liability from that.
Doing the spreadsheets tracking it, I found that 10% of SC buyers used 90% of the monies we took in. That left around 10% profit. Not bad for doing nothing except making a phone call and selling the SC.
The economy caused us to look very carefully at the contract when we needed to get that profit up, and we didn't care much when the economy was good so the customers seldom had to complain. But we still denied some claims for things not covered or abuse, as spec'ed in the contract.
Since I worked in the industry and was familiar, I checked on SCs for RVs when I started RVing and found that the same thing pretty much happens there with SCs. When the economy is bad, they will fight you tooth and nail. When it's good, they'll pretty much deal fairly with you 10%'ers as we called you in the industry. But...it's the fine print that'll kill you even then.
And no, I've never bought one for my RVs.
I hope you'll consider Hikerdogs suggestion, getgoin. To me that's the most reasonable approach. I understand your anger, and I would be too, but Hikerdogs makes some good points. I personally, would want to talk to the techs, and talk to everyone at Winnie about the potential for other issues. It's unlikely that's the only shoddy area of construction.
Make sure you take lots of pictures of the damage, and inferior workmanship uncovered all ready. You may have to revisit your documents again someday.
Fingers crossed that this is the only issue.
Most of the west is in a continuous state of drought these days. Your tank is made from water safe plastic and can hold water for years without issue as the system is closed. Keep the water, don't dump for frivolous reasons, even cold can be accommodated. Big tanks of water have 'thermal inertia' and it takes days to freeze a large tank of water at 20 degrees in a closed compartment. Even longer if a small heater is put in the bay.
BTW, sometimes, the water in the water heater can develop a skunky, rotten egg smell. You can either drain it, flush, and treat it, or just ignore it. You don't usually drink hot water anyway. It'll go away after a few gallons have been run through the tank. The water in the main tank is usually fine.
For future reference, the following was developed by a RV'ing city water master who has a PHd in Chemistry, adjust the amounts of additives to your tank size:
Springtime Preventative: Add 1 oz bleach per 60 gallons of water
Troubled system: Add 8 oz of bleach per 60 gallons of water
To remove smells: 1 & 1/2 cup vinegar per 60 gallons of water
To sweeten water: Add 1/2 cup dissolved baking soda per 60 gallons of water.
Notice that the amount of bleach is minimal. That's all that's needed because it's that strong. Adding too much is as bad as adding too little.
Had a pleasant expirience today at Love's Truck Tire Care center @ 400 NW Frontage Rd, Troutdale, OR. Around 20 miles east of downtown Portland off I-84. If you've been in this area, Love's bought the Flying J that use to be here, and they still have dedicated RV fueling, propane, separate diesel lanes, showers, a store, etc. The tire center is over in the trucking area.
I had purchased a couple steer tires from Amazon, RoadLux branded tires (manufactured in China, under technical collaboration from Dunlop), and was unsuccessful getting local tire shops to mount them. I stopped by three places in the area and they either couldn't handle 22.5" tires/wheels, or like Les Schwab, wouldn't install tires they didn't sell. One shop could change them but had no way to balance them. And steer tires must be balanced. Size I'm installing are 255/70R22.5 @ $200 each, an almost exact replacement for the Michelin 235/80R22.5 XRV I'm removing.
(It wasn't convenient calling around first, finding a shop to install them, then having the tires shipped directly to the shop. I'll most likely do it that way next time I need tires, if I can).
On the way home, I thought I would stop at the Love's, and I'm happy I did. When I pulled in, they were a little reluctant to do the job, not because of where I bought the tires but because it's a RV. They had to call the boss. They couldn't reach him, but after I assured them I was easy going and wouldn't whine about a scratch or two on the chrome hub caps, they assured me that wasn't the reason. It is because some RV chassis' require special tooling they don't have. But once I told them it's a Freightliner, they went ahead and started the job. Turned out they did have the tooling for that chassis. The tech did use my assistance in locating the two locking lug nuts holding the hub caps on.
They appreciated that I volunteered using my jacks to lift the RV, and I appreciated being able to wander around the shop asking questions. They also crawled under the rear of the rig and got the DOT dates off all the other tires for me.
When they totaled up the charges, it came to a grand total of $108. That's $40 installation of each tire, balanced, $7 each new tire stems (recommended change out), $10 disposal of the 10 year old tire I was replacing (the other one is only 6 yo so I'm keeping it), $4 shop supplies. Not bad. I found all their prices very reasonable. No tax in Oregon either. They also sell big tires, and the tire guys are big rig mechanics.
So if you're in the Troutdale area, and are looking for somewhere to have tire work done, I'd recommend these nice, capable folks. Since it's a truck tire shop, don't be in a hurry.
And if the bad ground isn't the issue, there is a brain that controls modern dash gauges. Your chassis manufacturer will be able to lead you to a solution by providing test procedures, diagrams, and schematics.
Yes, I bought one at a Biglots store. It is their 'Home' branded stuff in the electronics section. I think it cost $11 or so. Has an internal built in, and a wireless external.
I also had a wired display from Oregon Scientific I found at a Goodwill Store for $2. Double sided taped to the dash, wired out to the inside of the passenger mirror.
Both of those devices were in my older '94 RV and I sold them with it.
In my newer '02 Winnie, there's a system built in. It's on the dash and displays internal and external temps. Also displays the direction I'm going. Let me know if you want the brand but I bet it would be a couple three hundred.
Then I have a new one from Howard Miller Model 645-697 that was a free promotion that has an external wireless. The display is a wall mount but I suppose it would work on the drivers wall or velcro'ed to the dash. http://www.howardmiller.com/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=12652&catalogId=13551&productId=1689625
I bought a '94 Bounder in '04 and drove it a couple years before discovering it had a manifold leak. One of my blog readers pointed out the black soot he'd spotted on one of my posted engine pictures.
I checked carefully and couldn't see where the leak was causing any other issues so I kept driving it that way.
It was another year before I made it down to Mexico where I had the broken manifold stud removed and replaced by a specialist ($50 USD). Also replaced all the manifold bolts with new, along with installing a high temp manifold gasket. Did some other top of the engine maintenance at the same time. That all came to under $300 USD.
I'm not suggesting you should drive your RV if you have a manifold leak, as each case is different.
Another weird 'rattle' noise I had coming from the engine compartment turned out to be the vacuum pump...the pump that creates the vacuum needed for cruise control and the dash comfort controls. It rattled for several years before it finally went bad. It wasn't until I lost both cruise control and dash comfort controls at once that I found it back near the engine mounted on an inside frame rail...still making the rattling noise only much louder.
Good luck. If you're close to Mexico though, they have great mechanics down there.