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Forum
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RE: Driving with Hazards On!
You were taught wrong. In many states have your flashers on is illegal unless you are stopped. In VA where I live you can have them on only if going below 30 mph.
Most states say you can use them to indicate a road hazard. I don't really consider rain to be a road hazard worthy of being indicated. If you don't know it's raining you shouldn't be driving.
I agree with the OP, flasher on the road, especially in adverse conditions make things more dangerous, it's distracting and makes it hard to tell who's moving, who's not, and who's going where.
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KD4UPL
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05/25/13 07:27am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: New TC and Truck what it all added up to weight and handling
I wouldn't run the tires overloaded. I would upgrade to 19.5 wheels and tires. I think it will handle even better than it does now. You're tires will also last a lot longer.
Otherwise, it sounds like you're in pretty good shape. My dually with camper, boat hitched up, and family runs about 13,400. That's 2,000 over GVWR. It handles great, the wife even drove it and said it handles better than when I had the same camper and boat on the SRW truck.
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KD4UPL
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05/25/13 07:14am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Need new tow vehicle
If you're unhappy with the 1500 Suburban I don't see how a 1500 truck is much of an upgrade. I would hold out for the 2500 suburban. That's sounds like the vehicle you want. You know you like GM and Suburbans so I wouldn't be that worried about buying one without driving it. However, if the dealer wants to sell you one he'll find you one to drive. If he can't find one who wants your business more and will find you one to drive.
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KD4UPL
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05/25/13 07:08am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Snakes
I'm terrified of snakes. I deal with it by carrying a .38 with snake shot. I shoot first and don't bother to ask questions latter. Any snake I see dies.
If I see one on the road I go out of my way to make sure I run over it.
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KD4UPL
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05/25/13 06:50am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Trailer connector- Ram
I built a splitter for the 7 pin but they are commercially available if you don't want to make one yourself.
The best solution is to install a second 7 pin connector in the bed of the truck right beside where the camper cord is. Then the one at the rear is available for trailers.
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KD4UPL
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05/22/13 07:55pm |
Towing
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RE: I 64 from Outer Banks to Illinois
I-64 has lots of steep grades going thru WV. Sandstone mountain is particularly bad. Afton mountain in VA usually has trucks down to 35 mph or so with. There are some other long pulls in western VA. Should you avoid them? Not if you want to get from NC to IL. The grade on the interstate will be far better than any alternate routes.
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KD4UPL
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05/21/13 07:38pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: I'm Sleeping on the Ceiling Tonight
If that were my camper there would have been lots of little holes from the snake shot in my .38. Yeah, I'd shoot indoors. I killed a rattler in my garage a few years ago. It peppered the sheet rock a bit but no big deal.
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KD4UPL
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05/17/13 08:44pm |
RV Lifestyle
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RE: Grid tie inverter with power outage capability
Matt,
It does not provide backup, but it does provide power from the PVs (without a battery bank) which I don't see often. It's great to see more and more grid tie systems with backup. Most of the existing systems I have seen do not have it.
Jim
You're right. I totally forgot to comment on the unique feature. I agree it's interesting and I love to see innovation. I'm curious as to how they've designed this thing.
Unfortunately I don't think it will be of much use to most of my customers. Generally people's top priorities during an outage tend to be water and refrigeration. A submersible pump usually won't run on 1,500 watts without even considering the starting surge. I'm not sure if a residential refrigerator starting from a mid-cycle stop would start on that much power or not. I've have my doubts but no way to test it. Even then, keeping refrigeration going requires power when the sun isn't shinning.
For the uses mentioned, charging phones and what not, it would be pretty slick. Just not a substitute for a true back-up power system.
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KD4UPL
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05/17/13 05:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Wire up 220V dryer in 5th wheel?
Isn't the 50 amp service into my RV really 50 amps per leg totaling 100 amps? I have to digest all this info. Thanks.
Yes that's true, at 120v. A dryer, being 240v, will pull roughly 24 amps. So, if you want to think about your service being 100 amps at 120v for some reason then think of your dryer as being 48 amps at 120v.
However, in the electrical trade a 50 amp camper service is 50 amps. The dryer will use roughly half of the capacity. To try and convert to 120v and talk about it as 100 amps is confusing the issue. That's just not the proper way to refer to a circuit.
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KD4UPL
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05/17/13 01:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Grid tie inverter with power outage capability
First of all, grid-tied PV systems that sell power back to the utility and incorporate a battery bank to provide the home's power needs during an outage are quite common. Xantrex and Outback have both offered this type of system for 10 years or more. The SMA product referenced by the OP is a grid tie only inverter, it will not provide back-up power during an outage. However, SMA does make a product called the Sunny Island that will turn their grid-tie inverters into a battery back-up system. This ends up being functionally very similar to a Xantrex or Outback system but at a greater cost.
As for sending power to the Utility; in most places that is called Net Metering. Net Metering has been allowed by law since probably the 1970's. Some utilities and states have different regulations but most use just straight net metering.
The way this works is that any power generated by your solar system is either used by your home or sent backwards thru the meter into the grid. The utility instals a bi-directional meter so they can account for this current flow. In this way you are effectively selling your solar electricity to the utility at the same rate you buy it.
For example, if your home uses 1,000 kWh per month and your solar system generates 800 you would have only purchased 200 form the utility and would only be billed for that amount. If your solar system generated 1,200 that month you would build a 200 kWh credit with the power company. The credit can usually be carried forward for up to 12 months. Net Metering does not allow for the utility to write you a check for excess power generation. To do this you would need a Power Purchase Agreement. PPAs generally have them paying you a wholesale rate for excess power rather than the retail rate you buy it at. Because of this most homeowners don't install a system that will generate more power than they use over the course of a year. This leaves them a utility bill that is essentially zero except for certain taxes and fees you can't get out of.
Buy the way, I instal these systems for a living.
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KD4UPL
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05/17/13 01:12pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Will RG6 improve my RG59 signal on my 5er
RG6 has less loss than RG59 so yes, technically, it will improve your signal.
However, the distances involved in RV cable wiring are rather short so the gain will be minimal in upgrading. If we were talking about a large house with hundreds of feet of cable in the walls it would make a bigger difference.
If you cable is easy to replace, go for it. If it's a difficult process of fishing new wire around I personally wouldn't bother.
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KD4UPL
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05/17/13 12:59pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Lake Anna State Park, VA
I come to Lake Anna from the SW so I'm not familiar with the roads in from your direction. Route 208 is a good road but is undergoing some construction just north of the turn to the Park. The road into the park is a "small road" for sure. Large RV's travel it all the time but it's a rather narrow road.
The state park is a very nice facility. The campground was just opened in 2007 so it's still fairly new and clean.
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KD4UPL
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05/15/13 07:42pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: 2012 Dodge Ram 3500 diesel & Eagle Cap 1160
If you're getting a truck with 4x4, diesel engine, lots of options, etc. And a camper with lots of options, and hauling 4 or 5 people and their gear I would look at a 4500 series. The 3500 will probably handle it but will be over weight I suspect. Of course, most trucks carrying TCs are.
If you stick with the 3500 you will probably at least want some good heavy duty shocks like Bilstein or KYB Monomax. Most stock shocks are junk to begin with. Other than that I'd see how it rides and go from there.
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KD4UPL
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05/11/13 03:55pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: "Little things to know" about 2500 series Suburbans/Yukons?
Here's what I know:
The 8.1L production ended was only from 2001 to 2007. The 7.4 L engine was greatly improved in power output when it became the "Vortec" around '96 I think.
The 8.1 is an excellent engine. I have one in a dually. It is quiet, smooth, and powerful. It is almost as powerful as my '05 Duramax. It does, however use a lot of gas. I get about 10 mpg no matter what I'm doing with it.
You may consider looking for a "Duraburb". These come from a company (in Florida I think) that builds them. They take a 2500 suburban and install a Duramax/Allison drive train in it. Everything is done with factory parts and it looks factory when done. I've seen a few in person and they look like them came off the assembly line that way. It's not really as expensive as you might think.
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KD4UPL
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05/04/13 05:54pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Newbie to solar question
A cheap (poor) charge controller can cause lots of problems. It's not the place to skimp. You want one that has programmable charging set points so you can charge your batteries to the manufacturer's specifications. A poor controller can overcharge or undercharge your batteries. Also, an MPPT controller will allow your panels full output to be better utilized than with a PWM controller. If you're going with a larger (less expensive watt/dollar) panel it will likely have a high enough Vmp that you will need a MPPT controller anyway.
RV usage, I guess because of price, is one of the last places PWM controllers are installed anymore. The home, cabin, grid tied solar industry has almost completely moved to MPPT controllers for all of their advantages.
I would highly recommend Blue Sky charge controllers.
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KD4UPL
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05/04/13 05:48pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Modding an F-350 up or an F-550 down for TC
You guys completely missed mkirsch's point about the brakes. He gave the equation (sort of).
In many states a trailer can weigh up to 3,000 pounds and not require brakes. So, if a truck, fully loaded to it's GVWR was pulling such a trailer, presumably the engineers that designed the truck have to take this possibility into account. That would mean the truck's brakes need to be able to stop the truck at GVWR + 3000 pounds. So, if you're NOT pulling a 3,000 pound unbraked trailer in theory you should have enough braking capacity to exceed the truck's GVWR by 3,000 pounds.
The 3000# trailer is set by the states (and some of them are 2000#) not the truck manfu. The brakes on the truck are rated for the max GVWR. You need to read your manual. Per my 2011 Ford F350 manual page 251 of the Super Duty Owner's Guide "The braking system of the tow vehicle is rated for operation at the GVWR not GCWR."
This is saying that the brakes are only rated to stop the truck with its max GVWR and not including any trailer. Again the weight of a trailer not needing brakes is a state thing not the builder of the trucks.
I have a Aluma 2990# flatbed trailer and it had no trailer brakes when it was built. When I towed it with the truck when it was empty I never worried about it as the truck at that time had plenty of capacity for the trailer loaded at 1500# total weight. Now pulling it behind my truck and camper I have added brakes to it now so the trailer is stopping its self and the truck is not.
Need to read your truck manual and not believe everything that is posted on the web.
I never said the truck manufacturers made the law, only that they hopefully are aware of it. Just because your manual says that doesn't mean they all do. On page 4-88 of my Chevy manual it states: "If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 pounds loaded, then it needs it's own brakes - and they must be adequate"
This says to me that the brakes on the truck must be adequate for up to an additional 2,000 pounds over the truck's GVWR.
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KD4UPL
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05/01/13 05:42pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Modding an F-350 up or an F-550 down for TC
So, if you're NOT pulling a 3,000 pound unbraked trailer in theory you should have enough braking capacity to exceed the truck's GVWR by 3,000 pounds.
Using that theory, I should be able to have the ability to tow a 3000 lb trailer with a subcompact car. ;)
I hope the smiley face means you're kidding. I don't see how you could draw that conclusion.
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KD4UPL
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05/01/13 05:39pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Modding an F-350 up or an F-550 down for TC
You guys completely missed mkirsch's point about the brakes. He gave the equation (sort of).
In many states a trailer can weigh up to 3,000 pounds and not require brakes. So, if a truck, fully loaded to it's GVWR was pulling such a trailer, presumably the engineers that designed the truck have to take this possibility into account. That would mean the truck's brakes need to be able to stop the truck at GVWR + 3000 pounds. So, if you're NOT pulling a 3,000 pound unbraked trailer in theory you should have enough braking capacity to exceed the truck's GVWR by 3,000 pounds.
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KD4UPL
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05/01/13 04:33am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Which camper would work better for me
I have a 2003 Fleetwood Elkhorn 11x. It is larger but I would imagine similarly constructed. I'm quite please with it but it is not high end. Some of the plastic trim comes loose all the time and the bathroom door opening wasn't cut square. The corners aren't quite right.
Mechanically I haven't had anything really go wrong with it. Structurally there have been a few minor leaks that I have had to deal with but nothing major. I wouldn't be afraid to buy another one.
Lance is generally a good brand also. Unless there's a huge difference in features or tank sizes I think it will come down to the actual condition of the units and the price.
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KD4UPL
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04/29/13 07:10pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Modding an F-350 up or an F-550 down for TC
The flatbed on my dually doesn't have wheel wells. In my mind that kind of defeats the purpose of a flat bed because then it wouldn't be flat anymore. It would make mounting tool boxes or hauling pallets or lumber or something more difficult because of the wheel wells.
My bed has a 3" channel above the truck frame and 2" going perpendicular to that. I guess that would make the bed floor about 4 or 5" higher than a regular pick-up bed. There is a larger than normal gap between the cabover section and the top of the cab but it's not that bad. The top of my AC unit is 11'5" going down the road. When I used to carry the camper on a SRW 3500 it was 11'.
The list of changes to make a 350 as capable as a 550 is extensive and expensive. Not worth doing really. You would have to beef up the frame, change the axles, go to 19.5" wheels and tires, etc.
C&C are available from Ford in reg. cab if you want. Dodge won't give you the ext. cab but you can get reg. and crew. As I stated previously, I think the biggest advantage is being able to get the longer cab to axle length so you have the rear axle farther back under the camper.
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KD4UPL
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04/29/13 05:28pm |
Truck Campers
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