Here we go again. Why oh why does everyone with a 1/2 to truck (or so it seems) wants to tow a big long trailer right close to all capacities????
That's too much trailer, try something 24' or less and don't believe the maufactureres statements that their trailers are "light." What a joke.
I have a '94 GMC Suburban K1500 1/2 ton with 350, 3.73 gears, heavy duty towing package (trans cooler, oil cooler, extra sway bars, etc.) Supposed to be able to tow 10,000 lbs. I tow a 22' 4500 lb Tahoe "Lite" (yeah right, maufactureres info says its supposed to be 2900 dry, it's actually 4300). Use an Equal-I-zer hitch so don't even know it's back there. When we towed a 30' double slide Arctic Fox we did it with an '88 454 3/4 ton Suburban.
So, if you buy this trailer, I hope I don't end up on the same hiway with you.
The last Champion I had was really loud (bought about 7 years ago). I think it was about 1300 watts. It was so bad I threw it away. So, are the newer Champions any quieter than they used to be. I assume this big one weights a lot?
Because of weight issues and the fact that we really don't need a 3000, anybody know if the new Generac 2000 is better, quieter, etc. than the Honda and Yamaha gens?
Just got back from a 2,000 trip from Blaine WA to Reno. Brakes worked perfect and felt real good, 'specially down the numerose mountain passes we passed over.
Sure were easy to install and all four were almost perfectly adjusted even.
Only 4 high? that's ridiculous, I've used the orange stacking blocks 6 or 7 (or more once in a while) high for 25 years, still works great. I'm still using the ones I bought in the early 1990's. I find them much more stable than wood blocks of any kind because wood warps and is rarely flat as a board (pun intended).
Stacking blocks are perfectly square and level and don't rock. They will also dig down into the dirt or gravel a little as they aren't solid on the bottom, wood blocks can't do that. The stacking blocks lock together, no sliding, wood can't do that, and screws can loosen and even break as the wood warps. Stacking blocks are also a lot lighter and easier to pack than pieces of lumber, stay cleaner too.
I turn the points to the front-rear, side-side to further reduce any chance of rocking.
I have learned over 30 years of RV'ing,, that the last thing you want to worry about is gas mileage, it's not going to be good no matter what rig you put together. I ignore the gas pump read-outs when filling up.
Furthermore, I don't think there is a lot of difference between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton gas mileage running solo any more. You show that one of the 1/2 ton trucks you are looking at only gets 13? Another way to look at this is to figure out yearly fuel costs at different mileages. If you drive 20,000 miles a year and get 15 mpg, at $2.75 a gallon you pay $3,666 per year. At 13 mpg its $4,230. Towing you'll probably get 10, so that's $5,500. So, if the 3/4 ton gets only 13 running solo, and the 1/2 ton maybe 15, so you only pay $564 more for gas to run the 3/4 ton. Is saving only that much worth risking your families welfare by towing with a 1/2 ton rather than a safer 3/4 ton?
Gosh I love RV.net. You all saved me big dollars and pointed me to a good supplier. Being from a generation who loved rotary dial phones and a computer/cell phone hater, I have trouble finding things like this on the internet.
So, ordered 4 backing plates/shoes from etrailer for about $120. I've done lots of brake work on cars, trucks and trailers, so I can see how easy this should be.
(Little edit here, of course without the computer I couldn't access RV.net nor get the help I need, so it's hate-love)
I just priced brake shoes for my 2004 Tahoe Lite. Is it true they can cost as much as $80 for each wheel? I haven't bought any for 20 years, so this seems outrageous.
any suggestions where to get a good price?
No it didn't really do any good. I'd take it to an RV shop since you haven't done it before and you're not at home. If you can't get it into one (call a mobil RV tech if you're in an RV park) go to YouTube to watch several videos first.
This is just one of many videos.
Also, while they're in there, have them inspect / adjust the brakes. When was the last time there were done?
I don't think I agree with this video, he didn't pre-load the bearings by tightening the castle nut then backing it off before inserting the "carter" pin. Also I wouldn't pack the groove in the rear seal with grease as that will seap out in hot weather and possibly get on the brake shoes.
Also have to disagree with coffeegrinder, never have had to replace a single bearing in 27 years of TT RV'ing on any of my several TT's ranging from 1973 to brand new (always replace seals though). I've repacked them all when needed and fortunately they've all been good. Couple of years ago we had an '85 Wilderness with original axles and bearings, repacked them with no problem, who knows how many miles were on them. With good maintenance (repacking at least once a year) they'll last as long as the trailer. Whenever I buy a used trailer, first thing I do is repack the bearings, check all the brakes and adjust if they are in good shape. Should never get a vehicle rolling unless you know you can stop it.
Another one of my pet peeves when I was tenting, was the hot water tanks on the trailer 10 feet from my tent firing up in the middle of the night, or the air conditioner running all night, or the 12v water pump chattering away. Just thought that was rude.
Are you including arguing with DW on placement of the camper???
Here I thought we were the only ones.
Usually takes DW longer to find a suitable site than it takes to set up. (She always says "you pick", yeah right).
Then about 10 minutes. Usually don't hook up sewer till second day. Been doing it for over 25 years so is all automatic.
Probably helps that TT is only 22' long with no hassles caused by cumbersome leaky slides.
Since I changed back to Equal-I-zer hitch, even quicker unhitching & hitching.
Thanks for the recommendation. Now microwave is working fine. When I first installed the new one, it lit up but didn't work at all. Plugged it into another outlet on a different circuit, then it worked. So, thought I'd re-plug back into the micro circuit, still working after 3 days. Nothing worse than diagnosing electrical problems unless sparks fly. Electricity is just a theory anyway. then Bill Gates made everything worse.
Ever heard of a Power Converter that makes a microwave oven go crazy? We have a 2004 Tahoe Lite with a Parallax 6300 Q Power Converter. We thought we had a haunted microwave as it would all of a sudden start up on its own, display 2222 once in a while, then just quit working, then start up again. We had to unplug it at night as it would beep and start and stop.
So I replaced the microwave and the new one is starting to do weird things also. Must be the Power Converter sending dirty electricity along the microwave circuit.
Any suggestions, ideas?
I built an air deflector for the back of my flat back TT that takes the air coming off of the roof and directs it down the flat back to break up the vacuum which helps it release from the air flow. Works good. I got the design off of the internet after googling "flat back vehicles" or something like that. The back of the TT stays cleaner too since the dirt doesn't curl back and stick onto the back siding. Years ago I used an air deflector on the back of the TV, don't think it did as much as my rear deflector on the TT. The TT also tows much more stable without the turbulence going on behind it.
Notice that airplanes are fat in front and taper to a point in back.
Says "Made in Japan" on the sidewall.
I've been buying Toyo open country's for many years and never have had any problems with them.
The new tires on my TT from Les were made in China
Thank you, I looked up my size and Tire Rack showed USA, but the size for your Suburban it did show Japan.
Yeah, I was actually happy when I saw the "Made in Japan" label. Strange how time changes things.
It's been a while since I've posted here. I remember all of the threads about how bad tires are these days, particularly those made in China.
Recently bought a '94 GMC Suburban and put some Les Schwab Open Country H/T 10 ply tires on it. Found out they were made in Japan. Hadn't seen that before. Hope they are better than the Chinese rags.