We had a wind incident when we had our previous TV/TT. We were towing into 50mph headwind (mostly, angled some at times). We were going about 35mph when we went under an overpass (4 lane divided highway, we were in right hand lane, very light traffic) and without moving the steering wheel, the whole setup moved to the left lane, it happened fast and all together, no sway, just one moment in right, next moment in left lane. We found out later that some of the roads not far from there were closed. We should have not traveled that night, but wanted to get home.
I would find a place to pull off if the winds were too high or stay put if forecast called for high winds.
We were towing on a straight long blue highway in Nevada on a completely calm day. A single rogue wind came out of nowhere and moved us over into the oncoming lane, luckily no one there. So, even "no wind" days can be dangerous.
been researching all the Suburban furnace repair sites and here. None of them mention my problem on a 2004, NT16SE. The fan motor is very noisy and even rattles loudly once in a while (wakes us up at nite), and the whole furnace even vibrates a little.
Took the insides out of the metal box and found that the motor shaft moves back and forth a little and makes a metallic noise that probably creates the rattle. The fan rotates evenly as does the combustion air wheel. I thought an electric motor shaft would have a little play in it?
It seems obvious to me that the motor is worn out but just want to be sure before ordering a new one at $80. I tend to diagnose problems before taking things apart.
We have a similar problem with the furnace in our "new" 2004 Tahoe Lite. Took it out for our first camping trip, everything worked, includeing the Suburban furnace, but the fan is loud and sometimes rattles like crazy. It's not a squeak.
I assume there is something loose inside so I'm going to take the whole unit out to check it. (Just not sure if I'll screw up the propane system when I turn off the propane and disconnect the gas line, can I just reconnect it and turn the propane back on and be ok)?
I think I also need to remount it on a rubber pad.
I've had other TT's with Suburban furnaces and they have been nice and quiet running. This one ain't quiet. Does this sound typical for a 2004 furnace?
Can anyone recommend a good yet inexpensive battery charger/maintainer?
I have a $20 Sears Diehard battery maintainer that not only keeps batteries charged but will bring dead ones back to life (if they aren't too far gone). Takes about 3 or 4 days to de-sulfate old batteries to bring them back to life.
I have a Jayco built in 1996 it was not maintained well. It had several roof leaks. When we bought it the PO did his best to cover up the mold odor. Not long after the ordor. Re-appeared it has been kept inside in a heated pole barn for over a year with the doors, vents and windows open. I thought by now the ordor would dissipate. Short of a all out gut job, what can I use to remove the order? I would prefer not to use bleach or any product that may bleach out fabrics. Thanks in advance for any help you can share,
87, if you don't have rot, but just old damp stink, there are a few things to try. Just airing it out won't solve it.
Unfinished wood really soaks up odors. I've replaced the plywood, or OSB bed base with new plywood, it made a difference. Under the bed, or in cubbies under dinettes etc, there is usually one-side unfinished 1/8" plywood paneling. I've used shellac or shellac based BIN to seal in the odors and stop new ones. It takes two coats of shellac to seal out the odors and to keep new ones from soaking in. slop it on unfinished floors too.
Steam clean upholstery, although it doesn't seem to soak up the stink as bad as wood. I've washed walls and ceilings with diluted bleach on a sponge.
For those musty damp areas under the tub etc., I use a 250 watt heat lamp aimed into that area to dry it out. BIN comes in a spray can also, so I spray it under these areas to seal out the odor.
BIN is a product used by fire and flood repair companies, ServePro, etc., to paint on walls and studs to stop smoke odors.
You can use Kilz to kill mold.
If your wife likes to use a lot of perfume, that'll help (LOL).
I always drain the hot water tank before travelling, towing with a 50 year old '65 Chevy van is very weight sensitive. Plus, 6 gallons of water adds 50 pounds of weight to haul around. Actually, all water tanks are empty when we tow.
Always winterize by blowing out system, quicker, easier, cheaper than antifreeze that makes water taste bad in the spring. done this since late '80's, never had a busted water line
You gotta get rid of the rotten wood that is causing the smell, so you may have to open it up and rebuild things. I've used Kanberra Gel Tree Oil, works pretty good when TT has been closed up in damp weather for a long time. As long as dry rot has not set in, the Kanberra will help.
I haven't used an ozone generator, but have heard they work great.
LC, I feel your pain, but your's is much worse than mine.
The last 3 used TT's I've bought have all had water damage, each time I thought they didn't and believed the seller's claims. At 69 and after 25 years of RV'ing one would think I would have learned (dumb and dumber).
The 85 Wilderness (Oct. 2011) looked pristine inside and out, but 3 of the corners were sawdust and the bathroom floor gone. Bathroom floor on the 98 Wilderness (oct. 2014) had been replaced before I bought it. But the underside wasn't sealed at all. '04 Tahoe (Mar. 2015) had had entire floor replaced but still had front water damage.
Entire floor was rebuilt with 2x3 stringers from front to back and covered with 3/4 OSB (overkill but solid). But water poured out from underneath when I cut into fabric covering, insulation was soaked.
So, I've got a lot of wet RV repair experience.
To seal stains and odors, I used BIN, a shellac based primer that ServePro type businesses use to block smoke odors cause by fire damage.
Also used Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) to seal and restore partially rotted studs and joists they use in boats so they don't have to rip out keels etc. Other CPES products will actually rebuild
the wood back to original.
Now working on odor. Trying Kanberra Tree Oil, vanilla candles and Febreez.
Thanks for the thread, was very informative for me, sorry you had to go thru this.
oh, sorry shoulda 'splained the horror.
TravelerTM told of unbelievable, shoddy workmanship, bad electrical connections, water leaks, etc, etc, and problems with dealer trying to get it fixed. It happened to be the exact model trailer we just bought so it was scary to read. According to other sites on the internet, Thor of California trailers in early 2000's were poorly built with lots of quality problems.
Before we bought this TT, I did inspect just about everything including underneath. I did notice the small tanks, which I can live with, but thought I'd see if I could find bigger ones that would fit, which is when I came across the TravelerTM post. One of his complaints was that the TT was advertised with 25 gallon tanks, but came with only 13-15 gallon tanks.
So, I thought I'd post this to see if TravelerTM was still on this site, or if anyone knows of replacement tanks for this TT.
Thanks downtheroad for the tip. Larger size tanks won't overload our weight capacity or affect weight distribution as we never tow with any water in them, including fresh water, makes it too heavy for our old tow vehicle. To flush or drink, we carry a couple of gallon containers of potable water. I even drain the hot water tank before hitting the road (that saves 50 pounds).
We just bought an '04 Thor Tahoe 22CB lite. It is everything we have been looking for for a long time. 1st priority, floor plan, 2nd weight.
We've wanted a floor plan with a made-up bed, dinette and couch; and a UVW of around 3,000 pounds as we tow with a 1965 Chevy Van.
The unit is in great shape, clean & straight and everything works.
During my pre-purchase inspection I noticed that the holding tanks were very small, but as our first two priorities were met, that is acceptable. Although, it would be nice to replace them with larger tanks.
Online, I found an old 2004 thread here on RV.net where TravelerTM reported about the horrible condition of the new 22CB he had just bought. I'm not worried about our "new" unit as by now the problems, if any, have been resolved.
TravelerTM contacted the manufacturer complaining about the small size of the grey and black holding tanks (about 15 gallons each) contrary to the advertised capacity of 25 gallons each. He was in discussion with the manufacturer about installing larger tanks, but the thread ended before that was resolved. I'm wondering if he was able to get the tanks replaced, and if so where could I get them.
TravelerTM, you still a member here?
Appreciate the responses. Unfortunately the TT we're looking at is a 2008, so the published weights are suspect. I'm well aware that even when weighed at the factory, a trailer is really unloaded and is lite as it's ever going to get.
However, if it's actually run across a scale, the weight of all the add-ons are known and can be calculated with some accuracy.
As for the published weights in the brochures and listed on the chart behind a cabinet door, they can easily be 500 pounds off. that's what happened to me when buying a '98 Wilderness "lite". All the printed literature showed about 3500 UVW. After being able to barely tow it home, I headed to a scale and found it weighed 4170. Can't believe I was so stupid to accept the manufacturers estimates, I've only been towing for 25 years and shoulda known better. Will I ever learn? (we did make $500 by cleaning it up before selling it four months after buying it. so all was not lost).
Make sure the TT isn't too heavy for your TV.
Manufactureres listed weights are usually low, so be careful
(Can't remember what year, but a while back Maunfactureres were required to actually weigh the unit when it left the factory).
I think if the rig hasn't sold after 7 weeks your price is too high. In my experience, when its priced right you'll get several calls the first week. If after two weeks the interest drops way off, the price is still too high. I drop prices weekly at $50 intervals until the calls start again. Sometimes, braking even is the best you can do.
We've sold two trailers in the past 6 months, both sold the first week, and we got the haggling price we wanted. Both trailers were old ('85 & '98) but everything worked and both were immaculately clean. That was the first comment everybody had when they walked in.
on two lane roads, pull off when traffic backs up behind you, keeps the hotheads from trying pass you on curves and hills. Here in Washington, it's illegal to hold up 5 or more cars if you can't go the speed limit. Holding up traffic gives us a bad name.