Although I've been towing for years, and have always had a transmission cooler on every tow vehicle, I can't remember whether the fluid should come from the trans thru the cooler then to the rad and out back to the transmission, or vice versa?
In other words before or after the the radiator?
Recently purchased an '04 GMC Envoy to tow our 4000 TT, has tow package but no cooler. On the Trailvoy forum, there didn't seem to be a consensus as to which way it should be. Since those using their Trailblazer or Envoy for towing was a minority, I'm thinking us RV'ers here would know best.
The climate you live in seems to be the reason for placing the cooler before or after?
Thanks much all. As usual the response is mixed, and that's what I hoped for to hear the good and bad. rjstractor hit it right on, the 292 is full of torque but light on HP. It's a remanufactured long block I installed in 1988 with a purpose built TH350 tranny. It does slow down on long hills, but just keeps pulling with no pinging all the way down to 40mph. The only time I have to shift into second is the 6% part of mountain passes. We've as far east as South Dakota and to Disneyland a couple of times. Never has broke down.
The wheel base is only 90 inches but with special anti-sway WD bars I invented there is no sway whatsoever (eliminated the chains). It is a lot of work towing with it, brakes aren't real good even though they have been rebuilt, gotta pay close attention front and back and start stopping early. We usually take the blue highways and go 55 mph. That was the speed limit when I built it.
But I love towing with it, we get lots of thumbs up and we are the center of attention at campgrounds.
For a while had a 454 '88 Suburban we towed 30' TT's with and an '05 Roadtrek with 6.0 engine we towed with also. I actually prefer towing with the van.
Sooo, almost anything will be easier to tow with. Don't mind slowing a bit on hills. Sounds to me like the Trailblazer will do us just fine cause I don't expect blazing speed and my antisway bars will keep it straight and level. Since some of you have been successful towing with it, that's good enough for me. Being a pretty good mechanic and maintenance freak, I should be able to keep it on the road for a while. I guess the one thing I worry about is will the engine and trans with over 100,000 miles typically be too worn out to tow well? (I know it depends a lot on maintenance). Is the 4.2 I6 considered a truck engine?
Anybody tow with a 6 cyl. Chevy Trailblazer? (could get by with a V-8 if necessary, love 6's)
We've got a 2004 22' Tahoe Lite we are currently towing with our 1965 Chevy Van w/292 inline 6. Been towing with it since 1988 all over western USA with no A/C. 25 years ago we could handle 100 degree temps. I still can but DW needs air.
So, since the '65 is my daily driver and will never get rid of it (DW says she is going to bury me in it), we've thought of selling her car, an '08 HHR and buying a medium size SUV that could tow the 4,000 lb Tahoe and also be her daily driver. That's why I'm considering an early 2000's Trailblazer.
If I can tear myself away from Chevys, maybe a Durango? (No fords or foreign cars).
was recently working on an '85 Wilderness TT, and found sawdust and metal shavings under cabinets and such. The manufacturers cut and saw and leave the dust, they don't own vacuum cleaners.
I've had more than a dozen TT's over the years, they all leaked sawdust.
I use the manual lift test. I loosen the hold-down nut and lift each tank an inch or so. I can tell by weight about how much is left. This is part of my routine when I go out at bedtime and put the Ponderosa to bed.
This works for me cause I know from experience what the weight of full and empty tanks feel like.
(I do have the automatic switch-over valve).
I monitor the proper pressure by looking at the edge of the tread, if the wear is right along the tread edge it's ok, over the edge, too low, toward the middle of the tire too much pressure. First, of course, have to make sure tire is not over inflated. If it is up to max recommended pressure and the wear is over the side, then the tire is over loaded.
the furnace is an NT16SE, the OEM motor part number is 230634, the replacement number on most parts sites comes up as 520950. the price ranges from $70 with $15 shipping and as much as $94 plus shipping. Couldn't find anything on Grainger.
We had a wind incident when we had our previous TV/TT. We were towing into 50mph headwind (mostly, angled some at times). We were going about 35mph when we went under an overpass (4 lane divided highway, we were in right hand lane, very light traffic) and without moving the steering wheel, the whole setup moved to the left lane, it happened fast and all together, no sway, just one moment in right, next moment in left lane. We found out later that some of the roads not far from there were closed. We should have not traveled that night, but wanted to get home.
I would find a place to pull off if the winds were too high or stay put if forecast called for high winds.
We were towing on a straight long blue highway in Nevada on a completely calm day. A single rogue wind came out of nowhere and moved us over into the oncoming lane, luckily no one there. So, even "no wind" days can be dangerous.
been researching all the Suburban furnace repair sites and here. None of them mention my problem on a 2004, NT16SE. The fan motor is very noisy and even rattles loudly once in a while (wakes us up at nite), and the whole furnace even vibrates a little.
Took the insides out of the metal box and found that the motor shaft moves back and forth a little and makes a metallic noise that probably creates the rattle. The fan rotates evenly as does the combustion air wheel. I thought an electric motor shaft would have a little play in it?
It seems obvious to me that the motor is worn out but just want to be sure before ordering a new one at $80. I tend to diagnose problems before taking things apart.
We have a similar problem with the furnace in our "new" 2004 Tahoe Lite. Took it out for our first camping trip, everything worked, includeing the Suburban furnace, but the fan is loud and sometimes rattles like crazy. It's not a squeak.
I assume there is something loose inside so I'm going to take the whole unit out to check it. (Just not sure if I'll screw up the propane system when I turn off the propane and disconnect the gas line, can I just reconnect it and turn the propane back on and be ok)?
I think I also need to remount it on a rubber pad.
I've had other TT's with Suburban furnaces and they have been nice and quiet running. This one ain't quiet. Does this sound typical for a 2004 furnace?
Can anyone recommend a good yet inexpensive battery charger/maintainer?
I have a $20 Sears Diehard battery maintainer that not only keeps batteries charged but will bring dead ones back to life (if they aren't too far gone). Takes about 3 or 4 days to de-sulfate old batteries to bring them back to life.
I have a Jayco built in 1996 it was not maintained well. It had several roof leaks. When we bought it the PO did his best to cover up the mold odor. Not long after the ordor. Re-appeared it has been kept inside in a heated pole barn for over a year with the doors, vents and windows open. I thought by now the ordor would dissipate. Short of a all out gut job, what can I use to remove the order? I would prefer not to use bleach or any product that may bleach out fabrics. Thanks in advance for any help you can share,
87, if you don't have rot, but just old damp stink, there are a few things to try. Just airing it out won't solve it.
Unfinished wood really soaks up odors. I've replaced the plywood, or OSB bed base with new plywood, it made a difference. Under the bed, or in cubbies under dinettes etc, there is usually one-side unfinished 1/8" plywood paneling. I've used shellac or shellac based BIN to seal in the odors and stop new ones. It takes two coats of shellac to seal out the odors and to keep new ones from soaking in. slop it on unfinished floors too.
Steam clean upholstery, although it doesn't seem to soak up the stink as bad as wood. I've washed walls and ceilings with diluted bleach on a sponge.
For those musty damp areas under the tub etc., I use a 250 watt heat lamp aimed into that area to dry it out. BIN comes in a spray can also, so I spray it under these areas to seal out the odor.
BIN is a product used by fire and flood repair companies, ServePro, etc., to paint on walls and studs to stop smoke odors.
You can use Kilz to kill mold.
If your wife likes to use a lot of perfume, that'll help (LOL).
I always drain the hot water tank before travelling, towing with a 50 year old '65 Chevy van is very weight sensitive. Plus, 6 gallons of water adds 50 pounds of weight to haul around. Actually, all water tanks are empty when we tow.
Always winterize by blowing out system, quicker, easier, cheaper than antifreeze that makes water taste bad in the spring. done this since late '80's, never had a busted water line
You gotta get rid of the rotten wood that is causing the smell, so you may have to open it up and rebuild things. I've used Kanberra Gel Tree Oil, works pretty good when TT has been closed up in damp weather for a long time. As long as dry rot has not set in, the Kanberra will help.
I haven't used an ozone generator, but have heard they work great.