Yes, definitely bleach it. Water sitting a long time in the tank will go bad, taste funny and could cause illness (specially in hot weather). I pour my 1/4 cup of bleach down the hose, then stick the hose into the filler tube and turn it on, certainly mixes it well.
Using a front wheel drive vehicle for towing doesn't sound very safe to me. The tongue will weigh the rear down a bit taking traction away from the front drive wheels. Of course a WD hitch could resolve that problem. FWD's must have different reactions to TT sway or even cornering. Just doesn't seem like a good idea to me. While I love my Chevy HHR, just have never liked the way FWD's handle, pretty much all you can buy anymore, except for pickups and full size vans.
I have heard it saves a ton of money but do they allow it
Have you checked DMV rules in your home state for registration requirements? Noble idea, but the 'revenuers' in your state might definitely be offended!
I bought a used 5th wheel in California 5 years ago. Thought I could get a transit permit and temporary tag to tow it back to Florida where we live full time. Went to California DMV office with the owner to do the title transfer. Didn't happen. California DMV said NO! Left the office $2500 poorer after paying registration/tag, title fees, & 'use tax'!
Fortunately when we returned to Florida I showed the tag office folks the California paperwork and did not have to pay Florida Sales tax, only the registration fee.
Interesting, we bought a Class B Roadtrek in Irvine CA in 2005. We didn't have to pay CA fees and tax if we hired a driver to drive it to the Nevada border. We eventually licensed it in Washington.
TRANSMISSION COOLER! The transmission is the weak point in tow vehicles, so be sure your vehicle has an external cooler or get one installed BEFORE you tow, ask me how I know.
As for used TT's. We recently bought a pristine 22' 1985 Wilderness for $2200. best one we've ever had (have owned over a dozen new TT's since 1988). Like new inside and out. Every thing in it is made in the USA, so everything works good. I knew it had water damage (mainly in 3 of the corners and bathroom floor) before I bought it. It was relatively easy to fix, plus I love fixing things. So, check for water damage mainly in the corners where caulking can shrink. Jump around on the floor to see if there are any soft spots. Look for dark spots on the walls and inside of cabinets.
Next check the brakes and bearings. You'll need to remove a wheel to do this. In a used trailer, you'll probably have to adjust and/or fix parts of them including electrical. As the Wilderness had sat in an RV park for most of its like, it had the original brakes and bearings. They were stuck and wouldn't move. Sprayed lots of brake cleaner on them and now they work great, with the original shoes, springs and magnets. Some of the electrical connections were corroded so I did replace some wires.
Anyway, got to look over used TT's closely. If you know a good TT mechanic or someone who knows about vehicles, take them along. Good luck! (oh yea, be ready for lots of disappointments when you go look at a TT that looked really good on Craig's List, most of them don't match the photos. We found some dealers that really covered problems up).
I've been driving for 52 years and towing for half that. until recently I've never torqued lug nuts, but I do now since I finally bought a torque wrench (for other purposes). There are several very knowledgable people in this forum that maybe can answer a question. Should the threads on the studs be cleaned and/or sprayed with a lubricant-penetrating oil? (I use Aero-Kroil). In other words, do I screw lug nuts on dry or wet?
Low to the ground as possible for better aerodynamics;
Old enough to be pre-Chinese and all USA;
no leaking slidesWe're with you all the way! (Oh, accept ours is Canadian...) Let's just say all North American for that part...
Love those Awards, tried to find one once, didn't
As I tow with a short wheel base 1965 Chevy Van, I used to use two anti-sway bars, til I replaced the chain on my WD hitch with a square steel tube, bolted the upper end to the A-frame, drilled right thru the snap-up mount, then a bolt thru the U-bolt on the bars. I tighten the upper bolt thru the A-frame real tight for a lot of friction, so it acts like the expensive Equal-I-zer,Reese etc. anti sway hitches. Sooo simple, fee and easy. I finally figured out that all the anti sway hitches do is either eliminate the chain and/or severley restrict it from moving too much and too easy using friction. For safety sake, I do use one of the anti-sway bars, lightly tightened. Now instead of those skittery back and forth movements and of course big swaying from wind or semi's, it's rock solid back there. Works so good I should probably patent it.
I'd also measure the width, TT's seem to vary a bit. I alwasys take a walk around the TT and get on my knees to look under, before taking off, looking for anything I haven't closed or stuff hanging down. It also gives me the opportunity to study the height, width and length so I can visualize it while underway, especially for leaving enough room to safely move back into the right hand after passing a Yugo.
while it's in the driveway, turn on everything using AC and DC. Be ready to fix a few things in a TT, whether new or used (had both). It's almost impossible to take everything you'll need even though you'll take way too much stuff. As you go thru the day and night you'll discover things that you need to do what you need to do, but can't because you didn't bring the right stuff or even know what to bring. Unfortunately that's just the way it is, and that's why to camp close to home. Weve been RV'ing since the late '80's and we still forget stuff. CHECK BRAKES AND BEARINGS FIRST, then tires.
I'm north of Seattle, watching it rain a lot. Two years ago I repaired bad water damage in the bath room and 3 of the corners, outside. Since I didn't have to have the area open for a long period of time, I would wait for a non-rainy day and work on it and get it closed back up. A big problem was that the butyl rubber tape was hard to work with in 40-50 degree temps so had to use a heat gun to make it pliable. Also the caulking was a little difficult to work with, wouldn't flow very well.
Came out a little messy. So, I don't see how you could replace a roof in the rain, it will not dry out until summertime, mine stayed damp until summer when temps got over 60 with a lot of very rare sunshine.
(PB) B'laster polish and cleaner beats everything else I've ever used. Takes off bugs, black streaks, tar, etc. etc. And is really easy to apply and wipe off and can be used in brite sun. I don't even bother washing the TT first. Works good on rubber gaskets and glass. Beats Nufinish by a mile, leaves siding with a very clean and shiny surface, lasts longer than wax (polish is much better than wax, no build up). Problem is it is very hard to find. The one place I've found it is at Hardware Sales, a gigantic hardware store here in Bellingham WA. (Made by the PB Blaster penetrating oil people). I also use it on my very oxidized 65 Chevy Van, it'll give me a little semi gloss shine for a while. NuFinish didn't do anything.
Our '85 Wilderness is in pristine shape except for a lot of surface rust on the frame. It was never towed much but we think it was parked near the ocean for many years. I did use a large wire brush to knock off the loose stuff and then sprayed with Rustoleum rust reformer. Worked good under the TT. Didn't work so good on the A frame. I had a hard time removing two layers of old paint that had rusted thru. Hit it with the rust reformer which is also supposed to act as a primer. Rust is coming back thru the new paint, probably didn't get all the rust covered the first time as I have little patience when it comes to painting.
It's the water under pressure (or at least fills up the pipe) that is left in the small supply pipes that will expand when frozen and split said pipe.
It's water in any confined space. I've seen a little bit of water trapped in the threads of a water filter canister split the threads of the cannister. I've had lawn sprinklers split open even though they where not capped and there was room for water to expand. I've had a small drop of water in an air compressor filter drain split the drain valve open. I'm not about to risk having a sewer valve split open because there was a little water between the blade and valve body - not when it's so easy to prevent with just a little antifreeze.
Good points, sounds logical, I'll reconsider, but it's never happened to me in over 25 years. I think I see the difference in our points of view, here in the Pacific NW it doesn't freeze much, if it does, just a little below 32 (unless we get a northeaster, but it lasts less than a week). I assume it gets really cold for extended periods of time in Buffalo?, therefore antifreeze would be mandated.
been RV'ing since 1988, used antifreeze the first year, none since, no broken pipes. Once you drain the grey and black tanks why add antifreeze? The tanks are big so are the drain pipes, with no or little water in them, there is no way freezing could break anything. It's the water under pressure (or at least fills up the pipe) that is left in the small supply pipes that will expand when frozen and split said pipe. I do pour antifreeze in the p-traps cause water will stay in those.