I think if the rig hasn't sold after 7 weeks your price is too high. In my experience, when its priced right you'll get several calls the first week. If after two weeks the interest drops way off, the price is still too high. I drop prices weekly at $50 intervals until the calls start again. Sometimes, braking even is the best you can do.
We've sold two trailers in the past 6 months, both sold the first week, and we got the haggling price we wanted. Both trailers were old ('85 & '98) but everything worked and both were immaculately clean. That was the first comment everybody had when they walked in.
on two lane roads, pull off when traffic backs up behind you, keeps the hotheads from trying pass you on curves and hills. Here in Washington, it's illegal to hold up 5 or more cars if you can't go the speed limit. Holding up traffic gives us a bad name.
I've traveled that highwy, is beautiful and a challenge for a TT. Y-Guy is right, pull off often and let traffic go by. There's a lot of traffic on the road and hotheads will do dumb and dangerous things if they have to follow you for miles, lots of curves so they can't pass much. Plus, hogging the road gives us all a bad name.
The seller did send us the weight off of the rating plate, printed in the cabinet and off of the 2001 Sierra catalog. they all say around 3200 pounds. Since it hasn't been actually weighed, I know I just can't be sure. I don't think the lady selling it would want to go to the trouble of towing it to a weigh station. That's why I'm wondering how much weight a Toyota 6 cyl 4-Runner will tow, or if anyone here has ever owned a 2001 22ft Sierra Lite and have any idea how much it weighed. I assume the 4-Runner is rated as a half ton?This would give me clue.
The 292 engine in the van has lots of power, that's not the problem, I just don't like to be towing a trailer that's heavier than the tow vehicle. the 292's were used in wreckers before the big block Chevy V-8 was available, like I said torque and towing power is what the 292 was built for. I've been towing with it since 1988 and it's now got 90,000 of towing miles on it. Has never failed me.
I am well aware that the weight ratings on trailers built before the manufacturers had to weigh the TT's as the leave the factory are not at all accurate, that's why I'm hesitant to drive 6 hours to see it. I'm still very interested in this TT it's just that the floor plan we want is hard to find in a small older trailer. I haven't been able to find anything on the internet about the older Sierras. So I'm turning to my fellow RV'ers.
If the Sierra is actually close to 3200 pounds unloaded as stated on the tag in the cabinets, then the van will tow it safely. What I need is a trailer than weighs no more than a true 3500 lbs unloaded. That's what all of our prior trailers weighed. My concern, is that after driving 300 miles, we will find that it weighs a lot more than the 3200 lbs claimed by the manufacturer. I thought if I could get an idea from you Toyota owners how much weight a 4-runner will tow with the 6 cyl. engine, then that would give me an idea how heavy the trailer really is.
We travel light with no water in the tanks including the hot water tank, only one propane tank full and keep the amount of junk in the TT to a minimum.
As the old van weighs about 3500 pounds, I don't want my TT to be much more than that. Our last TT, a pristine 85 Wilderness weighed that much and it was very nice towing combination. Both were weighed at a local scale. We stupidly sold it cause DW didn't like setting up the gaucho for bed everynite and wanted a made-up-bed TT. So, we bought a 98 Wilderness "Lite" based on the manufacturers estimated weight of 3600 lbs, I weighed it and it was 4170, just too much for the van. The 292 inline 6 would pull it, but it was like the tail wagging the dog, didn't feel safe. I do feel like an idiot. I've been towing for 25 years and have bought a lot of trailers and should have known better than to believe estimated weights.
Finding a small TT with a front bedroom, center couch and a dinette has proven to be very difficult. Plus, I really need the front to slope back a lot for good aerodynamics. We've located a 22' Sierra 330 miles away from us (Blaine to Pasco in Washington state). I actually don't mind water damage or other broken things cause I enjoy fixing them up, its the weight and floor plan that's all important. So, I was hoping someone on the forum had had one and tell me what they towed it with, or had ever had it weighed. I hate to drive that far and find that it is too heavy.
The lady selling the TT towed it over Snoqualmie pass with a 2013 Toyota 4-Runner with the 6 engine and said it did fine. Can anyone towing with one tell me what towing capacity it has? What size TT do you tow with it? Is it as big as a pick-up? I'm a Chevy only guy, I am not familiar with any Japanese vehicle.
We have towed TT's all over the western US, over the Cascades and Rockies and down to the desert southwest a lot, so the van can do the job if the TT is not too heavy. In 1965, there were no tow ratings available, just carrying capacity. It's a half ton, but vehicles were built much stronger in those days, they used thick heavy duty steel. I'm curious how the van compares with a 4-Runner.
One would think after 69 years of walking around on this earth, one should be done making mistakes. Guess not.
anybody had a 2001 Sierra Lite 22ft. travel trailer? I'd like to find out how much this unit actually weighs, UVW
I tow with a '65 Chevy Van so knowing the actual weight is very important
also, when were TT manufacturers first required to weigh their trailers as they left the factory?
Sun (which I wish he had more of here).
Owned a new Arctic Fox when lived in Las Vegas. After a year in the hot sun I noticed that some of the decals were beginning to separate and the skin beginning to delaminate.
Here in the rainy Pacific NW, recently had a 1985 Wilderness with perfect condition decals.
seesh, my post sure generated lots of comments, most negative (that's ok doesn't bother me). If you read it closer I said "I DON'T THINK" its a good idea to tow a TT heavier than the TV." So just my opinion, observation, and experience towing many TT's with a 1/2 ton since 1988. And, I'm not criticizing anyone using a 3/4 ton and up that are made to tow heavier TT's than the TV. Used a 3/4 ton Suburban myownself to tow really heavy 2-slide out Arctic Foxes. Just won't do it with a 1/2 ton.
I jumped on this thread cause it just seems that every thread I read where the poster wants some advice regarding towing with a 1/2, they always seem to want to tow big long TT's that might exceed tow ratings. So I make my comment/observation based on my experience, take it or leave it.
As for one comment that their 30' weighs less than a 24', had that myself, had a 30' Trail Lite that weighed a lot less than a 24 foot Komfort with a slide out.
Here's another controversial comment, I think longer TT's are more sway stable than short ones, again, based on experience.
I wouldn't recommending using a TT that's much heavier than the TV. Plus, I don't think the 5.3 engine has a enuff power to tow that much weight comfortabley. The 6.0 is much better. I've had a 6.0 in a Roadtrek Class B that would haul the Roadtrek's 8000 lbs and a 4000 pound TT and got 11 mpg.
For some reason 1/2 ton truck owners want to use them to tow heavy 30' TT's. Why is that? Get a 3/4 ton for safety's sake or keep the TT around 24'. Makes no sense to me, is dangerous. I don't think its a good idea to tow a trailer that weighs a lot more than the TV. And as others have noted, you also have to account for all of the weight in the truck itself, a lot more junk in there than you realize.
I've towed with a 1/2 ton, 1965 Chevy Van with s 292 inline 6 since 1988. Except for a couple of bad choices, I always make sure the TT & TV weigh about the same. The van weighs 3700 lbs loaded and it has no vehicle weight ratings like the newer trucks have.
I've towed TT's that weigh more than 4,000 lbs, the old van has no trouble towing them power and suspension wise, but it's uncomfortable having that heavy TT controlling the TV. This old Chevy's frame and suspension components are built stronger than today's trucks so weight ratings haven't meant much to me. There's about 250,000 miles on the van itself and 90,000 on the 292. Never broken down or been stranded. I keep it well maintained and stay within the limits of the vehicle.
DO NOT USE THE SILICONE, IF YOU DID, TAKE IT OFF!
Couple of years ago I bought an 85 Wilderness that I knew had major water damage in 3 corners. The corner studs had been reduced to sawdust. Strangely enuff very little of the water damage was visible inside and not at all on outside. the culprit was silicone seal. The previous owners had put silicone over the original caulking. All it did was separate from the old caulking and from the original aluminum siding and was actually trapping and holding water and sending it inside the trailer. After rebuilding the corners I caulked the whole trailer with Pro-flex. No more leaks.
Years ago I had cut a sunroof into my '65 Chevy Van tow vehicle. After many years it started leaking so I ran silicone caulk around it. It kept leaking and I again discovered that it had pulled away from the sunroof frame and was trapping water and sending it directly into the van. Used Sikaflex 221 (better than Pro-Flex) this time, no more leak.
(I agree that Dicor is a good product and should be used rather than silicone).
After using the pink stuff the first year of RV'ing (1987), then tasting it on the first, second and third camping trips, I've been blowing out the lines ever since. I don't use shut off-diverting valves, I blow out the system from the drain hole of the hot water tank. Works great. My air pump has a lot of pressure.
First, find the leak or everthing you do will be for naught.
When I bought our '85 Wilderness (nearly pristine except for water damage) I knew it had water damage, but was surprised that 3 of the corners were so rotten the studs fell out in pieces and bathroom floor almost completely gone. really bad caulking jobs allowed the water in at the corners. Those leaks did not reach the bathroom floor. Took a long time to discover that the sink p-trap had been very slowly leaking (drop or two at a time when using sink), that the water over 29 years had migrated under the tub and in front of the sink. That was hard to find. Being very handy and a carpenter/mechanic, I repaired everthing during last winter (not bad in Pacific NW).
The surprising thing is that none of the leaks damaged or even showed up in the interior it was all hidden.
One reason TT's leak, is that going down the road the vehicle is twisting and shaking over bumps etc., this loosens things up and creates gaps. That's why you need to inspect the caulking at least once a year and maybe re-caulk every two. I wouldn't agonize over a leak, I say all trailers have leaked, are leaking now, and will leak tomorrow.
opnspaces, haven't been on here for a while so just saw your post. The rig now stops so much better that I don't have to use the manual lever if I don't want to. However I want to. I apply it very lightly to start slowing everything down along with the engine on compression (the 292 has a lot of it). I finally apply the brake pedal to bring it to a complete stop. Makes for a very smooth stop.
I primarily use the manual lever as my tow vehicle, being a 1965 Chevy Van, never had very effective brakes (plus its 49 years old). So I prefer to use the trailer brakes to help out the old beast, plus its cheaper to replace trailer brake shoes than the van brakes. Parts are getting harder to find for the '65.
Note - the van brakes have been completely rebuilt with new master cylinder, brake lines, shoes, springs and cylinders, so they are as good as they can get. I don't tow stupid.
way too many dummy trailer towers on the road, why didn't he slow down?
Last week, on our way to eastern WA going over Stevens pass, saw a bad RV accident. Based on the black "S" shaped tire tracks all over the road, it was clear that TT swayed out of control and put the TT on its side and destroyed the TT. The tracks were all over both lanes (two lane road), just lucky no one was coming the other way.
It worked! Rewired the whole brake system and it really improved the braking ability of the TT. Feels much better to be able to slow down and stop like it should. When stepping on the brake pedal, I can definitely feel the trailer brakes engage just before the TV's. Stopping is no longer an adventure. Thanks all for the comments and advice.
(All of the brake components are in very good shape and all work freely).