RE: The way we used to do it.
I think the accident rate is caused partially by the fact that cars and trucks are too easy to drive these days, with power steering, power brakes, cruse control, big engines, computers, GPS (don't need it), distracting television screens in front of the driver. This opinion is by experience. For years we towed with a 65 Chevy Van with a big six cylinder engine (292), no power steering, no cruise control, no computer no power brakes. I had to pay constant attention to how the engine was performing (over heating, etc., never has) and drive way ahead of myself in order to anticipate potential dangerous situations and check the rear views often to be ready for semi's passing me. Never had an accident from 1988 to 1992 towing over 60,000 miles during that time. In 1993 we bought a 1988 454 Suburban with all the bells and whistles in order to tow larger TT's. In 2005 we upgraded to a Roadtrek Class B that was fully loaded. We towed a 20 foot TT with it. It towed and ran smooth, was very powerful and had all modern features. Quite frankly, it was boring to tow with it because the computer took care of everything, so all I had to do was get up to speed, set the cruise control and sit back the seat and just hold onto the steering wheel. It was too easy to lose concentration and drive without the necessary carefullness to be ready to stop, slow down or swerve to avoid accidents, drunk drivers or even road debris. Due to the great recession we had to sell the Roadtrek and new TT, so now we're back the the van for towing our old (paid for) 85 Wilderness TT. We're glad to be back to basics.
RE: Renting your personal travel trailer
Ask the potential renter to show you the inside of his house. Should be a clue as to how they will treat your TT. With some people, all you need to do is drive by and check out their yard, if you see several pick-ups up on blocks and a washing machine on the porch, keep on driving.
One problem I haven't seen mentioned, sometimes the TT will never come back.
RE: Illegal or not?
Never heard of this law, I'll have to check the RCW's here in Washington state. Not a problem for me, I always remove mine on the back of my 1965 Chevy van because it gets in the way when I open the back doors to get to my tool boxes and other camping stuff. Hurts when I step into it and DW gets tired of cleaning the grease off of my jeans.
Not trying to hyjack this thread but I have never greased my trailer balls....................
I've had several balls and have greased them all. Also grease WD bars where they slip into the bottom of the hitch. For some reason the grease I use tends to migrate to everything around the ball. Seems like I'll get it on my pants just walking by the hitch. Here in the pacific NW get lots of rain and therefore rust.
back to subject - haven't been able to find any law hear in Washington affecting ball removal.
RE: Illegal or not?
Never heard of this law, I'll have to check the RCW's here in Washington state. Not a problem for me, I always remove mine on the back of my 1965 Chevy van because it gets in the way when I open the back doors to get to my tool boxes and other camping stuff. Hurts when I step into it and DW gets tired of cleaning the grease off of my jeans.
RE: Renting your personal travel trailer
A friend, who is a TT service man and TT mechanic, buys good shape older TT's, fixes 'em up and rents them out with a damage deposit. I think he has a dozen or so. Since he knows how to fix them, it works for him. As for me, I let my very trustworthy sons borrow my RV's anytime. Wouldn't rent it out to anyone else though.
RE: Help with remodeling please
I guess I did make it sound like a major project, but I did say that some TT maufacturers leave some bunks just "hanging there." My experience with the Rainier shows that some bunks are more than a simple frame and plywood. I also recently extended an upper folding bunk in our "new" 85 Wilderness, that was also a major project. Colliehauler is probably more right than I am.
RE: Help with remodeling please
Forgot to mention a tool that really helps, a multi-tool with several types of blades from metal cutting to wood (got mine a Sears). It allows you to "plunge" the saw blade straight into the wood, can't do that with sabre or circular saws. The metal cutting blade will cut thru screws and staples and you can get it into real narrow spaces (1/8"). Almost mandatory for those screws installed from the outside.
RE: Where to put the level?
I just use a 2' carpenters level on the floor inside the door close enough ..............
That's the thing - my short 10" level reads different in different places on the floor. Don't want to buy a long level that I won't need much, so I put this 10" level on a 3ft aluminum angle, and it still reads different in different locations. Quality of these <20K boxes is poor, a few things broke or didn't work from the day one, and the accuracy is not there either.
Funny though, have just read a review from a guy who bought $15 torpedo level FatMax by Stanley (clone of $70 German Stabil). 10 out of 12 levels in store were out of alignment.
This is why I eyeball it, I know my eyes are level.
RE: BIG BUCKS SPENT STILL NO HEAT!!
Oops, just found out Wholesale has changed their name to Western Travel Sales. Same people same phones. I was there today and told them you might call (didn't give them your name though)
RE: brakes and bearings
the only way to tell if the bearings have enuff grease and if the brakes are ok is to remove the brake drum. That's the first thing I look at when buying any TT, new or used. Manufacturers have been known to forget to grease bearings and may not have carefully adjusted the brakes, the most important component of your TT. It won't last long if you can't stop it.
My most recent TT is an 85 Wilderness. when I removed the brake drums the grease was there but real brown and thick, kinda looked like it was the original grease. Several of the brake wires were broken, but the shoes and magnets were ok. Just regreased it, rewired it and adjusted the brakes, tows and stops great.
RE: Towing with a conversion van?
yes, I've towed with an 05 Roadtrek motorhome. Even though it weighed around 8000 lbs itself, it had to capacity to tow a 4000 lb TT. The Roadtrek was based on a 3/4 ton Chevy Express van with the 6.0 engine. That engine is very powerful and we have no trouble towing. Since the van weighed more than the TT, it towed very smooth and easy. Towing capacity should be listed somewhere on the van or in the owner's manual, so just follow those figures and you'll be fine. A nice feature towing with a van is that it is tall so it helps the aerodynamics of the TT by directing the air flow up and over the TT front end.
I've always towed with a van, right now we're back to our original 1965 Chevy Van. Had to sell the Roadtrek due to the economy. But we're happier than ever and it's all paid for.
RE: Help with remodeling please
Melissa, if you are handy with tools (and have lots of them) and have the ability to look at something and understand how it was put together, you could do it. If not, I'd find a handy friend to help.
I've remodeled many a TT to make it into a unit that suits my needs better. the last bunk I took out was on our 06 Rainier. It was above the double bed and was mounted so low we had trouble getting in and out of bed.
So, gather tools like hammer, crow bar, screwdrivers, chisels, heavy duty wire cutters, etc. Then start at the front and hammer or pry the front board off, and just keep going. It will be a mess so cover the floor so you won't scrape it with staples or nails as the components come off and drop down. I used a piece of plywood so when I dropped a board with staples in it they wouldn't gouge into the floor covering.
Figure that you will probably damage the walls some, so have a plan to cover the holes later, I use panelling. You can find wood grain type or even white board. Although maybe you can cover the damaged areas with your shelves.
Some TT's are built better than others so the bunks can just be sorta hanging there or are meant to be permanent, like our Rainier. Manufacturers use nails, screws and long "u" shaped staples to secure boards together. Seems like they use way too many so it's hard to get the boards apart and forever to get all the staples out (I try to save as much lumber as I can for later use). The boards mounted to the wall are either screwed to the studs and/or glued. A lot of the screws are put in at strange angles and can be hard to get out. Some are screwed together before the walls are assembled so you can't even get to the screw head, thus the need for big crow bars or nail cutters. You gotta be sure you pry against a stud as the paneling is real thin.
Look for screw heads behind wood fillers along the outside of the boards. They'll be countersunk and covered for appearance sake.
Since you will have no idea how the bunks were built and secured to the wall, you just have to remove parts piece by piece, and each one presents a different challenge. For semi-handy mans like me, I enjoy the challenge and getting to figure out things as I go.
Good luck, there is no other way to do it than just tearing into to it, there are no manuals supplied by the manufacturer telling you how to disassemble the trailer, just ones how to maintain it.
RE: A leaking slide - on our new TT.
Holly, since leaks in TT's are inevitable, don't worry yourself sick about it. It happens to all of 'em. Just start looking up and down and all around near the leak and You'll probably find it. Sometimes the seals around the slide get folded over and of course will leak. Maybe the water is coming in from underneath when driving thru the rain. The hose thing usually works. Since you've caught it early, long term damage won't be a problem. I recently spent a couple of months repairing long standing water damamge in a pristine 85 Wilderness we thought was perfect. So, I know how and why TT's leak. New TT's, middle age ones and old ones have leaked, will leak or are leaking now. All TT's should be inspected, recaulked or sealed once a year. Oh, and never use silicone for caulking, it traps water and peals off. Use Pro-flex
RE: BIG BUCKS SPENT STILL NO HEAT!!
Hey Lincoln, I'm here in Bellingham as you are (Blaine, actually). I suggest you call Wholesale Travel Sales in Lynden, they have fantasiic TT mechanics. Can't remember his name but they have a great service guy that will come out to your home and can probably diagnose it in a few minutes and fix it easily. The in house guy, Brent, is the best repairman I've ever worked with. Been taking my rigs to him since 1988. I think the minimum charge for a house call is $50, believe me it's worth it.
RE: Where to put the level?
As Twomed and 2012Coleman commented, I just eyeball it, then open the bathroom door to see if it stays in one place. I also look at the wand winders hanging down from the blinds to see if they are hanging straight. As many have said, you get different readings of level depending on where you put the level. This method developed over the past 25 years.
RE: all 7's
could be, when I just posted it new topics changed to 77,777
(I know I need help)
In order to make this TT related, where can I get an upper drip rail for my 85 Wilderness? The strip of metal covering the edge of the roof where it transitions to the siding is essentially flat so I get black streaks all along the side, even though I keep the roof washed. Would it be bad to build up a ridge of caulking along the roof edge to force water to drain off of the front and rear of the TT?
