Maybe it's just me, but I doubt that little 12 volt compressor will work very well to winterize. It won't have a high enough volume of air to really blow anything out..But maybe somebody else has a different opinion???
B.O.Yea, I beg to differ, I have one of those 12volt compressors and blew out my water lines with it. My TT is a 26ft box which is a little bit larger than the op's class c 24ft (according to his signature) and it did the job for me. Now normally I don't use the 12 volt,I do have a 100psi 3gallon compressor that I use, but the wife wanted to go camping this past holiday weekend and it started getting real cold so I had blow my lines before it was to late. With no power available at the storage yard, I had to go with the 12volt using my truck 12 volt receptacle. Like someone stated in an earlier post you can use a bicycle pump, you just need to have the correct volume of air to push that water out.
You'll be surprised by how much water blowing the lines dosn't get out. Just pump some pink stuff through and see how much more water comes. You'll be surprised. I've blown my waterlines out for ten years now, and use the pink stuff for traps only. Have never had any water leaks. Anybody that does, isn't taking the time to do it right. I go around and check all my faucets with the lines pressurized to make sure all the water is out, including the toilet. Mind you I'm talking about city water inlet not water holding tanks or water pump as we don't use them. Then I open low point drains, and usually only get about a cup of water out at the most. Takes about 20 minutes to do, and one gallon of pink stuff. Not saying my way is the best method, just trying to point this out to all the naysayers. What ever works best for you is what you should do. Opinions will vary including mine. And the pressure I use is about 50psi.
Got to chime in here about some of these responses. I did the exact same thing that you did last year. I tried every trick including the extractor tool. Nothing would get that broken plug that was now still in the threads out. Spent a lot of time using every trick that someone suggested, and most were mentioned more than once, and they were good suggestions. However one person suggested something that nobody else did, and it worked. Take a soldering iron and after it heats up cut four lines, one on top, one on the bottom, and both sides and immediately after making your cuts, take a pair of needle nose plyers, and pull on a section that you just made with soldering iron. You may have to play with it for a while, but it will work. Do not use any kind of tool that will mess up your threads. Soldering iron will not damage your threads,and you only need to melt the plastic enough to pull it out. once you get one piece out the rest will follow.
Agree with the others, that it doesn't sound like all that bad of a free site under those circumstances, but then I have no idea what a CPR SD40 at full chat, is.:h A Canadian Pacific diesel locomotion at full throttle. I would have been in heaven, love trains.
A few comments. First of all i'm pretty sure that is not the only one in the US. Second how big a battery bank do you need to run it? And 3rd, i can do that faster with my truck. If it is on grass,dirt, gravel it will not work as mentioned. Seems like just another unecessary toy to have! x2 my thoughts exactly. I don't have any problem backing in. Something like that is better designed for an RV dealer.
I hate to correct anyone on this forum BUT leaving the water lines dry after you blow them with an air compressor is not a very good practice. I am telling you from experience. I did that one winter and had to repair a lot of water lines because for one thing it doesn't get all the water out of the lines. on the other hand filling the lines with RV anti freeze, not to be confused with automobile anti freeze which is poisonous, will displace any water still in the lines and protect you down to -50 degrees. they make a valve and hose combo that goes on the intake of the water pump that allows you to fill the water lines with anti freeze. another thing that is well worth the expense is a by pass set up behind the water heater tank. this bypasses the tank so you don't have to use six gallons of anti freeze in the hot side of the lines.You did something wrong, cause I blow my water lines out every year, for the past ten years, and have not had any problems. Temps here haven't gotten below zero in a few years, but that doesn't mean water won't freeze. We've been below freezing for months at a time, yet every spring when I hook up water, there are no runs, no drips, no leaks. That is because I make sure there is nothing but air left, and what water is left is not enough to do damage. Only use pink stuff for traps.
I really do enjoy most of westernrvparkowner posts. This is not one of them. A business owner that doesn't want customers at any time, is maybe in the wrong business. If you don't want to close earlier, then suck it up and serve your customers. You said they checked in to your campground, right? Did they pay in advance for their stay? Does their money go into your company account? If they want a glass of ice water, give it to them with a smile. When they leave, then go home. If you can't do that, you are in the wrong business. Where would you be without customers.
Why don't you tell us the parks you own? So we can be sure NOT to bother you, with our business.
Maybe you're just having a bad day. I hope things get better for you. For your benefit, I hope the mod's blow this thread away. You are better than this. It's remarks like this that show how ignorant and disrespectful some people can be. If I need to go to the store because I forgot something and I know they are closing in 15 minutes or less, then I guess I'll have to wait till the next day. No need to cop an attitude and throw remarks around like I'll just take my business elsewhere. I treat people like I would like to be treated, with respect, but it sure seems to be on a steady decline.
I did something a little different.I drilled a hole in the corner of the black plastic sleeve that the blade of the valve slides into when open. Installed a grease zerk fitting. Now at the beginning of every season I pump some auto grease in there and have never had another issue.Smooth and easy.I used to have these valves "freeze" up on me so bad that I would break handles and bust valves so I had to replace the whole assembly.I have installed these about 5 years ago,still working great. Mine sticks sometimes to. Went to the RV dealer/store, they wanted 72.00 for the replacement including the cable. My first thought was you got to be kidding. No way I'm paying that. Thought about just replacing it with a standard pull handle, although I would have to reach in kind of far to pull it open. I may just give your method a try. You may have come up with the perfect solution to a messy problem. ;)
Exact same summer usage. Exact same winter storage spot. My current trailer with a large slide has mice. My previous trailer with NO slide had NO mice.... Notice the pattern? This is true. Two years ago a mouse got in our TT, wife is deathly afraid of them, so much so that when while we were camping one showed up one night on our kitchen counter. Well that was it, we had to go. Bought some traps at the local K Mart then drove 40 miles to home, without the trailer. Went back the next morning and had one dead mouse. The following weekend I go underneath the camper and could not find anywhere that a mouse could get in. So now I have to always keep two mouse traps baited and ready to go, that's mandatory or I camp alone. The next summer were camping again with the slideout open, and I just happen to be outside and looked down at the bottom of the slideout seal and notice part of it had been chewed away. BINGO!! so that's how he got in. So yes they can get in thru closed slideouts. Now I take steel wool and stuff it the corners, then pick it up from the outside when the slide is open.