RE: Permanent Rope Lights on HTT
We hang clear rope light around the perimeter of our awning. It provides ample lighting to see by without being too bright. Since ours is 12v rope light, we can use it during dry camping. It’s available on Ebay.
RE: Toilet paper
Toilet paper science fair experiment << This be a clicky.
The scientific tests results had concluded favorable results using Angel Soft brand of toilet tissue. Based on the test results, we switched from Scott single ply (not the wife’s favorite) to Angel soft. She finds it has much more softness and I find no visual signs of it, nor any clumping when dumping using the clear flush king adaptor.
RE: KZ21 Electrical problem
>> This post would likely get much more responses over on the Tech Issues forum. <<
Make sure I got this right, some stuff works on DC/Battery power, but some stuff doesn’t? All DC stuff works fine when plugged into AC? What your saying baffles me too.
When plugged into AC, the charger/converter supplies power to the DC circuit panel with circuit protection from 2, 30 amp fuses on the DC side.
When on DC/Battery power, power is supplied from the battery to the circuit panel with circuit protection from a 40 or 50 amp fuse and/or a DC circuit breaker (usually located near the battery or underneath along the frame towards the front).
In either case (AC or DC/battery operation), I’d think it should be an “all working” or “nothing working” situation (not some stuff working and some stuff not working).
The stuff that doesn’t work while on DC/Battery power is much more than what would be on just a single circuit, so the problem effects stuff on multiple circuits.
A few things to check…
- For the stuff that drops out while on DC/battery power, use a multi-meter and find out what side of circuit is lost (meaning the Hot/+ side, or Negative/- side).
- For the stuff that drops out while on DC/battery, identify what circuits they are on and verify if all, or just some of items on that circuit are affected (You might have to be plugged into AC in order to help find them all).
RE: Lots of new ROO owners - Bathroom door on 10' models?
This new radius bathroom door showed up on the ’09 Roo brochure, but this is the first time I’ve seen a unit that actually got one built with one.
I wouldn’t mind a little more “knee” room in our ’08 23ss bathroom, but this isn’t the way I’d want to get that extra space. I think the “ventilation” spaces above and below the new radius door looks kinda goofy. If they wanted to make the bathroom bigger, maybe they could have simply extended the wall beside the slideout out to the wall in the hallway and then just hang a normal door on it.
http://i1.imagesrv.com/1/228/i/516964/i_228_516964_1716135.JPG width=640
Note: Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum.
RE: No "Living Room Lights" .... help ! ! !
…as it turns out the piece of trim in the corner of the front part of the slide (where I put my window) ...... isn't just a piece of trim - it covers (and 'protects') the wires for the reading lights ! ! ! This is what I didn't realize ! ! ! ! :o Anyway, the screws that attach my hardware for my mini blind for the new window, pierced the wires and shorted the + and - causing the fuse to blow. Mark.
I looked at that piece of trim on our Roo. Am I also a moron if the two screws that hold our curtain valance are located into the same area, but haven’t (yet) pierced the wiring? I had no idea that trim piece covered a hidden passage for wiring. I think I better pull the screws, make sure they’re short and grind off the sharp point on them.
Guess I should be thankful to you… when/if our lights go out, I’ll know right where to look!!!
Weighed Your Roo Lately? We did…
Loaded the truck and camper and hit the scales. Threw in just about everything I could to create an absolute worst-case scenario. 50 gallons of fresh water (we have two tanks), 2 tanks of propane, beer, food, cloths, junk, more junk, 4 kayaks, full tank for gas in truck, Dutch ovens, generator, fire wood, more junk & me (wife and 2 kids did not participate in this festive event).
12,500 lbs, Truck & Camper
(Truck’s CGWR is 13,000 lbs)
6,140 lbs, Camper Only (calculated 5,724 lbs without fresh water)
(Camper’s GVWR is 6,367 lbs, Truck’s towing capacity is 7,500 lbs)
6,360 lbs, Truck Only
(Truck’s GVWR is 6,900 lbs)
With the wife and kids onboard, we could be knocking on our max rated limits for sure. Now, if I can lay off the jelly doughnuts and switch over to a low fat ice cream…
RE: No "Living Room Lights" .... help ! ! !
I don’t know much bout lecktrisaty.
But, it kinda sounds like a short to ground. There is no wiring diagram available from Forrest River, I asked for one when I bought our Roo. Thankfully the 12v wiring is color-coded though, green/white for outside vehicle lighting and red/white for the rest (now that’s a big help huh?). If your unit has 12v tank heaters, that 30 amp fuse >might< be correct (check with Chuck, I think his unit has them).
Rock077’s advice is right on track, you need to find the short by using a multi-meter. With the fuse removed from the circuit panel, identify the hot side terminal (power in). Then connect the meter to the output terminal (power out) and to ground. A short to ground will show continuity here (it normally shouldn’t). Keep the meter connected this way during your investigation, when you loose continuity you’ve found your short.
The water pump should have a separate fuse on the hot wire it connects to (near the pump). Pull the fuse and check it (probably ok?) and look at the meter for continuity. Your tank heaters might also have a separate fuse; you should probably check that one too.
There’s a good chance for a pinched, crushed or chafed wire. Check the slide out wiring that feeds the two reading lights over the sofa (ours is coiled under the sofa and feeds back into the water pump cabinet). Disconnect the tank heaters from the circuit next and check for continuity back at the meter. Keep in mind that any areas where you can’t visually see the wiring will likely mean that you’ll have to disconnect the wiring for that item from the circuit. You might remove the screws and pull the converter back to see if the wire coming off of the output side (power out) of the fuse terminal is split. If it does split (with optional tank heater, I bet it does), disconnect one wire or the other to see what side the short is on and trace onward from there. Wiring for those 4 overhead lights runs up to the ceiling behind converter and along side the fridge. Remove the first ceiling light on the circuit (probably the one closest to the dinette and fridge) and disconnect it from the circuit and look back at the meter for continuity. If you lost continuity, you’re on the right track, reconnect the light and go onto the next one. With the light fixture pulled from the ceiling, you should be able to look up and see the wiring feeding to the next light(s) for further testing.
If the short appears to be a located in a hidden section of wiring, try pulling on it gently and see if you can see the other side move. If it doesn’t have a hidden split (unlikely), you can use the bad section of wiring to pull in the new replacement wiring. Use a piece of 2 or 3 conductor, 14-gauge extension or lamp cord for the replacement wiring.
Think about any work you might have done recently and whether it could have caused this or not. When you find it, be sure to let us know what you found. Probably wrong, but I’m guessing it’s on the tank heater side.
RE: Minor MODs ijust finished:)
http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/44958/2268107910036062993S500x500Q85.jpg
This is one of our best mods, highly recommended.
This decorative, but sophisticated motion measurement device is installed on the kitchen counter using double-sided tape. It lets us know if the stabilizer jacks are cranked down sufficiently. It works pretty simple really, if her grass skirt moves too much when we’re walking around inside the camper, the stabilizer jacks aren’t set tight enough. Got it from Big Lots if I remember correctly.
RE: Torn slide out seal?
Nice folks, those guys at RVW. But I bet they didn’t tell you about the available 2nd year warranty from Forrest River ($150.00 I think?). They didn’t tell us about it, and by the time we found out about it, it was after 30 days from the sale and FR wouldn’t let us buy into it. Aftermarket warranty? Just say no, like Nancy used to say (& Chuck too). I’d say to go ahead and get the OEM 2’nd year warranty if you can; I think it’s worth it.
Slide out seal tearing? Ours has been fine, bet Chuck’s and everyone else with a Roo here is fine too. Take a look at the material it’s made out of, it’s pretty tough stuff.
RE: Water Pump Cycling too much?
Our unit did the same thing when it was new. There is an adjustment screw on the end of the pump. Turn the screw clockwise to reduce the short cycling. Adjust the pump so that it shuts off when the pressure is at 40-45 psi (rated to 45psi), if you are able to do so. See the link below, (bottom right on the first page).
http://www.shurflo.com/pdf/rv/911_trouble_shooting/new/911-352-I.pdf
RE: Cooking in TT propane oven
A little off topic, but this mod I posted over on the Hybrid forum a while back has worked out quite well for us.
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/42960/2927817730036062993S500x500Q85.jpg
The new grill we bought last year has a cool electronic igniter, but the Suburban stove/oven in our ’08 Roo has to be lit using a match or lighter? Bought a grill igniter kit to fix that, push the button and zap-zap-zap... At least the new ’09’s units now have a non-electronic igniter on the stove now.
http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/37510/2526775620036062993S500x500Q85.jpg
Setting up the igniters on the top burners was easy… check out that juicy blue spark! Push the multi-spark igniter button and 1 zap lights this burner!
http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/41696/2643498730036062993S500x500Q85.jpg
Setting up the igniter the igniter in the oven was somewhat more tedious, but oh man does it work nice. Getting down on the knees, holding the pilot knob in, and trying to light the oven pilot was pain in the err, knees.
http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/44819/2622778960036062993S500x500Q85.jpg
While installing the oven igniter, I decide to lower the oven shelf and burner assembly down a little (5/8”). Even though we use a pizza stone on the rack to help keep the underside burn factor down during baking, we still had some issues. Hopefully the slightly lower burner will help a little.
Should mention that I saw (I believe) a replacement four-ignitor module in the BBQ Grill parts isle at Lowe’s. It’s just the module with the wire leads, not a kit with ignitors. If you buy the three-ignitor kit from Wal-Mart, the four-ignitor module from Lowe’s and an extra ignitor from somewhere, you’d have all parts to do all three burners and the oven. Still can’t find a full four-ignitor kit that includes everything.
RE: Tongue Jack Broken -- Roo stuck on TV -- Now what?
Grab the bottle jack out of the side compartment of your 23ss Roo, the one you keep just in case your get a flat tire. You’ll probably find it beside the lug wrench and blocks of wood that go under the jack.
Oh yeah, sorry for your loss...
RE: Type of grease
While I can agree with leaf peeper on some issues.I disagree that the spinning of the wheel while greasing is not needed…
You wouldn’t be disagreeing with me on this. You’re right; rotating the wheel while introducing new grease is better for those having Ultralube (or similar type) spindles. The quotes taken from the Al-Co Kober manual that I posted earlier, regarding re-lubrication were meant to be questioned.
RE: Type of grease
The Al-Co Kober manual mentions that a yearly disassembly and inspection be performed, like Chuck said. It also states “There is no need to lift the trailer before greasing axles equipped with Ultralube:” and to “Pump until new grease begins to appear”.
I don’t do the “Pump until new grease begins to appear” thing, for 2 primary reasons.
1. I don’t want to risk contaminating my brake shoes. The grease entry port lives between the inner bearing and seal area. By the time I would see grease “…begin to appear”, I feel that the pressure needed to push the grease through both bearing elements and towards the outer area of the hub would compromise the ability of the seal to perform it’s function (double lipped seal included).
2. I don’t want to create more heat. Even if the seal were able to do it’s job, I don’t feel that the hub should be completely filled with grease, which would occur if I did the “Pump until new grease begins to appear” thing. A bearing housing, or hub shouldn’t be filled more than 2/3rds its capacity (max). A bearing housing that’s completely full of grease will experience higher internal temperatures than one that’s 1/2 to 2/3rds full. When the housing is completely full of grease, the grease has a more difficult time displacing itself when the components in rotation, creating more heat as a result of more work.
Even though I slowly pumped only 2 shots of grease into each hub, maybe 2 or 3 times during last year, I still ended up with some grease being pushed past the seals (double lip) when I did the bearing/hub service this year. I’m thinking of removing the grease zerks and installing threaded plugs so I won't be temped to add more grease during the season this year.
RE: Hunter Thermostat
Can you use "regular" Duracell batteries with the Hunter brand? Read some reviews on Amazon from the links in this thread that say it requires a special battery. But in the first pic, shows duracell batteries. Want one but don't want hassle of locating special batteries.
The special battery is for the remote control (if you buy that model), the thermostat itself takes 2 standard AA batteries.
RE: Hunter Thermostat
What is nice about the digital reading is it is more accurate then the standard one. Thanks for the web site. I have been looking for one locally an haven't been able to find one for me. I think it is well worth the $55 bucks.
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/12752/2237232180036062993S500x500Q85.jpg
$27 with free shipping from Amazon.com . Although we like ours, it does have a few limitations. It does require an oddball battery (like the one for a garage door opener). Also, you can only bump the temperature up or down 2 degrees at a time from the current room temperature.
We tend to dry camp a lot and usually set the thermostat at the lowest setting overnight during cold weather. The mornings can be a bit chilly, but I just reach over from the bed and grab the remote (kept on the bedside cabinet with Velcro) and click the “up” button a few times and the heat comes on. If desired, you could the take the remote inside the truck and warm up the camper a bit before you reach the campground.
RE: slideout locks
Our Rockwood came with a pair of them.
One side of each lock contacts the inside wall of the camper just fine, but the other side that makes contact with the uneven (stepped) seal surface on the slide makes the lock want to ride up on the seal surface. Whenever we would get to our destination, both the locks ended up sliding up on the seal and would no longer be tight. If the slide wanted to open, or if I pushed the button to open it, they’d just ride up and over the seal on the slide. Maybe a nice idea I suppose, but they are completely useless in performing the function they were intended for.
RE: Questions about Roo 19
Popup is gone and the search for the "right" hybrid has begun.
Have a few questions relating to a Roo 19
1. Saw the black water tank and the grey water tank. Does the bath sink and shower drain into the black? Couldn't see any way they were connected to the grey. Is that common? Would make it impossible to transfer grey to a portable tank to dump without "fouling" the blue tank?
2. Does a Dometic Brisk Air shot air down (like a Carrier) or just out each end?
3. Noticed the faucets were plastic, forgot to see if the sink was plastic or metal.
4. We measured everything but the exterior width. Is it 8' plus a few inches for the awning? (by the way the beds, sofa, and dinette varied a few inches from the brochure as has often been stated here!)
That's it for right now!
Thanks in advance,
Steve
1. Black water tank is for Le-Toilet only. All gray water (bathroom & kitchen sinks and shower) goes in the gray water tank.
2. The 19 Roo doesn’t have “ducted air”. I believe the discharge blows fore and aft, don’t know if it’s got the air down feature that the ducted air units get.
3. Yep, plastic faucet (kinda crummy, but a standard kitchen faucet will fit there fine). Sink is plastic too (ours seems okay).
4. Right, the body is 8’ wide; add more for awning on the curb side and tiny bit more for clearance lights on the roadside. You got special spot that’s that tight to park it in?
Also note that the “real dry weight” with added options is listed on the sticker located on the inside door, under the sink.
