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 > Your search for posts made by 'Likes to tow' found 58 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Why do Class C's always leak in the front upper bunk area?

Someone told me a few years ago: "Imagine if your stick house was subject to an earthquake for 4 or 5 hours a day, it would start to leak and fall apart like a RV does". I think a lot of time it is build quality but a lot is also we just don't take into account how much stress we are putting on these units and how much we need to do to keep them in good shape. A very good point!! You must constantly be vigilant about caulking and sealing any RV, even a Class A. They flex, twist and vibrate as you travel. This breaks the seal and allows water intrusion on all seams
Likes to tow 03/25/17 05:04am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Why do Class C's always leak in the front upper bunk area?

My friend found an unbelievable deal on a used 2011 with only 3800 miles on the clock and wanted me to go look at it with him. It was in unbelievable condition for a 2011!! It had been stored under a roof mostly out of sunlight and rain. I could find nothing anywhere from top to bottom that looked questionable until I looked under the mattress in the over the cab bed. There were water stains on each end of the mattress on the bottom side. Close examination on the outside revealed water oozing out from the edge trim molding when you pushed on it. A classic example of lack of proper maintenance sealing. The owner was really shaken up by our findings and had no idea Class C's are famous for this. Now he was faced with a huge repair bill before he could sell it unless some poor unsuspecting buyer did not look under the mattress. Yes it was!! My friend was ready to make a deposit but after we raised the cushions and saw the stains we made a closer inspection of the outside. The caulk had open cracks in it along the aluminum trim strips and there was mold on the underside along some seam caulking. I'm afraid some unsuspecting buyer is going to get burnt!! Was this by chance the 21qb that was recently on ebay in Ohio? We had thoughts of going to see it but changed our mind due to a few issues regarding it.
Likes to tow 03/25/17 04:57am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Why do Class C's always leak in the front upper bunk area?

While it is true they often leak, a lot of it stems from poor owner maintenance or poor initial build quality. I check my seals twice a year and reseal around the marker lights / front window every 2 or 3 years. My 1994 Minnie has never (knock on wood) leaked and I rarely cover it (We tend to use it year-round). Just wash it, keep it clean, and reseal when needed. Also important is using the proper sealant. On mine I need to use 311 sealant, it is what they used from the factory. Dicor will not stick to this silicone based sealant. Some people use plain silicone, or just an incompatible sealant with what is currently on their RV. Then they forget about it and it leaks... You are right, the type of sealant is critical. All RV's will leak sooner or later. I'm vigilant about keeping my 5th wheel sealed. I've also found that 3M 5200 Marine caulk is very very good. It adheres to fiberglass and stays rather soft to allow flexing. Good below waterline on boats so you know it's good. They make two different types with one being a "quick setting" formula. I usually use the slow setting formula. Silicone is worthless in some applications although it stays sealed on glass!!! I've sealed leaks on auto glass, boat windshields and camper windows with it. It remains water tight. But some surfaces it will not stick....like the outside wall on an RV
Likes to tow 03/23/17 08:44am Class C Motorhomes
Why do Class C's always leak in the front upper bunk area?

Came close to buying a new Class C late last year but instead purchased another 5th wheel. Not so much because of their tendency to leak in the front overcab area but there was some other things that made us stick to another 5th wheel. Maybe sometime in future we will get a small c. My friend found an unbelievable deal on a used 2011 with only 3800 miles on the clock and wanted me to go look at it with him. It was in unbelievable condition for a 2011!! It had been stored under a roof mostly out of sunlight and rain. I could find nothing anywhere from top to bottom that looked questionable until I looked under the mattress in the over the cab bed. There were water stains on each end of the mattress on the bottom side. Close examination on the outside revealed water oozing out from the edge trim molding when you pushed on it. A classic example of lack of proper maintenance sealing. The owner was really shaken up by our findings and had no idea Class C's are famous for this. Now he was faced with a huge repair bill before he could sell it unless some poor unsuspecting buyer did not look under the mattress. I've notice a major change in some higher end models where the front cap is all solid fiberglass and actually wraps around the side a few inches. Looks like this would be much better than just having a piece of molding on the edges. At any rate, if you are in the market for a used C I suggest you pull the cab over mattress and check for stains!!
Likes to tow 03/23/17 06:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Bad electrical connection between trailer and truck

The type connector I have looks like this....scale it up so you can see the dual blades. Mine continuously open up and when I bend them back to look like this picture they open up again after a time or two of hooking up my trailer. The metal is not very springy and stays open... https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-7W6.html
Likes to tow 03/19/17 03:54pm Fifth-Wheels
Bad electrical connection between trailer and truck

I have a 2017 5th wheel and the cord from the trailer to the truck continuously gets loose connections every time I plug it back in. I have to take a small flat blade screw driver and bend the female blades on the trailer side of the connection back closer together for it to make contact. Is there not a better type of connection?? I've never had it happen after the connection is made, the brakes always work and I would become aware of this immediately if the connection opened up. But now I'm wondering about the brake and parking lights. How would I know the brake light is not working.....dangerous situation. There must be a better quality electrical connection available!!
Likes to tow 03/17/17 07:26am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

I prefer to hand pack them myself , that way I get a good look at the brakes, bearings, races and all the other components. Plus it's just plain old too easy to blow out the seals pumping that much grease in there. After actually pulling my hub off, inspecting, adjusting the bearings and pumping in the grease I have to say I completely disagree! I felt virtually no resistance difference while pumping the handle when the cavity started to fill. http://i.imgur.com/8SonF3cl.jpg Do it whichever way you want too, it's your trailer, but on my trailers EZ lubes aren't a maintenance replacement for disassembling & inspection of bearings, races, spindles, brakes, magnets and other hub components. If that cavity is totally full of grease, what happens when the brakes heat up the drum/hub and the grease expands. Where does the grease go? The picture shown appears to be from an axle without brakes! On an axle like this Easy Lube is the only way to go! Just pump till your hearts content and let the grease ooze onto the wheel rim. If you have brakes on a trailer then the cleanliness of those brake shoes and magnet is of upmost importance.
Likes to tow 03/09/17 06:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Truck bed mat with 5th wheel hitch

Cut around my rails like everyone else. Works great. Plus I have a spray in liner too. This extra heavy duty rubber mat allows me to haul stuff without worry that I am hurting the expensive spray in liner. Hauled some concrete block last week to a job site......no problem.
Likes to tow 03/07/17 06:39am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

First of all, Dexter's web site recommends a few brands of grease and Pennzoil 707L is on that list and Lippert's recommended list also. It's red and has a high drop point (holds up to heat). Also some web sites do not recommend combining two different greases. They recommend washing all the old grease out and then hand packing. There are a substantial number of articles and forums you can read on the Easy Lube Hubs. I personally think they are great for a boat trailer but the possibility of putting too much grease in the bearing cavity is very great! My previous 5th wheel was pre owned when I got it and the brakes simply did not even begin to work. Pulling the manual lever on the brake controller did nothing. I took the brake drums off and what I saw was unbelievable. The brake shoes and magnets were totally covered in grease!!!!!!!! I called the previous owner and ask him about it. He said "why sure, we always put grease in the zerk each time we prepared for a trip." I did not replace the brakes but washed everything down in gasoline and lacquer thinner. I replaced the seals and hand packed the bearings. Brakes worked great after that.......for a while. Then I noticed little braking ability when using the manual lever. I removed all four wheels again and apparently grease had oozed out of the brake linings and contaminated the drum surface. So I cleaned them all our again. Brakes good for about a year then same thing....more grease had oozed out of the linings. I put up with this for a few years, never replacing the brake shoes and finally when I traded it in last year for a new 5th wheel with new brakes I was totally shocked at the braking power I had. Never had I been able to stop like this!!! Bottom line....don't use the easy lube zerk fitting. Hand pack your bearings and use quality grease at least every other year depending on how many miles you travel. If your shoes are already contaminated then REPLACE THEM now.
Likes to tow 03/07/17 06:31am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Roads I love

Bear tooth highway
Likes to tow 03/03/17 07:07am Roads and Routes
Route 89 in Utah

How's route 89 from Interstate 70 south to Orderville, Utah?? Are there any steep grades to be concerned about while pulling a 5th wheel?? We want to set up a base camp and see the national parks in the area. Any recommendations??
Likes to tow 03/01/17 04:57am Roads and Routes
RE: Tripod on 5th wheel

I bought one and notice practically no improvement. However it does keep kids from running under the kingpin and getting grease on their heads.
Likes to tow 03/01/17 04:04am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Blue Ridge Parkway...first two weeks of April

Buck Creek near Marion NC is a great easy in easy out campground with access to the parkway close by. You are also in driving range of many great spots. Mount Mitchell which is the highest elevation east of the Mississippi River would be a "must do." Last time we were there we ate lunch in the cafe. Not sure about their hours or dates of operation. Be watchful of the weather. If it's overcast or especially if foggy just forget trying to drive the parkway! We have driven the entire length from Front Royal Va to Cherokee NC and it is worth the effort to see. Every summer we now camp somewhere nearby and drive a section for a while. It is my favorite drive in the East!!
Likes to tow 02/27/17 06:00am Roads and Routes
RE: Blue Ridge Parkway...first two weeks of April

Many roads giving you access to the Parkway are very steep and some are very curvy. Choose your route carefully. Your rig is not small but you can still make the trip. Meadows of Dan is a great campground just off the Parkway at the same elevation. Other campgrounds near the parkway require a steep decline. Buck Creek near Marion NC is one of our favorites but we always make it a base camp and drive up onto the Parkway from camp without our 5th wheel. The parkway speed is also rather slow, posted limits of no more than 45 MPH. It takes a while to drive it. This is a beautiful drive!!!
Likes to tow 02/25/17 07:07pm Roads and Routes
RE: possible danger with wires ran inside axle to other side

You do realize that the tube is just a tube, and only the drum rotates? Has nothing to do with that, take 8 feet of wire and try and use it like a jump rope. This is what happens going down the road. That wire bounces around inside the tube. While this is true I don't lend much to this explanation on this problem. It looks more like chafing during the install to me. I have seen many many trailers that have never had this issue and that goes for the 3 campers and multiple utility trailers I have owned. Chris The thin rubber grommet entering and exiting the axle tube will also wear with all the bouncing of the wire inside. Keep this in mind also. Since we do not know the condition of smoothness inside the axle I'm not comfortable with my wires in there bouncing. My friend had his trip to Yellowstone nearly ruined by this intermittant problem. He thought it was his brake controller and stopped by two different Ford dealers only to be told it was functioning properly. Had it not been for the nice fellow at the campground who suggested to remove the wire inside the axle they would have turned around at the end of the second day and returned home!! This video I have posted at the beginning of this thread and the opinions of those who have contributed look pretty darned conclusive that the wire inside bouncing could put you along side the road somewhere in the mountains. This would especially be true on trailers with lots of miles on them.
Likes to tow 02/12/17 07:14am Fifth-Wheels
RE: What do you recommend?

I tried some 3M 5200 marine caulk and it seems to work very well. They make a quick dry 5200 also. The regular 5200 takes a long time to set up. The product is for the marine environment and stays flexible. Also a recommendation about using masking tape along the joints. This keeps the caulk confined to a narrow area and an neater job. After you get done you just pull off the tape. I've seen some folks caulk and use their finger to smooth it out. This leaves a very wide unprofessional looking job. Use masking tape!
Likes to tow 02/12/17 07:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: possible danger with wires ran inside axle to other side

That wire is probably safer than it would be outside the axle. I'm not going to run out and rewire my brakes any time soon. And it is about as likely that they scraped that wire pulling it through at the factory, as having worn through. Good to know that it can happen, although fairly obvious that if you have a short, it could be inside the axle tube. As the wires bounce around inside the axle the intermittent short is nearly impossible to trace. This drives the brake controller crazy and gives false errors. If there is one thing I can do while at my residence to prevent problems on the road I will do it.
Likes to tow 02/11/17 05:42am Fifth-Wheels
possible danger with wires ran inside axle to other side

This happened to a friend a few years ago and was very hard to find. It was very intermittent and without the suggestion of some experienced camper at a campground he may never have found the problem. Check out this video. I'm pulling mine out of the axle today on the new 5th wheel I just purchased. You can run small plastic conduit or water pipe to the other side rather than use them as manufactured....inside the axle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21QFaEw3NCE
Likes to tow 02/10/17 07:17am Fifth-Wheels
RE: How to measure length of fifth wheel unit

It's a marketing tool. People will more likely buy the shorter unit if the floor plan suits their needs. One manufacturer started this and all rest followed soon thereafter. Oh look, all this room and closet space and it's under 30' when in reality it's over 32'. Our first 5th wheel was a 28RL and it was exactly 28 feet from the bumper to the king pin. Of course this was many years ago.
Likes to tow 02/05/17 05:54am Fifth-Wheels
Interstate 70 through Denver

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 29176873
Likes to tow 02/03/17 02:28pm Fifth-Wheels
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