There's a lot of potential problems with the recall work and pricing...check around on this site and you'll see many posts outlining this.
In many cases, dealers (yeah, Workhorse certified dealers) told folks that while Workhorse covers the cost of the calipers, they'll likely also need new rotors and pads, which will be an extra $2400. That's usually complete hooey.
To change the calipers, they have to take the brake system apart, which is covered by Workhorse. Fresh pads were about $200 for a complete set. They already have to take the old pads out to do the work, so there should be NO additional labor charge, even if the pads need replacing. Same for the rotors...once the wheels are off, and the calipers are removed, that's about 90% of the work to get the rotors off, and rotors are cheap, IF they even need to be replaced at all.
First place I called when I had mine done told me that there would likely be up to $2,000 not covered by Workhorse. I kept dialing ;)
Ended up having recall done, got fresh pads on the front which Workhorse also agreed to pay for. Some of these shops are just trying to completely rip off unsuspecting and/or uneducated consumers. As soon as I questioned the woman who told me it would likely be an extra $2,000, she started stuttering and sputtering...said I'd have to talk to the service manager, who wasn't in, but I needed to book immediately because they were very booked up, dangerous for my family, etc etc. Basically a shyster...and she had a well-developed speech.
Definitely have it done by Workhorse, and there are tons of Workhorse shops out there. Don't forget, workhorse chassis were used for a very wide range of applications, and was a very popular truck chassis, so don't limit your search to RV dealers.
As mentioned before, go to the Workhorse site, register, and you can search for shops in your area.
And as stated above, when you register, the site will tell you if the work has already been done, and all you need is a bleed...and NOT of the "wallet" type ;)
I think you have the same slide system we have in our Pace Arrow (Fleetwood). It's a PowerGear system. My docs say that no lubrication is required or needed.
That being said, I used some spray Silicon on mine.
I also never retract my slide without being plugged in or having the genset running. It will come in without those conditions, but it is slower.
You have bad connections along the "daisy chain" and it is probably the neutral, but that doesn't matter. RVs are all wired with solid NM cable and that is only S-Brain stupid (IMNSHO). Boats have been wired in stranded NM for decades because of the vibration. Most power boats run about 50 hours a year and they still have trouble with power wiring loosening up in the terminals.
Shut down the power and take a day and check every single connection in the system. That means every screw on every receptacle (outlet) and every wire nut and every terminal screw or buss in the main box. If you can't get a screw to tighten even a little, back it out an half a turn and run it back down.
This will be an amazing PITA, but if you do them all and don't skip any - even the one you never use in the underneath - then the problem will probably disappear.
Oh, if you find any receptacles wired as push-in (insertion), remove the conductor, strip more if needed and clamp it under a screw. Push-in just doesn't last in RVs that are actually used over the road.
I learned this lesson the hard way. Being new to RV's I've been learning as I go along. 2yrs ago we were dry camping in very hot weather down in Maryland. All of a sudden, smell of smoke in the coach, and lost all A/C. Shut gen down, hit batt disconnects, isolated smell to A/C breaker panel in bathroom. Took the cover off and the nuetral connections had become loose and eventually burned through whatever connection was left. I got running again by stripping the charred insulation back and cleaning up the neutral bar and re-attaching, but that whole scenario could have ended much differently if it had started a fire.
Mileage posts always puzzle me :)
1,000 gals at 4.50 and 7.5mpg is 7500 miles for $4500.
and at 8.5 is 8500 miles, so an extra 1,000 miles.
Not many of us get to drive our rigs that far in a year, so more likely 2yrs.
So other than fulltimers, the cost difference over 2 yrs is a couple of hundred dollars.
Your tires will cost more, your camping spaces will cost more, your insurance will cost more, and your tow setup will cost more.
Mileage isn't the issue for most folks.
I put Sumi's on our coach. They were $300/ea, including Equal balancing. I bought them at a local truck center that's not a chain, it's family owned, and I've been very pleased with them.
Shop around...I bet you can find better pricing than what you've been quoted.
Have you flushed brake fluid like they told you to do on the recall? I had my recall done in 9-09 and have not had any problems since. The moisture buildup in the fluid will cause corrosion in the metal parts of the brakes. I have flushed my fluid 2 times since the recall. 3 weeks ago they said the fluid looked very clear yet but did use 1.5 L to flush the entire system. The previous one I did with my son on the driveway.
I'm not clear on exactly what metal parts suffer corrosion due to water in the brake fluid? It will certainly reduce braking, but what parts does it come in contact with that would corrode?
I think they may help on a P30 chassis, but were pretty much useless on WH.
They don't make any contact up front due to ride height of existing suspension, so never really come into play.
I bought two sets, one for me, one for a friend. He installed his before I got around to mine, and based on what we saw/experienced, mine are still in a box in the garage. Wish I'd saved the money and gone straight to new shocks.
p.s. They're available ;)
It's a heat sink for the Grendel Smith bearing isolator. Sometimes if the yelson valve is open to quickly it causes the linerator to seize up. The bearing isolator prevents this failure from progressing to the herfold governor, a potentially catastrophic condition.
If you can't find an exact replacement it can be replaced by a #2 paper clip bent is the shape of a "W", but only temporarily.
Ok...that's just funny :) :) :)
Mine is an electric driven slide, 22' long on the driver's side.
It's made by PowerGear, the least customer friendly company I've encountered.
I found the manual, and there's a "manual retraction adapter" that slide over the end of the motor shafts that allows you to attach a 1/2" ratchet to the shaft and crank the slide in that way.
There are 3 motors, and each has the brake lever (engage/disengage) on the back of the motor, so you have to disengage each motor, and then move motor to motor slowly cranking the slide in.
My rig did NOT come with the adapter, but I had a friend make on out of hardened steel stock, made three of them, so I can leave them pinned on.
Really stupid, stupid design. Why not just square the end of the shaft so a socket will fit on? THAT would make the system much more serviceable.
As far as I can tell, you just haven't gotten used to driving something this size.
First rule is just slow down. I don't care how many cars are behind you, slow down. Take it easy, remember to relax your shoulders and breath every now and then, and it will all become second nature to you. it takes a while on back roads to realize that you're fine...you can drive them, just lookout for low bridges ;)
And yeah, I'd swap my Pace for the Monaco any day, straight up ;)
Our Pace is a 2005. Great chassis, however, your question is very much like "2005 Ford or Chevy...which is better?"
Very few have owned both, and so we all have somewhat limited experience in that regard.
My 2005 had to have the break recall down. Not sure what you mean by "auto parking brake issue". There was an issue with the Bosch calipers...had nothing to do with parking brake. The calipers would not release, issue was fixed for free by Navistar.
As mentioned above...pull the fuse. There are "inline switches" available online that allow you to pull the fuse and replace it with a circuit that has a switch and an inline fuse. You can mount the switch anywhere under the dash. When you want to tow, either pull your existing fuse, or upgrade to the switch and just flip the switch. That kills power to your dash/ignition/etc, but will leave your clock and radio alone.
Ours wasn't "new"...just new to us ;), but I took delivery in Az on a Tues afternoon, left AZ at about 4pm headed back to Mass. Trip was about 2200mi, and was a good shakedown. I discovered the rig needed a 4 wheel alignment and a right rear axle seal.
I think if you do a good delivery inspection so that you know the basics are covered, you'll be fine, understanding that as you said, there'll likely be some minor tweaks, some may be more pressing than others.
Good luck, safe travels.
The whole notion that if you burn more gas than someone else, that makes you some sort of bad/evil person is completely unfounded and ridiculous.
That "holier than thou" attitude gets me twisted every time. No way they can ever justify it with facts, it's just a notion that some people tend to embrace and thrive on.
/off soap box
We have not taken our beloved boxers camping...yet. Up until now, we've had live-in pet sitters that always take care of our dogs and cats when we travel...but that situation is changing.
I think every campground we've stayed at has specified that pets are not to be left alone in the RV.
Are there campgrounds out there that don't have this rule?
Let's start out with, what kind of motor home do you have? What kind of and, how many house batteries and, engine do you have? You see, if your rig is a diesel, about 99.9% of them have inverters, NOT CONVERTERS, and, many of them are Inverter/Chargers so, you could be having an issue with that system. Now, if your coach is a gas unit, about 99.9% of them, come with Converters, not Inverters!
So, we need more info on your system before we can give an accurate assessment of a possible solution to your issues.
P.S. On edit, I didn't know the question has already been asked, sorry.
In either case, you have a problem with your charging circuit, and whether it's an inverter or a converter, it needs to be replaced.
That's probably what cooked your first set of batteries.
I never understand the point of posts like this.
No one else was there, no one else witnessed what happened or didn't happen, so how can the OP expect anyone to chime in with anything of value here?
Don't like what they did? Don't feel you were responsible?...take it up with them, and take your business elsewhere. No one here is going to be able to help out with anything.
My valve is on the side, and my tank is a horizontal tank.
The tank on my boat was also a horizontal tank, with the valve at what WOULD be the top if you stood it upright.
My understanding is that horizontal tanks need a special valve, which is why they are more expensive.
I am also sorry for your loss . I have to question tho as to how is a forklift tank any safer? They lay on their side instead of upright. I also carry the 20 lb tank in my basement and it is secure but after this Maybe not. Again sorry for this to happen Larry
The tank in most motorhomes are mounted horizontally as well, but the valve is on the top.
The reason these tanks, which feed propane gas (vapour) to the device, must be kept with the valve on top is so that vapour and not liquid propane will vent if necessary. Liquid propane venting will expand many thousands of times in volume and very quickly become a huge explosive cloud.
Many vehicles that use propane for engine power use LIQUID propane to the engine intake. Therefore the valve is usually on the side with the internal pickup near the bottom of the tank.