RE: Keep old Generator going or new?
From the info I have, there are several versions of the 4.5CKM21 - at least 2 versions of the engine and control systems. I have a later version with the KT17 Series II engine and a circuit board for the control.
Here's a link to the Kohler Classic Engine Manuals. You can download the Owners and Service Manuals for the engine.
But, they are probably of limited value, as much of what you is needed is in the generator manuals - the control system and the governor.
The control system has some "interlock" features and the only potential shutdowns are from the low oil pressure switch or loss of AC output.
From my experience, your hard starting may be from a sticky fuel shutoff solenoid - mine freed up after a few cycles - or it may be from the fuel bowl going dry. Mine will go dry after sitting for a few days, and it takes a lot of cranking time for the fuel pump refill the bowl. Onan has built a "prime function" into some of their generators where the Stop switch will run the fuel pump. I have mine set up so I can jumper the fuel pump power for a few seconds before trying to start it.
I also improved the running by putting fuel system cleaner through it. Well recommended cleaners by the forum members include SeaFoam, Techron, B-12, Onan, and a couple of others. For generators, you can mix it heavily in a gallon can of gas and use a fuel hose into the gas can. Run it for a while, let it sit so the cleaner can dissolve the gum and varnish. Repeat a couple of times. Even let it sit overnight. (I did mine by treating the whole MH tank of fuel before a trip where the generator ran for over 5 hours. The cleaner helped the main engine, too.) I now use SeaFoam as it is also a fuel stabilizer.
Others have covered some other fuel issues that may be causing the problems after yours has ran for a while.
The other item that may cause some engine firing problems is the 12 volts going to the coil. There is a circuit that provides the 12 volts that goes to the coil. I think in yours it is a transformer from the 120 volts output that provides AC voltage to a rectifier and the output is the 12 volts to the coil (and to the relays in the control) and to charge the battery. If the AC voltage is falling off, the voltage to the coil could be low.
If you haven't done it, check the battery connections, the battery negative to frame connection (often hidden corrosion) and the generator negative connection at the frame and the battery cable connection.
I have some scanned info that should help you including info on the control you described. Click on my username, and send me an email with your email address and I'll send them to you.
For what it's worth, mine is an '89 model (in a '90 motorhome) that has run for many hours with no major problems, including powering the air conditioner while driving. The "record" was a weekend trip where the generator logged 53 hours with a couple of breaks when I refueled - about 15 minutes each - with the A/C compressor running almost all of the time.
RE: Gravity fill leaking when filling water tank
On some of those fill systems, there is a small hose to let the air out of the tank as the water comes in - there has to be a vent. It connects to a small fitting adjacent to the water inlet. Some have a small screen that is visible from the outside.
If that small hose comes off from its fitting, it will let out a small amount of water when the tank is full and it may appear that is coming from the large hose.
I hope my description is adequate. But I think it is worth checking for it to be a problem.
Mel
RE: Suburban Furnace Model SF-35 Battery Drain
Much of my "knowledge" is from the various manufacturers and other credible sources that have printed or put their info on the Internet. And much of that is from other forum members' posts. But your MH is a couple of years newer than mine, so a lot of what I have for it also fits yours.
I'm a little tardy on the reply, but my links didn't work and both websites listed below have been redone since my last visit. (That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it.)
Your airbags are probably Firestone Ride-Rite's: Ride-Rite Air Helper Springs. You can "wander around" that site and learn more about them. The rear springs for your '92 Chevy motorhome are probably an earlier version of these:2080 Kit. In the Air Accessory Kits, you can see different kits that they have for control of the compressor. At the end of the Installation Manual, they have information on adjusting the pressure and recommended minimum and maximum pressure. Basically, they are used to get the motorhome level under varying rear axle loads.
The front airbags may be these: 4100 Kit.
When the front airbags fail, they are often replaced with these: Air Lift. They are available from a number of online sources.
The front airbags are an integral part of the front suspension, and need to be at the correct pressure as they affect the alignment, and hence, the ride and handling.
From the Chevrolet motor home chassis service guide:
"Inflation pressures should be maintained at 10 psi minimum to avoid chafing.
Under load, 40-50 psi is recommended for a 4,300-lb. suspension, 50 psi for a 5,000-lb. suspension, 80-90 psi is recommended for the 5,500-lb. suspension."
You can also do measurements of the suspension components to determine that they are properly inflated; and they need to be properly inflated if you have a front end alignment done.
There also higher rated springs that can by used to replace the existing springs and the airbags, but they are more expensive than the bags.
I hope that helps.
In the future, I recommend that you start a new topic when you make a major topic change. In this case, I know there are members that have some experience with the airbags. If you do a Search on airbags or air bags, you'll find a ton of posts in Tech Issues and Class A, too.
Mel
RE: Converter Problem???
Some misinformation in the posts on the 6345. I don't plan to replace the one in my motorhome unless it has a major failure.
MagnaTek became Parallax, and you can get information on the converter here: Linear Converters. The Technical Documents Link at the top of the page will take you to a block diagram that should help you understand how it is wired to the fuse board, a schematic and a photo of the converter section.
The charger output posted on the door is the "average charge rate". There are two charger boards - a 6 amp version (option code "C")that was normally installed, and a 12 amp version (option code "CC").
If the furnace is connected to one of the 3 right hand fuse positions on the DC fuse board, it is connected to the battery, and the converter charger with its limited output is trying to power it as well as other devices connected to other fuses. Many furnaces take 6 or more amps, and if they run a lot, the result is a battery slowly losing its charge. And, from past threads, more than one RV manufacturer did connect the furnace like that.
The left 6 fuse positions are powered by the converter when AC power is on, and there the limit is 45 amps total for all the loads. Others have moved the furnace to one of those fuses and stopped the discharging problem.
Since she only needs to charge the battery once a week, the charger may be working correctly. They can fail, and if she has someone with some basic electronics tech abilities, the common failures can be repaired - an auto reset circuit breaker and a high power resistor are "common" failures.
The most common complaint is that they overcharge batteries in hot weather - batteries use a lot of water. But, the output "maintenance" voltage can be adjusted to prevent that.
If the choice is to replace it, Best Converter has a WFCO unit that is a fairly easy replacement. Progressive Dynamics has a similar unit shown on their website: Intelli-Power 4600 Series and he may also have that model.
But the 6300 series converters have been replaced by all of the multistage converter brands - Iota, Progressive Dynamics, WFCO and Xantrex. And, from another thread, it appears some models are showing up on Ebay with very low prices now.
RE: Suburban Furnace Model SF-35 Battery Drain
I'm glad you found it. You made had acquired and provided some good information. But you found the problem and posted it before I saw it.
I'll make some comments on things you said.
Your dash switch should cause a relay to pull in connecting the house batteries (the ones by your generator) and the chassis battery for Emergency Start. That relay (sometimes called a solenoid) should be near the chassis battery with the heavy positive chassis battery going to one large terminal, and a similar size cable from the house batteries going to the other large terminal. The small terminals are for control of the relay.
When the engine is running, that relay should engage so the alternator charges the house batteries. And that relay is called the battery isolator - one relay usually is used to do both isolation and emergency starting.
The wiring in the compartment where the converter is located was possibly used for a large inverter (changes the 12 volts DC to 120 volts AC for TV's, kitchen appliances, etc.) or inverter/charger. (It is not good to install batteries and electronics in the same area - the gasses from the batteries are corrosive to the electronics.) If it was an inverter/charger, there may be an AC power cable in that area, too. If it was an inverter/charger, they may have just left the converter installed and unplugged the AC power to it. They removed the inverter/charger before selling it, and didn't recheck that it was working correctly.
If you didn't get manuals for the appliances with the RV, find the make and model information on them as many of the manuals are available online.
Mel
RE: Suburban Furnace Model SF-35 Battery Drain
I looked early this morning, and the converter model hadn't been posted yet...
The converter model makes a big difference.
MagnaTek became Parallax, and Parallax discontinued the 900 line over 5 years ago. It is a ferroresonant converter, and Parallax has the information on them on their website: Ferroresonant Converters. You can download an owners manual and a FAQ document, and click on the Technical Documents Link at the top of the page, you can get a schematic for it on that page.
The current Suburban listing shows the SF-35 furnace draws about 9 amps.
The converter is connected directly to the batteries, and all 50 amps should be available to power the furnace and any other loads and charge the battery when you are on shorepower or generator. So, the batteries should not be discharging when the furnace is on.
The converter does have a couple of unique requirements. It requires a good battery, or a battery simulator, to have the correct output voltage. And, particularly when on generator, the generator AC output frequency must be 60 Hz or higher or the output of the converter drops rapidly.
Some things to check:
1. It is common for the generator to start off the house batteries, but some use the chassis battery. So, you need to determine which yours uses. Disconnect shore power. Disconnect the house batteries. Try to start the generator - and/or check the voltage at the generator with a meter.
If it still starts, it gets its voltage from the chassis battery.
2. If the generator started, shut it off. Try the furnace. If it runs OK, it has been rewired to the chassis battery.
If it doesn't run, connect the house batteries, turn on a light and try the furnace again while watching the light. The light should only dim slightly with the added load of the furnace. If it gets real dim and/or the furnace fan does not come up to speed and the burner light, the battery needs to be recharged, or possibly replaced. If there is a good battery shop near you, they usually will test batteries for free.
If you have a voltmeter, you can check the output of the converter and at the battery. The converter output is about 13.8 volts when it is correct and the battery is at least partially charged.
With the converter output being 13.8 volts, it will take at least 3 days for that converter to fully charge deeply discharged batteries. (The initial charge rate is high, but falls very rapidly.) And, in hot weather, that voltage will cause the battery to need a lot of water.
Make the checks to determine which battery your generator is connected to, and on the furnace performance running on battery only.
Mel
RE: Suburban Furnace Model SF-35 Battery Drain
I guess I wasn't clear...
We need the make and model number of the converter - there are not all created equal, and it would be helpful to know what RV you have - year and model info.
Mel
RE: Suburban Furnace Model SF-35 Battery Drain
What RV?
What power converter do you have? Make and model?
Your problem may be the result of the manufacturer's choice of connection point for the furnace power.
Mel
