| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Electricity at refrig. outlet
Did you pull the outlet and check for loose connections on it? If you are referring to triping the circuit-breaker a number of times, the problem is with the refrigerator. Some refrigerators are on an GFI circiut which can easily get tripped if the DW happens to clean one with a damp rag. One with reset button is usually in the bathroom.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/25/09 09:39am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: ABI Award info needed...
We had a 1992 Award Classic 30. The battery compartment was outside on the back corner street-side. The battery-tray slides out (2 coter pins need to be pulled), and mine held two 12v batteries. We traded ours in 2006 for our current motor-home.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/25/09 06:25am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: How many volts does a fully charged 12V battery have?
A charged battery (100%) has 12.6 to 12.7 volts.
90% 12.5 volts
80% 12.42 volts
70% 12.32 volts
60% 12.20 volts
50% 12.06 volts
40% 11.9 volts
30% 11.75 volts
20% 11.58 volts
10% 11.31 volts
dead battery 10.5 volts or less
For accurate readings leave the RV unplugged from shore-power overnight. Any reading over 12.7 volts means the battery still has a surface charge. Read the battery with voltmeter at the terminals for the most accurate reading.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/23/09 07:50pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: House Battery problems
Check the circuit breakers. The circuit breaker powering the converter/charger may mave tripped. Also check the fuses since the charger section may not be working. The fuse is most likely a 30 amp fuse.
If you do not have a multimeter you should get one. Best way to test batteries is to check voltage at the battery-terminals, with the unit unplugged overnight. A 100% charged battery is 12.6 to 12.7 volts. A 50% charged battery would be 12.1 volts. Now plug into shore-power and check the batteries again with the multimeter. If your charger is working you will see at least 13.6 volts (14.4 + volts if you have a 3-stage charger section). If the converter section is working the 12v lights should work along with refrigerator ect., but if the voltage is only 13.2 volts the charging section is not working.
Check your converter/charger manual for more help in trouble-shooting. The batteries may still be okay if you can get them properly recharged. Also; if batteries are low it helps to start the engine and leave it idleing before trying to start the generator. You can also check voltage at the battery to see if the alternator is charging the batteries. It should read anywhere from 13.6 volts to 15 volts with the engine idling. I am assuming you remembered to leave the house-battery disconnect switch on to charge the batteries.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/23/09 03:25pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: 4 months too long to let disconnected batteries sit?
Your solar panel sounds too small (35 ma?). You should be using either a 9 watt panel (0.6 amps - 600 MA) or maybe a 15 watt panel (1 amp). Your panel is only good for a lawnmower battery.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/23/09 09:30am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Calling all ONAN experts
Bobbo:
I guess they are all down south sitting on the beach and having a cold one or two.
My board needed to be replaced by my local RV dealer last year. The service person was able to disconnect wires on bad board, and jumper a new board to test the system quickly. After my okay the board was replaced, along with normal maintenance service requested for the generator. Everything has been fine sine the service.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/23/09 07:18am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Using furnace and solar battery charger versus winterizing
Thing to remember is that an 80 watt solar panel will only supply about 5 amps for each hour of peak sunlight. During winter months that mean about six hours each day. Your furnace will use 7 amps each hour that it is running, and maybe another 5 to 10 amps each 24 hour period for monitors. Also; you will be taking a chance with the furnace turning on and off with no one there to monitor it. I feel you will fall behind and flatline the batteries.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/21/09 04:01pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: update no 12 volt power
Did you charge up the batteries for 12 to 24 hours after getting 12v circuits working again? You use the battery cutoff switch to store after charging the batteries. The fact that you got some charge back after running the generator shows that the batteries were almost dead. The batteries must be connected when trying to charge them by shore-power or generator, and an hour or two of charging isn't going to cut it.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/18/09 05:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Calling all ONAN experts
The remote-switch is not likely the problem. The remote-switch, and the switch on the generator have separate circuits. If the remote switch failed, you should have been able to overide it with the generator switch. The generator-switch should have been blinking that there was a stored error-code, and you should have been able to recover it. That brings us back to the control board, with either a loose connection, or a bad board.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/18/09 03:06pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Calling all ONAN experts
With all the items that are not working correctly, I suspect it may be the control board.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/18/09 12:25pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: looking for owners manual fleetwood gearbox
You could go to the Fleetwood internet site. There is a section there where you can e-mail them. I purchased my 2003 Jamboree in 2006. It did not have the manual. After contacting them through the site, they sent me the 2003 manual NO CHARGE at that time, although the site stated there was normally a cost for a manual.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/17/09 06:49am |
Toy Haulers
|
|
RE: Inverter 'Power" Interference
"Frecku":
I almost hate to remind you, but your your original post about the manufacturer's inverter being the problem was probably correct. It is obvious now that their inverter was not shielded very well since it starts giving out interference to your televisions's VCR, after reaching a 500 watt load. Then again, the manufacturer of the television/vcr combo. could have shielded their vcr section better.
Since many people might consider interference from a microwave normal and just ignore it, we do not know if other brands of inverters do any better.
One last question. Did the installation instructions mention any maximum length for cable used in installation? If so, did you exceed length for any connection?
Mark :@
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/17/09 06:41am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: 2003 Newmar Montainaire ??
Most people who know how to do the maintenance would keep the maintenance records of what they did. If the current owner claimed he did the maintenance, but never kept records, I would not trust him. Odds are he did almost nothing, and could be hiding problems from you. Also; he should have saved the records for any work done under warranty.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/15/09 06:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: converter/battery
Your basic problem is that you ignore your battery and never add water to it. Replacing the converter/charger and ignoring the new battery for a year or more will will get you back to the same position in another year or two.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/14/09 07:07am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Question about cable tv hookup.
The connection outside by your power-cord storage is the cable connection. The television connects inside to the antenna-connection. The cable wire goes to this inside box. You turn off the anplifier switch when watching cable television.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/13/09 05:39pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: DW
Normally the following is true, but some have their pet names for what the initials mean.
DW = dear wife
DD = dear daughter
DH = dear husband, dumb husband, etc.
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/13/09 06:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Who changed my Profile address and zip code?
The best thing to do now would be to go in and change to a new password and correct any changed information. Then signout each time your done using this site. If you use it many times each day, sign in and out each time. Also; update and use virus, and other protection systems to see if someone has control of your computer. If you use this site from your work computer, the problem could have occured there.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/13/09 06:41am |
Forum Technical Support
|
|
RE: Inverter 'Power" Interference
For your "trigger wattage test" you might get one of those small halogen bulb work lights. They only cost about $5.00 and can use either a 300 or 500 watt halogen bulb. I tried one outside at a campground when we were with a group. I put it outside about 8 feet from the motor-home, aimed at the side of motor-home, for indirect lighting. It still lit up multiple sites. The different bulbs will cover down to 300 watts. A regular lamp with 3-way bulb could cover lower wattages.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/13/09 06:26am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Inverter 'Power" Interference
The problem may be the inverter. However; I am having problems with your voltage readings. Since a fully charged battery is about 12.65 volts, you cannot possibly have reading such as: 12.90v at start (Did you just finish charging? Surface charge.), and 12.76 volts after the test. Your meter must be giving incorrect readings (reads higher than actual voltage). Did you take individual voltage readings at each battery after the test? For 6-volt batteries multiply voltage reading times two for comparison to a 12-volt battery percent charge versus voltage chart. Example: 6.32 volt reading times two is 12.64 volts or 100% charged battery. Your batteries may be okay but you have lost me with the high readings. Other members with who run inverters to power a microwave off batteries may be able to comment if your voltage drop, under load, was normal.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/11/09 05:47am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: furnace questions
Have you checked the cage blower for a possible mouse-nest, and lubricated the shaft connections? It may be running slow. Also; is the current battery holding enough charge to operate the furnace system? You should also vacume, or blow out all furnace air-conduits. Any mouse nest could block air-flow to cause sail-switch, or limit-switch to shut down the system.
Mark
|
MNtundraRet
|
11/10/09 06:39am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
