RE: Camping in NP, can't cut tree limbs for coach clearance!!
A few years ago I took offense to being assigned a very small site, when I complained state park ranger said "we save the larger spots for larger units".
What really sucked was after 3 day stay, the large sites were still empty. So size can be an issue when you have a small one. ;)
RE: Improving dash A/C?
We have a wired indoor/outdoor thermometer that sets above the temperature control panel with the external sensor mounted in front of the radiator.
Great I was thinking about putting one up front, right now I have one in the reefer and next to the stove hood, I can keep up with reefer and the cook can justify how hot it is in the kitchen, or it's too hot time to go out for dinner. :p
I do have intake air thermometer in the obd2 readings but I only turn it on occasionally. When I quoted outside temp it was from the ir shot at the rearview mirror outside. With those reading I returned to the shop and said check pressures as a 32 degree difference from air is too low. They repressurized and came up with 10 more degrees at idle, so next trip should show new numbers.
RE: Improving dash A/C?
It might be helpful to travel in the very early morning. Maybe start out at 4AM to avoid the hottest sun time and when the ambient tempature is at it's lowest.
The best
Thanks anyway, but that would only give me two hours sleep, when we travel we are on vacation if retired folks can vacation. Alarm clocks aew for when we were working.
Last trip did consider changing schedule of travel if we couldn't get new compressor installed :) , luckily no problems or hangup with install. If I had to travel without a/c your method would be great.
RE: Improving dash A/C?
What's wrong with running the generator and roof airs? That's what they're there for. We run ours all the time, that's what we bought them for. Nice and comfortable while we travel in our FL. heat. Spend a $100. in curtains to save a $1. in fuel?
Last trip was 2500 miles and driving time added up to about 80 hours, that would increase cost of fuel by 20%, about 1 gal/hr running genset. 80X2.50=$200.00 more for fuel and 80 hrs genset maintenance. Maybe if it was a diesel costs would be a little less.
Curtains + rod = 30 - stay in walmart parking lot while installing $10 less than last KOA parking spot ;)
RE: Improving dash A/C?
If I am going to only have one or the the other I perfer dash air in the face rather than blowing on my bald head. :)
The original post was initiated due to hot air from behind like from a sauna rather than cold air hitting a bald head. Figured the curtain would stop it better than my opening the overhead vent in the middle of the coach.
Having seen the PO bills from Onan for repairs, no way could it be better to run genset.
RE: Improving dash A/C?
The black, see through, side window curtains I
They worked like a regular old roll down window shade
You could contact Winnebago
Sounded good so I went to a Winnebago parts supplier website, none with the dimensions I need plus price was way high.
I will keep looking until I find time to manufacture myself, using rollup mechanism with tan sunscreen material left over from exterior window screen job.
RE: Improving dash A/C?
Thinking about hanging a curtain behind front seats?
Not a bad idea or maybe hang them a little further back, so the dinette area would be cool. If you are just driving and no one is in the back, why worry about cooling the whole RV?
If you go the curtain route, you can get a number of different curtain tracks styles at Curtain-Tracks.com.
Was considering just a rod, but if it solves a/c problem, I will order a track and shower curtain kit from this site. There is a break in the headliner where track could be mounted, would make a neater job.
Still looking for site with side window sunshades, did see a nice mesh rollup for a car window, white outside and black inside, but it was only 14 inches wide and I need 24 wide and about 30 long.
RE: Improving dash A/C?
I had to replace the heater coil in mine because it was leaking. While I was at it I added two shut-off valves in both the entry and exit from the core. I shut off the inlet valve manually, so even if my a/C control valve leaks a little, I don't get any hot coolant into the heater core.
----------------------------------------------------------------------What type of coach, model and year do you have ?
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Change Filter
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Airstream Land Yacht 30 2000(chassis completed in 98 given 99 by chevy, but sold as 2000 :R )
What filter, didn't see one under dash, did put mesh over opening into A/C air intake.
Prior to having compressor replaced, I took the hoses off the heater coil and rerouted back to motor, valves will be added, in my research I did find where some units use the heat in combination with a/c cool air to dry it for dehumidification in defrost cycle.
Doghouse gaskets are tight, thermal insulation could be improved altho by sound level it is good. Maybe an extra layer of foam under the carpets. I did insulate space under dash between firewall and cab.
Black sunshades for side windows and curtains, curtains easy fix with new cloth shower curtains, light and nice colors, but the black sunshades supplier yet to be found.
Improving dash A/C?
Replaced compressor, tech said it was the best they could do, "never will cool area, too big" he explained when on max, a/c uses cooled cabin air that is not cooled enough. Best temp at closest vent was 58 degrees on a 90 degree day. Cab was not cool.
Has anybody solved this problem?
Thinking about hanging a curtain behind front seats?
Another option would be reflective window film on side windows. Front already has it above line of vision.
Anything else, don't really want to run genset and house air for travel.
RE: Breakdown Information
I had not heard of this one before. A friend was traveling in a mountainous area and when he got into town his brakes gave way. Pedal went to the floor. RV specialist drained the brake fluid and put new fluid in system and everthing worked fine. RV spccialist said when the brakes got hot from riding them down hill, your4 brake fluid boils away. Have since reseach and called local RV repairs and they said this was true. So in order to prevent and occurance on my RV i took a turkery baster, sucked out a lot of brake fluid and put new in. I hope i took out any brake fluid contaminated with water vapor.
This month I drove MH from FL to Ohio. After all the hills and mountains on return trip, MH brakes failed when No hills or mountains flat land for 20 miles and normal city driving just before getting to CG. after entering CG in Kentucky stopped normal at gatehouse, started to go to site and at first speed bump tried to apply brakes and it went to floor. slowly manuvered to site and checked all wheels temps, found rear drivers side was 300 degrees while rest were about 150. Bled cylinder, when mechanic showed up from GS's he bled passenger side and helped jack drivers wheel up to check rotation and stopping, gave it his ok to drive. Checked it in cg, cautiously drove and braked all was normal.
Used about pt of brake fluid, fluid I removed from system was black looking actually dark green on pouring.
Side note, most parts on chevy chassis are american, brake bleed valve needed 10mm metric.
RE: Ripped off in S.C.
Great post for analysing, I love a post to bash a dealer and actually give a name and location, BUT it should be from a better source, a knowledgeable OP with experience and good facts. This poster should have been censored by the moderator, and I hate censorship. Remove the name calling and give facts, yes I have experience with a couple of blowouts and can put the blame in my case where it belongs, the tire manufacturer, Firestone.
RE: Seal Kit
When I couldn't find source and on looking at what it would take to get the unit off, I decided to try transmission stop leak. It worked.
How much did you use? How long before you saw a change?
sucked out 16 oz and replaced with the sealer, ran the jacks down and up a couple of times, waited a week and when I used them no leak.
RE: Seal Kit
Does anyone have a good source for a seal kit (800129S) for a Power Gear leveling jack.
All help would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks Chuck
When I couldn't find source and on looking at what it would take to get the unit off, I decided to try transmission stop leak. It worked.
Hopefully I will have same results as person on forum that said they did it two years ago and still working.
If you find a good source, please post.
Dave
RE: Engine controlled by computer, how to solve a problem.
Just an outside the box guess, could it be the gas cap? Sometimes the closed fuel vent system malfunctions causing goofy symptoms. Simple to check.
Not so far out, I had it on my list to check, especially since many cars will show a fault if it isn't screwed on right.
What is your simple check?
RE: Engine controlled by computer, how to solve a problem.
Too many possibilities to be throwing out guesses. Put a scanner on it and monitor it while driving...
Thanks, good idea, I will keep the scanner hooked up and let the copilot monitor the live feed. In the meantime I will look for a program to have the navigation laptop record the signal.
Guesses are generally a bad way to diagnose but when the guesses are from experiences on a 454 having the same problem solved, it is worth it to me. I can replace almost anything and still be ahead of the guesses of a technician at $100/hr and his retail price of parts. Especially when he uses all engines as his experience not specificly a 454 chevy used in a motorhome chassis.
RE: Engine controlled by computer, how to solve a problem.
I had a problem a couple of years ago with my 2004 W20 where it would shutdown while driving down the road. ... it turned out to be corroded connections where a bundle of wires passed through the bulkhead. The corrosion would cause the computer to get info it didn't expect and it would shut down...
In my old Dodge chassis mh they put a wiring bundle plug behind the battery, 50 connections, when battery leaked most were corroded.
I think I will start at the front, pull plugs, open inline fuses, check for corrosion, spray with contact cleaner and a dab of dielectric. I was going to check all grounds as that is one of the big causes of breakdowns. It's too bad copper wire is so expensive as a good solution for most would be to run a ground wire to all chassis ground connections.
RE: Engine controlled by computer, how to solve a problem.
Mainship where are you reading about 454 gas brake downs? Your shutdowns sound more like a plug(s) connection issues perhaps that is requiring you to reboot your computer. I did have a check engine light come on a few weeks ago and at a stop light I shut off the engine and have never seen the CE light again so far.
There was a post about the dying you mention in the last few months but I forget how they found/fixed the issue.Class A topics
this website
Sticky Breakdown Information
Lots of posts 64 pages but between the diesels and fords I have found quite a few mentions of chevy aka workhorse but older.
Engine controlled by computer, how to solve a problem.
After reading all 454 gas breakdown posts, it seems to be a common occurrence that sensors tell computer to shutdown engine for preservation.
Do all sensors record in the computer?
Which sensors can be bypassed to keep engine running until it is convenient to repair.
1999 Chevy p32 chassis with 454 7.4L, 32,000 miles.
PO changed fuel filters every time he had problem or service and showed me where the spare filter was, I think he was trying to warn me of the possible problem engine has.
After driving it home 50 miles check engine light showed problem with O2 sensor so replaced. I also changed spark plugs, wires(chewed on by field mice or squirrel} also replaced chewed vaccuum lines. First trip of 50 miles no problems second trip of 75 miles a couple of shutdowns.
I am still trying to workout 2 engine shutdowns, NO error codes in the computer, first time after two hours at 55mph, no power coasted to side of road. It restarted after checking all fluids, second time again after two hours of driving but at a traffic light on proceeding into intersection, power was limited, it was running enough to make it though intersection, pulling to side of road, turned off key and restarted, sounded normal so drove last mile to home and parked.
I still have a few things to try: insulate fuel lines(possible vapor lock), check fuel cap, test fuel pump pressure, confirm vacuum at manifold.
Put on that spare fuel filter :o ,according to book, filter is only changed every 30,000 miles.
RE: Breakdown Information
6 years and 64 PAGES of problems and still no summary.
After reading all 454 gas breakdowns, it seems to be a common occurance to be sensors telling computer to shutdown engine for preservation. My question is which sensors can be bypassed to keep engine running until it is convenient to repair.
1999 Chevy 454, still trying to workout 2 engine shutdowns, NO error codes in the computer, first time after two hours at 55mph, no power coasted to side of road. It restarted after checking all fluids, second time again after two hours of driving but at a traffic light on proceeding into intersection, power was limited, it was running enough to make it though intersection, pulling to side of road, turned of key and restarted, drove last mile to home and parked.
RE: Another leveling jack rebuilt, what a PITA...
I had two jacks leaking slightly and decided to try transmission stop leak. That was two years ago and they haven't leaked since. For only about $6.00 its worth a try. My jacks are Big Foots.
Thanks, I will add some to the resevoir, I was spraying the post before it retracts but I don't think it can get past the outer ring.
Only other way would be to inject into the line but if it didn't cause a problem in two years, much easier to add to tank.
