RE: Norcold not cooling in motion
Well, some new information. The right side door gasket as it runs down the length of the door is what, 1 1/4" wide maybe? About 8" from the top corner there is a 3/8" x 8" section that has torn off and is just hanging there. I did the paper test and there is a noticible lack of friction in this section when compared to the rest of the door seal. Another test was when we were driving my wife got up and put her palm over that section of the door and she insists she could feel cool ait coming thru. I'm not sure quite how to fix this piece that is just hanging on.
HUH:S replace the door gasket. please tell us you were yanking our chain.
Why would you think I would be yanking anyones chain?
surely you knew the gasket would have to be replaced,just thought you might be having a little tongue in cheek fun with us :B
I knew it has to be fixed, but everything I've read so far says that these gaskets are not fixable; the whole door needs to be replaced. I am/was looking for an easier solution.
RE: Norcold not cooling in motion
Well, some new information. The right side door gasket as it runs down the length of the door is what, 1 1/4" wide maybe? About 8" from the top corner there is a 3/8" x 8" section that has torn off and is just hanging there. I did the paper test and there is a noticible lack of friction in this section when compared to the rest of the door seal. Another test was when we were driving my wife got up and put her palm over that section of the door and she insists she could feel cool ait coming thru. I'm not sure quite how to fix this piece that is just hanging on.
HUH:S replace the door gasket. please tell us you were yanking our chain.
Why would you think I would be yanking anyones chain?
RE: Norcold not cooling in motion
Well, some new information. The right side door gasket as it runs down the length of the door is what, 1 1/4" wide maybe? About 8" from the top corner there is a 3/8" x 8" section that has torn off and is just hanging there. I did the paper test and there is a noticible lack of friction in this section when compared to the rest of the door seal. Another test was when we were driving my wife got up and put her palm over that section of the door and she insists she could feel cool ait coming thru. I'm not sure quite how to fix this piece that is just hanging on.
RE: Norcold not cooling in motion
Took the TC on the road yesterday after removing all of the dauber nest, but refer began warming up again in just a few miles. After sitting on the driveway again last night the temp had dropped to 27 this morning. I took the vent cover off the roof and didn't find any obstructions there so I'm still scratching my head. Guess I'll just take the thing in and have the professionals look it over.
There is NO WAY the refer will warm up in a few miles from a LP flame or problem with the flame. IF it warms up that fast you have an air leakage problem. You need to block the drain line for the evaporator to prevent warm air from being sucked into the refer and then test drive again. Somehow you are either sucking cold air OUT or are sucking warm air IN and the usualy way is the evap drain tube. The other would be bad door gasket in conjunction with the evap drain tube. A LONG shot would be a Cooling unit NOT sealed to the box correctly. But this would only be a factor if the CU was replaced. Doug
We are just seeing this exact problem. Ours is a 2005 Norcold 4-DR and even though we would see the temp go up somewhat in the past, this time it was way beyong that. We would start out with the fridge at 34-36 degrees, and after driving 400 miles it may hit low 40's. Today it got up to 61 after about 150 miles. When we stopped for a lunch break, it started dropping immediately. When we pulled out after about an hour it was down to 46. Drove another 170 miles an it was back to 61. I agree that even if the fridge was off it should never go up this much in such a short time. I must have some kind of air leak.
RE: Dish toppling over
OK, here's something to ponder. I checked the LNB, decided to be on the safe side and run a brand new cable. Even ran it directly to the SWM box; still nothing, not even a hint of a signal. OK, so now I decided to just reset the receiver (3rd time), and as I got to the zipcode screen, I read it off to my wife. She says "that sounds like the zipcode for Gaffney, SC". OK, I did not use the dish in Gaffney, but the settings of 217A, 45E and 65T were what the dish was set for. So, I changed the zip to Red Bay, AL, settings are now 205A, 48E and 70T. Set the dish up, point it, 95% first time. What the heck! how could it have worked for the four days before the storm blew it down?
Anyway, our last night in Red Bay, and I have my TV back.
Go figure!
Dish toppling over
Question: We are sitting at the Tiffin service facility here in Red Bay, AL and two nights ago we had a hellacious storm. The wind knocked over our portable dish, and now I can't get a signal. It fell hard enough that the small plastic cover popped off the back of the LNB.
How easy is it to push a dish like this over and actually damage the LNB? It is a 18" 5-lnb SWM.
The reason I ask is that it originally took me 5 minutes to set it up, and now I get nothing at all.
RE: DirecTV HD and Kingdome
Well, after several tries I gave up and just setup the tripod. I had absolutely no problems going back to the SWM dish. I did read somewhere where the order of how things are connected are important: connect both cables directly to the receiver, go into settings and set to multi-dish, then set the dish type to 18" round. I'll give it another shot next week.
RE: SATILLITE DISH
I'm still waiting for W4RLR to let me know how he managed to get his Kingdome to work with his HD receiver. I finally gave up and put up my tripod and SWM dish...that process only took about 5 minutes, but I would still prefer to use the Kingdome (and just have SD channels) when we are only parked for a few days.
I did see one comment (I think the DTV forum) that said that the order of doing it is very important; first connect both cables from the Kingdome directly to the receiver, go into settings and select multiswitch first, then 18" round. I will probably try it again next week, as I think we are the only motorhome here (we are at the Tiffin Service Center in Red Bay, AL) that has a portable dish out :D
RE: SATILLITE DISH
We have HD receivers and a KingDome. So we only get SD when we are camping. If I want HDTV, I'll have it at any sticks and bricks I have in the future and just use the boxes that are in the fiver.
How are getting your Kingdome to work with your HD receiver? Could you tell me how yours is connected (SWM box, etc.). We just upgraded to HD (with a new stand-alone outside dish) but now that we are rolling again I would like to use the Kingdome.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
RE: DirecTV HD and Kingdome
First your kingdome does not have 2 lnb's it has a "DUAL" lnb (One lnb, two outputs) Two LNB"s (Which do not come on the dome type) are called Twins.
Second, NO DOME will do DirecHDTV, Not king dome, Not winegard, Not motosat, Not _______ NONE of them. Some will do DISH HD, but there is a problem there too.
To do either right, takes a DISH type antenna. One with MULITPLE LNBs
In the case of DirecHDTV, the LNB's are of 2 different types (Frequency ranges) which is why no dome can do it.
So, are you saying I can no longer use my Kingdome with the new receiver even if is just to get non-HD channels?
We have been on the road now since last Saturday, and I've tried getting a signal with the Kingdome several times. It seems to lock onto a satelite but I'm not sure I am getting the settings on the receiver right. When I had the non-HD receiver I never changed any settings. Anyway, I can see where to set the dish type, but the next box wants to know SWM or Multiswitch. Are there any other settings that I need to know about?
