So thinking that one bus was not enough, I bought a second scenicruiser and I will relay that story elsewhere. But it got me inspired to get back to work on 149. One issue that I knew we had was a locked up brake on the tag axle.
First step, remove the rearmost wheels on the driver's side. One of the inner stud/nuts was rounded off so I went to get a new one and luckily I took the old one with me because the parts store wanted to sell me a left hand thread when the one I took off was right hand thread. After some discussion, I got one like I had, and then went back to the bus. Folks in the know suggested that I should check all the wheels on the bus because the left side should have left hand threads. Sure enough, someone has swapped all of the rear hubs on the bus side for side. so now I have to switch them back.
As for the brake issue, I had a little difficulty removing the straight slot screws that hold the brake drum to the hub because someone had previously dimpled the snot out of them, presumably to keep them from coming loose. After braking one impact driver bit, I headed for the local tool supply store to get the big boy set of straight bits. After some generous whacks I got the screws out but I will not be putting the messed up ones back in. I hope to find replacements that are torx or something.
With the brake drum off I found that the rear brake pad was missing, except for a few pieces that had jammed between the drum and some of the brake hardware. Rivets are all gone too. Just a bare shoe. The front pad appeared to be new but was coated in goo that resembled roofing tar. That same goo also covers virtually everything else on that side of the axle.
I thought I would check the inside of the hub and started to remove the cover bolts but the first one I touched fell out in my hand the second I turned it with a wrench. It had been glued in place with RTV because the bolt was broken inside the hub. (crap) Most of the rest of the bolts were stripped or just hanging on by a thread or two. Looks like I will be investing in some machine work before I get this issue resolved. Since I will be working on a similar issue on the other bus very soon I decided to leave the hub problem for another day.
Nice work, I've never even heard of repairing a valve like that!
You can rebuild but NO shop or service center ever would. Liability and the fact that Gas valves are NOT to be repaired- replace only. But, if you want, like the OP, rebuild it. Just understand the risks. I would never allow a friend or family to use a rebuilt gas valve. I value them. Doug
I have to respectfully disagree. First, if it was not meant to be rebuilt they would have constructed it in such a way that it could not be easily disassembled. Also, If your not supposed to rebuild them why do they sell the grease to do it with. Once the grease is in place assuming the valve is not damaged it works very simply. turned one way the gas flows through the holes turned the other way the gas does not pass through. This is on the low pressure side of everything, and assuming that you check for leaks, as I did periodically) there is little or no danger. This valve is not like on a stove where it is used often and in multiple positions. On the fridge, it is on or off. But, If you have a couple of grand for a new fridge, you might want to replace rather than repair.
We have an old Jayco with the front living room and picked it for that very reason. Our front is lower profile so it tows nice but at 6'4" I do have to duck down when moving about in the front room. For my wife and most others it is NP. On the other hand, we don't do that much standing in the living room, so it suits me fine. Kitchen and dining are full height. In the back bedroom we have plenty of inside storage and I can stand up to get dressed and undressed in the bedroom. I have tent camped enough to know that I prefer to stand while getting dressed.
I got my cooling unit from Arcticold Refrigeration on EBAY and I was very satisfied with the system. It looks well built and they provided all the screws and the special mastic sealant that you need to put the new cooling unit in place and useable instructions. I also got plenty of help from watching the videos that are out on the internet. There were a couple of minor fitment issues with screw holes not lining up, but considering the age of this fridge and everything else, I have no complaints. Compared to the price of a replacement refrigerator this was a real bargain.
The fridge in my Jayco never worked and we have used the trailer for several years with the fridge sitting in the garage and plastic taped over the openings in the trailer. I finally bit the bullet and ordered a replacement cooling unit. The install went smooth and the electric heating worked perfectly, but when I hooked up the gas I had major leaks from the main gas valve. When I went to replace it I found out you can't get there from here. They haven't made that valve in 20 years. Took some thinking but after reading about folks here doing repair to the valves on their stoves, I decided I would try to rebuild the fridge gas valve. turned out to be fairly simple. The valve is a brass cone that fits into a brass block with the reverse cone in it. The valve is held in by a spring that helps hold pressure on the mating surface of the two parts. The sealing grease in my valve was stiffer than frozen butter. I was able to order some stove grease online (holy cow is that stuff expensive) and after cleaning away the old grease I put a generous amount of new grease on both parts of the valve and presto... no more leak. Fridge works great and cost about $600 in total parts.
Sorry for the delay, The work on the buss has been slow going cause of a couple of deaths in the family and a whole bunch of work on a new project. We ended up with property that we are getting set up to park our camper or trailer or what ever. Anyhow, the bus has substantial rust damage in the back and I have been SLOWLY working on removing the old rusted out stuff so I can weld back new stuff. I have also started rebuilding the rear suspension but I have to make all the parts cause they are not available any more. I have learned how to pour my own polyurethane bushings, but one piece is still stuck to the buss and I have been reluctant to just cut it off. Hope to have more work done this year, but there never seems to be enough time.
I bought one of the Cabela's cameras as well, two things I did, wired the camera to a plug so I could build my own adapter cords for various different uses, and I got a couple of magnets so I could stick the camera's bracket to lots of different places. I have a large tool box in the bed of the truck and I can put the camera on the box to watch the hitch as I back up to my trailers then move the camera to the back of the trailers to monitor backing. Even use it to watch the load on my utility trailer.
The courtesy lights on my old Jayco had long since burned out and direct replacements were impossible to locate. The originals were incandescent bulbs glued into a plastic housing screwed in place throughout the trailer. The housings were all melted to some degree so I was looking for an improved lighting option. LED lights seemed like the likely answer but my local RV store had nothing useful in stock and the catalog showed some very expensive lights that just didn't suit me.
So while shopping for a 20 ton jack at the local farm and ranch supply store I spotted my solution. single LED bulbs in a 3/4 inch round housing PERFECT! They are from Custer Products part #CPL1W. I bought the white ones but they come in red and amber too. They wired up quickly and slipped effortlessly into the existing holes. And the price was a fraction of the price at the RV store.