Yeah they are amazing........
Unfortunately there is a lot of 'glitz', bells/whistles etc.
Folks see the 'glitz' and think 'high quality'I would have to agree the most of the amazing 5th wheels are gone .
The Teton's, Newmar's, Travel Supreme's, Carriage's, Alpine's, Excel and others that built a quality products. Only a few still build quality products such as DRV, NEW HORIZON, CONTINENTAL. I would say as long as the public perceive glitz as quality this is what we get.
Now-now, don't blame the glitz buyer on failure of the dinosaurs! They failed on their own.
Not a ton of people out there that pick the top end for a trailer. They just don't need the Bentley version when Dodge is priced better and has some of the Bentley comforts (glitz). After all, its a trailer, and its going to get pulled with a glitzy Dodge or Ford or GMC, not a Unimog.
I think your list may need modified a little - DRV is now Heartland, and I heard New Horizons may be in trouble.
I used to cuss the setup, and hesitated to take short trips, but with the 6 pt leveling and auto awnings and auto dish, it is really just too easy. Probably still not as convenient as your Class A, but as close as its going to get.
One thing I noticed with this one is set up is so easy and it has such a big water capacity, I don't have to plan and plan for that perfect spot at the campground. If its not available, I take another spot until its ready, and if my spot doesn't have water, sewer, I don't care because its a snap to retract and head to the dump station if necessary and put it right back.
You already know you will be over the payload of that truck, and I suspect you already are with your current unit. That 2410 lb pin weight on an 3150RL will quickly turn into 3500 pin weight, because everything is on the axle or forward. Cargo alone will put you over.
My 2,580 lb advertised hitch weight is 4,320 lbs in reality when I carry water, over 3,480 just taking it to storage with no food, water or clothes.
The washer (if you decide to get one) sits ON the pin, so that is a direct couple of hundred pounds over what they advertise.
But you already know that.
Well it becomes a pre-tow checklist item!
Battery disconnect switch to the ON position.
Didn't give it a second thought when we installed our disconnect switch, we run with the refer on, so you need the switch to the on position for the frig to work! :)
I'm rewiring my cutoff to be a true cutoff, and I'll cut the breakaway as well. To be honest, I accidently pulled the breakaway while putting it in storage, and it killed my batteries and I had to replace them. Had my cutoff been a real cutoff, I wouldn't have had to worry about it.
Just hang a tag on your breakaway cable to remind you to turn on the switch if you are getting as forgetful as me.
That's funny, I keep thinking that the Class A's today are amazing when I see them :) My jaw drops when I see the room in those where the whole side of the unit is a slide.
Serious, the 5th wheels have come a long way in the last 15 years.
We've had two Montana's. Very nice, both of them. The first one 2003 had some growing pains for a new company, the 2007 was a well built unit. We also looked at Cardinal.
You are getting some input about Montana Mountaineer, and Montana High Country - all different animals from the regular Montana. Even though they share the same name, very little about them is similar. Just thought I would let you know so you can compare apples to apples.
The lower clearance you are seeing is the Z-frame design Montana incorporated around 2008 or 2009 that drops the frame in the front to give you a huge storage area compared to the older ones. My 2007 was big, but the new ones are ginormous.
Make sure you press and hold the starter rocker button to the stop side for about 30 seconds. Sometimes you'll hear a click meaning the fault relays reset.
What happens is you may have had a fault while it tried to start the last time, such as no fuel, etc. and you have to reset before it will start again. I get that sometimes in the spring while trying to purge the propane fuel supply of air. If it cranks too long without sensing fuel it faults.
Who really cares what the back of of a 5er looks like? It's there to hold a bumper and license plate.
Rear bumper? You mean the square thin wall sewer hose storage thing? Just another entry level looking item. No thanks, I will keep my rear cap. Chris
I was hit in the rear... actually side-swiped. That cheap square tube was scuffed. The other vehicle had a 6" dent the entire length of his bed. Had my "cheap" unit had the molded fiberglass it would be a totally different conversation.
You must have the Montana Mountaineer - Montana had the fiberglass cap in 2013.
When I drove a big rig professionally for 20 years and had some wise a$$ try to draft me I would give them a good demo of the "Tennessee Waltz". Usually got rid of them, but if not, I would them give them a quick pull & release of the trolley valve. It's amazing what the immediate smoke and smell of burning rubber will do! :E :W
Ya - that is defined as Road Rage and thank god they are cracking down on it. A few of your types spending time in Prison up here for similar stunts that killed a family.
We have the Level Up and love it.
As said, the Level Up is hydraulic with a master pump and solenoid valves at each jack, and the 2.0 is electric with individual electric motors at each jack. Both share the same LCI controller, so I assume the leveling electronics are identical.
The only difference I can see is you have to set the extensions and pins on each jack like the traditional landing gears. Other than that they should operate the same (the electric is no doubt going to be slower).
Enjoy that new rig!
I've been researching intensely for one. I have similar issues, such as I don't want a lot of junk hanging inside because there isn't a lot of room.
Yoyager has proven itself both wired and wireless, but I am not prepared to drop that kind of coin into it. No matter which way you twist it with options, they are going to run $700+
Read the reviews carefully on the lower end systems, I have heard many complaints of the cameras fogging up and they are shot after that, not serviceable.
This one seems to get good reviews, and they are priced inbetween low and Voyager. I haven't pulled the trigger, because I don't necessarily want that big screen on my dash. Rearviewsafety
Happy shopping and I'll be watching this post.
A fellow Montana owner had one of the first made, and he had a Hensley Trailersaver air ride hitch, one of the best around. When other frames were breaking, he always credited his success to that Trailersaver.
Unfortunately, he too found himself with a completely destroyed from frame and interior damage just like the rest like many of the others.
For me, the moral of that story is get the air ride hitch for the comfort of the ride, but don't fall for the hype about it saving your trailer or truck. If the trailer or truck isn't built to handle the job, it doesn't matter what hitch is under it.
I know you will not agree that is just the way I see it.
I would agree if it made sense, but it doesn't. Without the gooseneck, the truck and truck frame attached to the hitch is taking the stress, with the gooseneck, the stress is on the frame of the trailer.
Including the hitch in the pin box relation is not correct. That would be like saying both systems ultimately get pulled from the bottom of the tires so there is not difference between the two.
I have towed fifth wheels with both a goose-neck adapter and a full tilt fifth wheel hitch and old style fifth wheel. The following is what I have seen. The goose-neck moves the pivot point down about 12 inches. The full tilting (fore/aft and side/side)fifth wheel hitch moves the pivot point down about 8 inches (tilt pin located 8 inches down). A old style fifth wheel moves the pivot point fore/aft down about 4 inches and side/side down to the axles (no side/side on old style). My opinion only about 4 inches between goose-neck and full tilt hitches I do not see a problem here. No I am not a engineer just years and many miles of towing. Now let the hate begin.
That reasoning doesn't work for me. It doesn't matter where the pivot point is, what matters is the load point where the pin puts stress on the frame of the trailer. In other words the trailer gets pulled by the pin, regardless of what's underneath. The gooseneck moves that pin point down about 12 inches like you say, putting that much more stress on the frame around the pinbox when the trailer is pulled.
THANKS I SURE DIDN'T KNOW THAT ABOUT MONTANAS. I WON'T BE CONSIDERING THEM ANYMORE. JOHN
Our 2007 Montana had a King too, and they had already resolved a lot of the frame issues by shortening the nose. When the went to 12" frame and the rounded nose, it got even better yet.
If you are ordering, get every prep they offer, because it is a bear to install it later. W/D, generator, satellite, anything they offer. The cost from the factory less your discount off MSRP is trivial.