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 > Your search for posts made by 'Mile High' found 441 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Fifth Wheels with left side or rear door

Don't aussies need air actuated brakes as well?
Mile High 03/07/15 11:01am Fifth-Wheels
RE: looking for best 5th wheel for 1/2 ton pickup

I know some folks that like the Cougar X-Lite 5th wheel with their Toyota, but even the X-lite can chew up 9,000 lbs fast when loaded.
Mile High 03/06/15 09:24am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tires.... Keep for awhile or get them off???

abc40kids - I think your new Mountaineer has the same wheels as my High Country. There is not a max air pressure stamped on the wheel, but there is a max load of 3580 lbs stamped on it. The max load correlates to the max pressure. That equates to approx 105 PSI for the max air pressure (3580/3750 = 105/110). So, I wouldn't run them at 110; your trailer load doesn't need that anyway. The max load at 105 PSI = approx 3400 lbs, plenty enough for your trailer. That is absolutely incorrect and I'm not sure who would have given you that information. There is no direct correlation between the pressure rating and load capacity on the wheel itself, only the tire it is designed to hold. There is this false perception that these wheels are engineered to specific load ranges or pressures, when in fact the alloy wheel composition is nearly identical across size, style and even brand. Load ranges are not even scientific on a wheel - there is no destructive testing performed on a wheel to determine it's load capacity (so much for the safety margin theory I hear discussed all the time). Load rating is nothing more than a specification to the wheel manufacturer. If they build a wheel a specific height and width with a specific lug spread and stud size - it gets the load rating. It is certainly not tested to that rating. Ever wonder why the load ratings are such weird numbers? 3,750, 3,580, etc? Isn't it odd that no matter how odd the wheel ratings are (i.e. 3750@110 psi), there is always a tire that matches that exactly :). The wheels are rated to match the tires they are trying to market for, not the other way around. Ask Tredit why they don't publish any pressures on the website anymore. I got quite enlightened when I went through a reporting process to the NHTSB about a manufacturer that arbitrarily changed wheel ratings when the tire manufacturers came out with new tires.
Mile High 03/06/15 08:20am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tires.... Keep for awhile or get them off???

duplicate
Mile High 03/06/15 08:17am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tires.... Keep for awhile or get them off???

Goodyear G-614's will be put on.... I'll contact Keystone just to see if the wheel will hold 110psi or it might be stamped on the back of the wheel. I'm wanting to ask Keystone what they were thinking in the first place. I tried with the dealer but I'd haggled them to death already and being a tire dealer I knew I'd be using the g-614's anyway. I had them check to see if the max air was put in and rolled out, 90 min ride never over 55. Amazing how the G's look compared to the E's and as I left the dealer I looked at the Grand Design Solitide, another heavy 5er and found the same E tires. You can probably find your wheel here Tredit Tire and Wheel as I think Keystone still uses them. If you spot it, you can look up the spec. They won't give you psi anymore, but if its rated for 3,750 lbs load its rated for 110psi. Some of the 3,500 lb load wheels are only rated up to 90 psi.
Mile High 03/05/15 08:07am Fifth-Wheels
RE: FIRST TIME using 6 point leveling

Can it be used to remove a tire? I never thought I would actually do that - but wrong. It is the slickest thing you could ask for. I ran a bolt through one of my G614 sidewalls (that really hurt the wallet), and at the campsite I used the leveling jacks and had the spare on in 20 minutes with nothing but a lug wrench. Got the tire replaced and did it again before we left for home. Since then, I've rotated and balanced tires using nothing but the leveling jacks. I prefer to always be hooked up to the truck, because the front jacks are separate from the rear 4, and I'm afraid of trying to keep them in sync without twisting the frame.
Mile High 03/05/15 08:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: fifth wheel hitch

I really do not get the idea of not having an auto slider, I know some people just love their hitches and not all manufacturers make an auto slider. But really what is the difference if you have an auto slider and not need it for 999 times, only to have to use it just once? There is a lot of cost associated with protecting yourself for that 1 out of 999 times, and some like myself think those costs are unnecessary paranoia somewhat. Bedsavers, surge suppression, autosliders, the list goes on. Autosliders are heavy, costly, limited height adjustment, require special adapters, and realistically if your front cabinet won't open when hitched, the only way you are getting in that cabinet with an autoslider is to disconnect altogether. Not saying they don't have their place, but you say you can't understand why, there is my reason.
Mile High 03/04/15 11:17am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Hydraulic slides and leveling

On the down side, our hydraulic setup didn't allow each slide to be extended individually. Many (most?) current hydraulic slideout systems have switches and solenoid valves to allow each slideout to extend and retract individually. Rusty There are a lot out there that were not controllable either. I remember the big "must have" option on our Keystone products were the manual valves near the pump that let you control each slide, but they were hard to get to. That at least got you individual hydraulic paths to each slide. Otherwise it was one loop and the one with the least resistance moved first and it was real expensive to convert later to individual valves and solenoids. Mine now just has valves that came standard, but they are still manual. I've actually only seen a couple of high end brands that had solenoid controlled independent slide movement on a full hydraulic system. The new electrics are cheap to build with independent switches, and I think even Keystone provides switches for that now.
Mile High 03/04/15 10:55am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tires.... Keep for awhile or get them off???

I would personally just drive straight over to GY and get them replaced, providing your wheels can take it. Not saying G614 are impervious, but when you bring your new rig home and it looks like somebody beat it to death with a naughty stick, I think GY is almost the only one that will consider paying for your damage. You won't get that from Westlake or Carlisle or any of those chimane types, and actually you won't get that from Michelin or Sailun either.
Mile High 03/04/15 09:22am Fifth-Wheels
RE: FIRST TIME using 6 point leveling

Also note that the autolevel has an internal limit as to how far off level it will go. In front of my house which is slightly downhill, I'll lower the nose all the way down to wash the front. It always stopped with about 3" of shiny piston showing on the front jacks and I though that was it. Tried it in a level campsite once and it went all the way down and would have crushed my generator exhaust if I hadn't stopped it. Lesson Learned #1 :) I use the wedge chocks. Anything else seems kind of useless. I gave away my Rotochoks because when the autolevel lifted one side, the equalizer changed the distance between tires and the Rotochoks would either fall out, or would become so tight I was afraid I was going to damage something. My daughter really enjoys them. Lesson learned #2 When it is cold - don't believe the display that jacks are up :) Do a walk around. The jacks stop on pressure, and when its real cold they stop prematurely and may still be dangling down by the ground. Just go to manual over-ride to finish raising them. Lesson learned #3 Check what you have stored underneath the frame before you take your brother-in-law over to the street side and start bragging about your autolevel system over an iced refreshment. You will not be able to resist hitting some buttons to reset autolevel so he can see how it works, and $200 coolers are no match for 17,000 pounds of RV laying down on top of them! Lesson learned #4 Maybe I should have just kept the manual jack rig :)
Mile High 03/04/15 09:02am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Hydraulic slides and leveling

Oh man - slides and a 6 pt leveling system is near BLISS! Tell the salesman if it the slides wont come in or the jacks raise - then vacation is still ON! Realistically, there is a provision as said above to operate the pump with the drill. If its a hydraulic hose failure, its a little more complicated but ultimately with an open line everything gets pushed in manually, including the jacks. Then you have a bit of work ahead to get the system filled and bled to start using again. There are tons of issues that leave these grounded - shackle issues, brake issues, awnings won't retract, frames break, etc. Don't let that salesman double talk you- get the rig you want and sit back and enjoy. Two things I love to watch over and over while I enjoy an iced refreshment is the Travler automatic satellite dish and the 6 pt leveling system! It makes camping, camping :)!!
Mile High 03/04/15 08:47am Fifth-Wheels
RE: tailgate hits camper

Like them or not a fifth wheel tailgate painted the same color as your tow vehicle looks pretty darn good.As some people have said in the past "sooner or later you will own one". The downside to losing the factory gate is I lose my Grandson step and the ability to lock down the contents with my Roll-N-Lock. Not true! Custom Flow makes louvered V tailgates with filler and lock. http://www.truckcustomizers.com/products/customflow-fifth-wheel-louvered-tailgate.html OK, partially not true. I don't see a step :) Realistically I doubt the locking bar on my Roll-n-lock would fit that gate and fill.
Mile High 03/04/15 08:08am Fifth-Wheels
RE: tailgate hits camper

Like them or not a fifth wheel tailgate painted the same color as your tow vehicle looks pretty darn good.As some people have said in the past "sooner or later you will own one". The downside to losing the factory gate is I lose my Grandson step and the ability to lock down the contents with my Roll-N-Lock.
Mile High 03/03/15 07:40pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: tailgate hits camper

I thought about this for a minute - are you hitching with the slider in the "tow" mode? If so, how come? Just slide the hitch back to connect, then move it forward. (in retrospect I think it was already mentioned) I did it that way for years because my tailgate would hit the camper unless I was exactly aligned, and even then you couldn't drop a dime between the gate and the camper (prior rig)
Mile High 03/03/15 01:06pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Question 6 Point Level Question ???

I've actually never had a battery switch on a trailer be a true battery switch. Both my Montana and Redwood left landing gear and slides (and this one even the hitch lights) on with the switch off. I will fix that this spring :) The only thing to be aware of is if you make it a true battery switch, you have to tow with the switch "ON" to make your break away electric brakes operate.
Mile High 03/03/15 01:00pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: fifth wheel hitch

X2 with Philly. I continue to use the Reese 16K slider even though I now have a long bed truck. Absolutely dependable for the last 10 years. Why drop a bunch of dollars (that I can certainly use for something else.) on some other hitch. Three trailers; two trucks; one hitch. X3 I had the Reese 16K slider that survived 3 RVs and 2 pickups. It groaned and popped and rusted a bit, but if I kept the slides lubed it always worked. I even added the Reese electric release that I could operate from the cab, but I believe Reese stopped producing that.
Mile High 03/01/15 08:33am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Filon Esterior VS Gel coated fiberglass

Just for clarification - and maybe I'm wrong - but I think it is all gel coat filon. There are different grades of filon, of which Keystone offers standard filon and a high gloss gelcoat which is just a thicker layer of gelcoat over the filon with a higher gloss finish. Exterior finish is one of my pet peeves - so I would go for the highest grade finish you can. I've had Keystone products with standard filon, and with high gloss option. The high gloss always looked better (shined like a mirror in fact) and the graphics adhered to it much better than regular filon. Just make sure the cabinet doors are also high gloss or they will degrade differently than the rest of the coach. There are a lot of 2007 era Rvs out there with yellowed cabinet doors compared to the rest of the exterior. Of course then there is full body paint, which we now have and it is awesome!
Mile High 03/01/15 08:28am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Long bed vs. Regular Bed

Thanks everyone.... I will keep the slider for the regular/long/ whatever length bed. Good grief - I'm not sure the correct term is even "Bed" anymore, or whether 3/4 ton is a correct term, and without a "crew", is it really a crew cab? I think you are out of line calling it a "5th wheel" now too, especially because it became a TV show and they have copyrights now. Hitch is no longer a word either - it's "civil union". :) Isn't it wierd after you say all the wrong stuff, the smart a$$es still know what you are talking about :)
Mile High 02/27/15 07:56pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: heat pump/ac

Actually all A/C units are heat pumps. You can also call them reverse cycle A/C units. Ken Huh? If it doesn't reverse, it's just an AC, unless you are just trying to confuse the issue like this 30A-2AC side discussion :R
Mile High 02/27/15 07:41pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: heat pump/ac

We have two heat pumps and they are fantastic, especially with the new fully ducted ceiling systems for supply and return. That makes one of the big advantages of the heat pump being they are quieter than the furnace. However, pricey option to retrofit for not a lot of actual gain. If it gets too cold (<30 degrees), our heat pumps become dead weight on the roof and the furnace starts anyway.
Mile High 02/27/15 08:01am Fifth-Wheels
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