"In general", what I've found is that as long as the front of your rig is over the cross walk lines when the light turns red you won't get a camera ticket..
Now, if the light turns red before you reach the cross walk lines, I'd suspect you'll get a ticket..
Now, I say "IN GENERAL" because that's all I can go by with what I've experienced with these dang cameras... I've seen where the light turns red when I'm in the middle of the intersection and I thought for sure I was "nailed", but didn't get the ticket...
It usually happens when I see the yellow and think it's going to stay yellow for a few seconds more, but of course it changes once I decide to go thru..
I do usually just stop when I see yellow, but sometimes stuff just happens... ;)
Crack a window or two, crack a vent or two, stop breathing, get some sort of mechanical humidifier, don't shower during that time, don't cook on the stove during that time, go outside.... ;)
I personally think that RV covers make a lot of money for the manufacturers of RV covers. They don't hold up to the weather much and seem like a waste of money. You'd be better off finding an enclosed storage facility for your RV as your costs would be similar over a 5-6 year period. And be sure to hope & pray your covered RV doesn't have to experience a hail storm because it will be shredded.
Not true in my case... ;) If I didn't have this cover, can you imagine what my trailer would look like after 11 years of parking under trees... (it took me the first 2 years to figure that out!)
This is a pic about 2 years ago and I still have the same cover that cost me around $180 9 years ago to this day..
Waste of money for some, but for me, it's been worth it... :) Sure, I'd love to have covered storage for it... Who wouldn't?? But that's not possible with how I have to get the trailer in this spot and too expensive off site..
To each their own and whatever works for you is the way to go!
Got plenty in the books for 2014 already, but that's only because I stilll work so I have to plan ahead to get the time off and to make sure I get a site I want when I want it.....
Now, I'm not going to post the dates I have planned because I'm just not going post that info on a public forum.... ;)
I hope to retire someday and not worry about time, but with the state of things today, that's not going to happen anytime soon, so I'll simply plan ahead and enjoy what I can, when I can... :)
Happy camping to all!
Basics: 24' max, possibly 2 slides (dining and other for master bed if possible, as we want a port/starboard bed layout),fiberglass body, NOcarpet, a useable kitchen, decent storage inside and out, and MSRP of about $25,000 max.
And this is supposed to be #4500 GVWR TT and be towed by a Buick??? If you find one, let me know! :)
I have a 22' (bumper to hitch) TT and it's a #5000 GVWR TT and weighs every bit of that going down the road (and then some..) No slides and while it's great for long weekends, I could not spend weeks, let alone months in it... ;)
Just go to Walmart and buy one of their Tracfone things and it's a done deal and you just throw the phone away when you are done with it... I think it was around $60 for the phone and 60 minutes of time.
You buy however many minutes you want, for as long as you want to keep buying them, but each block of minutes is only good for 90 days. So, if you buy 60 minutes it's good for 90 days. If you use your 60 minutes in 30 days and buy another 60 min, it's good for another 90 days.. If you buy 1000 minutes, you have to use it in 90 days or lose the balance..
You can even text and use the internet, but I think those eat into your minutes too? When I got a Tracfone before, I didn't care about the text/internet.. I just needed a temp phone for 90 days... (online add deal and didn't want to use my real phone number)..
You should check the coverage of course, but as I recall, it was as good as any of the major cell phone carriers..
Sounds a lot like my utility trailer (Lil' Tex). It's a 4x8 tilt bed. It has a "#1500" load rating.
It came with 12" tires, but I've replaced them with a higher load tire, but I never had an issue with the lower rated tires...
I put 2 yards of bark mulch in it or load it up with fire wood or other heavy stuff.. I've never really weighed it, but I've driven it at hwy speeds for hundreds of miles with a load in it (fire wood) and never had an issue.
Just make sure the tires are at their max cold psi and load up the bike and enjoy... :) Stuff happens every day, so no guarantees in anything we do, so just use common sense and that's usually enough to get you thru it!
That's all I do (blow out the lines)... My water lines are run along the floor until they go 'up' to whatever they feed.
When I open the low point drains and open all the facets that gets all the water out of the facets.
I then blow out thru the low points for several minutes until there is no more 'mist' coming out.
Give all the facets one more go around and call it good..
Oh yeah, don't forget the toilet and give the pump a run for a minute to get any residue water out of it too.
I've never used the pink AF. Now, my area does freeze at times, but not for very long stretches or below zero or anything like that.. Never had a broke water line in over 11 years.
Most folks will do what is comfortable for them and if that's just blowing that's their call. If they like the pink AF, that's fine too.. That's why they have different ways to accomplish the same thing!
Good luck with whatever method you choose! :)
Yep, that's why I carry a cheap 12v compressor in my truck. I don't need 110 psi, but I do need around 50 psi when towing, so if I am caught short on PSI, it only costs me a little bit of time... ;)
I do check my spares on the truck and the trailer at the start of the season, and top off, but have only found them to be about 5 psi off of max, so not really a big deal for me...
Still, very good advice, as you should always know what condition your spare is! :)
I've got 4 MiFi's for our office staff to use while out in the field with the 5G limit and in the 3-4 years we've had them, they have never even come close and that's running them with multi connections and on a remote desktop connection all day long..
Well, last month, I get the email warning that one is at 50% and it's only 5 days into it's cycle.... I tell the staff person the deal and the next day I get another one and finally get one that says it's now 2G over...
Finally get ahold of the staff person and she says that one of the managers has been using it.. Turns out he was using it to Skype with and it was raking up hundreds of mb of data usage per session!
Well, we finally got them to stop Skyping and they now owe the company $20 for the 2G overage, plus I've had to take that MiFi out of service until the next billing cycle..
So, that Skype uses a bunch of data!
wmoses, it's hopeless to try to convince others what they already believe or have read in the past... ;)
To everyone else, I've been running a K&N drop in filter for over 12 years and some 190,000 miles and have not had any of the issues that's always stated in these posts...
My 1997 F150 has over 253,000 miles on it now and I got it with 63,000 miles on it, so all those miles since then are mine... :)
I know this started out being a question on DIESEL trucks and I can't comment on those, since I've never owned a DIESEL, but on my gas engine, it's basically the same results as wmoses has, so that's my story.. Your mileage may vary!
My guess is that you 'over correct' when backing.. Meaning, once the trailer starts to turn, you are late with following it in and have to over correct to get the trailer to go the other way..
What I do is once I get the trailer going the way I want it, I turn the truck tires back so I can start 'following' the trailer on it's path. If I need to get more turn out of the trailer, I adjust, but try to get back to 'following' the trailer as soon as I can.
Also, watching where the trailer tires are going is another way to help with backing. When you can't see where the trailer tires are, that's when a spotter helps, but the spotter needs to know how to backup too, so my spotter is only really there to say "STOP" if I'm about to hit something I can't see.. ;)
Like has been said, it's all about practice and time behind the wheel... I started with my tricycle 'towing' a hand truck and backing it into my camping spots when I was 5 years old! :)
Been backing up things ever since then and it's just second nature, but I still can't backup to this day if I can't see where I'm backing up to and have clear views out of my mirrors or looking out the window... ;)
We bought a used 2006 keystone couger and paid $1,800 for a 3 year extended warranty. Frig want out $800, heater motor $600, sink cracked $350, gray tank cracked $1200, broken shackle $250. Currently in for leaking shower and outside shower not working both covered by the warranty. My recommendation is buying your trailer from a dealer that has been in business for a long time and take a close look at their shop, is it full, with rvs waiting in line for repairs. People are going there for a reason. I would not be without an extended warranty and glad very glad I had one.
Wow... That's a lot of major failures in a trailer for sure... Not the norm by any means.. The EW sure paid off for you in your case, but it still must have been a major hassle to deal with all those failures no matter who paid for them..
Hope you have better luck with the rig from now on!
Dad's 1971 F250 'Custom' Camper Speical has a whopping #6900 GVWR... :)
Still has it to this day, but it's retired now. Back in the day, we hitched up a 26' TT and had a slide in 8' camper shell in the bed.. 4 people in the truck/camper, dog and sometimes a 1969 Yamaha 125 in the camper with my sister and I!
390/C6 combo, split rim wheels, bias ply tires with actual inner tubes. No A/C, no power steering, rubber mats on the floor, gas tank right behind the seat.
He now has a 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually Lariat, so he's upgraded too!
How handy are you with tools and DIY stuff? Do you enjoy doing that kind of work around the house?
Tearing into a wall in either your home or RV is not going to be a quick or simple process that can be directed via a forum without a lot more info on your part, or at least pictures... ;)
I've done rotted framing repair on houses in my younger days when I worked in construction. Not fun or easy, but having a 'Journeyman' guiding the way, the job was done without issue and we fixed the problem that caused the issue in the first place too. I was able to do similar repairs on my own after that and even did it on my folks house to earn a little extra $$ when I was young and inbetween jobs. But I would not want to deal with anything like that now when I can pay someone else to do it now that I'm old! :)
Basically you have to support the structure that is not being ripped out, but bears weight, tear out the rotted stuff, , replace with new stuff and fix the reason for the water intrusion in the first place..
Not trying to be a smart ass, but it's a really open ended question, so the open ended answer... ;)
Good luck with the situation in any case.
I know it's a personal choice and you guys do whatever you feel is best for you, and that's great...
But I always shake my head and wonder "why" at the comments about not using the auto switch over feature as it was designed.... :) I know the comments always say that they got burned on this and had 2 empty tanks.... But, there is an easy remedy for that too... ;)
I simply LOVE the auto change over feature.. Have used it many, many times and so glad that it works as designed... I run my fridge on gas pretty much 99% of the time and I would hate to lose a fridge of food, or have my beer warm because I ran out of propane... I do have to physically pull the tank cover and check the indicator from time to time.. ;) See the red, move lever to other tank, pull empty tank, fill it, put it back and turn on and wait for next switch over..
Now, I only do long, 4 day weekend camping runs, so I guess if you are in your camper for weeks at a time there could be some validly to the practice of only using ONE tank at a time, but again, that's a personal choice and if it works for you, keep on doing it!
So, my opinion is just like yours and all I'm trying to do is give the OP a chance to make up his own mind on what he should do... :)
Good luck to all and I hope no one has to go out on a cold, rainy night to switch over their propane tank again! :) :)
Depends... What do you mean by 'struggling'? Is it that it downshifts to a lower gear and revs the engine more than you are used to? Say in the 3000-3500 rpm range and you slow down to around 50 mph?
If so, then that's "normal" when you are towing a heavy load up a grade... :)
What you are doing is letting your engine work and it's just running at it's peak levels, which it was designed to do from time to time.
Sure, it's louder and uses more gas, but it's not really 'struggling' IMO.
Now, if it shifts all the way down to first gear and you still can't get up the grade, that's 'struggling' to me.... ;)
As long as you retain the cats and the O2 sensors, you can cut out the factory "Y" pipe and fab up a 'true dual' setup... You'd want to incorporate an "H" or "X" pipe between the new dual pipes and not use too large a dia piping.. Something like 2.25".
But, it won't really gain you all that much, except for maybe the sound... If it was me, and you still want the dual tailpipes, go for the single in/dual out muffler as mentioned above and you will save yourself a lot of headaches in the future... ;)
Going to larger tires will only make your effective gear ratio higher (numerically lower) and actually bog you down compared to the OEM size.
As long as your OEM tires have the load capacity to handle the rear axle weight, you should be good as you are..
So, what is your concern with the grades? Is it having to drop down a gear or two and pull some 3000-3500 rpms? Or do you need to be able to hold 65 mph going up the grades? Or is it just the higher mileage your truck has?
My 16 year old F150 takes the passes here in WA State pretty good, but it's in 2nd gear, pulling 3000-3500 rpms and I feel I only need to go 50-55 mph. Still pass all the semi trucks! :)
I'm not pedal to the floor either. I will let the truck downshift and then I pull the gear lever to "2" and just let it cruise where it feels the most comfortable. Been doing this for over 11 years with this truck and trailer combo. The truck has over 252,000 miles on it too.. :)
I've got some aftermarket TRANS and WATER temp gauges, so I can monitor them and it gets to 210* on hot summer days, but cools back down to 195* on the back side, or when it flattens out again.
If you want a new truck, by all means get one.. :) I'd love to have a shiny new F150, but it'll still need to pull higher rpms and slow down going up the grades... ;)