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 > Your search for posts made by 'MustangGT' found 142 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Cleaning the curtains in front window of coach

we were going to trash ours (circa 1997) and make new ones. But cost of material was ~$200 so the wife threw them in the washer with a little bleach and an hour later they were drying and looked like new (almost, the blue is a little faded, but EVENLY faded). so I put them back up.
MustangGT 05/15/13 06:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Windshield availability??

Safelite replaced the windshield on my Mustang 2 years ago and while doing it I asked about RVs and exotic cars. The tech told me they can replace "ANYTHING". He said the week before he had replaced a windshield in a Lambo.
MustangGT 05/13/13 06:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Repairs

I did just what you are wondering about last year. My Onan BGM 5kw generator died after only 74 hours of operation. The crappy plastic ignition rotor had cracked requiring the gen to be pulled and split in half. Got that diagnosed by a tech at answers.com (or justask.com, I forget) I am a woodworker so I fab'd a quick little platform out of a few scrap pieces of 2x4 and a small 2'x3.5' sheet of particle board for the gen to sit on after I released the mounts. (BTW, The rv was up on the levelers and my gasser has lots of ground clearance). I also fab'd a studier little table out of more scrap lumber and just clamped it to the underside of the horizontal frame bar with the top of the table level with the top of the bar. I added a couple of quick diagonal pieces to keep both the tables from folding too. I have lots of such junk wood and wood screws. And sanity... Then I pulled and slid the gen out by hand. The little table served excellently as a workbench. When I was done replacing the rotor and reassembling the gen, I just pushed the gen back in and rebolted the mounts, reconnected the wires and hoses etc. And it still didn't start. So something else is also broken. Maybe one of the two little modules for the ignition needs to be replaced. They aren't expensive. Anyway, the diagnostic cost me $38 with tip. Which was a bargain. And the rotor cost another $40 with shipping. I'll get back to that gen problem later. We have never stayed in a campground that allowed gens, or we always had FHU's. Good luck. It wasn't a "rocket science" project and it WAS interesting. But typical DIY 2 steps forward, one back...lol edit: I would like to mod my gen and use the Accuride slides mentioned above when I get a few extra bucks. But if I never use the gen, why should I bother? That's a low priority project.
MustangGT 05/09/13 07:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: A/C units

I am a dedicated DIY'r who can't say "no" to a new problem and I also am not cheap, just stubborn. So here is what I would do: 1) Research air-conditioner function and patiently trouble-shoot as best you can 2) check the many online salvage places for used units:"http://colawrvsalvage.com/" or "http://azrvinc.com/" etc. for replacement of the rear unit if necessary. Pick their brains for alternatives. The A/C's are all basic hookups with similar installation as far as I can see. 3) recharge/repair of the front may be possible. Does the front unit have a recharge fitting? If not (most don't) find someone who can SILVER solder one in, pull a vacuum and recharge the unit. Or learn how to do it yourself. If you are like me, there is a certain satisfaction KNOWING I can screw something up and IT WON'T COST ME AN ARM and A LEG........LOL Good luck. I apologize for not sending you some sanity. I sometimes run short of it myself in these situations.
MustangGT 05/08/13 07:14am Class A Motorhomes
Radio Antenna

I'm replacing my OE radio antenna and upon examining my OE cable I actually see the black antenna line and an accompanying second electrical-type wire with a bare end that looks like the bare end was sandwiched between the metal of the inside antenna connection and the fiberglass cap. Is this a ground?to ground what? thanks!
MustangGT 04/26/13 06:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Yet Another TV Conversion

Very interesting thread for a very popular upgrade. I might revise my own install with a few of these ideas.... I pulled our old CRT boat-anchor out of the front cabinet a few years ago and replaced it with a 22" combo LCD/DVD player mounted to a 3/4" sheet of painted MDF. I REALLY wanted a bigger screen, but the two cabinets on the sides swing up and are frequently used. So I had to go narrower, which meant about 5" open space visible under the TV into the bottom of the old cabinet. That proved a blessing in disquise, as I was then able to stuff my older, unused receiver behind the TV to power a surround sound system. Later, I was even able to stuff the big system sub-woofer box behind the TV by setting it on top of the receiver with a couple of 1"x1" feet between the two. Its surprising how little "unused" space is left-over from the factory design these days. Or actually, since 1997 in my case. Every nook and cranny has something.
MustangGT 04/25/13 01:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Auto Parts Store

When buying parts for my Fleetwood>>> the "old Guys" at NAPA always come thru or at the least they come up with a knowledgeable work-around. The other 3 places we have in town, Auto Zone, Advance Auto and O'Rielly just look on the computer and find NOTHING.
MustangGT 04/24/13 06:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone make a mistake buying first MH ?

lol...the length of this thread...
MustangGT 04/24/13 06:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air Ride on a Class A Gasser

My RV has airbags and I wondered about automating the ride using air leveling valves at all 4 corners. I started at airbagit.com since they seem to have the most helpful and complete web-site. I broke the project into 5 phases, since I wanted to do it myself with minimal cost and minimal aggravation. if you know what I mean. i counted my current 4 manual air-bags as phase one, and for phase 2 (about $500 in parts) I did add a compressor, tank, filters and valves so i could route the air to a new 50' air reel (from lowes). I thought it would come in handy to keep the tires and bags inflated on trips. Also bike tires. That little project DID really pay off. I use that compressor at home too while the RV is stored. I've set-aside the rest of the project due to cost/benefit as mentioned above. The cost would run another $600 minimum-$2,000 in parts if I went hole hog. But in the end, I still would only use it maybe 1,000 miles a year:(. And those miles would mostly be on nice interstates. If you do use your RV a lot, don't mind the extra maintenance, and don't feel comfortable on the roads you travel, the project may be worth doing, or having someone do it for you. It was just not practical for me to go past my phase 2.
MustangGT 04/19/13 07:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Drivers Side Console??????

My RV is a entry level Fleetwood with few OE frills. On the left wall next to the driver's seat is a small OE wood rack that comes up to where an armrest would be. the top "shelf" sports a cup holder, leveler controls and a bubble level. That crude little shelf does get a lot of stuff piled on it; my reading glasses, wallet, a refreshing beverage, sunglasses, house keys, air-pressure gage, on and on. So I can certainly see why you want something. A junior wood worker type could come up with a quick 1"x3" rack with 3" deep shelves. Fasten to the wall with cheap angle brackets. Wouldn't take much to out-do the factory versions...LOL. Edit: I failed the "post a picture" calss, but you can google my RV type and look at the cockpit images. Many similar configurations like mine.
MustangGT 04/18/13 02:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New dash fan location recommends

success! I installed both fans on each side of the TV box and ran the leads down to my add-on fuse-box in the dash pod. Started right up! Took about an hour and maybe 1 or 2 vanilla-type curse words. Reviewers had complained the fans are loud when on high speed, but hey! Those things are MOVING AIR. So they are about as loud as to be expected. We will usually use them at the low speed anyway, and they are fairly quiet creating a gentle Caribbean, swaying palm-tree breeze.....woo-hoo
MustangGT 04/18/13 07:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New dash fan location recommends

I will be using mine for added air circulation while driving into the sun, and for long stints when my hands start getting all gummy on that plastic Ford steering wheel. Also, the middle top may be easier to run wires, since the TV box can be unloaded and all the wires are then visible. then just snake them over the diver's overhead cabinet and down the A-pillar to the circuit box in the dash.
MustangGT 04/17/13 07:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 460 exhaust manifolds

thanks Traveling ...I believe Carrol Shelby showed Enzo that right combination of engine AND aerodynamics is the best combination. GT40 That's right! LOL, he taught the Italians an unforgettable lesson with the GT40.
MustangGT 04/17/13 07:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New dash fan location recommends

after looking at even more pics, I think I will like the "middle-top" location best. -The bottom corners would be partially blocked by the dash instrument pod on the left and the laptop desk on the right. -The top corner, driver's side will be near impossible for me or anyone to reach while underway. So middle-top wins, since it will beeasier to reach until I put in the remote switches. thsx for the replies!
MustangGT 04/16/13 06:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 460 exhaust manifolds

Having read this thread and others. I'd like to check the torque on my 460 exhaust bolts. Can anybody tell me the spec? Thx. Our camper is little over 16 years old and 18k miles used. A good time to check I think.
MustangGT 04/16/13 12:47pm Class A Motorhomes
New dash fan location recommends

Good afternoon all! I have broken down and ordered 2 dash fans for my class-A. Those big windshields turn into giant space heaters in the summer sun! I am wondering where to mount them. I see the pairs are usually in 1 of three places; top corners, bottom corners or middle top- on the sides of the TV box. Can any of you suggest pros and cons based on your experience? Any air circulation will be a help, but switch access may be a chanllenge, since I won't be able to add the remote switches until after our next trip. thanks!!
MustangGT 04/15/13 01:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Struts to hold bed up for storage

Not to nit-pick, but these gas struts are supposed to be mounted with the fat (black) end up. That arrangement will keep the lubricant inside the cylinder in contact with the little rubber o-ring shaft seals and keep them moist and "sealy". just say-in'.
MustangGT 04/11/13 10:22am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I finally did it, portable motorhome wash.

THANKS Fire Up, now I have to add this to my long list of things I can't live without...:R:R:R Not to be gross, but I've stopped at plenty of rest-stops that could use a TON of soap and water on the pavement. After the darn truckers dumped their piss bottles right where they parked. Makes for a miserable welcome on hot summer days.
MustangGT 04/04/13 08:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator Clacking

I haven't read this whole thread, but since the overheating happens when the RV is moving, try adding a sheet metal deflector or two to channel air where you need it or hot air away from where you don't. Maybe a small weather-resistant 12v fan too? A low cost, low effort possible fix.
MustangGT 04/03/13 06:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing Nasty Carpet part II

I stripped our 34' RV floor front to back and replaced all carpet with vinyl tile or new shag (finishing dog-house now. Shag just to be plush on the trim and vertical pieces). My steps were fine. To do a 20 year job on yours I would get some sheet steel or thicker aluminum and after making a suitable cardboard pattern, I'd bend and pop-rivet it together to form a sturdy set of steps. then just cover that on the inside with vinyl stick-on tiles and/or carpet to look nice. that's how my 16 year old RV's steps are made (only welded). Stiffen the horizontal step sections with some 3/4" exterior plywood on the inside. Also, maybe some sticky black sound proofing on the outside back to minimize road-noise vibrations. Not too expensive or complicated and would last and last. Maybe add some custom 12v LED lighting, snazzy no-slip treads.... Actually a sheet metal shop could probably fabricate this easily with all their tools and know-how, but you'd probably have to leave the RV with them. Heck! Now I'm interested... Come over to my place and we'll wrestle it into submission!! Woo-HOOOOOO
MustangGT 03/28/13 06:54am Class A Motorhomes
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