RE: Gas tow vehicles
Sounds like you can save a LOT of money and head/heartaches by keeping your perfectly capable TV and get yourself a more comfortable commuter car.
Just the mpg differences will help pay for a commuter. You are willing to go from a Tacoma to a 1-ton for a commuter AND drive a 1-ton vehicle every day AND get rid of a perfectly good F350 dually 6.0 PSD?
RE: Silverado 2500HD owners input wanted
2005 2500HD, 6.0 4.10's. Consistent 14mpg 50/50 highway/city. That is pretty light on the gas too, slow to take off from stoplights, 60 mph in the slow lane.
Ride report - 2005 2500HD 6.0 - 9,700 lb 5th wheel
We just got back from our first road trip with our new 2009 Jayco 30.5 DBSA, Omaha to Estes Park and back. Scaled weight was approx 9700 for the trailer and 16200 total for the entire rig.
I was thoroughly impressed with how my truck managed the trailer. I was very concerned with towing that heavy of a trailer with a 6.0L, but it managed very well. I only had to drop into 2nd heading into Estes from Loveland. I had plenty of power and trans temps never climbed above 220-degrees.
Mileage heading out was around 10 mpg, that was with a tail wind, I could just leave the truck in Drive and RPM's were around 2400 traveling at 70 mph. Heading back to Omaha we ran into a pretty good headwind and had to leave it in 3rd for most of the return trip. 70 mph in 3rd ran around 3300 RPM's, mileage was probably 7 mpg.
I was pleasantly surprised that I had that much power even heading into Estes, I could easily gain speed if I needed by putting the truck into 2nd.
Heading down from Estes I just kept the truck in 2nd and only had to feather the brakes maybe a total of 10-12 times the entire way into Loveland, 2nd gear kept the speed right around 35-40 mph, which was perfect for most of the 20 miles from Estes into Loveland.
Brake temps ranged from 140 to 180 when I measured them in Loveland.
Overall I would give my truck a 'B+', greater gasoline capacity would earn the truck an 'A'. That 6.0L had plenty of power, sometimes too much as I would gain speed too quickly when dropping into 3rd from Drive, or into 2nd when heading up the mountains. I found I could just leave it in 3rd for most of the trip from Loveland into Estes, and had plenty of reserve power.
For anyone concerned about their 6.0L, just remember that these engines make their horsepower and torque up around 4000 -4500 RPM's, and do so at the cost of gas mileage ($$). They are totally different than diesel engines. You will get worse gas mileage than a diesel. But for a weekender and occassional 1,000 mile road trip they are great engines.
RE: Need More Towing Power for GMC 5.3L
Are you revving high enough? Peak HP for your truck is at 5200 RPM's and peak torque is 4000 RPM's...
Here is the GM link to your motor:
click here
RE: Timbrens needed?
The truck rides perfectly level with the Timbrens. Hitch is a Reese 16k perfectly centered over the rear axle.
While it does ride a bit jittery, as RollingRock experienced as well, it's not that bad of a ride. I would definitely rather have a stiff ride than one that is full of up and down motions.
I guess I was afraid of the rear springs traveling their full up/down stroke with large bumps and that would just add an uncomfortable constant whoopty-do sensation to the passengers.
Is the 1,880 pound pin weight in the right range for a 3/4-ton truck? I know the 10,100 pounds is right at the limit, but unfortunately need to keep the truck until I can get back into a 3500 diesel...
Timbrens needed?
I installed Timbrens since the new trailer was going to be heavy and I didn't want the rear to drag. Now I am considering removing them but want to ask opinions on weights.
As scaled fully loaded ready-to-camp (with DW, son, dog, firewood, food, etc.):
16,460 total (I know, we are over here, but good on all axles)
3,280 front
4,920 rear
8,260 5'er axles
Unhitched (re-weigh):
6,320 total
3,480 front
2,840 rear
Total pin is 1880, (8200 - 6320). Hitch is installed directly over the rear axle.
Truck: 2005 ExtCab Chevrolet 2500HD 6.0L (4.10 rear), Tires (50psi front, 75psi rear)
Trailer: 2009 Jayco Eagle Super-Lite 30.5DBSA 5'er, scaled weight 10,140, pin weight 1,880 (18.5%)
Do I need the Timbrens? Was wondering how these trucks hold up to that kind of weight, will there be more porpoising, jerking, floating if I remove the Timbrens?
I have plenty of power for the trailer, it rides fairly stiff with the Timbrens and the rear tires at 75psi, just wondering how it would be without the Timbrens though. I know, I could remove them and pull it for an outing but wanted to get a few opinions first. What's the difference in ride with the rear springs taking all the weight.
RE: Jayco Bike/Cargo Carrier
Have used our new Jayco's bike rack/cargo carrier, sorry, no photo though.
It has a flip up 'hitching' post that pins into place along the back rail, I just secured the bikes through the hitching posts holes with bungee's and a cable lock for security.
A word of caution though, you'll get lots of side-to-side and front-to-back movement along that hitching post, so make sure you put an old towel between the post and your bikes as it will rub pretty good. (learned this the hard way) Or maybe better yet, get some sticky glue-down rubber type material and cover the hitching post with that... (and then post this mod to the modifications forum!)
This option is MUCH better than trying to modify your square-tube bumper, very handy! Plus it just slides under when not in use.
RE: What are folks hauling with their 2500HD 6.0L Gassers ?
Just upgraded to a fifth-wheel, 30.5 ft., weighing in at 10,100 fully loaded ready-to-camp. This thing pulls MUCH better than my 28 ft. travel trailer.
The performance exceeded my expectations since I am close to my weight rating for the full rig, but she runs like a champ! I thought I was going to be up in the 3-4000 RPM range all the time, but it still settles down to about 2500 when pulling on the highway, it'll downshift when approaching a hill, then it'll jump into the 3k range, if needed it'll drop into 2nd, but that is WOT pulling a loooooong hill.
I was definitely impressed with the performance of my 6.0L with this new 5-er on it, plenty of power and the handling is much more improved over a bumper pull TT.
I put timbrens on the back just to help with sag, but didn't necessarily need them since I was under the payloads for the truck.
2005 2500HD, 4.10 rear-end, 4x4.
RE: Fuzzy Math UPDATED
You are quite correct. Tell him that dividing a number into another is not a percentage. A percentage is always multiplication. His 1.4 has nothing to do with your 40%.
His 1.4 number works out to be like a 28.5% discount, he has to get his number up to like 1.65 to work out to the 40% you are after.
RE: One more weight distribution question
Your profile doesn't show your Tow Vehicle, not all TV's will drop the same from front to back with the WD hooked up. For most vehicles you'll want the front and rear to drop the same with the WD on, that way you know the tongue weight is 'distributed' evenly across the 4 wheels of the TV (actually the 'distributed' part really means between the TV and Trailer, but you didn't ask that question).
For my Chevy 2500 it is recommended to get the front as close to the original (unhitched) height after hooking up the trailer and WD.
RE: GM 6.0 HD Transmission Dumping Fluid
My '05 2500HD Silverado had trans pump problems late last year, luckily still under warranty. After the fourth trip to the dealer, I contacted GM to open a case, then the Case Manager from GM took over.
They finally re-manned the trans, new front pump, new torque converter, etc.
So my advice to you, raise some h3ll. Even though you are passed your 36k miles, still launch an appeal.
RE: Your favorite things..........
Utilize the outdoor/under awning area as an extension of your living space. String a line for wet towels, swimming suits, etc.
I find it much easier to cook outside when we have a large group of people with us. Using electric skillets to cook breakfast is much easier outside using either the picnic table or a portable fold-down table, I can also make an outdoor 'canteen' using plastic bins that I keep most of my cooking utensils in (spatulas, cooking spray, paper towels). Using plastic outdoors (bins, fold-down table, table cloth) will help if any rains come also.
Go easy on the water. It'll go fast with that many people. Make the kids use the provided toilets/showers as much as possible.
For Dad (or both):
--Think safety.
--Keep extra flash lights handy.
--Keep important keys and wallet/purse in a safe spot.
--Make sure everyone knows how to escape in an emergency.
--Make sure the towing goes safely, know your TV/TT combination. Check weights, tire pressures, etc...
Most of all: don't get caught up in the details, make it fun, go with the flow, don't let arguments ruin the weekend...
RE: Silverado 2500 Ride
I just upgraded the rear cab mounts on my '05 2500HD, they do make a difference, but not in the undulating/pulsating/reverb of the expansion joints. They soften the jolts felt from the bumps/holes, etc. They don't get rid of the reverb from a bad highway!! The ONLY thing I've found that will help this is to slow down or change lanes.
HERE IS THE KICKER: In my case, I have factory installed (dealer installed) side/running boards, when the tech installed them, he must have used an impact to tighten them, thus negating any softening from the bushing since the bushing was crushed so the cab mount was basically metal on metal. I am going to replace the other 4 bushings with originals ($12.00/ea) from dealer.
If you are experiencing a severe jolting from every bump in the road and have already lowered your tire pressures, have decent shocks, etc., do yourself a favor and remove one of your cab mounts, you might find you need new ones, or at least replace the bushing if they were/are crushed like mine were. You will be able to remove the lower bushing without having to lift the cab (on the Silverado's anyway).
Hope this helps.
RE: Need new tow vehicle
Geez, talk about a hijacked thread, with pics even...
Back to the OP:
For basic safety reasons (and some legal ones), you'll want to know the ratings of the truck/SUV's you are looking for. You will want to know the total weights of the all your cargo, this means luggage, people, etc., that you want to put in/on the truck, look at the sticker on the driver's door and add your cargo weight (plus hitch/tongue weight) to that number. That's how you'll know if a truck/SUV can handle everything you are asking of it.
