WOW.....All you Hollier-than-thou responders amase me! If you dont like Dogs/Pets, I suggest you get out of RV'ing.As for some of you Smart Azz's....Yes, I do ask my neighbors whether my dogs have been a problem. I take responsibility for my pets as I KNOW most RV'ers do....the perception that all dogs bark when left alone is so far from reality that its not worth commenting about. It seems some of you have been on the road Toooo long and you are so intent on having things your way, that there is NO room for anyone else's idea of Fun and relaxation!
Ive had dogs and Camped/RV'ed my entire adult life and Ive never had issue one with someone else's dogs..NEVER I honestly believe that those here that have no patience, no sense of give and take are so wrapped up in there own little world, the fact that you even have a Dog at all is enough to set them off. Trust me, its always some on the same people on these threads that take such offense to anything Dog related. With all this being said, the common meaning of "not leaving pets unattended" is meant to mean "outside" and we all know this.
I love these Dog threads....Dogs are a part of RV'ing, so get over it!
Oh....now have a Good Day :B
Wow an expert on barking dogs, but has never experienced any in a CG. this past April in a South Carolina SP we had some tenter's camped next to us that had a big dog tied out to a Sky Kennel along with a small yappy dog. They left for over 12 hrs. with one attending to the dogs. Every time people walked by the campsite the yappy dog barked, this went on for the entire time they were gone, sorry you weren't there so you could experience your first barking dog. At another campsite we were at previously the people left their small dog in their TT with the windows open and no curtains closed and that dog jumped up and looked out the windows and barked at everyone that walked bye, again left alone for over 6 hrs. so don't me all dog owners are considerate or caring for their dogs.
Another topic you didn't mention is those that do not clean up after their dogs, and I suppose you have never seen this happen either. Some dog owners are as clueless as some families that let their kids run wide,through other campsites, yelling, etc. Some RVr's are considerate and some are clueless and should take a course in courtesy while camping.
Now before you assume I am a dog hater, we have traveled with up to 5 dogs when we had a TT and now travel with 3 Basset hounds in our MH. When we leave they are crated and we leave a radio on, which blocks out any outside noise, as our MH is very well insulated from outside noise. We have an Auto Gen system to keep the AC units on if their is a power outage.
So like Jack Nicholson, once said "You can't Handle the Truth" to Tom Cruise.
We are 1/3 of the way through a 7500 mile X country trip. I have used FJ exclusively and have had no problems until yesterday. At exit 95 on I 65 south of Indianapolis, IN, the diesel sign indicated $3.89 9/10 (cash) and with my Good Sam Reward card I thought I would be paying $3.83 9/10 to fill my DSDP, HA!!! I failed to look at the price at the pump at the RV island, and when I was finished, saw that I was being charged $4.14 9/10 per gal. This is over 30 cents per gal., or in my purchase, $22.00 more. When I complained, I was told that if I checked the price listed on the interstate sign, I would see that it said "tax exempt trucks only". They were right, and you could see it if you had strong binoculars.
I have always paid the price which was shown on the hi way sign so this is a new gimmick. I don't know if this is exclusively in IN or if this is going to be nationwide. Has anyone else experienced this?
If you had paid attention when turning into the service road to the Flying J, there is a very large sign with all prices listed and the Car/RV Diesel price posted. All Truck Pumps in Indiana have the Exempt Tax price posted, which means that you need a specific number as being Tax Exempt and you pay your fuel tax on a monthly basis.
As to pre-paying before you pump at the Truck Islands, that is not unusual at many Truck Stops, based on my experience, i.e. Love's if they do not have RV pumps. Some Pilot's I have used also charge more that the Truck Pumps vs. the RV Pumps.
It is the responsibility of the driver to check the price before they pump and not blame the station, for your ineptness, IMO. I don't use small stations as I want fresh fuel vs. fuel that has been in a regular small station that probably does not pump much diesel.
After I first loaded our RAV4 I marked the ramps and used a magic marker to make a line on the ramps, so I could line up the front tire when driving on while leaning out the front window. Made it very easy for me to load it by myself. I had loading and c connecting everything in less than 10 min. I never regretted using the dolly in 5 years. I also had a trailer ball on the back of the RAV so when I unloaded it from the dolly I could tow the dolly to my campsite.
I would recommend Tough Top Awnings. http://toughtopawnings.com/
I did research on replacement for Dometic, and another Company and found that the Tough Top Awnings were heavier, than original, vinyl and easier to clean and less costs. Some install choose to DYI, but I chose to have Precision Painting, where I was having some other service done handle the installation. I have had them for two years and very pleased, easy to clean, vs. the acrylic O.E. slide Toppers and a thicker material. I dealt with
Tough Top Awnings
and very satisfied with their service, etc.
Don't know about Monaco, but in our MH we have a switch at the front step area that kills power to the 12v system when MH is in storage. I had this problem late at night on our last trip and flipped the switch on and off several time and the power came back on. This switch goes to the solenoid distributes the 12v to the different areas in our MH. In the near future I am going to replace the solenoid to insure I don't have a problem again as I have already replaced the switch once.
You might check and see if you have a similar setup.
What is the towing capacity listed by the Mfg.? If only 5K then you have the correct hitch, if it is 10K you should change the hitch. The hitch receiver does not determine towing capacity, the Mfg. does based on the chassis, etc.
I think everyone agrees with my feelings although DH is upset with me for saying no way, also they do not provide any insurnace for property or liability. This is a marina on Grand Lake, so if they let someone test drive it and had a accident and injured someone, we would be the ones to get sued! This marina has alot of consignment boats for sale but I dont think they are going to get ours.
Is there something wrong with your DH? He should be taking you out to dinner.
Tell DH to check with our Insurance Company, as many do not cover RV's when on a Consignment Lot and the Dealer's Insurance will not cover as they do not own the RV or have Title to it. I agree DH should take you out for dinner, with the money saved from not being liable for any damage, theft, etc. while on the dealer's lot. I personally would never use a Consignment Lot to sell my RV.
Before you consign I would check with your RV Insurance Co. to see if damage, theft, etc. would be covered while on a Dealers Lot. A Dealers Insurance will not cover anything they do not have Title to and a Consignment would exclude any coverage by them. Be sure you get everything in writing to be sure.
I have had 3 stone chips repaired, in the last three years, in my two pc. windshields as opposed to replacing both windshields. If done properly they are not very noticeable and prevent a replacement from leaking, etc. My insurance Col. paid for the repair vs. a deductible if glass was replaced. If a problem develops in the future they will replace the windshields.
It sounds like the nut inside the roof needs to be tightened. You will need to take the handle off,inside the MH, and it takes a special tool that slides up over the shaft and tightens the nut that holds the shaft tight to the inside of the roof. I just had mine done when I had the TV antenna break outside where it feeds into the aluminum arm. Tool is like a 6-8" hollow pipe with 6pt.hex that fits over the nut.
I have been using Collinite's #845 Insulator Wax for over 20 years on all of my vehicles, TT's and now MH. http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/
I wax my MH twice a year and as it is a 2003 model it still looks like brand new. I use less than 1/2 a pint bottle of #845 to the entire MH.It is the easiest and best wax I have ever used. I sold two bottles on a recent trip to people that complemented on how shiny and new looking my MH was, they were impressed.
I have been using Collinite Wax #845 Insulator wax on all of my vehicles, RV's, enclosed car trailer, etc. for over 20 years and have not found any wax that is easier to apply and remove. I wax my T.S. MH twice a year and it still looks like the day I took delivery. I can wax my MH with less than half of the bottle (pt.) and still wax several of my other vehicles. I have used it on all of my classic cars that have very expensive paint jobs, as it does not leave any swirl marks and is easy to remove with a cotton towel.
I also recommend their #840 Pre-Wax Cleaner that works great to remove road dirt, etc. if you have not waxed it in the past. Some Marine Stores sell it or you can order it direct from the company.
Any good car wash soap would work well. Spray just enough water to get it wet and then wash is with a sponge or car wash brush, before it dry's rinse it off, it does not take much water, for a small trailer.
I believe this is a product some Car Dealers promoted on new cars at a high price. I believe there are other products/waxes you can use for less money and equal or better results at less costs. Do a Search on Waxing, polishers, etc. as there have been many posts.
We have Prompt Sunscreens on our windshield and drivers side window and they work great. Takes less than 1 minute to install and no snaps, or ladder needed. We have had ours since 2005 and very satisfied. They come in several colors, ours are gray and match our MH. I would highly recommend them.
3M adhesive remover available at any good auto parts store.it what periods use.it won't hurt paint works best in shade on cooler day.while on and allow to work a few minutes.
X2 works best for all adhesives.
I do not mount mine. I place it on the inside ledge between the outside wall and the tire in the LF or RF wheel opening, whichever is opposite the Sunny side. I then place a note on my steering wheel where the remote is located to remind me to remove it before I leave the CG. This has worked for me for several years now.
The province I live in has no requirement...my toad is without brakes. Given my available carrying capacity, I just don't see the point in risking one of these systems frying my CRV's brakes. If I was towing with a small RV, I'd consider it.
Click here for the reference. Can't get more clear than that.
Question: For all of those that choose not to have a braking system on their dinghy,what happens if your dinghy breaks loose from your MH and careens down the highway? What will stop it? Consider the reason TT's are required to have breakaway systems is to stop any towed TT that becomes loose from the tow vehicle to stop hopefully before hitting another object,which can have deadly results. Never believe that anything towed cannot ever break loose from mechanical failure or accident, even with safety cables or chains,as it has happened in the past.
If this were the case you will in hindsight wish you had a braking system on your dinghy. JMO