That package wasn't offered in 2005. If it has the brake controller on the dash, you have the nice Ford brakes and do not have to purchase an after-market controller. That was an option in 2005 (had it in my 2005 F250), and I can't see anyone getting a King Ranch without that.
Spray in bed liner is the way to go. I prefer Line-X, tough stuff. My older F-250 came with a drop in bed liner from the dealer. It was gone before I left the building, those things cause more problems that they prevent. Water gets under them causing rust, they vibrate and rub off the paint and make noise. Traded it to the dealer for several oil changes. It's probably still laying out behind the service shop in a pile with a bunch of other bed liners. Nobody wants them, except for somebody trying to off-load a pickup with an already messed up bed.
The F150 is not a good platform for a TC. As mentioned before, it has the frame, plenty of power if you get the EB, good brakes, but the suspension is light. I put a 814# box in the back of my F150 (in sig below), and the rear bumper went down a measured 3 inches. Handled badly on the way home with that box. Completely unacceptable. At that point, I wished I had my former 2005 F250 under me. Huge suspension difference in the F150 and the SuperDuty, and not that much difference in price, considering what you're getting.
Interesting. Lowest in-class payload and it gets TOTY. Using an engine that isn't available yet. Almost $60k. Are you sure Motor Trend did this or was it Consumer Reports? Oh wait, it wasn't a foreign vehicle so it couldn't have been Consumer Reports. Then again, it is a Fiat, so maybe it was CR.
Bring on the flak........
Vaseline and silicone jell and some silicone sprays will attract dirt and cause problems down the road. WD40 is not a lubricant, its a water displacer. After you replace the current valve, use something like the so-called "dry" sprays such as garage door lube.
Chipmunks. Those things can get into about any space that a mouse can get into, and they drag in nuts and leave the shells. Got a couple into the crawl space portion of the house after a HVAC repairman left open a hole when working on the air conditioning lines. Chipmunk ate all the insulation around a CATV line that went through that hole also. I sprayed foam insulation in the hole to block it, they thought that tasted good too. Had to evict them again, and used some of that moldable metal that is used on ducts to seal the hole. That worked.
Those critters are destructive.
I also had a 2005 F250 with the 6.0. Just before I got rid of it, it started being hard to start. Turned out to be the FICM. Not cheap. Repair cost at a Ford dealer 3 years ago was $1100. The FICM voltage can be read on the dealer's computer, so they don't have to guess. Most dealers do not have a decent diesel wrench, I had to drive 40 miles to get to a good one, and there are probably 6-7 Ford dealers closer than that. There are aftermarket FICM's available a little cheaper and of better quality, if you can do the repair yourself.
The air is too clean. That allows the wind to blow harder and faster, since there is nothing to slow it down. Something about co-efficiency of drag. It's all the EPA's fault. As proof, look at China. Their air is full of soot and smoke, and you don't hear of bad wind over there, right? Probably hasn't been a 5ver overturned in that country in a long while, if ever.
We have a Samsung with the 10.1" screen. Thought the 7" was a little small for reading webpages and the like. It's wifi only, but if you have a smartphone, you can downloaded an app that makes the phone look like a router, and you then connect to that (very simple) and have wifi everywhere you have phone service. DO NOT PAY Verizon for that service, it's absolutely free by downloading PDAnet+ from Google Play. Use of it applies to your data plan, but that's 2 Gigs which is way more than you'll need in a month unless you're streaming movies over it or something.
The only bad thing about Samsung tablets is the pre-loaded******on them that you cannot remove. I don't know if Apple does this or not.
The 5ver we had prior to our current TT was a KZ 33' with a 12 foot "superslide". We had problems with it after about a year, stripping out the gear on the end of the drive motor. Dealer put a factory new one on, it stripped out after a few months. Another factory gear put on, same thing in a few months. This time the dealer decided to not use the factory gear, as they were a bit soft and didn't engage the rack teeth properly. He had a local machine shop manufacture a gear that fit properly, and that gear lasted several years before we sold the 5ver.
A lot of any problems would be in the design and engineering of the mechanism used to operate the slide. I wonder how many KZ 33 owners had the same problems with that gear. Thankfully we had a great local dealer who stepped up and fixed the problem, and didn't even charge us any labor for the last 2 sets of gears. And the gear was only $60 custom made, which I found amazing.
Since that truck is already 8 years old, you don't have much un-rusted bare metal under there. Any oil sprayed underneath will either coat the already-dirty parts and not do any good (and will just attract more dirt), or coat the already oxidized/rusty parts and not do any good. Petroleum products that come in contact with rubber parts will do harm. That would include the short brake hoses near the calipers, the short fuel line connector at the gas tank, exhaust hangers, etc.
Don't many transmissions have a thermostat that bypasses the cooler until the fluid comes up to a certain temp? Don't know about the 4L60, but the 6-speed in the F150 in sig below must have one. It'll warm up to 195 and stay there despite the outside temp. The only time I saw it get higher was while towing the TT up Wolf Creek Pass in Colorado (10,700 feet). It went up to 204 then, and went back to 195 quickly on the way back down.
The spread between 87 octane gas and diesel is over $1 a gallon presently. Regular gas here is as low as $2.769, most places locally at 2.899. Diesel is $3.899, except for one station at 3.799 and the Pilots at 3.979.
A 1/2 ton diesel pickup will never take off. If you need a diesel, you need more than a 1/2 truck. The $$ spread between diesel and gas, both the fuel and the initial purchase, will never pay off, unless they invent a diesel that gets 40+ mpg in a 1/2 ton truck. Even then, you still have a 1/2 ton truck.
For what you are doing, and if you want to stick with the F150, the 5.0 is the way to go. Much better mileage than the 6.2. Less than 10% of F150 owners get the 6.2, must be a reason for that. If you're going to go heavier, then get the F250 with the 6.2 because the 5.0 isn't available there. If you go F150 and are getting the Lariat trim, the EcoBoost is only a $700 option. If you're sticking with the XLT or FX4, its much more.
I use Battery Tenders Jrs for the mower, Harley, and 2 ATV's. The batteries stay in those units and sit on trickle charge. The battery on the RV is removed, placed on wood or cardboard and not frozen, and put on a trickle charger. Schumacher makes a decent trickle charger also, have one of the older "brick" units that works well. Had a couple from Harbor Freight, they turned out to be junk.
I have osteoarthritis in the left knee. After trying all sorts of other things like braces, wraps, injections, and pain medication to cover it up, I found what has been working for me. A bicycle. I ride 2 miles a day for at least 2 days per week. The pain subsides to about 10% of what it was. If I don't ride for a week, the pain starts coming back. Get on the bike again, pain goes away for a few days. There are a lot of metropark bike trails and converted rails-to-trails around here, I'll see new scenery for a while yet.
If you want to leave on an unattended heat source (and sleeping in the trailer does not define "unattended"), get some insurance on it. Enough to pay for your trailer and everyone else's property that was also damaged. IF everything operates like it is supposed to, it'll be OK. When a safety device fails, bad things happen.
Most RV's have furnaces that are in very close proximity to combustibles. Home furnaces generally are not situated inches from combustibles.
I've been to numerous house trailer fires. They burn fast and are deadly. Almost always caused by a faulty furnace, leaky propane, or electrical at the CB box. Or some idiot using a kerosine heater.
Depending on your RV, some piping containing water is located in areas where the heat from a furnace or other device won't reach, such as under the unit. That would include at least the fresh water tank drain and the low-point drains. Even if you did leave a heat source on unattended (highly un-recommended), it wouldn't do any good there. Many so-called "four season" trailers have minimal heat ducts to the underside of the trailer, most have none at all -just a thin covering.