Just couldn't let you be by yourself on this one. Just got from EBay and already paid for, one 20a MPPT Solar controller @ $14.28 (new)with free shipping. So bingo for me. I now have three panels and three controllers. Not that I needed all three controllers.:B
I like to follow the leader.
Thanks ole fisherman.
Old thread however,
I must report all 5 of the elcheapo PWM and MPPT controllers I have, proved out okay. So, what will you say?
Everyday, Older and Slower- what a blessing!
Ever heard of ebay,.....all for 15 bucks
I disagree w/ others. If your 1 of 2 panels quit, how are you going to know that w/o an ammeter ?
I too like the folks at SolarBlvd. One dollar per watt ain't to bad.
Because you posted this picture in a post some time ago, I ordered what you show. Hope that is okay?
The 15a Solar controller was $15 on Ebay at the time I ordered.
The 'Duel Panel V/A meter w/shunt was $16.99 at the time I ordered.
Now JR, where did you get that nice BLUE cable (panel to controller?) or is that maybe blue tape?
Thanks for all the help I find in your posts.
For my part I would like you to give more info' on Lifan. Perhaps, father of the Honda Chinese K/O generators. And yes, the Lifan 3600i, this inverter gen set should cover most RV needs. Will the dBA rating hold?
I had decided months ago that I would not buy one of the new CPE 3100i watt inverter generators when they became available.
I had previously purchased a pair of 2000 watt inverter generators and the parallel kit. Sorry to have to say it, but I was somewhat disappointed that the 2000i would only provide dependable power to the 1700 watt level. The overload was fast, even after the upgrade of the inverters module. Still, it was a great unit if you were content with 1700 watts max rather than 2000 watts.
The new 3100i did not offer electric start or remote control, two features I had come to appreciate on my 3500 watt, remote controlled electric start unit that ended up being mounted in my TV to provide power to either the camper or truck. Without the RF remote and/or electric start I had to physically get out of the camper or truck and pull a rope. For me, sort of inconvenient.
Then, last week when NASCAR came to town two of my friends that work with Super Gen Products drove down from NY for the race. They just so happened to have a brand new sealed box 3100i with them.
When they came by the house we took the thing out of the box and added the required engine oil and a gallon of gasoline. I turned on the fuel valve and let it sit for a few minutes to allow gas to fill the carburetor float bowl and gave the rope a 1/2 pull. It immediately started.
We rolled the unit down to my camper, disconnected the camper's 50 amp power cord from its storage outlet and plugged in a 50 to 30 amp adapter. The 3100i has a 30 amp TT outlet that is only protected by the electronic overload. The 20 amp standard outlet has a 20 amp circuit breaker. Once connected and running I turned on the 15K BTU air conditioner. The 3100i was in econ mode and barely burped as the A/C compressor locked in. The converter was on but the batteries in the camper were at a full charge. I also had the fridge on electric which added another 370 watts to the load. At that point I filled a cup with water, placed it in the 1100 watt Dometic microwave and hit the start button. The 3100i revved up to compensate for the new added load then settled back down to a flat speed. This thing was sweet!
I noticed that the overload delay was long. Much, much longer than the 2000i. This indicated that the 3100 watts was perhaps attainable. The unit is rated for 2800 watts with a maximum of 3100. While I did not measure the dB sound levels or actual current being drawn I can tell you it was impressively quite.
When it came time to put the thing back in the box for a trip home to NY I began to feel some pain. Being a guy that has an admitted obsession to own most every tool made I just couldn't let it leave. Besides, my tax return was sitting in my bank account still unspent.
I bought it. It belongs to me. Right now I know little more than what I have just written other than it has a 171 cc engine that appears to be more along the design of the Yamaha than Honda GX style engines we are used to seeing on the 3,000 watt Chinese open frame synchronous generators.
Of course, as time allows, I will do a full comparison with this unit and my existing 2000i twins along with the 3500 watt synchronous. You know - sound levels, wattage, fuel consumption, etc. I also intend to do a disassembly of the outer case and photograph the inner workings. This may take awhile as I am not planning on being at the shop much this summer. With the DW now retired as well we have lots of places to go and things to do.
I'm not even sure if I should continue this thread with the 3000i - but it is a product that fits the thread title and purpose. What do you think? New thread or here?
While I may seem crazy with my generator collection, I can assure you all of them are put to good use when we lose power in our rural last-to-restore power service location. When that happens they are all quickly loaned out to family and neighbors so some comfort can be achieved.
I think this generator is going to be a real winner. But, the difference in price between a Tractor Supply sale priced bare bones 3500 watt synchronous genny at $299 on sale or even the regular price of $349 is significant. The suggested retail price of the 3100 is just shy of a grand. But that is still much less than a red, blue or Powerhouse (Magna rebranded) 3100i. Due to the short supply of CPE3100i gensets I suspect the price will stay up there for awhile. Maybe a future offering by Costco or Sam's will be lower - just guessing. But for now, expect to pay near retail.
BTW, I have NO horse in this race and have no financial agreement or connection to CPE or SuperGenProducts.
For many years Professor95 has given us all, the true story of what the Champion products can be expected to produce.
It has been established the C46540 and the C40008 and others in this class will produce no more the 2800 watts continuous. No, if and, and butts. That is it, no more.
SO, now why do we need to revisit what this thread has been about. My Champion C46540 continues dependable service in this rating.
I'm anxious to hear from the Professor more about the NEW Champion 3100i right here on this thread.
I have the same Champion generator. Tried it on a Lincoln wire feed welder. As soon as I tried to strike an arc, it almost died. It could not take the surge.It'd be genuinely helpful if you would tell us the make and model of both units you were coupling. And was the welder 120V or 240V?
By the numbers, a good condition 3500 Watt Champ should easily handle any 120Vac load which is rated for 120Vac/20A household circuit. Mine does.
Just wondering? I looked at your 'Profile' not much info' ~ Others have seemly slipped into threads who have a agenda. I see your posts on '3000w Chinese Gensets info' all concerning Champion. What would you give as the true output of this 3500 Watt Champ you mention?
We have now passed in Tech, the OLD 3000w Chinese Champion with the NEW Chinese Champion 3100 Inverter, its is also called a Genset.
Out with the old and in with the new and up-to-date info' ~ Bring on the next million visits.
Need more info' right here folks on the NEW Champion Chinese Genset.
Today is 'party day' Over one million visits to "3000W Chinese Gensets Info' "
Is this the all time record for one thread?
Get well soon Professor Randy and let's have a one million party.
thanks, JC and jlaustin for keeping us in the know.
We need a lottery.
Which will be first - ten thousand posts or the million views?.:@
Maybe two parties..:B
Lets have the first one today.
JC, we lived to see the day.
Solar at it's best.
Me thinks (RJ) Rich, is in on the ground floor with his set-up. Now the Chinese are following. Wonder what a year from now will look like with Solar Trackers. Solar in general is going to increase by the month. Coming to my home town is a new MFG plant for the new 2D panel for installation in the big Texas money Solar Station. Will employ 600 by next year.
I did measure my results with the 130w panel (it is all proportional, so you can work it out for your 190w) in May at 49N when tracking was moving it three times a day.
Tilted aimed South all day-70AH
Tracking with fixed tilt-90AH
You can see that two of those 56s is 112--more than the 90. But that was in mid-May at 49N
You can't escape the details (the Devil is in the details!)
When the sun is higher you get less difference between tilted and flat. Longer daylight time gives more diff between tracking and not.
With the longer daylight you get more angle the sun goes around where it rises and sets more north of east and west up to 23 degrees more each side in June.
So in March and Sep it is 180 degrees and in June it is 226. Dec gets you only 134. The sun moves around at 15 degrees an hour. (Earth rotation) So June gets you 226/15 = 15hrs, Dec is 134/15 = 9 hrs and Mar or Sep is 180/15= 12 hrs
Tilting is affected by the sun's declination changing that 46 degrees back and forth every six months too. That's 7.7 degrees a month to change your tilt. (about 2 degrees a week)
When you move south for the winter, you get under a higher sun than up north but you still have the shorter days
In summer with more than 180 degrees of sun travel sunrise to sunset, you get the problem that your rig casts a shadow part of the time when the panel is placed on the ground to the south side. This is why I put my first tracker on the roof so it could see all around
Great info' I made another print copy of a BLF post. Keep 'em comin'
Bring an electric heater to Mexico and learn what forty cents US per kWh* means (sixty cents an hour for twenty four hours ain't cheap)
Data Alta Consumo DAC, rate)
The cost of Electricity in Mexico is proof positive the country needs SOLAR and/or LED's now.
You are perhaps one of the men of the hour. From batteries up to 'light up the villages'
No more results for now. Only thing missing is what it does when the batt reaches full (which is kind of important! :) )
Never quite got there in my test. It should drop to Float or just quit charging until batt voltage falls to a low set point and then resume charging and keep doing that to maintain the battery.
The manual mentions a LED going to off when "charging stops" or some such wording, so suspect it will do it that way.
O&S, you could check that yourself easily enough if you have a full battery to put it on. I won't have full batts like that for another couple weeks at least.
Some times I get tired of battery posts BUT then I just open and take a look see. I've used lot's of paper printing out your posts.
At this stage of he game, I'm not able to get around like a young buck in the woods after something. Sooo, these threads are a God send. I by-passed the LED stories for years. Now, Thanks to you guys all, I almost daily also visit EBay. ~~ First Gens,Solar, then batteries and on to controllers and now to LED's Perhaps I need to look for warehouse space.
You started this thread. It just may last forever. Plenty of great stuff has come out of it.
Carry on folks,
charge controllers some even have voltage display.
Controlling the addiction is tough, and $11 is not too much to play this lottery. The prize is questionable though.
Btw, small display with red numbers that you see, says "Work Mode", not "Volts", and 16 is kind of unusual for a battery voltage.
Almot, get over it! We don't all need fancy Rogue controllers.
My little 20a controller I just got for $13 from Hong Kong via ebay works great. It is not a dubious item. I reported on its performance recently in RJ's "Oh no" thread.
And for newbies, it is a lot less expensive when you make a mistake in the wiring or procedure or go over the Voc rating and fry your new controller (which you can do with a $400 controller in the blink of an eye too) when it costs $13 to get a new one and try again.
In fact, you might as well get two in the first place, it is so easy to make a mistake and fry a controller. (Don't ask me how I know that!) In the same category as frying the 10a part of your multimeter switching back and forth between amps and volts--you will fry it eventually. On that, I finally got a better one that has a 10a fuse you can replace. :)
IAW it is more likely IMO that you will fry your controller by mistake than it will fail due to being poorly built.