I have looked all over the internet for someone who sells exterior propane boxes with doors, like the ones that we use on our T/C's.
I really need to move my batteries forward to get my C/G more forward. Right now, I have my batteries in the very rear of my camper and they are installed from the inside of the camper. (Uggggh) I would have enough room if I removed the stove/oven and replaced it with a 3 burner cook top. I could mount a propane box and door right into the wall of the camper. I have even looked for old campers that are ready for the scrap heap and I have found nothing. I would also like a vented door, but if I can't find one, that is a minor modification that could be made.
Rerouting the battery cables will be an easy chore, as they presently go into the rear basement area and under my closet to the Electric panel. The new battery location would also put the cables closer to the electric panel.
This is the outside of what I am looking for:
And I would have this much room to work with once I remove the oven. Even with my two T-105 batteries, it should give me room to move my Extension cords and other electrical stuff to this area. I could add a lock to this compartment, since it would not be used for propane.
I also have to replace my hot water heater this year and that will also help on modifying the wiring. I am thinking that with a propane box, it would be sealed, for the battery vapors, from the cook top.
A tin box would be OK, but a fiberglass box would be great. Any ideas where I can get a box with a door?
btggraphix: You are 100% correct. That truck is illegal with the bumper sticking out and not being lit. DOT regulations still apply to all vehicles on the roads and there is not supposed to be anything extending 12" behind the tail lights OR it must be flagged (during daylight hours) or lit (24 hours).
Back in the 70's and the 80's, I utilized extended bumpers on my old campers. Here is my old 79 F250 that used all 350 suspension, brakes and axles. I extended the frame in the front to carry the generator. the rear also extended, so that I could tow. This photo shows that rear bumper collapsed.
Back when I was working in heavy duty truck shops, we mounted bodies on cab/chassis. I don't ever remember any springs being between the frame and the bed or body. I just looked at the last body builder's guide (1985 Ford) and there is no reference to any type of suspension for mounted bodies. I do remember that the representatives for the bodies that we installed, would specify the type and size of the wood that we used between the frame rails of the cab/chassis and the body.
Most of the time, we just threw a U-bolt around the frame rails / wood spacer and the bottom rail on the body or bed.
As for hauling on large objects, I owned a 4 truck fleet that was hired on to a carrier as part of their heavy haul division. When we hauled Dromedary boxes (basically like having a camper on a flatbed), we had to cross chain side to side and front to rear. I can remember having to take those drop deck trailers being put through some real torsional stress, when delivering the "Droms" to some site that required being off-road. Of course, "Drom" boxes are a little tougher than a camper, but we never used any type of springs or suspensions. As a matter of fact, the worst things to haul were vehicles with suspensions on our drop deck trailers, lo-boy trailers or even flat bed trailers. Even though we also cross chained the vehicles, they would bounce and flex on their own, which caused the chains to loosen and we would have to go back and tighten them.
I believe that if the structure is built secure enough, and mounted to the bed, you should be golden. At this stage of the build, you might want to think about having two rails under the camper and mount it to the chassis similar to the way that commercial bodies are mounted. ... Just a thought.
I just happened to find this video on another thread. At about the 13 minute mark, you will see that they have their camper bolted directly to the truck bed. I also like their jacking system.
Empty, my 8.1L gssser gets about 10.5 at posted speed limits. With the 12' Real Lite (see signature photo), I get about 9.0. These are both averages on long trips. I find that terrain and wind have the most effect on my mileages. I use my GPS for my mileage readings, as I am sitting on 225/70R19.5" rubber and my odometer is off by almost 10%. I also drive at truck posted speeds when carrying the T/C.
IN the fall, when I give the old girl her final winterize, I put a 19' X 25' tarp over the entire camper. I also put several foot lockers in a row, in front of and behind the A/C, to create a peak. I use a leaf blower to clear the snow off my roof. Mine is a gas powered back pack type. I keep a ladder under the T/C and get the snow off the roof area as soon as possible, rather than let it build up.
To bad they did not call me, as I am working on sticking 4 batteries (T-105) towards the front of the frame on the dually. I am light on my front axle anyways, so I thought that it would help get more weight on the front. My 2 batteries are in the very back of the T/C and I would love to move that weight forward, as well as add 2 more.
I learned years ago, unfortunately, that concrete blocks are not good. I had a T/C set up on some property that I owned in northern Michigan and when I got back to it, after sitting for just about 6 months, it had tipped over on one corner because the ground had given way. Wished I had thought about laying down a piece of plywood or had put some planks under the blocks.
Over the years I have tried several camper supports and the best that I have come up with is 4 trailer leveling jacks with two old bang boards across the floor at the front and the back. I have them set at 45 degree angles to each other to add stability. Last year we had 65 mile per hour winds and as I watched the old girl ... with baited breath ... she didn't move at all. I can always re-level them, plus when I travel they fold flat and I can put them in front of the wheel wells in the bed.
Here is a 90-degree 5th Wheel/Gooseneck/Truck Camper Wiring to install the plug inside the bed.
I have a K3500 Chevrolet but it is the long bed and I used a Straight 5th Wheel/Gooseneck/Truck Camper Wiring Kit.
If you really want to go on the cheap, you can try a 7-way 7' extension.
There is a big difference in price as the 90* is way to expensive for my blood.
Having a pet, especially a dog, is up to how they are trained. I trained my dogs with long leads. They were outside only when the DW or I were out. You never can tell about your neighbors and how they would react to a dog.
We had large Shepherd Mixes and there were even times that when we were out and youngsters would wander over to try to pet the dogs. I had them trained with German Commands, and would always tell the children, and anyone else, not to pet our dogs. If we had not been there, who knows what could have happened?
I played that COG game. I had a friend with a several of steel "A" frames (made of rail road rails) for working on trailers. We ran it up on the jacks and let it down on the "A" frames and kept moving the center one, with a piece of 1/2" place 4'X4' steel on it, back and forth until it literally balanced. It only took a couple of hours, but I did not have to tax my pee brain with calculations.
Last summer, I did take off the stickers on the side, so that people would not make comments. I transferred the C/G marks to the floor.
The reason that I did all of this was that the third owner put in the Generator and no one changed the C/G marker.
garryk6, that is a good lookin Avion.
Ticki2: here are just a couple of shots inside the camper.
From the back to the front:
From the front to the back:
One of these days I'll get a little wider angle lense to get a good shot of the Dry Bath. Lots of room for someone to take a shower and someone to be sitting on the throne and not touching each other. One reason that I like this model is that when I sit on the throne, I don't have my knees in my chest.
69 Avion: I just ran out and rechecked my weights from my last weigh ticket that I had, but I had two keyboards and my amp with my road bag on that trip, at an all veteran's reunion where I played with a band that was there. The total weight was 12,020#. The truck GVW is 11,400#, so I was 620# over gross. (oh to the delight of the weight police). The dually empty with a full tank of gas is 7,360#. So that brings the last camper weight to 4,660#, but I have noted that I only had 1/2 tank of H2O (22 gal instead of 44 gal), and one tank of propane (20# instead of 40#).
When I first got this T/C, I removed the awning, to reduce the weight and the cranking assembly was broken. I also had to repair the Right Front Tie down that the P/O had pulled out. Two reasons that the P/O came down on his price.
You are accurate about the C/G being behind the axle. 5 1/2" to be exact. I have my Generator (2.5kw propane) and 2 6D batteries directly in the back. However with all the problems of overweight and C/G way behind the rear axle, the dually sits pretty level. The front is just 1/2" higher from the rear from when it is empty.
The 8.1L still gives me right at 9.5 MPG loaded, so momma and I are not to unhappy.
I'm starting to feel bad that this is not an Avion, but I guess since it is winter and not much work is going on with those beautiful Avions, I won't feel to bad about keeping this post alive.
I revert back to my military days. I use two poncho liners and call it good. I tie them together at the ends and the middle, smooth them out and crawl in. When I am done, I gather them up and throw them in one of the side compartments next to the bed.
I have a bedspread that I put grommets into and use elastic shock cords under the mattress to keep the spread taught. I also have matching pillow covers, to the spread, that lay at the head of the bed.
Been there and done that quite a few times when the power goes out for days. I know of what you speak.
I installed a clean-out on the edge of my house that goes to the main sewer drain in my basement. I even made up a wooden cradle that holds the extra lengths of sewer hose off the ground so that it has the right pitch. That works out great for winterizing and cleaning the tanks.
Good luck on the plumbing job.
That is a nice camper, but I would be afraid it would hang up on a curb when exiting a parking lot.
Actually, no it doesn't. I have a friend in TN that has a driveway up to his property on a paved driveway, or when leaving. I do have to put it in 4Lo to make the climb comfortably, but even the transition from the street onto his 35* up his driveway where it comes off the street, I still have quite a bit of room. (Can you say scary, on the first time up?) Plus it has two switch backs, on his one lane drive and the only thing that I had to watch out for was the rear end swinging near a tree. (He has since removed it ... just for me. I'm so lucky to have a paratrooper brother that would do that for me).
My only downfall is that I can not hook up a trailer, even my 2000# GVW with 150# tongue weight with a motorcycle on the trailer, ,with a home made 72" tongue, I was well over gross and did not take the trailer behind me. Luckily I had a friend that was going my way and he drug the trailer and we camped out in the T/C.
One other time, that caused me to suck up the driver's seat a little, was going across the Dragonstail at Deal's Gap ... at night. I sure am glad that I have over sized sway bars and 19.5" tires. WHEW!
Came across a Real Lite the other day on a Dodge dually . Those things are BIG , the rear overhang was over 60 inches .
Tell me about it. With the bare necessities, half a tank of water and full propane, I am 400# over weight from my factory GVW. I also have a 6 inch bumper on mine and it is a 66" overhang.
Sorry about the hijack.
This thread started back in May of 2011, about the time I was looking for another used T/C and I was still considering Avion. In a way, I wished that I had found one that was not driven hard and put away wet. I too love the nostalgia of the old days when craftsmanship was not a thing of the past. My current 1997 Real Lite is still not up to the standards as the Avion, but it is close.
I still anticipate that there will be more to come on the progress of these fine campers, as I still may wind up with one and I will have some education on how they are put together and the options, which others had upgraded but kept the taste of yesteryear alive and well.
Thanx for the education.
My son has an ASUS Transformer TF101 with the dock and uses it as his desktop when he is over in the sandbox. That saves space in his container style home and does not take up much room. He also runs external storage for his photos and music, along with external drives for input.
I know that he picked it up on the cheap, and may upgrade to the TF300, since the upgrade to ICS on the TF101 was less than acceptable.
I am considering on changing from my old PC laptop to a TF300 for my computer to take with me in my T/Camper or on my Motorcycle, during long trips.
Years ago, when I was real poor, I used Hood Springs from old Chevrolets and Cadillacs (were are talking 50's models), along with turnbuckles that used 1/2" rods and 3/8" links of chain. I used to make my belly bars our of 3/16" - 3" X 3" Angle iron clamped to the under side of the frames. Talk about overkill on a budget.
I'm not much richer, except in experience, but I have now opted for someone else to make the tie-downs and hardware. This year I will be going to the H/J Quick Load Turnbuckles.