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RE: 1999 Ford V10 Loping at Idle (Help)
Indeed!
For anyone else searching for this kind of issue, the parts I found at Napa and came to about $123.00 for the EGR valve and solenoid. Took less than an hour to replace.
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Qualcity
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06/09/13 12:18pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1999 Ford V10 Loping at Idle (Help)
Well I finally got a chance to replace the EGR valve and related solenoid ans she purrs like a happy kitten. WOOT!
Thank you all for the great advice! You all make this place the great site that it is!
Kind Regards,
Allen
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Qualcity
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06/08/13 03:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1999 Ford V10 Loping at Idle (Help)
Will do.
Thanks for the tip Randy!
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Qualcity
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06/02/13 07:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1999 Ford V10 Loping at Idle (Help)
Thanks Scott! Hopefully it is the EGR, and if its not, you all will be one of the first to know. :-)
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Qualcity
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06/01/13 08:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1999 Ford V10 Loping at Idle (Help)
Chock up another vote for the EGR. Thanks jy!
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Qualcity
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06/01/13 08:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1999 Ford V10 Loping at Idle (Help)
Thanks guys!
I guess at the very least I'll have to pull that EGR valve and see if blowing it out will help. I did already pick one up, but at 120.00 I want to try and deduce if that is the most likely problem before I install it. Sounds at least like I'm on the right track. Thanks again gentlemen (and ladies)!
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Qualcity
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06/01/13 07:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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1999 Ford V10 Loping at Idle (Help)
Hey all,
I have a 1999 Four Winds (Thor) 30Q on what I believe is an F53 chassis with the 6.8L V10. It has developed a loping idle and am undecided as to what to tackle first. There is no check engine light and there are no codes on the computer. When cold and warm will sometimes die right after started, but when running the idle lopes below 1000rpm. It just recently started during a trip up to Steamboat Springs, CO from Denver. I am wondering if the engine braking (sometimes up to 4500rpm) or running down a dirt road for about 9 miles might have gummed up the EGR valve?
I have been doing some research on the symptoms on the net and while several point to the EGR valve, serval others indicate the IAC valve, plugs, wires, coils, bad fuel etc...
I wanted to see if anyone on here might have had a similar issue and what your resolution was, or what some of you more mechanically inclined folk might think about it before I go throwing money at it for things that it might not need. Oh yea, I have about 32K on the motor and am about one year into being the 3rd owner on it.
TIA for your input!
Allen
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Qualcity
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06/01/13 06:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Requesting a Double Check on my Winterizing
Good tip with the mudflaps vs wood. I'll have to see if I can source a few.
Always better safe than sorry. Thanks!!
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Qualcity
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10/05/12 09:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Requesting a Double Check on my Winterizing
Thanks for the tips Dale!
I removed all of the liquid drinks, but will have to go back and check on the soaps and such. I plan on parking on some plywood but need to round up another piece. Good stuff and thanks again!
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Qualcity
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10/05/12 05:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Requesting a Double Check on my Winterizing
Thanks all.
I did drive around a lot while the FW tank drain was open to get as much out as possible. I didn't suck any water out of the HW heater, but did leave it open while driving around as we'll and left the cap out of it to let some evaporate
I don't have an ice maker, so one less thing to do with that I guess. Lol
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Qualcity
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10/05/12 01:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Requesting a Double Check on my Winterizing
Check on that ridgeswheels. I don't have an outside drain trap, just the shower head. It's been pinked. Thanks!
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Qualcity
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10/05/12 06:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Requesting a Double Check on my Winterizing
Thanks Chap.
No none of those,but surely a good tip for the next guy who is lucky enough to have those luxuries.
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Qualcity
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10/04/12 08:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Requesting a Double Check on my Winterizing
Thanks Alfred!
Propane is always off, unless I need it.
I'll have to check on the wiper fluid. Never thought about that. THANKS!!
Not sure of the stabilizer since I have about a half tank (35ish gallons) and from all of the debate about sea foam vs Stabil. I figured I would just go run it for about an hour including the genny for about an hour a month and take it for a spin for about 20 miles every other month. Not sure if I would need it. Any input on that as well would be appreciated.
Thanks again!!
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Qualcity
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10/04/12 07:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Requesting a Double Check on my Winterizing
Thanks guys!
I don't have a sprayer hose for the toilet. Just the shower hose which I disconnected from its mount and laid in the bottom of the shower so it would drain and ran pink through it.
Batteries are brand new as of this Spring (converted to 2 6 volts and checked them a week ago. All looks good).
As for the roof seals, they are getting to the end of needing to be replaced, but are still water resistant and no leaks. Probably should do them next Spring. I did crack the roof vents to prevent moisture build up and mold. Both front and back have covers so should be good from any snow.
I don't have an inline filter so should be good there. I blew out the lines and did the antifreeze just to be thorough and since it's the first go with this for me, I wanted to see what was involved with both.
bsinmich- I am happy to hear that you only needed a half gallon to clear your system. I was kinda worried about that.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks to all who have chimed in already! Your input is greatly appreciated as well!!
Qual
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Qualcity
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10/04/12 06:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Requesting a Double Check on my Winterizing
Ad of course I probably should have mentioned what I was Winterizing. Duh....
It's a 1999 four winds (Thor) hurricane 30q. Class A.
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Qualcity
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10/04/12 05:44pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Requesting a Double Check on my Winterizing
Hey All,
Well it looks like we are expecting a cold snap here in Denver in the next day or two so I decided to go ahead and Winterized the system since I had part of a free day available. I would like to see if I missed anything. Here's what I did.
Drained water heater by removing plug from bottom of tank.
Drained fresh water tank. Had like 30 gallons so took awhile.
Blew out the lines with compressed air at 30(ish) psi. Opened all lines and blew out. Then closed all but one and rotated closing and opening valves one at a time till all lines blew pretty much clear.
Bypassed hot water heater valving.
Closed off water tank to pump and hooked up pickup from antifreeze gallon bottle to system. Turned on pump and opened each cold valve till ran pink. Ran each hot water valve till ran pink. Including toilet. Filled each trap (kitchen sink, shower, outside shower, toilet) with antifreeze).
Left fresh water tank drain open and water heater open while I drove to dump station to dump out all water. I used a wand to clean walls of tank while I was dumping black tank. Filled a bit with the wand and drained again. Drained grey tank. Flushed out hosing. And stored. Drove around for a bit and drained tanks again to get all of the water out. Drive to storage and filled drain traps and toilet with antifreeze. I added extra to both kitchen sink and toilet to flow down to the holding tank and down to the dump valves for whatever residual water might be left.
Overall it took about 2 gallons of antifreeze which seems kinda low ( I purchased 4 gallons for the project)
Anything I missed? Thanks!
Qualcity
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Qualcity
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10/04/12 05:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Hatch Locks
I got mine at Ace Hardware. I think they were like 5.95 each and they had a selection with all the same key code.
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Qualcity
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09/06/12 04:18pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Solinoid Clicking
I took the chassis reading at the battery terminals.
Here is what I am doing when this happens. I drive to my house to get the rig ready for a camping trip. I park, keys out, house and chassis circuts are on. I set the seitch for the door step so that it will not retract when the door closes and go in the house. a bit later I go back out and hear the clicking. I walk up front and hear that it's coming from the engine compartment. CLicks on and off about every 3-5 seconds. I wonder if I left something on inside so I open the door and go inside. The steps are already out so they do nothing. I get inside and the clicking stops. I look for anything that might be on, fridge, lights, etc. Nothing is on. I go back outside and the clicking is not going anymore.
This has happened to me 3 times in the past week or two. Once I open the door, it seems to stop whatever the problem is. I can't see what opening the door would be doing. The magnetic door/ stair switch is only a sensor and would not cause the relay to kick in and out I wouldn't think. Strange but true... Any other thoughts?
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Qualcity
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08/07/12 04:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Solinoid Clicking
Thanks LVJ58!
I'm pretty sure I do not have the intellitec. My coach is too old. I have a Magnetek 7400 converter/charger in the back under the bed.
I am a bit concerned that something might have went south a couple of months ago when my DW tried to turn on the AC when I was plugged into 15 amp shore power at the house to cool down the fridge and charge the batts. She threw the breaker at the house, but everything seems to be fine in the coach. Just throwing that out there in case one of you gurus might have some thoughts along those lines for the solenoid cycling. Thanks again!
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Qualcity
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08/06/12 05:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Solinoid Clicking
Chassis battery is reading 12.82 VDC.
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Qualcity
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08/06/12 03:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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