In addition to the above suggestions:
If you are taking short weekend trips, you probably won't carry 1500 lbs, and you probably won't mind pushing the limits of your tow vehicle. If you are travelling cross-country, you will carry a lot more, and you will want more power.
As to your question about depreciation, try this. Go to nada.com, put in a model number that you have looked at, and see what the going price is for a new model. Then check the market price for a one-year old model, then a two-year old model. You will get a feel for how quickly they depreciate.
There are plenty of nice used RV's available.
My first piece of advice would be to get a good realtor. Yes, they take a commission, but they also handle all of the paperwork and other logistical details, including some basic advertising.
Having just sold and bought a place, the internet is the only place to shop or sell. Make sure that your MLS listing includes the details about on-site RV storage. The buyers will find you.
Moving to a new sticks and bricks that already has a paved RV pad with water, sewer, and 30 amp electric. This is really exciting to us as currently we have to store our rig at a storage yard, 15 miles away. We are still a year away from retirement, so the trailer will probably be sitting for several weeks between uses, especially during the NFL season (go Jaguars).
My first question is should I leave the rig connected to 30 amp, with reefer running, or should I just get a 20 amp maintenance charger.
(I will open a new topic for question two)
Copyrighted in 1998, it's a bit dated when it comes to RV features, but the book "Complete Guide to Full-Time RVing" by Bill and Jan Moeller is one of my favorites. It not only covers a lot of issues full-timers face, it talks a lot about basic RV and lifestyle issues. In the end, not only have you learned a lot about RVing, you seem to have made a couple of new friends.
You can probably get it used on Amazon for about $1 plus shipping.
I am sure the videos will help, but you should know the basics.
Your RV will have a fresh water system and a waste water system.
For fresh water, there are usually two options.
1) A "city water" connection which is a hose from the campground faucet to an inlet on your rig. This connection bypasses the fresh water tank. It also supplies the water pressure.
2) A fresh water tank which you can fill before you hit the road. These can hold anywhere from 20 to 60 gallons of fresh water. The water pressure is supplied by a 12-volt water pump. This system is useful when you are not at a campground with water hookups.
Personally, even if I expect to have a water connection, I like a little water in the fresh water tank, in case I want to flush a toilet or something at a rest stop. If you are going to have a water connection at your camp site, you probably don't want to travel with a full fresh water tank. A full 40 gallon tank weighs about 280 pounds.
For the waste water, there are two separate systems, the Grey water tank, and the Black water tank. The grey water is from the shower and sink, the Black water is from the "other" drain in your RV. The dump valve is on the drivers side of the RV. You need a sewer hose to connect from the exterior drain port to the sewer port, whether at your campsite or the dump station. At the dump station, dump the black tank first, then the grey. Dumping is achieved by opening the valve, after you have connected the sewer hose.
You can look for RV shows in your area at www.rvia.org
I think the best thing about the shows for a newbie is that you can look at every kind of RV and get some idea of what you like as well as what you can afford.
Some dealers have only towables, or only drivables. At a show you can see these, plus truck campers, plus pop-ups. The shows usually have an exhibits area as well.