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 > Your search for posts made by 'Rich D.' found 58 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Concrete driveway or pavers for A?

I think you'll find pavers do not work for a MH pad. The ground will settle under the pavers where you drive it and even more so where it sets and the pavers will soon be kicked up at odd angles all over the place. Why is it then that many upscale RV resorts use paver pads for their sites? A proper base is necessary for either concrete or pavers. The good thing about pavers is that they can be easily fixed if there is a problem. With concrete, once it is cracked, it stays cracked.
Rich D. 11/12/13 12:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Remote tire pressure/heat monitors and theft

You sure come across as a fear based kind of guy. I really can't believe how much you folks are concerned about theft of RV specific items! Now if you were to camp at Hunts Point in NYC, I'd be concerned. But the vast majority of the places we go in this country, I don't think you should be concerned! In many cases (mine too) it was not a fear of theft but a desire to be able to check/add air without the nuisance of dealing with add on sensors. If I wasn't purchasing new tires I might have opted for the screw on's but glad I have the internal sensors. Using Alcoa's flow through #001009 double seal valve stem caps makes adding air quick and simple. Simply inflate right through the "cap". The ribbed part (looks threaded) holds the dual foot chuck in place. http://www.alcoa.com/alcoawheels/north_america/en/info_page/accessories_hd_valve_cap.asp
Rich D. 10/02/13 10:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Remote tire pressure/heat monitors and theft

Since I was purchasing tires, I opted for the type that has internal sensors. They work great, are invisible and theft proof. Simply mount the sensor onto the rim with a long hose type clamp. Then mount the tire and balance as usual. The sensor and clamp weigh next to nothing so there is no need for extra balancing. I'm sure there are many good systems. The one I choose was Tire SafeGuard. You can mix the internal sensors with screw on for the toad if you wish. They also make an internal stem mounted sensor. If you have an all steel body vehicle such as mine, be sure to get the "N" type monitor as some of the others may not pick up the signals properly. http://tiresafeguard.com/
Rich D. 10/02/13 08:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 20 Amp won't work when plugged to shore power

Is the 20 amp circuit a GFCI protected outlet? Some inverter/chargers "don't like" GFCI circuits. Try shutting off all breakers in the coach then turn on the ones that you need while someone watches for the error message.
Rich D. 09/23/13 08:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sort-a winterize

Keld, The temperatures in CT do get cold in November but a really hard freeze won't come until later. If you have access to dependable electric power, I'd run a couple of good quality portable electric heaters, one inside and one in the bay area. If you have built in electric heaters, all the better. In NW CT I did this for a few Novembers, waiting for Thanksgiving to head south. If reliable power is not available, do a full winterizing. Don't rely on a "partial" winterizing". Always better to be safe than sorry. Winterizing is cheap, plumbing repairs are not.
Rich D. 09/11/13 07:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Flexable ""Green hose"

They are "OK" if you treat them carefully. If you want a better quality one, buy the DAP black hose with the brass fittings. They are 3/4" so will have better flow. Here is one place to buy, you may find others. Clicky
Rich D. 09/09/13 12:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steering Wheel Covers

Check ebay. They show several 17" steering wheel covers.
Rich D. 09/09/13 12:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Going out in cold temps

Thanks for all the advice already! The tanks and plumbing are in the enclosed belly (that's what you call a basement, I think, right?). But no, the "basement" isn't heated. I've read that you can put a small space heater down there for extra reassurance. Is that correct? So here is what I'm thinking (my husband is the person who does all the maintenance, so bear with me if I don't use the correct language): - Fill the fresh water tank the very last thing before we leave NH - Put some RV antifreeze in the black and gray water tanks - Make sure we've insulated any water pipes we can get to - Have a space heater at the ready to warm the basement if we need to - Make sure the propane tank is full and be prepared to need more propane - Dump the tanks on the way home before we hit Northern temps - Winterize again as soon as we are home (or maybe even before we get home) Does that plan make sense? Thanks! - Michelle Be careful insulating pipes. The insulation can keep heat from getting to the pipes and they will freeze. Also RV antifreeze is designed not to freeze when full strength. As soon as it is diluted all bets are off. Better to keep a heater in the bay to keep above freezing. A little rock salt in the waste tanks will help too.
Rich D. 09/09/13 12:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blue ox cable

The rubber jacket cracks because its not UV protected. If you choose to leave it connected when not in use, you could just slide a cover over it. Maybe a old bag from a camping chair I would agree with you but mine spends most of its life in a bay and it cracked as well. Yes, mine was kept in the garage and cracked too. They were not well made. Hope the new one I just bought is better.
Rich D. 09/09/13 08:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Running generator while driving in the rain

Never heard that before but installations and generator types vary widely. Some are pretty open and others are totally sealed in soundproof compartments. I guess he may be referring to an installation where water may be sucked into the air inlet? I've never seen a post where someone had a problem running rhe generator in the rain.
Rich D. 09/06/13 11:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Inverter questions...

I was with you guys up to a point.... But at some point, reality has to show it's head. We have the same 4 6 volt batteries, and a 2000 watt MSW inverter. The microwave sucks some serious juice. So does my coffeemaker. We regularly run both at the same time off the inverter, in the morning, some 10 - 12 hours after shutting down the genny for the night. At this level of load (and note both these devices are on the same 15 amp circuit, and they do not pop the breaker) the panel shows I am pulling just over 100 amps continuous out of the batteries, and the battery voltage under this load is just over 10 volts. It takes 2 minutes 30 seconds for the microwave to heat my wife's tea. The coffee maker, I let run for a while, it makes 2 cups, I drink 4, so I'm pouring more water in it all the time... After we walk our dogs, we make breakfast, then have our showers. We both use the hairdryer. On the inverter. At this point we will fire up the genny. Under these conditions we let it run on auto, it goes until the charger goes into absorb (~2 hours?) and then shuts down. The batteries are 2008 interstates. No sign of any reason to replace them yet. Inverter/charger is a Magnum, 100 amp charger, 2000 watt MSW inverter, with the optional monitor and auto gen start systems. Note this is my reality. I know the math doesn't quite add up. The first time I saw a 100 amp DC draw on the panel I about died. The 10th time it still made me nervous. The one hundredth time, it just don't bother me anymore. The system works as designed. The batteries are just plain brutes. MSW inverters really do get the job done. Thanks Jim, You saved me from a bunch of typing! A properly sized inverter with a proper battery supply should perform just like you say. If one can only run the microwave for 30 seconds or it needs hours of generator to replace minutes of battery draw, there is a real problem. Either it is not functioning properly, the batteries are undersized/bad, or there is another engineering problem. We use our inverters (two 3700 watt MSW's and a 1500 watt PSW (for refrigerator and electronics) for long periods of time before the battery bank needs charging. The inverters are all 24 volt so the current draws are only half as scary as the 12 volt systems, but still high. 10 Group 4D Lifeline 12VDC, 220 AH AGM's supply the power. I realize this is a very large system but any properly designed system should provide ample power for everyday uses such as coffee pots, hair dryers and microwave.
Rich D. 09/04/13 08:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow pins on toad

I used black PVC pipe caps, chucked them up in a lathe and turned them down until they fit snug, a little silicone on the inside to seal off the road grime. The plus is the black PVC blends in very well with the front of the grille. My Blue Ox Base Plate came with plugs to insert when the tabs are out. Call them and they will sell you a couple. I removed the large pull rings on my tabs and replaced them with 1/4" diameter split rings. Too small to pull by hand to release the tabs. An old icepick with the tip bent into a "U" makes it easy to grab and pull the 1/4" ring when you want to remove the tabs but deters the random theft or vandalism.
Rich D. 09/03/13 09:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Removing decal glue from painted exterior?

Try this pro product: 3M X2 IMO, this is the best, also comes in a pint can available at auto paint suppliers. If all else fails use an adhesive eraser also available at auto paint suppliers or Amazon.com. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/317f55dWozL.jpg
Rich D. 08/29/13 07:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Would you buy an RV with slide outs again?

First and second DP had no slides. This DP now has 3 slide outs, best move we ever made. rebel X2, going back would be like living in a hallway.
Rich D. 08/26/13 11:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coated or Uncoated Aluminum Wheels

Both make both types. Accuride calls the coated wheels "Accu-shield" Alcoa calls theirs "Dura-bright" In my opinion the coated wheels are a lot less work but never shine as brightly as polished aluminum wheels. I like the look of clean, polished, non-coated much better. JMHO
Rich D. 08/23/13 11:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water pressure issues

Most often the small regulators will reduce pressure and at the same time, sacrifice flow. Usually the lack of sufficient flow is blamed on lack of pressure. I personally as well as many others have swapped out these flow reducing pressure regulators for more substantial units that reduce pressure without restricting flow. Look for a unit that will supply at least several gallons per minute at a safe working pressure. Also check the flow at a static rate such as a supply that provides 50 psi along with a regulator set for 50 psi. I have never heard of anyone disappointed with the installation of a Watts, whole house type regulator. They are available at your local big box home improvement store. My last coach came with a Sureflow combination inlet and regulator that barely passed 1 gpm at 40 psi. Replacing it with the Watts in the picture eliminated all flow and pressure problems. The manufacturer switched to large regulators similar to the Watts for newer models. http://i39.tinypic.com/2hwigau.jpg
Rich D. 08/23/13 11:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Residentail refrigerators in motorhomes

There are many threads on swapping out an absorption refrigerator for a residential unit. Variables include running on PSW or MSW inverter power and how many batteries to have etc. The one thing that all agree on is that the swap was a great improvement. Just like you never see a thread about swapping a diesel generator for a propane one (but you do see many swapping the other way), you will never hear of anyone swapping out a residential unit for an absorption unit. Residential refrigerators are safer, cool better, have true o* freezers, don't require defrosting on many models and are better insulated while having more interior space for the same cabinet size. It is relatively easy to secure them in place, they require little or no space behind them and a simple Southco grabber latch on the bottom of the doors provides automatic latching/unlatching when you pull the handle. While mine is a factory install, I know quite a few folks that made the swap. All agree that the residential unit is the only way to go. http://i43.tinypic.com/kb5f13.jpg
Rich D. 08/20/13 09:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Genset crazies!!..??

Hey Sully, Nice to "see" you here! First thing that comes to mind is a fuel starvation problem. Since you changed the fuel filters and ruled that out maybe the suction line or fuel pump is allowing a bit of air into the system or the fuel pump itself is acting up?
Rich D. 08/14/13 09:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: grill connection to propane tank

Finally got the pictures to post Thanks for the tips so far Can't tell from the photos whether the connection is high pressure (tapped before the regulator) or low pressure (tapped after the regulator). If it is high pressure, you MUST install a regulator at the outlet and remove the one on the grill if present. Not doing so would allow the entire hose length to be filled with high pressure propane. Disconnecting the hose with the rapid discharge of propane could "burn" (freeze) any skin that came in contact. Also there is a high chance of explosion if a source of ignition is nearby. That said, they make a quick connect female with a positive shutoff. If the shutoff/connection you have is not that type have a professional install one on your tank and install the male end on a regulator attached to the tank end of your hose. I have had two coaches set up that way with a slide out gas grill. Works great. Shutting off the source while the grill is still running burns off the small amount of low pressure propane left in the hose. Sure, this can be done with a hose filled with high pressure propane but it will take a very long time and forgetting to do it could prove catastrophic.
Rich D. 08/09/13 07:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Storing bikes inside

We have good bikes that we don't want to mount on any outside rack brackets. Anyone make a mount to go on a slide type tray in one of the basement storage bins? Or anyone build something where the front wheel is removed and the frame is clamped into something?? Last coach I made a rack for a luggage bay by using home made bolt downs similar to those used on a rooftop car rack. Back tires fit into a notch on the "wall" covered with matching carper and the bolt-downs fit over the handlebars. The front tires were removed and the bikes (Cannondale trail bikes) inverted and tightened down. 30 seconds in or out. The front wheels slipped into a home made box carpeted to match the luggage bay. This coach has all roll out trays so I simply lay the bikes in a tray and put furniture moving pads in between them. Front wheels are still removed and tucked into the pads.
Rich D. 08/05/13 08:06am Class A Motorhomes
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