I think you'll find pavers do not work for a MH pad. The ground will settle under the pavers where you drive it and even more so where it sets and the pavers will soon be kicked up at odd angles all over the place.
Why is it then that many upscale RV resorts use paver pads for their sites? A proper base is necessary for either concrete or pavers. The good thing about pavers is that they can be easily fixed if there is a problem. With concrete, once it is cracked, it stays cracked.
You sure come across as a fear based kind of guy. I really can't believe how much you folks are concerned about theft of RV specific items! Now if you were to camp at Hunts Point in NYC, I'd be concerned. But the vast majority of the places we go in this country, I don't think you should be concerned!
In many cases (mine too) it was not a fear of theft but a desire to be able to check/add air without the nuisance of dealing with add on sensors. If I wasn't purchasing new tires I might have opted for the screw on's but glad I have the internal sensors. Using Alcoa's flow through #001009 double seal valve stem caps makes adding air quick and simple. Simply inflate right through the "cap". The ribbed part (looks threaded) holds the dual foot chuck in place.
Since I was purchasing tires, I opted for the type that has internal sensors. They work great, are invisible and theft proof. Simply mount the sensor onto the rim with a long hose type clamp. Then mount the tire and balance as usual. The sensor and clamp weigh next to nothing so there is no need for extra balancing. I'm sure there are many good systems. The one I choose was Tire SafeGuard. You can mix the internal sensors with screw on for the toad if you wish. They also make an internal stem mounted sensor. If you have an all steel body vehicle such as mine, be sure to get the "N" type monitor as some of the others may not pick up the signals properly.
Is the 20 amp circuit a GFCI protected outlet? Some inverter/chargers "don't like" GFCI circuits. Try shutting off all breakers in the coach then turn on the ones that you need while someone watches for the error message.
The temperatures in CT do get cold in November but a really hard freeze won't come until later. If you have access to dependable electric power, I'd run a couple of good quality portable electric heaters, one inside and one in the bay area. If you have built in electric heaters, all the better. In NW CT I did this for a few Novembers, waiting for Thanksgiving to head south. If reliable power is not available, do a full winterizing. Don't rely on a "partial" winterizing". Always better to be safe than sorry. Winterizing is cheap, plumbing repairs are not.
They are "OK" if you treat them carefully. If you want a better quality one, buy the DAP black hose with the brass fittings. They are 3/4" so will have better flow. Here is one place to buy, you may find others.
Thanks for all the advice already! The tanks and plumbing are in the enclosed belly (that's what you call a basement, I think, right?). But no, the "basement" isn't heated. I've read that you can put a small space heater down there for extra reassurance. Is that correct?
So here is what I'm thinking (my husband is the person who does all the maintenance, so bear with me if I don't use the correct language):
- Fill the fresh water tank the very last thing before we leave NH
- Put some RV antifreeze in the black and gray water tanks
- Make sure we've insulated any water pipes we can get to
- Have a space heater at the ready to warm the basement if we need to
- Make sure the propane tank is full and be prepared to need more propane
- Dump the tanks on the way home before we hit Northern temps
- Winterize again as soon as we are home (or maybe even before we get home)
Does that plan make sense?
Be careful insulating pipes. The insulation can keep heat from getting to the pipes and they will freeze. Also RV antifreeze is designed not to freeze when full strength. As soon as it is diluted all bets are off. Better to keep a heater in the bay to keep above freezing. A little rock salt in the waste tanks will help too.
The rubber jacket cracks because its not UV protected. If you choose to leave it connected when not in use, you could just slide a cover over it. Maybe a old bag from a camping chair
I would agree with you but mine spends most of its life in a bay and it cracked as well.
Yes, mine was kept in the garage and cracked too. They were not well made. Hope the new one I just bought is better.
Never heard that before but installations and generator types vary widely. Some are pretty open and others are totally sealed in soundproof compartments. I guess he may be referring to an installation where water may be sucked into the air inlet?
I've never seen a post where someone had a problem running rhe generator in the rain.
I was with you guys up to a point....
But at some point, reality has to show it's head.
We have the same 4 6 volt batteries, and a 2000 watt MSW inverter.
The microwave sucks some serious juice. So does my coffeemaker. We regularly run both at the same time off the inverter, in the morning, some 10 - 12 hours after shutting down the genny for the night.
At this level of load (and note both these devices are on the same 15 amp circuit, and they do not pop the breaker) the panel shows I am pulling just over 100 amps continuous out of the batteries, and the battery voltage under this load is just over 10 volts.
It takes 2 minutes 30 seconds for the microwave to heat my wife's tea.
The coffee maker, I let run for a while, it makes 2 cups, I drink 4, so I'm pouring more water in it all the time...
After we walk our dogs, we make breakfast, then have our showers. We both use the hairdryer. On the inverter.
At this point we will fire up the genny. Under these conditions we let it run on auto, it goes until the charger goes into absorb (~2 hours?) and then shuts down.
The batteries are 2008 interstates. No sign of any reason to replace them yet.
Inverter/charger is a Magnum, 100 amp charger, 2000 watt MSW inverter, with the optional monitor and auto gen start systems.
Note this is my reality. I know the math doesn't quite add up.
The first time I saw a 100 amp DC draw on the panel I about died.
The 10th time it still made me nervous.
The one hundredth time, it just don't bother me anymore.
The system works as designed.
The batteries are just plain brutes.
MSW inverters really do get the job done.
Thanks Jim, You saved me from a bunch of typing! A properly sized inverter with a proper battery supply should perform just like you say. If one can only run the microwave for 30 seconds or it needs hours of generator to replace minutes of battery draw, there is a real problem. Either it is not functioning properly, the batteries are undersized/bad, or there is another engineering problem. We use our inverters (two 3700 watt MSW's and a 1500 watt PSW (for refrigerator and electronics) for long periods of time before the battery bank needs charging. The inverters are all 24 volt so the current draws are only half as scary as the 12 volt systems, but still high. 10 Group 4D Lifeline 12VDC, 220 AH AGM's supply the power. I realize this is a very large system but any properly designed system should provide ample power for everyday uses such as coffee pots, hair dryers and microwave.
I used black PVC pipe caps, chucked them up in a lathe and turned them down until they fit snug, a little silicone on the inside to seal off the road grime. The plus is the black PVC blends in very well with the front of the grille.
My Blue Ox Base Plate came with plugs to insert when the tabs are out. Call them and they will sell you a couple.
I removed the large pull rings on my tabs and replaced them with 1/4" diameter split rings. Too small to pull by hand to release the tabs. An old icepick with the tip bent into a "U" makes it easy to grab and pull the 1/4" ring when you want to remove the tabs but deters the random theft or vandalism.