Sorry to hear of this. I did a search on some of his posts. This quote below is one story which caught my eye. He was a man who knew how to relax. I know a lot of people who could take a lesson or two from him. I'm sure there are many folks in this world who are better off from having known him. Even more blessed are his family members and those privileged to call him "friend".
...Used to live on Lake Wylie in S.C.. Would come home after a week on the road, get up at 5 a.m. on Saturday morning, grab my rod, a folding chair, transistor radio w/headphones and head for the dock. I'd drift in and out of sleep during those quiet cool mornings as the eagles fished the lake. Relaxation was the ONLY reason for the adventure. Work was over. Momma and the kids wouldn't get up at 5. Nor would they make demands on me when I had a rod in my hands. It was like the "holy grail"... LOL.
One morning in the early spring, I had drifted off while tuned into an easy listening music channel, when a big burly game warden tapped me on the shoulder. As I pulled the ear plugs, I heard him ask for my fishing license. While fumbling from a dead sleep to my wallet, he asked if I was getting any bites. "No Sir", I said. "What are you using for bait?", he asked. "Nothing" was the reply. I reeled in the line which sported a small lead weight and a cork, sans the hook. After viewing my license and not finding any bait, hooks or lures in my possession, it got right funny to him. For the rest of the spring, summer and fall, he'd smile and wave as he passed the dock. He understood!
Thanks for posting your solution. I missed your original post, but I had a problem with my Workhorse Chassis when towing. My magnetic add-on lights weren't working properly (the directionals weren't blinking as bright as they should, and the lights didn't look as bright as they should) and the cruise control on the motorhome didn't work when towing. It thought it was a bad ground/bulb/socket/etc. and checked all of those on the lights. All looked good.
I tracked it down to the Workhorse supplied 4-wire connector on the motorhome near the hitch. One of the wires at the connector had an open in it. Apparently, when the lights were connected, it set up some strange feed-back signal that messed up the cruise control. I'm guessing it thought the brakes were on. You wouldn't think an open would cause that type of problem, but it did. When the lights weren't connected, it worked fine. :h
Changed the connector, no problems since. Hopefully your problem is fixed. But if not, change out that 4-wire connector on the motorhome.
No problem with leaving it as it is. I would recommend shutting off the main valve, though.
My personal preference, though, is to try to have it near filled, just in case we need to use the rig during the winter months. If I don't need it, then it's all ready to go in the springtime. A few years back we had a freak blizzard at the end of October and power was out for the better part of a week. We were able to do our cooking in the motorhome using the propane stove and microwave (using the generator). Plus the propane keep the motorhome refer cold.
But no harm will come from it being left at any level of fill.
Hmmm...no one else answered. I believe the fuel pump is located in the gas tank, so if someone has their head down near the tank in reasonably quiet surroundings, you can usually hear the pump run.
The fuel filter should be somewhere between the fuel tank and the fuel injector rails on the engine. I believe it does require special tools and the fuel pressure needs to be relieved before attempting to remove the filter. Hopefully someone who has actually done this can lend more input. Perhaps you could ask the question in the
Perhaps this link or this link in the Class C Forums might give you some ideas. On Edit: Found this one too!
If not, you might want to post your question in the Class C Forum where someone is sure to have a rig similar to yours.
Has the fuel filter ever been changed?
Your comment "It seems when we get down to a quarter tank, we have this problem. That is very characteristic for generators, as the fuel pick-up for generators is usually situated that it will not supply fuel below about 1/4 tank. Just to clarify, you're NOT talking about the generator here, correct?
Is this on a Ford or Chevy chassis? I seem to recall that some Fords did have fuel pump issues somewhere in that era, but not sure if that was on the E-350/450 chassis or the Class A F-53 chassis.
With an ear near the fuel tank, you can usually hear the fuel pump run when the ignition key is put into the "Run" position, right before starting. Can you hear the fuel pump run?
I don't know much about your specific rig so I'm just shooting in the dark. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in.
P.S. One other thing that occurred to me. If you routinely only keep the tank "half full" or less, there is a good chance that over the years condensation & corrosion have built up in the tank and may be impeding fuel flow. Most recommend that the fuel tank be kept as near full as possible, especially when stored for long periods (and "double especially" if you're in a climate that has cold winter temps). Keeping the tank less then full encourages condensation since there is a larger air-space in the tank.
During our annual winterizing routine, our water pump worked fine for shower and toilet and while pumping to the bathroom sink, it just stopped. Our coach battery is bad, stopped putting the step out, so we assumed that is completely dead and that is why the water pump stopped. Then we start the engine and the entire RV will not start! We have had this issue in the past but it ran fine all summer, no issues. Does a bad step/coach battery effect power to the fuel pump too?
Hi, and welcome to the forums. :)
It might be more helpful if you could give us the year, make & model of your RV. But lacking that, I'll do what I can.
I think I agree with you that your coach battery is dead, which is why the steps and water pump do not work. If you're plugged into shore power, you should have some DC power from the converter. However, if the converter is not working, then the coach battery won't charge.
"Then we start the engine and the entire RV will not start!" Did it start or not? Did you mean "Tried to start the engine....?"
If it didn't start, then most likely the chassis battery is dead as well. There should be an isolator between the two batteries that prevents them from both discharging simultaneously. However, if the isolator isn't working (or isn't there), then the batteries are most likely connected together in parallel and both will run down. Normally, a dead coach battery won't keep the chassis engine from starting. And vice versa, a dead chassis battery should not run down the coach battery. Most rigs (I thought) have an emergency start switch which will "parallel" both batteries so if one battery is low, you can use the other to "jump it" to get started. Again, if that circuit isn't working properly, or someone rewired things, the batteries might always be in a parallel connection with no isolation.
If the chassis battery runs down, that will keep the fuel pump (assuming it's an electric fuel pump) from operating, as well as the starter and usually any electronic engine control module(s). The obvious result is that the engine won't start. But a low coach battery should NOT keep the chassis fuel pump from running UNLESS someone did some rewiring from the factory configuration.
Like MEXICOWANDERER asked, do you have any tools & know-how to trouble-shoot the systems?
At the very least, I would think a decent battery charger would be helpful for getting a charge into the batteries. Before charging the batteries, check to make sure they have the proper level of water in them. If the cells are low/empty on water, the batteries won't hold a charge.
Hi, welcome to the Forums.
In answer to your questions: Your boys will probably fit in the bunk bed space. Resale value is hard to predict. If you want that floorplan, most likely, someone else might in the future. It just depends how long you want to wait until someone comes along and how badly they want it.
If resale is a prime concern, then I'd opt for a more main-stream floorplan (full or queen bed in back, overhead bunks up front) and a slide. You'll probably be at around 28' for so.
Here's my opinion. I just looked up the floorplan for that motorhome. In my opinion, that's too small of a rig for a family of four (plus dog) and a year long trip. I really don't think you'll have the storage space you'll need for clothes, tools, cooking supplies, food and you'll be extremely cramped on days where you'll be cooped up inside due to travel/weather. Unless your dog is of the size that easily fits into your pocket :) I'd recommend something with a slide to give extra floor space. Stepping over the dog gets old.
To be honest with you, for a one year trip and your size crew, I wouldn't recommend anything much smaller than 35', either a Super C or even a gas Class A.
The larger rigs will have larger storage bays outside, more cabinets/storage inside, and larger fresh/black/gray holding tanks. The latter is really convenient if you should be camping at an area without full hookups. The holding tanks on the 23BB would last you two, maybe three days IF you're very conservative with water usage. Most people aren't. We can go 5 days on the holding tanks in our rig.
There will be issues with getting around when you're camped, but you'll have the same with the small C. Once you're set up at camp, you don't want to have to break camp & drag the family around every time you need to go out shopping. And the less you can store, the more likely you'll be shopping. So you can either tow your vehicle behind you, or rent one at your destinations.
We've been on the road for 2 months at a time in our rig and it worked really well. We're a larger family than yours, but knowing what I know, I wouldn't even think about the trip you're planning with anything smaller than our rig.
I do envy you for planning such a trip. We're hoping that one of these year's I'll be able to take a long enough leave of absence to do the same.
Keep asking questions here and we'll do our best to help.
P.S. To put my post in perspective, I'll let you in on a little secret. :) When I first came to these forums, we were planning on getting a small hybrid trailer to pull behind our Honda Odyssey. Instead, we ended up with a 36' Class A and tow our Odyssey behind it. Thanks to the terrific experience & insight of the folks on this board, we ended up buying the right rig the first time. We did our research (about 2 years worth) and looked at all combinations between where we started and what we ended with, but in the end it was all worth it. We have yet to find a floorplan I like more than ours (dual slide/dual sofa). Well...there was that 45' Prevost Bus....but that'll have to wait until the kids are grown up...and I hit the lottery! :)
What Alan_Hepburn stated is true. To simplify things, you want a compressor in which the "cut in" pressure is greater than the maximum pressure you want to put in your tires, or else you will be faced with the problem you experienced.
Since that number isn't always stated in the specs, a good rule of thumb is that the cut in pressure is usually 20-25 psi less than the cut out pressure (maximum psi). Plus you want to maintain a pressure differential from the tank to the tire as there will be pressure loss through the air hose & chuck.
So taking your 100 psi desired number, adding 25 psi for additional cut-in pressure plus another 10 psi for tank/tire differential, I'd recommend looking for an air compressor with a maximum psi rating of at least 135 psi. 150 psi would be even better.
Once you have sufficient pressure, than you can shop by the volume ratings CFM (or SCFM). The higher the SCFM number, the faster the compressor will be able to fill your tire at a given pressure.
My 5 hp 30 gal. home compressor with it's 110 psi max/90 psi cut-in would not fill my motorhome tires through the length of air hose I needed to use. IT had PLENTY of volume (SCFM) but didn't have the pressure to push the air from the tank into the tires. I bought a smaller Husky model with a 135 psi max. that I can bring to each tire and it works fine. I air them up to the max of 110 psi for the winter, then reduce to the proper pressure in the spring when we put the RV back in service. The compressor fits nicely into a storage bay.
I also use this compressor to blow out the air lines for winterizing. (I only use the pink stuff down the drains and the commode.) Because of this, I chose an oilless compressor as I didn't want it spraying oil into my water system. Something to think about if you're going to use this compressor to winterize as well.
You should be able to find a suitable 120VAC compressor which meets your needs for somewhere in the $100-$125 price range.
As stated, you need to put a resistance in parallel with the sending unit to lower the resistance.
HOWEVER, I would advise against doing this as this will result in a non-linear pressure vs. resistance relationship. So if you get it to read the "normal" value, it will be off as the sending unit resistance changes. How much it will be off is difficult to tell without knowing the exact resistances and the pressure vs. resistance curve of the sending unit.
Will the difference matter? Hard to tell. It's your engine. If it were mine, I'd want to know. I'd probably opt to keep it the way it is knowing that it's reading "high".
Actually, I'd probably continue my quest for the proper sending unit. It must be out there someplace.
Have traveled through overpasses that indicated 12.1 feet.
Just a grammatical correction, but, I DO HOPE you mean you "travelled UNDER overpasses that indicated 12.1 feet." LOL :)
There're these videos from 11foot8.com to bring the point home, especially this one of a Fifth Wheel and it's antenna/air conditioner. :)
To the OP, my Class A has a placard on the dash listing it's height as 12'. I slowly proceeded under an underpass marked 12' 6" and heard the CB antenna scrape the underside of the bridge. That was close enough for me! LOL I do believe that the published height should include the air conditioner if the A/C is considered standard equipment. If it's an option, then you'd definitely want to know whether or not it's included.
Practically, you should probably always give yourself some wiggle room, just in case they repaved the road and forgot to update the signs. :)
It's the ethanol. Forget the government's propaganda about a 1 or 2% decrease in mpg due to 10% ethanol. Most people who actually keep track will confirm an actual real-world decrease of about 8-10%. On our rig, my mileage will magically increase from around 7 mpg to near 8 mpg when I get the rare opportunity to put real gas in the tank. You can see it on the in dash display and the Scan Gauge display. And I've noticed about the same on each of our cars as well. Here in the northeast, it's pretty tough to find the good stuff.
When we first got our rig, I would occasionally see as high as 9 mpg not towing the Odyessey on mostly level roads in the Spring/Fall with no dash AC or generator running. Towing, with dash AC and generator, it would dip down to between 7.5 - 8 mpg. Now that the only choice here is ethanol, all of those numbers are down consistently just about one 1 mpg.
So, yes, it's the ethanol.
True, but it seems that a leveling system using manually pumped bottle jacks would be inexpensive and popular for smaller RVs. Harbor Freight sells 20 ton bottle jacks for $40. 4 of those, modified for quick extension and frame mountable, and you have a leveling system for under $500. I'd buy one 'cuz I'm too unskilled to make one and too cheap to pay $3000 for an automatic version.
I think you idea is one of those which sounds simple on the onset, but as you think about more of the details, the complexity & expense grows.
First of all, those 20 ton bottle jacks only have about a 7" hydraulic travel, there is a screw adjustment on the top of about 3". So, the fundamental problem is that I don't think there is enough travel in those jacks for this application. I have jacks similar to those, and they jack up SLOW because of their high weight rating. For a lighter RV, 10 ton jacks would be sufficient, and probably raise quicker. By the way, for about $80 Harbor Freight sells jacks which can be operated under air pressure, which would be easier to implement, providing one has an ample air compressor.
Other issues: I think most of those jacks rely on gravity/weight of the load to retract. A spring could be added, but that adds to the complexity and expense. A larger foot would have to be added as well.
Then a heavy duty bracket has to be fabricated to mount to the jack, and then to the RV. All of this should be rated to handle strength of the jack, which means some pretty heavy stuff.
As luck would have it, I'm currently doing some repair work on one of my hydraulic jacks on my class A and I lifted the rig with the bottle jacks. There is something a bit unnerving (to me) lifting this much vehicle with $40 jacks. LOL I took consolation knowing that even if the jacks failed and the RV fell, I had sufficient clearance so I wouldn't get squished. Probably not true on a Class C. And I was on a solid concrete pad, I don't think I'd want to do the same on an unlevel dirt/gravel pad. Too scary. (Yes, once the rig was lifted I put it on jack stands.)
The idea would make an interesting project for someone good with metal fabrication, but probably too much work and cost for a mass-produced product. But I think for most people, it would be more of a pain in the neck to extend/retract the jacks (one at a time) then to just drive up/down on blocks.
I'd be interested in hearing if anyone did actually try this, though, to see what their experience was.
I have a different rig, so my experience might not help you at all. But just in case....
Do you have electric brakes on the end of your slide motors? If so, try disabling/removing the brake and see if the slide goes in any easier. Our main slide motor was getting sluggish, until it reached the point that it would not bring the slide in. After some diagnostic work, it became apparent that the slide controller was not disengaging the brake when the slide was operating. So the motor not only had to lift the main slide over the "hump", it had to do so with the brake on!
Good Luck and let us know what you find out.
Are these 120VAC or 12VDC outlets? If they're 120VAC then first look for a tripped GFCI outlet, then check the breaker panel.
Since it's on a slide, there is a possibility the wire connector from the chassis got disconnected to the slide or a wire in the wire harness broke. The slide wire harnesses are usually designed to withstand the movement of the slide, but it's possible something either got disconnected or a wire broke. It's also possible wires got pinched in the mechanism and might be creating a short, which should result in a blown breaker or fuse.
GENECOP, you're drinking the government Kool-Aid in believing that just because they (NHTSA) says something, it must be true.
My class A has steel C beams which are just about head-level for anyone riding in a car or van. I'll take those beams and an extra 10,000 lbs. of weight travelling in my direction over airbags & crumple zones. :) You don't have to be a rocket scientist, but having a fundamental understanding of physics helps. :)
Crashing into a wall, maybe the C would be better, maybe not. But the majority of those collisions are due to driver in-attentiveness. I know my abilities and will take my chances there. But in a collision with another vehicle of which I have no control over, mass is your friend. You want as much mass heading in your direction as possible. Simple conservation of momentum. But shhhhhhhhh! Don't tell NHTSA we know that. :) Their tests are fine, as long as you run into a wall or a smaller vehicle. By the way, does NHTSA test how well the cab of that class C holds up when 10,000 lbs. of RV pushes forward into it from the back? Just wondering? And I'm not sure if those crumple zones up front are also designed to perform optimally under that extra weight. I thought the tests were done on the standard van chassis, which is much lighter than the majority of RVs on the road.
But if they're so much better, in your opinion, why is it that no crash data exists to substantiate that claim? I can't say for certain my A is safer either because no data is available to substantiate that. So, until such data is available, you have your opinion, and I have mine. Just don't state it as "fact". It's not.
As for service, I still don't see what would be easier for me to service on a C than my A. My A is as easy to work on as our cars for routine stuff. In fact, because it's higher off the ground, it's actually easier to do a lot of things underneath 'cause I can just crawl under without even jacking it up.
Class C safer to drive and easier to service...
Do you have any statistics to support the "safer to drive" comment? I see it posted here a lot, but I personally differ with that opinion.
Easier to service...depends. It's probably easier to get others to service a C than an A, but I do my own service and so far routine service has been pretty straightforward on my gasser A.
rvhappy2010, don't rule out anything. Take your time and do your research. It took us about 2+ years of research to realize that our best solution was the class A gasser in our signature. We started out looking at small hybrids to tow behind our minivan and ended up with the class A and tow our minivan behind it! :) Nine years later we're still very happy with our purchase. Floor plan is probably one of the key factors. We had 4 children and the "conventional wisdom" was that "A's are for couples, C's are for families". We decided not to follow stereotypes and are very glad we didn't. For us, our dual slide, dual sofa layout is perfect. It gives us plenty of living space and the storage space and capacity to carry want we need for extended trips.
Don't rush, and feel free to ask many questions here. It's the comments and experience of the members here which allowed us to make the right decision the first time.
I always shut off the water when we leave.
I have a question: For all of you who shut the water off, do you make sure to shut off the water heater too? It would be bad if the leak caused the hot water tank to drain and then the electric and/or gas heater kicked in.
Yeah..."paranoid" might describe me. :)
Nice work & nice pictures. I've been toying with doing something similar "one of these days". A few years back, our refrigerator seemed to be struggling to keep things cold, so I rigged up a muffin fan on the bottom blowing upward. That seemed to help. It ran all summer, then I disconnected it in the Fall. The next year (and ever since) the refer seems to work fine without it, so I have not really thought much about making a permanent solution. But most of our camping is done here in the Northeast part of the country, so the temps are a bit more moderate than folks experience down south. :)
I do have one concern with your design, but might not be a big deal. I was wondering how those fans effect the cooling operation of the refer if they aren't running. For instance, suppose there is a failure somewhere and the fans aren't drawing air up the coils. I'm just wondering if the stationary fan blades would impede the normal passive air flow and cause other problems with the cooling unit. If that's the case, then maybe using just 2 fans might be better as there would be better airflow if the fans weren't running?
Probably a non-issue, I guess it's just my suspicious nature of relying too heavily on $16.00 worth of Chinese made fans! LOL
Thanks for the post.