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 > Your search for posts made by 'RoyB' found 2812 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: where to put volt/amp meter in circuit

Let me know if it works - I like the meter readout and the price is right. I might try it on my 200A setup in my OFF-ROAD POPUP for monitoring 4 batteries... I see the ebay seller has several different current meter models for sale... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/20/14 01:46pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: where to put volt/amp meter in circuit

My guess would be disconnect the RED WIRE line coming to the converter from the battery and connect it to the input + as shown in the below ebay diagram for the DCN 9030C unit. The - connection would go to frame ground. Then connect a new short lead from + OUTPUT terminals to the converter terminal that used to connect to the battery POSITIVE terminal. The - lead goes to frame ground again. http://i.imgur.com/tLFZyr4.jpg height=200 This DCM9030C meter has to go in series between the converter and the battery. This means your total current load goes thru the meter panel which is only rated for 30AMPS I guess it is... When your converter is producing charge current it is already connected up like the CHARGING diagram shows on ebay so I assume it work just fine with no changes anywhere. To me that is alot of current to be running through those 10-32 screw heads on that terminal board??? Must be OK as that is the way the DCM9030C simple diagram shows from the ebay page. I would make sure there is an 30AMP IN-LINE FUSE right next to the battery terminal. I'm pretty sure your battery is capable of producing more that 30AMPS in the case of a short circuit. It should have this in-line fuse there already just check and make sure. I would just ignore the other battery leads that will also be connected to the same positive battery terminal. One is for emergency brakes and another maybe for your slide I see you have. Those other Positive + battey leads will just not be monitored... This is pure guessing hehe... If it blows up on you I know nothing as Sergeant Schultz says on METV Hogans Hero's I would run all of this by the ebay seller and gets his comments back... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/20/14 01:39pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: where to put volt/amp meter in circuit

I see this item is available on EBAY with SELLER elite.element Perhaps you might want to contact them for additional info on how to connect the unit up... The write-up says it has a built-in SHUNT so probably just connects between the converter and battery bank like shown in their simple application. Perhaps the INPUT goes to BATTERY Connection and OUTPUT goes to Converter connection... This would not be wise in my battery connections where I deal with up to 60AMPS or so of DC Current. My 1500WATT INVERTER is fused at 175AMPS DC current Not real sure what you have here.... May be too small values to use in your RV setup. DCM 9030C Just my thoughts Roy Ken
RoyB 09/20/14 12:57pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Tent Camping In Virginia & Northern North Carolina?

We usually go to the Shenandoah Natl Park from here in Northern Neck for tent camping. Also the camp grounds associated with the BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY were actually mostly built for the tent campers... One of my favorite tent camping sites is SHERANDO LAKE just off the Blue Ridge Parkway near Lyndhurst - Waynesboro area. Closer to you we go to the Westmoreland State Park alot as well. This is my home camp ground I guess... Being just 30-40 miles away I like to go here and test out some of my OFF-ROAD POPUP TRAILER mods I do from time to time. They have a section set aside just for tent campers there... If I couldn't have a open fire at the camp grounds I most definitely be looking somewhere else for sure. That goes hand in hand with Camping out for us... Of course there are times when it is really dry with little or no rain where the camp grounds will ban open fires. We really haven't camped much in the Norfolk or Chesapeake areas.. Some of the National Forest camp site in NC south of Cherokee are really big time tent camping sites. Smoky Natl Park at Gatlinburg is same thing.. They really are more for tent camping than anything else. ELKMONT comes to mind... It is full of Tents and POPUP trailers every time we go there... We have also tent camped in OUTER BANKs NC as well... Forget the names of the sites... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/20/14 12:14pm Tent Camping
RE: Inverter out -- extension cord?

Based on SMKETTNER's comment I will remove my extension cord install comments of running thru wire-mode products. Roy Ken
RoyB 09/20/14 10:22am Tech Issues
RE: WFCO Please Describe The Operational Malfunctions

My original 30AMP ELIXIR Converter went up in smoke after a few months of use when the dealer bypassed the main 30AMP Circuit Breaker and used it to control an optional Air Conditional install. After all the smoke cleared I replaced the whole thing for WFCO 8900 series Power Distribution Center with a WF8945 Converter/charger unit. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41bWYhzHcZL._SL500_AA300_.jpg height=200 http://tweetys.com/images/products/detail/554711_grp_silo.jpg height=200 The changeover didnt really take all that long but did have to re-run some 120VAC romex as well as some 12VDC lines that ended up to short to reach the terminal lugs. It really was a blessing as now I have room for five full size 120VAC Circuit breakers which can be divided up to at least one full size and eight additional half size breakers. It also has slots for eleven 12VDC ATC type fused circuits on the 12VDC Distribution side. Turned everything back on after install and right away found the WF8945 would not go into BOOST Charge mode. I would run my batteries down to 10.5VDC and still would not start up in boost mode. I also of course had already re-wired the BAT cables to 4AWG sizes. Then I moved two of batteries close to WF8945 (maybe 12-inches away) as someone suggested for a test and still could not get the WF8945 to ever go into boost 14.4VDC charge mode. I did see it go to 14.4VDC for maybe 12 seconds then switch back to 13.6VDC Mode a couple of times. I finally gave up and purchased a PD9260C 60AMP which I am still using today and it goes into 14.4VDC mode as soon as you turn it on. Even if the batteries are already charged it still starts out in 14.4VDC hen switches back to 13.6VDC. Of course with the pedant I can can force it into any of the smart charge modes. I originally installed the new PD9260C in 2009 in the same location the WF8945 unit was located but got to thinking since it was a new unit and still put a good steady 13.6VDC all the time why not just keep and let it be a back-up unit. Then I installed the PD9260C inside a cabinet wall as close as I could get it to the battery bank. With the DUAL BATTERY LUGs on the PD9260C made this as easy install just adding it to the 4AWG cable coming from the WF8945 unit connections. http://i.imgur.com/bMeW0.png height=200 I can turn on either converter now by just flipping ON the right circuit breaker in the WF8900 series AC Distribution Panel. All of this is what led up to this setup I am using today... http://i.imgur.com/4UQXH.png height=500 I probably could have finally figured out how to make the WF8945 unit work like it was suppose to but just plum ran out of patience with it. I was considering giving it a big toss out into the woods a couple of times... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/20/14 07:41am Tech Issues
RE: LCD Backlit DC Voltmeter (doesn't require power)

TENBEAR - Thanks... I would have to rewire my battery bank scheme a tad to do that but is doable... I have all of my battery switching in the POSITIVE SIDE of each battery and the NEGATIVE Lead of each battery goes straight to FRAME GROUND. I would have to use a TERMINAL BLOCK arrangement to run thru a NEGATIVE TERMINAL installed shunt to a single frame ground point. This is my current battery bank setup with my HALL EFFECT SENSOR in the POSITIVE SIDE of the selected batteries thru the switch arrangement http://i.imgur.com/Ggr1d.png height=300 Roy Ken
RoyB 09/19/14 07:36am Tech Issues
RE: LCD Backlit DC Voltmeter (doesn't require power)

YES - all of the shunts would be mounted as close to the source as possible. The problem is the BOTH sides of the shunt to frame ground is at the full DC CURRENT potential if it is mounted on the POSITIVE side of the battery. If you let something grounded touch the small wires feeding the meter movement it will go up in smoke in heartbeat. I guess you should always fuse both lines going to the meter movement??? Maybe it isn't that much of a problem but using the HALL EFFECT type sensor will only have the very small meter potential present on the two meter movement leads and zero potential from either one of those two wires to frame ground. This is where my fears are coming from... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/19/14 07:10am Tech Issues
RE: LCD Backlit DC Voltmeter (doesn't require power)

Rich - Let me know when you find one of the HALL EFFECT +/- 75AMP DC Current meter plus the transformer for around $30. I have one of these now and need two more for upcoming mods. I DO NOT want to go with the SHUNT TYPE current taps as then I have to deal with high current 'HOT' DC wiring running back to my meter console. http://www.fcbelectronicsusa.com/catalog/!C!7ryOgCWk~$(KGrHqZ,!lQEz0SS5cDBNFRwNnI3!~~_1_1135_1.JPG height=200 http://www.komponenku.com/image/cache/data/IMG_0448-500x500.JPG height=200 I sent email off to the ROSESANNA Company inquiring about this photo they have on the web site but they never answered back... http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4uf-9kQWNV0/UAdCXUqrkHI/AAAAAAAAGYI/GuPtHOb__oQ/s640/honewell-current+sensor.JPG height=299 The FCB ELECTRONICS company is wanting over $800 for their lising shown above. I purchased the same thing back in 2008 from SURE ELECTRONICS ebay/China for $35 I think it was. Sure wish I got two or three of them... HONEYWELL doesn't carry the CSCA-A sensor transformer line anymore is what I have been told. They used to sell for around $50 with-out the wiring harness... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/19/14 06:32am Tech Issues
RE: What to you mount your inverter on?

My ALWAYS ON 600WATT PSW Inverter is mounted on a vertical cabinet outside wall. I have a round vent (LOWES) where air can be pulled in from the POPUP OPEN area. I have also added small round vents (LOWES) between all of my wrap around cabinets starting at the entrance door going all the way around the inside of the trailer to the front tent bed area where we normally sleep. I have a 6-inch axial mounted fan in the WFCO converter/charger compartment where my push-in shore power cable was installed which is on an attic fan thermostat(LOWES) which I have set for 80 degrees. This allows me positive air flow from hallway mounted round vents on both ends of the total wrap around connected cabinets. When the 6-inch axial fan kicks on it draws air from the floor area of the popup and exhausts out an outside type louver fan vent from the converter/charger compartment. I can also just open the cabinet door where my 600WATT INVERTER is installed as well to get more air flow going. I haven't really noticed the 600WATT or the 1500WATT Inverter getting real hot. I was also planning on installing another outside RV type louvered vent from this cabinet as well but never did it. You can get an idea of my connected floor cabinets from this floor plan drawing... http://i.imgur.com/B0JtldQ.png height=250 http://www.rvrentalssanantonio.com/14RT%20Floorplan.gif height=200 OUTSIDE RV Louvered vents (AMAZON) looks like this http://www.hannarv.com/Content/files/ProductImages/Cargomate%20Enclosed%20Trailer%20Side%20Wall%20Vent%20Illinois.jpg height=200 Roy Ken
RoyB 09/19/14 04:48am Tech Issues

My 2008 model awning bag thread has finally started to rot out big time from UV rays i guess. My awning part is still ok. Right now I have the whole thing folded over on top of the roof and held in place by stretch ropes haha... Only making short trips right now to WESTMORELAND State Park just 30 miles down the road. The awning is sewed into the zip-up bags which makes it harder to fix. Almost have to do it yourself or take it to a local BOAT shop. They fix fabric on the boats all the time... All of the fabric for my awning bag is fine - just the threads have rotted away... I never could figure out exactly what I have here size wise anyway. Did check in with a couple online places to get it repaired but you have to send the whole thing to them for repairs... Only just a tad cheaper than just getting a new one I guess... I do know of a couple of guys on here using the sewing kits like described above. Saw one guy at a camp ground working away on his awning sewing on the picnic table... Since it comes down from the roof edge so easy I really think that is what I should do... I like the idea above about using 100lb rated fishing line.. You may able to use rivets as well... Since my awning zip-up bag is totally gone now I will probably take my whole awning down and carry in the back of the truck bed if I ever go on long trip... Just takes a few minutes to re-install again. Roy Ken
RoyB 09/19/14 03:44am Folding Trailers

Usually some of us 'OLD POPUP GUYS' like BondeBond, JiminDenver, and a few others would get something going over the winter months to keep the comments going. I know when I finally get going again here on my needed Battery System upgrades and adding solar panels to my POPUP I will get to put some info on here... I right now have my OFF-ROAD POPUP parked near my garage door where I can run cables into the house here in case of power outages... I run a coupe of HD DROP CORDS to a couple of the rooms we like to hang out in to keep the Fridge - Home entertainment going. Then fire up the fireplace and its nice and warm inside... At least I get to keep the OFF-ROAD POPUP DC systems going to do that for us hehe... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/19/14 03:27am Folding Trailers

Twomed - Its called FAT FINGERS or poor schooling on this end I reckon... Neither spelling looks good to me haha... My spell check here doesn't know the difference between the two words I guess... Thanks for the spell check... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/19/14 03:09am Folding Trailers
RE: how do i find my battery turnoff switch

Not all trailers have BATTERY DISCONNECT Switches... This is usually a customer ADD-ON feature. Need more info on what you installed battery wise. Two 12VDC batteries wired in PARALLEL or perhaps two 6VDC GOLF CART Batteries wired in SERIES. Here is a simplified wiring diagram of both installs. http://rvroadtrip.us/graphics/6v_12v.jpg height=200 The trailers are protected from installing the battery cables wrong and will blow internal fuses. There will be a fused item very close to the battery bank and maybe an IN-LINE fuse or a CIRCUIT BREAKER. There is also two fuses back on the 12VDC Distribution Panel or sometimes located on the CONVERTER/CHARGER unit labeled REVERSE POLARITY. These will be high value fuses depending on how much current your on-board converter/charger unit produces. A quick mistake that even sparks the battery terminal for a second will blow these fuses. You should make sure the battery cable wiring is corrected before replacing any of these fuses otherwise they will just blow again... I always make note of the NEGATIVE terminal marking on the battery case and look for the word 'NEG' or the symbol '-' and make sure this goes to the trailer frame ground real close to the battery bank. I have seen even replacing with the same brand and model of the battery the manf may have put the battery terminals on the opposite side on the newer battery which makes it easy to hook up backwards. Another quick test after you have installed the batteries is to measure across the battery terminal with a multimeter without being plugged into shore power and you should read 12.6-7VDC if the batteries are fully charged. Then go plug into shore power and you should now read across the same battery terminals 13.6VDC indicating that the converter/charger is on and all of the connections and fuses between the converter and battery are wired correctly. Roy Ken
RoyB 09/19/14 02:48am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Counter top extension

I thought some of these ideas were neat... FLIP-UP Table Extension Having one in front of the entrance door might not be a good idea however... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/18/14 04:29pm General RVing Issues
RE: CO Sensor...beep,beep,beep at 3AM

When the SENSORs only BEEP it usually means a low Battery etc. You can RESET the alarm and it quits. A CONTINUOUS ALARM indicates an actual alarm has been activated. This is how most SENSORs operate at any rate... I like to have two working CO DETECTORS installed in the same location as a PLAN B for false or "TEST" alarms. Read your literature on how your installed ALARMS are suppose to work... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/18/14 02:33pm Technology Corner
RE: Fresh water tank - do you drink water from it?

Being avid BEAN COFFEE LOVERs we learned along time ago that you use the same water for all your coffee making. We developed our coffee taste from a brand of bottled water that is available everywhere. Since we have to bring along bottled water for the coffee we just continue to use it for drinking and cooking. Always have a couple of gallons of bottled water on hand at any given time. We only use our fresh water for showers and other non-consumption stuff.. Roy Ken
RoyB 09/18/14 12:06pm Truck Campers
RE: Harrah's Tunica?

RV PARK REVIEW has a comment about it closing in MAY... RV PARK REVIEW Roy Ken
RoyB 09/18/14 06:13am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions

It seems that less and less comments are showing up on the FOLDING TRAILER POPUP FORUM. This is the lowest I have seen in recent times... We are still alive and well with our OFF-ROAD POPUP... Roy and Carolyn
RoyB 09/18/14 05:33am Folding Trailers
RE: Remote Temp Comp for Solar30 Controller?

Thanks Muddydogs - That makes sense.... I know charging here I only see 14.4VDC going for around two hours only then drops back to 13.6VDC. Then eventually drops down to 13.2VDC until battery current is demanded again which it jumps back to 13.6VDC then... I guess the solar chargers follow the same smart mode charging rules when the batteries are demanding charge current.... Roy Ken
RoyB 09/17/14 09:51am Tech Issues
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