| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: 96 Bounder 460 exhaust questions
Garand1 - Flex joint in the exhaust is not common on the "old school" motors and as mentioned is not the reason for the broken exhaust bolt. At a bare minimum you should replace the factory muffler with something more free-flowing but those manifolds are simply too restrictive when our 460s are breathing hard. The heat builds up to cherry red-hot, manifolds expand and bolts start poppin'. Its a sad old story we've heard time and again. Replacement manifolds have elongated bolt holes to keep the bolts from shearing off but they still don't flow worth beans.
If you plan to remove the manifolds, just expect more broken bolts and be thankful if they all come out in one piece. I got lucky when I put on my headers but some folks don't.
Headers really are the only way to go. Mine built up so much heat they actually cracked the heads near the rear manifold bolts. Now with the headers it runs much cooler. Look at the Banks or Thorley's.
|
SGKane
|
04/26/13 07:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Should you travel with a full tank of Gas?
Hi Lenny,
If your gas tank is full or not when you travel is not going to affect your MPG. I checked your Profile and see you have a 38' gasser so you are probably well over 20,000 pounds of weight. A few hundred pounds of gas one way or the other is not going to make a difference. Besides, if you start your trip full, how long does it take to get to 1/2 tank. Not long - right? Fill 'er up and enjoy the ride!
Yep that pretty much sums up my findings. Plus a full tank just gives you a better feeling. :)
|
SGKane
|
04/26/13 06:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Rear Wheel Simulator (Wheel Cover)
Thanks everyone. I got it home today (with the simulators not installed). I'm going to put it back together this weekend. I'll keep an eye on it for a while but something didn't seem right with there discription since I've never had a problem with those bolts.
|
SGKane
|
04/26/13 06:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Dash Air....R-134 or?
My 1996 Winnebago F53 chassis uses the R-134.
|
SGKane
|
04/26/13 01:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Toilet bowl seal not holding water
I did the tooth brush / Vaseline thing for half a season then finally decided to replace the seals. I couldn't believe how easy it was. Should have done that in the first place.
|
SGKane
|
04/26/13 01:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: 460 exhaust manifolds
Just replaced mine with the power pack system from Banks. The best thing I have did yet, runs great, much more power, runs smoother, engine runs cooler and no more manifolds to warp. I was really impressed. I can actually increase speed now up hills where I was losing speed before. I am loaded to the max, 35 feet long towing a car loaded with junk. Did not change fuel mileage enough to notice but still a very good improvment. I also installed the transmission control module from Banks to stop the constant up and downshifting on hills. Kind of pricey but well worth it for me as I was ready to trade it off.
X2 here. I only wish I'd put the Banks on sooner.
|
SGKane
|
04/26/13 12:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Sealand toilet leaking. Where?
Mine had slight leak to it, but not all the time. Found the hose going to the valve had a hose clamp on it that was a little loose. Tighten and now 3 months, no water problems.
|
SGKane
|
04/26/13 12:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
Rear Wheel Simulator (Wheel Cover)
We took our ’96 Winnie Adventurer (Ford Chassis) in for new tires. On our last trip the rear simulator came loose. The simulator is held on by 5 nuts that go on over the lugs. I didn’t notice anything wrong until I felt a weird vibration coming from the rear of the home. What has happened is the simulator came loose, broke one of the valve stem (dually rear end) and I was driving on a flat tire. The vibration I felt was the tire shredding itself apart.
I replaced it with the spare, and headed back to the tire store where we purchased the tires knowing full well they neglected to tighten the nuts. When I stopped the simulator was still hanging on. One nut was still tight, another came off in my hand and the other three were missing.
The tire store did replace the torn up tire at no charge but said they would not put the simulators back on nor would they accept responsibility going forward. They showed me why and it looks like after the lug nuts are on simulator nuts are only about a thread or two deep. And this was the same on both sides. The tire store manager said it was just a poor design by Ford. My problem with them was that at the time of purchase I had over 98K miles on that chassis with no problems with the simulators and now all of a sudden there aren’t enough threads to hold the nuts on. Store managers explanation was that the threads have been worn and between too few of threads and being worn there isn’t enough bite to hold the simulators on. He said they were afraid to tighten too tight as it would surely strip the threads.
I’m thinking that I could just fill the treads with loctite to keep them from coming loose. Other solutions would be just to give up and run without the simulators or replace the lugs and maybe find longer ones. What do you guys think and has anyone else had this issue.
Gordon
|
SGKane
|
04/26/13 11:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: RV insurance
We have GMAC and can't say anything bad. We had two claims and both were handled quickly and fairly. I give them a thumbs up.
|
SGKane
|
12/26/12 05:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Onan 4k running issues
Falcon,
I went through pretty much the same thing. Check out the progression.
Click here
Hope this helps
|
SGKane
|
11/20/12 05:54pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Curious generator question.
Thanks - I just wanted to get it all straight in my head :-)
|
SGKane
|
11/19/12 08:12am |
Tech Issues
|
|
Curious generator question.
For those of you who didn't follow my recent dilemma with my Onan Emerald Plus. Here is a Link if you want to see the progression etc. Now that it’s fixed by replacing the Voltage Regulator. I’ve been looking at this thing and wondering what went wrong.
In diagnosing the problem I did notice the slip rings were really dirty and going through the test I was convinced that was the problem. My question is that the VR looks pretty robust, is it likely that the dirty slip rings were putting an undo strain on the VR causing it to go bad or are the VR’s prone to just dying for now reason. It does seem to run smoother now that the slip rings are bright and shiny and the VR is replaced.
Thanks
G
|
SGKane
|
11/18/12 03:33pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Strange hot water issue?
Thanks everyone. I found the check valve, only one on the output side. It will be tight getting my hand in there but doable. I'm going to wait till the weather warms up a bit to take it apart.
Thanks again.
|
SGKane
|
11/17/12 07:16am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Onan GenSet 5000 Emerald Plus
Voltage Regulator came in yesterday and installed this AM. Everything is working great. Generator started right up and is producing 120 volts.
A huge thank you to everyone especially Generator Jim and Drycamper.
|
SGKane
|
11/17/12 07:10am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Strange hot water issue?
It Is likely that check Valve that Downtheroad mentioned!
It Should be easy enough to inspect , the Temporary cure is to just remove the Guts until You find a replacement!
I didn't realize they had a check valve. Sounds like the culprit. I assume I pull the hot water heater out to inspect? I’m assuming it’s on the input side to keep the hot water heater from trying to heat the water all the way back to the source?
|
SGKane
|
11/15/12 12:03pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
Strange hot water issue?
We just got back from a weeklong trip. While I was at work, my wife called to say we had no hot water. Not that the water wasn’t hot but nothing coming from the tap, cold water was fine. After a couple hours I get a text saying the water was back working.
A few days later the same thing happened. I open the hot water valve and nothing but a little drip, cold water runs fine. Same symptom on all faucets. I closed the hot water bypass valve and had plenty of cold water coming out the hot water side so the faucets aren’t plugged. I opened the bypass valve and viola we once again had hot water. My thought is that we have some scaling going on in the hot water heater causing it to plug up the line inside the heater. This is a 1996 motor home and I believe it’s the original gas hot water heater (Atwood GH6-8E). I winterized last night and drained the hot water heater. It was after 5 so it was getting dark but watching the water come out with a flash light I didn’t notice any chunks. Do you think a good flushing with vinegar might clear this up or since it’s actually stopping the water is it too far gone?
If it’s replacement time how bad is the job to replace? And currently this hot water heater is a gas electronic ignition DSI with heat exchanger. How bad would it be to change it to a gas/electric model?
Thanks for your help,
G
|
SGKane
|
11/15/12 11:14am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Onan GenSet 5000 Emerald Plus
Thanks Jim, Drycamper and everyone else. Put +12vdc to f1 -12vdc to f2. Engine ran and I had 68 volts at the output plug. I'll order a voltage regulator today. Once the part is installed I'll make a final post confirming the results. Thanks again, I really do appreciate all the help.
|
SGKane
|
11/15/12 09:22am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Onan GenSet 5000 Emerald Plus
With no connection it reads 1? reversing 5-9 to 9-5 does show a huge difference.
Rotor Test:
Rotor to Ground: Test good the rotor is not grounded.
Open or Shorted windings test: Test good, slip rings to rotor winding is not open. Shorted windings test shows 21.2 ohms (manual states it should be between 20.25 and 24.75). Doing the same test with the brushes in place gives me a reading of 23.5 which kind of implies to me that brushes are making good contact.
Next testing I’m guessing should be the Stator. Does anyone have a pin out drawing of the Terminal Board (TB1)? The manual states to disconnect T1 and T3 from TB1 for example. It’s difficult to see if T1 etc is printed on the board and I don’t have any drawings of it.
Stator and Control boards are about the only thing left. I’m hoping to get the control board off tonight before it gets too dark out to see. If work keeps interfering with my testing it will have to wait till tomorrow.
Thanks
G
|
SGKane
|
11/14/12 02:59pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Onan GenSet 5000 Emerald Plus
Picked up a new multimeter this afternoon and it kind of implies to me that the VR is probably OK and I need to move on to the next testing (although 5-9 still seems high to me). New readings are:
5-9 reads 926
7-9 reads 620
10-9 reads 490
11-9 reads 527
12-9 reads .642
10-5 reads 1984
5-11 reads 530
5-12 reads 525
5-3 reads 647
10 -5 should read “open”. Multimeter instructions state a open circuit voltage: apporx. 2.8V
I'll let you know. Thanks again for all your help.
|
SGKane
|
11/14/12 01:02pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Onan GenSet 5000 Emerald Plus
Drycamper – I changed the battery and the results are pretty much the same. My Multimeter is older model, I’ve probably have had it for 20 years now. I may go out and buy a new one today to verify. New readings are:
5-9 reads 1.169
7-9 reads .769
10-9 reads .575
11-9 reads .631
12-9 reads .642
10-5 reads 1.
5-11 reads .634
5-12 reads .627
5-3 reads .813
|
SGKane
|
11/14/12 07:34am |
Tech Issues
|
