Thank you for those videos. Mine is a bedroom slide, so the slide mechanism is not an issue. Both videos will be very helpful. First step is to get the plywood from under the mattress off so we can see how bad the mold problem is!
the "floor" of that slide was never walked on, it is the bedroom slide and the floor is inside the bed. The estimate for having the slide removed and fixed is from $1,500 to $2,000. That is why we are looking into trying to fix it ourselves.
I realize my RV is almost 10 years old, but if you look at the webpage I created for their customer service, it is fairly obvious that the problem was in the way it was put together. I guess if they can make them to hold together for one year, it becomes your problem!
My images are high res so I can't show them here! You can see the problem in detail at this webpage, along with the Keystone response: http://www.bitware.com/343L
The bottom corner of the slide was never put together properly. My guess is that the silicone caulk gave way fairly quickly and allowed water into the plywood under the slide with is now black with mold and falls apart easily. Eventually the metal bracket came loose completely and revealed the problem.
Any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated. My current plan is to move the mattress into the living room of the RV and remove the plywood that supports the mattress. Hopefully I will be able to see the extent of the problem once that is done. Not sure how, but if I can I will replace the portion of the plywood that is rotted and support the corner with a 2x4 and find some way to replace the metal corner that fell off.
Again, any suggestions would be appreciated!
Well, if the bed wasn’t there, it would be the floor !
The L bracket at the bottom front edge of the slide evidently came loose and allowed water to get behind it. The exterior bottom of the bedroom slide looks like it is made up of a thin piece of Melamine over a piece of A/C plywood. The plywood edge that I can now see is turning black and you can dig into it easily with any pointed object. The dealer wants over $2,000 to remove the slide and replace the floor.
Our plan, after our final trip this years, is to move the bedding into the living room of the RV and then remove the plywood under the bed so I can get to the area for inspection. If the rot is not too extensive, coat it with something to contain any spread of the water damage, glue a 2 x 4 into the corner that came loose, then get a larger L bracket to re-secure the bottom front edge of the slide.
If the rot is extensive, we’ll have to have it repaired!
Does this sound like a reasonable plan? Can anyone give us any advice before we get started?
Why is there a difference between using the liquid and powder versions of calgon water softener for cleaning grey tank sensors.
I can’t seem to find the powder in any of the stores near me. Is there a good place to buy the powder?
Thanks all, We have a sealed bottom so getting to the sensors for replacement would not be easy, so I think I will try the BORAX as soon as i can find it. Our next outing will be on Sept 20, and I have to take the RV up to get the tires changes on the Tuesday before that. I will do the BORAX thing before I get the tires changed, then let it sit and fill it with more fresh water before we head out for camping on Friday. The black tank is fine, we have a flush system and flush it thoroughly every time. It is the grey tanks, specifically the one for the kitchen sink.
Is there a good way to clean the sensors in your waste water grey tanks? My tanks always read full and I’d like to find some type of solution to put in the tanks before we make out next trip so that they slosh around and clean themselves on the way to the next campground. Is there such a thing???
Update Update Update
This is an update made on 9/24. We tried the calgon water softener method with good results. our combined grey tanks are 79 gallons. We added half a bottle of calgon to each grey tank plus 25 gallons of water. We took the RV up for new tires two weeks before our last trip, left the water mix in the tanks and emptied it this past weekend when we got to our campsite.
The shower tank sensors are all working now. Three of the 4 kitchen sensors are also fine now. Plan is to do the same with the kitchen tank before our next trip.
Also, per what we read on line, we will be adding a capfull of calgon to each tank every time we get to a new camsite so the "stuff" does not build up on the sensors again!
We have had our Brake Smart, the older twin brother of Max Brake, since 2004 and totally love it.
Installation into the hydralic system was easy.
Had to stop about 5 miles out on our first trip because it felt like the RV was pushing the truck when we stopped. Two small adjustments at the controller keypad fixed it without even getting out of the truck. We've never touched it since!
And as you have said, once it is in total sync with the hydralic system, the truck and RV stop as a single unit, up hill, down hill, high speed, low speed, at stop lights, everywhere!
The real problem comes from the original post “the Red and White wires are mis-crossed”. What does that mean? We have to assume at the terminology used!
The real answer to the original post should have been “If you don’t know what you are talking about, call an electrician!
Red wires generally don’t exist in 120 volt circuits. I know my post was based on a pure guess at what the original post meant, but at least it did start with the proper phrase, “DO NOT PLUG IT IN”
:E :E :E :E DO NOT PLUG IT IN ! ! ! ! ! ! ! :E :E :E :E
The “normal” for 120 volts has a white neutral and a black 120 volt hot line. The 3rd wire is ground and might be unshielded copper or green.
The “normal” for 240 volts has a white neutral, a black 120 volt hot line, and a red 120 volt hot line that is 180 degrees out of phase with the black wire. The 4th wire is ground and might be unshielded copper or green.
The hot wires are alternating current. They change from plus 120 volts to minus 120 volts 60 times a second. 180 degrees out of phase means that when one wire is plus 120 volts, the other is minus 120 volts. The difference between plus and minus 120 volts is 240 volts!
Your original question was:
A friend of mine has a an outlet and also the plug for a 50 AMP, the Red and White wires are mis-crossed. What will that do to his RV if he hooks it up? ...Thank you!
The 50 amp RV circuit crosses half of the RV outlets from red(120) to white(neutral) to give you 120 volts and the other half from black(120) to white(neutral) which also gives you 120 volts. If the red and white wires are crossed, the result would be:
half of the RV outlets from red(neutral) to white(120) to give you 120 volts and the other half from black(120) to white(120) which gives you 240 volts – and the 240 volts will fry anything plugged into those outlets!
I have this one: Voice recorder and it works well. No playback except with a computer, but recordings are fine for voice. I would not recommend recording your music collection. :)
Thanks, this one does look like it will attach to my keychain! I'll research the bitrate on it. Don't worry, it's not for music, just to record notes and phone calls.
When I asked for “best” quality, I’m not looking for good quality; I’m looking for understandable quality.
What I’m looking for is basically a device I can attach to my keychain, have with me all the time, and be able to pull it out when I want to record a note to myself or capture a conversation or phone call that I put on speaker phone. It would be nice to pull out the flash drive, place it on the table and not have to rely on memory regarding something I discussed with someone else
For those who are not familiar with these, they look like normal flash drives, but also have a switch on the side. When the switch is on the device acts like a microphone and records the sound around it, voice, music, etc.
Has anyone tried one of the USB flash drive voice recorders? They range in price from $17.33 to $79.00. The question is which ones have the best recording quality? Higher bitrates give you better quality, but I can’t find anything on line that compares the various devices to each other.
Here is the picture you want:
Your RV breaker panel is just like your house panel. You have two hot sides, the sides of the outlet plug, and a neutral in the middle. Nothing in the RV is connected to both hot leads, so the 240 v you see in the top left corner should never happens. You just have to double check to make sure that either side to the bottom center is only 120v. If you wire it wrong and one of those 120 v meters is reading 240 v, you will blow up anything you connect to it.
Each side is alternating 120 v current, from plus 120 to minus 120. When you compare that to the center neutral at 0 volts, the difference between the two wires is just that 120 volts plus or minus.
The key to 240 volts is that the two sides are 180 degrees out of phase. When one side is at plus 120 volts the other side is at minus 120 volts, so at their peaks, the differences between the two voltages is 240 volts. You are comparing the two sides to each other, not to the neutral or ground.
You got me Jim, I was trying to hide the fact that I wanted one that had little white canes that keep tapping the road so I stay on it!
Yes, the 5er is great, but we did look at a class A gasser this weekend and it was very nice.
Push a button and it levels itself, outside TV for watching football on Sundays when we stay till Monday
Full size refrigerator
Tile floor so our Saint Bernard has a cool place to lie down, which is very important, she’s the family boss!
The only real problem is they are asking 130K before talking about trade, and we really don’t want to get rid of our F350.
And of course, it is a gasser, but under 26,000 lbs
Thanks for the list so far. It will give us a great starting point. The only real problem with all of them is they are missing one of the best features of our 5er, its paid for! Oh well, guess we will just have to skip that feature for a while!
We are getting close to upgrading our 10 yo 5er to a class A or C. We are looking for a unit with the following list of features:
Self levelingA king bedTV across from the seating area, not over the drivers chairsUnder 26,000 lbs so we don’t need a special license
Where do we start looking?