I am new to fifth wheel life and am in the process of purchasing a hitch and a fifth wheel trailer. Aside from manual or automatic sliders, is there an industry standard as to where the king pin is centered in relation to the rear axle?
Referring o the brackets used to attach that rails in the bed, there are various types of brackets available (custom, semi-custom, generic) that are offered by numerous manufacturers. Is there any significant difference in the design and measurements of the brackets that would change the final mounted position of the hitch in the bed?
Finally, what are the differences in the various rail options (4-bolt vs 10-bolt) aside from the obvious difference, of six bolts? In what situations would a 10-bolt be used over a 4-bolt?
I was at the Tampa RV show this weekend and saw one of the strangest pin boxes that I have ever seen. Wish I took a picture of it. It was on a Light by Open Range and looked like a goose neck, but it had a fifth wheel plate and pin on the end. It was about 24" proud of the front cap. The front cap was also scalloped way back. The factory rep said that a goose neck post could replace the pin by just substituting the adapters. I tried to add a link to a photo on the Open Range website.
The pin box was supposedly made by the same manufacturer as the rest of the trailer frame, Lipper ot Lippert.
The hitches I am considering (Reese and B&W) all have an maximum adjustable height of 18" or 19". The bed rails on my P/U are 22 1/4" measured just forward of the tailgate. I realize that the pin box has an angle to it and on the fifthwheel we are looking at is slightly proud of the nose. I read in other posts and forums that a 6" bed rail clearence is desirable to maintain clearance through dips and rises. I also know that the fifthwheel should also be towed level. What hitch height do other Ford owners with the new body style (2011) use and how much clearance does this proivide? I know that ir varies by the design of the fifthwheel and the pin box, but just wantet to hear some numbers. I will also be using the Reese Revolution pinbox.
I figured that I would get a bunch of comments regarding weight. I have gone over the numbers a bunch of times and they work just fine, close, but not over the payload weight on the door or combined weight and well under the rated towing capacity. I looked and looked for a design with water/holding tanks over or behind the axles. Also, the spare tires will be mounted on the rear bumper for an extra weight margin. For over a year now, I have been following other F-150 Ecoboost owners that pull fivers of similar weight, all have reported no problems and decent gas mileage.
Regarding hitches, I was looking for a light fixed fifth wheel hitch as my fiver will have a Reese Revolution pin box which would negate my need for a slider. I found the B&W Patriot 16K on the internet today while doing more research on hitches. It looked promising, but I couldn't find an installed weight listed. Does anyone know the installed weight?
Depending on where I go on the internet, I run across some sites selling hitches that specifically state "not for 5'6" beds" while others sell the same hitch with no such notification. I guess my best bet is to call the manufacturer and specifically ask about the application.
I'm new to pulling a fifth wheel. We plan on ordering one in the next month or so and will be picking it up at either the factory or a delivery point somewhere in between. I need a hitch installed before I make the trip. I have a Ford F-series PU, short bed (5.5').
In order to having to install a slider hitch, we are ordering the fiver with a Reese Revolution pinbox. However, in reviewing the specifications for all the fifth wheel hitches, I am confused regarding the features available.I am looking at either a 15K or 16K fixed hitch. I would like to be able to remove the hitch when not in use. I don't need a totally flat bed, so some rails would probably not be a problem. Under-mount rails would however, be nice.
What are the advantages of the different jaws (standard vs premium, slide bar vs standard double vs premium double)and pivot types (double vs cushioned double), importance of height and rail mounting (4-bolt, 10-bolt, etc.).
The fifth wheel we are considering is light and has a gross vehicle weight of 9900 lbs and a dry pin weight of 1160 lbs. Any help is appreciated.
Yes, wheels turning in correct direction. On my previous truck, I added an aftermarket controller, a Voyager. This unit caused the brakes on the same trailer to frequently lock when I applied the brakes, so it seemed needed a lot of fine adjustment. The integrated system in my new truck has never caused the trailer brakes to lock.
The controller is an integrated Ford controller. I can raise and lower the gain from 0 to 10. I had it set at 10.
Got a few more questions.
What kind of brake controller? (Built In, Time or inertia type)
If inertia type, how aggressive is it set?
Aside from being built in, not sure about the type.
I connected my truck and jacked up my TT. Then, while then I had someone step on the brake while I spun the free tire. I heard a click, but the tire continued to spin for about 4 more revs, then abruptly stopped spinning. Each of the four tires functioned identically. Since we have only owned the trailer a short while, I am not sure how quickly they should engage. Does this sound like the brakes are functioning properly? Thanks!
Does anyone know what size the nut is that holds the rotating base to the roof plate? I need to buy a deep socket, but the nut is partially obscured by pieces of rubber roof. Also, the O ring on the worm gear/shaft was non-existent. Thanks!
I don't have the boot on this antenna. The hole is sealed and the cable is run into the camper through the refrigerator vent.
I'm going to pull the whole thing apart again tonight and check the gasket and O ring. The whole antenna bracket pivot assembly is a lot looser than I would like, and maybe pulling it down a little will help.
OK, I found the exploded diagram in the manual. It's dark now, but I don't recall seeing a rubber port on the rotating gear housing. I did remove the shaft and worm gear, but did not pay attention to the O-ring. So if I am looking at the assembly correctly, after I remove the shaft/worm gear, handle, spring, etc. I can from inside the RV use a socket and extension to remove the nut that holds the gear housing in place so the bearing and other internal parts can be inspected? I know right now that nothing relating to the antenna has been lubricated in at least two years.
I have an infrequent leak in the ceiling near my Winegard antenna. The water drips in via a seam in the ceiling just next to the the antenna handle. I took the handle off and shaft out and it is not wet in the hole that goes through to the roof. I have sealed everything close to the area of the leak with Dicor and the rubber roof is in good condition with no abrasions or visible holes.
I do notice a puddle of water on the antenna base around and under the antenna's rotating turret. The Dicor around the base is new and without visible voids. The Dicor also appears to be holding the water on the base. Is there any way possible that the puddle is somehow overflowing from the base and into the RV somewhere under the turret? I tried to remove the turret from the base, as it is very loose, but I see no way or removing it. Is the turret removable without completely removing the base from the roof?
Actually we were looking at a dealer in Asheville, NC. That would be Terrell Camping Center? I had checked their inventory a while back and they did not have any of the 23.5RBS models in stock. Just checked and they are still not in stock. Couldn't find any closer to where we live in Florida.
Gaffney is where the big peach water tower is located correct? I used to live in Myrtle Beach and had friends in Spartanburg many years ago.
I like the plywood and floor jack idea. Unfortunately, I have no one to help with the reinstallation of the Coroplast, nice to know what it is really called. Regarding the orientation, I am sure of the orientation, as there are several cut-outs and the waste drain to line things up and yes, there was a belly in the Coroplast when I tried to install it. The Coroplast was anchored with screws and large washers and they will be going back on.
I am thinking of installing the front edge with loose bolts, then sliding a sheet of plywood under the Coroplast, then a pair of long beams I have under the plywood and using short 2x4’s under the beams to raise the beams and plywood to the undercarriage. I have several sheets of plywood so I could rise the Coroplash almost the entire length at one time.
Although the Coroplast was originally sealed with urethane foam around the various pipes that penetrate the plastic sheet, the rodents apparently found a small hole in the foam and enlarged it to get in. Fortunately, they did not get into the TT, only the undercarriage and roof area. We had a cover on the TT and we did not see any problems until we took the cover off. My patio awning looked like Swiss cheese, along with a few holes in the rubber roof which were easily repaired.
I plan on reapplying the black urethane foam around the pipes, then overlapping the entire perimeter and around all other penetrations with black Eternabond tape. I know that any water that gets into the undercarriage needs to get out, so I plan to install soffit vents at the low spots to allow air circulation, drain water and keep things out. Any thoughts?
I had to replace my freshwater tank and repair some wiring in the underbelly of our TT chassis. To do that I had to remove the corrugated plastic cover that they are now installing under most TT and fivers.
When I tried to replace the plastic, I made it about half way to the back when I noticed that the original holes in the plastic were getting further and further off from the holes in the chassis. By the time I got to the back, I was 2" short. I tried again starting in the middle and worked to the front and then the back. Same thing. Does this stuff shrink? Does it make any difference if I don't reinstall it, other than it is a good place for undesirable vermin to set up housekeeping? Maybe it is easier to get a new roll and start over, trimming off what I don't need? Any suggestions are appreciated.