I wired mine up. Lowered teh underbelly material, found the wires going to the rear tails, and tapped into those 3. I used a new screw into the frame for the ground to make sure it was clean.
At the rear of the fiver, I have a bike rack that can fold down, which also has a hitch ball hole. To keep the harness plug protected when not triple towing, I installed tail lights on the bike rack, with another plug. I plug that into the boat's wiring plug and the lights on the bike rack, when extended, act as another set of tailights/stop lights.
Silicone seal anything exposed, wire loom over any wires. All is good.
Go for it.
When you do swap your truck in a year, go straight to the 1 ton for max payload.
Interestingly, some of the new F150s have payload ratings of 1950 lbs. GAWR (rear) is still 4050 lbs though.
So are these considered 1 tons? now ??
Using the manual method, I found that I had 1 real hot wheel recently, and, a lot of brake dust on that wheel. Pretty sure it was not a bearing because of the brake dust.
I tweaked the adjuster on that 1 wheel to move the shoes away from the drums, I felt that perhaps this 1 wheel was doing the lion's share of braking. That seemed to help a bit on a few test runs, so I upped the tension on the other 3 as well. This solved my dilemma.
One a recent trip, when I used the trailer brake controller alone in a parking lot, that 1 wheel locked up while the others didn't, and, was sqeeking a bit. Got a brake kit, popped the tire and hub/drum, replaced the 2 shoe springs, the adjuster and adjuster spring, cleaned everything with spray, and lubed the top post with brake lube. It's like the shoes would not reset to home, and that was 1 place where they could have galled.
Removed all the black grease (heated so much it changed colours I assume), repacked the bearings (which loocked fine), repacked the hub through the zerk, and cleaned the tire back with brake dust remover so I can use that as a barometer to check in the future.
So far, so good. My point, it may not be the bearing all the time, in my case it appeared to be a brake.
My bbq is low pressure, so my solution will work.
I see a regulator at your bbq, are you sure your bbq isn't low pressure as well?
If so, the regulator, in our local code anyways, MUST be at the source, or, tank. This way, if there is a hose leak, it would be low pressure gas escaping, not high pressure.
The tee in this kit attaches between the regulator and the tank. The extra connection is for campstove/lantern-type connections. I'm not sure what you mean by a "QQC" connection, but you might need an adapter with this setup...
Sorry- fat fingers- I meant QCC.
This solution would require a 20+ ft propane hose to go from the tank/this T, which is front left, to the back right corner where the rig's cooker is. Something that I wanted to avoid.
Thanks for the reply.
Searched, no luck.
The rig has a female quick-connect propane port with shut off and dust cap. The rig's cooker has the male nipple to insert into. The regulator is at the tank, front left corner of the treller.
Bought a BBQ. It has a 3ft hose, regulator in the hose, and a standard QQC connection for a tank connection.
I would like to be able to connect this BBQ to the low pressure/quick connection on the trailer,but not have to disconnect the cooker.
I want to: replace the hose on the BBQ with a 10ft'er, nipple on one end, female on the BBQ end with a new BBQ controller valve with nipple on the BBQ end. I found this at Camco, part number 57609.
I still need some way to T off the rig's female port- either a brass T, or Y, with 1 nipple (male), 2 female quick connects (I cannot find that anywhere). OR, get a licenced tech to create a T using short hoses, with a nipple on the end of a 6" piece, a splitter in the middle, then 2 other 6" hoses each with a female connection on its ends.