As was just mentioned, the ball adapter hooked up to your pin box can make the effective length of your pin box either 4 inches longer if the adapter is installed so that the ball socket is forward of the pin, or it can make the effective length 4 inches shorter if the ball socket is positioned behind the pin. When I used the Andersen hitch I had to install it so that the ball socket was aft of the pin or my pin box would hit my bed rails. I had plenty of clearance by turning it around, but it slightly decreased my turning. I couldn't turn quite as sharp without risk of hitting the front of the trailer into the back window of the cab. This isn't an issue if you have a long bed truck.
Ah, thanks. I changed it back to 2. I have a Renogy Tracer 4210 40 Amp MPPT Charge Controller. It does not have a state of charge indicator.
Now I recommend you go with the previous advise and do a hydrometer check on your batteries to determine if they are actually fully charged or not. I'm not sure why your charge voltage isn't up to 14.8 volts with the batteries accepting less than 2 amps given the settings you're saying it's set at. When you said setpoint of 14.8 was that for your solar charger or something you entered into the trimetric?
For P2 on the trimetric, the recommended setting for Trojan flooded batts is 2, which equates to two percent of the value you entered into P3, which should be 360 based on the type of batteries you have. The Trimetric will do the calculations internally as to how many amps that equates to. I didn't see where you indicated which charger you have so I don't have any inputs for your settings there. Does your charger give a state of charge indication as well?
My experience is that any Inductive type load is going to experience a shorter life expectancy, especially anything with a motor. That said, microwaves tend to die quicker on modified sine wave inverters as well.. Electronic items are somewhat hit and miss. Power supplies are pretty good nowadays and adapt to a wide range of frequency and voltage conditions. Square, or stepped sine waves can mess them up however. With Pure sine inverters being relatively cheap anymore I see no reason to go with a modified device.
If you've been towing for a lot of years, and don't think you need it, I would say you don't. Myself, I engage the 4X4 quite often while towing, generally several times a year. My ten year average for towing works out to just a smidgen under 7k miles per year. Both the wife and I have jobs where we work long hours, but get regular extended weekends, and thus often travel several hundred miles for our 3 or 4 day weekend. In the winter, that generally means at least a mountain pass or two that is snow covered at the least, and might involve more than that being we need to get back to work sometimes when the weather is less than optimal.
You can't really off road in a one ton as they aren't suitable for it and I have other vehicles for that sort of use so 4X4 isn't necessarily necessary for us in these situations, although it sometimes provides a benefit when the afternoon thunderstorms strike. 4X4 is a real benefit in the snow however. While front wheel drive and good tires will generally get you going, the added control you get with 4X4 makes the adventure a whole lot safer so I use the truck or our SUV when the snow flies rather than the car when possible for the added maneuverability the 4X4 provides.
Glad to hear your system is working good for you. Any more issues with the SC2030 voltage climbing too high?
Like you I see a fairly significant difference in solar output when I head south. As much as 20percent difference between Northern Utah, and the southernmost part of the state, or Arizona. Can't wait until I can start hitting the road on a lot more regular basis and give the solar panels the workout they deserve. They're getting spring fever pretty badly right now with all the snow on them.
If you have 4 -12 volt battery's you have a 48 volt Cart,(battery's are wired in line) you can not use 6 volt battery's, it would take 8 of them and there is no place to put them, do not buy Cosco or Sam's Battery's, go to a reputable Cart dealer and buy the best they have, the cheap Battery's have a very short life, some a year or less, the
"expensive Battery's" up to 7 years, I have gone through this, trust me!
While Costco sells Interstate batteries that are a somewhat less predictable service life wise than some batteries, Sams club sells a very predictable East penn product now. For instance, if you get the EGC2 Duracell battery from Sams club is identical to a Deka GC15 which gives predictable service life somewhere in between what you'll get with a Trojan T105 and T125. Of course the freshness of the batteries you have consider no matter where you buy. No matter what you buy, service life will be highly dependent on maintaining them properly which makes a huge difference.
I initially plugged my 5er power cord into my inverter, but found it somewhat of a pain when traveling where we moved often. I also found myself getting old and forgetful when it came to turning flipping the DC converter circuit breaker. I ended up putting in an auto transfer switch so I wouldn't have to deal with the cord, and I put a SPDT ac relay in the circuit for the DC converter that I use as an isolation switch to turn of the DC converter if the inverter is powered up. Easy and brainless seems like the way to go as I head into retirement.
There's a reason the national parks are so crowded - especially in the summer. They are unique and one-of-a-kind.
I agree, our parks are getting 'loved to death' - too many people but that's for another post.
For Zion, and Arches we're probably only a couple years from implementation of policies to limit people. Last I heard they are looking to make most hikes in Zion "permit required" to include Angles landing. For both Zion and Arches they've been taking input on rationing methodology to include options like a time based reservations system to both limit total visitors, and impact at the gates. There has also been considerable discussion on a rationed permit system for hiking many of the National monument and park areas and even more of the BLM areas using variations of the system they are currently using in the vermillion cliffs area (The Wave) How much it helps with crowds is anyone's guess.
Personally I don't think Rocky Mountain National Park is worth fighting the crowds. You can hike to some nice waterfalls, and lakes, but even if miles from the trailhead, you encounter a lot of people. Trailhead parking is difficult, with the shuttle service only being so so. If you tow your trailer over the mountain, you'll be stuck behind and extremely slow moving Subaru, probably with the red lettered license plate both ways. On the downhill side they go so slow you'll have to be in first gear where the engine brake doesn't work. If you want to hang with the crowds, or hit the shops in Estes park it's okay I guess. For outdoor adventure or wilderness experience, not a good choice.
We are considering a small generator, as we are planning on camping in Federal and state parks that have no electrical hookups. We have a Heartland Bighorn Fifth wheel 3070rl, we don't run the air conditioner. The main 120v electrical uses would be, the TV for area weather, blow dryer, toaster, hot water heater just to heat up occasionally, refrig, recharge the phones. Would the 2000 watt work for our needs? we would not be using everything at the same time.
There isn't and exact answer to your question because of your DC converter. My bighorn has a PD9280 DC converter, capable of putting out 80 amps DC. It actually has a 20 amp ac cord/plug rather than a 15 amp. While mine rarely puts out a full 80 amps DC to the batteries, depending on state of charge of the batteries, it can easily be drawing 500 watts. Most 2000 watt inverter generators are only rated for 1600 watts continuous, and you will probably find you can't even pull that much at altitude. My Microwave draws right at 1500 watts, and most hairdryers are 1600 watts, although I managed to find a 1200 watt unit for the wife she is happy with.
Bottom line, unless you're batteries are pretty much already fully charged, a 2000 watt generator might not run your microwave if it's a high power draw unit or a hairdryer unless you turn off the DC converter/charger, and possibly other AC items. Even then, you might have issues at altitude. Non Ethanol gas will gain you a little extra power, equivalent to maybe 1,500 feet of altitude or so as will an altitude jet for the carb if you're at high altitude.
I first decided to get a pellet smoker after learning about them from a guy in Louisiana I was helping resolve a wiring issue on a plane he was building. Turned out he earned all the money to build the plane through BBQ competitions. Best chicken and Ribs I've tasted to date, but I hope to get something as good myself someday.
Pellet grills impart a great smoke ring, and a light to medium smoke flavor that never gets that sooty, or creosote bitterness you often get when the cook stops down the airflow on the more conventional smoker too much. Temperature is very well controlled with a good pellet grill, and they are pretty much set and forget in convenience.
I started with a Camp Chef pellet grill that I got right when they started making them. Still going strong despite years of use in all weather conditions. Just have to be careful not to get the pellets wet as they revert back to sawdust when wet.
Just purchased a little portable Traeger PTG from the Traeger Rep at Costco a couple weeks back. He only had the one left and let it go with cover/case and a small inverter for a great price. It's far from a great unit but should get the job done on the road, and it fits in the spot I want to carry it in.
As should be obvious, I love mine. Got rid of my Egg and side burner once I went to pellets. Kept the electric smoker but that's just used as a warmer once in awhile. Don't think you can go wrong with a with a pellet smoker once you figure it out, and find the pellets that impart the flavor you like best. They do great with pizza as well, and I do my thanksgiving turkey on mine every year for a fantastically juicy bird, and of course my Christmas holiday prime rib is done on the smoker as well.
And here's another little tip:
I just learned today that my wonderful wife of many decades has been poking randomly at the Rogue Solar Controller's buttons just to get the screen to turn on so she can read the battery temperature.
One of the buttons is "equalize" another is "setup", etc.
No wonder the poor thing has been acting odd lately ...
The question is: Did you make things worse by forgetting the wisdom of the ages and make a comment that will cost you dearly for the foreseeable future?
The first hand experience is greatly appreciated guys. As an update, I decided against going the hybrid route. To begin with, I'd have to do a fair bit of re-wiring as the batteries in my 5er are in the front bay, with the dc converter being behind the basement with an undersized wiring run of at least 15 feet given the route Heartland decided to run it. Since even with the hybrid inverter I'd need to run the generator too, might as well even parallel them, or get a bigger generator if that seems like too much trouble.
The final electrical upgrades I've decided to run and install as soon as the weather improves a little more are:
4 X EGC2 Duracell wet cell golf cart batteries (Deka GC15s, 230ah) Battery box built, batteries on charge in garage, ready to install.
600 watt Samlex PST inverter (installed right after got trailer) and an additional Xantrex Prosine 2000 watt inverter both auto transfer switch wired to whole house. DC converter auto disconnect, fridge, ac and water heater disconnect to be done manually. Can't even use the recliners in this rig without AC power. 600 watt has been more than enough for the last year, but wife wants to be able to use Microwave for short spurts, and about 5 mins of hair dryer (1200 watt) in morning. How things change over the years, didn't even have a generator for camping most of my life.
Upgrade solar to 1000 watt, 10 X 100 watts all parallel, dual Bogart SC2030 charge controllers, panels running full length of rig to help with shade issues in assorted semi shaded areas.
Having your temp stuck at 66c doesn't really sound like a connector issue to me as I would expect that to be more intermittent in nature with variations of readings. Probably a higher probability of a component failure. That said, any and all mechanical connections will almost certainly cause problems eventually. Remember, terminals and most pin type connectors have two mechanical connections. You have the connector to wire connection, which is often a crimp, and the connector to connected surface connection. With your temp sensor it's easy to just disconnect it and see what happens without it as well
As for loosing the Bogart chargers, it will be a shame if/when that happens. It appears Ralph is more or less the company, so it's probably inevitable. Unfortunately, when it comes to battery chargers there really isn't anything else on the market that compares that I've seen. There are many options out there that measure voltage right at the battery, but not that measure current at the battery and allow the options that become available as a result. Programing isn't an issue for me as you just do it when you install the batteries and then forget about it.
Still interested in what you find, and good luck in getting things resolved prior to your boondocking.
For non commercial drivers, you just have to ensure you comply with the license requirements of your state, and of course be under the extremely high weight standards already mentioned. A couple times when hitting the dunes in Glamis California, I've had to laugh at the poor folks with CA plates when they do set up the scales. They just wave us through with our out of state plates.
For those mentioning the risk of facing a lawsuit after an accident, if you look at how that sort of suit actually works, it's what you're worth that determines whether or not you get sued, not whether or not you're at actual fault. That said, I do use a dash cam as it's so common for folks to pull in right in front of you, often so close you can't even see their bumper below your hood.
Believe it or not, Temple square in SLC is the most visited tourist attraction in Utah, attracting about the same amount of visitors each year as all five National parks in the state combined. It's beautifully lit up around Christmas. The Kennecott mine already mentioned is impressive to me in its size, and the absolutely huge machinery used. If you're traveling with kids the national history museum, aquarium, and zoo are quite good in my opinion.
Of course the traffic can be impressive in regards to how poorly so many drive. The air during the winter can be impressive in how thick and polluted it can be during temperature inversions etc... I'm not so much a city type, and find cities to not be all that great. Salt Lake also has some amazing canyons and mountain areas boarding right up to the city. Some fantastic outdoor rec to be found.
Hard to say from your description. Have you done any testing to see if you might have damaged the circuit breaker? The GFI breakers can be somewhat sensitive sometimes. I'd try plugging the trailer in to a different breaker, using a different extension cord. You also need to be sure if you're tripping from a GFI fault, or circuit overload. I'd also see if the refrigerator would run off gas and battery, which will help pin it down to the AC heating circuit which is the most probable if the fridge actually is the problem. You should have DC fuses in the control board circuits that would be blowing if there is an issue there.
Battery temp of over 150f seems pretty warm. That should have reduced the voltages rather than increase them unless there is something wrong. Your P22 setting of 9 is a default settings for concord AGM batteries which should limit you to a max charge voltage of 16.5 volts. Personally I'd override that default and set it lower to protect your on board electronics which probably have a lower max voltage recommendation. I'd definitely wait to hear back from Bogart and discuss what might have gone wrong. If you get in the instructions you'll see how to check your P8 setting which is absolute max voltage.
For equalization, you use the select button to cycle through till DSE is displayed (Days since equalization). If the value is 0, hold select about 5 seconds and it will start equalization. If the number of days is greater than 0 hold select until is resets to 0, release, then hold again for 5 seconds and it will start equalization.
BFL13, Dekas low and slow isn't necessarily that slow, I probably made it sound worse than it is. They recommend 14.3 volts absorb without a high voltage finish, or mini equalization if you will. Only a couple tenths lower than Trojan. From what I've seen in the garage topping them off they charge up relatively fast given the voltage. I'll have to see how they work when I stuff them in the trailer. I'm also upgrading the solar to a fair bit of over capacity for only 460ah of battery. I'll have 1000 watts, 10*100 will all ten panels parallel wired since I camp in mixed shade quite often. I've had a lot of experience dealing with assorted batteries over the years, so if they aren't behaving as desired I'll figure out how to make them behave. Hopefully without blowing their tops in the process....