The bad thing is, when you "Buy Local" It often doesn't mean it's a local produced product. This year when buying the little bundles of firewood at a store near where we were camped recently in both Utah, and Colorado, it turns out the wood came from Montana. Go figure...
I'm not a fan of Politics of progressive insurance, but wouldn't necessarily let it keep me from buying the insurance if the business practices were good. Based on what I've heard from friends that used Progressive though, and documented customer service like the following keep me from even thinking about it.
Progressive goes to court against their customer.
Actually, his rzr was well configured, the custom cage held up well, and with a little more experience he should make that one next time. A little better approach angle and he almost certainly would have made it. Even in the situation he found himself in, he had a sporting chance or rolling out had he backed out of the throttle a little and nosed her back downhill. He needs to re think the helmet he was using though. I'm not sure what it was he was using.
Having participated in hard core off roading of trucks for years, and the last 4 years or so with a rzr, that was a climb many would attempt. Yea, sometimes your results are somewhat exciting like what happened here, but for those involved in the game, re-building the machine and making it even tougher and more capable is part of the fun.
One thing for certain (we just spent a week in Yellowstone and stayed in FSCG, my sixth trip since the 1980's) that park looks NOTHING like the original developers viewed it when they protected the land.
Far as I'm concerned, the development has gotten way out of control, and the crowds unbelievable. NO WAY can we protect this park from the "progress of cell phone, FHU, and eventual destruction over time". And that is truly unfortunate.
If and when we decide to truly protect these national park and forest lands, we can only do that if we return to more primitive style campgrounds. Only that way, can the people that visit Yellowstone and other parks understand the original intent of wilderness protection within the national parks and forests systems.
Given the sheer size of the human population, and the resulting large number of people trying to enjoy the "outdoors", it isn't possible to keep things as they were without banning people or at least significantly limiting the numbers that are allowed into the "protected" areas. Kind of a catch 22. We desire to preserve the beauty, which can only be done if we prevent ourselves from seeing and enjoying it.
Having explored and enjoyed so much of the backcountry areas for decades, I'm amazed at how many people now venture out, and how many areas now have lottery permit systems to allow visitation now. As a person who often attends land use discussions, I anticipate that camping, and venturing into the back country are something that will change significantly in the next 20 years or so.
Finally, back to the cell phone discussion, I still find that at least a third of the state of Utah still doesn't have coverage, and we don't miss it at all. Of our camping trips this year we only spent about a fourth of it in areas that had cell phone coverage. It's kind of nice in that we don't get any "work" calls, and don't have to feel guilty about being dishonest when we say there wasn't phone coverage available.
Sticking to the original post, you can indeed tow double trailers on ball hitches in Utah provided you don't exceed the max length limit. You can even tow them at 80mph and be legal provided you're on one of the sections of freeway where that is the posted limit. That said, 80mph with the little tires of those trailers, and of course doubles being somewhat more prone to sway might lead to a little excitement. Since you live in Utah, I'm sure you have seen a lot of doubles being towed, in fact, about a third of the folks we regularly camp with do it, and couple using 5ers, the rest bumper pulls.
I towed a very similar setup for many years without any issues. Tow vehicle was a 87 2 door S-10 blazer, 3 inch lift, hopped up 3.2 crate engine. Trailer was a coleman tent trailer, lifted on a custom suspension with a heavily beefed up frame I customized for off roading. I had a little 16 foot aluminum boat on a trailer that I'd carry the 9.9 hp motor and 5 gallon fuel tank in when traveling. It towed really well, and I could even back the combo up to launch the boat with the trailer still attached more often than not. Without the boat I could take that truck/trailer combo almost anywhere. I even did the Shaffer trail with it when I was camping on the white rim trail in Canyonlands.
If you're in northern Utah, there are several trailer manufacturing shops that can look over your trailer and custom build you a receiver setup if frame is solid enough make it feasible.
You didn't mention if the cummins had a turbo or not, but I'll assume it's a turbo. One possibility might be the fan not pulling enough air across the radiator. As air density decreases, the fan will pull less volume for any given RPM. It's been to long since I took my aircraft powerplant classes back in the 80's for me to remember the formulas, but it seems a fixed prop lost about the same amount of power as an engine, which you could get pretty close to calculating by figuring 3 percent per thousand feet.
All that said, I've never noticed what you're experiencing.
Even cell phone batteries still cause fires from time to time, although it's not nearly the problem it was a few years back. For really impressive results though, you need to be flying an RC aircraft you just spent weeks building, and have it vent on you a couple minutes into it's third flight. It's impressive and exciting to watch, but at the same time you can't help but think about how much time and money just went into that little fireworks display.
We have a 2012 Timber Ridge 240RKS, and I must admit we've had quite a bit more trouble with the cabinets and refrigerator than we've had on any previous TT or motorhome. My best guess would be that we've put a little over 12,000 miles on the Trailer since we got it, so we probably do cover a little more ground than many, but are far from extreme. Surprisingly, although we often travel dirt roads, most of the problems seem to happen with pavement travel.
The shelves tend to come out of the slots in the refrigerator even the ones with nothing on them, and then they are really wedged in tight and hard to put back. I'm surprised we haven't broken the walls on it yet. The rear cabinets have to be packed with pillows and lots of support bars. The cabinets being quite flimsy have also been falling apart with the screws backing out, cross braces breaking etc. This is part is because Outdoors RV went really cheap on the cabinet construction when compared to the Springdale trailer we traded in on it, but it also seems things are really getting bounced around. While I really like the floor layout, the rear of the trailer does seem to ride rough on the road and thus I'll probably look to have the bedroom in the back should we do a next time around. The kitchen we'd look to have in the middle like the last TT, or up front.
That said, having just come back from a trip, I need to go out and do a little work on the kitchen cabinets under the sink where they're falling apart from the bouncing.
I have a lot of campers over the years, and other than a tent camper that didn't have tanks, I always "Use" them. We rarely camp where there are hook ups, and about half the time water, or dump stations aren't available. I've never had any issues, even though we often drive a considerable distance over rough dirt roads.
The above said, even with full fresh water tanks or waste tanks, I was never close to my weight limit. I never really worried about full fresh and waste tanks as I always basically just transfer the water from one tank to the other.
With the smaller inverter you're looking at, you'll probably be looking at using at most 25 to 30 percent more than you would if you had to run straight off the battery.Where do you get those numbers from? My 300W doesn't waste anywhere near that amount unless you're talking about the really cheap inverters. Mine is rated at 80-90% efficient.
I think you're leaving the CPAP power supply out of the equation.
To begin with, most inverters don't deliver the advertised efficiency under anything but ideal load conditions. That said, assuming your advertised 80 to 90 percent efficiency of the inverter, you lost 10 to 20 percent of your energy converting from DC to AC. The internals of the CPAP machine run on DC. Most modern units use a brick type power supply to convert AC to somewhere between 12 and 24 volts DC depending on manufacture. A few of the machines built the DC converter into the machine, so with those there isn't a practical way to bypass this portion of the equation, but you are still going to experience another energy loss converting from AC to DC. If you have a unit that can be plugged directly into the DC power supply you'll bypass the two conversion processes and realistically save somewhere between 25 to 30 percent over a comparable machine which requires putting the inverter and brick into the mix. With really good electronics, you might do a little better, but I wouldn't expect it to be all that significant of an improvement.
Note: For the technical types out there, before anyone points it out, I realize that the energy isn't "lost", but for our purposes that term works as good as any in my humble opinion....
With the smaller inverter you're looking at, you'll probably be looking at using at most 25 to 30 percent more than you would if you had to run straight off the battery. This will be due to the efficiency loss in the inverter, and then again within the CPAP machine which internally runs off DC voltage. You'll be converting DC to AC, then back to DC. Unless you're using a lot of other stuff through the night as well, you shouldn't have any trouble running things off the batteries you have provided you run the generator 2 to 3 hours a day to charge things up. You'll want to of course charge the batteries all the way up when you get home from your trip but you should do fine for the week.
If you do a google search, there are several companies that sell DC power cords, and stand alone battery power supplies to run CPAP type machines on. I can't remember where I saw it, but one of them has a pretty good chart that will tell you how long the assorted brands will run off their battery power supply at different pressure settings. As I recall most of the units will supposedly make it though the night on an 8 amp hour battery, even the ones that need to run on an inverter, providing of course you don't run the humidifier heater.
For others looking in to camping a lot with a CPAP, the modern Respironics machines run on 12vdc and just need a power cord to hook to a cigarette lighter etc. ResMed machines mostly run off 24vdc and are easiest run off of inverters. With other brands, its worth looking in to if you intend to camp without hookups often.
Quick question while on the road trying to trouble shoot.
Every few days I have to dry out my air filter because one unit will not start.
Has anyone encountered this? The filter seems full of fuel,
Stopping air flow.
Looking for reason this would happen!
Definitely fuel? Is the airtube which goes from the airfilter box to the carburetor wet, as well? My experience on purchasing my first Champion 2000 Watt inverter generator a couple of years back, I opened the box in the parking lot at the Sam's Club and filled the car and the generator with fuel, leaving the gas shut-off in the on position, I drove home. It leaked fuel from a tiny little vent-hole in the carburetor everywhere. Turns out, that for whatever reason the float shifted and held the needle and seat open. Removing the bowl and emptied the fuel, shifted the float and it operated up and down with my finger, put the bowl back and never did it, again. That is the only think I could think of. Good luck. If that doesn't help, customer service.
I've found my champions have this fuel leak problem on occasion if I run them dry by turning off the fuel and just letting them flame out from fuel starvation. This happens when I leave them empty in the back of my truck, then drive around exploring dirt roads with them still back there. If I leave a little fuel in the carb, I don't end up getting the leak where I have to pull the float bowl, but they often tend to be hard to start after the day of bouncing around.
As has been mentioned, a lot of the nicer ATV trails in Utah have 50 inch restrictions, which is why we decided to stick to the 50 inch model. That said, the bulk of our riding is on trails that you could even take a jeep on. I used to figure at least 1000 bucks worth of damage on any good day of trail riding when I was using jeeps. The same trails with the RZR rarely do any damage other than maybe a cut tire. They also do remarkably well as multipurpose vehicles, be it rock crawling or just blasting through sand dunes, or flying down desert dirt roads.
I think the 120 volt 2 amp thing is with the humidifier heater running. My Respironics Bipap machine runs off 12vdc and draws less than 2amps DC without the humidifier heat on. With a Bipap the current draw fluctuates depending on whether you're inhaling or exhaling and it also varies if your machine automatically changes pressure settings as required. I run my machine off it's own group 24 battery which works fine without recharging for 3 nights. When we go on longer trips I have to charge the battery every couple days, which is no problem as I also have to put at least a couple hours of charge on the main TT batteries every couple days anyway.
As for living on batteries, you just have to figure out what you can and can't have. It's amazing how much power it takes to run a lot of the modern devices we now have available to us. That said, I found we can live fine in our TT for several days on a couple group 24 batteries without feeling we're giving anything up.
We have a 2012 Timber Ridge 240RKS. We didn't get the double pane windows, and don't deliberately camp in the winter months, but we do camp well into the shoulder seasons where we sometimes get snow, and nighttime temps into the low teens or single digits. The TT does great in these conditions other than a little condensation on the windows. My last trailer I had the gray water line freeze and break on me in similar conditions because the dump valve wasn't in the heated underbelly.
As for Timber Ridge, mine seems pretty tough, and does great for the type camping we do which is mostly off the beaten path no hookup type stuff.
In the rocky mountain west area where I take my 240 RKS I've found it really varies on how big a spot you need. In the mountain areas of Utah, I've found that most of the forest service campgrounds don't have the room to fit side by side with the truck and TT, and many don't have the room to park the truck parallel to the road. Head to the desert areas and things tend to get wider so you only need to get a spot long enough for the TT. Most of the campgrounds I use require you to park the TT and tow vehicle in your spot, and don't have any other places to park the tow vehicle. Most of the full hookup sorts of places I've been to have areas you can park the truck other than your campsite, so again, no hard fast rules.
Trailmanor does the same thing. I've got a single 3500# Dexter axle under a trailer with 4230# GVWR. And, the posted GAWR is not 3500# but 3619#, since Trailmanor believes the weight of the wheels and tires do not count. It's all part of making an extreme light weight trailer.
Other companies are much more conservative. Keystone puts 4400# axles under some smaller Passports, Cougars and Laredos. The Northwood Mfg. and Outdoors RV puts 5200# axles under some of theirs. The Outdoors RV Timber Ridge 240RKS has two 5200# axles and GVWR of 8100#. THat's one reason why these trailers are considered more rugged than the light-weights. I have a 2012 240 RKS, and not only did they give you plenty of axle, they also gave you several thousand pounds of extra tire capacity, the lack of which is one of the main reasons people experience tire failures on ST tires in my opinion. The "buffer" really helps on rough roads, tight corners etc where you're really pushing suspension components.
I'll be interested in seeing what you come up with. I'm in a similar situation, albeit without the toyhauler. We like to hit a lot of different trailheads when we head out with our RZR, many of which it isn't practical to park and unload a toyhauler, not to mention the difficulty in packing up the trailer every time you want to hit a trail. The RZR will only fit in the bed of my shortbed Ram if the tailgated is down, and then it is too much weight to reliably haul on the tailgate. Of course, the trailer jack and tailgate would get in a dispute of sorts if I tried to tow that way.
Many years ago, I towed doubles, a camp trailer and boat, but found it was pretty much more trouble than it was worth. Heaven help you if you got in a situation where you had to back up any significant distance, or maneuver while backing. If the boat ramp was a fairly straight shot I could generally launch prior to parking the trailer, but it was tough.
Right now, I'm kind of looking at over the bed racks, but with around 1000 lbs of trailer tongue weight, I think putting the RZR up high on the back of the truck and people, other cargo etc I'd overload my 3/4 ton truck which combined with the elevated center of gravity would probably make it something I wouldn't care to drive.
Good luck, and please post if you find a good solution.
It's very interesting to me to see those pictures and hear your story as I almost thought one of my workmates was making up stories when he described doing virtually the same thing to his brand new 2013 Dodge half ton last weekend on a washboard road in the moab area. He claimed he wasn't doing anything extreme, yet blew three shocks just driving on normal dirt roads, not towing or carrying anything.
Your pictures speak volumes
Based on the rig we saw parked in the campground we were in last week, those Kodiaks must be pretty light, and extremely easy to tow. We had a camper nearby on the mirror lake highway in the Uintah Mountains of Utah that was using a Volkswagen Touareg to tow a Kodiak 263RLS. While I never went and talked to him, I overheard him telling another camper how much he liked the setup, and how well it towed behind his vehicle. I didn't look closely, but from the road as I walked by, it appeared he had a standard "Equalizer" brand hitch, and I must admit it didn't look overloaded when we watched him pull out.