The automated stuff in cars still worries me. We have a 2013 with the lane departure and collision avoidance **** in it which I always turn off. The collision avoidance doesn't hit the brakes for you but it will kick off the cruise control and you get noise and flashing lights. Unfortunately, it will alarm sometimes with nothing around and could result in distraction to the point of an accident in my opinion. With the lane departure stuff the never ending road construction around here confuses it on occasion, again, no foul except the lights and noise, but I hate to think what it would do if it was driving itself.
I have a T-Fitting on one of my TT gas bottles prior to the regulator to tap off and get high pressure when desired. I rarely use it as I generally a spare 20 pound tank to use with both my weberQ, and my little red campfire. That said, even though I have those two options, most of the time I just go with the simplicity of the little green tanks.
Sweet looking truck. I picked one up two weeks ago, but haven't towed anything with it yet. I just traded in my bumper pull for a 36 foot fiver GVWR of 15500, which provided I keep the pin weight at around 20 percent should result in my keeping everything to spec. Like you, I got the factory airbag assist, but lost a couple hundred pounds of cargo capacity by going with the aisin tranny. Having destroyed an even half dozen transmissions over the year that has normally been the weakest link in my vehicles. I'm hoping that one is bullet proof enough to survive even me.
Keep it safe, and I can only hope I end up as pleased with my setup as it appears you are.
Well, we were just looking, but I suppose some of you guys know how that can go. The original 5er that gave us the itch was a Coachman Brookstone 315RL, but couldn't find one configured the way we like, and for some reason they have discontinued making that model and we couldn't order one configured the way we like. We saw several others units almost there, but didn't feel quite right.
Today we had a dealer have us come by to check out a Bighorn 3270 he just got in, which spoke to us singing "just right", and at a hair over 35 feet it seems like a good compromise size wise. We didn't intend to buy until sometime in the early spring, but the price was also where I had hoped to be so we'll end up having this rig parked outside once we get the trade in cleaned up and the new one gone through and prepped for us.
One thing to do to eliminate some stress when you go bigger is to get a Garmin RV NAV unit. Ours is also paired to a backup camera on the back of our RV. Anyways, it allows you to input your RV's weight, width, length, and height and directs you around areas that are unsuitable for your size. It's a great setup...
I appreciate that input. With my current rig I pretty much didn't have to worry other than some city streets. That and a road the called mountain view I got onto when heading to a KOA campground in Manchester CA. Had I looked on the KOA website for directions instead of just following the vehicle GPS I wouldn't have made that mistake. The vehicles gps definitely doesn't take size into the equation.
As for the size of the 5th wheel we end up with, that's going to be tough. For getting around I would prefer under 35 foot, maybe even down to 30ish. Seems anything out there that's of any sort of quality is getting close to 40 foot in length. I guess they don't think folks buying a shorter rig deserve something a little shorter.
I just picked my Ram 3500 up from the dealer this evening as I had to take it back to get the steps and bed liner sprayed in. (Bought it Friday) My 2011 Ram 2500 had the standard Ram steps, but I didn't like that they didn't help in getting into the front of the bed, so this time I had them install the wheel to wheel steps. So far they seem like a worthwhile addition.
Regarding the bedliner, the rhino liner stuff is pretty much the same as the linex now at many shops. What they use tends to depend on the equipment they have to spray it. My preference is the harder Linex spray in. I've got to say this dealer did a much better job of application that my last one and the finished product looks really good.
I'd really like to thank everyone for their thoughts and opinions. In order to see what I would think of towing something that long, I sweet talked a workmate into letting me tow his 40 plus foot toyhauler around behind his shortbed Ford yesterday. Surprisingly, although I burned a quarter tank of diesel or so it only cost me a steak dinner for him and his wife. I found it was much easier to tow than I expected on the freeway and highway, and even felt good on a winding mountain road other than the truck being underpowered. The huge tail behind the truck was also every bit the pain I expected on surface streets. You'd really need to think and plan your trips ahead dragging that around. For background, I've never towed a fiver, but have drug bumper pull trailers for 40 years or so, often towing doubles with either a boat or atv trailer behind the camper.
Personally, I would be comfortable using the 24ft TT we currently have, but the wife finds it claustrophobic. That said, we've towed and used it all over spending well over 120 days in it, and dragging it around for approximately 21 thousand miles in the 4 years we've owned it. Not bad considering we both work. The 18 footer we owned prior to that only got used for actual boondocking type camping since the wife found it too small, resulting in us motel camping when doing travel other than actual camping trip type stuff.
I think the bigger rig when pretty much only be a wise choice if we were going to be spending a great deal of time in each location which isn't really how we envision our future.
Anyway, thanks again for the inputs. We've pretty much talked ourselves out of the giant rig, although it would be sweet when set up. Double glazed windows, dishwasher, big enough for me to have a doghouse so to speak should I maintain form and need one from time to time. In the end, the original plan we've had for the last few months of something in the 30 to 35 foot range that we can actually drag around a lot seems to be the smartest option. That's much closer to 28 foot total length bumper pull that I've found to be very comfortable and easy to drag just about anywhere. It will also mean we can still possibly take the atv trailer with RZR on it behind the 5er if the overall load, and of course handling of the rig make that viable.
We just bought a similar truck. Took it to the dump yesterday. Coming out empty it weighed 8220 lbs with me aboard. So doing some math it appears that it can handle 3600-3700 pin weight.
BTW we love ours. Drove it 1400 miles home from dealer in colorado. Chris
Nice looking truck. I ended up trading in a rather good looking white and gold 2500 for this one which is a rather bland black although the metal flakes do really shine in the sun. With the extra incentives of the buyback for the old one, end of model year etc. I ended up with a pretty good deal and now have the power folding mirrors, which come in handy getting into the garage, and sunroof which I didn't really need, the factory airbags in the back, and fifth wheel setup. The nav unit is also a lot nicer than the old one and is even somewhat usable with voice commands whereas the old one never got it right, and the backup camera is much better as well. Being a dark color however it now looks like I need to join the snowbirds and head north for the summers, and south for the winter. I have to take it back on Tuesday to get the bedliner sprayed in and the step bars installed. For our running around yesterday I had to carry around a step for the wife and help her get in and out. I never realized till I tried one without just how much you need those steps.
I seriously debated a dually longbed but I hated the last dually I owned and swore never again. The SRW four door units are already very limiting due to bulk especially in the cities where the parking seems to get tighter every year. Seems many parking lots have slots so narrow you're over the white lines on both sides, and we won't even discuss trying to back in or out.
I love that area and find myself down there several times a year. The roads are normal width and the curves wide enough that you shouldn't have any issues staying in your lane if you pay attention. The scenery can be distracting, and some seem to get nervous about the lack of wide shoulders. Given the high number of rental units you see down there though most seem to do really good, and I've never seen any of the tractor trailer drivers seeming to have any issues.
I remember my dad taking me through that area back when I was a little kid and you had to take the dirt road over the devils backbone which was quite the trip back before they paved a road over the hogsback.
For the sake of argument, lets not worry about the weight other than the fact that I know I'll be unhappy with the power to weight combo. That said, current truck rating for carrying capacity is 3680. Dry pin weight of Bay Hill 5er Model 379fl=2390 and gvwr=16,070. In theory, we could probably keep things within spec. That said, my current setup is the first time I've owned a setup where I was fully adequate vehicle wise and I do enjoy the peace of mind it gives me.
I like the inputs regarding the view from the rigs living area. Being as how we currently only do rv parks around 20 percent of the time I kind of just picture rv parks as trailer park type parking lots. Seems we normally only use them when we're stopping in a city. We were looking hard at living area layout for television viewing etc, but hadn't really thought much of looking out the windows.
Size and bulk I am quite concerned about. For background I had a lifted beefed up popup I would drag along places like Canyonlands white rim trail behind a small s-10 blazer. Even took it up the Shaffer trail. Owned a old 34 foot class A for a year but got rid of it because it really wasn't up to towing a toad and I didn't like being stuck with no real transportation while on the road. The current TT only weighs about 8k fully loaded and we have drug it around a little over 21,000 miles in the 3 years since we bought it. We love to travel, and are looking forward to where we can do it at a slower pace spending weeks in each location rather than just a few days.
Sticking to the size issue, how big can you go before anything but truck stop type gas stations become the only real option? How many more options site wise would we have with something in the 36 foot range vs something over 40? Where is the cutoff for most people to where the size of the rig becomes stressful rather than fun?
We're looking to retire somewhere around the spring of 2017 and are looking to purchase the Retirement rig in the near future so we can work the bugs out prior to hitting the road. We won't be doing the full time thing, but a lot of longer trip travel, and maybe setting it up in a warmer climate during the winter for getaways.
Units we are leaning towards are front living area units such as the Evergreen Bay Hill rigs.
Just traded in the 2011 2500 Ram/cummins truck for a 2015 3500 with cummins Aisin Tranny, but it is a shortbed and SRW. Current RV is a bumper pull 240RKS timber Ridge bumper, total length of 28 feet which is a breeze to tow anywhere be it dirt roads, tight winding steep mountain roads etc. It was also a great unit for off grid camping, whereas the rigs the wife likes would be best parked in an RV park. She isn't a fan of the little bumper pull.
I realize what we're giving up in regards to spots we can camp, but how much will I give up in trying to tow something that long and wide? Would dragging it up to Alaska for the summer be an option? Would a summer circling the lower 48 over say 5 months be something where I'd find the towing angst outweighed the good life while parked?
The advise from those who have been there and done that would be greatly appreciated.
For as little as you're towing, I would say no to the diesel. For a daily commuter gas engines are a better choice in my opinion. Where the diesel really shines is in towing, especially if you tow the mountains a fair bit. While you hear a lot about diesel torque for pulling the hills, you don't hear as much about the engine brake on newer diesels which is just as sweet in my opinion. I find I can control my speed on downhills with the engine brake alone on my diesel where I would be in 2nd gear constantly hitting the brakes to keep from over revving the engine with the gasser.
Back to the commuting thing, I find that this time of year when it's really cold outside I'm just getting the diesel truck up to normal operating temp by the time I get to work, which is not particularly good for the emissions system. I use the truck almost exclusively for towing, hauling etc and use a gasser to commute.
I cook a minimum of a half dozen prime ribs a year, considerably more than that most years. The last few years I've been hooked on the pellet smoker slow cook/smoke, followed by a reverse sear.
First apply a rub, or marinade the night before you'll be cooking and let the rib roast sit in the refrigerator overnight.
On the day of the feast, smoke the rib roast at 185 to 225 until roast internal temp reaches around 120 to 125 degrees F depending on who you're cooking for and their preferences as to how they prefer their meat. Keep in mind that the lower cooking temp results in less temp rise while resting, so you'll probably want to cook to a slightly higher temp than you do when cooking at say 325 or 350. The benefit of the lower cooking temperature is that it gives a much more evenly cooked interior to the roast than what you can achieve when cooking at higher temperatures.
Once you've hit the internal temp you're shooting for, pull the rib roast out of the smoker and wrap in foil to rest while you have the gas grill heating up as hot as it will go. Once the roast has rested 20 to 30 minutes, pop it on the grill for 8 to 10 minutes to crisp up the outer skin (Time will vary based on your grill, and I've found best results are with a grill that gets really hot). You don't need to rest the roast after searing the outside, just slice and serve.
I'm happy to say I have a nice rib roast in the refrigerator right now that I'll be enjoying on new years day with all the fixings, and some nice dark ale.
Having been an avid camper for 50 or so years, and watching the changes that have taken place over the years I would be really surprised to see much of the population RV'ing 25 years or so from today. Boondockings days are numbered in the west, which will impact many. Environmentalist pressure, along with taxes based on miles driven as well as weight of vehicle, time of day driven etc will also have a very significant impact. I would expect the US to thus become much more like the more densely populated countries in Europe where few members of the population camp in any way shape or form.
I too have a 2012 240RKS and have come to the realization I was a fool to have bought into the hype that it was a "Quality" TT. Fit and finish wise it really is a significant downgrade to the springdale I traded in on it. Some of the components are fairly decent however, It's just the construction that make it junk. It appears to be delaminating in the aft upper left corner, and on the front down low at the seam between fiberglass and aluminum midway between the doors. I've had wires come loose, numerous screws fall out of the cabinets, TV failed, developing cracks in the fiberglass front cap, screws fail on braces for the lower skirt/fairing, cracks developed in the fairings around both sets of entry steps, and the roof has an awful lot of bubbles in it. I'm currently only a couple years out from retiring, and thought this one would fit my travel/camping style well for hitting the road much more often, but it's obvious now this unit isn't up to any real travel or use. I'm already looking for something to replace my Timber Ridge.
My 2012 Timber Ridge came with a 32inch Jensen 12vdc television that has RCA input, HDMI, and VGA. It's connected to a Jensen surround sound system with DVD player that again runs off the batteries and seems to be fairly power efficient.
As others have mentioned, you can walk through sams club, Costco, best buy or whatever and look to see if the tv is powered by a wall wart. If it is, the power input is more than likely capable of being run directly off the battery, you just need to make up a power cable with the right connector on the end.