If you are going to sit somewhere, you'll probably want something 30 feet and up. We have snow-birded 6-8 weeks with a 25 foot Class C which is less RV than your 20 foot TT. We did fine each time. It's cramped during the winter evenings, but it's better than a tent and better than being in the snow belt. I'd suggest you try your TT. Bring the title with you, and if you get to the point where you have to go bigger, there are lots of dealers in the snowbird areas.
DougRanier, I did put a mark on the dial. The point is, any semi-smart guy designing the thing would have incorporated it into the product.
I bet not 10% of RVers with batwings know which way is the front. Like you say, it did not matter in the past. Now that TVs scan for and memorize channels, you have to get it right from the get go.
If you're still working and pressed for time then definitely make reservations.
We were full-timers and retired so we were never on a schedule. We didn't make reservations even for our 40' motorhome and for many national and state parks - even along the Oregon coast in all seasons.
Many parks have campgrounds that don't even accept reservations such as Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Glacier, Bryce, etc. and also some state parks - even in Oregon. We also enjoy national forest campgrounds. Of those that do reservations, there are always 'no shows'. If it's a major tourist destination such as Yellowstone, we'd stay nearby the previous night and drive into the park early morning when folks are leaving and when the 'no show' sites become available.
Honestly, we've never been turned away because there was no room at the inn. I understand that some folks think they can't travel this way but you can. It just takes a different way to approach the situation. You'd never pull in a 4pm in a national or state park and expect to get a site. The same goes for pulling in on a Friday. If you can be flexible it's easily done.
I sure hope this will work for us. We are going to Grand Canyon, Utah NP areas, and Colorado for the months of May and June. Our trip is completely seat of the pants, and I do have some dread about not having reservations. OTOH no matter what, our MH will be somewhere every night, with us inside it.
We won't know until we try.
The Batwing Antenna has been the same for 40 years and its operational parameters have been the same. The Wingman is a ADD ON adapter Winegard came up with for BETTER Digital reception. Now, it makes no sense for Winegard to change its design for a few customers that do not like it. I have NEVER seen on forums or had customers complain about the Wingman parameters for directional pointing. MOST customers have NO CLUE as to which way to point the Antenna. They just Rotate until they get a good signal. Doug
I'm another one of the weirdos who wonders why they don't have something on the dial that matches up with the antenna aim.
Rotating around till you get a good signal went out with analog broadcasts, IMO. Now I have to use an app to show me compass headings for local TV signals, then a compass to try to set the batwing. Then have the TV try to find signals. Then maybe some rotation for fine tuning. I guess this is because we are usually out in the sticks, so the signals are marginal. In a metro area, it doesn't matter where the darn thing is pointed.
If you have a grill that you use the one pound bottle with. When you convert it to use a portable hose from your 30 lb tank how do you regulate the heat, because you have to remove the regulater because that is the part the bottle screws into
The hose screws into the same port that the bottle does.
This is on my Chevy Express 4500 van Class C cab.
I had oil residue in the seam between the rubber floor and the entry molding, on the driver side. Photo below. In the photo I had already wiped it clean. The high point was at the left of the highlighted area, and it stopped at a low point under the seat where the seat attachment bolt is.
It had spread up on the rubber floor about a half inch, the way that oil typically will spread. It might have been there quite a while and I never noticed. There were a few dead bugs and other debris.
It was not water. It was oil. Well, it could be brake fluid, but it felt like oil. And it's not a diesel engine, either.
So I have a mystery. I don't carry oil or fluids there. The engine compartment is pristine. I took photos around the drivers side if anyone needs proof. :) I mean, it is squeaky clean. Same thing under the dash. It only has 15K miles. Maybe some oil change tech did it, I suppose.
Can you think of any mechanical reason for it to get there?
I don't have a long term experience to back me up, but I do agree with his idea. I started with a previous generation Morningstar Sunsaver PWM controller. It only does one voltage, which is 14.4 adjusted up or down by ambient temperature. My cheap 12v batteries seemed to do just fine with it. I did not go for long periods on solar, though.
I started a thread a year or two ago asking why float mode was needed on solar. Float mode is the end of a long charge cycle. With solar, every day is a new charge cycle, with complete rest every night. Float mode seems useless. If you get full during the regular daily cycle, the amps taper down to virtually nothing. The sun goes down, and it shuts off. What else do you need? Even the models with float mode still start every new day in the bulk cycle, and onward from there. It's not like you are sitting in float continuously like you would on a shore power converter.
The current version of the Morningstar Sunsaver PWM has float mode. I asked them why the change, and I got the feeling they didn't want to say it was for marketing reasons.
All controllers have float now. Usually after Vabs has been present for 1-4 hours, it drops to float. Why??? You might still be able to get a few more KwH out of absorption.
Most people in my thread didn't like my idea.
Now I have added more wattage, and I have a Renogy controller that runs 14.8, and 13.8 float. Okay, whatever.
We have had a Chevy 3500 small C, and now a 4500. We have not had the Ford. Anything I write about the Ford is hearsay. But I've been reading here for years, so I'm just repeating what I've read.
The 6.0L V8 is a great motor. Both it and the Ford have had HP spec changes in the last year or so for some reason. Before those changes, I recall that the Chevy had quite a bit more HP, and the torque was similar to the Ford. My point being, don't get hung up on the mistaken idea that the 6.0 Chevy is not as strong as the 6.8 V10 Ford. It's probably the other way around! (That'll get some eyes rolling, but I bet it's true.)
The Chevy 6 speed trans is great. The engine and trans combo work well. I cruise in 6th at about 2000 RPM. When it needs to downshift to 5th, there is no commotion, and virtually no increase in noise. 4th is not unpleasant, but at that point you are hearing more of it.
Ford people like to talk about "let it scream, that's what it is designed to do." I just have not experienced that with the Chevy. I think the Chevy is a real stout engine, and the package is smooth and quiet.
Ford now has a 6 speed. I think it has greatly improved upon the manners of the prior 5 speed trans. A lot of people complained about that one. So, maybe the 6 speed is now as good as the Chevy's manners and noise level.
(Again prior to the new 6 speed) Fords got worse MPG than the Chevy. It seemed to be about 1 MPG less. Maybe that gap as closed somewhat or completely now.
There is some difference between the two in front end suspension architecture, which I don't recall. The Chevy handles quite well.
There is no noticeable engine doghouse heat in our two Chevys.
Both the driver and passenger legroom is better in the Chevy. I think the Chevy nose is 6 inches longer, so they must have the engine a bit more forward.
For all those reasons, I bought the Chevy for our Class C's. Just so you know, I like both Ford and Chevy trucks in general. My last three pickups were Ford, Ford, and Chevy (diesel). I try to buy what's right for the situation.
They removed the prime logo from eligible books, but it looks like the Kindle Unlimited logo is still out there. Any KU book should be eligible to be read as a KOLL.That might be of some help.But you still have to do the actual borrow from your kindle device.
That makes sense from what I can see. I'll have to proceed on that and try to borrow one of them under the KOLL program.
I use the following site to access Kindle Prime books on my PC. I download them to my Kindles to read them but you can also read them on your PC.
What you and another poster are mentioning is Prime Reading. This is completely different from the Kindle Owners Lending Library. The KOLL has 1.5 million books available. But isolating, searching and borrowing them is a pain in the neck. That is what I am asking about. The books are not best sellers. Most are cheap and written by novices and amateurs. But some are good. I just read Moneyball, which was a big seller several years ago about baseball's new way of evaluating players.
Then there is Kindle Unlimited, ANOTHER Amazon ebook program. :)
We have done the same thing for a few years. We had two trailers (fivers) and then switched to a small motorhome. This advice is from my perspective. Maybe it won't fit yours. But we are almost at this point:
If the only real usage is going to be for the snowbird trip, I no longer want to drive or drag an RV back and forth. Leave it there! I thought we were going to be doing a lot of other traveling besides the snowbird thing. In reality, the snowbird thing is a big chunk of the year, so the rest of the time we aren't as interested in RV travel. It's easy to tell yourself, we'll get this trailer and we'll go all over with it. But will you? Or will you just drag it back and forth to Florida?
You mention Carolina to Florida. Anything north of FL will have some serious cold weather, too cold for a snowbird experience, IMO.