We've stayed in some good ones. You have to pay an entrance fee, so that can make the value seem a bit less. At Junction is South Llano River SP, just a few minutes off I-10. It's a nice little CG, dead dark at night.
You can screw a small wooden support block under the plastic piece to help absorb some of the weight and prevent the rear of the slide from moving down until it breaks the plastic piece.
Naturally you could change to heavier hardware if you want to.
That's what I did on our fifth wheel.
I will be interested to see what you find. We looked at all the ones we could find, and were not impressed. We camped in the State Forest campgrounds, but there are no hookups, and most sites would not fit your rig. There are some that would, though, and the parks are nice, like state parks on lakes.
In my work, I was taught by a motor oil engineer at a day long seminar. I specifically asked him about the miles and months thing, "Does oil go bad sitting in an engine?" He said no, it doesn't. The recommendations are just insurance or comfort for the engine manufacturers. Obviously after enough years, there could be some water created by condensation. Although a lot more water is created by running the engine. But anyway, I think you are good to go. Me personally, I would just change the oil and forget about it. No need to flush it.
RV can get really cramped in a hurry. Plus maintenance can be a killer if your not used to it. Consider a park model instead. Cheaper to buy, more living space, less upkeep. Of course you wont be able to move it either. We lived 8 months in our fiver while trying tonfind a house too. Lots of negatives if your parked in one place. Now, if you were full timing and moving every month or so, thats another story
My dad winters in Winter Haven, in a small double-wide senior community. Last year he paid $10,000 for a nice used double-wide on a lot that costs $240 per month. It's a simple, well kept park. Considering the space, the ability to heat and cool easily, having real toilet, shower, and sewer, and the money, I cannot see doing the same in a fiver. Due to death or disability, there are always a handful for sale there. I'm sure it is the same all over central Florida. He says the rent is below market because the owner is satisfied with his tenants and there is no pool, just a simple clubhouse. Even if the rent was $400 per month, this seems like a no-brainer.
The 2250LE is built to a price point. Over time, they have added some things to it. A genset is included, but not a transfer switch. A ladder might not be included, it was not at one time. I forget the other things, but there are several. If you go to the Forest River forums website, there is a thread in the Sunseeker folder about this subject.
If you compare the floor plan of the 2250 to the 2300 (no slide), you'll notice they have virtually the same space. But the 2300 has all the features, plus more exterior storage.
I agree with brirene. I live a little south of Chicago. It would be nice if there was such a bypass, but there really isn't. The detours suggested above are so much longer that they just are not practical to my way of thinking. That said, I do agree with I-39 to I-80; it's not much out of the way. It is hairy to run 90-94 through the city in a car, let alone an RV. I could do it, it's not much different than a lot of big US cities, but it's not fun. I-80 across NW Indiana is very busy but you can just pick a middle lane and cruise on through.
Does anyone have any recommendations for reading and resources for preparing to work with a parent who is beginning to show signs of dementia? Between my wife and I we have at least one for whom we need to do something. And the person is very independent (and stubborn), living alone, still traveling, including wintering in Florida.
Here is my post about my previous one, which uses way less than my current one. I do think this model has been superceded by a new version. It was LP only, and we had a battery powered CO/smoke unit separately.
Low Draw LP detector
There are detectors which use next to nothing. I've checked mine in my current and previous RVs with a multi-meter, and the usage was trivial. Once you find the fuse, you can jump your multi-meter leads across the fuse socket terminals and read the amps being drawn. The circuit might serve more than just the detector, so you'll have to watch for that. My current one draws 0.050a running, with a bit more at startup. So that is 1.2 amps in 24 hours.
If you want to disable it, just find the fuse that it's on, and pull it. Or put a switch in the circuit.
We have the Tailgater and the 211k receiver. We use it just as you propose to do. No problem! It will take ~15 minutes to be ready to go from a cold start, as mentioned already. Maybe a bit less if you haven't moved, because it does seem to retain some of the guide info after power off. Loading the guide info is the most time-consuming part of the start up.
Also, the 211k has an over the air tuner. So you can connect your RV antenna to it, let it scan for locals, and they will be included (somewhat) in your guide, be available for DVR, pause/resume, etc. It's sweet. The 211z doesn't have the tuner, but you can buy one as an accessory. Edit to add, you have to connect an external HD to the 211k to have the DVR features. And pay a one time fee.
We have a 2014 25' Sunseeker 2300 on the Chevy 4500 chassis. The rear does sit higher than the front. We don't have levelers, but use the "lego blocks" instead. We almost always camp at state parks and such. Most of the time the campsite is sloped up or down, and I find a spot on the site that lets us sit level, even if I have to back in. But anyway, if I have to use leveling blocks under the front tires on a perfectly level slab, I only need 2-3" under the front tires.
So I wonder, does your unit need so much lift at the front end because it is lifting the rear end quite a bit during the leveling process? Otherwise, I can't imagine how yours could need the front tires lifted 5" off the ground.
Also, I have used a digital level and discovered that on level ground the slope in our rig from back to front is only about 1 degree. That amount is harmless to the fridge, and insignificant to daily living. My wife and I like having our heads elevated while sleeping, and the rear-high orientation does that. So in real life I rarely raise the front end. Only if we are parked on a site that also slopes down at the front of our rig. I would be very interested to hear what slope there is inside your rig when it is parked but not leveled, on level ground. You could calculate it with a longer level, like 24" or 48", and measure how high off the surface you have to lift the low end of the level to make it read level. Ask here if you need help with the calculations. If you are interested in doing it. :)
I had to work on our step. The manuals are good and will lead you through it. The ground wires at the step are not very well done. If you start with cleaning and or renewing those, that's a good start. If you have specific questions, post them on the Tech Forum and you'll get lots of help.