In my work, I was taught by a motor oil engineer at a day long seminar. I specifically asked him about the miles and months thing, "Does oil go bad sitting in an engine?" He said no, it doesn't. The recommendations are just insurance or comfort for the engine manufacturers. Obviously after enough years, there could be some water created by condensation. Although a lot more water is created by running the engine. But anyway, I think you are good to go. Me personally, I would just change the oil and forget about it. No need to flush it.
RV can get really cramped in a hurry. Plus maintenance can be a killer if your not used to it. Consider a park model instead. Cheaper to buy, more living space, less upkeep. Of course you wont be able to move it either. We lived 8 months in our fiver while trying tonfind a house too. Lots of negatives if your parked in one place. Now, if you were full timing and moving every month or so, thats another story
My dad winters in Winter Haven, in a small double-wide senior community. Last year he paid $10,000 for a nice used double-wide on a lot that costs $240 per month. It's a simple, well kept park. Considering the space, the ability to heat and cool easily, having real toilet, shower, and sewer, and the money, I cannot see doing the same in a fiver. Due to death or disability, there are always a handful for sale there. I'm sure it is the same all over central Florida. He says the rent is below market because the owner is satisfied with his tenants and there is no pool, just a simple clubhouse. Even if the rent was $400 per month, this seems like a no-brainer.
The 2250LE is built to a price point. Over time, they have added some things to it. A genset is included, but not a transfer switch. A ladder might not be included, it was not at one time. I forget the other things, but there are several. If you go to the Forest River forums website, there is a thread in the Sunseeker folder about this subject.
If you compare the floor plan of the 2250 to the 2300 (no slide), you'll notice they have virtually the same space. But the 2300 has all the features, plus more exterior storage.
I agree with brirene. I live a little south of Chicago. It would be nice if there was such a bypass, but there really isn't. The detours suggested above are so much longer that they just are not practical to my way of thinking. That said, I do agree with I-39 to I-80; it's not much out of the way. It is hairy to run 90-94 through the city in a car, let alone an RV. I could do it, it's not much different than a lot of big US cities, but it's not fun. I-80 across NW Indiana is very busy but you can just pick a middle lane and cruise on through.
Does anyone have any recommendations for reading and resources for preparing to work with a parent who is beginning to show signs of dementia? Between my wife and I we have at least one for whom we need to do something. And the person is very independent (and stubborn), living alone, still traveling, including wintering in Florida.
Here is my post about my previous one, which uses way less than my current one. I do think this model has been superceded by a new version. It was LP only, and we had a battery powered CO/smoke unit separately.
Low Draw LP detector
There are detectors which use next to nothing. I've checked mine in my current and previous RVs with a multi-meter, and the usage was trivial. Once you find the fuse, you can jump your multi-meter leads across the fuse socket terminals and read the amps being drawn. The circuit might serve more than just the detector, so you'll have to watch for that. My current one draws 0.050a running, with a bit more at startup. So that is 1.2 amps in 24 hours.
If you want to disable it, just find the fuse that it's on, and pull it. Or put a switch in the circuit.
We have the Tailgater and the 211k receiver. We use it just as you propose to do. No problem! It will take ~15 minutes to be ready to go from a cold start, as mentioned already. Maybe a bit less if you haven't moved, because it does seem to retain some of the guide info after power off. Loading the guide info is the most time-consuming part of the start up.
Also, the 211k has an over the air tuner. So you can connect your RV antenna to it, let it scan for locals, and they will be included (somewhat) in your guide, be available for DVR, pause/resume, etc. It's sweet. The 211z doesn't have the tuner, but you can buy one as an accessory. Edit to add, you have to connect an external HD to the 211k to have the DVR features. And pay a one time fee.
We have a 2014 25' Sunseeker 2300 on the Chevy 4500 chassis. The rear does sit higher than the front. We don't have levelers, but use the "lego blocks" instead. We almost always camp at state parks and such. Most of the time the campsite is sloped up or down, and I find a spot on the site that lets us sit level, even if I have to back in. But anyway, if I have to use leveling blocks under the front tires on a perfectly level slab, I only need 2-3" under the front tires.
So I wonder, does your unit need so much lift at the front end because it is lifting the rear end quite a bit during the leveling process? Otherwise, I can't imagine how yours could need the front tires lifted 5" off the ground.
Also, I have used a digital level and discovered that on level ground the slope in our rig from back to front is only about 1 degree. That amount is harmless to the fridge, and insignificant to daily living. My wife and I like having our heads elevated while sleeping, and the rear-high orientation does that. So in real life I rarely raise the front end. Only if we are parked on a site that also slopes down at the front of our rig. I would be very interested to hear what slope there is inside your rig when it is parked but not leveled, on level ground. You could calculate it with a longer level, like 24" or 48", and measure how high off the surface you have to lift the low end of the level to make it read level. Ask here if you need help with the calculations. If you are interested in doing it. :)
I had to work on our step. The manuals are good and will lead you through it. The ground wires at the step are not very well done. If you start with cleaning and or renewing those, that's a good start. If you have specific questions, post them on the Tech Forum and you'll get lots of help.
RV parks typically don't have a lot of space around you. That's why we prefer public parks and in Arizona you have some very nice choices.
Tucson - Gilbert Ray campground in Tucson Mountain Park
Catalina State Park
Greater Phoenix Area - Maricopa County Parks - Cave Creek, Usery, McDowell Mountain, White Tank, Lake Pleasant. Also Lost Dutchman State park east of Phoenix in Apache Jct. is a real winner.
All the state parks in Arizona are great.
All of the above have huge sites. Many have electric and some even have full hookup sites.
The only downside is that public parks typically have a 14-day limit. However, it's a good chance to test out different areas.
The above would be my answer too. HUGE sites in many cases. The Maricopa County parks are quite deluxe as far as landscaping and site conditions. White Tank is a little less so, but still nice. If you want to be close to good shopping, Cave Creek, Usery, and White Tank are pretty good. You're basically at the edge of the suburbs, but it won't feel like it. McDowell Mtn is a bit more remote and the nearby town is a small very upscale bedroom community. We have not been to Lake Pleasant.
If you can go without hookups and towns, there is a lot of room in the CGs at Roosevelt Lake, east of Phoenix. Pretty cheap too.
We bought a new Sunseeker 2300 on a Chevy 4500 chassis. A lot more room and storage, dedicated queen bed, lots of water capacity, and a good value for the money. It's not as nimble as the TL though.
Yeah, those dinette ends need to be cut down to size. You can pull the staples from the upholstery, then cut the wood down an inch or two. Then re-staple the upholstery. That was next on my list before we sold ours.