I think it depends on when you head for home. If you leave on March 1st, or even April 1st, the weather is probably not that conducive to spending time in between the sun and home. I know we sure want to stay in the sun later than we have been doing. We always fight the weather on the way home and then at home to boot. Got to come up with way to deal with our tax returns while snowbirding.
I may get roasted for this, but...I have found out from doing comparison shopping in So. Ca. that Mike Thompson is over priced. I looked at their ad and could not find the size of the motorhome, only that it has a single slide. For $49,000, I would expect two slides and at least a lenght of 28 feet, plus at least partial paint, not just decals. Just my guess, but it looks kind of small, like 22 to 24 feet. If so, that's a lot of money for that size. Have you compared this motorhome and their price to other dealerships?
You should get roasted. Your stated expectations are way out in left field. Have YOU priced a new Class C?
Re mobility, we have had a 23' x 101" B+, and now a 25' x 101" C. We do all those things you mentioned, like staying at hotels, pulling into McDonalds, driving into tourist towns and parking, etc. I'm not claiming those things are as easy as they would be with a B, but they are not that hard. There is almost always a spot to park off to the side, by the back curb, etc. If not, we are not trapped, we just drive out of the lot and park on the street or whatever. The 101" does not include mirrors. But it fits, like any big truck, lol. I think you would get used to the size issue.
I think the bigger drawback compared to a B would be driving down the road, both in the effects of wind and in MPG. Our B+ (Chevy) got 11-12, and this one (Chevy) gets 10 or so.
I spent some time with the rig this afternoon. Even bought a new digital multimeter to replace the Radio Shack cheapie I was using. I found a few wires which might be considered loose in the battery area, tightened them, and took the following readings:
When I arrived, about a day after giving it a full charge at home, I took a reading at the battery terminals with the battery connected to the rig. 12.3VDC in either position of the BD switch.
Disconnected battery from rig. Same reading at battery terminals: 12.3VDC
Turned on the generator, and measured its output at 128VAC
At the battery, with generator running, 12.4VDC, same as with no generator/converter input.
Disconnected the battery from the rig and measured voltage on the leads: 8.4VDC; this presumably is the output of the converter.
So I can't replicate the scary high 15VDC readings, which may mean I'm less likely to boil the battery. But the 8.4VDC out of the converter is concerning, right?
I'm thinking this suggests a new converter. Any other tests I should do before I go that route?
I would say your converter is not charging for some reason, although you said it is running your 12v systems, which suggest it should be charging. You might have wiring issues between the converter and battery, or issues with the disconnect switch or something else. Measure the voltage at the converter and let us know.
Whatever it is, your battery is toast. 12.3 fully charged means it's been ruined. It will suffice for testing but it has no capacity.
It gets the job done for most common RV use.Except if you even want to do ONE night of boondocking then your batteries are permanently undercharged (cause they never get charged up).
Won't the alternator get the batteries up to snuff on the next long drive, if it happens soon enough after the undercharge?
I had a 2005 TL 211 B+. It's a TPO roof. It's an excellent material, but most sealants and adhesives won't adhere well. There is a Dicor product made specifically for TPO, but also their normal lap sealants will adhere.
I used Eternabond tape on the front seam, and Dicor non-sag lap sealant on the side edges.
Here is my post on it.
You might want to read a couple of pages before and after that post too. Actually, take some time when you get around to it to read the entire huge thread. It's mostly about Trail Lite B+'s.
It's a good price. If you have multiple dealers to play against each other, you might get it down a bit more. We bought our 2014 Sunseeker 2300 for just a hair more than that. It has a higher MSRP than the 2250/51LE, and in that particular model the Sunseeker and Forester are identical. In other models the Forester is more upscale.
Not looking for answers, just thought I'd post the drawing of my poor stock setup. I have improvement plans. :)
The highlight is 28' of #6 wire and 3' of #2 from the converter to the batteries. Can you say voltage drop?
I don't have a photo, but I cut a piece of aluminum soffit material and riveted it to the hatch to cover up the existing slot. Before doing that I cut a slot in the aluminum, just large enough for the cord.
1. Measurements -- I reported "With external power and the battery disconnect switch in "use" position, there's 7.8V coming out of the converter into the battery. Same using generator power.In the "store" position, there's 15.7V. " These measurements are taken at the battery position, with the cables disconnected from the battery. This, I thought, would show me the output from the converter. Yes?
Are those measurements at the battery or the converter? Because no matter how messed up the converter might be, you should not be seeing 15.7v at the battery in the Store position. Now if it is at the converter, then maybe only the converter is bad.
2. When the Battery Disconnect switch ( Intellitec BD) js in the "store" position, the electric step still functions. All other 12V systems that I can find are off. Normal?
The step is probably wired to the chassis side, which is the best practice IMO. But no, if the converter is running, it should be providing the 12v for those other systems while the battery is disconnected via the switch.
4. I'm satisfied that the automatic cutover from shore power to generator is working. Is there any reason why I can't test this using generator power. I can do that in the storage yard, as opposed to driving the thing to a friend's house.
Yes, the generator power will be fine as a replacement for shore power.
Looks like I didn't save my photos, but I had the same thing on my Trail Lite B+. I had a welder fabricate a second battery tray, hung from the frame with straps similar to the first one. AGMs would be perfect for that setup.
PS, I had to go back and have him add braces across the straps except for the side we left open to pass the battery through. Without braces it was too wobbly with the weight of the battery hanging in it. Eventually it would have cracked somewhere.
I accelerate slowly, and am getting good at coasting up to stops and turns. That helps the town mileage a lot.
I only have a reset-able running average MPG readout, but it is accurate. When I've filled up and then driven in town for a while before getting to a highway, the MPG will be 12+. This is not city stoplight-type driving, but town highways with occasional stops or turns, going say 40 MPH. When we are out onto the highway, that town average starts dropping. I can't quote MPGs at various highway speeds, but I do get 10 or 10+ at 65 in calm level conditions. One of these days I will get results for 55 and 60. Based on limited observations, I would expect to see the 11's under 60. We only have 4700 miles on it so far.