For $600-1000, I highly recommend people just get the SRW 1-ton for 800-1500 pounds more payload over 3/4 ton.
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While that might be the difference on paper, the difference on the a dealer's lot is a whole lot more. In AZ the large number of 2500 series on the lots are discounted off MSRP a whole lot more than the few 3500 series trucks on those same lots. Pick any brand you choose, it seems to be the same story. If you order then you will forgo some of those "dealer" discounts, so the decision becomes a bit harder than just a few hundred dollars.
FWIW, my 2500 has a payload of 2468, just like the OP indicated. It does our family just fine and we are not overloaded. We did a 4000 mile trip with our TT this summer traveling to Rushmore, Yellowstone, Zion and home. TT handled just fine and with the stuff in the bed we carried I would not have wanted a 5th wheel.You picked the right truck for the job. The 2500 trucks are made just for pulling bumper pull travel trailers! :)
I have two F350's, one single rear wheel and one dually. Ratings are as follows-
F+R GAWR's = 13,250
DMV registered weight is 15,000
sum of rear tire/wheel capcities is 10,000
F+R GAWR's = 10,734
DMV registered weight is 10,000
sum of rear tire/wheel capacities is 7,500
I have had both of them loaded to the sum of their front and rear axle weight ratings, as well as loaded up to their GVWR's, scale-verified.
I will tell you this, on both trucks, the brakes still work fine when loaded up to the GVWR, but the brakes really SUCK when loaded up to the sum of the axle ratings. These trucks are just simply NOT designed to weigh that much.
So, even though I am entirely legal to load the trucks up to their registered weights, which I chose the limits of when I registered them, as well as load the rear axles up to the sums of the rear tire's load capacities, it is a bad idea, and a poor plan, to load them that heavy.
My next truck will be a Ford L8000, with 26,000 GVWR!
Those are pretty good mileage figures for a V10 running empty. The towing mileages isn't surprising.
I recently did a trip with both of my F350's running together.
-'97, 7.3 diesel E4OD auto/od, 4wd dually with 4.10's and 235 tires.
-'92, 351 gas C6 auto/no od, 4wd srw with 4.56's and 285 tires.
The diesel truck was loaded and towing, 20,000 lbs combined gvw.
The gas truck was running bobtail with minor weight in the bed, 7500 lbs gvw.
Both trucks ran together, same speed and route the whole trip. I drove the diesel and paced my son, who followed behind me in the gas truck. I drove at what I know to be the optimum freeway mileage speed for the gas truck: 55 mph.
Both trucks have dual 20 gallon tanks. Both trucks started the trip with 2 full tanks on each truck. We stopped together at the same gas stations on the way, and at the destination. I topped off the tanks on both trucks each time.
I found I was putting right about the same amount of gas in the one truck as I was diesel in the other one, each time. Amazing how they can get roughly equal gas/fuel mileage, all other factors being equal (speed, hills, wind, driving style, etc), when one was moving almost 3 times the weight that the other was moving!
Diesel really is awesome :B
You'll have to get something a little older then, if you want a slide and only spend $15K.
I would just eliminate the slide requirement.
You already have a nice, large, comfy 5th wheel for longer term use.
Make the truck camping experience a small, easy to use, back country RV and go with something smaller than a big slide model, and spend less money at the same time. :)
Almost ALL of the camper's loaded wet weight is carried by the truck's rear axle. Most bigger campers have their center of gravity located not very far ahead of the truck's rear axle. Then most of the storage areas are toward the rear of the camper, so weight of gear loaded in camper ends up behind the truck's axle. This moves the actual, fully loaded center of gravity position further to the rear, than stated by the camper manufacturer.
So, assume that all of the campers loaded weight is carried by the rear axle and add that loaded camper weight number to whatever the empty truck's rear axle weighs (minimum 3000 lbs), and that is the minimum the truck's loaded rear axle will weigh.
If you pull a trailer, the trailer's tongue weight is also carried by the truck's rear axle.
Also, realize that weight of people and gear in the cab of the truck is carried partially by the rear axle and partially by the front axle, since the cab is positioned between both axles.
I don't know why it is that RV'rs have a fixation with thinking they have to only buy the smallest possible truck, to pull the biggest possible trailer. Just get the right size truck. The dually doesn't cost much more than the 3/4-ton, similarly optioned. A thousand or two difference in price on a truck that costs $45-$60K, is peanuts.
TACO: You're right.
Perrysburg: I'm fairly sure that what you mean by your comment is that XX is going to come on here and say blah blah those specs are garbage. I tow my monster 5th wheel with an older truck, with lower ratings. Everything is fine. Tow the 15k'er with the 3/4.
I value my belongings. If I get into an accident, I don't want my insurance to kick me to the curb. I don't want to risk getting fined. I don't want my family or anyone else on the road to get hurt. I don't want to pay someone for the rest of my life because of improper towing.
To the naysayers, to those that say these numbers are baloney, how can you argue against them successfully in a court of law? If a lawyer ran the numbers, they would have you by the balls.
By the way, I'm military and move every 2-4 years. Home is NH. Just moved to CA from FL. So, I drive ALOT. 5'er is the only way for me. I'm not pulling a travel trailer for 3000mi, even with a WD hitch.Ok.. so dont worry about the 3/4-ton, you don't have to buy it. Get the one-ton and be happy with it.
Ford changed the cab height way back in '99. The cab heights for Fords haven't changed since '99, that I'm aware of.
Dodge changed theirs in '03. I believe GM changed theirs in '02, or possibly '07.
Camper manufacturers started raising the overcab heights shortly thereafter.
So as long as you're buying a new, or near-new camper, it is very likely that it will fit your truck's cab height fine, without needing a riser platform in the bed. If it doesn't, you can lay some 2x4's down on the bed before loading the camper and that will likely be enough to clear the cab.
He's talking about a 2007 truck, not a 2011 or later. That truck was made long before anybody, except Ford, was spec'ing over 6000 lb RGAWR's for 3/4-ton pickups, or over 10K GVWR's for SRW 1-tons.
He needs a Dually, in that year of truck, with the diesel and 4wd and bigger cab size, to have the payload/rear axle capacity to carry the camper, plus aftermarket flatbed, plus storage boxes, plus etc, etc, that he wants to carry....
I have several hazardous/flammable tanks/containers in my shop/garage, including-
other various lubricating oils
other various cleaning products
There have also been cars/trucks, motorcycles, atv's, generators, chain saw, etc, that have gasoline or gas/oil mix in their fuel tanks and cabuerators, parked or kept in the garage at various times.
This includes the previous places I've lived, as well as the current place.
Several years now and I haven't blown the place up yet :)
Lowering the axle ratio lowers the OVERALL ratio, in every gear the transmission has. This means that torque is multiplied by a greater factor in EVERY gear in the transmission, not just in the one transmission gear you dropped into.
Doesn't matter if you have a 3 speed, 4 speed, 5 speed, 6 speed, or 10 speed transmission. Lowering the axle ratio means the WHOLE transmission ratio set is suitable for towing, not just the bottom 2 or 3 or 4 gears.
I wouldn't want to spend $30K, $40K or more on a new truck with a fancy 6-speed tranny and a high axle ratio, just to end up with a truck that, effectively, has only a 3-speed when towing, because the top 3 gears are useless, because the axle ratio, and therefore the overall ratio, in the top 3 gears is too high. That would really suck! :(
My F350 dually cab/chassis truck's rear tires are 87" wide, if memory serves me right. My dually has a narrower rear axle than an F350 dually pickup of the same year/body range. The flat bed on my truck is the standard 8 feet wide.
The utility body I have on my flat bed dually is about 7 feet wide. The flat bed is 8 feet wide. I have a completely different kind of jacks for my utility body, but the front pair of jacks do clear the 8 foot wide bed just fine.
Standard camper jacks on swing outs can be widened to clear your flat bed. Any local welding shop should be able to widen the brackets for you.