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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: HWH Fluid?

Wow, thanks for all the responses, I posted this inquiry...
So the consensus is I will use Dextron III, found out from a reply above that apparently they don't make II any more, silly me... and I know it has red dye in it, that's ok for me.
The reason I need to add some fluid is one of the hose fittings leaks at the hose manifold next to the pump. Just a few drips per use, not continuously, not when camping nor when in storage. Decided it would be easier to just add fluid once a year than tear it all apart, new hoses, etc to get the one fitting to seal perfectly.
The fitting is really tough to get to because seems like ~18 or more lines (memory is bad...) all thread into a single hose manifold in a grid pattern roughly 3 rows high and 6 columns across, each hose about 1" apart. The valves are on the opposite side of the manifold. The fitting leaks at the threaded joint, not the crimp on the hose. I've tried to tighten the best I could, I even got a right-angle crow's foot adaptor for my socket set and ground it down to fit in the tight spacing, but it still drips, argh. All I can assume is when originally assembled that they started on one side and worked their way across the manifold with an open ended torque wrench. It would be impossible to torque them properly otherwise. And of course the fitting that is leaking is one nested inbetween others.
My slide has to be out to access the fluid reservoir and I agree I beleive it recirculates the slide fluid back to the reservoir. I will, however, make sure to have all my jacks up when filling! :-)
I appreciate everyone's help, many thanks again...
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TC&Z
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04/01/13 11:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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HWH Fluid?

I searched and found mixed results, I can't remember, I have a 07 Winn with HWH levling jacks, to add fluid do I use Dextron II or Dextron III ?
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TC&Z
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03/31/13 03:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Winnebago Wipers Won't Stop

We have a gas front engine Winn 07 Voyage 38J, on the Work Horse chassis.
Last weekend we returned from a camping trip, it was raining on the way back so we were using our windeshield wipers. Problem is it stopped raining but when I turned off the wipers they just kept running. I fiddled with the control handle (wiper is integrated in turn signal arm with cruise control too...) for a loose connection with no luck. I pulled over and turned off the engine. But when I started up they came back on. No matter what I tried I could not get them to stop. They ran all the way back home. I checked them 2 days later and NOW they are off like they are supposed to be.
Has anyone encountered this? Any suggestions? Not sure where to start checking....
Thanks in advance, appreciate your feedback...
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TC&Z
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01/13/13 09:22am |
Class A Motorhomes
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How are batteries connected?

We have a 07 Winn Voyage. Our house batteries are old and have begun weeping and I plan to replace them but I also want to make sure they are not being overcharged. I thought I understood how all the systems are interconnected but when I began checking the wiring diagrams on the Winn site and the connections in the battery box it is different than I'd thought. I want to post and welcome your feedback, especially if I'm incorrect...
When connected to shore power the converter is charging the house batteries even if the batt disoonnect is OFF.
When connected to shore power does the converter also charge the engine battery when batt disconnect is ON? Connections in the battery box appear that way.
When driving does the engine altenator charge the engine battery? I assume it does. Does it charge the house batteries too? Appears to be connected that way. The isolated post in the batt box has the output from the house batt solenoid tied to the engine batt and the starter.
Winn has lots of wiring diagrams but I wish they had a schematic...
Thanks
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TC&Z
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11/17/12 10:10am |
Tech Issues
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Best Big Rig Route to Cedar Mtn NC

We have a 38 ft class A towing a vehicle. We are in Westminster, SC. In a few weeks we plan (hope) to go to Cedar Mountain NC.
We've been warned we should not use Route 276 north of Greenville SC due to steep grade and switch backs through the Mountain Bridge Wilderness area to get to Cedar Mountain NC.
I am considering a parallel route further West, Hwy 178 to Hwy 64.
Has anyone driven this? I wish there was a website that included contour elevation too. All I look for is lots of squiggles that let me know it is a windy mountain road with switch backs but I have no idea how steep the climbs are.
The only other option is to go South and make a big CCW loop and approach from the East. This entails going South to I-85 to Spartanburg, North to Hendersonville, then West to Cedar Mountain. This adds about 3 hours to the trip time. But I'm more than willing to do this if the roads are not hospitable.
Appreciate any comments or suggestions... many thanks...
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TC&Z
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10/25/12 06:37am |
General RVing Issues
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Ok to use Optima for House Battery?

Our Winn MH came with two NAPA Stowaway #8240 house batteries. These are now 5 yrs old and I need to replace them and am considering the Optima blue top D34. We do a lot of dry camping at festivals and such so am looking to upgrade. I searched RV.net and found many posts but most were discussing whether to get an Optima charger too. Am I missing something? I am assuming I can replace the house batts with the Optima D34s and they will be fine charging off of the MH's systems just like the NAPA batts.
Please comment on both experience with Optima batts and whether there are any charging concerns?
Thanks
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TC&Z
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10/20/12 08:13am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Valve Extender or Air Hose Suspect

I searched and did not find anything posted...
I have an inner rear 22.5 MH tire that is slowly losing air. I have to top it off at the beginning of each trip. I suspect the air hose valve extender and am considering replacing it. I plan to replace both rear inner tires hoses while I'm at it.
My question is are these lines pressurized when on the road? When you install the valve extender hoses do you remove the orginal wheel's valve stem? Or do you leave the orginal wheel's valve stem in-place and does the valve extender have an internal actuator that presses in the original valve stem when adding air?
I assume (hope) this is something I can do without removing the tires, correct? I assume I can remove the existing hose and feed the new hose in through the outside rim and thread onto the inner wheel's stem, correct?
Further, when replacing, I assume all the air comes out of the tire and it must be fully re-inflated. Do I need to worry about the tire popping off of the rim when no pressure, the tire losing its seal to the rim?
Also, what are the pros & cons of replacement air hoses? Any preferences I should be aware of? I want to have peace of mind.
Appreciate your help, thanks in advance...
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TC&Z
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09/04/12 07:59am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Freezer Temp Low - but not low enough

I beleive the freezer temp should be 0 degF but is actually 15 degF.
I believe this has occurred gradually, nor really sure.
I'm measuring the freezer chamber adjacent to the ice maker.
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TC&Z
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08/28/12 07:23am |
General RVing Issues
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Freezer Temp Low - but not low enough

We have a RV Norcold 4-door refrig/freezer with ice maker. The refrig temp is perfect but the freezer temp is about 10 deg higher than it should be, ice doesn't melt but doesn't freeze/make either. Performance doesn't change from shore power to LP. Performance doesn't change based on the temp setting, the 1-9 adjustment.
I checked the door gaskets and seal and all seems ok. Not clear how to make the seal tigher even if I wanted to. The hardware does not seem to allow for any adjustment. Am I missing something?
Any suggestions of what to do/check next?
Always fixin something - thanks...
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TC&Z
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08/24/12 08:03am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: How to Remove A/C to Inspect/Repair

Wanted others to benefit from my findings, thanks to the great reference above I removed the A/C unit without any problems. It is very heavy so be prepared!
I discovered that my problem was the fan cage had moved on the motor shaft hitting the housing. I had to disassemble to get to it but the repair was just repositioning, tightening the set screw and added a drop of locktite.
The larger benefit is by having the unit out I discovered that there was lots of lint and dust on the intake evaporator coil. This is despite using and maintaining the motor home's air filter. I used coil cleaner to clean this up. Further I used window weather stripping and made a gasket for the motor home air filter to try to prevent lint and dust from sneaking through.
If you feel your unit is not cooling like it should and if the output is the proper temperature then perhaps you have an air flow problem like ours.
Really appreciate the information this website provides. It's tough maintaining our motor home and this site provides excellent guidance to help me.
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TC&Z
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07/21/12 06:38am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How to Remove A/C to Inspect/Repair

Many thanks to Gonnacall above, he referred me to an excellent reference, here's the link for other's benefit
Procedure for Servicing Basement Units
Further, I suspect that my noise problem is the exact same that the author of the link had on his rig, either bad bearings or a loose fan cage hub.
Many Thanks!!!
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TC&Z
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07/10/12 03:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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How to Remove A/C to Inspect/Repair

We have a 07 Winn Voyage 38J with a 2 ton Coleman central air A/C unit mounted at basement level, model 6535-871 It has a problem when the compressor cuts off the fan hits something a few times before it stops. It makes a racket and I worry that it may be damaging something - what's it hitting?
So I need to remove the unit to open it up and check it out. There are no service access panels available in its present location. I checked internet and found a great service manual but it is silent on the installation, says that's unique to each application and left up to the coach builder.
Best I can tell there are two big bolts in steel rails underneath and somehow you remove and lower the unit to access. The electrical conduit even appear to have a service loop to make this possible. The output and return air ducts appear to attach to the unit with flanges that separate somehow.
Does any one have tips/instructions how to do this or know where I should look?
Thanks in advance...
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TC&Z
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07/09/12 06:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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What's the Maker for Replc Parts

We have a 07 Winn on a Work Horse Chassis. The horn has gone bad and I need to replace. I'm hopeful to find a replacement part with same connector style so I don't have to splice wiring. When I go the auto parts store what maker or brand is Work Horse? Ford? Chysler? Other?
Thanks
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TC&Z
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06/29/12 05:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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