Check the DC brushes. If they are not making good contact with the rings. It will be hard to start. If you remove the band on the gensection. The DC brushes are the ones towards the engine. Kpack has it right sorta. Takes a big fooken battery to crank it.
Thanks forgot about that one. That plug is where the gov shaft goes through. On engines with the normal gov. With electronic gov. Shaft is not needed. So they plugged it. Should have used some sealer with the plug.
When you turn off the main engine. Does the generator shut off at the same time.Or does it run a little longer.Is it being served battery power through the switch. Sounds like you are losing control voltage.
Stay out of discount tire. Bought some tires from them. One blew apart for no reason and the other was coming apart. No warranty. Told me it was my fault.I have 35 years on the road so I know a little about taking care of tires. Forget the rubber valve stems. Get the metal ones.
Thanks MR Wizard. That is exactly what I ment. Shut down a unit under a heavy load. You get this. Demand is there but power is dropping. So regulator goes into a boost mode trying to keep up with demand. So unless regulator has roll off protection it burns out. Cost money to replace.
Run it at least a half hour a week. Don't let it set for months. If you are on the road and only crank it when you need it each day. You will be ok.Just don't start it or stop it under load. You will burn out the voltage regulator.
Have someone that knows what they are doing. Hook it up for you. Be sure it meets code for your city. Because if it doesn't and the insurance company finds out. Guess what insurance canceled and the power company could pull your meter. I have seen it done.
You need to change both plugs.Since it is a low hour unit. I would check the fuel supply system. There was a problem a few years back. With oil from the propane tanks getting into the system gumming everything up.