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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???

No. 'Technically', an 'inverter' changes direct current to alternating current: inverter
You are correct that 'converter' is a made-up term. But, the 120VAC-to-12VDC device in your RV is most definitely not, by any real definition of the term, an inverter. You could call it a rectifier, if you like, but not an inverter.
Hi TBLMSN,
The technically correct term for a converter is an inverter. That's all. Converter is a "made up term" for RV's. It is nothing more than a fancied up power supply. A battery charger, if you would rather use that term. I agree a converter lowers the voltage and turns AC into DC (often with ripple and on a poor unit some AC leakage).
I also agree that inverters can do the opposite and take 12 volts DC, turn it into AC and raise the voltage.
Hi cycletwo,
Strictly speaking a converter is an inverter--but in RV land is always called a converter. When you call, get the make and model of the converter.
There are some inverter/chargers out there.
????????
Converter: 120VAC -> 12VDC
Inverter: 12VDC - > 120VAC
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TMBLSN
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11/24/12 06:51pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Handy Hints, Gadgets, Products & Gizmos

Are we done now? This firestarter conversation has really hijacked an otherwise useful thread.
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TMBLSN
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11/14/12 01:37pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???

Hi cycletwo,
Strictly speaking a converter is an inverter--but in RV land is always called a converter. When you call, get the make and model of the converter.
There are some inverter/chargers out there.
????????
Converter: 120VAC -> 12VDC
Inverter: 12VDC - > 120VAC
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TMBLSN
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11/14/12 01:24pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Reasonable new RV furniture

x2
I have used this vendor,they have a lot of stuff,Made especially for RVs and it is well made.
Discountvantruck
They have a large selection and it is reasonably priced and of good quality.
Good Luck I hope this helps.
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TMBLSN
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10/24/12 11:52am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: B+ motorhomes

Permanent sags are difficult to correct. If you have some of that 1x2, that you used for the frame, laying around, then just slap in a couple of ribs.
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TMBLSN
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10/18/12 05:25pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: B+ motorhomes

You could just use some 1x2 (or even 2x2) 'ribs', glued and screwed to the underside of the plywood. This will help prevent sagging. 2 or 3 ribs should be plenty. I'd probably go with 3, evenly spaced.
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TMBLSN
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10/18/12 10:38am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Our Motorhome Remodel With Pictures And Updates

Ours isn't quite that bad. I've seen the class B's with the shower in the aisle and the drain in the floor. The Era does have a separate bath, yes a wet bath, but the shower and drain are not in the aisle. The drain is inside the bathroom and the shower curtain is also inside the bathroom....but you do need to keep the bathroom doors open to shower if you are a normal sized person;).
Even with it all contained in one room, my wife doesn't like the whole bathroom being wet. The floor stays wet, you step in it to use the toilet, either with bare feet or dirty shoes. We had a wet bath in a truck camper.
Your new counter is awesome. I don't understand, though, why so many manufacturers seem to be putting the kitchen (and thus large window area) on the driver side, so that you can see someone else's campsite.
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TMBLSN
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09/25/12 11:57am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Handy Hints, Gadgets, Products & Gizmos

This is a fantastic topic...
should be a forum... hint hint
It is: DIY
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TMBLSN
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09/25/12 11:50am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Our Motorhome Remodel With Pictures And Updates

A wet bath is when the bath contains the sink, toilet, and shower all in one space. Imagine a shower stall with a toilet and sink in it.
A dry bath is when the sink and toilet are not in the shower - as found in most US motorhomes and trailers.
Yep. If you could figure out how to put a dry bath (and not put a drain in the middle of the aisle with shower curtains) then I'd be able to consider this class of RV. The straight-sided Sprinter is an awesome foot-print. But, the wet-bat is a nonstarter for my wife.
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TMBLSN
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09/19/12 04:00pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Our Motorhome Remodel With Pictures And Updates

Now, just figure out how to turn your wet-bath into a dry-bath and you'll have a really nice RV.
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TMBLSN
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09/14/12 06:23pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Must Have Boondocking Survival Items?

I'm a newbie here and just to keep this thread active....
Therefore, I would never, ever think of using sets of 2 volt or 6 volt batteries in my TT because of 1 simple fact. Batteries die.
You need more 6V batteries. I have four. I don't think that I'll lose 3 at a time.
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TMBLSN
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08/13/12 09:02am |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Avion camper rebuilds - dozens of photos

Here are some pictures of my stabilzer jacks. I made mounts that keep them high so that I don't lose ground clearance.
Nice stabilizer, but you really need a cordless drill, a socket and one of these:
http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/pdswt.hfuvz/v/vspfiles/photos/585-3567841C-2.jpg
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TMBLSN
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08/09/12 02:41pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???

Hi,
Dropped it off to the storage place for some time. No trips planned at the moment.
I hope you don't need to pick it up on a holiday! ;)
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TMBLSN
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08/08/12 06:51pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Handy Hints, Gadgets, Products & Gizmos

Our neighbors at the CG this past weekend had the stainless steel wine glasses. I think they are a great alternative to breakable glass. I am thinking about getting a set.
wouldnt that quickly transfer the heat from your hand to the wine and bruise the wine?
There is a dent in your glass.
Yes, it would warm the wine, if you filled it like a beer glass. If, however, you fill it below the thumb 'dent', then you would not warm your wine. The picture of the product shows a 'full' glass of wine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6v6EP-1Su_c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1Cdxu33L6g&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYMAujaPAsg&feature=related
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TMBLSN
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08/08/12 12:05pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Handy Hints, Gadgets, Products & Gizmos

We prefer stemless:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51oy4By0PbL._SY450_.jpg
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TMBLSN
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08/08/12 10:25am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???

Hi,
I thought I'd return it to storage--oops! It is a provincial holiday.
???
Do they close all the roads on holidays?
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TMBLSN
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08/06/12 01:33pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: TV Wall Mounts

LevelMount is my preference.
It is removable. Most of the bracket is attached to the TV and it quickly connects/disconnects from the wall bracket. I have multiple wall brackets so that I can move the TV around (inside RV, outside RV, garage, deck, etc.).
www.levelmount.com
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TMBLSN
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08/01/12 12:41pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Cool Mods - Thread restored 10/18/2012

Here are a couple of mods.
...
When I had my fresh water tank built I added a second inlet so I could fill the tank from a valve inside the trailer when connected to the city water connection.
http://thevap.com/images/webposts/tankfill.jpg
This is a great mod. I did this on my previous rig, but haven't had time to install this on my current rig.
I like this, especially for showers. When connected to City Water, the pressure regulator restricts the flow too much. I like to turn on the pump to supplement that water with tank water for a good shower. However, this drains the fresh tank. Rather than deal with hoses to fill the tank, just open the valve and fill the tank from inside, where you can monitor the tank level.
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TMBLSN
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07/25/12 09:47am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Show your mods!!

No, they are not low at all, the pic is deceiving, I wouldn't have installed them to have them ripped off :S
There must be a reason that they extend beyond the valve?
Why even have a pipe on the outlet side of the valve?
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TMBLSN
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06/22/12 01:07pm |
Hybrid Travel Trailers
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RE: Driving with refer on propane

Huh?!?
'Disperse' is not 'leak'. 'Disperse' is the antonym of 'collect'. (in case you are unclear about antonym, it means opposite)
To disperse means that the propane would quickly spread, vanish, disappear (disperse).
(deleted very sarcastic comment)
"The problem with this argument is that the propane is in a confined space within a tunnel, it can't disperse. Even if an LP line were to break, the propane would disperse VERY fast and the chance of fire is VERY minimal. Unless, of course, you can point to a DOCUMENTED case to the contrary."
Your statement makes no sense. First you say in the tunnel it can't disperse, of course it can. Break one of your LP lines with the valve at the cylinder open and you will be dispersing propane big time.
Then you say just the opposite:
"Even if an LP line were to break, the propane would disperse VERY fast and the chance of fire is VERY minimal."
Propane dispersed under pressure into an accident scene is a fire waiting to happen. Will it happen every time? I doubt it. Can it happen? You betcha! Now if I am so wrong in guessing that this is why all of the major tunnels prohibit open propane cylinders (and I certainly could be wrong here), then tell me why they do. I'd really like to know and once again no one has answered my original question:
Why do you comply with the propane prohibitions/restrictions in tunnels and not in gas stations?
It's not keeping me awake nights but I really do wonder as it just makes no sense to me (but hey, lots of things make no sense to me). :? If somebody has an answer I would love to hear it. If your propane systems are so safe why not just ignore the rules in tunnels? It sounds like just selective compliance but there must be a better reason than that. :h
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TMBLSN
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06/20/12 05:35pm |
General RVing Issues
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