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RE: 2010 Ford F150 Max Tow - 2009 Chevrolet 2500 HD
Be careful with the tow rating on an F150. I just window sticker shopped for 10 minutes this weekend. All the F150 (XLT), crew cab, short short box, 3.55 gears, that I would want for a daily driver, are rated for 7200#. That isn't going to cut it, for any TT I want to tow, let alone a 5er. And only 18 MPG rating.
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The 2010 F150 Super Crew, 2WD, 4.6L with 3.55 has an 21 MPG estimate and Std. towing rated at 7200#.
The 2010 F150 Super Crew, with a 5.4L and 3.73 shows to have a 20 MPG estimate. The later with the Max Tow package will tow 11,300#
I have the later, and it's not broke in yet, but I'm seeing 24.5 MPG at 60, 20.6 MPG at 70 mph, and 18.6 MPG at 75 MPH, Flat ground.
I also have the 2500 HD with 4.10's and it gets 11 MPG at 75 MPH. It's only a 4 speed though, rides rougher, but pulls good.
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Takereasy
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10/28/09 03:25pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: P-30 front springs
Bill, Like you, I've done many times over the years (using 2 hammers) but man, I guess I didn't think there was enough room in there, either that or I was afraid was would tear something up :)
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Takereasy
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10/25/09 03:58pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: P-30 front springs
Wow,while searching my post I had no idea that I use to comment so much :)
Step by Step by Cousin Eddie:
Here
And another....
Here
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Takereasy
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10/23/09 03:02pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: P-30 front springs
Forget thepickle fork !!! Too much work !!!.
Take two 1/2" bolts and screw them into a nut. Make sure they fit between the upper and lower ball joints nice and snug. With the lower ball joint nut backed off a few turns but not all the way off, put the double 1/2 bolts between the Upper BJ and Lower BJ. Use two 3/4 wrenches to slowly unscrew the two bolts, it doesn't take much and it will pop the lower BJ loose. You leave the nut on there so it doesn't shoot out and hurt you.
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Takereasy
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10/23/09 02:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: P-30 front springs
Thanks, about a year ago I put in new air bags. As usual I searched this forum for advice. One guy said he just took the springs out rather than try to squeeze the bag out of that little hole and the new ones back in. I actually found the bag replacement easy without removing the spring. My point is that thiat guy made spring removal / installation sound easy. It just doesn't look easy to me.
I do plan on using Henderson springs and doing away with the air bags.
Thanks again.
Dat was most likely me, To the OP, Springs are easy on this beast. I'll try and search for the post but I just unhook the shock, and knock loose the lower ball joint (with a jack holding it) and the mh on stands. Then I slowly let down the jack and relax the spring. I can't remember, but I think it was 1.5 or 2 hrs for both sides. Search for post from TakeEasy.
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Takereasy
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10/23/09 02:47pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: turning captured rotors on rear of P-32 MH
I've been quoted $450 for new rotors and seals. $525 for labor. Each side rated 3 hours labor. OUCH! Still checking for better price.
Are the rotors so bad they have to replace them? The entire job isn't even 3 hours!!!
Richard
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Takereasy
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10/08/09 06:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Here's one way to level it out...
I think it's time to put some fresh white paint back on the tires since the old stuff is about to wear off. :)
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Takereasy
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09/09/09 05:51am |
Tech Issues
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RE: turning captured rotors on rear of P-32 MH
I just removed mine and had them turned. I figured as old as it was that it would be a good time to clean the axle tubes, change Diff oil, inspect bearings and gears. Now of course, I did my own work so it only cost me for oil seals, oil, and pads.
As far as the statement, a good time, I was referring to calendar time, not a Wha Who Good time.
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Takereasy
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08/20/09 12:24pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: onan gen clicking
My 7.5 has always made a fast clicking noise since I owned it. It had 45 hrs when I got it and 300 hrs now. I wonder if it's something like brushes causing the clicking?
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Takereasy
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08/18/09 06:00am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Confused About Toilet Height
I went thru the same ordeal. I instead, removed the platform since it was just a few screws. I marked the platform where I needed it's height to be and checked to make sure the plumbing, tank, and everything else would still be hidden. I then set my table saw up the amount I wanted to remove and cut the bottom off my platform.
I did have several inches of wall that you could tell was different plus a few screw holes. What I did there was before I put the platform back in, I added a plywood back splash or wall trim then covered it.
Sounds like a lot of work but it took a couple of hours for the entire job. My MH toilet is the same height as my home toilet now. I did go with the low profile Bravia?
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Takereasy
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07/17/09 08:21am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 1996 Southwind 36' from $20K to $18K '-should I do it?
1996 it's most likely a V8. Isn't the breaking manifold bolt problem a V10 issue?
The 460 has manifold warping issues too........many of us have solved that problem with the addition of headers........
All the large big blocks have their occassional exhaust manifold issues including Chevy. There are no telling how many cracked manifolds I've changed over the years on All the Big Three trucks.
There are lots of tricks and tips that help reduce the warping, cracking, and blown gaskets. I remember when headers were a constant challenge keeping them tight and leak free.
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Takereasy
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07/11/09 05:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Shore Power
Several ways, but I tend to measure the battery voltage without shore power then with shore power with a small load turned on like a light or two.
Depending on your converter and your current battery charge you should have around 1 to 1.5 volts more when plugged in. I think typically you will see around 12.5 to 12.8 volts with no converter and around 13.5 to 13.8 with the converter charging.
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Takereasy
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06/24/09 05:07am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 1992 P30 A/C cut out switch logic.
Gale, Are you sure yours uses an orifice tube? Mine although it's a little newer uses a traditional Expansion valve. Generally there are 2 or three switches. Low Pressure Cutout which is normally closed when there is enough pressure on it and open in shelf state, so its called a normally Open.
The other is a high pressure cutout and I've seen them combined as well as separate for the electric fan. The High Pressure Cutout is normally closed and when too much pressure builds up it opens, turning off the compressor.
The fan Switch is usually normally open, and when it hits it's magic number (pressure) it closes, turning on the fan reducing the Head pressure.
From what your describing, it's mounted on the condensor coil or right next to it on the drier?
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Takereasy
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06/23/09 06:11am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Shore Power
The inverter/converter is the electronic box that is close to the house batteries and supplies 110 volt power to your RV from the 12 volt house batteries. Your shore power cord also connects to this inverter/converter to recharge the house batteries.
The "Converter" takes 120 volts from the shore power and converts it to nominal 12 vdc to charge your batteries and power your 12 volt appliances and lights.
An "Inverter" which is optional equipment (on most rigs) takes 12 vdc and inverts it to 120 volts AC to power your 120 volt appliances from the batteries when you are not hooked up to shore power or generator.
They may be or may not be located near your batteries. My batteries are in the front and my "converter" is located mid section in the electrical bay.
Richard
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Takereasy
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06/23/09 05:49am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Trailer Wiring on Chevy Truck
Thanks to all for the great information. I will move the trailer cabin lights over to the Battery Charge terminal. I don't like it going to the center terminal.
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Takereasy
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06/09/09 04:58am |
Tech Issues
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Trailer Wiring on Chevy Truck
I have a 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 with Towing package and 7 pin trailer plug. It does not have 12 volts on the Battery Pin, and nothing on the Center Aux terminal of the trailer plug in.
My trailer uses the Aux. Terminal to charge the battery and run the 12 volts in the trailer when plugged in rather than the 12 volt terminal.
The Truck manual has no information on the trailer wiring other than fuse locations.
Now, Honestly, I have not had time to shutdown and tear into it but I was wondering if the these two terminals are already wired up and I need to do something on the fuse box (Like when you add brakes) or if these indeed need to be wired into the plug.
Has someone already dealt with this yet?
Thanks,
Richard
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Takereasy
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06/08/09 08:49pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Installing New Carrier V A/C
Take a look at the pictures in this link. You will see the blower outlet from the top unit is off to one corner, but the hole in the ceiling assembly is centered.
This is not my install, but it does show the layouts....
Link:
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Takereasy
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06/04/09 01:19pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: TPMS FYI
Wow, mine has the external antenna and cord and is not removable like yours....
Richard
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Takereasy
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06/03/09 08:53pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Installing New Carrier V A/C
Thanks to all. I had gone ahead and pulled it the best I could and tightened it all down. It all works fine, but just didn't seem right. If they change their blower then it would be centered. Jr. Engineers I guess.
Richard
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Takereasy
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06/03/09 04:12pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: SAF-TTE TPMS New Dealer
I've never been able to turn mine off with those instructions either....
Richard
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Takereasy
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06/03/09 04:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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