Photomike, I'm not questioning the Manufactures, but the idiots like me that have put undue stress on the mounting components, thru being in a hurry or just not knowing enough, don't help things to stay upright.
One of the other RV.net'ers said he allows himself 2 hour to get ready. Our first load took 3 1/2 hours, the next we had a friend helping, it took the same time. Now, I put DW behind the wheel and we have hook up done in about 5 minutes, I just tell her left or right hand down on the steering wheel and slowly back on the brakes, then another 20 to load provisions and we are off. No other help wanted.
Mind you , I have also painted white lines down the centre of the bed, marked centre of the camper both front and underneath, and use the legs as a guide also.
If there is anything else to make it easier and safer then I will do it.
Firstly, I must thank KKELLER14K for the incentive to get off my butt, and do something about the unsteady legs. His leg brace gave me the starting point from which this was all developed. As mentioned in an earlier blog, we had some damage to the front LH corner leg that got me searching for answers and ideas.
Secondly, if you have more damage then you should look at AnEv942’s report on his mod/repair labelled “slide repair” which is very detailed.
Step one; get some paper, pencil and tape measure. I also made a cardboard template o the legs to dually fenders fully loaded, so I could make measurements at any time.
Measure the width between the leg mounts, mine was 94 ½”, for the 3”x1” tube steel, (minus the thickness of the end plates). The end plates are 5”x2”x ¼” mild steel and the holes were drilled to match the leg mounting points. The 4 bolts had to be removed and replaced with longer ones.
Then I picked up some ½” pipe (about 7/8” outside diameter), mine were cut approximately 19” for the 2 front braces and 22” for the 2 side braces. One end of each is squashed flat for about 1 ½” so you have a good area to drill thru nice and flat, remember to put the pipe seam where you will be drilling, because if it is where the pipe folds over 180 degrees then it will split there. The other end is cut at approximately 45 degree AT A LATER STAGE, to suit your frame. The 2 pieces that get welded to the angles are 1”x 2”x ¼” flat steel, rounded at each end to make them look nice.
Next, 2 pieces of 2 ½” x 7” x ¼” was bent to suit my legs, so that the braces will fold up when traveling. A good vice and big hammer and slowly pound away as close to the bend line as possible. When mounting to the leg MAKE SURE that the bolt is not too long or you will damage the leg tube!
The pivot bolts were high tensile 3/8” x 1” with nylock nuts. The end brace pins are simply s/s dyna bolts without the outer sheath. For the vertical ones I simply machined off the excess thread so that what was left smooth to make getting the pin thru the hole easier. Install the braces to the folded bracket that is bolted to the leg, then swing the front braces up to the cross brace and use a bit of “Bluetac, wall poster sticky stuff” to hold in place. CHECK that the camper and legs are level and plumb NOW. Also make sure you can remove the front cross brace s/s pin when loaded. Now you can drill up thru the angled brace to the cross brace for the retaining bolt hole.
Make sure that the front braces clear your fenders when unload/loading, I gave myself about 2” total, because we often unload/load on uneven ground.
I painted everything after a dry assemble was done, to make sure that everything worked and folded up properly. If you are painting during cold weather, then warm up the steel first to make sure the paint sticks, I had it all hung from coat hangers and old bolts stuck into the vice for holding things so that I could paint all over at once. I walked like that fellow form Notre Dame by the time I had finished.
Now when the legs are up and swung in, I swing them all the way so I have more mirror view when driving, also more clearance for the back passenger doors on the cabin, then I put a small bungy strap from the hardware store to make sure they did not rattle and to keep the leg from rattling down while driving, someone else already mentioned this…I thought better safe than sorry.
Another idea that 2 other RVnet’ers came up with was to run a length of Unistrut from the front to the back to support the underside and give better tie-downs a better anchor point. This was then bolted to the front cross bar to join them together. I used to remove the tie-downs when unloading, but now leave them hanging so that I can see them. The tie-downs connect to a ½” high tensile bolt going across the Unistrut.
Hint: If you can’t weld or bend yourself, then mark everything with permanent marker so the tradesman can line things up exactly for you. You could also print the pics of and show them what you are trying to do.
I hope that helps, Again thanks to all those who inspired me to get of my butt.
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Good to see someone else thinks the same way I do.
I had the Nylon spaces at first but they split after about 400 miles. So then I simply went to the Tractor shop and bought 4of 3" tall cone shaped bump stops. I sat down and carefully cut a flat top to make them 2" high. I simply slip a crowbar between the leaves to spread them enough for install and removal, they come with a stud moulded into the rubber which fits thru the hole easily. The ride is quieter and smoother. From the pic you can see that I have a 3" gap at the upper stop which usually is only 1/2" when unloaded...yes the truck has been shackle dropped 6". I usually take them out when not carrying any loads. I am about to try drilling the upper spring with a cobalt drill to do the same with it. I just use the airbags to do the extra lift when going in and out of driveways when I have the trailer on...I don't use a hitch extension, the drawbar is our landing.
I hope this helps.
Well everyone has their own ideas.
We personally have both SRW and DRW 3500 Chevy trucks. The parking is no challenge as the cabins are the same width, just the two humps in the rear view mirrors to watch. I find the dually easier to drive in most daily applications, both on and off the road. We do take both to the shops, just depends which has not been parked in by our children. Although my DW does prefer to drive the SRW. The rear tyres on the DRW last 2 years, the front and all 4 on the SRW last 1 year...no difference per year. Our SRW is cheaper to drive because it is a 5.7 the DRW is a 7.4, I find the dually easier to load as the legs are a very good centring gauge.
With the TC is on the dually wins hands down every time.
Just my opinion.
Hi everyone. I have over the last 10 months, spent $7500 in repairs to my tranny. Original fault is loss of reverse after engauging at 50mph - the shift linkage was bodgie and had a broken tranny mount. We hit a bad corrigated surface going around a slight corner.
I just spent 7 days with no OD or engine braking which was not fun seeing I was travelling thru the highest mountain area in Victria Australia. This is the fourth time it has happened in the last 10 months...I will not spend any more money on this box!!
My question is....."Where can I pick up a really good built tranny to suit my dually and will handle the tc as well". I need it sent to Texas for transport to Australia.
Hey, just a thought you might want to keep for when you have a spare couple of hours.
Isolate the tank and remove the pump.
On a clean bench, carefully remove the end plate of the pump, not the motor.
Have a look at the 3 little rubber flaps ( valves) and make sure they don't have a tiny amount of calcium or foreign material built up to the edges. This can cause the valves not to seal properly, flooding the system helps put a liquid seal around them but won't fix it.
You should be able to buy a "service kit" that is fairly easy to install.
Just remember if you are unsure, then take pictures as you go.
Yes, happy easter everyone.
Well I have the last couple of afternoons working on a small trailer to tow behind the TC when we go away. It used to be a catamaran trailer that hasn't seen any use in the last 12 years...so of it went. I cut 6 feet of the draw bar and removed all the outriggers, now we have a neat 5x4 that is 3ft high covered unit made with ACP sheets. It will be for the usual stuff like spare tyre for truck and trailer, BBQ, deck chairs, Generator, 2 folding electric bikes, jerry cans of fuel and extra lpg bottle. The draw bar is long enough not to need an extension and low enough to clear the back of the TC thru most crossings. It will also be a handy landing to step up to the TC.
Nothing else special becasue we are going away to the highlands of Victoria and back thru to Wagga for 2 family weddings in the last 10 days of April.
Stay safe and be well.
For my 93 dually we just purchased 4 large bump stop rubbers and machined them to 2" tall with a very sharp blade.I simply lift the rear to full travel and insert the stops thru the 3/8" hole at the end of each spring and tighten up the small retainer nut. When we get home just reverse the process and back to normal.
We have a 2002 911S . Our's are at the front RHS of the tub. One catch and one keylock. TC has to be up off the truck to access. Our main terminals are under the sink behind the happyjack controls. If you are really flexible, you could try and reach thru from the side door (below the fridge) into the bed and use a mirror to look at them to connect jumper leads.
Hope this helps. yell out if you need more.
It is amazing how quickly you can feel so sick.
Here is a link to how i fixed my little misshap.
Hope this can help
they look good, just put another tow on... I made my own to suit our TC
Just remember to work out how far your flairs stick out.
Hey we stayed at Circus circus KOA in April for two nights, nice place, clean ammenaties,god stole up and down the strip. Then went to the dam and then we stayed at Williams and took the train out to the canyon.
Just stop and think for a minute.....
I work in the Waste water industry. I make a lot of money from those wipes. Yes, they do breakdown in water, but fat content will slow this breakdown, as will a lot of other things. If you have a level sensor, float switch or a pump.....how much do they cost to replace...don't forget to add the labour charge as well.
Like Forest says "sh*t happens".
Yep, Itchey is right, We have a 2002 911S and the same thing. I borrowed a small engine camera and carefully lowered into the bowl to have a look around. Only one tank in there. The only thing that has played up on ours "so far" is the non return valve from the shower waste, ....it had a tooth pic caught so that when we were driving along it would have a slight backfush up thru the shower floor, and a slight odour on a hot night. DW said to fix...so I fix. Now everybody is happy. If you are still worried then grab a cheap mirror and 100 mile per hour tape it to a dowel and have a look for yourself....if you dare!